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    Quality evaluation of knitting yarns using modified FKCM
    LIU Hao;CHENG Ling
    JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH    2009, 30 (01): 37-41.  
    Abstract1335)      PDF(pc) (705KB)(14769)       Save
    In order to evaluate more objectively the performance of knitting yarns, a method using modified fuzzy kernel C-Means (FKCM) clustering algorithm for processing and analyzing of knitting yarns is proposed, in which, the data of low dimension input space is mapped to high dimension feature space, FCM clustering algorithm is performed in the feature space, then the Kernel F clustering validity index is designed for seeking the fitness clustering number, and the corresponding relationship model of class sequence numbers and quality grades is constructed. By analyzing the IRIS Dataset, the result shows the modified FKCM has obtained better classification effect. When it is applied to measuring dataset, and KF index indicates it is reasonable to classify the samples into two kinds. According to the constructed relation of classes and quality grades, the quality grade of each class is acquired. The combination of modified FKCM and KF index provides an efficient data analysis method for multi-index dataset.
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    Cited: Baidu(3)
    Popularity-index forecasting model for supporting apparel supply-chain quick response
    ZHANG Gefu;XU Qi
    JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH    2009, 30 (06): 131-137.  
    Abstract1045)      PDF(pc) (1143KB)(1149)       Save
    In order to forecast the popular state of new products in apparel market, this paper built a new kind of forecasting multiply model based on time series. Through describing the market state of any new apparel products, this paper defines three representation variables, such as acceptance ratio, trend and life cycle. Many factors such as apparel itself, market environment and customer themselves’ characters are comprehensively considered when evaluate those characters which influence market demand. All sub-functions are discussed, including day-mean index, people flow cycle features, the functions such as price influence, trend and demand on seasonal products. And, through a calculation example and computer simulation, this model is verified and the meaning of forecasting is interpreted.
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    Cited: Baidu(3)
    JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH    2009, 30 (03): 13-17.  
    Abstract937)      PDF(pc) (566KB)(1069)       Save
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    Research progress of bio-based lignin flame retardant and its applications
    XIAO Mengyuan, ZHOU Xinke, ZHANG Jiayue, REN Yuanlin
    Journal of Textile Research    2020, 41 (12): 182-188.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200305507
    Abstract592)   HTML22)    PDF(pc) (3783KB)(939)       Save

    Lignin is a flame retardant material with complex chemical structure and low flame retardant efficiency, the research status of lignin in flame retardant materials at home and abroad was reviewed. This paper introduced four types of lignin flame retardants: single-component lignin-based flame retardants, lignin-based composite flame retardants, chemically modified lignin flame retardants and nano-lignin flame retardants. The specific role and problems of lignin in the flame retardant system was reviewed and analyzed. The characteristics and flame retardant mechanisms of all types of flame retardants were examined, leading to proposals of lignin development direction as bio-based flame retardants. The review revealed that among the four types of flame retardants, lignin-based composite flame retardants and chemically modified lignin flame retardants have the best flame retardant properties, and the combination of lignin with other materials and structural modification of lignin will be the focus of future research.

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    Research progress in detection of hydrogen peroxide concentration
    XIANG Zhong, WANG Yuhang, WU Jinbo, QIAN Miao, HU Xudong
    Journal of Textile Research    2020, 41 (10): 197-204.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200102308
    Abstract949)   HTML61)    PDF(pc) (939KB)(653)       Save

    In order to effectively solve problems in the concentration detection of hydrogen peroxide (HP) in textile process, and to improve the accuracy, efficiency and range of the detection, this paper reviewed on the detection method and mathematical model of HP. Six methods for detecting HP concentration were examined, including conventional titration, electrochemical analysis, spectrophotometry, fluorescence/chemiluminescence, refractive index and microwave. The principle, research progress and applicability of each method were analyzed. It is found that although the conventional titration method has high precision, it is more time and energy consuming. Electrochemical analysis has fast response and strong anti-interference ability. The cost of spectrophotometry is high and it is relatively more complicated. Fluorescence/chemiluminescence method has high sensitivity but more shows interference. The refractive index and microwave methods are highly sensitive, but at present they apply only to single component solutions. According to the analysis, electrochemical analysis is deemed to be more suitable for detecting HP in the textile process, and the effective solution to ohmic drop caused by high concentration of HP would be the one of the focuses for future research.

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    Review of new dyeing technologies for reactive dyes and disperse dyes
    WU Wei, JI Bolin, MAO Zhiping
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 1-12.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230200802
    Abstract371)   HTML78)    PDF(pc) (4337KB)(399)       Save

    Significance Although dyeing is an important technique to give color to textiles, it also depletes resources and creates a lot of pollution. Reactive and disperse dyes are the most widely used dyes for coloring cellulose and polyester fibers, respectively. The output of two dyes accounts for more than 70% of the total output of dyes. However, reactive dyeing has problems with insufficient dye utilization, excessive use of inorganic salts, and high wastewater discharge. Meanwhile, the reduction cleaning step in the disperse dyeing process uses a lot of water and energy. The dispersants and unfixed dyes which are washed off in the reduction cleaning step will cause more difficulty in treating wastewater. Therefore, innovative dyeing techniques of two dyes that can solve these problems were reviewed in this paper.

    Progress In order to reduce the usage amount of inorganic salts in reactive dyeing technology, researchers developed a series of methods to increase the affinity of dyes and fibers, such as cationic modifications and designing macromolecular dyes. In order to improve the utilization of dyes, the wet pickup of the fabric was controlled at a low level to reduce the hydrolysis of reactive dyes. The low wet pickup dyeing technologies are foam dyeing, vacuum-dewatering aided pad-steam dyeing, spray dyeing and ″moisture fixation″ dyeing. Organic solvent (ethanol, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, silicone oil) /water mixed solvent, liquid ammonia, and organic mixed solvent (dimethyl sulfoxide/dimethyl carbonate) were used as dyeing media to reduce the wastewater discharge. In order to solve the problem of low dyeing efficiency and high material consumption of rope dyeing, open-width dyeing technology for the cotton knitted fabric was developed. For disperse dyeing techniques, the first advancement is the development of alkali-resistant disperse dyes, which were created to solve the problem of water and energy usage during the reduction cleaning process. Owing to the same alkaline conditions, the pre-treatment and soap-washing procedures can also be combined with alkaline dyeing technology to increase production effectiveness. Secondly, the polymer dispersants with low molecular weights, no matter the synthesized copolymer anions or modified biomass polymers, were designed to make the dyes maintain nanoscales in water by grinding. Thus, the nano-scale liquid disperse dyes were prepared to improve the dyeing uptake and reduce loose color. With the use of microcapsule shells, the non-reduction clearing effect is achieved through the adhesion on the surface of the fabrics. Finally, non-aqueous media such as supercritical carbon dioxide fluid or organic solvents (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, liquid paraffin) are used for dyeing to save water consumption.

    Conclusion and Prospect To sum up, the development of the two dyeing technologies focused on reducing the use of chemicals and wastewater emission, improving the utilization rate of dyes, and improving the efficiency of dyeing production. The use of reactive dyes with little or no salt has the problem of poor dyeing levelness or color fastness. For the wet pickup dyeing technology, the main direction of future research is to control the uniformity of dyeing and improve the color fixation rate to the highest level. The directions that need to be explored include the adaptability of open-width dyeing technology for knitted cotton textiles to thin fabric and the enhancement of process stability. Alkaline dyeing, nano liquid disperse dyeing and non-reduction clearing dyeing technologies have basically reached the industrial level, but it is still necessary to improve the categories of dyeable fabrics and improve the dyeing quality. It still needs to keep developing the theoretical framework and supporting equipment for less-water or non-aqueous dyeing technologies, whether they use reactive or disperse dyeing systems. In the future, reactive and disperse dyeing technologies continue to advance in a green and consumption-reduction direction, which will encourage the textile dyeing and printing industry to achieve the ″carbon dioxide emissions peak and carbon neutrality″ target as soon as feasible.

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    Geometry model and experimental verification of 2.5-D woven composites
    CAO Haijian;QIAN Kun;SHENG Dongxiao
    JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH    2009, 30 (05): 58-62.  
    Abstract1256)      PDF(pc) (882KB)(809)       Save
    In order to validate the relationship between structure and mechanical properties of 2.5-D woven fabric composites, the unit cell geometry model of 2.5-D woven composites was built by adopting the assumption of raceway fibers on the basis of the micrograph observation and ananlysis of the fabric section. The geometry model formular is used to deduce the length of yarns, the orientation angle of the nodulated yarns and the fiber volume content on some typical 2.5-D woven composites, such as shallow curve-linking structures, shallow straight-linking ones, and deep angle-linking ones, and tensile strength and compress strength of the composites are forecated. Experimental samples of meeting the need of 2.5-D woven composites are made and experiments are performed. Theoretical predictions agree well with the experimental results, thus the proposed model is verified.
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    Cited: Baidu(4)
    Progress of study on pressure comfort of clothing
    MENG Xiang-ling;ZHANG Wei-yuan
    JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH    2006, 27 (7): 109-112.  
    Abstract1340)      PDF(pc) (107KB)(1893)       Save
    Clothing comfort involves three potential independent factors,i.e.,thermal & moisture comfort,tactile comfort and pressure comfort.Being a component of the entire comfort of clothing,pressure comfort plays a positive effect. From the medicinal viewpoint,it is obvious that excessive clothing pressure will be harmful to human′s health.So,fabric and clothing should be so designed that they satisfy the needs of man′s fundamental action.The study on pressure comfort of clothing is a relative new field.This paper discusses the research scope of clothing pressure comfort,the principle of clothing pressure formation and the relationship between fitting and clothing comfort.Furthermore,it describes the subjective and objective methods of evaluating the garment pressure comfort,and the progress of research on this area at home and broad.The significance and foreground of this research topic are also analyzed.
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    Cited: Baidu(48)
    Fabrication and oil absorbency of superhydrophobic and elastic silk fibroin fibrils aerogel
    YANG Qiliang, YANG Haiwei, WANG Dengfeng, LI Changlong, ZHANG Lele, WANG Zongqian
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (09): 1-10.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220408901
    Abstract376)   HTML110)    PDF(pc) (26590KB)(352)       Save

    Objective Silk fibroin (SF) aerogels prepared by conventional regeneration-dissolution process generally suffer from poor mechanical elasticity, resulting in weak oil absorption performance of the hydrophobically modified SF aerogels. This research aims to prepare highly elastic SF-based aerogels with excellent oil absorption properties for practical applications by using SF micro-nanofibrils (SMNF) aerogels as carriers, following the hydrophobic modification.

    Method The SMNF aerogels were fabricated by a freeze-induced assembly process using low-melting solvent liquid-phase exfoliated SMNF as precursors. Subsequently, the SMNF aerogel was hydrophobically modified by a methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) chemical vapor deposition strategy. The microstructure, element distribution and mechanical properties of MTMS modified SMNF (MS) aerogel were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, energy dispersive spectroscopy, infrared spectroscopy and universal material testing machine. Meanwhile, the oil absorbency of MS aerogel was systematically studied.

    Results The urea/guanidine hydrochloride deep eutectic solvent liquid-phase exfoliated SMNF retained the micro-nanoscale fibril structures of natural silk fibers (Fig.1), facilitating the construction of highly elastic SF aerogels. The resulting MS aerogel was characterized by hierarchical cellular architectures (Fig. 2), which endowed it with low density (5.36 mg/cm3) and high porosity (99.63%). The MS aerogel exhibited high compressi-bility (15.72 kPa at a strain of 80%) and superior fatigue resilience (over 81% relative height retention after 100 cycles) (Fig. 4). The results of energy dispersive spectroscopy and infrared spectroscopy confirmed that the siloxane network structures were formed on the aerogel surface after MTMS modification (Fig. 3), endowing SMNF aerogel with superhydrophobicity (water contact angle of 150.9°) (Fig. 5). Consequently, MS aerogels demonstrated strong absorption capacity for various oil agents with the oil absorption capacity of 84.48-188.75 g/g (Fig. 7). More importantly, owing to the high elasticity and stable skeleton structure, MS aerogel displayed excellent repeatable oil absorption performance (Fig. 8, Fig. 9).

    Conclusion Highly elastic and superhydrophobic MS aerogels were fabricated by urea/guanidine hydrochloride low eutectic solvent liquid phase exfoliation, freeze-induced assembly, and MTMS chemical vapor deposition modification. The assembled MS aerogels were characterized by hierarchical fibril networks and hierarchical cellular structures, which endowed MS aerogels with exceptional properties, including low density, high porosity and superelastic performance. Benefiting from the above features, the superelastic and superhydrophobic MS aerogel not only showed strong absorb ability to various oil agents, but also had excellent repeated oil absorption performance. This work provides a reliable approach for the fabrication of highly elastic and superhydrophobic SF aerogels and endows application prospects in oil absorption opportunities.

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    Research progress and development direction of surface hydrophilic modification of polyester fiber
    JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH    2015, 36 (08): 156-164.  
    Abstract548)      PDF(pc) (2320KB)(814)       Save

    Based on the hydrophilic modified principles and associated problems of polyester fiber, and combined with current commonly used hydrophilic modification methods, several areas of hydrophilic modification for polyester fiber surface were introduced: mainly included morphological structure modification on surface, grafting modification on surface, and finishing treatment with hydrophilic finishing agent. The modification of surface grafting is introduced emphatically, especially irradiated graft modification, and the mechanism of irradiation induced grafting is analyzed, and the measurements for improving the grafting yield of polyester are discussed. Base on the advantages and disadvantages of these methods, it points that the problems of hydrophilic modification for polyester fiber surface at present and the development orientation in the future, considering that ideal method of hydrophilic modified for polyester fiber should be without decreasing its original excellent performance, good durability, high economic efficiency, environment-friendly, and so on.

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    Research progress of aramid nanofiber aerogels
    LÜ Jing, LIU Zengwei, CHENG Qingqing, ZHANG Xuetong
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (06): 10-20.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230101602
    Abstract0)   HTML0)    PDF(pc) (16435KB)(342)       Save

    Significance Aerogels are synthetic solid nanomaterials formed by the replacement of liquid in a gel with gas. The continuous network structure renders aerogels with extraordinary properties, including ultralow density, super-high porosity, high specific surface area, low thermal conductivity, low optical refractive index and low dielectric constant. They have demonstrated tremendous potentials for various applications, such as thermal insulation, environmental protection and separation. However, in the development process of aerogels, there are still questions to be answered on development of new sol-gel transition principles and strategies, effectively control of macro morphology of aerogels, improvement of service performance, and expansion of the application field. As newly emerging aerogels, aramid aerogels utilized aramid nanofibers as building blocks have the potential to provide answers to the above-mentioned questions. In order to accelerate the development of aramid nanofiber aerogels from laboratory investigation to practical application and thus promote the development of the entire aerogel industry, the research status of aramid nanofiber aerogels are comprehensively reviewed in this paper.
    Progress The building blocks of aramid nanofiber aerogels need to be obtained. So far, various methods have been developed to prepare aramid nanofibers, which can be classified into "top-down" and "bottom-up" methods. The rheological behavior of aramid nanofiber dispersion shows significant shear thinning behavior. In addition, the dynamic stress scanning test reveals that the aramid nanofiber dispersion shows elastic behavior in a certain stress range. These distinguishing features indicate that the aramid nanofiber dispersion can be processed through wet spinning, blade coating, 3D printing, and so on. Therefore, aramid aerogel fibers have been prepared via wet spinning or relevant spinning method, such as liquid crystal spinning. During the fabrication process, novel dynamic sol-gel transition principles was proposed. The as-prepared aramid aerogel fibers were shown to possess nano-porous network structure and inherit excellent physical and chemical properties of aramid materials, demonstrating ultra-low thermal conductivity and excellent mechanical properties. Besides, the aramid aerogel fibers were further functionalized to render them with unique functions, such as hydrophobicity, absorbability, and electric conductivity. These aramid aerogel fibers demonstrated wide potential applications in the textile field, which can be woven into thermal insulation fabrics and smart thermal regulation fabrics. In terms of aramid aerogel films, the fabrication process includes blade/spin coating, sol-gel transition, and special drying process. The typical aerogel structure was found to bring about aramid aerogel films with high specific surface area and low thermal conductivity. The post-processing and functionalization were shown to further improve their mechanical properties and electric conductivity. These aramid aerogel films have demonstrated great application prospects in separation and filtration, electromagnetic shielding, infrared stealth, thermal management, and so on. In addition, direct-ink-writing 3D printing and microgel-directed suspended 3D printing strategies were developed to fabricate 3D aramid aerogels. These printing technologies enable aramid aerogels with arbitrary shape realized. Thus, the mechanical or thermal insulation performances can be customized through simple structural design.
    Conclusion and Prospect In view of the current urgent demand for high-performance aerogel materials, the research on aramid nanofiber aerogels will remain a research focus. By analyzing the research situation about the preparation, performance and application of aramid aerogel fibers, aramid aerogel films and 3D printed aramid aerogels, it can be confirmed that the development stage of aramid nanofiber aerogels is still in the initial exploration stage. On the one hand, the preparation technology of aramid nanofiber aerogel is not yet mature, and it needs to integrate deeply with traditional fiber, film or 3D printing technologies. There are many key points that need to be improved urgently, such as continuous solvent replacement, drying and other processes. The ultimate performances of aramid nanofiber aerogels have not been reached, and there is still room for improvement in mechanical properties. Therefore, it is necessary to further research on aramid nanofiber aerogels, optimize their preparation technologies, improve their performances, and reduce their production costs, so as to widen applications in thermal management, intelligent protection, separation, filtration and other fields.

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    Research progress on flame-retardation and multi-functionalization of textiles
    XU Yingjun, WANG Fang, NI Yanpeng, CHEN Lin, SONG Fei, WANG Yuzhong
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (02): 1-9.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211203809
    Abstract1077)   HTML110)    PDF(pc) (16169KB)(887)       Save

    Most textiles are highly flammable and often bring fire hazards. It is thus of great significance for improving flame retardancy of fabrics. Differentiation and functionalization of fabrics have become the mainstreams in both academic and industrial communities. However, flame-retardant multifunctional fabrics with well-balanced performance (e.g., softness, air permeability, comfort, and drape) have been rarely reported. Designing of functional monomers and additives with coordinated functions and then incorporating them into the fabric system via efficient technologies can be the keys to obtaining flame-retardant multifunctional fabrics. This paper presents work focusing on flame-retardant multifunctional fabrics. Some approaches towards coordination and cooperation among the multiple functions of the fabrics were discussed, and intrinsically flame-retardant and anti-dripping multifunctional polyester were introduced. Flame-retardant antibacterial, anti-corrosion, and water/oil-proof cotton and viscose fabrics, and polyester/cotton blend fabrics via surface treatments were highlighted. In addition, a brief prospect on the opportunities and challenges of the fields was provided, aiming for guiding the development of high-quality flame-retardant multifunctional fabrics.

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    Research progress of lignocellulosic multifunctional materials
    KONG Weiqing, HU Shufeng, YU Senlong, ZHOU Zhe, ZHU Meifang
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (04): 1-9.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220102509
    Abstract1416)   HTML253)    PDF(pc) (23225KB)(1029)       Save

    The unique material structure, pronounced anisotropy, good mechanical properties, and micro/nano channels of nature wood endow the wood material with many remarkable properties, providing opportunities for the design of functional materials. In order to improve the utilization and high value transformation of lignocellulose, this review summarized the development of lignocellulose functional materials in view of the structure and the physical/chemical properties of lignocellulose. The effects of structural design and regulation on the properties of lignocellulosic functional materials were scrutinized. The research progress in using lignocellulosic multifunctional fiber materials as structural lightweight materials, biodegradable materials, nanofluids/energy materials, biological materials and textile materials in recent years was reviewed, and the challenges were discussed. The future development direction is proposed to provide theoretical basis and technical support for the high value transformation of lignocellulose and its modern application.

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    Study on molding  types and development of horse-face skirt in modern times
    Yi
    JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH    2014, 35 (4): 110-0.  
    Abstract1188)      PDF(pc) (1491KB)(792)       Save
    Based on the research into various kinds of Chinese horse-face skirt collected in the Folk Costume Exhibition and Learning Hall of Jiangnan University and Shanghai Yifengtang Museum, this research is to describe and analyze the structure and the tailor technology of the hundred-pleat skirt, Striped skirt and the phoenix-tail skirt in the early republic of China. It points out that the garment sculpting from loose type with more pleats to fit type with less pleats, the pattern from a over-elaborate skirt cut in many pieces to a simple skirt cut in four pieces, the tailoring from the traditional two-dimensional molding to western three-dimensional ways., Based on the research into various kinds of Chinese horse-face skirt collected in the Folk Costume Exhibition and Learning Hall of Jiangnan University and Shanghai Yifengtang Museum, this research is to describe and analyze the structure and the tailor technology of the hundred-pleat skirt, Striped skirt and the phoenix-tail skirt in the early republic of China. It points out that the garment sculpting from loose type with more pleats to fit type with less pleats, the pattern from a over-elaborate skirt cut in many pieces to a simple skirt cut in four pieces, the tailoring from the traditional two-dimensional molding to western three-dimensional ways.
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    Comparison of hypsometry and goniometry in contact angle measurement
    DU Wenqin;WU Yingzhu
    JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH    2007, 28 (7): 29-32.  
    Abstract1223)      PDF(pc) (221KB)(1736)       Save
    It is more precise to characterize the repellency of the fabric by contact angle.The method of measuring the contact angles between a droplet and fabric is one of the most commonly methods,whereas hypsometry and goniometry are most commonly used methods in the measurement of an angle.It is found through actual tests that these two methods results in larger measurement error,and its cause remains unknown yet.In this paper,the principle and error of these two methods were analyzed and compared theoretically.Meanwhile,the measurement error of contact angles caused by the measurement error of droplet height,the bottom diameter of droplet and the turning error of protractor were discussed.Verification experiments were performed and the results obtained are coincident with the theory.Finally,hypsometry is proved to be more precise,faster and more convenient.
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    Cited: Baidu(40)
    Review on thermal-drawn multimaterial fiber optoelectronics
    ZHANG Jing, HUANG Zhiheng, NIU Guangliang, LIANG Sheng, YANG Lüyun, WEI Lei, ZHOU Shifeng, HOU Chong, TAO Guangming
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (01): 11-20.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220606310
    Abstract485)   HTML49)    PDF(pc) (8985KB)(389)       Save

    Significance With the rapid development of textile engineering and material science, intelligent fibers and related fabrics have become the preferred carriers for wearable electronics with their advantages in softness, lightness, and breathability. A variety of fiber manufacturing technologies has been developed, enabling conventional fibers with new capabilities such as environmental/physical/chemical sensing, logical computing, human-machine interaction, and so on. Among these manufacturing techniques, the thermal drawing process can be adopted to fabricate multimaterial optoelectronic fibers, providing an innovative research for intelligent fibers and fabrics. By enriching fiber structures, materials and post-treatment techniques, thermal-drawn fibers can be integrated with multiple functions such as multi-parameter sensing, temperature regulation, and information interaction, broadening the application scenarios of fibers.
    Progress Thermal-drawn multimaterial optoelectronic fibers are generally drawn from fiber preforms with a fiber drawing tower. The external forms, internal structures, and materials of fiber preforms can all be designed with great flexibility according to the applications and functions. The diameters of fibers are typically in the micron range, and the structures of the fibers are consistent with the preform rods. In addition, fiber post-treatment techniques, such as thermal treatment and cold-drawing process, can further enrich and modify the structures, giving more ways to improve the functionalities of fibers.
    With these advanced fiber drawing and processing technologies, micro- and nano-structured fibers can be achieved. For example, a low-loss CO2 laser-propagated photonic bandgap fiber has been achieved with a hollow core surrounded by a solid multilayer structure of high refractive-index contrast. The fiber has a large photonic bandgap and omnidirectional reflectivity. Nanowires, structural micro- and nanospheres, nanorods, and porous fibers have also been produced in a scalable way by the in-fiber fluid instability phenomena, cold-drawing deformation, and salt leaching techniques. Moreover, surface micro-nano imprinting technology has been utilized to construct specific fibers with micro/nano-surface patterns.
    The richness of structures and materials gives fibers a variety of advanced functionalities, such as sensing, energy management, neural probing, and information interaction. For sensing, the thermal-drawn fibers have been achieved with acoustic, photoelectric, strain, and chemical sensing. For energy management, fiber-based devices are enabled with the functions of passive temperature regulation and energy generation/storage. Thermal-drawn fibers have also been widely used as neural probes because of their flexibility, small size, and conductive property. In addition, semiconductor diodes and integrated circuits have been integrated into thermal-drawn fibers successfully, which empowers the fibers with the abilities of logical computing and information interaction.
    Conclusion and Prospect This work focuses on the research progress and application fields of thermal-drawn multimaterial fiber, reviews the regulation of the micro/nanostructures inside the fibers by thermal drawing, and discusses their applications in sensing, energy, biology and others with recent studies.
    However, there are still some limitations to thermal-drawn multimaterial fiber optoelectronics. 1) Only a few of materials and structures are investigated and applied into the system. 2) The mechanical properties and comfort of wearing of thermal-drawn fibers need to be improved. 3) It is still difficult to integrate multiple functions into one fiber. 4) The abilities of logical calculation and data management of the thermal-drawn fibers should be enhanced.
    The future research trends of thermal-drawn multimaterial optoelectronic fibers are discussed from five aspects: more material selection, complex fiber structure, textile processing, multi-function integration, and artificial intelligence. It is foreseen that current mono-functional thermal-drawn multimaterial optoelectronic fibers can be improved for higher integrations, better mechanical properties, and more intelligence. These advanced fibers can also be combined with conventional textiles to enable their functionalities, comfort of wearing, and applicability to scenarios.

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    Primary properties of basalt continuous filament
    CUI Yi-hua
    JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH    2005, 26 (5): 120-121.  
    Abstract1079)      PDF(pc) (95KB)(1234)       Save
    The composition,physical and chemical properties of basalt continuous filament are investigated,providing a reference basis for developing a new generation of industrial textiles.
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    Cited: Baidu(68)
    Micro morphology and inclusion mechanism of the fragrance microcapsule of β-cyclodextrin
    Micro morphology and inclusion mechanism of the fragrance microcapsule of β-cyclodextrin
    JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH    2005, 26 (6): 22-24.  
    Abstract1187)      PDF(pc) (225KB)(1137)       Save
    β-cyclodextrin molecules can form complexes with fragrance oils such as lavender,rosemary,and santalum to obtain fragrance microcapsule which possesses of the property of controlling fragrance-release rate.Since β-cyclodextrin has no any side effect to the human body and is environmentally friendly,its fragrance microcapsule can impart fragrance to textile and is safe.The micro morphology of microcapsule was rhombus and pin crystals observed by UV-M optical microscope and SEM.The mechanism of inclusion preparation was proved by IR.Meanwhile,the forming process of fragrance microcapsule was analyzed from the viewpoint of thermodynamics and solution degree.
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    Cited: Baidu(17)
    Current status and prospect of intelligent development in textile industry
    ZHENG Xiaohu, LIU Zhenghao, CHEN Feng, ZHANG Jie, WANG Junliang
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (08): 205-216.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220305802
    Abstract280)   HTML49)    PDF(pc) (8758KB)(273)       Save

    Significance With the start of a new round of technological revolution and industrial advancement, China's textile industry has stepped into a new stage of high-quality development. This paper provides a comprehensive overview of the development and application of artificial intelligence technology in the textile industry and explores the tasks and goals of future intelligent development. Based on the latest global developments in digitalization, networking, and intelligence in the textile industry, it analysed the current technical challenges and summarised the key technologies urgently needed in the textile industry. Typical application cases and production models were introduced such as whole-process intelligent textile production lines, intelligent operation and maintenance of textile equipment, and intelligent textile testing. The core technological challenges facing the Chinese textile industry and the development directions of the industrial ecology were to be reviewed. Ideas on developing a new generation of textile-intelligent manufacturing systems and creating an intelligent textile ecology with the collaboration of the whole industrial chain were presented.

    Progress At this stage, the Chinese textile industry intelligent manufacturing is in a critical period of digital, networked, and intelligent development (Fig. 1). The critical technologies related to the intelligence of the textile industry are developing rapidly, and big-data technology for the whole textile production process is being applied rapidly (Fig. 2). Digital-twin technology in the textile industry is applied to intelligent garment design and intelligent textile factories (Fig. 3 and Fig. 4). As automated equipment replaces manual labor in typical textile processes, robots in the textile industry have become an essential part of intelligent production. Machine vision technology based on deep learning plays a role in the intelligent control of textile equipment and intelligent inspection of textile quality scenarios (Fig. 5). Intelligent scheduling technology based on machine learning effectively improves the production efficiency of textile enterprises. Based on these technologies, typical examples of intelligent applications in the textile industry have emerged. A data-driven intelligent operation and maintenance system for high-speed winders (Fig. 6), enables data-based intelligent fault diagnosis and remaining life prediction of equipment. The "edge-cloud" collaborative fabric defect detection system enables the detection and identification of a wide range of fabric defects. Xinfengming Group realizes the intelligence of the whole production chain based on 5G and product identification resolution technology (Fig. 7). Wuhan Yudahua's 100000-spindle full-process intelligent spinning line solves the discontinuity problem between some of the ring spinning processes, with an automation rate of over 95% (Fig. 8).

    Conclusion and Prospect China's textile industry has made a breakthrough in digitalizing equipment, networking, and workshop intelligence. Significant progress has been made in improving quality and efficiency and optimizing the industrial structure. However, a series of standards system for intelligent manufacturing in the textile industry has yet to be established. In the field of cotton spinning, for example, there are still breakpoints in the automated production of the whole process. The quality traceability of the whole process of product production needs to be strengthened. Data processing and other software are primarily selected from general software developed by information technology developers, which is challenging to meet the precise professional needs of spinning enterprises. The core equipment and industrial software in the field of textiles have not yet formed the technical support capacity, from the true meaning of "intelligent" still has a large gap. The intelligent textile ecology of the whole industrial chain needs to be established. Developing a new generation of intelligent textile manufacturing systems should be based on the study of intelligent textile process, intelligent textile equipment as the focus of development, and intelligent equipment collaboration as the core. At the same time, through the construction of a textile innovative factory demonstration production model, the development of critical technologies of the textile industry Internet, the construction of a blockchain-based networked collaborative rapid response service system, the creation of the whole industry chain collaborative textile intelligent ecology, improve the rapid response service capacity, to achieve the development of the textile industry multi-cluster synergy.

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    Electroactive fibrous materials for intelligent wearable textiles
    FANG Jian, REN Song, ZHANG Chuanxiong, CHEN Qian, XIA Guangbo, GE Can
    Journal of Textile Research    2021, 42 (09): 1-9.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210506809
    Abstract1856)   HTML330)    PDF(pc) (6273KB)(1238)       Save

    To foster the development of smart fibrous materials and intelligent wearable textiles, a detailed overview on electroactive fibrous materials for intelligent wearable textiles was carried in this study. This paper summarized the state-of-the-art of fiber-based and fabric-based intelligent wearable textiles in recent years. Definitions, common preparation methods, development process, and the latest research progress in electroactive fibers were examined and their properties and application fields were systematically classified and discussed from the perspectives of strain sensing, electrochromic, intelligent temperature regulation, energy harvesting and storage, and so on. Future development and problems hindering the use of electroactive fibrous materials in intelligent wearable textiles were highlighted. The future development direction was pointed out for theoretical and technical references in the hope to promote the wide range of applications of electroactive fibrous materials in future intelligent wearable textiles.

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    Preparation and properties of poly(butylene succinate)/silk sericin blend fiber
    XIA Yu, YAO Juming, ZHOU Jie, MAO Menghui, ZHANG Yumei, YAO Yongbo
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (04): 1-7.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211111107
    Abstract295)   HTML806)    PDF(pc) (4552KB)(270)       Save

    Objective Poly (butylene succinate) (PBS) is a synthetic biodegradable polymer and silk sericin is a natural biodegradable polymer. PBS fiber can be prepared by melt spinning process, which is applied in textile industry as raw material. Silk sericin can be used as moisturizer in skincare and textile industries. To improve the skin-friendliness of PBS fiber, PBS and silk sericin was mixed by melt blending, then the blend fiber was prepared by melt spinning process.
    Method After vacuum drying at 80 ℃ for 4 h, the PBS and silk sericin were melt blended using an internal mixer at the rotation rate of 60 r/min for 25 min. The mixing temperature of the PBS/silk sericin blends was set to 140 ℃, and the weight ratio of PBS/silk sericin is shown in Tab. 1. After that, the PBS/silk sericin blend fibers were spun through a single-screw extruder at 160 ℃. Then, the fiber was cooled in a water bath at room temperature. The extrusion speed was 1.95 g/min, the drawing speed was 3.60 m/min, and the draw ratio was 4.
    Results The scanning electron microscopy (SEM) of the cross-section of the PBS/silk sericin blend fiber is shown in Fig. 1. The rough cross-section of PBS/silk sericin blend fiber indicates poor compatibility between PBS and silk sericin. There were small voids on the cross-section of the blend fibers, the number of voids would increase with the rise of silk sericin mass fraction. The XRD pattern of PBS/silk sericin blend fiber is shown in Fig. 3 and the crystallinity of PBS is listed in Tab. 2. With the increase of silk sericin mass fraction, the crystallinity of the blend fiber decreases. It seems that the crystallization process of PBS was obstructed by the dispersion of silk sericin in the fiber. The mechanical property of PBS/silk sericin blend fiber is shown in Fig. 4. Tensile strength and elongation at break of the blend fiber decrease when the silk sericin mass fraction increases, and the elongation at break of PBS fiber is 212.1%. However, for the blend fiber when the mass fraction of silk sericin became 15%, the elongation at break of was only 8.9%, this value meets the requirement of textile requirement. Hence, the overlarge elongation at break of PBS fiber can be reduced with the existence of silk sericin. The saturated moisture regains of the PBS/silk sericin blend fibers is shown in Fig. 6. It can be found that the saturated moisture regain of the blend fiber is improved with the increase of silk sericin mass fraction. For the blend fiber when the silk sericin mass fraction is 15%, the saturated moisture regain is 3.90%. This value is similar to the saturated moisture regain of polyamide 6 fiber (saturated moisture regain is 3.95%) with good hydrophilic property. The improved saturated moisture regain of the blend fiber is not only related to the hydrophilic group of silk sericin, but also associated with the increase of amorphous region area in the blend fiber. The weight loss rate of PBS/silk sericin blend fibers after soil burial test is shown in Fig. 7. The weight loss rate of the blend fiber after 6 weeks during the soil burial test is up to 53.6%. When silk sericin is degraded by microorganisms firstly, the specific surface area increases, which is beneficial to the contact between PBS and microorganisms. Then, the degradation rate of PBS is also accelerated.
    Conclusion In this research, the PBS/silk sericin blend fibers were prepared by melt spinning method. The effect of PBS/silk sericin weight ratio on the morphology, mechanical strength and biodegradability was studied. The main findings are as follows,the small voids can be found on the cross-section of the PBS/silk sericin blend fibers, which is related to the weak interface force between PBS and silk sericin. For the PBS/silk sericin blend fiber when the mass fraction of silk sericin is 15%, the elongation at break is 8.9%, the saturated moisture regain is 3.90%. By contrast, the elongation at break of PBS fiber is 212.1%, the saturated moisture regain is 2.26%. The existence of silk sericin not only reduces the overlarge elongation at break of PBS fiber, but also improves the hydrophilic property. For the PBS/silk sericin blend fiber when the mass fraction of silk sericin is 15%, the weight loss rate after 6 weeks during the soil burial test is up to 53.6%. The biodegradability of PBS/silk sericin blend fiber of PBS is better than that of PBS fiber. Hence, the PBS/silk sericin blend fiber degrades quickly after use.

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    Progress in the research for clothing functions
    LI Hongyan;ZHANG Weiyuan
    JOURNAL OF TEXTILE RESEARCH    2007, 28 (8): 117-119.  
    Abstract1056)      PDF(pc) (113KB)(1160)       Save
    This paper reviews the research for clothing functions based on the body-clothing-environment system theory,including clean-keeping,safety protection and climate regulating.It analyses the main factors influencing clothing functions and their acting rules from clothing hygiene,human physiology,psychology,clothing materials,and environmental engineering.It addresses the research history, progress and significance,test method,and design standards of clothing functions at home and broad,along with the existing problems and developing trend.
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    Cited: Baidu(15)
    Comparative style of ethnic groups' batik patterns in Southwest China
    Journal of Textile Research    2016, 37 (4): 101-106.  
    Abstract862)      PDF(pc) (1982KB)(483)       Save

    Taking the batik of the ethnic minorities in Southwest China as an example, the paper studies the style and difference of the batik patterns. Which contuebutes to a comprehensive understanding of China's ethnic batik, then carries on the effective inheritance and development. Pattern is the minority batik label, in thes paper, and Miao, Yao, Buyi ethnic minorities' traditional batik patterns style is the main object of study. It makes the comparative study of similarities and differences between the batik pattern style of ethnic groups from the patterns of color, subject matter and composition. It indicates that the national traditional batik pattern colors are related to the traditional blue and white color, mixing with red, yellow and other color, while the difference is the color expression; each ethnic batik paterns theme has the different emphasis with their themes of the nature, geometry and two phase; Miao emphasizes in using composition techniques of symmetry and equilibrium. Yao is clear and simple differ