Journal of Textile Research

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Review of new dyeing technologies for reactive dyes and disperse dyes

WU Wei, JI Bolin, MAO Zhiping

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (05): 1-12. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230200802

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Significance Although dyeing is an important technique to give color to textiles, it also depletes resources and creates a lot of pollution. Reactive and disperse dyes are the most widely used dyes for coloring cellulose and polyester fibers, respectively. The output of two dyes accounts for more than 70% of the total output of dyes. However, reactive dyeing has problems with insufficient dye utilization, excessive use of inorganic salts, and high wastewater discharge. Meanwhile, the reduction cleaning step in the disperse dyeing process uses a lot of water and energy. The dispersants and unfixed dyes which are washed off in the reduction cleaning step will cause more difficulty in treating wastewater. Therefore, innovative dyeing techniques of two dyes that can solve these problems were reviewed in this paper.

Progress In order to reduce the usage amount of inorganic salts in reactive dyeing technology, researchers developed a series of methods to increase the affinity of dyes and fibers, such as cationic modifications and designing macromolecular dyes. In order to improve the utilization of dyes, the wet pickup of the fabric was controlled at a low level to reduce the hydrolysis of reactive dyes. The low wet pickup dyeing technologies are foam dyeing, vacuum-dewatering aided pad-steam dyeing, spray dyeing and ″moisture fixation″ dyeing. Organic solvent (ethanol, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, silicone oil) /water mixed solvent, liquid ammonia, and organic mixed solvent (dimethyl sulfoxide/dimethyl carbonate) were used as dyeing media to reduce the wastewater discharge. In order to solve the problem of low dyeing efficiency and high material consumption of rope dyeing, open-width dyeing technology for the cotton knitted fabric was developed. For disperse dyeing techniques, the first advancement is the development of alkali-resistant disperse dyes, which were created to solve the problem of water and energy usage during the reduction cleaning process. Owing to the same alkaline conditions, the pre-treatment and soap-washing procedures can also be combined with alkaline dyeing technology to increase production effectiveness. Secondly, the polymer dispersants with low molecular weights, no matter the synthesized copolymer anions or modified biomass polymers, were designed to make the dyes maintain nanoscales in water by grinding. Thus, the nano-scale liquid disperse dyes were prepared to improve the dyeing uptake and reduce loose color. With the use of microcapsule shells, the non-reduction clearing effect is achieved through the adhesion on the surface of the fabrics. Finally, non-aqueous media such as supercritical carbon dioxide fluid or organic solvents (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, liquid paraffin) are used for dyeing to save water consumption.

Conclusion and Prospect To sum up, the development of the two dyeing technologies focused on reducing the use of chemicals and wastewater emission, improving the utilization rate of dyes, and improving the efficiency of dyeing production. The use of reactive dyes with little or no salt has the problem of poor dyeing levelness or color fastness. For the wet pickup dyeing technology, the main direction of future research is to control the uniformity of dyeing and improve the color fixation rate to the highest level. The directions that need to be explored include the adaptability of open-width dyeing technology for knitted cotton textiles to thin fabric and the enhancement of process stability. Alkaline dyeing, nano liquid disperse dyeing and non-reduction clearing dyeing technologies have basically reached the industrial level, but it is still necessary to improve the categories of dyeable fabrics and improve the dyeing quality. It still needs to keep developing the theoretical framework and supporting equipment for less-water or non-aqueous dyeing technologies, whether they use reactive or disperse dyeing systems. In the future, reactive and disperse dyeing technologies continue to advance in a green and consumption-reduction direction, which will encourage the textile dyeing and printing industry to achieve the ″carbon dioxide emissions peak and carbon neutrality″ target as soon as feasible.

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Fabrication and oil absorbency of superhydrophobic and elastic silk fibroin fibrils aerogel

YANG Qiliang, YANG Haiwei, WANG Dengfeng, LI Changlong, ZHANG Lele, WANG Zongqian

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (09): 1-10. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220408901

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Objective Silk fibroin (SF) aerogels prepared by conventional regeneration-dissolution process generally suffer from poor mechanical elasticity, resulting in weak oil absorption performance of the hydrophobically modified SF aerogels. This research aims to prepare highly elastic SF-based aerogels with excellent oil absorption properties for practical applications by using SF micro-nanofibrils (SMNF) aerogels as carriers, following the hydrophobic modification.

Method The SMNF aerogels were fabricated by a freeze-induced assembly process using low-melting solvent liquid-phase exfoliated SMNF as precursors. Subsequently, the SMNF aerogel was hydrophobically modified by a methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) chemical vapor deposition strategy. The microstructure, element distribution and mechanical properties of MTMS modified SMNF (MS) aerogel were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, energy dispersive spectroscopy, infrared spectroscopy and universal material testing machine. Meanwhile, the oil absorbency of MS aerogel was systematically studied.

Results The urea/guanidine hydrochloride deep eutectic solvent liquid-phase exfoliated SMNF retained the micro-nanoscale fibril structures of natural silk fibers (Fig.1), facilitating the construction of highly elastic SF aerogels. The resulting MS aerogel was characterized by hierarchical cellular architectures (Fig. 2), which endowed it with low density (5.36 mg/cm³) and high porosity (99.63%). The MS aerogel exhibited high compressi-bility (15.72 kPa at a strain of 80%) and superior fatigue resilience (over 81% relative height retention after 100 cycles) (Fig. 4). The results of energy dispersive spectroscopy and infrared spectroscopy confirmed that the siloxane network structures were formed on the aerogel surface after MTMS modification (Fig. 3), endowing SMNF aerogel with superhydrophobicity (water contact angle of 150.9°) (Fig. 5). Consequently, MS aerogels demonstrated strong absorption capacity for various oil agents with the oil absorption capacity of 84.48-188.75 g/g (Fig. 7). More importantly, owing to the high elasticity and stable skeleton structure, MS aerogel displayed excellent repeatable oil absorption performance (Fig. 8, Fig. 9).

Conclusion Highly elastic and superhydrophobic MS aerogels were fabricated by urea/guanidine hydrochloride low eutectic solvent liquid phase exfoliation, freeze-induced assembly, and MTMS chemical vapor deposition modification. The assembled MS aerogels were characterized by hierarchical fibril networks and hierarchical cellular structures, which endowed MS aerogels with exceptional properties, including low density, high porosity and superelastic performance. Benefiting from the above features, the superelastic and superhydrophobic MS aerogel not only showed strong absorb ability to various oil agents, but also had excellent repeated oil absorption performance. This work provides a reliable approach for the fabrication of highly elastic and superhydrophobic SF aerogels and endows application prospects in oil absorption opportunities.

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Research progress of aramid nanofiber aerogels

LÜ Jing, LIU Zengwei, CHENG Qingqing, ZHANG Xuetong

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (06): 10-20. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230101602

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Significance Aerogels are synthetic solid nanomaterials formed by the replacement of liquid in a gel with gas. The continuous network structure renders aerogels with extraordinary properties, including ultralow density, super-high porosity, high specific surface area, low thermal conductivity, low optical refractive index and low dielectric constant. They have demonstrated tremendous potentials for various applications, such as thermal insulation, environmental protection and separation. However, in the development process of aerogels, there are still questions to be answered on development of new sol-gel transition principles and strategies, effectively control of macro morphology of aerogels, improvement of service performance, and expansion of the application field. As newly emerging aerogels, aramid aerogels utilized aramid nanofibers as building blocks have the potential to provide answers to the above-mentioned questions. In order to accelerate the development of aramid nanofiber aerogels from laboratory investigation to practical application and thus promote the development of the entire aerogel industry, the research status of aramid nanofiber aerogels are comprehensively reviewed in this paper.
Progress The building blocks of aramid nanofiber aerogels need to be obtained. So far, various methods have been developed to prepare aramid nanofibers, which can be classified into "top-down" and "bottom-up" methods. The rheological behavior of aramid nanofiber dispersion shows significant shear thinning behavior. In addition, the dynamic stress scanning test reveals that the aramid nanofiber dispersion shows elastic behavior in a certain stress range. These distinguishing features indicate that the aramid nanofiber dispersion can be processed through wet spinning, blade coating, 3D printing, and so on. Therefore, aramid aerogel fibers have been prepared via wet spinning or relevant spinning method, such as liquid crystal spinning. During the fabrication process, novel dynamic sol-gel transition principles was proposed. The as-prepared aramid aerogel fibers were shown to possess nano-porous network structure and inherit excellent physical and chemical properties of aramid materials, demonstrating ultra-low thermal conductivity and excellent mechanical properties. Besides, the aramid aerogel fibers were further functionalized to render them with unique functions, such as hydrophobicity, absorbability, and electric conductivity. These aramid aerogel fibers demonstrated wide potential applications in the textile field, which can be woven into thermal insulation fabrics and smart thermal regulation fabrics. In terms of aramid aerogel films, the fabrication process includes blade/spin coating, sol-gel transition, and special drying process. The typical aerogel structure was found to bring about aramid aerogel films with high specific surface area and low thermal conductivity. The post-processing and functionalization were shown to further improve their mechanical properties and electric conductivity. These aramid aerogel films have demonstrated great application prospects in separation and filtration, electromagnetic shielding, infrared stealth, thermal management, and so on. In addition, direct-ink-writing 3D printing and microgel-directed suspended 3D printing strategies were developed to fabricate 3D aramid aerogels. These printing technologies enable aramid aerogels with arbitrary shape realized. Thus, the mechanical or thermal insulation performances can be customized through simple structural design.
Conclusion and Prospect In view of the current urgent demand for high-performance aerogel materials, the research on aramid nanofiber aerogels will remain a research focus. By analyzing the research situation about the preparation, performance and application of aramid aerogel fibers, aramid aerogel films and 3D printed aramid aerogels, it can be confirmed that the development stage of aramid nanofiber aerogels is still in the initial exploration stage. On the one hand, the preparation technology of aramid nanofiber aerogel is not yet mature, and it needs to integrate deeply with traditional fiber, film or 3D printing technologies. There are many key points that need to be improved urgently, such as continuous solvent replacement, drying and other processes. The ultimate performances of aramid nanofiber aerogels have not been reached, and there is still room for improvement in mechanical properties. Therefore, it is necessary to further research on aramid nanofiber aerogels, optimize their preparation technologies, improve their performances, and reduce their production costs, so as to widen applications in thermal management, intelligent protection, separation, filtration and other fields.

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Current status and prospect of intelligent development in textile industry

ZHENG Xiaohu, LIU Zhenghao, CHEN Feng, ZHANG Jie, WANG Junliang

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (08): 205-216. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220305802

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Significance With the start of a new round of technological revolution and industrial advancement, China's textile industry has stepped into a new stage of high-quality development. This paper provides a comprehensive overview of the development and application of artificial intelligence technology in the textile industry and explores the tasks and goals of future intelligent development. Based on the latest global developments in digitalization, networking, and intelligence in the textile industry, it analysed the current technical challenges and summarised the key technologies urgently needed in the textile industry. Typical application cases and production models were introduced such as whole-process intelligent textile production lines, intelligent operation and maintenance of textile equipment, and intelligent textile testing. The core technological challenges facing the Chinese textile industry and the development directions of the industrial ecology were to be reviewed. Ideas on developing a new generation of textile-intelligent manufacturing systems and creating an intelligent textile ecology with the collaboration of the whole industrial chain were presented.

Progress At this stage, the Chinese textile industry intelligent manufacturing is in a critical period of digital, networked, and intelligent development (Fig. 1). The critical technologies related to the intelligence of the textile industry are developing rapidly, and big-data technology for the whole textile production process is being applied rapidly (Fig. 2). Digital-twin technology in the textile industry is applied to intelligent garment design and intelligent textile factories (Fig. 3 and Fig. 4). As automated equipment replaces manual labor in typical textile processes, robots in the textile industry have become an essential part of intelligent production. Machine vision technology based on deep learning plays a role in the intelligent control of textile equipment and intelligent inspection of textile quality scenarios (Fig. 5). Intelligent scheduling technology based on machine learning effectively improves the production efficiency of textile enterprises. Based on these technologies, typical examples of intelligent applications in the textile industry have emerged. A data-driven intelligent operation and maintenance system for high-speed winders (Fig. 6), enables data-based intelligent fault diagnosis and remaining life prediction of equipment. The "edge-cloud" collaborative fabric defect detection system enables the detection and identification of a wide range of fabric defects. Xinfengming Group realizes the intelligence of the whole production chain based on 5G and product identification resolution technology (Fig. 7). Wuhan Yudahua's 100000-spindle full-process intelligent spinning line solves the discontinuity problem between some of the ring spinning processes, with an automation rate of over 95% (Fig. 8).

Conclusion and Prospect China's textile industry has made a breakthrough in digitalizing equipment, networking, and workshop intelligence. Significant progress has been made in improving quality and efficiency and optimizing the industrial structure. However, a series of standards system for intelligent manufacturing in the textile industry has yet to be established. In the field of cotton spinning, for example, there are still breakpoints in the automated production of the whole process. The quality traceability of the whole process of product production needs to be strengthened. Data processing and other software are primarily selected from general software developed by information technology developers, which is challenging to meet the precise professional needs of spinning enterprises. The core equipment and industrial software in the field of textiles have not yet formed the technical support capacity, from the true meaning of "intelligent" still has a large gap. The intelligent textile ecology of the whole industrial chain needs to be established. Developing a new generation of intelligent textile manufacturing systems should be based on the study of intelligent textile process, intelligent textile equipment as the focus of development, and intelligent equipment collaboration as the core. At the same time, through the construction of a textile innovative factory demonstration production model, the development of critical technologies of the textile industry Internet, the construction of a blockchain-based networked collaborative rapid response service system, the creation of the whole industry chain collaborative textile intelligent ecology, improve the rapid response service capacity, to achieve the development of the textile industry multi-cluster synergy.

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Application of virtual garment transfer in garment customization

YE Qinwen, WANG Zhaohui, HUANG Rong, LIU Huanhuan, WAN Sibang

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (06): 183-190. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220408001

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Objective Design-preserving virtual garment transfer can transfer a garment from one body to another, which is significant for garment customization. However, most current research on virtual garment transfer only focuses on generating personalized 3-D garments rather than 2-D patterns and cannot be used for 3-D scanned human bodies. To address this issue, we propose a garment customization solution for 3-D scans based on design-preserving virtual garment transfer. Given a source garment worn on a source body, this research aims to obtain the target garments and patterns for a 3-D scan and show the final virtual fitting result of the target garment.
Method Firstly, the principle of virtual garment transfer of CLO 3-D and Marvelous Designer software is clarified in detail. Secondly, a method for generating personalized 3D garments and 2-D patterns for the 3-D scanned human bodies is proposed in combination with virtual garment transfer and the "Auto-convert-to-avatar" of CLO 3-D. Finally, the feasibility of this method in actual garment customization is verified by performing virtual garment transfer experiments with scanned human bodies.
Results In order to explore the difference in results between the two virtual garment transfer methods, two experiments were conducted and the results demonstrated that the method of using the default virtual avatar in CLO 3D or Marvelous Designer worked better than "Create fitting suit" when performing virtual garment transfer (Fig. 4). For the 3-D scanned human body, we proposed a personalized garment customization solution (Fig. 6). The virtual garment transfer for the 3-D scan was divided into three main steps. First, we used the CLO 3D default avatar to fit the scan and obtained the converted avatar based on the "Auto-convert-to-avatar " function of CLO 3D. Second, we obtained the transferred garment by transforming the source garment from the source body to the converted avatar. Finally, we fitted the transferred garment onto the scan and obtained the final virtual fitting effect. To verify the effectiveness of our proposed personalized garment customization solution, we scanned four young males with 3-D scanning and then obtained the corresponding converted avatars. For convenience, we denoted the scans as S_A, S_B, S_C, S_D and the converted avatars as C_A, C_B, C_C, C_D, respectively. According to our solution, we quickly obtained the transferred 3-D garment and corresponding 2-D patterns. The experimental results showed that the garments obtained by virtual garment transfer could meet the personalized requirements for different body shapes and sizes of the 3-D scanned human body (Fig. 10). In addition, the transferred patterns can satisfy the needs of actual garment production (Fig. 11).
Conclusion In this paper, we have proposed a personalized garment customization solution for a 3-D scanned human body based on design-preserving virtual garment transfer. For the 3-D scanned human body, our method was available for generating personalized 3-D garments and the corresponding 2-D patterns while also showing the final wearing effect of the transferred garment on the scan. The scheme's feasibility for actual garment customization was verified by conducting virtual garment transfer experiments with 3-D scans. The transferred 3-D garments can fit the scans well, and the transferred 2-D pattern can satisfy the needs of actual garment production. The method described in this paper was quick and effective for creating personalized 3-D garments and 2-D patterns. As a result, it can significantly improve the efficiency of customized garment development and facilitate garment customization in the apparel industry. In practical applications, creating a new style of 3-D garment is only necessary. Our proposed method allows personalized 3-D garments and corresponding 2-D patterns to be quickly obtained for 3-D scanned bodies of different sizes and shapes. In future work, how to optimize the existing personalized garment customization solutions is a topic worthy of in-depth study.

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Influencing factors for thermal insulating properties of cotton gauze quilts

ZHANG Luyang, SONG Haibo, MENG Jing, YIN Lanjun, LU Yehu

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (07): 79-85. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220606401

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Objective Studies on thermal insulating properties of quilts have been carried out aiming to improve the thermal comfort and sleep quality. Previous studies mainly focused on quilts with filling materials, and few research focused on non-filling quilts such as gauze quilt. In order to provide more understanding on comfortable sleeping microclimate, a systematic investigation on thermal insulating properties of several gauze quilts with different parameters was conducted.

Method 41 samples in total were provided, including 22 unwashed cotton gauze quilt fabric samples, 4 washed cotton gauze quilt fabric samples, 3 spunlaced cotton wadding samples, 6 cotton gauze quilt samples. The influences of air permeability, surface density and number of layers on heat resistance of cotton gauze quilts were analyzed by sweating hot plate tests and thermal manikin tests. The correlation between heat resistance of fabric and quilt was also established.

Results It was found that the heat resistance of both cotton gauze quilt samples and cotton spunlaced wadding samples have significant positive linear relationships with surface density. The heat resistance rose with the increase of surface density. The growth rate of the spunlaced cotton wadding quilts (0.006 1) was higher than that of cotton gauze quilts (0.001 7). Heat resistance of cotton gauze quilt samples decreased with the increasing of air permeability, exhibiting a low correlation, but the influence on thermal insulation was obvious when the air permeability was below 1 000 mm/s. The heat resistance of the spunlaced cotton wadding quilt showed a significant negative linear relationship with its air permeability. In addition, the air permeability and surface density presented an exponentially negative correlation. The change rate was constantly decreasing when surface density was more than 450 g/m². Generally, the air permeability of each cotton gauze quilt was above 500 mm/s, higher than that of the spunlaced cotton wadding quilt. The surface fitting results (thermal insulation as dependent variable, air permeability and surface density as independent variables) revealed that heat resistance and air permeability exhibited a low correlation. The surface density demonstrated a significant influence on heat resistance, and the heat resistance of cotton gauze quilt exhibited a positive linear relationship with the number of cotton gauze fabric layers. The air permeability of cotton gauze quilt showed power function relationship with the number of fabric layers. The heat resistance of cotton gauze quilt was increased after washing, with the average increase of about 20%. After once machine washing in 20 ℃ water, the thickness and surface density of cotton gauze quilt was increased by 26.6% and 13.6% in average, respectively, whereas the air permeability was decreases by 8.7% in average. A significant non-linear relationship exists between the heat resistance of fabric samples and quilt samples (p<0.05), which can be approximately expressed by an exponential function. In particular, they show approximate a linear relationship when the heat resistance of fabric was less than 1.8 clo.

Conclusion The heat resistance of the cotton gauze quilts has a significant positive linear relationship with the surface density, exhibiting a negative and low correlated relationship with the air permeability. Therefore, surface density is more appropriate for the prediction of heat resistance value in engineering application. Under the same surface density, spunlaced cotton wadding quilt provides higher thermal insulating properties, while cotton gauze quilt provides bigger air permeability. The superimposition of cotton gauze fabric layers can produce thicker air gaps, resulting in higher thermal insulating property of cotton gauze quilt. Once machine washing has a positive effect on thermal insulating property of cotton gauze quilt by virtue of the increase of thickness and surface density after washing. Moreover, heat resistance of fabric samples can be adopted to predict the heat resistance of quilt, showing a significant non-linear correlation. These research findings can provide evidence for the design of cotton gauze quilts and usage guideline to achieve thermal comfort during sleeping.

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Research progress in color construction of high-performance fibers and its products

XIA Liangjun, CAO Genyang, LIU Xin, XU Weilin

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (06): 1-9. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230200602

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Significance High-performance fibers are key materials for the development of national textile industry, which is related to the development of national economic and strategic security. For the purposes of aesthetic enhancement, functional flexibility, and feature identification, demands on color construction of high-performance fiber have become an important driving force for the development of the colorful society. The development of color construction technique ranges from the chemical coloration to structural coloration technology. Additionally, future high-performance fiber will be permeable for long-term multi-field development in the applications of advanced and sophisticated areas, which is indispensable part of social progress, and integrating color construction of high-performance fiber is an ideal way to realize highly flexible and adaptive. To clearly understand the development and applications of high-performance fibers, master the frontiers and development trends of dyeing methods, and break through the technical bottlenecks of the industry, this paper comprehensively reviewed the research progress in color construction of high-performance fibers and its products.
Progress The technical innovation and research status in color construction of the representative aramid fiber, carbon fiber, polyimide fiber, and ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene was focused. According to the structural characteristics, physical, and chemical properties of high-performance fibers, the aspects of fiber raw materials, molding processing, surface modification, and dyeing process are innovated, from which to implement color construction. Based on the development of chemical coloration methods including carrier dyeing, non-aqueous media solvents dyeing, dope dyeing, and structural coloration technology, maintaining the inherent high-performance characteristics is the building blocks of color construction process. The design of coloring method matching to the materials and structure effectively improves the dyeing property and dyeing fastness of high-performance fiber. However, significant limitation of promising coloring methods, which meets the social development concept, was demonstrated in industrial application.
For the aramid fiber, based on the pre-regulation of the molecular structure, the low temperature carrier dyeing has been carried out for bright color and high color fastness. However, the removal of residual carrier, the safe reuse, and reduction of the influence on the mechanical properties should be further investigated. Due to the high crystallinity, high chemical inertness, and strong light absorption characteristics of carbon fiber, the structural color methods have been extensively used to construct colored carbon fibers, while the influence of interface properties to color fastness is an urgent problem to be solved. The golden color of the polyimide fiber will also affect the further color construction. Presently, the color construction methods of polyimide fiber mainly include carrier dyeing and surface modification dyeing. Carrier dyeing of ketone carriers is effective to the color construction, which can significantly improve the color fastness of polyimide fibers. According to the physical and chemical structural properties of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fiber, the modification of dyes is a preponderant method for achieving color diversity.
Conclusion and Prospect High performance fiber refers to the chemical fiber with special physical and chemical structure, performance, and special function. As typical representative of high-performance fiber, carbon fiber, aramid fiber, polyimide fiber and ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fiber are the four most widely used in aerospace, national defense science and technology, military engineering, construction industry, transportation, medical protection, civil industry, and electronic communications. However, the unicity of color limits its application to further expansion. Aiming at the problem of color construction, the methods including carrier dyeing, non-aqueous solvent dyeing, fiber surface modification dyeing, stock solution coloring, as well as physical structure color construction have been improved.
Based on the current color construction technology, the attention of development tendency in the future will be attracted on promoting energy-saving, low-carbon, green and environmental protection dyeing, strengthening clean, and safe production. Meanwhile, theoretical fundamental research on the color construction of high-performance fibers is necessary to further investigate. Combining the macromolecular chain, chemical structure, molding process, surface physical, and chemical properties to achieve theoretical breakthrough in the color construction, theoretical innovation, and theoretical guidance for the preparation of colored high-performance fibers will be promoted.
Additionally, to improve the dyeing depth and color fastness of fibers and reduce the structural damage in the color construction process of high-performance fibers, further attention should be paid to maintain the excellent structural stability. Therefore, in the development of color construction, balance the relationship between the color construction technology and high-performance fiber properties will promote the high-quality development and application expansion of high-performance fiber and its products. This paper summarized in the main the basic principles and research progress of the above-mentioned high-performance fibers, and also pointed out the main challenge and research direction of this research direction.

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Research progress in preparation and application of conductive yarn materials

LI Long, ZHANG Xian, WU Lei

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (07): 214-221. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211105002

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Significance The good conductivity of the material is the basis of manufacturing smart wearable devices. Because textile material is light, soft and good in air permeability and shape adaptability, textile-based flexible smart wearable devices have been attracting extensive attention from researchers. In recent years, the researchers have been using various techniques to integrate conductive materials with textile materials for manufacturing textile flexible intelligent wearable device for real-time monitoring of human health, friction power generation, personal thermal management, energy storage and so on. Conductive yarn is one of textile intelligent wearable materials, in order to further study the low-resistance and multi-performance conductive yarn for smart wearable devices, textile yarns was taken as the object. The methods of preparing conductive yarn materials were reviewed in relation to spinning technology, coating, coating combined with spinning technology and electrostatic spinning technology and application of the conductive yarns in electromagnetic protection, sensing device, energy storage device, transmission and power supply, artificial muscle, electric heating and thermal management device in recent years.

Progress The advantages and disadvantages of conductive preparation methods are analyzed. Both conventional textile fibers and conductive fibers are spun into yarns by blending or wrapping using spinning technology, which can produce conductive yarns in batches. Besides, the yarn has excellent textile characteristics. However the conductive yarn is seldom used in resistance strain sensing. It is difficult for the mass production of conductive yarn prepared by coating technology, and the yarn has poor performance stability and poor weaving property, the preparation process is complicated and coating waste liquid may cause environmental pollution. Compared with the spinning technology, the method of preparing conductive yarn by coating is flexible, and the yarn has wide application. The auxiliary technology of electrostatic spinning nanofibers plays an important role in developing conductive yarns, and the conductive yarn with sheath-core structure prepared by electrostatic spinning technology overcomes some problems existing in conventional conductive coating. However, it is difficult to mass-produce conductive yarn by this method. The conductive yarn prepared by coating combined with spinning technology has good textile characteristics, but the conductive coating waste liquid of textile fiber materials may also cause environmental pollution.

Conclusion and Prospect The future research and development trends of conductive yarn materials are proposed by combining the performance stability and the environmental safety of conductive yarn in its life cycle. It is proposed that the stability and service life of sensing performance under large strain needs to be further improved for the conductive yarn prepared used for resistance strain sensor. The conductive yarn needs additional flame retardant function,elasticity function and flexibility for their use in electric heating products so as to improve the use safety and wearing comfort. It is necessary to further study the change law of yarn conductivity under special environmental conditions (such as wet environment, high temperature environment, low temperature environment), so as to develop textile-based flexible smart wearable devices to be used in different temperature and humidity environments. It is still a research focus to develop conductive yarn materials with textile characteristics and lower linear resistance and good linear resistance uniformity. In order to popularize the practical application of textile flexible intelligent wearable devices, a development goal is that the whole life cycle of manufacturing, using and discarding of the conductive yarn has no negative impact on human health and environment. It is necessary to further optimize the structure of conductive yarn and innovate the integration technology of conductive materials and textile fiber materials, and improve the durability, sensibility, weaving property, biodegradability and mass production capacity of the conductive yarn.

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Research on supercritical CO₂ waterless dyeing property of polyester knitted shoe materials

SONG Jie, CAI Tao, ZHENG Fuer, ZHENG Huanda, ZHENG Laijiu

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (05): 46-53. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221106501

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Objective Knitted sports shoe materials have the advantages of structural integration, light weight, comfort and low cost, which attractes wide attention from the industry and consumers in recent years. However, with the increasingly prominent environmental pollution caused by conventional aqueous dyeing, how to achieve the eco-friendly dyeing of sports shoe materials has become the key development direction.

Method In order to solve the problems of serious dyeing pollution and high energy consumption in the conventional dyeing, waterless dyeing of polyester knitted shoe materials was conducted with Disperse Yellow 54 using supercritical CO₂ as medium. Influences of dyeing temperature, pressure, time and CO₂ flow on the K/S values and levelling property were analyzed. The mechanical properties of polyester knitted shoe materials before and after dyeing were investigated, including bending, shrinkage, friction, tensile and durable properties.

Results The results showed that supercritical CO₂ displayed obvious influence on the dyeing properties of polyester knitted shoe materials. In supercritical CO₂ dyeing system, the K/S values of the dyed polyester knitted shoe materials increased significantly with the rising of dyeing pressure, temperature and time. This is mainly because the increasing CO₂ temperature and pressure present more and more plasticizing effect on polyester fiber. The dissolved dye molecules were more likely to approach the fiber interface, and would complete the adsorption through self-diffusion. Compared with aqueous dyeing, the dyeing process of polyester knitted shoe materials was able to completed with in 60 min in supercritical CO₂ and the change of CO₂ flow rate showed no significant influence on the K/S values. The deviation values of K/S data fluctuated around 0.1 at pressure ranging from 18 MPa to 26 MPa, temperature ranging from 105 ℃ to 125 ℃, time ranging from 20 min to 100 min as well as a CO₂ flow from 380 kg/h to 460 kg/h, which represents good levelness. After supercritical CO₂ dyeing, color fastness to rubbing and soaping of polyester shoe materials reached level 4 or above(Tab.1). The influence of CO₂ temperature and pressure on the mechanical properties of shoe materials was different, and temperature had more significant influence on mechanical properties than pressure. When the CO₂ temperature rose from 105 ℃ to 125 ℃, the bending rigidity increased from 9.90 mN·cm to 15.30 mN·cm(Fig.8), the maximum bending strength increased from 75.29 cN to 126.30 cN(Fig.8), the longitudinal shrinkage rate increased from 6.72% to 11.21%(Fig.9), the transverse shrinkage rate increased from 3.80% to 6.58%(Fig.9), the breaking strength increased from 1 048.23 N to 1 281.17 N(Fig.11), the elongation at break decreased from 42.05% to 36.6%(Fig.11), and the bursting strength increased from 2 235 N to 2 390 N(Fig.13). However, the test results revealed that the temperature and pressure played no remarkable influence on the tribological properties(Tab.2), and the static friction coefficient and dynamic friction coefficient of the polyester samples were almost constant.

Conclusion By using supercritical CO₂ instead of water as the medium, waterless dyeing of polyester knitted shoe materials can be achieved, and the deviation of K/S values is stable at 0.1±0.05. The optimal dyeing procedure was determined by balancing the dyeing effect and resource consumption. The dyed polyester knitted shoe materials with superior properties after supercritical CO₂ dyeing indicate a favorable foreground. The above investigation provides an impurtant support for the clean industrial production of supercritical CO₂ dyeing.

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Continuous preparation of large-area structurally colored fabric with bionic photonic crystals

WANG Xiaohui, LI Xinyang, LI Yichen, HU Min'gan, LIU Guojin, ZHOU Lan, SHAO Jianzhong

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (05): 21-28. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220801401

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Objective Photonic crystals (PCs) are composed of different dielectric constant materials in a periodic arrangement possessing a photonic band gap (PBG) that blocks the propagation of electromagnetic waves with certain wavelengths. If the wavelength of the blocked electromagnetic waves is in the visible light range, it forms a structural color. At present, it is difficult to fabricate continuously PCs coated fabrics with structural color in a large area, and it is difficult to balance the structural stability and optical properties of PCs, limiting the practice application of PCs in textile coloring field.

Method A PCs-coated fabric was designed, achieving the rapid and continuous preparation of PCs with high structural stability and high color saturation on the fabric surface. Structural colored fabric was composed of a fabric substrate, a polymer layer and a PC layer. Liquid photonic crystal (LPC) with precrystallized structure was rapidly prepared by the rotary evaporation method, which was used as the working liquid for assembly. The surface of the fabric was coated with special polymer-L slurry with a scraper, and dried at 80 ℃ for 3 min and 120 ℃ for 1 min to form a flat polymer-L film on the surface of the fabric. The LPC was coated on the surface of the fabric pretreated by polymer-L with 20 μm filament rods, and then assembled at 60 ℃ for 5 min to obtain the PCs-coated fabric. Based on the assembly process and method of PCs, a pilot equipment for continuous fabrication of structural colored fabric is designed accordingly.

Results LPCs were prepared by means of physical distillation and concentration to increase the volume fraction of nanospheres in colloidal system. By introducing dispersant-3B into the polystyrene (PS) nanospheres system, the problem of microspheres condensation during the process of spin evaporation was effectively solved. With the increase of dispersant-3B, the structural color brightness of LPC increased. When the dosage of dispersant was 1.5%, the structure color of the dispersion solution was not obvious (Fig.3). In addition, the results showed that the prepared LPC with excellent dynamic recovery exhibited bright structural color, and its optical properties were regulated by the volume fraction and particle size of the nanospheres (Fig.4). When subjected to external disturbance, the LPC was disassembled, and the structural color disappeared. After the external force was released, the LPC with precrystallized structure was rapidly reconstructed and restored, and the structural color was reproduced (completed within 10 s) (Fig.5). LPC was applied to the fabric surface with polymer coating by shear induction of external force, and the LPC was reconstructed and colored quickly (within 1 min) (Fig.8). After proper heating post-treatment (60 ℃, 5 min), as the water in the LPC continued to evaporate, the lattice spacing of the PC was decreased, but the structure color blue-shifts and the brightness of LPC showed significant increased. With the complete evaporation of water, the solid PC was formed. The interfacial molecules of the polymer layer migrate to the interior of PC, stabilizing the structure of color layer of the PC on fabric surface (Fig.9 and Fig.10). Using LPC as the assembly intermediate and self-developed pilot equipment, the rapid and continuous preparation of structurally colored fabrics was achieved (Fig.12).

Conclusion The proposed preparation method of the PC-coated fabric demonstrated the advantages of simple operation and obvious effect. LPC with pre-crystallized structure and excellent dynamic recovery can be prepared rapidly and macroscopically by spinning evaporation. The special dispersant-3B introduced in the process of spin evaporation plays a synergistic role with SDS anionic surfactant in the system, significantly improves the steric hindrance and charge effect between the nanospheres, illustrating the resistance to the condensation of the microspheres. By pretreating the surface of textile substrate with special polymer, the PC layer is stabilized by utilizing the relaxation, activation, diffusion and recuring properties of interfacial polymer molecule, and the consistency of high structure stability and high color saturation of PCs-coated fabric can be achieved. Using LPC as the assembly working liquid, combined with the external force induced self-assembly method and the corresponding continuous processing equipment, the rapid large-scale continuous preparation of the PC-coated fabric with a fascinating iridescent effect can be achieved.

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Fabrication and properties of metallocene polyethylene spunbond filament based on Polyflow simulation

LIU Ya, ZHAO Chen, ZHUANG Xupin, ZHAO Yixia, CHENG Bowen

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (12): 1-9. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220705301

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Objective Spunbond products are widely used in the fields of sanitary materials, packaging, and agriculture. Currently, spunbond products on the market are mainly made from polypropylene (PP) and polyester (PET). Although these materials have high strength, their softness is not good enough to meet the requirements of high softness applications. The metallocene polyethylene (mPE) is used to form membrane for its excellent softness. Because of its poor spinnability, mPE is rarely used in spunbond technology. As such, it is important to study the spinning properties of mPE to modify the performance of traditional spunbond products.
Method The thermal and rheological properties of mPE were analyzed first. According to data available, the flow velocity distribution and extrusion state of mPE melt were simulated by Polyflow numerical simulation method during the preparation of mPE spunbond filament. The velocity distribution and extrusion expansion trend of mPE melt were analyzed under different extrusion temperature. According to the simulation results, the parameters of spinning experiment were guided, and the spunbond filaments of mPE with different mechanical drafting multiples were achieved. In order to characterize the mechanical properties of mPE fiber, numbers of common fibers were used for comparison.
Results The thermos-gravimetric analysis result showed that the thermal decomposition temperature of mPE was 405 ℃ (Fig. 1 (a)), and the differential scanning calorimetry result showed the melting range of mPE was 93.9-130.1 ℃ (Fig. 1(b)). According to the thermal properties, the simulation temperature of rheological test was preliminarily set in the range of 220-280 ℃. The melt flow velocity of mPE increased with the increase of melting temperature (Fig. 5) but decreased rapidly after extruding from the spinneret orifice (Fig. 6) in the simulation experiments. The extrusion swell phenomenon of mPE was quite evident after melt extrusion, the lower the extrusion temperature was, the higher the die swell ratio was, and the maximum was 1.52 at the temperature of 230 ℃. The results of Polyflow simulation were used to guide and optimize the parameters of the spunbond process. Finally, the mPE spunbond filaments with different mechanical drafting multiples were successfully prepared at the spinning temperature of 240 ℃. The performance of series mPE filaments were characterized. The results showed that the diameter of mPE filament decreased with the increase of drafting multiple, and the minimum diameter of mPE filament was 64.2 μm with the drafting multiple of 6 times, the variation reached 61.5% compared with the drafting multiple of 1 time (Fig. 8). Because of the rapid cooling of the trickle flow, the amorphous part disentangled and carried out preferred orientation along with mechanical drafting, more molecular chains in the polymer participated in crystallization, the crystallinity of mPE filament increased with the increase of drawing multiple (Fig. 9). The maximum of the crystallinity was 50.1% with the drafting multiple of 6 times. As the trickle flow further oriented and crystallized with the increase of the drafting multiple, the breaking strength of mPE filament increased and the fracture elongation decreased with the increase of the drawing multiple (Fig. 10). Compared with the common fibers appeared on the market, the mPE filament drawn to 6 times exhibited the best mechanical performance, the breaking strength was 3.44 cN/dtex, and the fracture elongation was 85.69%.
Conclusion Polyflow simulation is used to simulate the flow velocity distribution and extrusion state of the mPE melt in the spunbond process. It proves that the Polyflow simulation results can be used to guide and optimize the process parameters for mPE spinning experiment. The performance test of mPE spunbond filament proves the reliability of the simulation method and the feasibility of mPE application in spunbond technology. The testing results also reveal that mPE filament has excellent mechanical properties, which can be used to form the bi-component spunbond with PP, PET and other raw materials, so as to modify the performance of traditional mono-component spunbond material with softer feeling, which can meet the requirements of high softness for certain applications.

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Research progress in zinc and copper containing wound dressings

QIN Yimin

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (05): 213-219. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211101502

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Significance In order to develop the applications of functional zinc and copper containing fibers and wound dressings in the management of chronic wounds, this paper introduced the bioactivities of zinc and copper ions and their roles in the wound healing process, and summarized the types and production methods of zinc and copper containing wound dressings in the domestic and international market, in particular zinc and copper containing alginate fibers, chitosan fibers, and the various types of zinc and copper containing wound dressings and their ion releasing properties obtained by electrospinning, polymeric composites, nano technologies and other advanced processing methods. Both zinc and copper ions possess antimicrobial efficacy and are known to be able to promote wound healing. The incorporation of these two metal ions by the techniques reviewed in this paper can help manufacturers and medical practitioners in the wound management industry to fully utilize the novel health benefitting properties of zinc and copper ions.

Progress Both zinc and copper ions have been used in the wound management industry for a long time by many forms of applications. Recent progresses are mainly focused in the sustainable release of zinc and copper ions by combining these two ions with alginate, chitosan and other novel substrate materials, and also by the use of nanoparticles of zinc oxide and copper oxide. The incorporation of zinc ions into alginate fibers and the subsequent release of zinc ions when in contact with aqueous solutions containing different levels of protein were summarized. The composition and properties of many types of zinc containing wound dressings reported in the documents were summarized. Regarding copper containing wound dressings, important progress has been made by incorporating copper oxide into fibers by blending and the subsequent extrusion to form copper containing fibers. In addition, copper ions can be absorbed into various types of alginate fibers that can be released when these fibers are in contact with aqueous solutions similar to wound exudate. Many other methods have been used in the documents to load and release copper ions from the base materials of wound dressings. The combination of zinc and copper ions with wound dressings have demonstrated important clinical benefits by accelerating the healing of burns and chronic wounds. Zinc and copper containing fibers and wound dressings possess antimicrobial properties similar to silver containing fibers and wound dressings.

Conclusion and Prospect Zinc and copper ions are minor metal ions present in the human body and are closely involved in the function of many enzymes during the wound healing process. The loss of zinc ions are well known for the delayed healing of burn wounds. Copper ions are also shown to be able to promote the healing of chronic wounds such as leg ulcers and pressure sores. The overall results of this review showed that zinc and copper ions have excellent antimicrobial properties and can promote wound healing. Experimental results have confirmed that zinc and copper containing wound dressings have strong antibactenal effect against the various types of bacteria commonly present in wounds, and these dressings are highly useful in the management of leg ulcer, pressure sore, diabetic foot ulcer, burn and other types of wounds. Looking into the future, much research and development work is still needed to clarify the wound healing mechanism of these two metal ions. In addition, clinical research and formal clinical trials are also required to validate the clinical efficacy of zinc and copper containing wound dressings before these products can be commercialized. Regulatory approval procedures are also needed through the collaborative efforts of researchers, manufacturers, regulatory bodies and medical practioners around the world.

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Research on modern cheongsam fast recommendation system based on evolutionary computation

JIN Man, ZHANG Lijie

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (08): 174-180. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220607001

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Objective In personal customization of cheongsam, the existing clothing recommendation system has a single type of recommended style and the clothing style is not clearly defined, resulting in a long-time recommendation process. As such, the cheongsam matching recommendation system is difficult to meet the needs of users.

Method Four typical modern cheongsam styles were selected for component classification and coding, and a database of modern cheongsam style design components was constructed. A modern cheongsam style recommendation system was constructed by using the interactive evolutionary computation method. Finally, modern cheongsam styles were displayed in the interactive interface of the modern cheongsam style recommendation system, and the main cheongsam component styles including the traditional Chinese style and sexy style were considered in the modern cheongsam style recommendation system, and the query times and query accuracy of the interactive evolutionary algorithm were verified.

Results Four typical modern cheongsam styles, i.e. the traditional Chinese style, sexy style, sweet style and simple style, were selected for analysis, and a database of modern cheongsam style design components were constructed. The part library of modern cheongsam was mainly composed of style parts and decorative parts. The style part library was divided into profile, collar, sleeve, placket and slit sub-part library, and the decorative part library included fabric, color, pattern and craft sub-part library. Modern cheongsam components and styles were encoded to facilitate subsequent interactive recommendations. Interactive evolutionary computing was used to build a modern cheongsam style recommendation system, involving user evaluation and population evolution. Users were able to score the style design scheme of modern cheongsam in the interactive evolutionary computing system. The system involved individuals through the initial setting, so as to achieve the crossover and mutation operation of interactive evolution. Through evolution, a new population was generated for users to select and evaluate, and finally the evolution operation was completed, so that the system could produce the optimal modern cheongsam design scheme to meet the needs of users. The system was verified by the recommendation of traditional Chinese style and sexy style cheongsam. The verification results indicated high accuracy and high efficiency of proposed method.

Conclusion The research uses the interactive evolutionary algorithm to build a modern cheongsam style recommendation system, and the system is mainly based on the modern cheongsam style components classification, scientific analysis. The modern cheongsam components are encoded, which is conducive to the recommendation system to efficiently pass information to users. The modern cheongsam recommendation system uses the interactive evolutionary calculation method to be superior to the sequential query in the selection of intensive reading and selection time. It can recommend the modern cheongsam style to the user more accurately and quickly, and can effectively improve the user's satisfaction with purchasing modern cheongsam. The modern cheongsam recommendation system can quickly grasp the user's preference for modern cheongsam style, greatly reduce the time for users to select cheongsam, make users more efficient and convenient to find personalized and customized modern cheongsam, and have innovative significance for modern cheongsam interactive style recommendation. In the future, the modern cheongsam recommendation system can also establish a variety of style library, to bring users personalized custom style of modern cheongsam recommendation system for the field of interactive clothing to provide reference and reference.

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Study on disperse dye staining on polyester/cotton blended fabrics in non-aqueous medium dyeing system

YI Jingyuan, PEI Liujun, ZHU He, ZHANG Hongjuan, WANG Jiping

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (05): 29-37. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221005001

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Objective Fabrics made from blended fibers demonstrate their advantages and enrich textiles diversification, of which polyester/cotton blended fabrics are most widely used in the textile and fashion industry. In order to save energy and reduce emission, non-aqueous media dyeing technology has been applied to the dyeing of polyester/cotton blended fabrics, using non-aqueous media, such as decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5), paraffin liquid, cooking oil and so on. Nevertheless, the phenomenon of staining persists during the dyeing process of polyester/cotton blended fabrics, resulting in decreased production efficiency and heightened pollution. This paper aims to investigate the mechanism behind the staining of cotton components in polyester/cotton blended fabric by disperse dyes in non-aqueous dyeing systems, with the objective of mitigating the staining of dyes during the dyeing process.

Method Based on the determination of azo dyes which have high uptake rate and suitable for polyester dyeing in non-aqueous media, and anthraquinone and heterocyclic dyes commonly used in conventional water bath, this research focused the dyeing and staining of disperse dye for polyester/cotton blended fabric in non-aqueous medium dyeing system. The influence of disperse dye structure, dyeing temperature, accelerant, dyeing time and dispersant NNO on the disperse dye staining, and dyeing effect of polyester/cotton blended fabric in non-aqueous medium dyeing system were investigated. Owing to the structure of polyester/cotton blends, it was difficult to isolate cotton staining for independent study. Therefore, conducting experimental research using 1.3 g of polyester fabric and 0.7 g of cotton fabric to simulate 2 g of polyester/cotton(65/35) blended fabric was necessary to gain a better understanding of the degree of cotton staining, and to demonstrate it more intuitively. One-bath-two-steps method was used for dyeing. In order to investigate the influence of dyeing conditions on dyeing performance, C.I Disperse Red 177 was chosen as disperse dye in the subsequent experiments. The uptake rate and staining rate of disperse dyes were calculated by measuring the amount of dye in the dyeing residue and the stripping solution. The distribution of disperse dye on polyester/cotton fabric was characterized by the relative staining rate of disperse dye.

Results The uptake rate of anthraquinone disperse dyes on polyester in non-aqueous medium dyeing system was only 12.0%, which was too low for dyeing polyester/cotton blends ( Fig.2 and Fig.3). The uptake rate of azo and heterocyclic disperse dyes on polyester components was above 80%. The complexity of disperse dye structure, the number of molecular substituents, molecular planarity, and relative molecular weight showed great influence on the uptake and staining of disperse dye. C.I. Disperse Red 177 was chosen as a representative azo disperse dye, and the results of the uptake of dye and the color depth of the dyed fabric indicated that the Disperse Red 177 had a higher uptake rate and it was more efficient using in non-aqueous medium. The influence of temperature on dyeing performance of polyester/cotton blended fabrics was investigated in non-aqueous medium with different contents of accelerant X (Fig.4). No matter what content of accelerant, raising the dyeing temperature was found to improve obviously the dyeing performance of disperse dyes on polyester/cotton blended fabric. The accelerant affected the dyeing/staining of polyester and cotton simultaneously (Fig.5) because the swelling degree of polyester and cotton fiber were improved at the same time when a certain amount of dye accelerant was employed during dyeing, and because the resistance of disperse dyes to diffusion into inside of fiber was decreased. It revealed from the research that the swelling degree of polyester fiber was less than that of cotton fiber, and the relative staining rate of disperse dyes was increased with the increasing content of dye accelerant. Polyester/cotton blended fabric dyeing was carried out for different dyeing time periods to investigate the relationship between the dyeing time and the dyeing performance (Fig.6), suggesting that dyeing time had little influence on the staining of of disperse dye but it would increase the uptake of disperse dyes. The addition of dispersant NNO in the dyeing process would not improve the dyeing performance of disperse dyes (Tab.2), but it had an influence on the staining rate of disperse dyes.

Conclusion Based on the uptake/staining rate and the relative staining rate of disperse dyes, azo dyes are more suitable than anthraquinone and heterocyclic disperse dyes for dyeing polyester/cotton blended fabric in non-aqueous media dyeing system. Polyester/cotton blended fabric dyed with Disperse Red 177 was more effective and efficient in non-aqueous medium dyeing system. The optimum dyeing conditions for disperse dyes were found, which were 140 ℃ of dyeing temperature, 10% (o.w.f) of dyeing accelerant, and 60 min of dyeing time period. If the dye accelerant and dispersant NNO were used in the dyeing bath at the same time, the disperse dyes were easy to aggregate, and the staining of dye on the surface of the dyed fabric becomes seriously, resulting the level dyeing property was poor, indicating that the accelerant and dispersant NNO should not used in a same non-aqueous media dyeing system.

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Preparation and properties of polyphenylene sulfide composite fiber for clothing

LIAN Dandan, WANG Lei, YANG Yaru, YIN Lixin, GE Chao, LU Jianjun

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (08): 1-8. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220308201

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Objective Special protective clothing are used against high temperature, acid and alkali corrosion, fire and other special environments, and high-performance fibers are essential for special protective clothing. Polyphenylene sulfide (PPS) fiber is a high-performance fiber with excellent mechanical properties, chemical resistance, self-flame retardancy and insulation and other outstanding properties, and it is a suitable raw material for special protective clothing. However, the poor moisture absorption, dyeing performance and light resistance of PPS fiber, limit the applications in apparel.

Method PPS fibers were modified with sodium polyacrylate (PAAS) and nano-TiO₂ to obtain PPS/PAAS/TiO₂ composite fibers with better hygroscopic property, dyeing performance and UV resistance. The PPS/PAAS/TiO₂ composite masterbatches were prepared by melt blending the vacuum-dried PPS with PAAS and nano-TiO₂ using a twin-screw extruder before these composite masterbatches were vacuum dried at 130 ℃ for 13 h. The composite fibers were prepared by a one-step spinning and drawing process using melt spinning. The spinning speed was 800 m/min, the pump supply was 22 g/min, and two-zone drafting was used, with the temperature of each drafting hot plate setting at 88, 102 and 108 ℃, and the drafting multiplier was 3.2. The mechanical properties, moisture absorption properties, dyeing rate, color fastness, and ultraviolet(UV) resistance of the prepared fibers were characterized.

Results PAAS and nano-TiO₂ were able to disperse uniformly in the polyphenylene sulfide (PPS) fiber matrix and form a good cross-compatibility (Fig.2), but when the mass fraction of PAAS exceeded 3%, agglomeration appeared and the poor dispersion led to poor spinnability of PPS composite fibers (Tab. 1). The use of Nano-TiO₂ improved the crystallinity of PPS fibers, while PAAS made the glass transition temperature and crystallinity of composite fibers decrease (Fig. 3 and Tab. 2). Increasing the internal free volume and amorphous zone of fibers resulted in a slight decrease in the breaking strength of PPS fibers compared with pure PPS fibers, but the elongation at break increases (Fig. 4). When the mass fraction of PAAS was 2%, the breaking strength of PPS/PAAS/TiO₂ composite fiber reached 3.06 cN/dtex and the elongation at break 30.4%, indicating the mechanical properties meeting the requirements of fabrics for apparel. The moisture absorption performance and dyeing performance of the PPS/PAAS/TiO₂ composite fiber was improved, the water contact angle decreased with the increase of PAAS content from 73.7° for the pure PPS fiber to 51.2° for the PPS-5 composite fiber (Fig. 5). The standard moisture regain rate increased with the increase of PAAS content from 0.22% for the pure PPS fiber to 3.9% for the PPS-5 composite fiber (Fig. 6). Under the same dyeing conditions, the dyeing rate of PPS-4 composite fiber (90.9%) was twice as high as that of the pure PPS fiber (44.8%) (Fig. 7). The color fastness of PPS/PAAS/TiO₂ composite fiber all reached levels 5 and 5 for soaping resistance (Tab. 3), and 6 and 7 for light fastness. The resistance of PPS composite fibers to light aging was significantly improved by addition of nano-TiO₂, and the strength remained at more than 85% after 120 h, although there was also strength loss with time (Fig. 8).

Conclusion The hygroscopic property, dyeing performance and UV resistant of PPS/PAAS/TiO₂ composite fibers are all enhanced to a certain extent, partly because of the functional groups of PAAS and nano-TiO₂, and partly because of the formation of a good spatial cross-linked network structure with the PPS matrix (Fig. 9). PAAS itself has a long molecular chain entanglement cross-linked structure. There are many reactive —COONa, —COOH groups inside the network, which have super hygroscopic ability. It is proved that nano TiO₂ plays a role in preventing UV aging by absorbing and reflecting ultraviolet light and the scattering and shielding ultraviolet light. Water molecules and dyestuffs that penetrate and diffuse into the interior of PPS fibers produce certain hydrogen bonding with the functional groups, resulting in improved moisture regain and color fastness of the fibers. On the basis of maintaining the original properties of PPS fibers, improved moisture absorption, dyeing and UV resistant properties make it a prospective candidate fibre for apparel applications. For further development, it is necessary to focus on the deterioration of the spinnability and mechanical properties of PPS fibers that occur after the PAAS content is increased.

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Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (09): 251-251.

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Online recognition system for typical traditional costume images

YAN Bingyi, HOU Jin, HUANG Qiyu, YANG Hancheng, TIAN Jin, YANG Chunyong

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (05): 184-190. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220406201

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Objective Traditional costume culture is in danger of disappearing gradually and needs effective conservation methods. Currently, most of conservation methods rely on human resources, such as recording traditional costume by taking photos and scanning, causing that the conservation efficiency and culture exchanging are low and an efficient method to preserve the culture is lacking. Therefore, a new deep learning algorithm was proposed for highly accurate recognition of traditional costumes, and an online web identification system was designed based on cloud computing technologies. The proposed research should serve as a new alternative way for conservation and recognization of traditional costume culture efficiently.

Method Firstly, a traditional costume image dataset was constructed and enhanced by the combination of multiple background replacement and geometric transformation. Then, three modified DenseNet169 network models were built by introducing the squee and excitation (SE), convolutional block attention module (CBAM) and coordinate attention (CA), respectively, and these models were later integrated together to form a high-performance algorithm. After that, based on cloud computation and web technology, an online recognition system for typical traditional costume images was constructed by combining image normalization pre-processing and the new algorithm.

Results A traditional costume images dataset, which contains 92 160 images of a total of 15 styles, such as costumes of Zang, Man, Mongolian, Miao, Yi, Gejia, Li, Qiang, Hui, Dai, Zhuang, Han, She, Bai and Korean nationlities, was set up. The comprehensive recognition accuracies for the three improved models (using attention mechanisms SE-Dense Net 169, CBAM-DenseNet169 and CA-DenseNet169, respectively) were 89.50%, 89.83% and 90.17%, respectively (Tab.1). Although all their comprehensive recognition performances were good and similar, each model was limited by poor recognition accuracies for some specific different traditional costume categories. For example, the separated recognition accuracies of SE-DenseNet169 on Li and Zang costumes were only 77.5% and 80%, respectively. After weighting integration of the three models, the final algorithm obtained a high comprehensive recognition accuracy of 93.50% on the verification set. Compared with the previous best comprehensive recognition accuracy of CA-DenseNet169, an improvement of 3.33% was achieved. With the new algorithm, apart from relatively low separated recognition accuracy (about 87.50%) for Li costumes, the separated recognition accuracies for other traditional costume categories were all above 90.00%. Once the Korean costume image was input into the system, the most possible 3 prediction costume categories and the consumption time were displayed (Fig.4). 600 Real scene traditional costume images from different costume categories were tested, only 15 images' corrected categories were not shown in the most possible 3 prediction costume categories, which indicated a high comprehensive recognition accuracy of 98.00%. The value would be decreased to 93.50% if only using the most possible 1 prediction costume category as the output result. Meanwhile, the average processing and recognizing time taken by the system (deployed on an Aliyun server with dual-cores intel i5 CPU and 4 GiB RAM) for an image of 1 MB was around 11-13 s, which should be acceptable.

Conclusion In addition to the problems of lack of effective methods to protect traditional costume culture and limited recognization channels, the research built an online recognition system of typical traditional costume images. The system could efficiently identify 15 types of traditional costume images, and it is convenient to operate, recognize and share. Besides recording, protecting and spreading traditional costume culture efficiently, the system could also be used as a digital tool to promote tourism, culture and economy in various ethnic regions. The research would provide a new alternative solution for conserving and recognizing traditional costume culture. However, at present, the system still has some limitations, such as, only few recognizable traditional costume categories, low recognition accuracy of individual traditional costume categories and slightly slow recognition speed. In the future, the number of recognizable costume categories should be expanded, the algorithm should be improved, and the interface and operation process of the system should be optimized.

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Research progress in electrospinning functional nanofibers with metal-organic framework

JIA Jiao, ZHENG Zuobao, WU Hao, XU Le, LIU Xi, DONG Fengchun, JIA Yongtang

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (06): 215-224. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211103402

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Significance Nanofiber membrane made by electrostatic spinning has the advantages of small fiber diameter, rich pores in the membrane, small porosity, large specific fiber surface area, and easy functional modification. In recent years, nanofiber membrane has shown broad application prospects in the fields of water treatment, new energy, biomedicine and so on. The molecular structure of metal-organic framework (MOF) has the advantages of high specific surface area, uniform pore size and adjustable structure. It is difficult to give full plays to its performance advantages in the fields of flexible functional film and large-area device. Therefore, it is necessary to make full use of the material properties of electrostatic spinning nanofibers with intrinsic flexibility and easy to achieve large-area preparation. The research and development of polymer composite metal-organic frame functional nanofiber membrane materials based on electrostatic spinning is of great significance to broaden the application field of MOF materials.
Progress In this paper, the feasibility of combining metal-organic skeleton with electrospinning membrane is introduced, and the preparation, development and latest research progress of polymer composite metal-organic skeleton functional nanofiber membrane are reviewed. In addition, the applications of electrospun polymer composite metal-organic skeleton functional nanofiber membranes in water treatment, lithium battery separator, drug delivery, gas separation and other fields are systematically classified and discussed. At present, there are many reports on the research of MOF and polymer blending silk, and the preparation methods can be summarized into three types, i.e. (i) polymer solution spinning mixed with MOF particle, (ii) polymer nanofiber membrane modification with MOF and (iii) one-step blending spinning method. For the first methord, MOF particle mixed polymer solution spinning firstly synthesized MOF powder by traditional method, then dried MOF powder was mixed into the spinning solution by ultrasonic dispersion or high temperature dissolution method to prepare polymer mixed metal organic frame powder functional nanofiber membrane. In the second method, the polymer nanofiber membrane was modified by MOF. In this process, ordinary nanofiber membrane was prepared by traditional method, and then the prepared nanofiber membrane was placed in MOF stock solution, and MOF particles were grown on the surface of the nanofiber membrane. In the one-step blending spinning method, MOF and spinning stock are mixed in a specific ratio before electrospinning. The formation of MOF powder occurs simultaneously with the formation of fiber. One-step blending not only simplifies the preparation process, but also disperses MOF uniformly on the polymer fiber. By simplifying the synthesis of conventional MOF composite nanofibers into one step, it has better applicability to more polymers. At the same time, the problems of phase separation between MOF and polymer and aggregation of MOF in the preparation process are avoided, causing change in material properties. The electrospun polymer composite metal-organic frame functional nanofiber membrane has better characteristics than the pure polymer membrane, such as higher porosity and higher specific surface area, and has application potential in medical treatment, new energy and environmental treatment, which is of great significance for the realization of environmental sustainable development.
Conclusion and Prospect The development potential and existing problems of polymer composite metal-organic framework functional nanofiber membranes in recent years were summarized, and the future development trend of this research field was prospected. Although advances have been made in many areas of electrospun polymer/MOF functional nanofiber membranes, some challenges remain. ① The compatibility between MOF and polymer should be considered in the synthesis process. ② The high temperatures required for most functional nanofiber synthesis processes limit the use of heat-sensitive fibers. ③ During the use of functional nanofibers, the degradation of MOF may hinder its function. ④ Durability and functional regeneration. ⑤ We need to consider the actual situation. For example, some functional nanofiber membranes can only work under certain conditions, such as photoinduced antibacterial MOF/fibers requiring sunlight. Therefore, functional nanofibers with more functions are more likely to become a viable technology. In order for electrospun polymer/MOF functional nanofibers to be widely used, it is necessary to develop low-cost, sustainable synthesis methods and further study the key properties of functional nanofibers such as mass load, BET, coverage and uniformity. The open grid structure of MOF material makes it easy to be chemically modified and can conform to reasonable expectations.

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Similarity pattern matching technology based on garment structural feature recognition

LIU Rong, XIE Hong

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (10): 134-142. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220707701

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Objective From the perspective of intelligent pattern making, the closest pattern in the pattern library is matched by the identification of the garment style drawings and new patterns can be developed based on that pattern. This method of pattern making makes maximum use of existing pattern information and simplifies the structure drawing process of the pattern. In order to achieve similarity matching from garment style drawings to patterns, a pattern matching technique based on garment structural feature recognition is proposed.

Method The implementation of this technique consists of two main parts. The first is category label design, where certain structural features in the flat style drawing are defined and multi-label categories are set according to the definition according to the knowledge of women's trouser structural drawing. Then the multi-label categories were transformed into single-label multi-categories, and the link between the flat style diagram, structural features and the pattern was established. Finally, examining the correlation between the labels, the final labels for the experiment were designed. The second part is the model validation. In this part of work, the apparel dataset was established, which took the women's trousers flat style drawing as the sample. Then the AlexNet network was improved in the experiment. These changes mainly include simplifying the network structure and adding batch normalization operations after each convolutional layer.

Results In the process of label design, 18 categories of women's trousers were set through data visualization analysis and the study of correlations between labels. One of the results of the model testing shows the model converges faster after adding the batch normalization after the convolution layer (Fig. 10 and Tab. 4). The recognition accuracy is higher, with the highest recognition accuracy achieved by adding four layers of batch normalization. Second, it can be seen that the final training accuracy of the model tends to be stable around 99% (Fig. 8). The accuracy of the improved model on the validation set is 83.4%, and the recall and F₁ values are 0.834 and 0.835, respectively. Third, the accuracy of the improved model is 6.7% higher than that of the original AlexNet model and 6% and 3.6% higher than that of the ResNet18 and VGG11 models, respectively (Fig. 11, Tab. 5). The number of model parameters is also less than that of the original model.

Conclusion In this paper, the identification of structural features and matching of similar patterns is achieved by defining 18 structural features in the silhouette, waist position, waist shape, waist process and hip circumference, and using them as similarity representations of the pattern, constructing a model using the garment style drawings as input. The experimental research has certain value and significance to the intelligent pattern making of garments. In the process of label design, through the visual analysis of data and the study of the correlation between labels, invalid labels can be eliminated and label categories can be set reasonably, which can improve the problem of uneven data distribution in label categories and improve the utilization rate of data; In the process of model validation, by improving the structure of the original AlexNet model and introducing batch normalization operation in the convolution layer, the convergence speed of the model can be speed up and the recognition accuracy of the model be increased.

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Design and three-dimensional simulation of warp knitted spacer fabrics for shoes

YANG Meiling, JIANG Gaoming, WANG Ting, LI Bingxian

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (08): 96-102. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220700601

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Objective In order to realize the efficient design and simple formation of warp knitted spacer shoe fabrics, the structure and forming principle of shoe fabrics are studied, the application benefit of spacer shoe fabrics is explored, and a design method of spacer shoe material is proposed. With the help of JavaScript and C # computer programming language, fast 3-D simulation of several types of spacer shoe fabrics is carried out with different mesh structures, enriching the choices of the mesh spacer shoe materials.

Method The functional structure of different areas of the shoe upper was divided, and the matrix model of process design was established, including the mathematical model of yarn padding number and threading cycle. 3-D loop models of 8-point unit loop, 2-point weft lining, 16-point double warp knit structure were constructed. The classification table of the retransmitted structures was listed by using the transverse displacement difference between the needle and the back of the needle. The stress analysis of the rerun loop and the spacer loop was carried out.

Results The vamp divided into different mesh areas according to functional requirements. Large mesh is used at the toe to improve breathability, small mesh is used at the toe cap and heel area, and tight structure was used at the hem to improve wear resistance (Fig. 1). The construction principle of the 3-D structure of the 4-comb spacer vamp fabric was analyzed. The re-woven weave can be applied to the top and bottom woven surfaces, and the mesh and pattern are only formed on the top or bottom (Fig. 2). The mathematical matrix was used to visually represent the padding number of the spacer shoe fabric and the warp cycle. The knitting action was expressed according to formula of the front and back needle transverse movement difference. Based on the loop control points, the basic 8-point single-needle loop, 16-point double-needle double-needle loop, and 2-point weft lining 3-D models were established, focusing on the hierarchical relationship between the double-needle loop and the two loop on the horizontal single-needle, and the classification table of the double-needle tissue was established according to the transverse movement of the needle back before the needle (Fig. 4, Tab. 1, Fig. 5). According to the formation mechanism of mesh in the spacer shoe material, stress analysis was carried out on both longitudinal lines, and the stress solution of the spacer wire loop in the 3-D space is also carried out (Fig. 6 and Fig. 7). According to different functional requirements, three types of spacer upper fabric processes with different mesh structures were designed, including raw material, knit structure, warp cycle, warp let-off and other parameters. 3-D simulation of three types of spacer mesh upper fabrics was set up using C# and JavaScript programming languages. The comparison between the physical image and the simulation image was shown (Fig. 8, Fig. 9 and Fig. 10).

Conclusion On the basis of summing up and analyzing the structural characteristics of the interval mesh shoe material, using the practical significance of the mesh structure in the shoe material fabric, the relevant technological mathematical model and geometric model are constructed, the mechanical analysis of the tension on the loop during the fabric knitting and the calculation of the corresponding offset are carried out, and the application of the warp weave structure is discussed, which provides a new idea for the design of the three-layer structure warp knitted shoe material. It provides reliable technical support for three-dimensional mesh simulation of Jacquard shoe fabric.

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Digital design method of clothing reverse modeling

ZHOU Li, FAN Peihong, JIN Yuting, ZHANG Longlin, LI Xinrong

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (12): 138-144. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221001901

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Objective Aiming to obtain doubled amount of design through data reconstruction during generating the digital model from the physical object of the design work, a digital design method of clothing reverse modeling is built up. It mainly addresses two problems: one is to restore and save the data of irreproducible clothing, the other is to carry out reverse modeling and extension design of excellent clothing works.
Methods The point cloud data obtained through 3-D scanning were simplify, and the topology into a quadrilateral grid was optimized. Then, surface reconstruction design was carried out on the special-shaped grids caused by singular points, with position adjusting, quantity increasing and decreasing, and shape changing. As the last step, the digital simulation design of clothing modeling was set up following reverse engineering through mapping and restoration.
Results The clothing design ideas and methods were submitted based on the reverse modeling process (Fig. 1), which could restore quickly the virtual experimental objects and provide designers with new design methods and skills for secondary expansion modeling. The rationality of the pattern structure was verified by the three-dimensional effect of the clothing and the actual object with distinctive features. First, it collects, restores and stores data of irreproducible clothing by clothing models acquiring model topological surface reduction, modeling structure splitting, and texture mapping (Fig. 2). Second, it calibrates the position of the singularity to provide a reference method to quickly carry out reverse modeling and extension design on excellent clothing works (Fig. 3). Third, it carries out extension modeling by adjusting the position of the singularity, increasing or decreasing the number, changing the shape of the surface reconstruction design, and making a real entity for objective verification (Fig. 4). The shape and structure of improved extension design work could be transformed into planes, and the pattern drawing of the reverse topology clothing provides a basis for pattern adjustment, and also lays the foundation for clothing shape design and same type clothing structure optimization (Fig. 5). Fourth, it can be converted into an editable structural pattern based on the expansion of the pattern drawing, so as to further carry out the simulation operation and experiment of the clothing model (Fig. 6). At the same time, dynamic simulation of a series of transformations such as on clothing material, texture and new shape can be carried out (Fig. 7).
Conclusion Taking a drape-cut garment with complex shape as an example, the rationality and feasibility of the garment reverse shape design method are verified. At the same time, it is possible to reversely draw out the clothing version or digital model, to carry out version extension and try-on corrections with 3-D digital software, and to verify the final shape obtained by the reverse modeling method. This method aims to reduce the waste of resources and pollution caused by forward fashion design, to address the long production cycle, and to use digital modeling to improve the high-quality development of design innovation.

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Tensile property modelling of composite core/sheath yarn with double filaments

ZHANG Hua, LIU Shuai, YANG Ruihua

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (08): 57-62. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220308801

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Objective In order to analyze and predict the tensile stress-stain relationship of core/sheath composite yarn with double filaments, a viscoelastic tensile model needs to be developed, which would enable numerical prediction of tensile strength of this composite yarn.

Method The yarn was regarded as a viscoelastic body and its tensile property was shown in the form of the stress-strain corresponding to time. The models commonly used for the research of the tensile fracture mechanism of yarn are varied, such as linear spring, nonlinear spring, nonlinear dashpot, and Maxwell and Kelvin models. Some models above are selected in series or parallel configuration to establish suitable tensile model for core/sheath composite yarn with double filament. Additionally, experimental tests are conducted to verify the correctness of the viscoelastic model.

Results In this study, a nonlinear viscoelastic model was established to predict the tensile stress-strain relationship of core/sheath composite yarn with double filaments. The tensile properties of the yarn were tested, and different stages of the tensile curve were analyzed. The tensile properties of the composite yarns were simulated and calculated by employing the developed model, and the stress-strain relationship was fitted by applying a polynomial on the foundation of the proposed model. According to the results of tensile tests, the strength of the composite yarn was the highest in comparison with filament and staple yarn. Nevertheless, Young's modulus of composite yarn was the lowest among three types of yarns. In terms of elongation, the fracture elongation of staple yarn was much lower than that of the filament and the composite yarn (Fig. 2). The experimental results revealed that the tensile fracture curve of the composite yarn comprised three stages (Fig. 3). In the first stage, the stress and strain of the yarn showed a linear relationship when only staple yarn understood the load. In the second stage, the stress increased rapidly, and the sheath filament began to be stressed. In the final stage, some monofilaments started to fracture and the strength fluctuated, but the overall strength increased slowly. In accordance with the tensile fracture characteristics, a five-element nonlinear viscoelastic model composed of Kelvin element, Maxwell element, and linear springs were established (Fig.4). Thus, the equation of stress-strain relationship on the core/sheath composite yarn with double filaments was attained based on the model. Then, a scipy.optimize.root function in Python was employed to make a solution to the equation and several parameters were calculated. The viscoelastic tensile model can decently explain the three-stage stress-strain characteristics of the composite yarn tensile curve. The theoretical results were consistent with the experimental results, and the pearson correlation coefficient was greater than 0.999 (Fig. 5).

Conclusion This paper presented a five-element nonlinear viscoelastic mechanical model to forecast the tensile properties of core/sheath composite yarn with double filaments, according to an experimental and analytical study of the composite yarn. A polynomial function corresponding to the stress-strain relationship of the composite yarn was constructed to analyze and predict the practical tensile curve. The theoretical predictions showed good consistency with the experimental results. The yield stress derived from the model accurately reflected the different stages of the experimental tensile curve. The proposed five-element viscoelastic tensile model can provide theoretical and experimental reference values for the tensile fracture mechanism of core/sheath composite yarn with double filament. Moreover, a novel concept for research on the yarn tensile fracture mechanism is proposed.

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Establishment of novel model and performance analysis of airflow drafting channel

WANG Qing, LIANG Gaoxiang, YIN Junqing, SHENG Xiaochao, LÜ Xushan, DANG Shuai

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (11): 52-60. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220701701

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Objective In the spinning process, slivers need to be drafted for several times to achieve a certain fineness. At present, this process is mainly performed through the roller drafting mechanism. Due to the limitation of the deceleration ratio of transmission system, the velocity ratio of front and rear rollers is generally small, hence the slivers need to be drafted for several times to achieve the needed drafting ratio. In the process of drafting, the friction force between fibers changes dynamically and so does the drawing force. In order to solve the above problems, an airflow assisted drafting method is proposed, and the performance of such a system is modeled and simulated.

Method It was proposed that the sliver from the airflow drafting channel goes directly into the twisting channel of the air-jet vortex spinning machine. The drafting ratio was set to 140 according to the drafting ratio of roving frame and spinning frame. The outlet air velocity of airflow drafting channel was set to 420 m/s, according to the air-jet vortex spinning speed. The inlet air velocity of airflow drafting channel was calculated as 3 m/s. The model of the airflow drafting channel was established (Fig. 4). The fluid-solid coupling simulation platform was built based on ANSYS Workbench software, and the fluid-solid coupling effects of single straight fiber, two parallel straight fibers and a single hooked fiber were numerically simulated, respectively.

Results The motion trajectories of a single straight fiber, two parallel straight fibers and a single hooked fiber in the drafting channel were obtained by simulation (Fig. 12-14). The fiber was accelerated forward in the drafting channel, and its motion track was wavy (Fig. 12). Due to the large velocity gradient of the air in the drafting channel, the air velocity at the fiber head was higher than that at the fiber tail. As a result, the fiber straightens again when it flew out of drafting channel. When two straight parallel fibers moved in the drafting channel, they got close and eventually contacted each other (Fig. 13). Because of different air velocities at different positions in the drafting channel, the two fibers stagger with each other in the forward process. Compared with straight fibers, the single hooked fiber moved faster in the drafting channel, and the total moving time was greatly reduced (Fig. 14). At the same time, Because of the influence of the friction force of the air, the hooked fibers gradually extend straight during the forward motion.

Conclusion Through the analysis of the above results, these conclusions can be attained. Firstly, velocity gradient of the air in the drafting channel is large, which makes fibers accelerate forward and straighten again when they exit the drafting channel. Secondly, when multiple fibers move in the drafting channel, different fibers stagger forward by means of different air velocities at different positions. That is, the fibers are redistributed in the advancing process. Thirdly, in the process of movement, the hooked fibers will be gradually straightened due to the friction force of the air. So the purpose of straightening fibers is realized similar to that of roller drafting. Finally, Becaust of the boundary layer effect of the air, the air velocity close to the inner wall of the drafting channel is smaller than that in the center of the drafting channel, and the farther away from the center, the lower the air velocity, suggesting that the fibers tend to move close to the inner wall as they move forward. In summary, in the airflow drafting channel, fibers can be accelerated, redistributed and straightened, that is, the purpose of drafting can be achieved, verifying the effectiveness of the airflow drafting method.

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Review on optimal design of personal cooling garments on cooling effect

ZHAO Chen, WANG Min, LI Jun

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (09): 243-250. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220308702

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Significance Heat stress is one of the main health and safety threats for occupational workers when they engage in high-intensity physical labor in hot work scenes, and personal cooling garments (PCG) have been developed to reduce the risk of heat stress and heat-related injuries in hot environments. The cooling effect of PCG is chiefly evaluated by indicators such as cooling duration, cooling rate and human thermal and wet comfort, which are comprehensively affected by factors such as cooling media, basic garments, environment and human activities, reflecting the complexity of the functional design. However, previous studies focused on the cooling mechanism of the cooling media, ignoring supercooling caused by excessive cooling. In addition, basic garments carrying the cooling system for improving cooling effect and human thermal and wet comfort have not been fully considered. This has affected the establishment of the functional design method and system of PCG. Therefore, it is necessary to refine the design essentials for different media to meet different cooling needs, so as to establish a more accurate procedure for the functional PCG design.

Progress Researchers have conducted in-depth research on the factors that affect the cooling effect of PCG and human thermal and wet comfort, from the perspectives including environment, cooling media, basic garments and human activity. The functional design of PCG are considered from two aspects, i.e. the cooling media and the basic garments attached to them. Comparative studies on the characteristics of different types of cooling media, including the cooling methods, advantages and disadvantages of ventilation, liquid and phase change materials. The amount, temperature, humidity and mixed use of the cooling media have a great impact on the cooling effect of PCG and the thermal and wet comfort of the human body. However, insufficient attention was paid to the supercooling of the human body caused by excessive cooling, in contrast to the much increased attention to the cooling time of the cooling system. The auxiliary heat dissipation and moisture removal effect of basic garment fabric and structure design on PCG cannot be ignored as stressed by the researchers, were the fabric performance in heat insulation, air permeability, elasticity and moisture permeability, as well as the clothing structure design attributes such as clothing openings, styles and dimensions are all important. However, there is a lack of in-depth research on the configuration of fabrics and structures.

Conclusion and Prospect The functional design of personal cooling garments can be carried out from two aspects: cooling media and basic garments. The optimization cooling media design can be carried out in association of the media quantity, characteristic parameters, and mixed applications. The quantity and characteristic parameters of each cooling medium have primary and secondary effects on the cooling effect of PCG, and they can be adjusted according to the cooling demands. Under the premise of complementary advantages, the selection of hybrid cooling media should associated to appropriate application scenarios and appropriate cooling strategies. In the design of basic garments, the heat insulation performance, air permeability, elasticity, moisture permeability of fabrics, as well as the opening, style and size design of clothing should be considered separately, and the selection of fabrics and style structures should be adapted to the cooling media. In the future, the configuration design of basic clothing fabric performance and clothing structure under different cooling media can be deeply explored, and accurate design parameters for the configuration of cooling media and basic garments under different environments and different human activity levels can be provided through numerical parameterization research. At the same time, the improvement of cooling efficiency of system has also become the development focus of the PCG functional design.

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Research progress in flexible reinforced silica aerogels

LÜ Hongli, LUO Lijuan, SHI Jianjun, ZHENG Zhenrong, LI Hongchen

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (08): 217-224. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220307302

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Significance Silica aerogel is known as a super thermal insulation material due to its low density, high porosity, low thermal conductivity and strong design. It can be made into powder, microspheres, films and other forms of materials. These excellent properties make it widely used in heat insulation, adsorption, electromagnetic shielding, photocatalysis and other fields. The traditional silica aerogel preparation process is mature, but its network skeleton is slender and fragile offering poor mechanical properties, which seriously limits its applications. The research methods and the strategy for achieving flexible enhancement of silica aerogels are systematically reviewed, including the preparation process and material properties of different silica aerogels, aiming to establish thorough understanding of the design, preparation and applications of flexible aerogel materials for future development.

Progress Silica aerogels prepared by simple hydrophobic modification have slender skeleton and poor mechanical properties, which limits the allocation. At present, the flexible enhancement strategy is mainly divided into two aspects, i.e. component enhancement and process optimization. The technologies for organic group enhancement, polymer crosslinking and fiber enhancement are relatively mature. The simple blending of silicon sources containing organic groups can effectively increase the macromolecular chain segments and improve the compressive strength and elasticity of the material. When polymer crosslinking is used, the mechanical properties of aerogels are improved by introducing organic groups on the hydroxyl groups of silica aerogels and coating organic layers on the outer layer of the slender silicon skeleton. The active groups of different polymers can give different structures and properties of silica aerogels. When the fiber is used as the reinforcing phase, a more stable three-dimensional network can be formed by physical entanglement to improve the flexibility and structural stability of the aerogel composite. In terms of process optimization, two new processes of bionic drying technology and 3D printing technology are mainly introduced. Through detailed analysis of the problems existing in the flexible enhancement research, it is proposed that the component enhancement should be carried out by properly selecting the silane precursor and compounding it with organic polymer or fiber to construct a flexible network skeleton to create the regulation of chemical structure and network skeleton. In terms of process optimization, bionic drying technology has greater comprehensive advantages than atmospheric pressure drying. 3D printing technology can prepare a variety of geometric shapes of materials, which has potential application value for thermal insulation materials and medical fields.

Conclusion and Prospect The preparation of flexible aerogel composites with light heat insulation and good mechanical properties is the future development direction. In terms of component enhancement, the preparation process of organic group enhancement method is relatively simple and easy to achieve results, but the space for improvement is still limited because of the singular inorganic skeleton structure. The introduction of different polymers in the precursor solution can give aerogels different properties, and the study of the crosslinking mechanism is conducive to optimizing the enhancement process. It is feasible to use fibers with different characteristics as reinforcing phases. Different preparation processes can obtain aerogel fiber composites with different molding effects, which solves the problem of direct application of silicon-based aerogels. In terms of process optimization, exploring new bionic drying technology provides a new idea for the optimization of aerogel preparation process. It is worth noting that the new 3D printing technology can meet the design requirements of special material components. Finally, the breakthrough of ambient pressure drying technology, the development of polymer crosslinking or nanofiber reinforced preparation of flexible composite aerogels with orderly and controllable structure are prospected.

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Preparation and filtration of polyurethane/polyvinyl butyral composite nanofiber membrane

SHI Jingya, WANG Huijia, YI Yuqing, LI Ni

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (08): 26-33. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220302001

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Objective Air pollution is increasingly a serious global problem. Traditional filtration media are reported to have insufficient mechanical properties and low filtration efficiency. Therefore, in order to reduce the ecological and public health hazards of PM_0.3 suspended particles emitted from human production activities, the preparation and property evaluation of the nanofiber membrane with improved mechanical properties and filtration efficiency were reported in the paper.

Method Polyurethane (PU) with outstanding flexibility was selected as electrospinning polymer material and the solution mass fraction was fixed at 14%. Polyvinyl butyral (PVB) was used as additives to improve morphology, structure, and properties of PU nanofiber membrane. Different PU/PVB composite fiber membrane was fabricated by changing the mass ratios (8∶2, 7∶3, 6∶4) of PU and PVB. After a series of tests such as scanning electron microscope, Fourier transform infrared spectroscope, thermogravimetric analyzer, differential scanning calorimeter, stretching and filtration, the effects of PVB percentage on the morphological structure, chemical structure, mechanical properties, thermal properties, and filtration properties of PU/PVB composite nanofiber membranes were discussed.

Results The addition of PVB not only increased the spinnability of the fiber solution, but also improved the morphology of the nanofibers(Fig. 1). Under different ratio conditions (8∶2, 7∶3, 6∶4), the average diameter of the fibers was all less than 400 nm, with PU/PVB-8∶2 having the largest average diameter of 385 nm. PU/PVB composite nanofiber membranes presented similar characteristic peaks with PU nanofiber membrane, and the decrease of PU mass share in electrospinning solution leaded to a decreasing trend of the characteristic peaks at 3 318 cm^-1, 1 700-1 600 cm^-1 and 1 100 cm^-1(Fig. 2). PU/PVB composite nanofiber membranes also showed similar decomposition trends and characteristic peaks with those of PU membranes (Fig. 3). These indicated that the addition of PVB did not change chemical structure of PU in the composite membranes. The decomposition onset temperature of PU nanofiber membrane was 249.49 ℃, while the temperature of PU/PVB composite nanofiber membranes was higher than 280 ℃(Tab. 1), indicating that the addition of PVB increased the thermal stability of PU nanofiber membrane. At this time, the introduction of PVB effectively promoted the mixing of molecules within the blend and thus moderating the thermodynamic process and enhancing the thermal stability of the composite nanofiber membranes(Fig. 4). PU nanofiber membrane exhibited a fracture stress of 11 MPa and a fracture strain of 189%, while PU/PVB-8∶2 nanofiber membrane showed mechanical properties with a fracture stress of 16 MPa and a fracture strain of 148%. At this point, the elastic modulus of the composite nanofiber membrane reached a maximum of 8 MPa(Fig. 5), indicating that the mechanical properties of the composite nanofiber membrane were optimal at this mass ratio. The average pore size and porosity of PU nanofiber membrane was 7.24 μm and 55% separately. PU/PVB nanofiber membranes showed decreased pore size ranging from 1.57 to 2.95 μm and increased porosity ranging from 77% to 81% (Tab. 2). For various PU/PVB nanofiber membranes, the pore size of PU/PVB-8∶2 was only 1.78 μm and the pore size distribution was uniform. Compared to the permeability of PU fiber membrane ((63.39±1.83) mm/s), the permeability of the composite nanofiber membranes ranged from 29.04 to 37.57 mm/s. The Q_F values of PU/PVB composite nanofiber membranes were all greater than 0.02 Pa^-1, and the filtration efficiencies for PM_0.3 particles were all greater than 95%.

Conclusion The addition of PVB effectively reduces the diameter of the nanofiber and the pore size of nanofibers membranes, increases the porosity of the nanofiber membranes and improves the thermal, mechanical and filtration properties of the nanofiber membranes. When the mass ratio of PU to PVB is 8∶2, the average diameter of the fibers is 385 nm, the fracture stress is 16 MPa, the fracture strain is 148% and initial decomposition temperature is 289.37 ℃. The composite nanofiber membrane also shows the smallest pore size of 1.78 μm, a permeability of 29.37 mm/s, a filtration efficiency of 98.851% for PM_0.3, a resistance pressure drop of 181.7 Pa, and a quality factor of 0.024 6 Pa^-1,indicating that it is an ideal medium for microfiltration.

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Development of personal comfort models based on machine learning and their application prospect in clothing engineering

WANG Zhongyu, SU Yun, WANG Yunyi

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (05): 228-236. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220303402

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Significance Human, clothing and external environment form an interactive system. As a barrier between the environment and human body, clothing directly affects the thermal comfort of people. It is indispensable to evaluate the thermal comfort or personal safety. However, individual differences would lead to discrepancy in subjective feelings and efficiency could be impaired if frequent subjective assessment is needed in working process. Therefore, effectively predicting the thermal comfort of individuals and returning timely suggestions to improve the micro-environment between clothing and body would be necessary. Conventional thermal comfort models including steady-state heat transfer models, thermal adaptative models and dynamic thermal physiology models were established based on physical equations or data from general population, without considering individual differences. Therefore, new methods should be introduced to study the personal thermal comfort. Researches have been carried out on the application of machine learning algorithms to establish personal thermal comfort models, predicting individual thermal comfort through data-driven methods. Compared with conventional models, the prediction of the personal thermal comfort models is significantly improved. The models overcome the defects of the conventional models which are complicated and inflexible, predict thermal comfort in real time, and are beneficial to improve of micro thermal environment more efficiently.

Progress The personal thermal comfort models established by machine learning could be regarded as a supervised learning process. Sample source, input features and output labels, machine learning algorithms and evaluation indicators are the main influencing factors encountered during the establishment. Sample source brings about the question of applicability. Models built upon laboratory data may not be fit for field studies, neither are models established with mild environments' data suitable for extreme conditions. The sample size for achieving stable prediction varied from models. Generally, input characteristic parameters included environmental parameters collected from the surrounding environment or meteorological platform, and individual parameters reflecting the state of the human, could be both considered when collecting input features. Subjective evaluation index as output labels depended on research purpose and the evaluation of human thermal comfort should consider at least two subjective indexes, including symmetric and asymmetric ones. When selecting machine learning algorithms, the sample size and applicability of the algorithm also should be taken into account, as well as the cost and interpretability. Evaluating the prediction performance helps to confirm the validity of models especially when conducting multi-index evaluation. Indexes such as accuracy, precision, recall are suitable for the binary-classification conditions, while Kappa coefficient could handle the multi-classification and imbalanced datasets. The models based on machine learning has a broad application prospect in clothing due to its personalization, flexibility and dynamic predictions. Developing intelligent temperature regulating clothing that could predict the thermal comfort of individuals in real time and change the control strategies accordingly has become a research hotspot. Personal thermal comfort models provide a feasible technical path by combining software and wearable hardware systems. Once achieved, the thermal security would be guaranteed and the work efficiency improved.

Conclusion and Prospect Personal thermal comfort models based on machine learning algorithm is a new method to achieve individual thermal comfort prediction, which has the advantages of user personalization, multi-dimensional input parameters and dynamic prediction. At present, some progress has been made in the research of this model, which is summarized as follows. 1) The data of the model usually come from simulated experiment environment or actual working environment, but the prediction model based on the two kinds of data is not universal. Therefore, the reasons and solutions for the differences can be further explored to expand the application scope of the model. 2) Personal thermal comfort is mainly affected by the environment and individual factors. The selection of feature parameters should adopt multi-parameter combination with different properties, and the number of feature parameters should be controlled according to different algorithms. When applied in the field of clothing research, attention should be paid to comprehensively consider the influence of clothing on human thermal regulation. 3) A variety of indicators are involved when evaluating models' prediction performance, and the evaluation objects and applicability of which should be considered. In order to overcome the limitation and incomparability of single index evaluation, future studies might focus on multi-index comprehensive evaluation to evaluate the model's prediction and generalization ability. 4) Personal thermal comfort models established by machine learning algorithm has high application value in the field of intelligent clothing. The modeling technique's improvement could provide key technical support for development of intelligent temperature regulating clothing. Accordingly, the real time thermal comfort requirements of operators would be met, while operational efficiency and thermal safety could be guaranteed.

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Embroidery style transfer modeling based on multi-scale texture synthesis

YAO Linhan, ZHANG Ying, YAO Lan, ZHENG Xiaoping, WEI Wenda, LIU Chengxia

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (09): 84-90. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220504801

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Objective There are still many problems in the existing embroidery image generation algorithms, such as singular style of the generated image, rough features, and many artifacts. Aiming at this situation, embroidery style transfer modeling based on multi-scale texture synthesis is proposed. By improving the existing style transfer algorithm, embroidery-style images with higher perceptual quality are expected to be created.

Method Multi-stylized loss function was adopted to extract the edge information and detailed structure of the content image and the style image, and the results were compared with the effect of the transfer image generated by only using the content loss and the style loss.

Results Experiments presults showed that the multi-stylizd loss function could generate embroidery migration images with clear texture. Gatys' model was shown to have more artifacts and deformations in the conversion process of the image with dense lines, and Johnson's model also had artifacts and conversion errors in the conversion of feather details. Li and Wand's model lacks embroidery details such as stitching and texture variations (Fig. 6). The multi-scale texture synthesis embroidery style transfer model (MTE-NST) proposed in this research transfered the detailed structure of the style map well, which was closer to the real embroidery work, and was better than the first three models in terms of style and details. MTE-NST had the smallest MSE (the smallest style loss) and the smallest LPIPS (the highest image perceptual similarity), and the image quality and transfer effect were better. The test time and occupied memory were second only to Johnson, which are 0.58 s, 3 900 MB, respectively which are quite close, further verifying that MTE-NST can generate more realistic embroidery style image (Tab. 2).

Conclusion This paper proposes a MTE-NST, which learns hierarchically the multi-scale embroidery art styles. MTE-NST can not only restore the style image color but also preserve the texture structure and fine details of the image edge, which solves the problem of texture conversion mismatch and can generate embroidery style transfer pictures with better visual effects.

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Research progress in Kansei engineering for textile and clothing applications

ZHANG Jun, HU Song, TONG Mengxia, XIAO Wenling

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (11): 240-249. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220704702

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Significance The clothing market has undergone a paradigm transform from mass production to customization and personalization, while consumers are increasingly emphasizing the aesthetic expectations and emotional identity associated with clothing products. Aligning product design and development with the psychological needs of consumers to enhance the emotional value of the product has become a pivotal goal for enterprises. However, human subjective feelings are usually uncertain and ambiguous, posing challenges in quantifying consumers' perceptual preferences and evaluations. Kansei engineering is a design methodology utilizing engineering techniques to quantify human emotions and perceptions, enabling the acquisition of perceptual measurements and establishing the relationship between perceptual and physical attributes. In order to clarify the development and application of Kansei engineering and to master its frontier and development trends in textile and clothing, this paper comprehensively reviews the research progress in Kansei engineering for textile and clothing applications.

Progress Kansei engineering serves as a widely adopted method for quantifying emotions, finding extensive utility in textiles and clothing. Its applications primarily include clothing and fabric design, consumer psychology analysis, clothing product evaluation, and the development of intelligent systems. Initially, the implementation of Kansei engineering relied mainly on the semantic differential method to capture and quantify subjective feelings, and then the correlation between consumers', Kansei information and the objective physical quantities will be established through regression analysis or other methods. However, Kansei information obtained by the semantic differential method is susceptible to various influencing factors, thereby reducing its accuracy. Further, there has been a turn towards combining bioelectrical signals such as electrocardiogram, electroencephalo-gram, and electromyogram, heart rate, eye tracking and other modalities to capture changes in subjective feelings. Additionally, fuzzy mathematical methods have shown promise in addressing the uncertainty and ambiguity of perceptual evaluations. In recent years, remarkable advancements in deep learning techniques have also been witnessed, significantly enhancing the performance of classification and regression tasks. This approach not only facilitates the prediction and interpretation of consumers', aesthetic perceptions but also enables the correlation of user requirements with design factors, thereby assisting designers in achieving innovative designs. Machine learning-based intelligent systems for clothing are personalized, dynamic and have high predictive accuracy, which has become a research hotspot in textile and clothing. Its realization will significantly enhance the emotional attributes of clothing products and the convenience of the clothing market.

Conclusion and Prospect Kansei engineering can effectively facilitate clothing product evaluation and consumer psychology analysis and optimize the clothing product design. Although its application in textiles and clothing is progressively maturing, certain challenges persist. 1) Limited focus on other perceptual modalities. Most research predominantly relies on the semantic differential method to gather Kansei information from vision and tactile. However, integrating diverse Kansei information from multiple modalities (such as olfaction, physical behavior, and physiological perception) can enrich the understanding of user feelings. 2) Homogeneity and small sample size of selected populations. Diversified participants can be representative of a wider consumer group. 3) Overreliance on subjective evaluation. Current perceptual engineering research relies mainly on subjective evaluations, neglecting the potential benefits of incorporating objective methods and engineering technology tools. The combination of subjective and objective data can be better achieved through methods such as physiological measurement, artificial intelligence, and fuzzy mathematics, to deeply explore users'emotional needs and the inherent value of products.

In the future, the multimodal Kansei engineering is expected to be a potential effective means for textile and clothing Kansei study. Complex consumer populations can be categorized by Kansei engineering techniques. Then, emotions, perspectives, behavior, and environmental factors of consumers could be combined to construct a Kansei information database for the consumer group. Additionally, it is crucial to develop Kansei design and recommendation systems for textile and clothing products. The implementation of a Kansei-based virtual fitting system can provide consumers with immersive user collaborative design and personalization recommendation services. Finally, incorporating more advanced artificial intelligence techniques in Kansei engineering research will significantly improve the predictive capabilities of Kansei models on the perceptual preferences of consumers and increase the emotional added value of textile and clothing products.

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Preparation and stab-resistance of bionic scale-like knitted fabrics

LIU Qing, NIU Li, JIANG Gaoming, MA Pibo

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (11): 90-97. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220605101

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Objective In view of the problems of many layers and poor flexibility of stab equipment in the current market, a bionic scale-like knitted fabric (SLKF) similar to pangolin's overlapping scale structure was knitted from ultra high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) yarns by using flat knitting technology, overcoming the difficulty of knitting complex structure with high-performance yarn. This novel fabric with overlapping scale structure is expected to further improve the stab-resistance.

Method The forming principle of SLKF was explored through simulation of fabric structure. Through quasi-static stab experiments (Fig. 4), the influences of different puncture positions, directions, scale sizes and puncture tools on the stab-resistance of the SLKF were studied. Through the structure model of a single scale and the change of fabric parameters, the rules of scale area coverage, fabric weight and scale deflection angle changing with the scale size are further clarified. The damage morphology of the SLKF was observed by optical microscope and scanning electron microscope, and the damage mechanism of the SLKF was analyzed.

Results Inspired by the overlapping structure of pangolin (Fig. 1), nine SLKFs were knitted(Fig.2), and the fabric exhibits excellent forming capabilities during the knitting process. Through simulation of the fabric structure, shrinkage of the adjacent loops in the fabric was utilized to form the overlap scale effect (Fig. 3). When stabbing in the overlapping section, or in the 0° direction, the SLKF demonstrated better stab-resistance, mainly by virtue of the large number of coils at the stab edge (Fig. 5). The stab-resistance of nine distinct SLKFs was investigated (Fig. 6), and the findings reveal a positive correlation between scale size and stab-resistance, indicating that larger scales offer enhanced protection. In order to further study the influence of scale size on stab-resistance, structure model of single scale and changes of fabric parameters was explored (Fig. 7), the results showed that the coverage of the total scale area was increased with the increase of the number of rows, the weight of fabric increased linearly with the increase of the number of rows, and the deflection angle of scales decreased gradually with the increase of the number of longitudinal rows. Two different standard knives D1 and D3 were adopted to explore the stab-resistance of SLKF, and the stabbing speed is 10 mm/min. The results demonstrate that the stab-resistance of SLKF under knife D3 is better than that of D1 (Fig. 8), and the reasons for this phenomenon can be explained as follows: under D1, the fabric failure was mainly caused by yarn cutting and tensile, accompanied by yarn extraction; and under D3, the main reasons for fabric failure were mainly extrusion and stretching, accompanied by a small amount of yarn tensile fracture failure(Fig. 9).

Conclusion In this research, inspired by the overlapping scales structure of pangolin, a bionic SLKF is prepared by UHMWPE yarn, and its forming principle and stab-resistance are discussed. The research shows that the shrinkage of the loops at the scale joint and the separate knitting of the front and back needle beds are the main principles for the formation of SLKFs. Overlapping effect of scales can effectively improve the stab-resistance of the fabric. The stabbing process of the SLKF under the two knives is different, and its damage behavior mainly includes yarn cutting fracture failure and tensile fracture failure. This work can provide reference for the preparation of stab-resistant materials.

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Preparation and application of silk fibroin/chitosan composite fiber membrane

LEI Caihong, YU Linshuang, JIN Wanhui, ZHU Hailin, CHEN Jianyong

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (11): 19-26. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220606801

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Objective Silk fibroin (SF) is a macromolecular protein derived from silk. In recent years, silk-based biomaterials have been studied and applied in the field of wound repair and become the preferred material for wound dressing. However, single silk fibroin-based biomaterials have weak antibacterial performance, which limits their application in wound dressing. Meanwhile, chitosan (CS) has non-toxicity, good biocompatibility and strong antibacterial properties, and has a wide range of applications in the field of medical dressings. Electrospinning technology has potential development in the field of wound dressing and is potential for developing fiber membrane materials with excellent performance.

Method With hexafluoropropanol and trifluoroacetic acid as solvent, silk fibroin was dissolved to prepare chitosan blended spinning solution. Electrospinning was adopted to prepare the composite fiber membrane, and the silk fibroin/chitosan composite fiber membrane microstructure was studied to determine bibulous rate and to characterize the hemostatic and antibacterial properties.

Results Before ethanol soaking, the fibers of pure silk fibroin membrane SF were smooth and loose, without bead shape, but after ethanol soaking, the fibers became dense and reticular. After the addition of chitosan, the SF/CS composite fiber membrane fibers became thinner. The network structure of electrospinning was conducive to the increase and proliferation of cell binding sites when the fiber membrane touches the wound (Fig. 1). The absorption peaks of amide I at 1 625 cm^-1 and amide II at 1 520 cm^-1 were present for the composite fiber membranes. Chitosan has sec-alcohol hydroxyl at 1 029 cm^-1 υ(C—O). It was seen that the typical characteristic peaks of CS and SF appeared for SF/CS composite fiber membranes, indicating that SF and CS were physically mixed and no new substances were produced (Fig. 2). In the process of increasing chitosan content, the water absorption of composite fiber membrane were increased followed by a decrease. Compared with hemostatic gauze, the absorbency of the composite fiber membrane was significantly improved (Fig. 3). With the increase of chitosan content, the blood absorbed by SF/CS composite fiber membrane increased, and the color of supernatant gradually became lighter. Its in vitro coagulation-promoting capability was superior to that of hemostatic gauze (Fig. 4). With the increase of chitosan content, the coagulation time of SF/CS composite fiber membrane was gradually shortened, among which, SF/CS4(the mass ratio of SF to CS of 5∶2) composite fiber membrane had the shortest coagulation time and the best coagulation effect (Fig. 5). With the increase of chitosan content, the antibacterial effect of SF/CS composite fiber membrane on the two strains was gradually enhanced. The antibacterial effect of SF/CS composite fiber membrane on Staphylococcus aureus was obviously better than that on Escherichia coli. When the mass ratio of silk fibroin to chitosan was 5∶2, the bacteria inhibition rate against Escherichia coli was (73.93±0.85)%, the bacteria inhibition zone diameter was (11.88±0.04) mm, and the bacteria inhibition zone diameter against Staphylococcus aureus was (93.27±0.97)%, the bacteria inhibition zone diameter was (15.34±0.04) mm (Fig. 6 and Fig. 7).

Conclusion Silk fibroin/chitosan composite fiber membranes with different mass ratios were prepared by electrospinning technology, and their micromorphology, water absorption, hemostatic and bacteria inhibition properties were investigated. The antibacterial activity and hemostatic performance of composite fiber membranes are closely related to the content of chitosan. When the mass ratio of silk fibroin to chitosan is 5∶2, the composite fiber membrane SF/CS4 has higher water absorption and better antibacterial effect. Meanwhile, the results of hemostatic performance test show that the composite fiber membrane SF/CS4 has smaller in vitro coagulation index and shorter in vitro coagulation time. Hemostatic performance is better than hemostatic gauze. The composite fiber membrane material prepared with silk fibroin-based has good performance, which is worth further exploration for application for wound healing.

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Research progress in computer aided cotton blending technology

WANG Menglei, WANG Jing'an, GAO Weidong

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (08): 225-233. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220405002

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Significance Computer-aided cotton blending integrates advanced intelligent technology and traditional manufacturing, which is an important foothold of intelligent transformation of textile industry. The "Fourteenth Five-Year Plan" for developing the textile industry and demand for intelligent textile manufacturing call for comprehensively accelerating the industry's digital transformation, optimizing the production process, improving production efficiency, and achieving lean manufacturing. The textile industry's intelligent infrastructure has received a lot of attention during the "Thirteenth Five-Year Plan" period. Many technically advanced raw cotton information platforms and production information systems have emerged, gathering a sizable amount of raw cotton sales and public inspection data on the supply side of the raw cotton, and forming an internal enterprise including procurement, inventory, process, scheduling, products, sales and other dimensions of Standardized production data, constituting a sizable set of "supply and production" big-data system. For the intellectual development of China's cotton spinning firms, it is now imperative to find a way to maximize the value of supply and production data and to investigate intelligent management technologies that can significantly boost production efficiency and process level.

Progress The system framework of computer-aided cotton blending is introduced, and its development and application are summarized and analyzed around technical modules and technical connotations, in order to explore the future development of computer-aided cotton blending technology and promote the improvement of advanced management level and production efficiency of cotton spinning enterprises. The current research on intelligent raw cotton management aims to solve the optimization of raw cotton usage, which mainly includes the yarn quality prediction model and the cotton blending optimization model. (1) The yarn quality prediction model methods use supervised machine learning models such as multiple linear regression, support vector machines, artificial neural networks, and other improved models. In terms of model training approaches, evolutionary optimization algorithms have gained considerable attention in addition to the conventional analytical solution method and gradient descent method. (2) The cotton blending optimization model prioritizes cotton cost and yarn quality and creates a multi-objective optimization model based on inventory, total cotton consumption, cotton type, and cotton similarity. (3) To meet the needs of cotton spinning businesses for yarn quality management, a set of cotton blending technology management decision support system will be created in practical applications, integrating four functional modules of raw cotton inventory database maintenance, yarn quality prediction and management, cotton blending program formulation, cotton blending and yarn quality files, and a human-computer interactive interface.

Conclusion and Prospect After analyzing the two key components of the computer-aided cotton blending process, namely yarn quality prediction and the core technology utilized in the design of the cotton blending scheme, a number of difficulties with the current research are proposed: (1) The current study yarn quality prediction model lacks useful characteristics to characterize the performance distribution data of raw cotton in the cotton blending scheme and cannot adapt to the cotton blending scheme with length variation. (2) The current cotton blending optimization model optimizes the formulation of each cotton blending scheme as a single task and only for the production of a single variety (or a single production line), ignoring the fact that cotton blending is a time series task for multiple varieties on the multi-production line. Methods to improve the efficiency, precision, and generalizability of models must be investigated from the viewpoints of feature expression, model structure, and optimization technique. Also, the processing efficiency of large data and the universality of production mode must be enhanced. On the one hand, the computer-aided cotton blending system continues to progress the standardization and expansion of raw cotton quality inspection, while focusing on the in-depth application of big data for raw cotton. On the other hand, it will likely accelerate the intelligent transformation and upgrading of the textile sector. As big data and artificial intelligence technologies continue to improve, it is expected that the computer-aided cotton blending system study will make major strides in integrating cloud market data and adapting to the personalized production mode of future businesses.

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Relationship between specific work of rupture and blended ratio of two-component blended yarns

ZHOU Yuyang, WANG Xubin, CAO Qiaoli, LI Hao, QIAN Lili, YU Chongwen

Journal of Textile Research 2023, 44 (10): 39-47. DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220706901

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Objective Compared with the tenacity, specific work of rupture can specify the resistance of yarn to breakage more accurately. The specific work of rupture for blended yarn is strongly connected with blended ratio in blended yarn, but little attention has been concentrated on this field. Therefore, in order to predict the specific work of rupture for two-component blended yarn with various blended ratios and guide the reasonable selection of blended ratio in production, the law of varying specific work of rupture for two-component blended yarn with blended ratio was investigated.

Method Based on the analysis of rupture process for two-component blended yarn, some special points on the stress-strain curve of blended yarn were predicted using the stress-strain curves of pure spun yarns. By linearly connecting these points, a simple model of stress-strain curve for blended yarn was obtained. According to this model, expression of specific work of rupture was obtained. Cotton/viscose blended yarns were then spun and its tensile properties were tested so as to verify the established relationship in this paper. The data from previous literature were also used to further verification of the relationship's accuracy and applicability.

Results The predicted and experimental values of specific work of rupture for cotton/viscose, cotton/bamboo pulp fiber, cotton/modacrylic, cotton/soybean protein fiber, cotton/high strength polyamide, hemp/polyamide, cashmere/wool and polyester/soybean protein fiber yarns were considered in this research (Fig.7, Fig. 9-15). The predicted relations of specific work of rupture with blended ratio are essentially consistent according to the experimental results. The prediction error of specific work of rupture by this expression was acceptable and similar to that of tenacity and breaking extension by predecessors' expression. There are two main reasons for the prediction error of specific work of rupture, which are the simplification of tensile curve and the prediction error of tenacity and breaking extension. The actual stress-strain curves of blended yarns are often smooth and convex, while the predicted curve is simplified as straight or broken line (Fig. 4 and Fig. 5). When the actual curve is convex, such as cotton/viscose blended yarn (Fig. 7 and Fig. 8), cotton/bamboo pulp fiber blended yarn (Fig. 9) and polyester/soybean protein fiber blend yarn (Fig. 15), the predicted value of the specific work of rupture will be smaller than the experimental. On the contrary, when the actual curve is concave, such as high proportion of modacrylic blended yarn and high proportion of wool blended yarn, the predicted values of specific work of rupture will be larger than the experimental values. On the other hand, if the predicted value of tenacity or breaking extension is larger than the experimental, the predicted value of specific work of rupture would also be larger than the experimental. On the contrary, the predicted values of tenacity or breaking extension was smaller than the experimental, such as cotton/soybean protein fiber (Fig. 11), cotton/high strength polyamide(Fig. 12) and hemp/polyamide blended yarns (Fig. 13), the predicted values of specific work of rupture would also be smaller than the experimental.

Conclusion The relationship between specific work of rupture and blended ratio of two-component blended yarn is established in this paper. Then the applicability and reliability of the relationship are verified by the experimental data. It was found that, similar to the tenacity and breaking extension, the trend of specific work of rupture for blended yarn with the blended ratio varies around the critical blended ratio. This work provides a simple method for predicting the specific rupture work of blended yarn, and the prediction error is similar to that of existing expressions of tenacity or breaking extension and is within the acceptable range. Therefore, this study can provide guidance for blended yarn manufacture.

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