Journal of Textile Research
(Started in 1979,Monthly)
Authority in Charge: China Association for Science and Technology
Sponsor: China Textile Engineering Society
Edited and Published by: Periodical Agency of Journal of Textile Research
ISSN 0253-9721
CN 11-5167/TS
Table of Content
15 September 2019, Volume 40 Issue 09
  • Electrospun poly(tetrafluoroethylene) / TiO2 photocatalytic nanofiber membrane and its application
    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  1-7.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180806707
    Abstract ( 78 )   PDF (3111KB) ( 30 )   Save
    References | Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to solve the difficult recovery of photocatalyst titanium dioxide (TiO2) and unstable performance of the conventional carrier materials, poly(tetrafluoroethylene) (PTFE) was used as a stable TiO2 carrier, and polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) was used as the spinning carrier. The PTFE/ PVA/ TiO2 precursor fiber membrane was obtained by emulsion electrospinning, and then the PTFE/ TiO2 photocatalytic nanofiber membrane was obtained after sintering. The effects of the amount of titanium dioxide on the structure and properties of the membranes were investigated by membrane morphology observation, pore size, porosity and hydrophobicity. The results show that with the increase of TiO2solid content, the uniformity of membrane fiber diameter decreases and the pore size increases. The membrane was used in vacuum membrane distillation experiment. The flux is up to 35 L/ ( m2·h) and the desalination rate is over 99. 98%. At the same time, the membrane was used for photocatalytic degradation of methylene blue dye aqueous solution (concentration of 10 mg/ L). The degradation ratio reaches 99% after 5 h UV irradiation. After reuse, PTFE/ titanium dioxide nanofiber membranes still maintain good membrane structure and photocatalytic performance.

    Influence of relative molecular weight of copolyamide 6 / 66 on crystallization and rheological properties thereof

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  8-14.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180807607
    Abstract ( 52 )   PDF (1329KB) ( 13 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to explore the melt processing properties of new copolyamide 6/66 (PA6/66), the influence of the relative molecular weight on the melt behavior, crystallization behavior and melt rheological behavior of PA6/66 were characterized by differential scanning calorimetry, melt flow rate instrument and capillary rheometer. The results show that PA6/66 exhibits a single melting peak, and its melting point and glass transition temperature are less affected by relative molecular weight, which are about 210 ℃ and 45 ℃, respectively. Compared with PA6, the melting temperature, melting enthalpy and crystallization enthalpy of PA6/66 decreases. With the increase of relative molecular weight, the crystallization enthalpy of PA6/66 decreases from 45. 16 J/ g to 43. 67 J/ g at the cooling rate of 20 ℃ / min, which is significantly lower than the crystallization enthalpy of PA6(64. 49 J/ g) at the same molecular weight. The copolymers are all pseudoplastic fluids in non-Newtonian fluids, with the increase of temperature, the non-Newtonian index increases and the sensitivity to shear rate decreased. In addition, PA6/66 has a higher viscous activation energy than PA6 at high shear rates.

    Preparation and properties of n-eicosane / cellulose diacetate phase change filter material

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  15-21.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180901407
    Abstract ( 37 )   PDF (3911KB) ( 9 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to achieve rapid cooling of flue gas, the composite phase-change gas filtration materials were prepared by using the common tobacco filter material diacetate fiber as the carrier matrix and n-eicosane as the phase change material, and the cooling rate of the composite filter materials were further accelerated by doping single-walled carbon nanotubes. The influence of the content of n-eicosane on the spinnability of compound spinning liquid and on the apparent morphology and thermal properties of
    composite phase change filter materials and the influence of the content of single-walled carbon nanotubes on the apparent morphology, thermal properties and heat storage velocity of composite phase change filter materials were discussed. The results show that adding n-eicosane lowers the spinnability of the compound spinning liquid, but with the increase of the content of n-eicosane, the spinnability and plasticity of the spinning solution are improved, the average fiber diameter increases, and the melting enthalpy of filter materials increases accordingly. When the mass ratio of n-eicosane to cellulose diacetate is 3 ∶10, the highest enthalpy efficiency of the filter material is 84. 1%. As the content of single-walled carbon nanotubes increases, the instantaneous heat absorption rate of the filter material increases. When the doping amount is 1. 0%, the instantaneous heat absorption rate of the filter material increases from 0. 062 ℃ / s of pure diacetate fiber filter material to 0. 202 ℃ / s.

    Influence of oxygen plasma modification on surface properties of polyimide fiber#br#

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  22-27.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180807006
    Abstract ( 36 )   PDF (2012KB) ( 16 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to enhance the interface adhesion performance, polyimide fiber was modified by oxygen plasma for different time periods and the influence of modification on the surface properties of polyimide fiber was analyzed by X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy, field emission scanning electron microscopy, single fiber fragmentation method and contact angle measurement. The results show that the surface properties of polyimide fibers are improved remarkably after 4 min treatment under the conditions of oxygen plasma modification with pressure of 10 Pa and power of 100 W. At the treatment conditions, the content ratio of O to C on the surface is increased by 108%, compared with untreated fibers. The contents of C—O and C??O increase from 7. 6% and 10. 3% to 20. 4% and 19. 2%, respectively. The surface micro-cracks are uniform and dense. The interfacial shear strength between fiber and resin increases from 29. 88 MPa to 46. 13 MPa,and its enhancement rate is 54%. And the hydrophobic surface is improved to hydrophilic surface, the contact angle reduces from about 110° to below 55°.

    Air filtration performance and morphological features of polyethylene glycol / polypropylene composite fibrous materials with embedded structure

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  28-34.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180807707
    Abstract ( 35 )   PDF (2961KB) ( 17 )   Save
    References | Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to develop micro-nanofibers fibrous with efficient air filtration performance, the micronanofiber fibrous nonwovens were formed by one step method of high speed hot gas flow drafting based on melt blown technology with polyethylene glycol/ polypropylene ( PEG/ PP ) as the materials. The relationships between fiber arrangement, fineness distribution, porosity and filtration efficiency, filtration resistance and mass factor were analyzed experimentally. Results show that the fibers with diameter less than
    800 nm are interspersed among fibers with diameter more than 4 000 nm, showing the embedded feature of the macro superposition in the direction of thickness and the micro quasi continuous branch in the horizontal direction. With the increasing of the PEG mass ratio from 0% to 8%, the fiber embedding rate of the fibers with diameter less than 800 nm increases from 0. 00% to 784. 66%. At the same time, the filtration efficiency increases by about 1.12 times and the mass factor shows a gradual increasing trend. It is shown that the embedded structure of the micro nanofiber material is beneficial to the capture of fine particles in the continuous fluid, which is helpful to improve capturing the fine particles in continuous fluids.

    Preparation of controllable ZnO nanoparticles on surface of nonwovens

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  35-41.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180805207
    Abstract ( 31 )   PDF (3395KB) ( 12 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to prepare ZnO composite photocatalytic material with good dispersibility, a one-step method was adopte to mix polypropylene spunbonded nonwoven fabric (PPEN) and zinc ammonium solution, influences ZnO nanoparticles with different morphologies and photocatalytic properties were loaded by direct precipitation. The influences of reaction temperature on the morphology, dispersibility, crystallization, thermal stability and photocatalytic properties of ZnO particles on the surface of the fibers
    were investigated by scanning electron microscopy, X-ray diffractometer ( XRD), thermogravimetric analyzer and UV-visible diffuse reflectance spectroscopy. The results show that rod-shaped ZnO microparticles are uniformly coated on the surface of the nonwoven fabric after treatment at 75 ℃, and the PPFN/ ZnO composites obtained at 75 ℃ have sharper peaks on the XRD chart than those obtained at 60 ℃ and 90 ℃, whose crystallinity is 88. 0%. Furthermore, its maximum degradation temperature
    increases from 287. 2 ℃ to 392. 9 ℃, with an increase of 105. 7 ℃, and the PPFN/ ZnO composites obtained at 75 ℃ has a degradation ratio of 96. 04% after photocatalytic degradation of methylene blue dye for 8 h.

    Influence of compact spinning air guide element shifting on compaction effect

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  42-47.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180601806
    Abstract ( 36 )   PDF (1984KB) ( 10 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    The air guide element of the third generation Rieter compact system shifts in production line, in order to analyze the influence to the compacting effect, five feature points including the center point, 1. 5 mm and 2. 5 mm shifting to left and right were selected. Fluent software were adopted to simulate the flow field and using CFD software to analyze the results of the simulation. Results show that the shift of 1. 5 mm and 2. 5 mm causes variation in airflow velocity and hydrostatic pressure. Spinning experiment verifies the simulation analysis results. It is concluded that when the shifts is 1. 5 mm, the yarn quality variation is small, but when the shifts is 2. 5 mm the yarn quality varies obviously, and the yarn evenness increases by 3% and hairiness increases by 8%.

    Color system construction of three-channel digital spinning mixed color yarn and performance analysis of colored yarn

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  48-55.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180906808
    Abstract ( 19 )   PDF (3142KB) ( 7 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to study the color development effect of colored fibers in the color spinning process, the mixing mode of the mixed color spinning was designed and the mixing effect was predicted. Using the three-channel ring digital spinning machine as the platform, the five primary colors of cyan ( C), magenta (M), yellow (Y), black (K) and white (W) were used as the primary color of the roving, and the hue, brightness and color of the color spinning were controlled by different mixed color spinning modes such as single channel, double channel and three channels. The mechanism of saturation gradient change was adopted to construct a mixed color chromatography system of CMYKW five primary fiber. The appearance of the mixed color yarns with red, yellow and cyan primary color brightness and saturation gradient was designed. Based on this, the spinning process was designed and six kinds of mixed color yarns with brightness and saturation gradient changes were produced. The strength, strip and hairiness of the six types of mixed yarns were tested, and the effects of the blending of the color fibers on the strength, the stem and the hairiness of the three-channel digital mixed yarn were analyzed. The results show that the complete chromatographic system can obtain the CMYK value of the target color intuitively and quickly, and improve the proofing efficiency of the color yarn. As the difference in blending ratio increases, the drying, breaking work and strength deterioration of the mixed yarn will be more serious, the beneficial hairiness will be reduced and the harmful hairiness will increase.

    Color rendering characteristics of fabric structure based on halftone design of image color

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  56-61.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181004806
    Abstract ( 27 )   PDF (6467KB) ( 11 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to overcome the restriction of color simulation design of jacquard fabric by the color rendering law of shaded weave database, a halftone design method of image color was proposed. The fabric samples were produced based on the halftone design of the grayscale with continuous tone by using three kinds of dot size and four arrangement angles. By the comparison and analysis of the fabric samples, it is shown that the greater the dot size of the halftone design, the more uniform of the lightness difference values of the fabric sample group, but the deficiency is the decrease of the detail performance of the original image while applying to the practical design. In the point of dot arrangement, the fabric structures with 15° and 75° angle are stable than that of the other two angles. Comparing the halftone fabric sample groups with a group of fabric samples using satin shaded weave databases, it is found that the discrete average of the lightness difference value of halftone fabric sample groups is 31. 94% lower than that of the latter, which indicating better color uniformity of the halftone design by image color.

    Color representation model for pre-colored fiber blends based on independent component features from mixed color space

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  62-69.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190403208
    Abstract ( 26 )   PDF (1323KB) ( 20 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to solve the problem that the overall coloration of dyed fibers in color spinning is difficult to describe accurately, an independent feature color analysis model based on mixed color space was established. The feature color analysis model was used to independently fuse the color components with the same properties in the two color spaces of Lab and HSV (hue saturation value), and construct a mixed color space. On this basis, third-order color moments and local texture statistical features were used
    to characterize and fuse the color information of the colored spun fabric images. Experimental results indicate that for the colored spun knitted fabrics and woven fabrics, the established color characterization model can not only effectively characterize the mass ratio change in a large range, but also accurately express the colorimetric index caused by the tiny adjustment of the dyed fiber, and the model has ideal
    robustness and generality.

    Study on braiding of knotless netting

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  70-74.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180706006
    Abstract ( 39 )   PDF (1496KB) ( 10 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to solve the problem of the poor quality or losing of fiber strength in the fabric due to the existing knotless netting production technology, the braiding technology of a new type knotless netting was studied. The knotless netting forming principle combining with its structure characteristic and the braiding principle was analyzed. With a kind of four-thread braided leg as the research object, the tracks of braiding net legs and net knots were designed. According to the form of the tracks, the rule of noncollision initial arrangement of spindles were studied. Finally, on the basis of this research, the rule of arrangement was extended with braiding multi-thread knotless netting by four multi-slot horn gears. The rule of non-collision initial arrangement of spindles was summarized and a limited number of feasible arrangement schemes was obtained. Then a knotless netting real object was braided adopting a feasible arrangement to verify the rationality of the braiding process. The results show that the moving path and the arrangement of spindle, and the specification of horn gears should be taken into account during the process of braiding knotless netting.

    Action mechanism of wearing pressure on electrocardiogram monitoring of woven fabric electrodes

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  75-82.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180804308
    Abstract ( 35 )   PDF (8018KB) ( 13 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to explore the effect of wear pressure on the quality of electrocardiogram(ECG) signals collected by textile structure ECG electrodes, four conductive fabric electrodes based on plain and satin structure were developed using silver-plated nylon tow and polyester, the performance of the fabric electrode was evaluated from skin-electrode contact resistance, comfort and the relationship between fabric resistance and wear pressure. The ECG signal acquisition performance of four different fabric electrodes under different wearing pressures(2,5,10 kPa) was also tested. The experimental results show that fabric electrodes with different structures are different in ECG signal acquisition capability and comfort under different wearing pressures. As the wear pressure increases, the surface resistance of the conductive fabric first decreases and then stabilizes, and the ECG signal quality is higher. The pure conductive satin structure fabric has better air permeability and moisture permeability, and the comfort ability is better than that of the plain structure fabric. The plain structure electrode shows better ECG signal quality under comfortable wear pressure (2, 5 kPa). 

    Scouring and bleaching of cotton fabric by low temperature near neutrality one-bath one-step process

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  83-90.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180806008
    Abstract ( 32 )   PDF (3631KB) ( 10 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to achieve a short pretreatment utilizing bio-enzyme for cotton fabric, the lowtemperature activated system based on sodium perborate/ tetraethylenediamine ( SPB/ TAED) was established. At the same time, both cellulase and pectinase were added into SPB/ TAED system. Influences of the type and dosage of bio-enzyme, dosage of SPB/ TAED, process duration and temperature on whiteness index (WI) and capillary effect (CE) of the fabric were investigated by the variable-controlling method. It can be found that good compatibility exists between bio-scouring and SPB/ TAED bleaching. An optimized process is obtained as follows: cellulase 1 g/ L, pectinase 2 g/ L, SPB 15 g/ L, TAED 25 g/ L, penetrating agent 1 g/ L, duration of 60 min and temperature of 60 ℃. In comparison with the conventional process carried out at 95 ℃ using peroxide and strong alkali (pH 12- 13), the optimized low-temperature process has an obvious advantage in saving energy. The WI, wettability and dyeability are similar for the fabrics pretreated by the low-temperature and conventional high-temperature process. The breaking force, however, treated by low-temperature process is higher, and the surface of such pretreated fabrics is smoother and cleaner.

    Influence of pretreatment process on superhydrophobic modification of wool / polyester fabric

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  91-96.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180907606
    Abstract ( 36 )   PDF (4705KB) ( 9 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    The surface of wool and polyester fibers in wool/ polyester fabrics does not have enough chemical reactive sites, which lead to difficult chemical modification and also restrict the superhydrophobic performance of wool/ polyester fabrics. Therefore, wool/ polyester fabrics were irradiated with ultraviolet firstly, then hydrogen peroxide was adopted to pretreat wool/ polyester fabrics, and silica was adopted to hydrophobically modify wool/ polyester fabrics. The influence of superhydrophobic 
    modification of cotton/ polyester fabrics by pretreatment process were explored by the static contact angle test, scanning electron microscopy and wool fiber surface scale analysis. The results show that when fabrics are treated by UV irradiation and then oxidized by hydrogen peroxide, water repellent films of wool surfaces are eliminated by ultraviolet irradiation, and after hydrogen peroxide treatment, scale structure of wool surfaces is further damaged, wool surface exposes more chemical reaction sites, therefore, coverage of silicon particles on the fibers surface is improved to endut wool fabrics with superhydrophobic properties.

    Influence of plasma pretreatment on structure and properties of polypyrrole / polyester warp knitted conductive fabric

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  97-101.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180702105
    Abstract ( 40 )   PDF (1859KB) ( 13 )   Save
    References | Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to improve the adhesion effect of conductive polymer on polyester warp knitted fabric, the surface of the fabric was modified by atmospheric pressure plasma treatment, and the conductive knitted fabric was prepared by in-situ polymerization. The influence of plasma pretreatment on the adhesion of polypyrrole to polyester knitted fabrics was studied. The micro-morphology of conductive fabrics was observed by a scanning electron microscopy, and the square resistance of conductive fabrics before and after flat grinding was measured by a resistometer. The results show that plasma pretreatment can increase the adhesion of polypyrrole to polyester fibers, improve the adhesion fastness of polypyrrole to polyester fibers, and improve the retention of conductive layers of conductive fabrics in flat grinding. The results are related to the times of plasma pretreatments. The adhesion effect of polypyrrole on polyester knitted fabrics is the best when the times of plasma pretreatment is 4.

    Preparation of fluorine-free water repellent treated wool / cashmere fabrics

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  102-107.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180403106
    Abstract ( 41 )   PDF (1555KB) ( 14 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to improve the self-cleaning ability of wool/ cashmere (60/40) fabrics and reduce the adverse effects of fabric shrinkage caused by cleaning, the fabric surface was pretreated by atmospheric pressure plasma. Then, the micro/ zirconium nano-sized acetylacetonate and polydimethylsiloxane were adopted to prepare the fluorine free environment-friendly fabric water repellent agent for electrostatic spraying and hydrophobic treatment. By analyzing the static contact angle change and the infrared test
    results of original sample and plasma-treaded sample, the best plasma treatment parameters and the effect of fabric shrinkage were found. The original sample, plasma-treaded sample and plasma-treaded with hydrophobically treated sample were compared in the morphology, static contact angle, moisture permeability and ultraviolet resistance. The study reveals that the hydrophobic sample finished by electrostatic spraying after plasma treatment exhibits excellent hydrophobicity. The static contact angle
    increases to 152°, which reaches the super hydrophobic critical value. The moisture permeability and air permeability of the fabric decrease by only 2. 98% and 1. 65%, and the shrinkage of the fabric decreases by 4. 61%. Moreover,this method assists in increasing the ultraviolet protection of the fabric by 14. 14%.

    Influence of nano-foam finishing on properties of aramid filter materials

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  108-113.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180904906
    Abstract ( 25 )   PDF (3037KB) ( 6 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to improve the filtration efficiency of the aramid filter material, the polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) aqueous emulsion was used as the main raw material to conduct coating treatment on the surface of aramid filter material by foam coating method. The influence of foam coating on the structure, friction resistance, air permeability, pore size, hydrophobicity, acid and alkali resistance, and the filtration performance of the filter material were studied. The test results show that a dense film is formed on the surface of the filter after foamed coating. With the increase of the amount of ceramic powder, the foaming effect of the coating solution becomes better, and film formed on the surface of the filter material is denser. Besides, the friction resistance performance of filter material is improved as well as the air permeability slightly decreases. The coating treatment not only improves the acid and alkali resistance and ash removal performance of the filter material and prolonged its service life, but also reduces dust attachment. The filtration performance test shows that the filtration efficiency of the filter material after coating has a remarkable improvement, and the filtration efficiency for the particulate matter above 1 μm increases from 39. 1% to 60%, and particulate matter above 10 μm is filtrated by 100%.

    Performance and regulation of hydrophilic oil agent for polyethylene-polypropylene nonwoven fabrics

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  114-121.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180900108
    Abstract ( 21 )   PDF (1353KB) ( 4 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In view of the relationship between the compatibility of surfactants and the hydrophilicity of polyethylene-polypropylene (ES) nonwoven fabrics in the development of hydrophilic oil agents, the experimental methods such as steady-state fluorescence quenching method, video contact angle measuring instrument and liquid penetration time measuring instrument were adopted to detect surface tension of the oil or surfactant solution, the number of micelles, the particle size distribution of the aggregates, the dynamic contact angle of the polyethylene ( PE) interface. The surfactant structure and synergistic compatibility with the multiple permeable time of the ES nonwoven fabric were discussed, and the comprehensive properties of hydrophilic oil agents were measured. The results show that the high surface activity of the hydrophilic oil agent, the appropriate HLB value, and the large number of micelle aggregation are beneficial to improve the hydrophilicity of the ES nonwoven fabric. The permeable time of 3 times is shorter than 3 s, the moisture resistance is less than 0. 13 g, and the surface specific resistance is less than 3. 0 × 108 Ω·cm after ES nonwoven fabric is modified by oil agent, which satisfy the requirements of the covering materials used for sanitary products.

    Preparation and application of polyacrylate / rhodamine B composite latex by miniemulsion polymerization

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  122-127.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181205906
    Abstract ( 22 )   PDF (1492KB) ( 5 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to improve the stability of rhodamine B in water, polyacrylate/ rhodamine B composite latex was prepared by miniemulsion polymerization and the property of polyacrylate/ rhodamine B composite latex was also discussed. The particle size, Zeta potential, morphological structure and fluorescenct performance of rhodamine B solution and composite latex were tested by particle size analysis, transmission electron microscopy, X-ray diffractometry and fluorescence spectrometry, respectively. The influences of composite latex mass percent and binder mass percent on the fluorescent properties of cotton fabrics were discussed as application of polyacrylate/ rhodamine B composite latex on the cotton fabrics by scraping. It is found that the average particle size and Zeta potential of polyacrylate/ rhodamine B composite latex are 86. 2 nm and -54. 7 mV, respectively. The dispersion stability and fluorescent performance of composite latex are enhanced. The K / S values and fluorescent reflectance of
    cotton fabrics are higher, and the washing fastness and rubbing fastness reaches grade 4 and 3-4 under the condition of the mass percent of latex 10% and the binder mass percent of latex 20%, respectively.

    Analysis on blue dyes in She costumes by ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography-diode array detection-tandem mass spectrometry

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  128-135.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180803008
    Abstract ( 28 )   PDF (1821KB) ( 7 )   Save
    References | Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to identify blue dye components of the She costume, four historical textiles in the Chinese She Museum were characterized by ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography-diode array detection-quadrupole time-of-flight tandem mass spectrometry. By means of separation of extractive solution by ultrahigh performance liquid chromatography, the qualitative analysis of dyestuff was carried out according to the retention time, the exact molecular mass of the compound and the UV-visible absorption spectrum, from high resolution time-of-flight mass spectrometry data and spectral data collected by diode array detector. The results show that all the blue samples are dyed by indigo blue. According to the background of these cultural relics, the natural indigo and synthetic indigo dyes are probably both used in Lishui area at the end of the Qing Dynasty. The synthetic indigo dyed yarn might be introduced to She people in Jingning area in the early 20th century. The natural indigo dye is still used by She people in Jingning after the founding of the People′s Republic of China.

    Decolorization pretreatment method of quality inspection extraction solution based on nanofiltration technology

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  136-142.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180904807
    Abstract ( 20 )   PDF (1272KB) ( 11 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to improve the efficiency and accuracy of formaldehyde detection of textiles and leathers, based on the interfacial polymerization, polyamide and inorganic particles prepared by St?ber method was adopted to prepare organic-inorganic hybrid nanofiltration membranes for the decolorization pretreatment of textiles and leathers extract. The particle morphology, surface elements of nanofiltration membranes and contact angle of separation layer were analyzed by using scanning electron microscopy, Xray photoelectron spectrometry and contact angle metering, respectively. The separation performance of nanofiltration membranes was investigated by pure water flux, inorganic salt and dye retention. The recoveries of formaldehyde detection in textiles and leathers by nanofiltration decoloring pretreatment were also analyzed. Results show that the silicon and silver ion modified silica with uniform particle size are successfully loaded on the nanofiltration membrane separation layer, and the separation layer has good
    hydrophilicity. The pure water flux of the nanofiltration membrane is improved by virtue of the addition of a moderate amount of particles. The silver ion modified silica improves the entrapment performance of nanofiltration membrane for salt with bivalent cation and cationic dye, and the recoveries meet the requirements of formaldehyde detection of textiles and leathers.

    Development of personalized female prototype based on three-dimensional measurement data

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  143-149.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180908607
    Abstract ( 41 )   PDF (2870KB) ( 29 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to solve the problem of fitness in personalized pattern technology, a new method to generate personalized female′s prototype based on three-dimensional measurement was proposed. Firstly, a female with standard stature was randomly selected and the body size was scanned. Then, the threedimensional body model was fitted with digital mannequin based on the rule of the body feature points to obtain the personalized digital mannequin. The digital mannequin was from Creacompo Ⅱ Torso in TORAY software system. Next, the TORAY software was adopted to divide and flatten the digital human mannequin referring to the feature lines and the flattening vector graph was obtained later. Finally the rules of the personalized female prototype was established according to two-dimensional flattening vector graphs. The personalized prototype was tested well display and verified the feasibility of this prototype generation method. This study provides an effective measure for the generation of personalized female′s
    pattern, which also enrich the theory of the two-dimensional prototype generation from three-dimensional human model.

    Diagram of biarc and its application in design of garment seam outline

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  150-158.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180908309
    Abstract ( 97 )   PDF (1452KB) ( 63 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to solve randomness and excessive reliance on empirical components in the design of clothing seams outline, realize the parameterization of the clothing seams outline, and construct the basic theory of biarc for the design of the clothing seams outline, the concept of the tangent length ratio to ensure the smoothness of the clothing seams outline was put forward based on the analyses of the geometrical relations of the biarc starting and ending points and the trajectory of the connecting points, the type and composition of the biarc in each interval under different conditions by graph method. The selection method of biarc connection points for the design of clothing seams outline and the drawing method of biarc were given. Based on this, the practical application of front and rear crotch seam lines and rear lateral seam lines of trousers with C type and S type biarc designs was carried out. The results show that the design of the seam line by biarc curve is simple and feasible, and the shape is round and reliable. It is convenient not only to accurately grasp the shape of the seam outline during manual garment pattern making, but also to perform the parametric design of the garment template using the AutoCAD parameter function.

    Influence of sports bra structural elements on wearing comfort

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  159-166.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181005708
    Abstract ( 53 )   PDF (1623KB) ( 32 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to explore the wearing comfort of sports bra′s structural elements, 7 female volunteers with 75B types were measured by Martin measurement before and after wearing 6 sports bras with low, medium and high strength recommended. Static pressure test was conducted by the balloon pressure tester with subjective comfort assessment of nine pressure points on the chest, back, shoulder, side, and lower chest circumference of human body. Moreover, the changes of the displacement of the marking line at the lower webbing, shoulder strap, clip bending and neckline before and after the movement were observed. By the analysis, the low-intensity sports bra has higher comfort and smaller pressure at each point. But the high-intensity sports bra has more restraint on the left and right, and the anterior and posterior directions of the breast. The lower webbing and cup slip upward, the shoulder strap slip to the inside of the neck, the structure of the back and clip of the bra are stable with the smaller slip amount after the movement. The high-intensity sports bra should focus on optimizing the structural elements of the shoulder strap, the back clip bending curve and the lower webbing, reducing the pressure on the shoulder, the lower bust and the back, and improving the overall wearing comfort.

    Data consistency and replaceability based on different human measurement methods

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  167-172.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181005606
    Abstract ( 34 )   PDF (947KB) ( 18 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to explore consistency and substitutability between human data results obtained by three-dimensional (3-D) scanners and manual data as well as the data equivalence between the results obtained by different scanners, this paper used HumanSolutions and [TC]2 3-D scanners to scan the samples of women between the ages of 20-35, and 30 somatotype indexes of 388 samples were manually measured by Rapidform XOR3. The consistency of the 3-D data and their corresponding manual data were checked using line chart and intraclass correlation coefficient (abbreviate it to ICC). The replaceability of the data were checked according to the national standard. With manual data as a medium, the data consistency and replaceability between two kinds of 3-D data and the real size value were compared to judge the equivalence of different 3-D data. The results show that good consistency exists between 3-D data and manual data(ICC >0. 75), and the three data of Human Solutions 3-D scan, [TC]2 3-D scanning and manual measurement are replaceable on partial measurement terms, and can be used equivalently in data processing and analysis.

    Parameter characteristics of weft insertion mechanism of rapier loom capable of simply adjusting reed width

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  173-179.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180900907
    Abstract ( 32 )   PDF (2276KB) ( 11 )   Save
    References | Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to simplify the adjustment process of cloth width in rapier loom, a new design criterion for weft insertion mechanism was proposed by researching the relationship between the rapier position and actions of assistant devices, which means the weft insertion mechanism should be designed with unchanged rapier displacement outside of the shed (assistant displacement) and unchanged rapier position where weft is handed over during the process of adjusting reed width. Based on vector analysis
    method, the motion equations of a weft insertion mechanism containing a spatial linkage and a planer linkage were derived, and the rapier motion curve was obtained. The influences on rapier motion curve were discussed from sub mechanisms. The result shows that certain weft insertion mechanism exists, and when its original position satisfies a certain condition, regardless of the changes in cloth width, the assistant displacement of rapier stays unchanged. When the guider of point used for adjusting the reed
    width meets a certain condition, the rapier position where weft is handed over keeps in the same site.

    Magnetic driving design and modeling for knitting needles of computerized flat knitting machine

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  180-185.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180904106
    Abstract ( 34 )   PDF (1547KB) ( 22 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to reduce heat, vibration and needle breakage during knitting process of computerized flat knitting machine, a non-contact needles driving method that permanent magnet knitting needles were driven by electromagnet array was proposed. At the same time, a new type of magnetic drive flat knitting machine structure with separate needle and drive was designed. By equivalent the elements of iron core, permanent magnet and air gap in the electromagnet array to magnetoresistance and magnetic potential, the equivalent magnetic circuit model of permanent magnet knitting needle driven by electromagnetic array was established. Then, by analyzing the flux of the equivalent magnetic circuit model of the electromagnet array moving horizontally to and fro, the magnetic force model of the permanent magnet knitting needle under different displacements of the electromagnet array was deduced. Thus, the force values of knitting needles under different conditions can be calculated. Maxwell electromagnetic simulation software was adopted to simulate the magnetic drive model, the data of the equivalent magnetic circuit model and the simulation model were compared and analyzed, and the validity of the equivalent magnetic circuit model was verified.

    Prediction of relationship between shoulder strap attribute and breast amplitude of sports bra by BP neural network

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  186-0191.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20181001406
    Abstract ( 35 )   PDF (1180KB) ( 34 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    In order to determine the influence of 3 properties of the sports bras shoulder straps on breast amplitudes during running, the motions of breast markers were attached in 6 different left breast positions of 8 subjects, and different shoulder straps were replaced for the human motion testing. The 3-D coordinates of the breast markers were recorded, and the amplitudes of the breast motion were obtained. The weight relationship between the 3 properties of the shoulder straps and the breast amplitude was determined by using the BP neural network model to replace different model parameters. The results show that when the transmission function of BP neural network is tansig function, the number of implicit layer neurons is 21, and the training function is traingdm as the network parameters, the breast amplitude values of the network fitting is close to the true values of the breast motion to 99. 44%. The weights and thresholds of the network input to the hidden layer and the hidden to the output layer are respectively obtained under the network parameters. The positive inference relationship between 3 kinds of properties of the shoulder straps and the breast amplitudes can be obtained.

    Common cognitive evaluation method for fashion visual scenes

    Journal of Textile Research. 2019, 40(09):  192-196.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180908005
    Abstract ( 34 )   PDF (8245KB) ( 16 )   Save
    Related Articles | Metrics

    As the eye tracker lacks the common cognitive evaluation for visual scenes of clothing and accessories, a comprehensive evaluation method of visual hot map based on image fusion was proposed. 7 Subjects′ eye movements were tracked by desktop eye-tracker, and the hot maps were timely recorded while observing 60 different types of representative fashion images. For each vision scene, binary images of hot maps were intersection and overlay processed, and were formed as a visual luminance map.
    Besides, the visual drift as a critical indicator was proposed. The results show that the proposed visual cognitive indicator can effectively eliminate individual errors, visually display subjects′ common visual focus area, which can fill the blank of current multi-user visual focus cognitive evaluation.