Journal of Textile Research
(Started in 1979,Monthly)
Authority in Charge: China Association for Science and Technology
Sponsor: China Textile Engineering Society
Edited and Published by: Periodical Agency of Journal of Textile Research
ISSN 0253-9721
CN 11-5167/TS
Table of Content
15 January 2020, Volume 41 Issue 01
  • Preparation of sulfonated polyacrylonitrile nanofiber membranes and adsorption capacity for Cr(VI) and Pb(II)
    WANG Jie, WANG Bin, DU Zongxi, LI Congju, LI Xiuyan, AN Boru
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  1-7.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.201807100007
    Abstract ( 67 )   PDF (2729KB) ( 57 )   Save
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    In order to better adsorb Cr(VI) and Pb(II) in water and avoid secondary water pollution by the adsorpting materials, polyacrylonitrile electrospun nanofiber membrane (PAN ENM) was chemically modified by reacting with p-toluenesulfonamide through the hydrothermal method, and the modified PAN ENM with the function of adsorbing heavy metal ions was successfully obtained. The removal performance and mechanism of the modified PAN ENM for adsorbing Cr(VI) and Pb(II) were studied. The results show that well-formed modified PAN ENM can be obtained through hydrothermal reaction at 125 ℃ for 2. 5 h. The adsorption behavior of the modified PAN ENM for Cr(VI) conformed to the Langmuir model and the pseudo-second-order kinetics. The equilibrium adsorption was reached in 1 h and the adsorption capacity reached 220. 4 mg/ g in a 50 mg/ L K2Cr2O7 solution. The adsorption for Pb(II) fits well to the Freundlich model and the pseudo-second-order kinetics. The equilibrium adsorption is achieved in 1 h and the adsorption capacity is 185.6 mg/ g in a 50 mg/ L Pb(NO3)2 solution.

    Modification of activated carbon fiber using graphene oxide doped titanium dioxide
    LUO Jiani, LI Lijun, ZHANG Xiaosi, ZOU Hantao, LIU Xueting
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  8-14.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181004207
    Abstract ( 35 )   PDF(mobile) (1685KB) ( 10 )   Save
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    In order to better tackle wastewater pollution, activated carbon fiber was modified to improve adsorption performance. In this paper, graphene oxide (GO) doped titanium dioxide (TiO2) solution was prepared using the sol-gel method. The GO-TiO2 was successfully loaded on the activated carbon fibers (ACFs) using the immersion-pulling method. The effect of GO doping content on the performances of the modified GO-TiO2 / ACFs was investigated. The microstructure and surface morphology were characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectrometer, Raman spectra, scanning electron microscope and X-ray diffraction. The photocatalytic degradation and adsorption kinetics of the modified ACFs under visible light were studied, and the results show that TiO2in the prepared GO-TiO2/ ACFs mainly consists of anatase phase. The GO doping prevented the growth and agglomeration of TiO2 crystal and resulted in smaller crystal size of TiO2, decreasing from 15. 7 nm to 8. 1 nm. Compared to TiO2/ ACFs, the GOTiO2/ ACFs with a small content of GO demonstrated a superior adsorption performance under the visible light, and the removal rate of methylene blue increased from 65% to 85%. The GO-TiO2/ ACFs adsorption results manifested better conformation with the pseudo-second-order kinetics model than the pseudo-first-order kinetics model.

    Preparation of cotton stalk bast cellulose / graphene oxide fiber and its mechanical properties and adsorption capacity
    LI Zhenqun, XU Duo, WEI Chunyan, QIAN Yongfang, LÜ Lihua
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  15-20.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190201606
    Abstract ( 35 )   PDF (1826KB) ( 29 )   Save
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    In order to improve the adsorption capacity of cellulose-based adsorbent fibers for cationic methylene blue dyes and the fiber strength, cotton stalk cellulose/ graphene oxide (GO) fibers containing different mass fractions of GO were prepared by ultrasonic dispersion method and wet spinning method. The morphology and structure of the materials were analyzed by transmission electron microscopy,scanning electron microscopy and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The effects of GO content on the breaking strength and adsorption capacity of the fibers were discussed. Fitting analysis was conducted on the experimental data of adsorption capacity. The results show that the breaking strength of the fiber increases first and then decreases with the increase of mass fraction of GO. When the mass fraction of GO was 0. 4%, the fiber breaking strength peaked at 31. 12 cN, which is 84% stronger than that without adding GO. The amount of methylene blue adsorption increases with the increase of GO mass fraction. The adsorption process conforms to the pseudo-second-order adsorption kinetic models and Langmuir isotherms adsorption model. The adsorption is related monolayer molecules, and the adsorption process is a spontaneous exothermic reaction.

    Properties of regenerated fibers from bamboo pulp / ionic liquid combined system
    OUYANG Pengfei, ZHANG Yufang, JIA Chunzi, ZHANG Jiayu
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  21-25.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181200106
    Abstract ( 21 )   PDF(mobile) (2054KB) ( 7 )   Save
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    In order to explore the influencing factors of regenerated fiber properties by ionic liquid method, the bamboo cellulose pulp was dissolved in an ionic liquid mixture of 1-allyl-3- methylimidazolium chloride ([AMIM]Ac), 1-butyl-3-methylimidazolium chloride ([BMIM]Ac)and the organic solvent of dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO). The regenerated fiber was produced by wet spinning. The regenerated fiber was analyzed using electron microscopy, thermogravimetric analysis, X-ray diffraction and was tested for mechanical properties. The results show that when the DMSO content increases and the
    ionic liquid content in the spinning dope decreases, the smoothness of the surface and thermal stability of the regenerated fiber would first increase and then decrease, and the mechanical properties would decrease. As the content of bamboo cellulose pulp is increased, the surface of the regenerated fiber filament become smoother, and the crystallinity, thermal stability, breaking strength and fiber diameter are increased. The regenerated fiber made from ionic liquid [AMIM]Ac has proven to offer improved performance.

    Preparation and properties of drug-loaded polyvinylidene fluoride wound dressings
    WU Qianqian, LI Ke, YANG Lishuang, FU Yijun, ZHANG Yu, ZHANG Haifeng
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  26-31.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190200306
    Abstract ( 39 )   PDF(mobile) (2017KB) ( 19 )   Save
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    With the aim of obtaining thin and soft wound dressings with excellent piezoelectric and antibacterial functions, drug-loaded ( PVDF ) composite nanofiber membranes were prepared by electrospinning from PVDF and enrofloxacin hydrochloride (Enro) at different mass ratios. The influence of morphology and chemical structure of the composite nanofiber membrane on its piezoelectricity, sustained release and antibacterial properties were investigated. Results show that in the situation where the mass ratio of PVDF was 8% and the average fiber diameter was(753±128) nm, the fiber membrane showed good web formation. It is revealed that the diameter of composite nanofiber increased and then decreased as the Enro mass fraction was incremented, and that the crystal structure of PVDF changed from α to β crystal phase after the process of electrospinning, leading to an excellent piezoelectric properties with a 9 mV output voltage. When the mass concentration of Enro was 15%, the drug-loaded PVDF composite nanofiber membrane exhibited a relatively stable and sustainable release and outstanding antibacterial performance. The drug-loaded PVDF composite nanofiber membrane is proven to be suitable for wound dressings.

    Structural characteristics and sound absorption properties of waste feather
    LÜ Lihua, LIU Yingjie, GUO Jing, WANG Ying, BI Jihong, YE Fang
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  32-38.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190105607
    Abstract ( 30 )   PDF(mobile) (2124KB) ( 15 )   Save
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    Aiming at the reuse of waste feathers, this paper reports a study on the macromolecular structure, aggregated structure and morphological structure of feathers by means of multifunctional fiber projector, scanning electron microscope, Fourier transform infrared spectrometer and X-ray diffractometer, and on the findings in the relationship between feather structure and sound absorption performance. Sound absorption properties of waste feathers and other fiber aggregates used for sound absorption were tested and compared in terms of acoustic impedance. The results show that the order (from high to low) of sound absorption efficiency for the several fiber aggregates were as follows: waste feather,kapok fiber,wool,hemp fiber,and polyester fiber. The sound absorption efficiency of the waste feather increases as the density of the fiber aggregates gets higher throughout the test frequency range, and the sound absorption frequency corresponding to the maximum sound absorption coefficient of the fiber aggregates gradually decreases with the increase of the density of the fiber aggregates. Waste feather fiber demonstrates excellent sound absorption performance and has good application potential for sound absorption.

    Effect of speed ratio between cylinder and taker-in on carding quality
    SHAO Yinghai, ZHANG Mingguang, CAO Jipeng, GUO Xin, HAN Xianguo
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  39-44.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190203006
    Abstract ( 28 )   PDF(mobile) (752KB) ( 11 )   Save
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    To improve cotton carding quality, the effect of speed ratio between cylinder and taker-in on card sliver, breaker sliver and intermediate sliver were investigated under different speeds of cylinder and taker-in. The parameter correlation between card sliver and breaker sliver, intermediate sliver was analyzed using SPSS. The results showed that when the taker-in speed ranges from 500 r/ min to 800 r/ min, the length-related parameters changed a little, even under the same taker-in speed with different speed ratios. However, the numbers of nep and impurities had an obvious decreasing tendency with the increase of taker-in speed and cylinder/ taker-in speed ratio. In the case when the taker-in speed is in the range of 850 to 900 r/ min, the length-related parameters decreased and the numbers of nep and impurities increased remarkably with the increase of taker-in speed and cylinder/ taker-in speed ratio.

    Relationship between fiber alignment and yarn unevenness
    SU Yuheng, KONG Fanrong, YAN Guangsong
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  45-49.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190203206
    Abstract ( 28 )   PDF(mobile) (1487KB) ( 10 )   Save
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    In order to study the relationship between the alignment of fibers and the uneven distribution of fiber numbers in the cross-sections of a staple yarn, a mathematical model describing the distribution of fibers at the left ends of yarn segments cut at equal intervals and the expectation of the fiber numbers in the yarn cross-section was established using geometric probability method, and a parameter to characterize the arrangement of fibers in yarn was defined. The variation of fiber numbers in the cross-sections of yarn segments against the fiber alignment parameter was simulated by Monte Carlo method. The results showed that the CV value of fiber numbers in the cross-sections of the segments of the staple yarn was negatively
    proportional against the parameters of the alighment state of staple fibers in the yarn, and demonstrated no relation with the distribution of the fiber length and the division of the simulation interval. When the alighment parameter is close to 1, that is when the number of fibers in the left end of the yarn segment is fixed, the variation in fiber numbers in the cross-sections was the lowest. When the alignment parameter tends to 0, meaning that when the number of fibers in yarn segments follows a Poisson distribution, the variation of the fiber numbers was the highest.

    Construction of Kubelka-Munk double-constant color matching model for ring digital yarn color prediction
    ZHANG Tingting, XUE Yuan, HE Yudong, LIU Yuexing, ZHANG Guoqing
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  50-55.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190102106
    Abstract ( 22 )   PDF(mobile) (1278KB) ( 11 )   Save
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    With the aim to construct a color-matching model for ring digital spun yarns, the ring spinning machine is used to produce yarns from rovings of five colors (red, yellow, cyan, black and white) as raw materials, with a 10% blending gradient for color spinning. Such obtained yarns were then made in fabrics with a circular knitting machine to examine the color of fabrics. Based on the Kubelka-Munk double-constant theory, the relative value method was employed to solve the parameter absorption coefficient and the scattering coefficient, leading to the construction of the model. The color-matching algorithm was formulated by combining the full chromatogram algorithm and the least squares method to predict the color mixing in the ring digital spinning. Red, yellow and cyan rovings were prepared using different mixing ratios. The results showed that the average color difference was 1. 74, and the average proportional error was 7. 38%. 72. 22% of the samples demonstrated a color difference less than 2%, which proved that the model is applicable for the ring spinning system.

    Preparation and properties of carbon fiber / polyester electrocardiogram monitoring embroidery electrode
    DONG Ke, LI Siming, WU Guanzheng, HUANG Hongrong, LIN Zhongshi, XIAO Xueliang
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  56-62.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190101908
    Abstract ( 18 )   PDF(mobile) (2944KB) ( 7 )   Save
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    Aiming at the preparation of a biocompatible human electrocardiogram (ECG) monitoring electrode for wearable electronic clothing for medical care, a new carbon fiber/ polyester embroidery fabric electrode was developed by embroidering carbon fiber/ polyester composite filaments to form a conductive material. The electrical properties and cytotoxicity of the electrodes were tested and analyzed. A selfdeveloped wearable belt ECG monitoring system was used to evaluate the quality of the human body ECG signal collected by the carbon fiber/ polyester fabric electrodes in comparison with silver-plated polyamide/ polyester embroidery electrodes. The results demosntrate that the silver plated electrodes had better electrical properties, but for long-term ECG signal monitoring the impedance of the carbon fiber/ polyester electrodes appeared to have similar performance to that of the silver plated electrodes. Compared with the medical gel electrode, the ECG signals collected from the two types of embroidery electrodes demonstrate good quality, meeting the needs for medical diagnosis. Cytotoxicity test revealed that silver-plated electrodes were highly cytotoxic with a cell survival rate of only 3%, whilst for the carbon based electrodes the cell survival rate was 107% with nil cytotoxicity. The research show that the embroidery carbon based electrodes have good biocompatibility and meets the test standard of medical materials in vitro.

    Implementation and application of jacquard weaving CAD software concise design pattern for multi-warp multi-weft fabrics
    YU Xiaohong, LIU Yangfei, ZHENG Xiaofei
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  63-68.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190201306
    Abstract ( 26 )   PDF(mobile) (7404KB) ( 7 )   Save
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    To optimize the technology design of multi-warp multi-weft fabrics, this paper develops and implements a concise design pattern of jacquard weaving technology processing. The principle of designing the concise design pattern is to transform the two dimensional relationship of jacquard color No. and shuttle No., which in the figured hook weave table of conventional jacquard weaving CAD technology design, to one dimensional linear relationship. In the practical stage of jacquard technology design, by using synthesized weave, it′s simplified that one color matching multiple weaves to one color matching one synthesized weave. This paper also introduces the concept of shuttle position and empty shuttle, and picks according to the shuttle position in the design of picking. The practice of double-warp double-weft patterned jacquard weaving technology shows: with the concise design pattern, it only needs to design 6 simple structured synthesized weaves, to complete the 60 simple weaves that it originally needs to design. The concise design pattern significantly simplifies the design process of multi-warp multi-weft complex weaves.

    Technical design model of weft-knitted two-side jacquard fabric
    LIANG Jialu, CONG Honglian, ZHANG Aijun
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  69-74.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190100406
    Abstract ( 22 )   PDF(mobile) (2612KB) ( 7 )   Save
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    In order to simplify the technical design process of two-sided weft-knitted jacquard fabrics and to improve the design and development efficiency, the structural characteristics of the two-sided weftknitted jacquard fabric were analyzed based on the fabric diagram. This research divided each knitting diagram cell into nine categories according to the operating methods of the cylinder and the dial. The technical design model of the fabric was established by employing mathematical matrices, including the pattern artisan matrix, knitting artisan matrix, cell definition matrix and knitting diagram matrix. According to the design and development process of the fabric, the conversion algorithm for converting a pattern artisan matrix to a knitting diagram matrix is developed, and the technical design model through the on-machine example was verified.

    Effect of different iron salt media on indigo electrochemical reduction system
    WANG Kangkang, LI Xiaoyan, YAO Jiming
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  75-79.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190104706
    Abstract ( 22 )   PDF(mobile) (1049KB) ( 5 )   Save
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    Aiming at the problems of low dye reduction rate and poor dyeing depth in the current electrochemical dyeing process, this paper reports on the use of iron salt solutions with different valence states as media to form a synergistic complexation system with sodium gluconate and Abal B ligand, to
    achieve electrochemical reduction of the indigo dye. By controlling dyeing solution reduction potential, dye reduction rate, ferrous ion conversion rate, the effects of different iron salt media on the reduction effect of indigo dyes were studied. The effects of dye concentration, voltage and time on the performance of indirect electrochemical reduction system of indigo dye were investigated. The results show that the optimum process conditions were the concentration of indigo 2. 5 g/ L, ferrous sulfate 15 g/ L, sodium gluconate 12 g/ L, Abal B 10. 5 g/ L, sodium hydroxide 37. 5 g/ L, working voltage 10 V, and electrification time 40 min. Under these conditions, the reduction rate reached 89. 95%, the dyeing depth value of dyeing was improved by 4. 5% compared with that of traditional process. The color fastness of the two processes was found similar.

    Alkali reduction and one-bath-one-step process for dyeing polyester knitted fabric
    WANG Xiaoyan, DU Jinmei, PENG Lingqi, JING Lili, XU Changhai
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  80-87.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180907508
    Abstract ( 26 )   PDF(mobile) (2112KB) ( 11 )   Save
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    Polyester knitted fabrics are conventionally dyed with a process consisting alkali reduction, high temperature and high pressure exhaust dyeing, reduction cleaning, and washing. These steps are taking place individually, consuming more time and energy. To solve this problem in this research, polyester knitted fabrics were dyed with alkali-resistant disperse dyes under an alkali condition called onebath-one-step exhaust dyeing and alkali reduction process. Influences of the dosage of sodium hydroxide, process temperature and duration on the properties of polyester fabrics using the one-bath-one-step process were investigated. An optimized process was obtained as follows: sodium hydroxide 10 g/ L, temperature of 130 ℃ and duration of 50 min. It was found that compared with the ones obtained by conventional dyeing process, polyester fabrics treated with the one-bath-one-step process exhibited dyeing depth values 10% higher than the conventional dyeing process. This means that in order to achieve the same color, the use of one-bath-one-step process could save effectively the dosage of dyes. The dyed polyester fabrics treated with the one-bath-one-step process were stable in color and demonstrated excellent colorfastness.

    Study on cellulose-based flocculant from flax yarn waste and its flocculation performance in treating industrial wastewater
    CHEN Dongzhi, YANG Xiaogang, CHEN Yanxia, LIU Lin, CHEN Bin,
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  88-95.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190203308
    Abstract ( 37 )   PDF(mobile) (1904KB) ( 6 )   Save
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    In order to improve the flocculation efficiency and environmental friendliness of commercial flocculants, flax waste cellulose (FC) was grafted with polyacrylamide (PAM) to prepare the FC-g- PAM for partial replacement of the commercial PAM. The morphology and chemical structure of the FC-g-PAM were characterized by FT-IR, field emission scanning electron microscopy, organic element analyzer, X-ray diffractometer and thermogravimetric analysis. Its biodegradability was also investigated. The flocculation performance of the FC-g -PAM in treating wastewater from dyeing, papermaking and mechanical processing were studied. The results showed that the optimal synthesis conditions for preparing FC-g -PAM were: reaction temperature 80 ℃,ammonium persulfate dosage 0. 30 g/ g, PAM dosage 0. 25 g/ g and FC concentration 6%. Thermal stability of FC-g-PAM was demonstrated better than that of FC and 90 d biodegradation rate reached 68.5%. After the flocculation of the FC-g-PAM, the turbidity of treated dyeing wastewater was 17 NTU, chromaticity at 126, supended matter content at 36 mg/ L, CODCr at 372 mg/ L, BOD5 at 132 mg/ L. All these indices of FC-g-PAM indicate better flocculation performance than those of the commercial PAM.

    Preparation and electrochemical properties of MnO2 / graphene / cotton fabric composite electrode
    LI Yuzhou, ZHANG Yufan, ZHOU Qingqing, CHEN Guoqiang, XING Tieling
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  96-101.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190105006
    Abstract ( 25 )   PDF(mobile) (1976KB) ( 4 )   Save
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    In order to enhance the electrochemical properties of flexible fabric electrodes, high concentration graphene oxide hydrosol was prepared by improved Hummers method, the graphene oxide was then coated onto cotton fabric through an environmentally friendly ″ dry-coating″ method, and graphene/ cotton fabric was prepared by subsequent ″two-step reduction″ method of chemical-microwave reduction. Then the MnO2 / graphene/ cotton fabric composite electrode materials were prepared through electrochemical deposition of MnO2 on graphene/ cotton fabric material. The morphology and structure of composite electrode materials were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, X-ray diffraction, and infrared spectrum. The results show that the specific capacitance of composite electrode material reaches 490 F/ g at current density of 0. 25 A/ g. After 1 000 capacitance discharges, the capacitance remains at 95. 5% and the energy density reaches 17. 01 W·h/ kg.

    Preparation and far-infrared emission performance of graphene based zirconium / titanium composites modified cotton fabrics
    YI Ling, ZHANG He, FU Xin, LI Wen
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  102-109.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180906408
    Abstract ( 23 )   PDF(mobile) (2207KB) ( 2 )   Save
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    In order to further improve the far-infrared emission characteristics of graphene-based nanocomposites, zirconia/ titania/ reduced graphene oxide ( ZrO2 / TiO2 - rGO) nanocomposites were prepared by one-step hydrothermal modification of graphene oxide with zirconia/ titanium oxide. Cotton fabrics with far-infrared emissivity were prepared by combining ZrO2 / TiO2 -rGO with the textiles using water-soluble polyurethane as binder. The morphology and internal structure of ZrO2 / TiO2 - rGO composites were characterized by scanning electron microscopy and Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, and the far infrared emission properties of modified cotton fabrics were characterized by far infrared emissivity and infrared thermal imaging technology. The results show that at 120 ℃ for 4 reaction hours, the far-infrared emissivity of the treated cotton fabric was about 2.5% higher than that of the untreated cotton fabric when the mass ratio of graphene oxide,titanium dioxide,zirconium oxychloride was 5 ∶ 3 ∶ 2. This method could effectively reduce the content of graphene and provide good far-infrared emission performance with low cost.

    Elements classification of vein patterns using convolutional neural networks for blue calico
    JIA Xiaojun, YE Lihua, DENG Hongtao, LIU Zihao, LU Fengjie
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  110-117.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180906008
    Abstract ( 24 )   PDF(mobile) (2133KB) ( 16 )   Save
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    To inherit and innovate the traditional blue calico vein patterns making use of the digital technology, the image elements constituting blue calico vein patterns were extracted to form a structured database for vein pattern elements. A classification method based on convolutional neural networks was proposed. The pattern elements were firstly extracted from the captured 128 images of blue calico to form an image sample database with a total of 21 212 images. Secondly, 80% of image samples in the database were randomly selected as the training set and the rest 20% as the testing set. The training samples were convoluted by a 5 × 5 convolutional kernel size, and the obtained feature maps were pooled. After computing through 3 convoluting layers, 3 pooling layers and 2 full connection layers, 12 classification types were obtained by using Softmax classifier. Eventually, the optimal network model parameters were acquired and ideal classification results were obtained through deep learning of the image element samples. The experimental results show that the 12 types of vein pattern elements of blue calico, produced by the convolutional neural networks model, are proved to be with an average accuracy of 99. 61%, and detection accuracy of 98. 5%. This work provides new ideas for studying blue calico vein patterns.

    Influence of steam exposure condition on thermal protective performance of fabrics
    QIU Hao, SU Yun, WANG Yunyi
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  118-123.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190100606
    Abstract ( 40 )   PDF(mobile) (1605KB) ( 14 )   Save
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    Aiming to evaluate the effects of steam pressure and distance between hot steam and human body on thermal and moisture transfer of fabrics, this study was carried out to characterize thermal protective performance of fabrics under different steam pressures and jet distances. The relationship
    between water storage, steam permeability and thermal protective performance under the steam heat exposure condition was analyzed, and the influence of steam pressure on water storage and steam permeability was explored. The research findings indicate that increasing steam pressure and reducing jet distance can both decrease the thermal insulation, and evidently reduce the thermal protective performance of fabrics under steam exposure environment. Air permeability of fabric has a significant negative correlation with second degree burn time. In addition, both water storage and steam permeability are positively correlated with steam pressure, also with fabric′s moisture regain and air permeability. It is concluded that the decrease of water absorption and steam penetration determine thermal protective performance of fabrics.

    Effect of clothing structure and dummy model on shielding effectiveness of electromagnetic protecting clothing
    WANG Qiuhan, WANG Yajing, DONG Keping, XIAO Hong
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  124-130.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190101507
    Abstract ( 28 )   PDF(mobile) (3498KB) ( 21 )   Save
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    In order to explore the shielding effectiveness and influencing factors of different structures and styles of clothing made of the same electromagnetic shielding fabric,four types of electromagnetic protecting clothing were designed for testing in semi-anechoic chamber by wearing dummy method. The factors affecting the electromagnetic shielding effectiveness were analyzed. The results show that the clothing style, seam gap, test location, dummy model stuffing with absorbing materials, and the polarization direction of electromagnetic field were found as the factors affecting the shielding effectiveness, especially the clothing style and seam gap. The shielding effectiveness went higher in the sequence of vest, coat, split suit to conjoined suit. When conductive fabric patches were applied to the abdominal seam gap of split suits, the shielding effectiveness was greatly improved. After filling the back of the dummy model with an absorbing material to eliminate the multiple electromagnetic reflections in the resonator, the shielding effectiveness of the test was also improved. The effect of opening on shielding effectiveness was proved not significant, when the neckline and cuff were tightly designed. Due to the
    influence of the seam direction of clothing, there are differences in shielding effectiveness for vertical and horizontal polarization of electromagnetic waves.

    Automatic generation of A-type skirt model based on AutoCAD parametric function
    LOU Shaohong
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  131-138.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181202708
    Abstract ( 65 )   PDF (2249KB) ( 52 )   Save
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    In order to better use AutoCAD parametric function for large-scale personalized plate making in the garment industry, a new method of fitting waist line with single arc and swing line with biarc is adopted aiming at problems in parameterizing A-type skirt pattern. Through analysis and comparison of constraint methods, the principle of parametric constraints proposed solved the problems when using AutoCAD parametric functions, such as slow operation, result disorder and system stuck. Using the parameterized function of AutoCAD, A-type skirt patterns can be achieved based on the automatically generated A-type skirt model, which had functions on specification alteration, bottom opening size adjustment, sweep shape change, doubling, and fabric radial selection. The results show parametric model of A-type skirt based on AutoCAD parametric function leads to simple operation and is intuitive, which significantly saves the model-making time, doubles the work efficiency, and meets the requirements for rapid plate-making of personalized clothing customization.

    Free convection calculation method for performance prediction of thermal protective clothing in an unsteady thermal state
    DING Ning, LIN Jie
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  139-144.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181105406
    Abstract ( 23 )   PDF(mobile) (1461KB) ( 7 )   Save
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    A method for the surface heat transfer coefficient calculation of free convection is proposed, which plays an important part in the numerical heat insulation prediction of thermal protective clothing under unsteady thermal state in high temperature environments, where heat transferred by free convection cannot be ignored or even is the main part. A typical heat transfer model was presented under an unsteady thermal state, using finite difference method. Two sets of numerical results were obtained under two boundary conditions at the outer surface of clothing, these conditions being constant temperature boundary condition and Howard model′s free convection boundary condition. However, the comparison between experimental and the two numerical analysis results showed obvious differences. For improvement, a method using Fourier′s law, Newton cooling law and free convection condition of Howard model was proposed under linear assumption to calculate free convection heat transfer coefficient. Improving the heat transfer model with this method, three sets of numerical results were obtained using finite difference method with different time steps, and the comparison between experimental and these three numerical results showed fast convergence to experimental results with time step getting smaller. The difference between the calculated and experimental results was less than 0. 1 ℃ when time step was set to 0. 001 s.

    Simulation optimization of one-piece flow T-shirt assembly line based on Flexsim
    SONG Ying, TIAN Hong, LI Jingyi
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  145-149.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181206005
    Abstract ( 27 )   PDF(mobile) (1745KB) ( 7 )   Save
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    Low production balance rate was witnessed due to backlog, waiting and bottleneck in the production process of one piece flow garment assembly line. This research studies on the simulation optimization of one-piece flow T-shirt assembly line using Flexsim software. The simulation optimization
    model was established for T-shirt as an example using Flexsim taking the process flow into consideration. Through function analysis, it was possible to modify the operations in the operation line and run the simulation cycle test repeatedly. The establishment of the simulation optimization reduced severity of the bottle-neck problem, and the production balance rate was increased significantly from 80.4% to 95.3%. At the same time, the feasibility of Flexsim simulation in the production process for different clothing pipelines was verified to be applicable.

    Research on omnichannel integration model of clothing brands in new retail era
    SHAO Peng, LIANG Jie
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  150-157.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181206208
    Abstract ( 41 )   PDF(mobile) (1442KB) ( 9 )   Save
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    In the new retail era, clothing brands face many challenges. The purpose of this study is to explore the omnichannel integration model for clothing brands, based on the business model theory and channel integration practices. This paper focuses on casual and sports clothing brands as case study objects. The research was carried out in three stages: value discovery, value creation, and value realization. It was found that before omnichannel integration, the businesses in this study had already made the transformation from single to dual-channel mode. The study also shows that the sales practice of the omnichannel integration model integrates the advantages of the offline channel experience with those of online channel information, and that clothing brands achieve omnichannel integration through technology application and mechanism innovation. The omnichannel model has the characteristics of same category, same price, stock sharing, and member data intercommunication. The omnichannel brand can interact with customers through various channels using preferential strategies, while organizing and guiding them through network platforms and social media.

    Research on servo drive of detaching roller of cotton combing machines
    LIU Lidong, LI Xinrong, YANG Haipeng, BU Zhaoning
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  158-164.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181204307
    Abstract ( 14 )   PDF(mobile) (2314KB) ( 2 )   Save
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    Aiming at solving the problem of excessive driving power provided by the single servo motor equipped for detaching roller in the current versions of cotton comber, the use of dual motor with a oneway hybrid driving mechanism was proposed. Under the preposition that detaching roller provides the required motion, the concept of hybrid drives using parallel and biased differential gear trains was put forward after analyzing the power distribution in the hybrid driving mechanism. The dynamic performance of motor under different schemes was compared to by simulation analysis of virtual prototype. The results show that the speed and acceleration (absolute value) of the driving motor used in the hybrid drive mechanism is reduced by more than 30% compared to that of the single servo motor mechanism, leading to a significant improvement in dynamic performance of the motor. In addition, the design also enables the adjustment of machine speed according to different cotton processing parameters. This new design increases the flexibility of the mechanism, stimulating new ideas for research in high-efficiency combers.

    Research on knitting machine interconnection and interoperability structure based on industrial internet
    WANG Songsong, PENG Laihu, DAI Ning, SHEN Chunya, HU Xudong
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  165-173.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181206309
    Abstract ( 31 )   PDF(mobile) (2608KB) ( 9 )   Save
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    In order to realize the interconnection and intercommunication of knitting machine from the bottom layer to the cloud, under the drive of the national intelligent manufacturing standard system, based on the network, data, security and other factors, the internet model of knitting machine industry was constructed, and the ubiquitous connection and logo of knitting machine was discussed. By analyzing the characteristics of OT+IT network, the network structure and bandwidth based on ″internet +″ are designed, and the future network is discussed. Combining the reliability of heavyweight communication protocol and the convenience of lightweight communication protocol, a special protocol for knitting machine interconnection is designed. The structure and semantics of the message are standardized. The communication guarantee and service quality assurance mechanism are established to make the message. Be sure to be reachable. The verification platform for the interconnection and intercommunication of the knitting machine industry was designed. The terms of the industrial internet interconnection network and communication protocol of knitting machines such as flat knitting machines, circular knitting machines and warp knitting machines are verified, and the verification, revision and re-verification processes are guaranteed.

    Research and development progress of bio-based polyester and polyamide fibers
    DONG Kuiyong, YANG Tingting, WANG Xueli, HE Yong, YU Jianyong
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  174-183.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190801610
    Abstract ( 50 )   PDF(mobile) (2403KB) ( 21 )   Save
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    To promote the transformation, upgrading and sustainable development of China′s chemical fiber industry, this paper reviewed the global market, technology development and trend of bio-based polyester and polyamide fibers with bio-based polyethylene terephthalate, polytrimethylene terephthalate, polylactic acid, poly(ethylene furandicarboxylate), poly(propylene furandicaboxylate), polyamide 56 fibers as representatives, summarized and analyzed the global patent distribution of bio-based fibers, the patent strategy and technology of the major organizations in the world. Based on this and the actual situation of domestic industry of polymer materials, the key item was suggested to break through the core technology in preparation of strategic bio-based monomers such as ethylene glycol, terephthalic acid and 1,6-hexanediamine. At the same time, some advices were put forward on the major tasks and development path for research and development of bio-based polyester and polyamide fibers in China.

    Progress review on research of aromatic polyamide nanofiber composites
    ZHAO Yinghui, GU Yingchun, HU Fei, LIN Jiayou, YE Lanlin, LI Jingjing, CHEN Sheng
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  184-189.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181204506
    Abstract ( 20 )   PDF(mobile) (1015KB) ( 11 )   Save
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    In order to better understand the state-of-the-art in developing aromatic polyamide nanofibers, this paper summarizes the preparation methods for making aromatic polyamide nanofibers, including deprotonation, electrospinning and self-assembly synthesis. Focusing on the research in aromatic polyamide nanofibers composites for supercapacitor electrode materials, lithium ion battery separator materials, filter membrane materials and fiber reinforcement materials, this paper mainly scrutinizes the preparation methods and reviews the unique properties of aromatic polyamide nanofiber composites. Relevant research in this area has provided the theoretical basis for achieving the controllable preparation and structural modulation of these nanocomposites. Finally, the challenges of aromatic polyamide nanofiber composites were spelt out, and it was concluded that aromatic polyamide nanofibers have a good development prospect as novel nanoscale ″building blocks″.

    Research progress on thermal comfort of bedding system
    LIU Yuping, LU Yehu, WANG Laili
    Journal of Textile Research. 2020, 41(01):  190-196.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190101407
    Abstract ( 38 )   PDF(mobile) (1159KB) ( 15 )   Save
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    As a necessary part during sleeping, the bedding system has more pronounced effect on sleeping thermal comfort than the indoor environment. To properly evaluate the sleeping thermal comfort of the bedding system, commonly used evaluation methods were reviewed in terms of experimental research and numerical modeling studies worldwide. Based on the heat and moisture exchange theory of humanbedding system-environment system, various influencing factors for sleeping thermal comfort were analyzed in three aspects, i.e. bedding system factors such as thermal resistance, evaporative resistance and bedding microclimate, human body factors such as thermal physiological differences in gender and working status. Environmental factors such as environmental temperature, humidity and speed of wind were also investigated for their effects on the sleeping thermal comfort. The drawbacks of current studies were pointed out and the development trends of sleeping thermal comfort of bedding systems were predicted. A comprehensive ″human-bedding system-environment″ thermal comfort model was proposed to improve the accuracy of sleeping thermal comfort evaluation.