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Journal of Textile Research
(Started in 1979,Monthly)
Authority in Charge: China Association for Science and Technology
Sponsor: China Textile Engineering Society
Edited and Published by: Periodical Agency of Journal of Textile Research
ISSN 0253-9721
CN 11-5167/TS
Table of Content
15 May 2019, Volume 40 Issue 05
  • Structure and formaldehyde adsorption properties of modified pineapple leaf fiber
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  1-6.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180607806
    Abstract ( 7 )   PDF (1879KB) ( 8 )   Save
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    In order to obtain high-absorption textile materials, the modified materials of degummed pineapple leaf fiber were prepared by esterification reaction using degummed pineapple leaf fiber as an adsorption carrier and hemin as modifier. The structure of the fiber was characterized by scanning electron microscopy, Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffractometer, surface area and porosimetry analyzer, and the formaldehyde adsorption properties were also studied. The results show that the surface of the modified fiber is grafted with hemin. It has the crystal structure of cellulose I. The relative crystallinity is decreased from 69. 3% to 66. 2%. The N2 adsorption isotherm belongs to type III adsorption. The modified fibers have a small number of mesopores and macropores with pore size ranged from 2. 0 to 276. 1 nm. The specific surface area, nitrogen adsorption and hysteresis loop are all decreased after modification. The modified degummed pineapple leaf fiber has better formaldehyde adsorption performance than the unmodified fiber. The formaldehyde adsorption capability of modified fiber decreases with the increase of the initial formaldehyde concentration, and increases with the increase of fiber dosage, reaction temperature and reaction time.

    Synthesis and properties of antibacterial polyacrylonitrile nanofiber membrane
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  7-11.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180307005
    Abstract ( 7 )   PDF (1703KB) ( 6 )   Save
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    In order to prepare refractory antibacterial N-halamine polymer and apply in antibacterial polyacrylonitrile nanofiber membrane, 5,5-dimethylhydantoin(DMH) was selected to synthesize 3-(4′- vinylbenzyl)-5,5-dimethylhydantoin (VBDMH). Then BDMH and methyl methacrylate (MMA) were polymerized to synthesize an antibacterial N-halamine polymer precusor. And antibacterial polyacrylonitrile nanofiber membrane was prepared from the polymer and polyacrylonitrile by mixing and lectrospinning. Scanning electron microscopy. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, nuclear magnetic resonance and element analysis were adopts to characterize and analyze the polymer precusor and antibacterial polyacrylonitrile nanofiber membrane. The results showed that the diameter distribution of polymer obtained by emulsion polymerization is uniform, and the dispersion degree is low. The antibacterial test results show that the antibacterial nanofiber membrane can cause the inactivation of S.aureus and E. coli within 30 min. And the antibacterial property is improved by 20%-50%, compared with the original membrane.

    Preparation and properties of poly(3-hydroxybutyrate-co-3-hydroxyl valerate) / polylactic acid flame retardant fibers
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  12-17.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180605906
    Abstract ( 4 )   PDF (1829KB) ( 1 )   Save
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    In order to prepare the biodegradable fiber with flame retardant property, poly(3-hydroxybutyrate- co-3-hydroxyl valerate)(PHBV), poly(lactic acid)(PLA) and ammonium polyph osphate(APP) were melt blended, then PHBV/ PLA/ APP composite fiber was prepared by melt spinning. The thermal property, heat stability, tensile property and flame retardant properties of PHBV/ PLA/ APP composite fiber were tested. The results show that the addition of APP has no significant effect on the cool crystallization temperature and melting temperature of PHBV/ PLA. With the increasing of APP mass fraction, thermal stability and carbon yield of PHBV/ PLA composite are improved. With the increasing of draft ratio, the breaking strength of PHBV/ PLA/ APP composite fiber is enhanced. The breaking strength of PHBV/ PLA/ APP composite fiber is firstly increased then decreased with the addition of APP. When the APP mass fraction is 5%, the breaking strength reaches the peak value. Meanwhile, with the increasing of APP mass fraction, the flame retardant property of the composite fiber is improved. When the APP mass fraction is 10%, the flame retardant effect is optimum, the value of limit oxygen index is 32.3%, the flame retardant class is V-0, and no molten drop phenomenon occurs in burning process.

    Structure and liquid retention properties of polyethylene glycol / polypropylene melt blown nonwoven with bionic vein networks
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  18-23.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180503207
    Abstract ( 4 )   PDF (2211KB) ( 4 )   Save
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    In order to study the bionic vein networks structure and liquid retention properties of polyethylene glycol (PEG) / polypropylene (PP) melt blown nonwovens, the microfiber nonwovens were prepared from PEG and PP blends by melt blowing. The structure including fiber diameter distribution, the quantity density of different diameter fibers, and properties of evaporation rate and retention capacity were investigated. The results show that three kinds of fibers with diameter of smaller than 800 nm, 800- 2 000 nm and larger than 2 000 nm are staggered in horizontal direction, forming three level branching networks with asymmetric characteristics. Third branched networks composed of fibers smaller than 800 nm can be adjusted by increasing the PEG ratio and die temperature. The special length is linearly and positively correlated with the die temperature. The evaporation rate of the samples with bionic vein networks accord with the law of textile materials, showing that with the increasing of PEG ratio from 0% to 15%, the liquid retention capacity decreases from 1 938. 3% to 1 313. 1%.

    Influence of multistage drawing and heat setting on structure and properties of polyethylene / polypropylene bicomponent fibers
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  24-29.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180501506
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    In order to study the dimension and mechanical stability of polyethylene/ polypropylene (PE/ PP) bicomponent fibers prepared by the nonwoven spunlaid process, PE/ PP bicomponent fiber samples were taken at different key process positions. The structure and properties of the fibers were measured by X-ray diffractometer, electronic single fiber strength tester, scanning electron microscope, and BEION fiber fineness test system. The results show that the degree of orientation and crystallinity of fiber gradually increase in the multistage drawing process, and the second stage drawing in the post-spinning process plays a major role in the orientation and crystallinity of fiber. The dimensional stability of fiber is not determined without heat setting, and the dry heat shrinkage is high. The mechanical properties of fiber after multistage drawing and heat setting are significantly improved, and the maximum breaking strength can reach 3. 38 cN/ dtex. The increase of heat setting temperature improves the dimensional stability of the fiber, and the heat setting temperature during preparation should not lower than 110 ℃.

    Spinning mechanism of two-color transformation segment color yarns and influencing factors on length and breaking tenacity of blend fragment
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  30-35.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.201806002
    Abstract ( 8 )   PDF (2136KB) ( 7 )   Save
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    In order to spin the two-color transformation segment color yarn with constant linear density, and find out the influencing factors of the length and strength of the blend fragment, the yarns were spun by a double-channel ring spining machine with an improved compact device. Meanwhile, the length was measured by artificial recognition based on the image acquisition device. The forming mechanism of the blend fragment was analyzed. The intluence of the break draft and the roving feeding advance on the length and strength of the blend fragment were investigated. The results show that the mean length of the blend fragments increases with the increase of roving feeding advance, and decreases with the increase of break draft; and the yarn breaking tenacity also increases with the increase of roving feeding advance. When the break draft is 1. 7, the yarn has the max breaking tenacity.

    Design principle and method of texture effect in jacquard fabric based on full-color compound structure
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  36-40.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180301506
    Abstract ( 6 )   PDF (2317KB) ( 2 )   Save
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    In order to endue the jacquard fabric based on full-color compound structure with outstand texture effect, two types of combination weaves including honeycomb and mock leno were employed as basic weaves to create series of derivative weaves by increasing the repeat number in three different directions, and thus fabric samples were produced under the condition of high density. By means of the comparative analysis on fabric texture effect, it is shown that the increasing of the weave repeat number can strengthen the emboss texture effect of fabric samples using honeycomb weaves and visual texture effect of mock leno. Application design case further evidences that the proposed design method solves the problem of interwoven balance between the full-color compound structure and the texture weaves, and creates different gradient levels of fabric texture weaves for the jacquard fabric, and it provides inspiring references for the creative design of jacquard fabrics based on full-color compound structure with abundant fabric texture effect.

    Principle and application of partial knitting on fully formed sweater
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  41-46.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180600706
    Abstract ( 6 )   PDF (1931KB) ( 1 )   Save
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    In order to better realize the partial three-dimensional forming of fully formed sweater, the application of the partial knitting principle on fully formed sweater based on the four-bed computerized flat knitting machine and design system of SDS-ONE APPEX 3 was researched emphatically. The partial knitting process was divided into normal partial knitting and partial knitting in proportion according to the knitting methods. The application of partial knitting in shoulder slope, neck, lower hem, hanging shoulder and flat sleeve top was discussed. The results show that the normal partial knitting can be applied to form the oblique line shape with smooth and smooth outer edge, front and back neck drop curve, irregular lower hem. The partial knitting in proportion is the unique knitting method of fully formed sweater. It is mainly applied in the process of hanging shoulder and flat sleeve top. It is applied to maintain a tubular balance and realize the connection of sleeves and body and a tube fabric with a certain height difference is formed at last. The adoption of partial knitting technology can improve the comfort and beauty of fully formed sweater, and also provide ideas for the design development of sweater, so as to meet the personalized needs of contemporary consumers.

    Matrix model and generation algorithm of regular angle-interlock weave
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  47-52.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180104706
    Abstract ( 11 )   PDF (1774KB) ( 19 )   Save
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    In order to improve design efficiency of angle-interlock, the interlacing rule of angle-interlock weave without filling and with filling warp yarns were analyzed, and the relationship between weave parameters and interlacing rule was established. The matrix model of angle-interlock weave and generation algorithm were built. The element relationship between column vectors of matrix model on no filling warp yarns and its generation algorithm were established. Then an algorithm for generating regular angleinterlock with filling warp yarns was established by matrix embedding method. The results show that the relative matrix can be generated by inputting weft layers with the algorithm. The regular angle-interlock weave can be produced rapidly, and the design efficiency can be improved by presented matrix model and its generation algorithm.

    Structural damage identification of intelligent composite materials based on principal component analysis
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  53-58.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180503006
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    Aiming at the key problems in monitoring the structural state of three-dimensional braided composites, a method to build three-dimensional space-structured intelligent composite material was developed by embedding carbon nanotube yarns into the overall composites based on the threedimensional six-directional braiding process. The damage index was adopte to realize the identification of the internal damage type of the intelligent composite specimen. For the internal damage of threedimensional six-directional braided composite materials, four damage index performance characteristics were analyzed. Experiments show that combined damage index is better than the other three damage indexes and combined damage index can accurately identify the type of damage within the specimen. The three-dimensional braided composite material has small internal void damage and the combined damage index is less than 100. For internal crack damage of the composite specimen, combined damage index monitoring value is 300-500. When the combined damage index monitoring value is greater than 600, it can be judged that a large crack damage exists in the test specimens. Based on the damage index, the
    internal damage of the specimen can be calculated and the precision can reach 0. 073 mm.

    Numerical simulation of side compressive properties on glass fiber / epoxy resin sandwich composite
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  59-63.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180403405
    Abstract ( 7 )   PDF (2202KB) ( 3 )   Save
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    In order to reveal failure mechanism and failure mode of glass fiber/ epoxy resin sandwich composite under side compressive load, a meso-structural model was built by using the finite element software ANSYS, and numerical simulation of side compressive properties on the composite was analyzed emphasisly. The stress and strain distribution of the composite, fibers and resin was discussed under side compressive loads of 3 mm displacement by using the meso-structural model. The results show that when the composite is subjected to side compressive load, the maximum value of stress occurs on the upper and lower face-sheet macroscopically, where the composite is damaged easily. The minimum value of stress occurs on the piles, where the composite is hard to be damaged. Unstable failure easily occurs on the face-sheet between two rows piles, which is the main failure cause of the composite. The fibers play a major role in bearing, and the resin plays a minor role microscopically. The failure mode is the resin fracture, and the interfacial de-bonding between fibers and resin when the composite is loaded with 3 mm displacement compression.

    Preparation and properties of modified carbon black for dope dyeing of polylactic acid fiber
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  64-69.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180502106
    Abstract ( 6 )   PDF (1942KB) ( 1 )   Save
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    In order to solve the problem of deterioration of the mechanical properties caused by the poor compatibility between carbon black and polylactic acid in the dope dyeing process of polylactic acid fiber, polylactic acid modified carbon black was prepared by in-situ polymerization, which was then used in the dope dyeing of PLA. The effects of lactide dosage, reaction temperature, time and other factors on the particle size and particle size distribution of polylactic acid modified carbon black were explored, and the dispersion stability thereof in polylactic acid spinning solvent was tested. The polylactic acid spinning solution and the polylactic acid film added with the unmodified carbon black or the modified carbon black were analyzed and characterized. The results show that the modified carbon black has a minimum particle size (184. 2 nm) when the dosage of the lactide monomer is 1. 5 g, the polymerization time is 6 h, and the polymerization temperature is 70 ℃. The polylactic acid modified carbon black can be stably dispersed in polylactic acid spinning solvent, and has good compatibility with polylactic acid. Compared with unmodified carbon black, the mechanical properties of polylactic acid are improved after adding modified carbon black.

    In-situ synthesis of calcium carbonate from oleic acid and application there of in wet coating of polyamide
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  70-77.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180601108
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    In order to solve poor ink absorption and high pH value of polyamide coated fabric with calcium carbonate, novel calcium carbonate was prepared from oleic acid by in-situ synthesis. The effect of in situ synthesized calcium carbonate was evaluated by activation degree and sedimentation volume. The mechanism was investigated by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, X ray diffraction, scanning electron microscopy, transmission electron microscopy and thermogravimetric analysis. The in-situ synthesized calcium carbonate is used in the polyamide wet coating, the structure of the coating film and the ink absorption, mechanical properties and pH value of the coated fabric were investigated. The results show that when the content of oleic acid is 15% of the mass fraction of calcium carbonate, the in-situ synthesized calcium carbonate is the best in various properties, the activation degree is 99% and the sedimentation volume is 3. 95 mL. The in-situ synthesized calcium carbonate is used in wet polyamide coating, the contact angle of coating film decreases by 8. 29°, the ink length of coated fabric decreases by 10. 42 mm and the pH value decreases to 7. 27,the ink absorption increases, and the pH well meets the safety standards of textiles.

    Influence of process conditions on silver conductive lines by micro-droplet jet printing solution reaction
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  78-83.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180200806
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    In order to prepare flexible circuit with good electrical conductivity, the influence of the process conditions of droplet jet printing forming the chemical deposition on the performance of the formed conductive circuit was investigated. The double nozzle pneumatic micro-droplet injection system was applied by changing the concentration of two kinds of reaction solution, the concentration of PVP and the pH of the solution. Under the stable system to proceed wire jet printing, the microstructure produced under different conditions were observed and the square resistance were measured. The results shows that when the silver nitrate concentration and the ascorbic acid concentration are 50% and 30%, respectively, the average square resistance of the silver wire is 2. 92 Ω/ □, and the standard deviation is 0. 46 Ω/ □, PVP has the effect of controlling the size of silver particles and improving the agglomeration between particles during the reaction of silver conductive lines. When PVP content is 6%, the scanning electron microscopy images show that the silver particles are rice-like, and the connection between particles present a network structure. The reaction conditions vary with pH value, and when the pH value is 2 to 3, more silver particles are prepared and the grain shape is uniform.

    Influence of ink-jet printing pretreatment on fabric structures
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  84-90.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180503707
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    twill and honeycomb fabrics were selected as the research objects, and the same cold padbatch treatment, pretreatment and ink-jet printing were performed on the three fabrics. The roughness, thickness, porosity, color strength and outline sharpness of fabrics were measured. The influence of pretreatment on fabric structures and the relationship between fabric structures and color strength and outline sharpness were analyzed. The results show that the warp roughness, weft roughness, thickness, and porosity of the plain fabric are 6.4 μm, 9.1 μm, 0.65 mm and 85.5%, respectively. Those of the twill fabric are increased by 22%, 30%, 25% and 2.5% compared with those of the plain fabric, respectively. While those of the honeycomb fabric are increased by 50%, 53%, 150%, and 3.4% compared with those of the plain fabric, respectively. The warp roughness, weft roughness and porosity of plain, twill, and honeycomb fabrics after cold pad batching and pretreatment are reduced, but fabric thickness is increased. In addition, the plain fabrics exhibit the lightest color strength and the best outline sharpness, followed by twill and honeycomb fabrics, which display the darkest color strength and the
    worst outline sharpness after the same treatment.

    De-curling control of single-weft knitted fabric in open width pad-steam dyeing
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  91-96.  doi:10.13457/j.fzxb.20180603906
    Abstract ( 4 )   PDF (1764KB) ( 1 )   Save
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    The edges of single-weft knitted fabric was treated with paste to prevent the edges from curling during the open width pad-steam dyeing process. The sizing agents and their coating applied ways were optimized by comparing the curling rates and washing durability during open-width wet processing. As a result, the polyacrylate-polyurethane was used as a sizing agent. The suitable processes for medium weight and thick knitted fabric are as follows: the serrated coating is applied along the grain direction on the reverse side of fabrics, and the thickness of the coating reaches 0. 2 mm. The width of the coating is no less than 2 cm. The results show that the method can effectively control the curling of the knitted fabric in the open width pad-steam dyeing process and has no effect on the dyeing performance.

    Antistatic properties of UV-reduced graphene oxide acrylic fabrics
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  97-101.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180501905
    Abstract ( 8 )   PDF (1595KB) ( 6 )   Save
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    Aiming at the tendency of acrylic fabrics to generate static electricity during wearing, a conventional process was utilized to impregnate acrylic fabrics into graphene oxide (GO) solution. The acrylic fabrics were hot pressed followed by UV light irradiation to reduce graphene oxide on the surface for imparting acrylic fabrics to antistatic properties. The surface microscopic morphology of acrylic fibers was characterized by scanning electron microscopy. The influence of temperature on the color performances of acrylic fabrics was investigated. The antistatic properties of the fabrics were discussed based on the surface electrical resistivity of the acrylic fabrics. The results show that acrylic fabrics impregnated around 90 ℃ possesses a higher adsorption capacity. The final surface electrical resistivity of the acrylic fabrics after UV light reduction is 13 kΩ·cm and the square resistance is 1.9 kΩ/ □, which meets antistatic performance standards. After washing, the electrical resistivity decreases to 29 kΩ·cm demonstrating excellent washing performance. The washing fastness is grade 4 and the rubbing fastness is grade 3.

    Preparation and characterization of soluble hemostatic medical cotton gauze
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  102-106.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180500905
    Abstract ( 7 )   PDF (1676KB) ( 3 )   Save
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    In order to improve the solubility of carboxymethyl medical cotton gauze to achieve good hemostatic effect, single factor analytical method was adopted to investigate the process conditions of solvent medium method. The influence of the mass fraction of sodium hydroxide and time of alkalization pre-treatment, the mass fraction of chloroacetic acid, temperature and time of etherification reaction on the solubility of cotton gauze were studied. The optimum preparation processes were obtained and the soluble hemostatic gauzes were characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectrometer and scanning electronic microscopy. The results show that the optimum soluble hemostatic gauzes are produced under the condition of 20% mass fraction of sodium hydroxide and alkalization pre-treatment for 30 min, 10. 5% mass fraction of chloroacetic acid, etherification at 70 ℃ for 4 h, while the dissolution time is 4 h. The cotton gauze is carboxymethylated, and the diameters of fibers increase after carboxymethylation.

    Ease distribution rules of characteristic positions in women′s suits
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  107-112.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180702706
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    In order to realize the automatic generation of individualized pattern, the distribution rules of ease allowance between human body and garments were analyzed to establish the pattern generation rules. First the undressed standard mannequin was scanned by a 3-D body scanner to obtain the basic pointcloud data of the mannequin, and then seven suits with the same style and different ease allowance were scanned to obtain the point-cloud data of the suits. The distribution rules of the distance ease were demonstrated by adding the data of the suits and mannequin, and the mannequin-suit curves of ten characteristic positions were measured to build the calculative models between the distance ease and the ease allowance to realize the conversion between the ease allowance and the distance ease. The R2 values of the regression models of the distance ease at all positions are all more than 0. 9, verifying the accuracy of the models. Finally, the distance ease was converted into the pattern increments through curve simulation by taking the bust position as an example, and the example shows that the difference between the bust circumference of the garment and the body bust girth is -0. 42 cm, which conforms to the standard error of the bust circumference of women′s suits in China.

    Typical cross section silhouette analysis and interval prediction model construction of shorts
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  113-118.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180608606
    Abstract ( 13 )   PDF (1674KB) ( 15 )   Save
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    In order to explore the influence of ease allowance on the shorts silhouette, the waist, hip and other typical cross sections which closely related to the shorts shape were selected as the research object. [TC]2 3-D scanner was adopted to collect point cloud data of typical section, and the curve was fitted by cerebellar model articulation controller ( CMAC) neural network. The minimum enclosing rectangle, thickness to width ratio and the interval were used to characterize the cross section ilhouette. The prediction model of interval and ease allowance was established by regression analysis. The results show that negative correlation exists between the ease allowances and the thickness to width ratio of the hip, thigh and leg opening. The interval of hip and thigh accumulates mainly on both sides and back middle part, resulting in the shape of the cross section is gradually flattening. Upon two paired samples T examination, no significant difference exists between the predicted values and actual measured results. The interval prediction model has a good fit, which can provide reference for establishing the relationship between human body data, cross section silhouette and 3-D simulation.

    Thermal-moisture comfort of multilayered fabric systemsused as firefighting clothing
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  119-123.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180703105
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    In order to study the comfort of the firefighters′ protective clothing fabrics and investigate the factors affecting the comfort of fabric combinations,11 types of fabrics commonly used in firefighters′ protective clothing were selected to simulate the layered composition of fire fighting clothing, including outer shell, moisture barrier, thermal barrier and comfort lining. And the multilayer fabrics were tested and analyzed in thermal resistance, moisture resistance and total heat loss. The results show that the basic properties of selected fabric combinations meets the requirement of GA 10-2014, but heat-moisture comfort of the fabrics does not meet the American standard. The thermal resistance, moisture resistance and total heat loss of the fabric are all in line with its weight. The thermal resistance and moisture resistance increases with the weight, while the total heat loss decreases with the weight. The thickness of the air layer between fabric combinations has a greater influence on the thermal resistance of the fabric combinations. Multiple regression mathematical model was built for the water-vapor transmition rate, clo and total heat loss. It can be applied to evaluate the thermal moisture comfort of multilayer fabrics.

    Recognition of special template based on improved analytic hierarchy process
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  124-130.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180607907
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    Aiming at the shortcomings of conventional analytic hierarchy process, an improved analytic hierarchy process based on combination factor analysis and cluster analysis was proposed and applied to special model recognition. Firstly, factor analysis was applied to determine the influencing factors and weight coefficients of each level of indicators. Then, K-means cluster analysis was applied to collect the special samples into three typical models such as hip, chest and abdomen. Finally, the analytic hierarchy process was applied to determine the weight of each indicator, and a special model-level hierarchical structure model including six secondary indicators, 13 third-level indicators and three four-level indicators was constructed. Three samples were randomly selected for empirical research. The five principal components extracted from the factor analysis were used as clustering indicators, and the K-means method was used for clustering. The specific sample-level hierarchical structure model was applied to identify the sample to be tested and hip and chest. The results show that the method can effectively characterize the variation of the special model and identify the model category.

    Three-dimensional numerical simulation of fiber movement in nozzle of murata vortex spinning
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  131-135.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180403505
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    The simplification of the fiber model or establishment of a two-dimensional model to simulate the movement of fibers in the flow field of murata vortex spinning nozzle could not describe the deformation of fibers in three-dimensional space. In order to solve this problem, a three-dimensional model of fibers was established, and the properties of fibers were reasonably set to make the model more accurate. Combining with arbitrary Lagrangian-Eulerian method, the motion of fiber in the flow field inside the jet vortex spinning nozzle was solved under the condition of fluid-structure interaction, and the movement and deformation of the fiber in the flow field were obtained. The results shown that the negative pressure in the twisting chamber causes the air flow at the nozzle inlet. The movement of the fiber tail in the gas stream is quite complex, first under the influence of turbulence, small fluctuations occur. Then, as time advances, the vibration frequency and vibration amplitude both increase first and then decrease. Under the influence of the flow field, the fiber tail is peeled off from the yarn and spirals forward to form the wrapping fiber.

    Online monitoring of formation process of vortex core-spun yarn containing metal wire
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  136-143.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180605208
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    In order to investigate the dynamics and wrapping quality of the fibers in the formation process of the vortex core-spun yarn containing metal wire, a device for the online monitoring based on an industrial endoscope was designed and images of the metal wire and the staple fibers moving in the spinning nozzle was captured. The characteristics of the exposed metal wire core during the wrapping process of the fibers were extracted. Comparative analysis of the amounts of exposed metal wire core in the wrapping process and in the yarn was performed. Influences of nozzle pressure and yarn delivery speed on the amounts of exposed metal wire core were also studied. The results show that the motional characteristics of staple fibers in the wrapping process can be grouped into three main categories: fibers evenly covering the metal wire with a certain helix angle; trailing ends of the fibers being expanded on the spindle or loosely distributed around the metal wire in piral configurations with their leading ends having wrapped around the metal wire; and leading ends of the fibers being in a free and separated state with their trailing ends having wrapped around the metal wire. The amount of the exposed metal wire core decreases first and then increases with the increase of the nozzle pressure, while it increases first and then decreases with the increase of the yarn delivery speed. The variation trend of the amount of exposed metal wire core with the process parameters is in accordance with the online monitored results.

    Optimization of washing process and roller structure on drum washing machine
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  144-149.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180503306
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    In order to study the influence of washing progress and the roller structure on washing quality when fabrics are rinsed on drum washing machine, three items describing the remains and distribution of dye solution on fabrics were defined firstly. A finite element model of washing region was built by Fluent, and the influences of different roller structures were analyzed. Considering remaining ratio of dyeing liquid, uniformity of dyeing liquid and washing area ratio comprehensively, evaluation function of washing quality was proposed. Using central composite design method, series of design points were obtained. Response curves and sensitivity values were achieved. It is shown that the influence of washing speed is the most significant reaching 68%. Finally, in order to improve the washing quality, washing process and roller structure were optimized. The result shows that the washing quality of evaluation function is increased by 16. 1%.

    Identification and application of yarn hairiness using adaptive threshold method under single vision
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  150-156.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180404607
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    In order to measure the yarn parameter information more accurately, the image grayscale enhancement algorithm and the linear region threshold segmentation algorithm were proposed to solve the serious loss of hairiness information after yarn image processing with the image background processing and the threshold segmentation algorithm. Using the self-built image acquisition system, six different types of yarn samples were acquired, and then the accuracy and validity of the image recognition algorithm was verified. Experimental results show that the proposed two algorithms can significantly reduce the loss of yarn image information and have good robustness. The length and number of yarn hairiness detected by the image processing method are similar to those of the visual inspection method. The grayscale contrast of the yarn and yarn image background is enhanced, and the effect of poor image segmentation due to a single threshold is avoided, thereby improving the recognition accuracy and measurement accuracy of the yarn hairiness. The research results provide an effective yarn image analysis algorithm for the subsequent development of a commercial yarn hairiness detection system.

    Fiber glass bobbin yarn hairiness detection based on machine vision
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  157-162.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180606406
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    In order to realize the automation detection of fiber glass bobbin yarn hairiness,a fiber glass bobbin yarn hairiness detect system based on machine vision was designed. First, image acquisition platform was built to obtain the hairiness images by applying the light source,camera,motor,et al. Then, the region of hairiness was extracted by the Binary large object analysis method,then the moment features of contours and the region features were calculated,and the hairiness classification was performed by combining these features and the support vector machine. Finally,the numbers of different types hairiness were obtained according to the results of classification and the difference of the coordinates between the previous and latter frames. At the same time,the data of the hairiness length in each frame was obtained by the minimum bounding rectangle of the hairiness, and the maximum value was regarded as the corresponding hairiness length. The experimental results show that the system can replace the manual detection of the bobbin yarn hairiness effectively,and the detection of a single bobbin yarn takes less than ten seconds,which can meet the industrial demand.

    Color shading detection and rating system for denim based on computer vision
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  163-169.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180407007
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    Focusing on subjective difference based on the human eye evaluation of current denim color detection,a computer vision-based denim color shading detection and rating system was proposed. Firstly, images of denim washing cloths and standard cloths under a standard light source were collected using a camera. Secondly, computer graphics principles and techniques, image processing, color space conversion and other technologies were adopted. Finally,a color shading detection and rating system for denim clothing was established by using MatLab and VC++ mixed programming technology. In order to acquire more accurate ratings data, a concept of percentage of diversity factor-value of chromatism was proposed, and the color shading diversity factor equation was obtained by fitting the value of chromatism under different degrees of difference to be as a rating indicator of denim clothing color shading detection system. The experimental results indicate that the color shading detection and grading system for denim based on computer vision has good consistency with the visual evaluation method, and the data value obtained by the system is more objective and accurate.

    Physicochemical properties and bioactivities of chitosan fibers
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  170-176.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180406107
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    In order to promote the application of chitosan fibers in medical and hygiene products, and develop functional textile materials and advanced medical textile products, this paper summarized the chemical and physical properties of chitosan fibers and their absorption properties for copper and zinc ions, and analyzed their cell activities, biocompatibilities and the various bioactivities while in contact with wound, blood and tissue, such as haemostasis, antimicrobial, enzyme inhibition, wound healing promotion, et al. It was pointed out that the glucosamine structure and the capability to bind metal ions play an important role in haemostasis, antimicrobial, detoxication, wound healing promotion, whitening and other bioactivities and functionalities, which are highly valuable in medical haemostatic materials, wound dressings, face masks, hygiene products and antimicrobial textile products.

    Research progress of stickiness perception of human body in dressing
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(05):  177-184.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180702008
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    In order to attenuate the stickiness perception of dressing in the sweaty or wet state, the formation mechanism of clothing stickiness perception was explored based on the types of skin mechanical sensors and their stimulating response properties. The advantages and limitations of three evaluation methods of the stickiness perception of dressing, namely physical evaluation, psychological evaluation and physiological evaluation, were analyzed. The influence factors on stickiness perception were analyzed from three aspects, including fabric factors about surface roughness and liquid water transfer performance, external stimulation factors about sliding friction and moisture, and human skin factors about perceptual sensitivity and features. It is finally pointed out that in the future the influence of fabric and external stimulus on the stickiness perception should be systematically analyzed by setting up the separation contact device, the neurophysiological mechanism of the stickiness perception on the hairy skin should be studied, and the body map of stickiness perception should be drawn, which provides theoretical basis for the development of comfortable fabrics and optimization of garment structure.

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