纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (11): 155-160.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20181200806

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

基于人体曲面变化的服装几何空间设计

刘佟()   

  1. 成都纺织高等专科学校 服装学院, 四川 成都 611731
  • 收稿日期:2018-12-05 修回日期:2019-06-27 出版日期:2019-11-15 发布日期:2019-11-26
  • 作者简介:刘佟(1977—),男,讲师,学士。主要研究方向为女装设计与成衣创意立裁。E-mail: 407740058@qq.com
  • 基金资助:
    四川省教育厅科研项目(14ZB0325)

Design of garment geometric space based on changes of human body surface

LIU Tong()   

  1. Department of Garment, Chengdu Textile College, Chengdu, Sichuan 611731, China
  • Received:2018-12-05 Revised:2019-06-27 Online:2019-11-15 Published:2019-11-26

摘要:

为拓宽女装设计在空间造型上的创新思路,以服装空间变化作为切入点,结合实例,将人体曲面与特定造型的几何式结构服装进行分解,寻找二者在平面与立体空间关系中的结构联系,提出服装几何空间设计的概念。根据款式造型与结构分析的结果,通过构成元素在几何平面纸样中的不同变化,形成服装空间的二次构成,研究了人体与服装在不同空间关系形成过程中的设计规律,归纳了3种服装几何空间设计方法。通过在特定款式纸样变化中的运用,将立体构成与平面纸样技术结合,满足了服装的个性化设计需求。

关键词: 服装设计, 人体曲面, 平面纸样, 几何空间, 造型设计

Abstract:

In order to broaden the innovative thinking of women's clothing design in space modeling, the change of clothing space was taken as an entry point and examples were combined to decompose the body surface with the geometric structure clothing of a specific shape and find the structural connection between the two in the relationship between plane and three-dimensional space. The concept of geometric space design of clothing was proposed. According to the results of style modeling and structure analysis, through the different changes in the composition elements in the geometric plane pattern, the secondary composition of the clothing space was formed, and the design rules of the human body and clothing in the formation of different spatial relationships were studied. Three kinds of geometric space design methods were summarized, and the three-dimensional composition was combined with the planar pattern technology to meet the personalized needs of clothing through the application of specific styles.

Key words: garment design, human body surface, plane pattern, geometric space, modeling design

中图分类号: 

  • TS941.2

图1

人体曲面结构分解图 BL—胸围水平线;WL—腰围水平线,HL—臀围水平线。"

图2

几何平面展开图"

图3

平面到空间的二次构成"

图4

点的空间构成"

图5

线的空间构成"

图6

面的空间构成"

图7

异形空间转换"

图8

强化凸面空间"

图9

开口的外空间延展"

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