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Fabrication and oil absorbency of superhydrophobic and elastic silk fibroin fibrils aerogel YANG Qiliang, YANG Haiwei, WANG Dengfeng, LI Changlong, ZHANG Lele, WANG Zongqian Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (09): 1-10.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220408901 Abstract （377）   HTML （110）    PDF （26590KB）（352）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Silk fibroin (SF) aerogels prepared by conventional regeneration-dissolution process generally suffer from poor mechanical elasticity, resulting in weak oil absorption performance of the hydrophobically modified SF aerogels. This research aims to prepare highly elastic SF-based aerogels with excellent oil absorption properties for practical applications by using SF micro-nanofibrils (SMNF) aerogels as carriers, following the hydrophobic modification. Method The SMNF aerogels were fabricated by a freeze-induced assembly process using low-melting solvent liquid-phase exfoliated SMNF as precursors. Subsequently, the SMNF aerogel was hydrophobically modified by a methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) chemical vapor deposition strategy. The microstructure, element distribution and mechanical properties of MTMS modified SMNF (MS) aerogel were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, energy dispersive spectroscopy, infrared spectroscopy and universal material testing machine. Meanwhile, the oil absorbency of MS aerogel was systematically studied. Results The urea/guanidine hydrochloride deep eutectic solvent liquid-phase exfoliated SMNF retained the micro-nanoscale fibril structures of natural silk fibers (Fig.1), facilitating the construction of highly elastic SF aerogels. The resulting MS aerogel was characterized by hierarchical cellular architectures (Fig. 2), which endowed it with low density (5.36 mg/cm3) and high porosity (99.63%). The MS aerogel exhibited high compressi-bility (15.72 kPa at a strain of 80%) and superior fatigue resilience (over 81% relative height retention after 100 cycles) (Fig. 4). The results of energy dispersive spectroscopy and infrared spectroscopy confirmed that the siloxane network structures were formed on the aerogel surface after MTMS modification (Fig. 3), endowing SMNF aerogel with superhydrophobicity (water contact angle of 150.9°) (Fig. 5). Consequently, MS aerogels demonstrated strong absorption capacity for various oil agents with the oil absorption capacity of 84.48-188.75 g/g (Fig. 7). More importantly, owing to the high elasticity and stable skeleton structure, MS aerogel displayed excellent repeatable oil absorption performance (Fig. 8, Fig. 9). Conclusion Highly elastic and superhydrophobic MS aerogels were fabricated by urea/guanidine hydrochloride low eutectic solvent liquid phase exfoliation, freeze-induced assembly, and MTMS chemical vapor deposition modification. The assembled MS aerogels were characterized by hierarchical fibril networks and hierarchical cellular structures, which endowed MS aerogels with exceptional properties, including low density, high porosity and superelastic performance. Benefiting from the above features, the superelastic and superhydrophobic MS aerogel not only showed strong absorb ability to various oil agents, but also had excellent repeated oil absorption performance. This work provides a reliable approach for the fabrication of highly elastic and superhydrophobic SF aerogels and endows application prospects in oil absorption opportunities. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Review of new dyeing technologies for reactive dyes and disperse dyes WU Wei, JI Bolin, MAO Zhiping Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 1-12.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230200802 Abstract （374）   HTML （78）    PDF （4337KB）（403）       Knowledge map    Save Significance Although dyeing is an important technique to give color to textiles, it also depletes resources and creates a lot of pollution. Reactive and disperse dyes are the most widely used dyes for coloring cellulose and polyester fibers, respectively. The output of two dyes accounts for more than 70% of the total output of dyes. However, reactive dyeing has problems with insufficient dye utilization, excessive use of inorganic salts, and high wastewater discharge. Meanwhile, the reduction cleaning step in the disperse dyeing process uses a lot of water and energy. The dispersants and unfixed dyes which are washed off in the reduction cleaning step will cause more difficulty in treating wastewater. Therefore, innovative dyeing techniques of two dyes that can solve these problems were reviewed in this paper. Progress In order to reduce the usage amount of inorganic salts in reactive dyeing technology, researchers developed a series of methods to increase the affinity of dyes and fibers, such as cationic modifications and designing macromolecular dyes. In order to improve the utilization of dyes, the wet pickup of the fabric was controlled at a low level to reduce the hydrolysis of reactive dyes. The low wet pickup dyeing technologies are foam dyeing, vacuum-dewatering aided pad-steam dyeing, spray dyeing and ″moisture fixation″ dyeing. Organic solvent (ethanol, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, silicone oil) /water mixed solvent, liquid ammonia, and organic mixed solvent (dimethyl sulfoxide/dimethyl carbonate) were used as dyeing media to reduce the wastewater discharge. In order to solve the problem of low dyeing efficiency and high material consumption of rope dyeing, open-width dyeing technology for the cotton knitted fabric was developed. For disperse dyeing techniques, the first advancement is the development of alkali-resistant disperse dyes, which were created to solve the problem of water and energy usage during the reduction cleaning process. Owing to the same alkaline conditions, the pre-treatment and soap-washing procedures can also be combined with alkaline dyeing technology to increase production effectiveness. Secondly, the polymer dispersants with low molecular weights, no matter the synthesized copolymer anions or modified biomass polymers, were designed to make the dyes maintain nanoscales in water by grinding. Thus, the nano-scale liquid disperse dyes were prepared to improve the dyeing uptake and reduce loose color. With the use of microcapsule shells, the non-reduction clearing effect is achieved through the adhesion on the surface of the fabrics. Finally, non-aqueous media such as supercritical carbon dioxide fluid or organic solvents (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, liquid paraffin) are used for dyeing to save water consumption. Conclusion and Prospect To sum up, the development of the two dyeing technologies focused on reducing the use of chemicals and wastewater emission, improving the utilization rate of dyes, and improving the efficiency of dyeing production. The use of reactive dyes with little or no salt has the problem of poor dyeing levelness or color fastness. For the wet pickup dyeing technology, the main direction of future research is to control the uniformity of dyeing and improve the color fixation rate to the highest level. The directions that need to be explored include the adaptability of open-width dyeing technology for knitted cotton textiles to thin fabric and the enhancement of process stability. Alkaline dyeing, nano liquid disperse dyeing and non-reduction clearing dyeing technologies have basically reached the industrial level, but it is still necessary to improve the categories of dyeable fabrics and improve the dyeing quality. It still needs to keep developing the theoretical framework and supporting equipment for less-water or non-aqueous dyeing technologies, whether they use reactive or disperse dyeing systems. In the future, reactive and disperse dyeing technologies continue to advance in a green and consumption-reduction direction, which will encourage the textile dyeing and printing industry to achieve the ″carbon dioxide emissions peak and carbon neutrality″ target as soon as feasible. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Current status and prospect of intelligent development in textile industry ZHENG Xiaohu, LIU Zhenghao, CHEN Feng, ZHANG Jie, WANG Junliang Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (08): 205-216.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220305802 Abstract （283）   HTML （50）    PDF （8758KB）（275）       Knowledge map    Save Significance With the start of a new round of technological revolution and industrial advancement, China's textile industry has stepped into a new stage of high-quality development. This paper provides a comprehensive overview of the development and application of artificial intelligence technology in the textile industry and explores the tasks and goals of future intelligent development. Based on the latest global developments in digitalization, networking, and intelligence in the textile industry, it analysed the current technical challenges and summarised the key technologies urgently needed in the textile industry. Typical application cases and production models were introduced such as whole-process intelligent textile production lines, intelligent operation and maintenance of textile equipment, and intelligent textile testing. The core technological challenges facing the Chinese textile industry and the development directions of the industrial ecology were to be reviewed. Ideas on developing a new generation of textile-intelligent manufacturing systems and creating an intelligent textile ecology with the collaboration of the whole industrial chain were presented. Progress At this stage, the Chinese textile industry intelligent manufacturing is in a critical period of digital, networked, and intelligent development (Fig. 1). The critical technologies related to the intelligence of the textile industry are developing rapidly, and big-data technology for the whole textile production process is being applied rapidly (Fig. 2). Digital-twin technology in the textile industry is applied to intelligent garment design and intelligent textile factories (Fig. 3 and Fig. 4). As automated equipment replaces manual labor in typical textile processes, robots in the textile industry have become an essential part of intelligent production. Machine vision technology based on deep learning plays a role in the intelligent control of textile equipment and intelligent inspection of textile quality scenarios (Fig. 5). Intelligent scheduling technology based on machine learning effectively improves the production efficiency of textile enterprises. Based on these technologies, typical examples of intelligent applications in the textile industry have emerged. A data-driven intelligent operation and maintenance system for high-speed winders (Fig. 6), enables data-based intelligent fault diagnosis and remaining life prediction of equipment. The "edge-cloud" collaborative fabric defect detection system enables the detection and identification of a wide range of fabric defects. Xinfengming Group realizes the intelligence of the whole production chain based on 5G and product identification resolution technology (Fig. 7). Wuhan Yudahua's 100000-spindle full-process intelligent spinning line solves the discontinuity problem between some of the ring spinning processes, with an automation rate of over 95% (Fig. 8). Conclusion and Prospect China's textile industry has made a breakthrough in digitalizing equipment, networking, and workshop intelligence. Significant progress has been made in improving quality and efficiency and optimizing the industrial structure. However, a series of standards system for intelligent manufacturing in the textile industry has yet to be established. In the field of cotton spinning, for example, there are still breakpoints in the automated production of the whole process. The quality traceability of the whole process of product production needs to be strengthened. Data processing and other software are primarily selected from general software developed by information technology developers, which is challenging to meet the precise professional needs of spinning enterprises. The core equipment and industrial software in the field of textiles have not yet formed the technical support capacity, from the true meaning of "intelligent" still has a large gap. The intelligent textile ecology of the whole industrial chain needs to be established. Developing a new generation of intelligent textile manufacturing systems should be based on the study of intelligent textile process, intelligent textile equipment as the focus of development, and intelligent equipment collaboration as the core. At the same time, through the construction of a textile innovative factory demonstration production model, the development of critical technologies of the textile industry Internet, the construction of a blockchain-based networked collaborative rapid response service system, the creation of the whole industry chain collaborative textile intelligent ecology, improve the rapid response service capacity, to achieve the development of the textile industry multi-cluster synergy. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Research progress in zinc and copper containing wound dressings QIN Yimin Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 213-219.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211101502 Abstract （272）   HTML （10）    PDF （3194KB）（197）       Knowledge map    Save Significance In order to develop the applications of functional zinc and copper containing fibers and wound dressings in the management of chronic wounds, this paper introduced the bioactivities of zinc and copper ions and their roles in the wound healing process, and summarized the types and production methods of zinc and copper containing wound dressings in the domestic and international market, in particular zinc and copper containing alginate fibers, chitosan fibers, and the various types of zinc and copper containing wound dressings and their ion releasing properties obtained by electrospinning, polymeric composites, nano technologies and other advanced processing methods. Both zinc and copper ions possess antimicrobial efficacy and are known to be able to promote wound healing. The incorporation of these two metal ions by the techniques reviewed in this paper can help manufacturers and medical practitioners in the wound management industry to fully utilize the novel health benefitting properties of zinc and copper ions. Progress Both zinc and copper ions have been used in the wound management industry for a long time by many forms of applications. Recent progresses are mainly focused in the sustainable release of zinc and copper ions by combining these two ions with alginate, chitosan and other novel substrate materials, and also by the use of nanoparticles of zinc oxide and copper oxide. The incorporation of zinc ions into alginate fibers and the subsequent release of zinc ions when in contact with aqueous solutions containing different levels of protein were summarized. The composition and properties of many types of zinc containing wound dressings reported in the documents were summarized. Regarding copper containing wound dressings, important progress has been made by incorporating copper oxide into fibers by blending and the subsequent extrusion to form copper containing fibers. In addition, copper ions can be absorbed into various types of alginate fibers that can be released when these fibers are in contact with aqueous solutions similar to wound exudate. Many other methods have been used in the documents to load and release copper ions from the base materials of wound dressings. The combination of zinc and copper ions with wound dressings have demonstrated important clinical benefits by accelerating the healing of burns and chronic wounds. Zinc and copper containing fibers and wound dressings possess antimicrobial properties similar to silver containing fibers and wound dressings. Conclusion and Prospect Zinc and copper ions are minor metal ions present in the human body and are closely involved in the function of many enzymes during the wound healing process. The loss of zinc ions are well known for the delayed healing of burn wounds. Copper ions are also shown to be able to promote the healing of chronic wounds such as leg ulcers and pressure sores. The overall results of this review showed that zinc and copper ions have excellent antimicrobial properties and can promote wound healing. Experimental results have confirmed that zinc and copper containing wound dressings have strong antibactenal effect against the various types of bacteria commonly present in wounds, and these dressings are highly useful in the management of leg ulcer, pressure sore, diabetic foot ulcer, burn and other types of wounds. Looking into the future, much research and development work is still needed to clarify the wound healing mechanism of these two metal ions. In addition, clinical research and formal clinical trials are also required to validate the clinical efficacy of zinc and copper containing wound dressings before these products can be commercialized. Regulatory approval procedures are also needed through the collaborative efforts of researchers, manufacturers, regulatory bodies and medical practioners around the world. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Preparation method of and anti-dripping and flame retardant properties of polycaprolactam 6 composite resin based on homotriazine ring structure ZHANG Wenqi, LI Lili, HU Zexu, WEI Lifei, XIANG Hengxue, ZHU Meifang Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (11): 1-8.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220506001 Abstract （216）   HTML （30）    PDF （5024KB）（148）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Polycaprolactam 6 (PA6) is a polymer material widely used in daily life, but it is flammable. High-temperature oxidation during combustion process would cause its molecular chain to break, resulting in problems such as continuous combustion and melt dripping. At present, charring technology has become an important means to solve these problems. The homotriazine ring flame retardant has excellent charring performance by virtue of its conjugated stable structure, which has greatest potential to solve the problem of PA6 flame retardant. Method Triazine flame retardant forms a carbon layer on the polymer surface to resist the further combustion of flame, hence improving the flame retardancy of PA6. Triazine ring structure also has certain structural compatibility with PA6 molecular chain, which would not affect the processing and mechanical properties of PA6. Therefore, homotriazine ring flame retardant (CFA) was added to PA6 by melt blending to improve the flame retardancy of PA6. The charring performance of the PA6 composite resin was studied through the thermal experiment. By examining the limiting oxygen index, vertical combustion and cone calorimetry experiment, the influence on the flame retardant and charring property on PA6 resin was studied, which was used for explaining the mechanism of the CFA flame retardant. Results In this research, a series of composite resin were prepared by melt blending CFA flame retardant and PA6. After adding 8% CFA flame retardant to PA6 resin, the vertical combustion rating reached V-0 level, the limiting oxygen index increased from 24.5% to 33.4% (Tab. 1 and Fig. 2), and the total smoke release decreased by 13.3% (Fig. 3), suggesting the effectiveness of CFA in many aspects. The charring rate of CFA flame retardant itself in the air atmosphere reached 8.3%, and the charring rate of PA6 composite resin after adding 10% CFA was more than twice that of pure PA6, from 1.87% to 4.84% (Fig. 4), because of better isolation to oxygen and heat. By analyzing the four decomposition processes of CFA flame retardants in a nitrogen gasatmosphere, it was found that the charring performance of CFA was mainly by virtue of the tertiary nitrogen structure contained, and a stable carbon layer were be formed during the high-temperature process, thereby improving the high-temperature formation of the composites (Fig. 5). In order to understand the effectiveness of the flame retardant carbon structure, the structure of residual carbon and the composition of decomposition gas were analyzed. Compared with the carbon layer formed by the series of PA6 samples, it was revealed that the addition of CFA made the carbon layer rougher. When the mass fraction of CFA reaches more than 8%, the carbon layer began to become smooth again, facilitating effective protection to the internal PA6, thereby improving heat insulation and dripping resistance of PA6 composite resin (Fig. 6). The gas phase flame retardant mechanism was also found playing a role in improving the flame retardancy of PA6 resin (Fig. 8). Based on the above analysis, it was believed that good flame retardancy of PA6 composite resin is mainly because of the dilution effect of non-combustible gases in the gas phase and the barrier effect of the carbon layer in the condensed phase in the combustion process. The addition of CFA flame retardant did not lead to a decrease in the tensile break strength of PA6, but rather improved it. When the mass fraction of CFA was 8%, the tensile break strength of PA6 composite resin increased by 28.8%. Conclusion After studying the performance of flame retardant PA6, It was found that CFA greatly increased the limiting oxygen index and vertical combustion of flame retardant PA6, and decreased smoke emission. CFA flame retardant can also improve the smoke suppression effect of PA6 to a certain extent, and enhance the tensile strength of PA6, greatly expanding the application range of PA6. The experimental results also verified the good compatibility between CFA and PA6 molecular chains. The research on PA6 flame retardant mechanism needs be further studied to improve the flame retardancy of PA6. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Preparation and properties of photocatalytic self-cleaning aramid fabrics WEI Yuhui, ZHENG Chen, CHENG Erxiao, ZHAO Shuhan, SU Zhaowei Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 171-176.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220508001 Abstract （215）   HTML （12）    PDF （5383KB）（75）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Fire-fighting clothing worn by fire-fighters is easy to absorb stains, in fire-fighting action, caused by the burning of rubber, textiles and other inflammable substances and other reasons. Researches on fire-fighting clothing mainly focus on the development of highly-flame-retardant fibers, fabrics and clothing, whilst the self-cleaning performance of fire-fighting fabrics is basically ignored. In addition, improper or excessive washing could easily deteriorate the protective performance. Therefore, development of self-cleaning aramid fabric is important to reduce the deterioration of protective performance caused by washing and to prolong the service life of the fire-fighting clothing. Method In order to improve the self-cleaning properties of aramid fabric, TiO2 with stable and good photocatalytic effect, SiO2 aerogel (super-hydrophobic interface) with high porosity and easily form three-dimensional micro-structure, metal ion (Fe), tetraethoxysilane, butyl titanate, polydimethylsiloxane, butyl ferrate, and N-hexane were selected to treat the fabric. One-step spraying method was applied to prepare the photocatalytic self-cleaning aramid fabric. In order to enhance the firmness, the mixed solution of N,N-dimethyl hexamide (DMAC) and water was adopted to dissolve the aramid fabric surface. The differences in surface morphology, chemical structure, hydrophobicity, self-cleaning, photocatalysis, gas permeability and flame retardancy before and after treatment were systematically investigated. Results The differences in the properties of aramid fabric before and after the treatment by SiO2-TiO2-Fe composite aerogel was found to be significant. In the aspect of morphology, the surface of the untreated aramid fabric was smooth without obvious attachment. On the contrary, the surface of aramid fabric treated with PDMS/SiO2-TiO2-Fe composite aerogel demonstrated increased roughness, with a layer of granular material uniformly attached to the surface. This shows the effectiveness of PDMS/SiO2-TiO2-Fe treatment to the aramid fabric surface. In the aspect of micromorphology, compared with the infrared spectra of untreated aramid fabric and treated aramid fabric (Fig.2), treated aramid fabric contained Si indicated the successful grafting of SiO2-TiO2-Fe composite aerogel onto the surface of aramid fabric. Static contact angle of the treated aramid fabric was increased to 150.9° suggesting super-hydrophobic critical range (Fig.3). Compared with untreated aramid fabric, carbon black pow der and clay on the surface of aramid fabric after treatment were both washed to the bottom of glass slide, and the surface of the fabric was clean, indicating that aramid fabric after the treatment by SiO2-TiO2-Fe composite aerogel has excellent anti-fouling performance (Fig.4). The photocatalysis degradation rate of methylene blue oil solution increased to 90.7% with the help of being treated by ultraviolet light for 6 h (Fig.5), indicating that the self-cleaning and anti-fouling properties of the treated aramid fabric were improved obviously. Compared with the flame retardancy of aramid fabric before and after the treatment by SiO2-TiO2-Fe composite aerogel, it was found that the flame retardancy decreased slightly, but remained within the standard requirement of B1 grade. It also found that washing has little effect on the flame retardance of fabric, indicating that the combination fastness was strong, and thus it was feasible to use one-step spraying method to treat aramid fabric with SiO2-TiO2-Fe composite aerogel. Conclusion Compared with untreated aramid fabric, the static contact angle of SiO2-TiO2-Fe composite aerogel and low surface energy aramid fabric prepared by water-based sol-gel method was increased to 150.9°, the photocatalysis degradation rate of methylene blue oil solution was increased to 90.7% with the help of being treated by ultraviolet light for 6 h, and the self-cleaning and anti-fouling properties of the treated aramid fabric were improved obviously. The results provides a theoretical basis for development of self-cleaning fire-fighting fabrics, and was beneficial to prolong the service life of fire protection clothing. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Research progress in preparation and application of conductive yarn materials LI Long, ZHANG Xian, WU Lei Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (07): 214-221.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211105002 Abstract （212）   HTML （22）    PDF （3088KB）（219）       Knowledge map    Save Significance The good conductivity of the material is the basis of manufacturing smart wearable devices. Because textile material is light, soft and good in air permeability and shape adaptability, textile-based flexible smart wearable devices have been attracting extensive attention from researchers. In recent years, the researchers have been using various techniques to integrate conductive materials with textile materials for manufacturing textile flexible intelligent wearable device for real-time monitoring of human health, friction power generation, personal thermal management, energy storage and so on. Conductive yarn is one of textile intelligent wearable materials, in order to further study the low-resistance and multi-performance conductive yarn for smart wearable devices, textile yarns was taken as the object. The methods of preparing conductive yarn materials were reviewed in relation to spinning technology, coating, coating combined with spinning technology and electrostatic spinning technology and application of the conductive yarns in electromagnetic protection, sensing device, energy storage device, transmission and power supply, artificial muscle, electric heating and thermal management device in recent years. Progress The advantages and disadvantages of conductive preparation methods are analyzed. Both conventional textile fibers and conductive fibers are spun into yarns by blending or wrapping using spinning technology, which can produce conductive yarns in batches. Besides, the yarn has excellent textile characteristics. However the conductive yarn is seldom used in resistance strain sensing. It is difficult for the mass production of conductive yarn prepared by coating technology, and the yarn has poor performance stability and poor weaving property, the preparation process is complicated and coating waste liquid may cause environmental pollution. Compared with the spinning technology, the method of preparing conductive yarn by coating is flexible, and the yarn has wide application. The auxiliary technology of electrostatic spinning nanofibers plays an important role in developing conductive yarns, and the conductive yarn with sheath-core structure prepared by electrostatic spinning technology overcomes some problems existing in conventional conductive coating. However, it is difficult to mass-produce conductive yarn by this method. The conductive yarn prepared by coating combined with spinning technology has good textile characteristics, but the conductive coating waste liquid of textile fiber materials may also cause environmental pollution. Conclusion and Prospect The future research and development trends of conductive yarn materials are proposed by combining the performance stability and the environmental safety of conductive yarn in its life cycle. It is proposed that the stability and service life of sensing performance under large strain needs to be further improved for the conductive yarn prepared used for resistance strain sensor. The conductive yarn needs additional flame retardant function,elasticity function and flexibility for their use in electric heating products so as to improve the use safety and wearing comfort. It is necessary to further study the change law of yarn conductivity under special environmental conditions (such as wet environment, high temperature environment, low temperature environment), so as to develop textile-based flexible smart wearable devices to be used in different temperature and humidity environments. It is still a research focus to develop conductive yarn materials with textile characteristics and lower linear resistance and good linear resistance uniformity. In order to popularize the practical application of textile flexible intelligent wearable devices, a development goal is that the whole life cycle of manufacturing, using and discarding of the conductive yarn has no negative impact on human health and environment. It is necessary to further optimize the structure of conductive yarn and innovate the integration technology of conductive materials and textile fiber materials, and improve the durability, sensibility, weaving property, biodegradability and mass production capacity of the conductive yarn. Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Fabrication and properties of metallocene polyethylene spunbond filament based on Polyflow simulation LIU Ya, ZHAO Chen, ZHUANG Xupin, ZHAO Yixia, CHENG Bowen Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (12): 1-9.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220705301 Abstract （207）   HTML （37）    PDF （6828KB）（197）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Spunbond products are widely used in the fields of sanitary materials, packaging, and agriculture. Currently, spunbond products on the market are mainly made from polypropylene (PP) and polyester (PET). Although these materials have high strength, their softness is not good enough to meet the requirements of high softness applications. The metallocene polyethylene (mPE) is used to form membrane for its excellent softness. Because of its poor spinnability, mPE is rarely used in spunbond technology. As such, it is important to study the spinning properties of mPE to modify the performance of traditional spunbond products. Method The thermal and rheological properties of mPE were analyzed first. According to data available, the flow velocity distribution and extrusion state of mPE melt were simulated by Polyflow numerical simulation method during the preparation of mPE spunbond filament. The velocity distribution and extrusion expansion trend of mPE melt were analyzed under different extrusion temperature. According to the simulation results, the parameters of spinning experiment were guided, and the spunbond filaments of mPE with different mechanical drafting multiples were achieved. In order to characterize the mechanical properties of mPE fiber, numbers of common fibers were used for comparison. Results The thermos-gravimetric analysis result showed that the thermal decomposition temperature of mPE was 405 ℃ (Fig. 1 (a)), and the differential scanning calorimetry result showed the melting range of mPE was 93.9-130.1 ℃ (Fig. 1(b)). According to the thermal properties, the simulation temperature of rheological test was preliminarily set in the range of 220-280 ℃. The melt flow velocity of mPE increased with the increase of melting temperature (Fig. 5) but decreased rapidly after extruding from the spinneret orifice (Fig. 6) in the simulation experiments. The extrusion swell phenomenon of mPE was quite evident after melt extrusion, the lower the extrusion temperature was, the higher the die swell ratio was, and the maximum was 1.52 at the temperature of 230 ℃. The results of Polyflow simulation were used to guide and optimize the parameters of the spunbond process. Finally, the mPE spunbond filaments with different mechanical drafting multiples were successfully prepared at the spinning temperature of 240 ℃. The performance of series mPE filaments were characterized. The results showed that the diameter of mPE filament decreased with the increase of drafting multiple, and the minimum diameter of mPE filament was 64.2 μm with the drafting multiple of 6 times, the variation reached 61.5% compared with the drafting multiple of 1 time (Fig. 8). Because of the rapid cooling of the trickle flow, the amorphous part disentangled and carried out preferred orientation along with mechanical drafting, more molecular chains in the polymer participated in crystallization, the crystallinity of mPE filament increased with the increase of drawing multiple (Fig. 9). The maximum of the crystallinity was 50.1% with the drafting multiple of 6 times. As the trickle flow further oriented and crystallized with the increase of the drafting multiple, the breaking strength of mPE filament increased and the fracture elongation decreased with the increase of the drawing multiple (Fig. 10). Compared with the common fibers appeared on the market, the mPE filament drawn to 6 times exhibited the best mechanical performance, the breaking strength was 3.44 cN/dtex, and the fracture elongation was 85.69%. Conclusion Polyflow simulation is used to simulate the flow velocity distribution and extrusion state of the mPE melt in the spunbond process. It proves that the Polyflow simulation results can be used to guide and optimize the process parameters for mPE spinning experiment. The performance test of mPE spunbond filament proves the reliability of the simulation method and the feasibility of mPE application in spunbond technology. The testing results also reveal that mPE filament has excellent mechanical properties, which can be used to form the bi-component spunbond with PP, PET and other raw materials, so as to modify the performance of traditional mono-component spunbond material with softer feeling, which can meet the requirements of high softness for certain applications. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Preparation and properties of polyphenylene sulfide composite fiber for clothing LIAN Dandan, WANG Lei, YANG Yaru, YIN Lixin, GE Chao, LU Jianjun Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (08): 1-8.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220308201 Abstract （206）   HTML （43）    PDF （4567KB）（180）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Special protective clothing are used against high temperature, acid and alkali corrosion, fire and other special environments, and high-performance fibers are essential for special protective clothing. Polyphenylene sulfide (PPS) fiber is a high-performance fiber with excellent mechanical properties, chemical resistance, self-flame retardancy and insulation and other outstanding properties, and it is a suitable raw material for special protective clothing. However, the poor moisture absorption, dyeing performance and light resistance of PPS fiber, limit the applications in apparel. Method PPS fibers were modified with sodium polyacrylate (PAAS) and nano-TiO2 to obtain PPS/PAAS/TiO2 composite fibers with better hygroscopic property, dyeing performance and UV resistance. The PPS/PAAS/TiO2 composite masterbatches were prepared by melt blending the vacuum-dried PPS with PAAS and nano-TiO2 using a twin-screw extruder before these composite masterbatches were vacuum dried at 130 ℃ for 13 h. The composite fibers were prepared by a one-step spinning and drawing process using melt spinning. The spinning speed was 800 m/min, the pump supply was 22 g/min, and two-zone drafting was used, with the temperature of each drafting hot plate setting at 88, 102 and 108 ℃, and the drafting multiplier was 3.2. The mechanical properties, moisture absorption properties, dyeing rate, color fastness, and ultraviolet(UV) resistance of the prepared fibers were characterized. Results PAAS and nano-TiO2 were able to disperse uniformly in the polyphenylene sulfide (PPS) fiber matrix and form a good cross-compatibility (Fig.2), but when the mass fraction of PAAS exceeded 3%, agglomeration appeared and the poor dispersion led to poor spinnability of PPS composite fibers (Tab. 1). The use of Nano-TiO2 improved the crystallinity of PPS fibers, while PAAS made the glass transition temperature and crystallinity of composite fibers decrease (Fig. 3 and Tab. 2). Increasing the internal free volume and amorphous zone of fibers resulted in a slight decrease in the breaking strength of PPS fibers compared with pure PPS fibers, but the elongation at break increases (Fig. 4). When the mass fraction of PAAS was 2%, the breaking strength of PPS/PAAS/TiO2 composite fiber reached 3.06 cN/dtex and the elongation at break 30.4%, indicating the mechanical properties meeting the requirements of fabrics for apparel. The moisture absorption performance and dyeing performance of the PPS/PAAS/TiO2 composite fiber was improved, the water contact angle decreased with the increase of PAAS content from 73.7° for the pure PPS fiber to 51.2° for the PPS-5 composite fiber (Fig. 5). The standard moisture regain rate increased with the increase of PAAS content from 0.22% for the pure PPS fiber to 3.9% for the PPS-5 composite fiber (Fig. 6). Under the same dyeing conditions, the dyeing rate of PPS-4 composite fiber (90.9%) was twice as high as that of the pure PPS fiber (44.8%) (Fig. 7). The color fastness of PPS/PAAS/TiO2 composite fiber all reached levels 5 and 5 for soaping resistance (Tab. 3), and 6 and 7 for light fastness. The resistance of PPS composite fibers to light aging was significantly improved by addition of nano-TiO2, and the strength remained at more than 85% after 120 h, although there was also strength loss with time (Fig. 8). Conclusion The hygroscopic property, dyeing performance and UV resistant of PPS/PAAS/TiO2 composite fibers are all enhanced to a certain extent, partly because of the functional groups of PAAS and nano-TiO2, and partly because of the formation of a good spatial cross-linked network structure with the PPS matrix (Fig. 9). PAAS itself has a long molecular chain entanglement cross-linked structure. There are many reactive —COONa, —COOH groups inside the network, which have super hygroscopic ability. It is proved that nano TiO2 plays a role in preventing UV aging by absorbing and reflecting ultraviolet light and the scattering and shielding ultraviolet light. Water molecules and dyestuffs that penetrate and diffuse into the interior of PPS fibers produce certain hydrogen bonding with the functional groups, resulting in improved moisture regain and color fastness of the fibers. On the basis of maintaining the original properties of PPS fibers, improved moisture absorption, dyeing and UV resistant properties make it a prospective candidate fibre for apparel applications. For further development, it is necessary to focus on the deterioration of the spinnability and mechanical properties of PPS fibers that occur after the PAAS content is increased. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Digital pattern making of underwear based on NURBS surface model of male waist, hip and crotch REN Ze, ZHONG Anhua Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (08): 167-173.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220701101 Abstract （200）   HTML （11）    PDF （5567KB）（75）       Knowledge map    Save Objective In order to solve the problem of ambiguity in the amount of front crotch bulge in men's underwear pattern and the problem of ill-fitting crotch of underwear, a surface simulation model of waist, hip and crotch of male human body was established by extracting point cloud data, and a well-fitting men's underwear pattern was generated based on the surface model to improve the comfort of wearing men's underwear by improving the underwear pattern, and also to broaden the new idea of fast access to the fit and body-fitting clothing pattern. Method A 3-D body scanner was used to obtain the point cloud data of the waist, hip and crotch of the experimental subject, and the point cloud coordinate set was extracted from the point cloud data using reverse engineering software to describe the waist, hip and crotch morphology. NURBS curve and surface principle were used to construct the waist, hip and crotch surface model, the 3-D surface was developed into a 2-D plane in Solidworks software, and the developed plane was processed using ET software to generate a fitted digital underwear pattern. Results Using the 3-D body scanner to obtain the point cloud data of the male mannequin, 7 feature sections characterizing the morphology of the waist, hip and crotch were selected, and 50 equidistant points of each feature section were extracted from the point cloud data to form a point cloud coordinate set as indicated in Fig. 2(b) for the point cloud coordinate set imported into Solidworks software. The male waist, hip and crotch were reasonably divided into 16 areas, and NURBS curves and surfaces were constructed based on the information of point coordinates in the point cloud coordinates set (Fig. 4). The waist, hip and crotch surface models were established in Solidworks software by using common connecting lines of adjacent surfaces, and the surface models were made to accurately describe the body surface morphology of the waist, hip and crotch. The surface flattening tool was used to flatten the three-dimensional surface into a two-dimensional plane, and the area error ≤1 cm2 and the boundary length error ≤1 cm during the flattening process were within the acceptable range of dimensional error. The 2-D plane was exported into the ET software for 4 simple steps (Fig. 7): curve point optimization, plate alignment and shape docking, front and back crotch line adjustment and waist adjustment, and the final digital men's underwear pattern was generated. Based on the virtual fitting of 3-D scanned mannequins in CLO3D software and the actual garment fitting on the male mannequin, the fitting effect was verified for the underwear pattern. Using an air bag contact pressure tester, the pressure test was conducted on seven key parts of the underwear wear. The garment pressure generated by the underwear ranged from 0 to 2.4 kPa (Tab. 4), verifying that the digital underwear version met the garment pressure comfort requirements. Conclusion For the study of fitted men's underwear patterns, a method is proposed to establish a surface model of the waist and hip crotch and generate a digital men's underwear pattern through the surface model, which solves the problem of ill-fitting men's underwear crotch and provides a new approach for the rapid generation of fitted men's underwear patterns. The digital pattern-making method can be applied to the acquisition of fitted and close-fitting garment patterns by establishing a simulated surface model of the human body form to generate a fitted garment pattern, and the structure of the garment pattern is more in line with the detailed morphological characteristics of the human body. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Synthesis and solid-state polymerization of flame retardant copolyester containing phosphorus side groups SHANG Xiaoyu, ZHU Jian, WANG Ying, ZHANG Xianming, CHEN Wenxing Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (07): 1-9.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220101601 Abstract （199）   HTML （37）    PDF （2798KB）（171）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Poly(ethylene terephthalate) (PET), as the major polyester material, has excellent performance but is flammable, and hence it is important to improve the flame retardant properties of PET to satisfy the requirement for various applications. Introducing phosphorus-based flame retardants into PET molecular chains by copolymerization is one of the effective flame retardant modification methods at present. The flame retardant copolyester produced by melt polymerization has a intrinsic low viscosity of 0.6-0.7 dL/g, which cannot meet the flame retardant specifications of copolyester in fields such as engineering plastics, bottles, and industrial filament. This research represents an effort to increase the intrinsic viscosity of copolyester by polycondensation so as to expand the applications. Method The side group phosphorus-containing flame retardant 9,10-dihydro-10-[2,3-di(hydroxycarbonyl)propyl] 10-phosphorus-phenanthrene-10-oxide (DDP) was copolymerized into PET molecular chain to obtain copolyester (PETD). Nuclear magnetic resonance hydrogen spectroscopy(1H NMR) and Fourier transform infrared spectrometer characterization methods were adopted to measure the success of copolyester synthesis. The intrinsic viscosity of copolyesters was determined by using viscosity test. The thermal stability, crystallinity, carbon formation capacity, flame retardant properties, actual phosphorus content and carboxyl end-group content of copolyesters were characterized by differential scanning calorimetry, thermogravimetric analysis, limiting oxygen index (LOI) test, inductively coupled plasma-optical emission spectrometer test and carboxyl end-group concentrations test. In order to investigate the intrinsic viscosity changes of flame retardant copolyester containing phosphorus side group after solid-state polycondensation reaction under different reaction conditions, different amount of side group phosphate-containing flame retardant were used for optimisation. Reaction rate constants and activation energy were calculated by analyzing the viscosity increasing effect and reaction kinetics. Results The flame retardant copolyester containing phosphorus side group was synthesized by copolymerization method. The reaction process of solid-state polycondensation (SSP) of flame retardant copolyester containing phosphorus side groups and the reaction kinetics were studied to establish understanding of mechanism governing the polycondensation technology of flame retardant copolyester. The results showed that the intrinsic viscosity of the prepared PET and copolyester reached 0.6-0.7 dL/g (Tab. 1), meeting the requirements of conventional polyesters. The increase of the DDP content of the flame retardant caused the carboxyl end-group concentrations to increase, the crystallization capacity to be worsened, and the carbon forming capacity and flame retardant property to increase. PETD5 deminstrated good thermal stability and mechanical properties, and showed 13.6% of carbonization capacity (Tab. 2 and Fig. 6), 15% of crystallinity, and 31.8% of LOI (Tab. 1), proving successful preparation of flame retardant copolyester containing phosphorus side group in preparation for subsequent polycondensation reactions. The research showed that all polyesters achieved the intrinsic viscosity of 1.0 dL/g or higher within 10 h of solid-state polycondensation reaction at 200 and 210 ℃ (Fig. 8), and that the intrinsic viscosity of all polyesters increased with the increase of temperature and reaction time. Correspondingly, the concentration of carboxyl end-group concentrations decreased gradually with the increase of reaction temperature and reaction time. Compared with conventional PET, the reaction rate constant of flame retardant copolyester PETD increased with increasing temperature and decreasing flame retardant amount, and the activation energy increased when increasing flame retardant amount. Conclusion It is found that the solid-state polycondensation reaction conditions are mild even with prolonged reaction time, and the copolyester demonstrates satisfactory thermal stability. It is easy to adjust the reaction conditions according to different demands in production, and therefore the study of solid-state polycondensation and condensation and adhesion reaction of flame retardant copolyester containing phosphorus side groups is of certain value for its industrial development. There are still many concerns calling for further study on the adhesion reaction of flame retardant copolyesters, and many aspects can be further explored, such as the influence of different reaction factors (vacuum degree, reaction atmosphere, particle size, crystallinity) on the adhesion of flame retardant copolyester. The changes of flame retardant properties, thermal stability, crystallization capacity and mechanical properties of flame retardant copolyester after polycondensation need to be studied in depth. The flame retardant and mechanical properties of the tackified flame retardant copolyesters needs to be evaluated. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Research progress in recycling and reuse of waste textiles and clothing SHEN Ya, CHEN Tao, ZHANG Lijie Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (07): 232-239.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220306202 Abstract （197）   HTML （33）    PDF （3270KB）（144）       Knowledge map    Save Significance Sustained development is one of China's long-term strategies, and recycling and reuse of waste textile and clothing plays an important role in this policy. Recycling, sorting and reuse are main procedures for recycling and reuse of waste textile and clothing, and the ways to recycle and reuse waste textile and clothing influence the effect of recycling and reuse. This paper collates and reviews the current academic research and industry development in recycling and reuse of waste textile and clothing in detail, and expounds the whole recycling and reusing system of waste textile and clothing based circular economy 4R(reduce,reuse,recycle,remanufacture)principles aiming to enrich the theory and promote the high-value recycling and reuse of waste textile and clothing resources, hoping to realize efficient ecological economy. Progress The current situation of the recycling and reuse of waste textile and clothing in China and abroad, the recycling and reuse technical methods and the market system are reviewed. The recycling and reuse patterns of waste textile and clothing are various. Compared with some overseas developed countries, China has some shortages in public policy, enterprise leadership and the cooperation among organizations. Sorting technology and reuse technology are the core technology of the recycling and reuse of waste textile and clothing, among which sorting technology consists of artificial method, general qualitative and quantitative analysis methods, near infrared spectroscopy and other technologies, reusing technology mainly covers clean technology, physical reuse methods and chemical reuse methods. Artificial method is the most common sorting method. Physical loosening method and remelting processing method are common high value-added physical reuse methods. The industrial chain of recycling and reuse of waste textile and clothing starts from the end of the traditional textile and clothing industry chain, and ends with the recycling-reusing products. Two organizational operation forms are adopted for the recycling and reuse of waste textile and clothing. One is the reverse organization operation mode of enterprises, the other is the social network organization operation mode. Each mode has its advantages and disadvantages. This paper analyzes the recycling and reuse system of waste textile and clothing based on the 4R principle of circular economy. The "reduce" principle is the first choice for the textile and clothing industry to solve the resource and environmental problems. Conclusion and Prospect Recycling and reuse industry of waste textile and clothing is still in primary stage in China. It is still a long way for China to reach the level of developed countries. This paper proposes four suggestions for the future development in recycling and reuse waste textile and clothing in China. First, intensively cultivating second-hand textile and clothing market is essential, because second-hand textile and clothing market is valuable in recycling and reuse development. Second, standardizing recycling and reuse links is also important that could built standardization technical process and industry green assurance system. Third, focusing on core technology is also necessary. Technology development will greatly promote the recycling and reuse effect of waste textile and clothing industry. Beside all above, enhancing the awareness of resource recycling and reuse in all society is also a significant step by virtue of the fact that the improvement of the recycling-reusing awareness will help all recycling links become more active and initiative. In general, China needs to make suitable policies according to the national conditions to promote cooperation among all parties and organizations and scientific research activities to develop the waste textile and clothing industry. The social benefit of recycling and reuse of waste textile and clothing should be maximized, and the waste textile and clothing resources would be utilized profitably in ecology and economy! Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Body shape characteristics and classification of middle-aged and elderly women in eastern China LIU Yongmei, LIU Siyi, YU Xiaokun, XUE Huixin, ZHANG Xianghui Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (07): 184-191.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220504501 Abstract （190）   HTML （14）    PDF （2522KB）（100）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Nowadays, China's aging population is becoming increasingly severe, the size of middle-aged and elderly people is expanding, and so is the related clothing market. Middle-aged and elderly people put forward higher requirements for the comfort and aesthetetics of clothing, and the human body shape is closely related to the structure and shape design of clothing. Among them, the differences between middle-aged and elderly women and young women are significant in the shapes of chest, waist, abdomen and back. This research is proposed to study the body shape characteristics and classification of middle-aged and elderly women. Method In order to further explore the body shape characteristics and distribution of middle-aged and elderly women, 207 middle-aged and elderly women aged 50-65 from eastern China were selected as research subjects, and 20 pieces of body size data were collected according Martin's measurement method. According to the national women's size standard, the collected data of body shape of middle-aged and elderly women were classified based on the difference of chest and waist and compared with the data of body shape proportion of the national standard to obtain the differences between the standard body shape of middle-aged and elderly women and the standard body shape of adult women. Further factoral analysis and correlation analysis were carried out on the collected data to acquire characteristic variables affecting the body shape of middle-aged and elderly women. Finally, based on the influence factor with the highest correlation, the body shape of middle-aged and elderly women was classified through rapid cluster analysis, and the value range of characteristic variables was calculated. Results Compared with the national standard GB/T 1335.2—2008《Standard Sizing Systems for Garments-Women》, the proportion of Y and A types decreases while the proportion of B and C types increases, among which the proportion of B type is the highest (Tab. 2 and Tab. 3). The results of factor analysis showed that circumference factor was the main factor affecting the body shape difference of middle-aged and elderly women, the front and back waist section difference was the characteristic variable affecting the body shape of the torso, the waist ratio, the chest-waist difference, the hip-waist difference was the characteristic variable affecting the body height, slimness and fullness index (Tab. 4 and Tab. 5). Combined with factor analysis and extraction results of human characteristic variables, clustering was finally carried out from two perspectives, i.e. the difference between front and back waist section difference was taken as a clustering index, and waist, waist ratio, chest-waist difference and hip-waist difference were taken as clustering indexes. The results of K-means fast clustering showed that the human body shape was divided into humpback body, slight humpback body, normal body and chest pull-out body by using the difference of front and back waist as the benchmark. Based on waist circumference, waist ratio, chest-waist difference and hip-waist difference, human body shape was classified into X type, H type, small A type and A type. Finally, the value range of clustering indicators of each body type was obtained (Tab. 11 and Tab. 12). Conclusion The body shape of middle-aged and elderly women shows an obvious trend of obesity, and the coverage rate for their body shape in the national standard is low, which calls for targeted clothing size standards to be established. Circumference factor is the main factor affecting the body size difference of middle-aged and old women. Through cluster analysis, the body shape of middle-aged and elderly women are divided into four categories from the aspects of trunk shape, and body height, thinness and fullness, and their body shape are subdivided more accurately, providing reference for the establishment of clothing type of middle-aged and elderly women. For future research, it is suggested to increase the sample size of the research subjects to better represent body shape of middle-aged and elderly women, so as to improve the accuracy of body type classification. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Development of three-jacquard spacer shoe fabrics with three-dimensional mesh structure and three-jacquard color SUN Yuanyuan, ZHANG Qi, ZHANG Yanting, ZUO Lujiao, DING Ningyu Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (07): 110-115.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220406001 Abstract （187）   HTML （8）    PDF （8072KB）（26）       Knowledge map    Save Objective At present, the warp knitted shoe fabrics on the market are mainly single- and double-jacquard shoe fabrics. However, due to the limitation of the number and configuration of the jacquard guide bars, it is difficult for single- and double-jacquard shoe fabrics to form the mesh structure both on the front layer and the back layer, and the color effect is singular. Therefore, by analyzing the process difficulties of knitting the target shoe fabrics with double-jacquard guide bar configuration, a three-jacquard bar arrangement scheme was proposed. The three-jacquard knitting process was further studied, and the three-jacquard shoe fabrics with both three-dimensional (3-D) mesh structure and three-jacquard color effect were created, which enriches the product variety of warp knitted shoe fabrics, and a design method reference for the development of other three-jacquard shoe fabric was provided. Method By analyzing the jacquard guide bars configuration schemes of RDPJ6/2 and RDPJ7/2 warp knitted jacquard machines, the knitting function of every jacquard guide bar and general guide bar was studied, the technical difficulty of knitting the 3-D mesh structure and three-jacquard color effect was explored, and the configuration scheme of three-jacquard guide bars was proposed. Based on the RDJ6/3 guide bar configuration scheme, the jacquard process principle of three-dimensional mesh structure was studied, including the design of jacquard structure and jacquard offset information. At the same time, the process principle of using polyester, cationic modified polyester and polyamide to form three-jacquard color effect was studied, and the raw material piercing scheme and specific jacquard effect were analyzed in combination with the guide bar configuration of RDJ6/3. By using WKCAD design software and RDJ6/3 warp knitting machine, the three-jacquard spacer shoe fabrics with 3-D mesh structure and three-jacquard color effect were knitted on the machine according to the jacquard structure design, raw material threading design and lapping process design of shoe fabrics. Results The configuration of three-jacquard guide bars are able to obtain three-layer shoe fabrics with double layers jacquard effect with the new configuration scheme RDJ6/3(Fig. 1). Among them, a back layer with mesh structure could be formed by GB1 and JB2, the spacer layer could be formed by GB3, and the three-jacquard color effect could be formed by JB4 and JB5 with different yarns, with a front layer with mesh structure could be formed by JB5. On the RDJ6/3 warp knitting machine mentioned above, the first jacquard guide bar (JB2) was designed to form a back layer mesh in the front needle, the third jacquard guide bar (JB5) was designed to form a front layer mesh with the same position and size as the first jacquard. The spacer guide bar GB3 was located in the middle of the first and third jacquard guide bar, connecting the non-mesh area of the both layers to form a 3-D mesh structure. The jacquard principle of three-jacquard color effect was to use the difference of dyeing properties of polyester, cationic modified polyester and polyamide into different half-size jacquard guide bars, and then form color patterns through the change of jacquard stitch. Conclusion Combined with WKCAD software, the drawing of jacquard pattern and the design of jacquard structure were achieved, and 111.11 dtex(36 f)polyester, 111.11 dtex(48 f)cationic modified polyester, 33.3 dtex polyester monofilament and 77.78 dtex(48 f)polyamide were selected as yarns. The knitting of shoe fabrics with three-dimensional mesh structure with double-sided mesh and white, blue and black three-jacquard color effect was realized on RDJ6/3 warp knitting machine, which truly integrated structural functionality and color decoration with new warp knitted shoe fabrics. The breakthrough of the key technology of three-jacquard was achieved, the product style library of warp knitted three-jacquard shoe fabric was expanded, and theoretical and practical reference for the further development of three-jacquard shoe fabric was provided. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Nozzle structure optimization based on Flow Simulation for air-jet weaving FAN Bailin, ZHANG Changrui, GUO Jiahua, HUANG Ganghan, WEI Guoliang Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (06): 200-206.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210601601 Abstract （182）   HTML （5）    PDF （3655KB）（38）       Knowledge map    Save Objective The key technology to improve the quality and reduce the cost of air-jet loom was to increase the flying speed of weft yarn, improve the quality of air-flow synthesis and reduce the air consumption. In order to improve the comprehensive performance of the auxiliary nozzle for weft insertion of air-jet weaving machines, the optimal model structure of the auxiliary nozzle orifice was simulated and optimized, so as to achieve the optimal weft insertion performance. Method The Flow Simulation plug-in module in Solidworks software was used in the research, which is a CFD numerical simulation plug-in based on the finite volume method. Flow Simulation is a fully integrated software in Solidworks. The proven computational fluid dynamics (CFD) technology was used to calculate the fluid (gas or liquid) flow inside and outside the Solidworks model. At the same time, the heat transitive model (from models, between models and inside models) caused by convective radiation and conduction will also have an impact. The structural optimization method of Solidworks software was employed to simulate the fluid performance of the auxiliary nozzle orifice. Three dimensional models of the flow field of the auxiliary nozzle orifice with single round hole, double round hole and rectangular hole was constructed to evaluate, the velocity distribution at the section 40 mm away from the nozzle, maximum flow rate of auxiliary nozzle and the mass flow at the inlet of the auxiliary nozzle under the working environment pressure of 0.4 MPa. Results For a single circular hole auxiliary nozzle, when the cone angle was set to 4°in the positive direction, better results were obtained, and the weft insertion stability was good. A high airflow speed and minimum mass flow rate could increase the weft insertion speed while ensuring the stability of the weft insertion without increasing gas consumption. Compared to the unoptimized model with a cone angle of 0°, when the cone angle was set to 4 ° in the positive direction, the stability of the weft insertion slightly increased, and the maximum flow velocity of the airflow field increased by 3.03%, with the same gas consumption as at 0°.For the double circular hole auxiliary nozzle, group D achieved relatively good results, with good weft insertion stability and slight airflow velocity and mass flow rate increase, which could increase the weft insertion speed while ensuring the stability of the weft insertion, but slightly increased the gas consumption. Compared to the group C before optimization, the stability of group D slightly increased, with a maximum flow rate increase of 0.908%, increased gas consumption by 6.25%. For the rectangular auxiliary nozzle, group B achieved relatively good results. At this time, the stability of weft insertion was good, the airflow speed was slightly increased, and the mass flow rate remained unchanged. On the basis of ensuring the stability of weft insertion, the weft insertion speed could be increased without increasing gas consumption. Compared to group A before optimization, the stability of group B was slightly increased and its maximum flow rate was 2.8%. Conclusion Flow Simulation plug-in module in Solidworks software is used to analyze the velocity distribution of the section of the auxiliary nozzle with single circular hole, double circular hole and rectangular circular hole at the distance of 40 mm from the nozzle, maximum flow rate of auxiliary nozzle and the mass flow at the inlet of the auxiliary nozzle under the working environment pressure of 0.4 MPa, and then optimize the structure of the auxiliary nozzle to obtain the optimal results. ①For the single round hole auxiliary nozzle, when the cone angle is 4° in the positive direction, the better results are obtained. At this time, the weft insertion stability is good, and the high air velocity and the minimum mass flow rate are obtained. On the basis of ensuring the weft insertion stability, the weft insertion speed can be increased without increasing the gas consumption. ②For the auxiliary nozzle with double round holes, the center distance between the two holes is 2.2 mm, and the cross section air velocity at 40 mm from the nozzle is higher than 90 m/s. The symmetry and the stability of weft insertion is good, which can meet the different requirements of actual weft insertion.③ For the auxiliary nozzles with rectangular shapes, when the length of the jet shapes is 2.034 mm and the width of the jet shapes is 0.885 mm, the air flow velocity at the section 40 mm from the jet shapes is higher than 90 m/s, with good symmetry and stability of weft insertion. The air flow speed is slightly improved, and the mass flow remains unchanged, which can increase the weft insertion speed without increasing the gas consumption on the basis of ensuring the stability of weft insertion. 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Technology progress and application prospects of liquid disperse dyes AI Li, ZHU Yawei Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 220-227.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220403902 Abstract （182）   HTML （14）    PDF （4224KB）（164）       Knowledge map    Save Significance Disperse dyes are special dyes for polyester fiber dyeing, commercially available mainly in powder and liquid forms. Powdered disperse dyes are widely used because of their excellent storage and application stability, while liquid disperse dyes are restricted by their stability. In recent years, with the great demand for energy conservation and emission reduction in printing and dyeing, liquid disperse dyes have attracted much attention, because of the advantages over the powdered disperse dyes in higher utilization rate of dye, low discharge of wastewater and waste residue and low energy consumption. Although the stability of liquid disperse dyes restricts its development to a certain extent, with the progress of the preparation technology of liquid disperse dyes, the stability has been effectively improved, and has been gradually replacing the traditional powdered disperse dyes. Progress The lapping technology of liquid disperse dyes were briefly introduced. Selecting suitable anionic/non-ionic surfactants and anti-sedimentation agents was recognized as the key factor to prepare liquid disperse dyes with excellent stability and application performance. The main processing parameters affecting the properties of liquid disperse dyes were analyzed, and the influence of rheological property and ambient temperature on the stability of liquid disperse dyes were clarified. As the second attempt, the principle of high temperature dispersion, low temperature dispersion and double electric layer diffusion of liquid disperse dyes were analyzed. It was indicated that the viscosity increasing temperature (T0 value) and the absorbance change rate of water dilution (A10) could be used as indexes to evaluate rapidly the stability of liquid dyes. Then, the energy conservation and environmental friendliness and advantages of liquid disperse dyes in high temperature and high pressure dyeing, round mesh and screen printing are analyzed, and the new applications in continuous hot melt dyeing are analyzed, and the prospect of dyeing and finishing in the same bath processing was pointed out. Conclusion and Prospect Although the preparation process of liquid disperse dyes is similar to that of powdered disperse dyes, liquid disperse dyes use less water and a small amount of additives (anionic/non-ionic mixture) as fillers. The difference in the performance of the two types of disperse dyes leads to the realization of low water consumption and near-zero emission printing and dyeing technology of liquid disperse dye, which could form a major energy conservation and emission reduction technology to meet the needs of printing and dyeing industry from the source. Liquid disperse dyes have been widely used, but their potential advantages have not been fully utilized. Therefore, the establishment of liquid disperse dye commodity standards, control of dye standardized quality, research and development of new bath dyeing and functional finishing technology are imperative to meet our 'carbon emissions and carbon neutrality' source pollution control printing and dyeing technology needs. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Continuous preparation of large-area structurally colored fabric with bionic photonic crystals WANG Xiaohui, LI Xinyang, LI Yichen, HU Min'gan, LIU Guojin, ZHOU Lan, SHAO Jianzhong Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 21-28.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220801401 Abstract （182）   HTML （27）    PDF （14679KB）（201）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Photonic crystals (PCs) are composed of different dielectric constant materials in a periodic arrangement possessing a photonic band gap (PBG) that blocks the propagation of electromagnetic waves with certain wavelengths. If the wavelength of the blocked electromagnetic waves is in the visible light range, it forms a structural color. At present, it is difficult to fabricate continuously PCs coated fabrics with structural color in a large area, and it is difficult to balance the structural stability and optical properties of PCs, limiting the practice application of PCs in textile coloring field. Method A PCs-coated fabric was designed, achieving the rapid and continuous preparation of PCs with high structural stability and high color saturation on the fabric surface. Structural colored fabric was composed of a fabric substrate, a polymer layer and a PC layer. Liquid photonic crystal (LPC) with precrystallized structure was rapidly prepared by the rotary evaporation method, which was used as the working liquid for assembly. The surface of the fabric was coated with special polymer-L slurry with a scraper, and dried at 80 ℃ for 3 min and 120 ℃ for 1 min to form a flat polymer-L film on the surface of the fabric. The LPC was coated on the surface of the fabric pretreated by polymer-L with 20 μm filament rods, and then assembled at 60 ℃ for 5 min to obtain the PCs-coated fabric. Based on the assembly process and method of PCs, a pilot equipment for continuous fabrication of structural colored fabric is designed accordingly. Results LPCs were prepared by means of physical distillation and concentration to increase the volume fraction of nanospheres in colloidal system. By introducing dispersant-3B into the polystyrene (PS) nanospheres system, the problem of microspheres condensation during the process of spin evaporation was effectively solved. With the increase of dispersant-3B, the structural color brightness of LPC increased. When the dosage of dispersant was 1.5%, the structure color of the dispersion solution was not obvious (Fig.3). In addition, the results showed that the prepared LPC with excellent dynamic recovery exhibited bright structural color, and its optical properties were regulated by the volume fraction and particle size of the nanospheres (Fig.4). When subjected to external disturbance, the LPC was disassembled, and the structural color disappeared. After the external force was released, the LPC with precrystallized structure was rapidly reconstructed and restored, and the structural color was reproduced (completed within 10 s) (Fig.5). LPC was applied to the fabric surface with polymer coating by shear induction of external force, and the LPC was reconstructed and colored quickly (within 1 min) (Fig.8). After proper heating post-treatment (60 ℃, 5 min), as the water in the LPC continued to evaporate, the lattice spacing of the PC was decreased, but the structure color blue-shifts and the brightness of LPC showed significant increased. With the complete evaporation of water, the solid PC was formed. The interfacial molecules of the polymer layer migrate to the interior of PC, stabilizing the structure of color layer of the PC on fabric surface (Fig.9 and Fig.10). Using LPC as the assembly intermediate and self-developed pilot equipment, the rapid and continuous preparation of structurally colored fabrics was achieved (Fig.12). Conclusion The proposed preparation method of the PC-coated fabric demonstrated the advantages of simple operation and obvious effect. LPC with pre-crystallized structure and excellent dynamic recovery can be prepared rapidly and macroscopically by spinning evaporation. The special dispersant-3B introduced in the process of spin evaporation plays a synergistic role with SDS anionic surfactant in the system, significantly improves the steric hindrance and charge effect between the nanospheres, illustrating the resistance to the condensation of the microspheres. By pretreating the surface of textile substrate with special polymer, the PC layer is stabilized by utilizing the relaxation, activation, diffusion and recuring properties of interfacial polymer molecule, and the consistency of high structure stability and high color saturation of PCs-coated fabric can be achieved. Using LPC as the assembly working liquid, combined with the external force induced self-assembly method and the corresponding continuous processing equipment, the rapid large-scale continuous preparation of the PC-coated fabric with a fascinating iridescent effect can be achieved. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Online recognition system for typical traditional costume images YAN Bingyi, HOU Jin, HUANG Qiyu, YANG Hancheng, TIAN Jin, YANG Chunyong Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 184-190.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220406201 Abstract （181）   HTML （27）    PDF （3318KB）（131）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Traditional costume culture is in danger of disappearing gradually and needs effective conservation methods. Currently, most of conservation methods rely on human resources, such as recording traditional costume by taking photos and scanning, causing that the conservation efficiency and culture exchanging are low and an efficient method to preserve the culture is lacking. Therefore, a new deep learning algorithm was proposed for highly accurate recognition of traditional costumes, and an online web identification system was designed based on cloud computing technologies. The proposed research should serve as a new alternative way for conservation and recognization of traditional costume culture efficiently. Method Firstly, a traditional costume image dataset was constructed and enhanced by the combination of multiple background replacement and geometric transformation. Then, three modified DenseNet169 network models were built by introducing the squee and excitation (SE), convolutional block attention module (CBAM) and coordinate attention (CA), respectively, and these models were later integrated together to form a high-performance algorithm. After that, based on cloud computation and web technology, an online recognition system for typical traditional costume images was constructed by combining image normalization pre-processing and the new algorithm. Results A traditional costume images dataset, which contains 92 160 images of a total of 15 styles, such as costumes of Zang, Man, Mongolian, Miao, Yi, Gejia, Li, Qiang, Hui, Dai, Zhuang, Han, She, Bai and Korean nationlities, was set up. The comprehensive recognition accuracies for the three improved models (using attention mechanisms SE-Dense Net 169, CBAM-DenseNet169 and CA-DenseNet169, respectively) were 89.50%, 89.83% and 90.17%, respectively (Tab.1). Although all their comprehensive recognition performances were good and similar, each model was limited by poor recognition accuracies for some specific different traditional costume categories. For example, the separated recognition accuracies of SE-DenseNet169 on Li and Zang costumes were only 77.5% and 80%, respectively. After weighting integration of the three models, the final algorithm obtained a high comprehensive recognition accuracy of 93.50% on the verification set. Compared with the previous best comprehensive recognition accuracy of CA-DenseNet169, an improvement of 3.33% was achieved. With the new algorithm, apart from relatively low separated recognition accuracy (about 87.50%) for Li costumes, the separated recognition accuracies for other traditional costume categories were all above 90.00%. Once the Korean costume image was input into the system, the most possible 3 prediction costume categories and the consumption time were displayed (Fig.4). 600 Real scene traditional costume images from different costume categories were tested, only 15 images' corrected categories were not shown in the most possible 3 prediction costume categories, which indicated a high comprehensive recognition accuracy of 98.00%. The value would be decreased to 93.50% if only using the most possible 1 prediction costume category as the output result. Meanwhile, the average processing and recognizing time taken by the system (deployed on an Aliyun server with dual-cores intel i5 CPU and 4 GiB RAM) for an image of 1 MB was around 11-13 s, which should be acceptable. Conclusion In addition to the problems of lack of effective methods to protect traditional costume culture and limited recognization channels, the research built an online recognition system of typical traditional costume images. The system could efficiently identify 15 types of traditional costume images, and it is convenient to operate, recognize and share. Besides recording, protecting and spreading traditional costume culture efficiently, the system could also be used as a digital tool to promote tourism, culture and economy in various ethnic regions. The research would provide a new alternative solution for conserving and recognizing traditional costume culture. However, at present, the system still has some limitations, such as, only few recognizable traditional costume categories, low recognition accuracy of individual traditional costume categories and slightly slow recognition speed. In the future, the number of recognizable costume categories should be expanded, the algorithm should be improved, and the interface and operation process of the system should be optimized. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Application of virtual garment transfer in garment customization YE Qinwen, WANG Zhaohui, HUANG Rong, LIU Huanhuan, WAN Sibang Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (06): 183-190.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220408001 Abstract （178）   HTML （18）    PDF （7818KB）（242）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Design-preserving virtual garment transfer can transfer a garment from one body to another, which is significant for garment customization. However, most current research on virtual garment transfer only focuses on generating personalized 3-D garments rather than 2-D patterns and cannot be used for 3-D scanned human bodies. To address this issue, we propose a garment customization solution for 3-D scans based on design-preserving virtual garment transfer. Given a source garment worn on a source body, this research aims to obtain the target garments and patterns for a 3-D scan and show the final virtual fitting result of the target garment. Method Firstly, the principle of virtual garment transfer of CLO 3-D and Marvelous Designer software is clarified in detail. Secondly, a method for generating personalized 3D garments and 2-D patterns for the 3-D scanned human bodies is proposed in combination with virtual garment transfer and the "Auto-convert-to-avatar" of CLO 3-D. Finally, the feasibility of this method in actual garment customization is verified by performing virtual garment transfer experiments with scanned human bodies. Results In order to explore the difference in results between the two virtual garment transfer methods, two experiments were conducted and the results demonstrated that the method of using the default virtual avatar in CLO 3D or Marvelous Designer worked better than "Create fitting suit" when performing virtual garment transfer (Fig. 4). For the 3-D scanned human body, we proposed a personalized garment customization solution (Fig. 6). The virtual garment transfer for the 3-D scan was divided into three main steps. First, we used the CLO 3D default avatar to fit the scan and obtained the converted avatar based on the "Auto-convert-to-avatar " function of CLO 3D. Second, we obtained the transferred garment by transforming the source garment from the source body to the converted avatar. Finally, we fitted the transferred garment onto the scan and obtained the final virtual fitting effect. To verify the effectiveness of our proposed personalized garment customization solution, we scanned four young males with 3-D scanning and then obtained the corresponding converted avatars. For convenience, we denoted the scans as SA, SB, SC, SD and the converted avatars as CA, CB, CC, CD, respectively. According to our solution, we quickly obtained the transferred 3-D garment and corresponding 2-D patterns. The experimental results showed that the garments obtained by virtual garment transfer could meet the personalized requirements for different body shapes and sizes of the 3-D scanned human body (Fig. 10). In addition, the transferred patterns can satisfy the needs of actual garment production (Fig. 11). Conclusion In this paper, we have proposed a personalized garment customization solution for a 3-D scanned human body based on design-preserving virtual garment transfer. For the 3-D scanned human body, our method was available for generating personalized 3-D garments and the corresponding 2-D patterns while also showing the final wearing effect of the transferred garment on the scan. The scheme's feasibility for actual garment customization was verified by conducting virtual garment transfer experiments with 3-D scans. The transferred 3-D garments can fit the scans well, and the transferred 2-D pattern can satisfy the needs of actual garment production. The method described in this paper was quick and effective for creating personalized 3-D garments and 2-D patterns. As a result, it can significantly improve the efficiency of customized garment development and facilitate garment customization in the apparel industry. In practical applications, creating a new style of 3-D garment is only necessary. Our proposed method allows personalized 3-D garments and corresponding 2-D patterns to be quickly obtained for 3-D scanned bodies of different sizes and shapes. In future work, how to optimize the existing personalized garment customization solutions is a topic worthy of in-depth study. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Fabrication and properties of polyamide 6/carbon black composite fibers via in situ polymerization LI Rui, WANG Mengke, YU Chunxiao, ZHENG Xiaodi, QIU Zhicheng, LI Zhiyong, WU Shufang Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (10): 1-8.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220505601 Abstract （178）   HTML （20）    PDF （5184KB）（155）       Knowledge map    Save Objective The improvement in polyamide 6(PA6)-based matrix properties by filling functional nanomaterials and application of PA6-based fiber have attracted much attention due to the recent rapid development in nanotechnology. Among all these filling nanomaterials, carbon black(CB)has been widely used as an ideal filling material due to its relatively small particle size and good compatibility with PA6-based matrix. In order to fabricate dope-dyed polyamide 6 filament with deep blackness, a series of PA6/CB composites and fibers were prepared via in situ polymerization and subsequently melt spinning. Method PA6/CB composites with carbon black content of 1%-3% were fabricated via in-situ polymerization by using highly dispersed aqueous carbon black slurry as modifiers, and melt-spinning were employed to achieve dope-dyed PA6/CB composite fibers. Microscopic structure, melting crystallization parameters and crystallization behavior and thermal stability of composites and/or fibers were determined using scanning electron micro-scope (SEM), differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) and thermogravimetry analysis (TGA) respectively. Mechanical properties, orientation factor, chroma value and color fastness were then used to characterize the resultant structure and properties of fibers. Results Quenching the surface of PA6/CB composites resulted in tougher surface than pure PA6 composite, without significant agglomerations, indicating that the carbon black was dispersed reasonably well (Fig. 1). A mostly smooth quenching surface was observed with relatively lower carbon black content, while staircase structure was formed when content of carbon black reached 3.0%. Similar results were witnessed on the surface of PA6/CB fibers when a smooth surface without aggregation of carbon black (Fig. 2). Combined with the curves obtained by DSC and crystallinity parameters calculated with DSC data(Tab. 1), carbon black had hardly any influence on the melting peak of PA6/CB composites, as indicated by a single melting peak observed on these two second heating curves with no difference in melting point (Tm) between samples. Crystalline temperature (Tc) reached as high as 190.30 ℃, 13.66 ℃ higher than that of pure PA6, which was 176.64 ℃. Obvious improvement in crystallinity of PA6/CB composites came when carbon black content was set at 3.0%, which was 31.41% higher than that of the pure PA6 (Fig. 3 and Tab. 1). Degree of undercooling (ΔT) temperature reached as low as 28.78 ℃ in PA6/CB composites, which is about 15% less than pure PA6 when carbon black content is 2.5%. Weight loss of PA6/CB composites in the temperature range 100-600 ℃ were less than that of pure PA6, and all initial decomposition temperatures (temperatures when 5% weight had been lost) surpassed 390 ℃ (Fig. 4). In pure PA6, a characteristic diffraction peak around 21.5° indicated the presence of γ crystal formation. However, this peak disappeared upon the addition of carbon black. Instead, two characteristic diffraction peaks at around 20.1° and 23.3°-23.4° emerged, representing a more stable PA6 α crystal formation (Fig. 5). When using the same draw ratio in fiber spinning, the tensile strength reached its highest value at a carbon black content of 1.0%. However, as the loading content of carbon black increased, the tensile strength gradually declined, although it remained significantly higher than that of pure PA6. Notably, at a draw ratio of 3.2 and a carbon black content of 3.0%, the tensile strength increased by 20%. At the same time, the elongation at break decreased continuously(Tab. 3). Tensile strength and orientation factor went up with the increase of draw ratio in melt spinning procedure in the same carbon black content while elongation at break went down. The L value, representing blackness of PA/CB fibers, dropped from 91.57 in pure PA6 to as low as 17.13 with added carbon black. Higher linear density caused lower L value. Rubbing, washing and light color fastness of PA6/CB fibers all reached level 4-5 in fastness tests. Conclusion Carbon black disperses well in the matrix and on the surface of PA6/CB fibers which promoted a more stable PA6 α crystal formation, and it improves thermal stability of PA6/CB composites. In addition, carbon black provides a reinforcing effect of PA6/CB fibers, and the tensile strength is higher than the pure PA6 ones. Moreover, the blackness of composite fibers is getting deeper with the increase of carbon black content while remaining excellent color fastness. As a result, highly uniform dispersion of carbon black particles in PA6 matrix can be achieved via in-situ polymerization, resulting in high blackness and good color fastness of composite fibers, while maintaining great mechanical properties. All these characteristics are well-suited for the production of fine denier fibers. In general, in comparison to traditional dyeing processes, in-situ polymerization method has significant advantages in energy saving, color fastness, color uniformity, and fabric resilience. It is a simple production process with low cost and high efficiency, making it suitable for large-scale production of single-color fibers. However, there are challenges such as high polymerization reaction temperature, high requirements for long-term heat resistance of colorants, and difficulties in equipment cleaning during production switching, which need to be addressed in the future. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Study on performance of nanofiber air filter materials HU Diefei, WANG Yan, YAO Juming, DAS Ripon, MILITKY Jiri, VENKATARAMAN Mohanapriya, ZHU Guocheng Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 77-83.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210905801 Abstract （176）   HTML （29）    PDF （6112KB）（70）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Filtration performance of air filtration membrane in high-end application has always been a main concern, attracting much research. The electrospun nanofiber membrane and polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) microporous membrane are the widely used membranes as high-end air filtration membrane. In order to further investigate the filtration mechanism of nanofiber air filter materials, to understand the correlations between structure features and their filtration performance, and to provide useful guidance for development and application of high-end air filter materials, these six types of filter composite materials are made from nanofiber structure, which is usually used for high-end air filter materials. Method These six types of filter composite materials were selected. The structure feature is the main factor influencing the filtration performance of air filter materials, and the electrostatic adsorption is also playing an important role in filtration performance. Therefore, the evaluation of air filter materials in structure, electrostatic adsorption and filtration performance were carried out. Results PA6/PET filter composite materials was found to have the highest surface potential which reached to 1.414 kV and its filtration efficiency reached to 99.57%. In contrast, the composite materials with wood pulp paper as substrate showed the lowest surface potential which was 0.070 kV, corresponding to a filtration efficiency of 22.28%, due to the lack of electrostatic adsorption. The crystallinities of samples 1#- 6# were 40.7%、39.4%、44.2%、51.7%、47.6% and 43.5%, respectively. The pressure drops of ePTFE/ES hot-air cotton nonwoven filter composite materials, PTFE/ES hot-rolled nonwoven filter composite materials, and PTFE/ES hot-air cotton nonwoven filter composite materials were 59.7 Pa, 45.6 Pa, 58.8 Pa. The fiber diameter and structure of air filtration membrane also showed to have significant influence on the filtration performance of air filter materials. The smaller fiber diameter, smaller pore size, higher thickness, higher specific surface area resulted in a higher pressure drop and higher filtration efficiency. Conclusion The surface potential played the most important role in filtration performance of filter composite materials, the higher surface potential led to a higher filtration efficiency. Besides, the fiber diameter and pore structure and its distribution also had significant influence on filtration performance of filter composite materials. PTFE mirco-porous membrane was produced by stretching, which had lower pressure drop comparing with the nanofibrous membrane produced from electrospinning. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Three-dimensional virtual try-on network based on attention mechanism and vision transformer YUAN Tiantian, WANG Xin, LUO Weihao, MEI Chennan, WEI Jingyan, ZHONG Yueqi Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (07): 192-198.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220508401 Abstract （175）   HTML （21）    PDF （8097KB）（137）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Three-dimensional (3-D) virtual try-on can provide an intuitive and realistic view for online shopping and has great potential commercial value. However, there are some problems in the existing 3-D virtual try-on network, such as inaccurate generated 3-D human models, unclear model edges and excessive clothing deformation in the virtual fitting, which greatly limit the application of this technology in real scenarios. Method In order to solve the above problems, this research proposed the network named T3D-VTON, a deep neural network introducing convolutional attention mechanism and vision transformer. The network was designed to have three modules: 1) a convolutional block attention module that was added to the feature extraction module to make the network focus on the key information and reduce the influence of irrelevant information; 2) a depth estimation network which was created to adopt an encoder-decoder structure for the establishment of a multi-scale neural network combining Resnet and transformer; 3) a feature fusion module that aimed to fuse 2-D and 3-D information to obtain the final 3-D virtual fitting model. The effect of adding the convolution attention mechanism and vision transformer module on the performance of the network was investigated in details. The performance of the network is mainly expressed by the virtual fitting results and the accuracy of the human body model. Qualitative and quantitative comparative analyses were conducted between this experiment and the benchmark network. Results The quantitative experimental results showed that the structure similarity index measure (SSIM) was improved by 0.015 7 compared with the baseline network, and the peak signal-to-noise ratio (PSNR) improved by 0.113 2. The above results indicated that the image generation quality is improved without much loss of information. In terms of human model generation accuracy, compared to the baseline network, absolute relative error was reduced by 0.037 and square relative error was reduced by 0.014 in the results of depth estimation, indicating that the 3-D human model generated by this network was more accurate and the depth in the depth map was more consistent with the original given ground truth. The qualitative experimental results showed that the deformation of the garment fitted the original area of the target body more closely without excessive deformation and reduced the generation of garment artifacts. When dealing with complex textures, the network was able to better preserve the pattern and material of the garment fabric. The generated 3-D human body try-on model showed the front and side effects of the human body model, suggesting that the 3-D human body model generated by the network presents clearer contour edges and effectively eliminates the adhesion between the arms and the abdomen. When the knees are close to each other for example, the network would be able to eliminate the adhesion between the knees. Conclusion The convolutional block attention module and vision transformer introduced by the T3D-VTON network are able to preserve the textural patterns and brand logos on the garment surface when dealing with complex textures. The structure can effectively regulate the garment deformation and blend reasonably with the dressing area of the target character. When generating the 3-D human body model, the network can produce a clearer edge and has more accurate shape generation capability. The method can finally present a 3-D human body model with richer surface texture and more accurate body shape, which provides a fast and economical solution to realize a single image to 3-D virtual application. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Finite element analysis of supportive performance and dynamic comfort of sports bra SUN Yue, ZHOU Lingfang, ZHOU Qixuan, ZHANG Shichen, YICK Kit-lun Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (09): 180-187.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220706601 Abstract （175）   HTML （46）    PDF （7559KB）（136）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Without the adequate support and protection, females' breasts would suffer from troubles such as ligament rupture and mastitis during physical activities. Wearing sports bra could limit the movement of breasts, thus reducing the pain or discomfort during exercises. In order to predict and evaluate the function and comfort of sports bra, as well as to reduce the process of product design and development for intimate apparel industry, a dynamic contact finite element (FE) modeling system for human body and sports bra was constructed to evaluate the performance of sports bra with different design features from the aspects of control level and contact pressure. Method The data of female chest was obtained by 3-D body scanner to obtain the geometric model of breasts, body torso and sports bra. The method of interference fit was adopted to simulate the pre-tension of the breasts and sports bra after wearing. The displacement of the torso obtained from the motion capture system was used as the boundary condition to drive the finite element model under the gravity field. The motion of the breasts after wearing sports bra was simulated by this FE model and a parametric study was also conducted for different material parameters of the sports bra. Results The simulated results from the constructed FE contact model between human body and sports bra was validated with the motion capture experiment in terms of the nipple displacement. The calculated relative average absolute error was 4.13% (braless condition) and 5.15% (wearing sports bra) which denoted the accuracy of the FE method. Based on the numerical model, a parametric study was conducted to investigate different fabric materials on the control performance and wearing comfort. A virtual sports bra (SPB2) with higher Young's modulus, which was 5 times than the original tested sample SPB1, was introduced into the FE contact model. The maximum motion displacement of nipple when wearing SPB1 was 235.043 mm, while that was 228.861 mm for SPB2. The control effect of breast movement by SPB2 was increased by only 2.6% when comparing with SPB1. With regards to the contact pressure, it was revealed that in a static state, the shoulder strap has the highest contact pressure, followed by the lower under-band and the bottom of breasts (Tab. 3). It is mainly because the effects of gravity lead to the sagging of the breasts, thus the shoulder strap produces a corresponding force to support the breasts. The dynamic contact pressure extracted from different positions of human body showed that large fluctuations were detected at the bottom breasts for both SPB1 and SPB2, appearing periodically. The dynamic pressure in the position of shoulder straps, under-band and bottom breasts of SPB2 (0.30-1.19 kPa) was all higher than SPB1 (1.56-4.65 kPa) (Fig. 10), which was out the range of comfort pressure of human body (1.96-3.92 kPa). The results showed that although the higher Young's modulus of sports bra could strengthen the control performance slightly, the corresponding increase of contact pressure was higher than the comfortable clothing pressure range of the human body, which could easily cause the human body feel discomfort. Conclusion The breast displacement and the dynamic contact pressure between breasts and bra were evaluated quantitively by the proposed numerical simulation method. The supportive performance and wearing comfort by sports bra with different material properties were compared. This model can be utilized to investigate the complicated contact mechanism between the breasts and sports bra during physical activities, thus comprehensively guiding the fabric selection of sports bra from the perspective of functionality and comfort. The intimated apparel industry will be benefited by the proposed method in terms of optimizing the design for sports bra and shortening the development duration. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Spinning and microstructure and properties of photochromic polylactic acid fibers ZHAO Mingshun, CHEN Xiaoxiong, YU Jinchao, PAN Zhijuan Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (07): 10-17.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220203301 Abstract （169）   HTML （39）    PDF （7588KB）（159）       Knowledge map    Save Objective In response to the national theme of low-carbon environmental protection, replacing conventional petroleum-based fibers with degradable polymer fibers has become necessary. However, it seems to be a great challenge to obtain degradable polymer fibers photochromic properties while maintaining their mechanical properties. It is therefore necessary to develop photochromic fibers with mechanical properties and discoloration effects. Method The photochromic polylactic acid(PLA) fibers were prepared from PLA, and photochromic microcapsules by melt spinning and hot stretching processes, and their morphological, crystallographic, and thermal properties were systematically analyzed, with emphasis on the effect of photochromic microcapsules on the mechanical and reversible discoloration behavior of the fibers, so as to reveal the effect of the difference in fiber properties and their internal structure. Results The fiber morphology structure showed that the smooth cross-sections and surfaces (Fig. 1, Fig. 2) the pure PLA fibers. As the dosage of added photochromic microcapsules increased, the fibers were found to form more and more pores and defects, leading to the deterioration of the mechanical properties of the fibers. The photochromic PLA fibers prepared in this research demonstrated a breaking strength of 3.54-4.18 cN/dtex, an elongation at break of 19.27%-27.01%, and a modulus of elasticity of 55.67-58.66 cN/dtex (Fig. 3). With the increase in dosage of photochromic microcapsules, the breaking strength and elongation at the break of the fibers illustrated a decreasing trend. Even so, when the mass fraction of microcapsules was 6%, the breaking strength and elongation at the break of the fibers were still 3.54 cN/dtex and 20.21%, which could meet the requirements of subsequent processing. Furthermore, the crystallinity of fibers with the increase in dosage of photochromic microcapsules tended to rise and then fall (Fig. 5). The crystallinity of fibers without microcapsules addition was 50.22%. The maximum crystallinity of 55.42% was reached when the mass fraction of microcapsules was 2%. With the continuous increase of photochromic microcapsules, the crystallinity decreased to 47.62%. The photochromic properties of the photochromic PLA fibers (Fig. 6-8) showed high sensitivity, excellent photobleaching (Fig. 9) and photostability (Fig. 10) with the color change completed within 1 s and returning to the original color within 50 s. The fibers' photochromic intensity varied with the microcapsules' mass fraction. The discoloration intensity of the fibers increased with the mass fraction of photochromic microcapsules, but not linearly. In addition, the fiber has excellent durability, maintaining a stable color intensity during 50 cycles of discoloration. Conclusion Photochromic PLA fiber was successfully prepared by melt spinning technology, which has excellent mechanical properties, with a tensile breaking strength of 3.54-4.18 cN/dtex, elongation at break of 19.27%-27.01%, modulus of elasticity of 55.67-58.66 cN/dtex. Cut-in photochromic function presents high sensitivity, excellent photobleaching performance and photostability. The mechanical properties of fibers and the photochromic effect are closely related to the dispersion or aggregation state of photochromic microcapsules in the PLA matrix. When the mass fraction of microcapsules is low, their distribution in the PLA matrix is uniform, which is conducive to the orderly arrangement of PLA molecular chain segments and has a beneficial effect on the mechanical properties of fibers. When the mass fraction of microcapsules is high, the orderly arrangement of PLA molecular chain segments is hindered, which is the main factor affecting the mechanical properties of fibers. By adjusting the mass fraction of photochromic microcapsules, mutual coordination of fiber color change function was reached, leading to the possibility of achieving the mechanical properties of fibers. The fibers can be mass-produced by melt spinning, which has a broad application prospect in photochromic fabrics, anti-counterfeiting and military. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Development of personal comfort models based on machine learning and their application prospect in clothing engineering WANG Zhongyu, SU Yun, WANG Yunyi Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 228-236.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220303402 Abstract （165）   HTML （21）    PDF （3670KB）（108）       Knowledge map    Save Significance Human, clothing and external environment form an interactive system. As a barrier between the environment and human body, clothing directly affects the thermal comfort of people. It is indispensable to evaluate the thermal comfort or personal safety. However, individual differences would lead to discrepancy in subjective feelings and efficiency could be impaired if frequent subjective assessment is needed in working process. Therefore, effectively predicting the thermal comfort of individuals and returning timely suggestions to improve the micro-environment between clothing and body would be necessary. Conventional thermal comfort models including steady-state heat transfer models, thermal adaptative models and dynamic thermal physiology models were established based on physical equations or data from general population, without considering individual differences. Therefore, new methods should be introduced to study the personal thermal comfort. Researches have been carried out on the application of machine learning algorithms to establish personal thermal comfort models, predicting individual thermal comfort through data-driven methods. Compared with conventional models, the prediction of the personal thermal comfort models is significantly improved. The models overcome the defects of the conventional models which are complicated and inflexible, predict thermal comfort in real time, and are beneficial to improve of micro thermal environment more efficiently. Progress The personal thermal comfort models established by machine learning could be regarded as a supervised learning process. Sample source, input features and output labels, machine learning algorithms and evaluation indicators are the main influencing factors encountered during the establishment. Sample source brings about the question of applicability. Models built upon laboratory data may not be fit for field studies, neither are models established with mild environments' data suitable for extreme conditions. The sample size for achieving stable prediction varied from models. Generally, input characteristic parameters included environmental parameters collected from the surrounding environment or meteorological platform, and individual parameters reflecting the state of the human, could be both considered when collecting input features. Subjective evaluation index as output labels depended on research purpose and the evaluation of human thermal comfort should consider at least two subjective indexes, including symmetric and asymmetric ones. When selecting machine learning algorithms, the sample size and applicability of the algorithm also should be taken into account, as well as the cost and interpretability. Evaluating the prediction performance helps to confirm the validity of models especially when conducting multi-index evaluation. Indexes such as accuracy, precision, recall are suitable for the binary-classification conditions, while Kappa coefficient could handle the multi-classification and imbalanced datasets. The models based on machine learning has a broad application prospect in clothing due to its personalization, flexibility and dynamic predictions. Developing intelligent temperature regulating clothing that could predict the thermal comfort of individuals in real time and change the control strategies accordingly has become a research hotspot. Personal thermal comfort models provide a feasible technical path by combining software and wearable hardware systems. Once achieved, the thermal security would be guaranteed and the work efficiency improved. Conclusion and Prospect Personal thermal comfort models based on machine learning algorithm is a new method to achieve individual thermal comfort prediction, which has the advantages of user personalization, multi-dimensional input parameters and dynamic prediction. At present, some progress has been made in the research of this model, which is summarized as follows. 1) The data of the model usually come from simulated experiment environment or actual working environment, but the prediction model based on the two kinds of data is not universal. Therefore, the reasons and solutions for the differences can be further explored to expand the application scope of the model. 2) Personal thermal comfort is mainly affected by the environment and individual factors. The selection of feature parameters should adopt multi-parameter combination with different properties, and the number of feature parameters should be controlled according to different algorithms. When applied in the field of clothing research, attention should be paid to comprehensively consider the influence of clothing on human thermal regulation. 3) A variety of indicators are involved when evaluating models' prediction performance, and the evaluation objects and applicability of which should be considered. In order to overcome the limitation and incomparability of single index evaluation, future studies might focus on multi-index comprehensive evaluation to evaluate the model's prediction and generalization ability. 4) Personal thermal comfort models established by machine learning algorithm has high application value in the field of intelligent clothing. The modeling technique's improvement could provide key technical support for development of intelligent temperature regulating clothing. Accordingly, the real time thermal comfort requirements of operators would be met, while operational efficiency and thermal safety could be guaranteed. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Preparation and properties of superhydrophobic thermal insulating polyester nanofiber/silica aerogel composite membranes LIU Dunlei, LU Jiaying, XUE Tiantian, FAN Wei, LIU Tianxi Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (07): 18-25.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220301301 Abstract （165）   HTML （22）    PDF （5989KB）（135）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Polyester fiber has the advantages of high strength, high elasticity, good conformability and low cost, which occupies an important position in the modern textile industry. Especially, polyester nanofiber membranes prepared by electro-spinning have a three-dimensional porous structure, excellent air permeability and high production efficiency, and received extensive attention. However, polyester nanofiber membranes have high hydrophilicity, high thermal conductivity and poor thermal stability, which are regarded as disadvantages. Therefore, it is of great importance to develop thermal insulating polyester membranes with low thermal conductivity, superhydrophobicity and flexibility for the thermal protection of workers in extreme hot and humid environments. Method Superhydrophobic thermal insulating polyester nanofiber/silica (PETS) aerogel composite membranes were prepared by in-situ condensation of silica aerogel in the polyester nanofiber, followed by hydrophobic treatment, solvent exchange and ambient pressure drying. The structural and mechanical properties of PETS aerogel composite membrane were characterized and analyzed by scanning electron microscopy, and a universal tensile testing machine. Thermal insulating properties of PETS aerogel composite membranes were characterized by infrared thermal imager and hot disk thermal analyzer in humid environments. Results PET and PETS aerogel composite membranes were shown to have the construction of silica aerogels in the polyester nanofibers created by in-situ condensation (Fig. 2). Within the polyester nanofiber membrane, the silica aerogel gradually developed a continuous three-dimensional porous structure as the molar ratio of ethanol to tetraethyl orthosilicate increase to 10∶1 (Fig. 4). As the content of silica aerogel increased, the tensile break strength of PETS aerogel composite membrane demonstrated a gradually decrease. Notably, the PETS10 aerogel composite membrane had a stable structure in high temperature environment because the silica aerogel was tightly bound to the surface of PET nanofibers as an inorganic protective layer, which effectively inhibited the structural collapse of polyester nanofibers. Furthermore, the thermal conductivity of PETS10 aerogel composite membrane was only 66.5 mW/(m·K) at 150 ℃, while the pure polyester nanofiber membrane was seriously deformed and its thermal conductivity was as high as 135.6 mW/(m·K) (Fig. 7). This was attributed to the three-dimensional nanopore structure of silica aerogel, which effectively inhibited heat transfer and endued the PETS aerogel composite membrane excellent thermal insulating properties. Benefiting from the replacement of hydrophilic Si—OH by hydrophobic Si—CH3 in silica wet gels, the PETS aerogel composite membrane exhibited superhydrophobi-city (water contact angle of 153°) compared to the polyester nanofiber membrane (water contact angle of 17°) (Fig. 8). Therefore, the superhydrophobic PETS could effectively prevent the adsorption of water molecules, and its thermal conductivity was 74.5 mW/(m·K) at 50 ℃ and 100% high humidity, while the thermal conductivity of pure polyester nanofiber membrane was as high as 170.6 mW/(m·K) (Fig. 9). Compared with silica aerogel composites previously reported, PETS aerogel composite membrane showed a lower thermal conductivity, indicating its great potential for thermal insulation in high-temperature and humid environments. Conclusion The PETS aerogel composite membrane is found to exhibit excellent temperature resistance, superhydrophobicity, and thermal insulation capabilities. The interfacial bonding between SiO2 aerogel and PET nanofiber can be optimized by controlling the functional groups of the silica wet gel, thus further optimizing the mechanical properties of the PETS aerogel composite membrane. Furthermore, this strategy can also be used for modifing other nanofiber membranes with good generalizability. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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One-bath process for bleaching and dyeing of polyester-covered cotton fabric using disperse dye with high resistance to alkalis and peroxides WANG Xiaoyan, MA Ziting, XU Changhai Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 38-45.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221201701 Abstract （163）   HTML （13）    PDF （5061KB）（140）       Knowledge map    Save Objective The inner cotton component of polyester-covered cotton fabric is soft, comfortable, sweat-permeable and air-permeable, and the outer polyester component is anti-wrinkle and wear-resistant. Polyester-covered cotton fabric is widely used in daily wear, school uniforms, firefighting apparel, sanitation apparel and other fields. However, the conventional processes for bleaching and dyeing polyester-covered cotton fabrics have problems of high consumptions of water and energy, and low production efficiency. This research aims to use a disperse dye with high resistance to alkalis and peroxides to construct a one-bath process for bleaching and dyeing polyester-covered cotton fabrics. Method The selected disperse dye was evaluated for its resistance to alkalis and peroxides. Experiments were carried out to investigate the influence of hydrogen peroxide concentration, processing time, and processing temperature on the performances of bleaching and dyeing in one bath. The optimal process was defined by monitoring the whiteness of cotton component and the color depth (K/S) value of the polyester component. Results The synthesized disperse dye was shown to be of high alkali-resistant and high peroxide-resistant type, withstanding dyeing with at 2 g/L NaOH alkali regulator concentration and 5 g/L H2O2 (30%) (Tabs.2 and 4). One-bath process for bleaching and dyeing polyester-covered cotton fabrics was designed based on the synthesized disperse dye with high resistance to alkali and peroxide. The influence of H2O2 concentrations and temperature maintaining time on the whiteness and K/S value of polyester-covered cotton fabric treated by one-bath dyeing polyester and bleaching cotton process were tested, respectively. Under the conditions of 2 g/L of H2O2 (30%) and a temperature maintaining time of 0 min at 100 ℃, the whiteness of the cotton component of the polyester-covered cotton fabric reached 80, almost the same as the whiteness obtained by the conventional process. In addition, the concentration of H2O2 (30%) and temperature maintaining time were shown to have no influence on the K/S value of the polyester component (Fig.5). Therefore, the optimal H2O2 (30%) concentration was selected to be 2 g/L and the optimal temperature maintaining time 0 min at 100 ℃. In order to further analyze the bleaching and dyeing effect of polyester-covered cotton fabrics under high temperature and high pressure treatment, the influence of processing time on the whiteness and K/S value of polyester-covered cotton fabrics treated with one-bath dyeing polyester and bleaching cotton process were investigated (Fig.7). It was found that the polyester-covered cotton fabrics could be optimally bleached and dyed in one bath under the conditions of 2 g/L of H2O2 (30%), 130 ℃ and 30 min. The one-bath process treated polyester-covered cotton fabric lead to a 8% bursting strength loss, showing around CIE whiteness 80 of cotton component and good moisture permeability (Tabs.5 and 6). Meanwhile, the color difference of dyed polyester component treated by the one-bath process and conventional process was lower than 1.0. The dyed polyester component provided by one-bath process had rubbing and washing color fastness of grade 4-5 or above, and sublimation color fastness of grade 4 or above. Conclusion One-bath process for bleaching cotton component and dyeing polyester component of polyester-covered cotton fabric has been achieved by a disperse dye with high resistances to alkalis and peroxides. The polyester-covered cotton fabrics could be optimally bleached and dyed in one bath under the conditions of 2 g/L of hydrogen peroxide (30%), 130 ℃ and 30 min. Compared with the conventional process, the one-bath process provided a polyester-covered cotton fabric that had less bursting strength loss, a comparable degree of whiteness (around CIE whiteness 80) and an acceptable color difference (ΔECMC< 1.0). The polyester-covered cotton fabric processed in one bath had color fastnesses of grade 4 or above. Therefore, the one-bath process of the polyester-covered cotton fabric for bleaching and dyeing has the advantages in shortening process flow, and saving costs in water and energy. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Study on disperse dye staining on polyester/cotton blended fabrics in non-aqueous medium dyeing system YI Jingyuan, PEI Liujun, ZHU He, ZHANG Hongjuan, WANG Jiping Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 29-37.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221005001 Abstract （161）   HTML （15）    PDF （3191KB）（181）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Fabrics made from blended fibers demonstrate their advantages and enrich textiles diversification, of which polyester/cotton blended fabrics are most widely used in the textile and fashion industry. In order to save energy and reduce emission, non-aqueous media dyeing technology has been applied to the dyeing of polyester/cotton blended fabrics, using non-aqueous media, such as decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5), paraffin liquid, cooking oil and so on. Nevertheless, the phenomenon of staining persists during the dyeing process of polyester/cotton blended fabrics, resulting in decreased production efficiency and heightened pollution. This paper aims to investigate the mechanism behind the staining of cotton components in polyester/cotton blended fabric by disperse dyes in non-aqueous dyeing systems, with the objective of mitigating the staining of dyes during the dyeing process. Method Based on the determination of azo dyes which have high uptake rate and suitable for polyester dyeing in non-aqueous media, and anthraquinone and heterocyclic dyes commonly used in conventional water bath, this research focused the dyeing and staining of disperse dye for polyester/cotton blended fabric in non-aqueous medium dyeing system. The influence of disperse dye structure, dyeing temperature, accelerant, dyeing time and dispersant NNO on the disperse dye staining, and dyeing effect of polyester/cotton blended fabric in non-aqueous medium dyeing system were investigated. Owing to the structure of polyester/cotton blends, it was difficult to isolate cotton staining for independent study. Therefore, conducting experimental research using 1.3 g of polyester fabric and 0.7 g of cotton fabric to simulate 2 g of polyester/cotton(65/35) blended fabric was necessary to gain a better understanding of the degree of cotton staining, and to demonstrate it more intuitively. One-bath-two-steps method was used for dyeing. In order to investigate the influence of dyeing conditions on dyeing performance, C.I Disperse Red 177 was chosen as disperse dye in the subsequent experiments. The uptake rate and staining rate of disperse dyes were calculated by measuring the amount of dye in the dyeing residue and the stripping solution. The distribution of disperse dye on polyester/cotton fabric was characterized by the relative staining rate of disperse dye. Results The uptake rate of anthraquinone disperse dyes on polyester in non-aqueous medium dyeing system was only 12.0%, which was too low for dyeing polyester/cotton blends ( Fig.2 and Fig.3). The uptake rate of azo and heterocyclic disperse dyes on polyester components was above 80%. The complexity of disperse dye structure, the number of molecular substituents, molecular planarity, and relative molecular weight showed great influence on the uptake and staining of disperse dye. C.I. Disperse Red 177 was chosen as a representative azo disperse dye, and the results of the uptake of dye and the color depth of the dyed fabric indicated that the Disperse Red 177 had a higher uptake rate and it was more efficient using in non-aqueous medium. The influence of temperature on dyeing performance of polyester/cotton blended fabrics was investigated in non-aqueous medium with different contents of accelerant X (Fig.4). No matter what content of accelerant, raising the dyeing temperature was found to improve obviously the dyeing performance of disperse dyes on polyester/cotton blended fabric. The accelerant affected the dyeing/staining of polyester and cotton simultaneously (Fig.5) because the swelling degree of polyester and cotton fiber were improved at the same time when a certain amount of dye accelerant was employed during dyeing, and because the resistance of disperse dyes to diffusion into inside of fiber was decreased. It revealed from the research that the swelling degree of polyester fiber was less than that of cotton fiber, and the relative staining rate of disperse dyes was increased with the increasing content of dye accelerant. Polyester/cotton blended fabric dyeing was carried out for different dyeing time periods to investigate the relationship between the dyeing time and the dyeing performance (Fig.6), suggesting that dyeing time had little influence on the staining of of disperse dye but it would increase the uptake of disperse dyes. The addition of dispersant NNO in the dyeing process would not improve the dyeing performance of disperse dyes (Tab.2), but it had an influence on the staining rate of disperse dyes. Conclusion Based on the uptake/staining rate and the relative staining rate of disperse dyes, azo dyes are more suitable than anthraquinone and heterocyclic disperse dyes for dyeing polyester/cotton blended fabric in non-aqueous media dyeing system. Polyester/cotton blended fabric dyed with Disperse Red 177 was more effective and efficient in non-aqueous medium dyeing system. The optimum dyeing conditions for disperse dyes were found, which were 140 ℃ of dyeing temperature, 10% (o.w.f) of dyeing accelerant, and 60 min of dyeing time period. If the dye accelerant and dispersant NNO were used in the dyeing bath at the same time, the disperse dyes were easy to aggregate, and the staining of dye on the surface of the dyed fabric becomes seriously, resulting the level dyeing property was poor, indicating that the accelerant and dispersant NNO should not used in a same non-aqueous media dyeing system. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Detection methods for yarn capture state with automatic knotter TU Jiajia, LI Changzheng, DAI Ning, SUN Lei, MAO Huimin, SHI Weimin Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 205-212.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211005501 Abstract （160）   HTML （4）    PDF （4727KB）（33）       Knowledge map    Save Objective With the continuous advancement of intelligent manufacturing process in knitting department, automatic bobbin changing and thread continuation of yarn frame are technical difficulties to be solved urgently. Aiming at the problem that it is impossible to detect the capture state of head yarn and tail yarn when using mechanical knotter to complete yarn joint on yarn frame, which leads to the inability to realize intelligent manufacturing in the knitting workshop, this paper proposes a detection method based on image pixel point measurement. Method Based on the working principle of mechanical knotting machine, a yarn detection and recognition mechanism which integrates the installation box, camera module and light source was proposed. The mechanism was fixed on the transparent tube between the fan and the suction nozzle. Through the small embedded module, images were collected and processed including pixel counting and signals output in real time. The developed technique facilitated the low-cost yarn capture state detection on the yarn frame. Results After the knotter moves to the position near the end line, the image without yarn is collected, and the initial number of white pixels is obtained after processing. 200 Groups of data are randomly selected to obtain the curve (Fig.9). The abscissa is the number of tests, and the ordinate is the number of pixels. The initial value of the number of white pixels varies between 24 592 and 24 651, and the maximum variation is only 59. After getting the initial value of the number of pixels, the system controls to clear it to get the corresponding number of pixels when there is no yarn. Theoretically, the number of pixels after clearing is 0. However, due to a small amount of light leakage in the installation box and the high sensitivity of pixel measurement, there is still a numerical fluctuation. Therefore, 200 groups of data are randomly selected to obtain the curve (Fig.10). The number of pixels without yarn after zeroing varies from 0 to 55. Then the head line and tail line absorption experiments were carried out at 5 different positions. After the head line is captured, the number of pixels changes significantly, and is far greater than its maximum fluctuation value of 55. At the same time, the curve fluctuation amplitude is close to that in Figs.9 and 10, which proves that the head line capture state can be recognized by measuring image pixels. In addition, the position has a great impact on the number of pixels, with a range of 204-512. After the two yarns are captured successfully, the change trend of the number of pixels obtained is basically consistent with that of a single yarn, and the number of pixels corresponding to positions 2 to 5 changes significantly more than that of a single yarn, so the capture status of the head thread and tail thread can be detected and recognized normally. The number of pixel points corresponding to position 1 is less than or close to positions 3 to 5 (Fig.11), but there is still a significant difference compared with the number of pixel points of single yarn position 1 and two yarn position 1. Conclusion In this paper, taking the automatic bobbin change and thread continuation of the circular weft frame as an example, a yarn absorption detection algorithm based on image pixels is proposed according to the working principle of the mechanical knotting machine, and a special installation box and embedded module for yarn detection are designed, which achieves the online real-time recognition function of the bobbin head yarn and tail yarn absorption status before knotting. At the same time, through the experimental test and demonstration application of single and multiple absorption of common yarns with different colors, it is verified that this method has the advantages of high detection sensitivity, small size, low cost, etc. In addition, the detection mechanism and method are also applicable to wire break detection and other fields, so it has good promotion and application value. However, in-depth research on yarn contour, broken thread detection, yarn specification identification and the impact of vibration on the identification effect will be necessary for future work to further improve its applicability and stability. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Photodegradation mechanism and pathway of visible light-response mesoporous TiO2 for Rhodamine B WANG Guoqin, FU Xiaohang, ZHU Yuke, WU Liguang, WANG Ting, JIANG Xiaojia, CHEN Huali Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 155-163.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220503201 Abstract （160）   HTML （6）    PDF （7475KB）（93）       Knowledge map    Save Objective In order to promote the practical application of deep treatment of organic pollutants in slightly polluted water bodies using heterogeneous photocatalysis, mesoporous TiO2 photocatalyst as a novel photocatalyst with a pore size of 2-50 nm has a particle size of larger than 200 nm, so it was very easy to recycle, thus avoiding the potential nano-toxicity of the nano photocatalyst. Method In order to obtain a visible-light-responsive mesoporous TiO2 photocatalyst, chiral mesoporous TiO2 with spirally-stacked structure was prepared by a soft template method constructed with chiral surfactants. By means of various characterization methods such as X-ray spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy, surface area and pore size analysis, and circular dichroism (CD), the differences in structure and visible light response of chiral mesoporous TiO2 and achiral mesoporous TiO2 were compared and analyzed. The photodegradation experiment for Rhodamine B (RhB) under visible light excitation was adopted to evaluate their catalytic performance, thus exploring the mechanism and pathway for degrading RhB by chiral mesoporous TiO2. Results The average pore diameters of the two mesoporous TiO2 were 6.4 nm and 8.6 nm. The specific surface area, pore volume and pore size of chiral mesoporous TiO2 prepared by chiral surfactants were slightly smaller than those of achiral mesoporous TiO2. The particle size of the chiral mesoporous TiO2 particles was about 200 nm, and it presented an obvious helical packing structure, which also showed a significant chiral correspondence effect. On the other hand, the morphology of achiral mesoporous TiO2 did not show the structure of helical stacking, but only showed the aggregation structure of some particles. Both chiral mesoporous TiO2and achiral mesoporous TiO2had two mixed crystal forms of anatase and rutile (Fig.4). The helical stacking structure of chiral mesoporous TiO2 introduced more defects into the catalyst, so that the contents of Ti3+ and oxygen holes were higher than those of mesoporous TiO2 (Fig.5). Owing to its large specific surface area and excellent visible light response performance, chiral mesoporous TiO2 had a high degradation activity for RhB (the removal rate reached 78% within 5 h), and the degradation process conformed to first-order kinetics (Fig.6). The photocatalytic performance of achiral mesoporous TiO2 (the removal rate was only 16% within 5 h) was much lower than that of chiral mesoporous TiO2(Fig.6). Although the adsorption performance of the two catalysts for RhB was similar, the removal rate of RhB by chiral mesoporous TiO2 was more than 4 times that of achiral mesoporous TiO2(Fig.6). Radical trapping experiments and electron spin resonance (ESR) spectroscopy showed that the active species of chiral mesoporous TiO2 to degrade organic pollutant molecules under the excitation of visible light are ·O2-, ·OH and photogenerated h+ (Fig.7 and 8). When capturing ·O2-, ·OH and h+ during the photodegradation, the removal rates for RhB by the chiral mesoporous TiO2 decreased by 19.2%, 39.7% and 60.2%, respectively, compared with the photodegradation process without adding capture agent (Fig.7). It showed that ·O2-, ·OH and h+ all participated in the degradation of RhB as active species in the photodegradation process. And h+ was the main active species for degrading organic pollutants, followed by ·OH, and ·O2- was the least involved in the photodegradation (Fig.8). The calculation of the Fukui index (f-) of each atom in the RhB molecule proved that the atomic sites that were more likely to give electrons were easily attacked by photogenerated holes for degradation (Fig.9). By analyzing the intermediate products generated during the degradation process (Tab.2), the main pathway of the RhB degradation by chiral mesoporous TiO2 under irradiation of visible light was further obtained (Fig.10). Conclusion From the results of our work, the degradation pathway of RhB pollutants was obtained. The first step was that h+ attacked on the C—N bond of the RhB molecules to remove the ethyl group. Then, multiple demethylation and deethylation reactions, and deamination processes were carried out. Until the vulnerable C—N bond site disappears, the h+ would attack the carboxyl group with high electron density and the benzene ring to enable the ring-opening reaction to be continued, and finally RhB was mineralized into CO2, H2O and other inorganic substances. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Weaving process modeling and micro-geometry prediction of three-dimensional orthogonal woven fabrics MA Ying, XIANG Weihong, ZHAO Yang, DENG Congying, LU Sheng, ZENG Xianjun Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (06): 105-113.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210403501 Abstract （159）   HTML （13）    PDF （16804KB）（91）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Fiber-reinforced polymer composites comprise aligned, random, or woven fibers in polymeric matrix. The commonly used woven fabric-reinforced composites made of high-performance fibers are frequently used in applications that require durability in aggressive environments. To achieve deep-level exploitation for engineering applications, modelling of the fabric's microgeometry and the mechanical response is crucial. However, research to characterize these microstructures highly depends on its microscope images and assumes constant yarn cross-sectional shape, which is not the case for most woven fabric types. Since the fiber architecture of woven fabrics has a profound effect on their mechanical properties, a dynamic simulator capable of modelling fabric weaving process considering textile mechanics is necessary. Method A dynamic textile weaving simulator was established to link weaving actions to fabric patterns and microstructures. Digital element approach (DEA) was implemented under the framework of the software package digital fabric and mechanics analyzer (DFMA). This method established the geometrical model of the key components of a loom. Yarn interlacing motion was guided by weaving matrix specified by steps. Shedding, weft insertion, beat-up, let-off motion, and take-up actions are modelled. The inter-fiber contact force, fiber forces (tensile, shear, and bending), and boundary conditions in weft direction are considered utilizing the central difference algorithm. The weaving process of four unit-cells in the warp direction of a 10-layer three-dimensional orthogonal woven fabric was explicitly modelled at filament-level to derive for its microgeometry. Results It took 160 steps in total to complete the process, each cell takes 40 steps to weave. During each step, heddles lift or lower the connected warp or binder yarn to form a space between the fell and heddle. Then, the shuttle moves across the encircled space and layers on weft yarn followed by the beat-up motion. The results show that the micro-geometry of the unit-cell is affected by neighboring cells and subjected to change during the weaving process. Take cell two as an example. In step 80, the right edge of the weft yarns was lined up with the reed at the fell, leaving an empty triangular region encircled by binder yarns. After weaving cell three (step 120), the empty space had disappeared and was filled with filaments, causing a reduction in cell thickness and width. The microstructure of cell two ceases to change at approximately step 160 or beyond. The thickness and length of cell two decrease and its microstructures converge with further weaving steps. During yarn-interlacing and shedding motion, the microstructure of the weft yarns next to the fell changes drastically. When some of the warp yarns are raised and the rest are lowered, the fabric next to the fell rips open between the warp yarns in the up and down positions. A V-shaped passage much larger than the yarn cross-sectional area was formed, causing filaments inside the passage to scatter in random directions in an extremely loose state. These filaments were disrupted again by the beating motion before deforming back into a racetrack cross-sectional shape. When the weft yarns on top were pushed to the fell, the filaments circled by warp yarns and the fell bundled up tightly together to form a triangular cross-sectional shape. It changes into a semi-lenticular shape as the weaving process continues. The microstructure, thickness, crimp angle, and cell width of cell two are measured and compared to the actual specimen. The discrepancies are 1.37%, 0.75% and 0.39%, respectively. Conclusion A dynamic textile weaving simulator which explicitly models shedding, weft insertion, beat-up, let-off motion, and take-up actions was established. This method fully models loom kinetics and kinematics and is capable of generating multiple cells in consecutive. The weaving process of a 10-layer three-dimensional orthogonal woven fabric was successfully modelled step-by-step at the filament level. Four cells in warp direction were produced. The simulation process reveals the revolution of weft yarn microstructure during shedding and beating motion and therefore concluded that the fabric microgeometry changes during weaving. It takes approximately 80 steps (the number of steps to produce two cells in the lengthwise direction in this case) for the microstructure of a newly woven cell to converge. The stress, as well as the cross-sectional shape of weft yarns are approximately symmetrical from top to bottom. The cross sections of the second cell in the warp direction closely match the microscopy images and accurately capture the main characteristics of the fabric, as regard to the fabric thickness, yarn crimp, yarn path, and cross-sectional shapes. This work provides a reliable method for weaving process study and the findings give valuable insights into fabric design and manufacture instruction. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Preparation and properties of regenerated silk fibroin/polyvinyl alcohol blended nanofiber membranes with predesigned orientation YAO Shuangshuang, FU Shaoju, ZHANG Peihua, SUN Xiuli Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (09): 11-19.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220309601 Abstract （156）   HTML （27）    PDF （7430KB）（81）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Non-oriented nanofiber membranes are usually obtained on the receiving device due to instable movement of polymer jet in electrospinning. Oriented nanofiber membranes are obtained by changing the receiving device and other methods.Compared with non-oriented nanofiber membranes,oriented nanofiber membranes have the advantages of regular fiber arrangement and good mechanical properties. The paper proposes the preparation of oriented nanofiber membranes by electrospinning with regenerated silk fibroin (RSF) and polyvinyl alcohol (PVA) as raw materials,and potential applications of oriented nanofiber membranes in the field of textile biomedicine. Method The optimal spinning parameters were determined by single factor experiment and orthogonal experiment,and the morphology,chemical structure,mechanical properties,thermal stability,pore size distribution of oriented nanofiber membranes were studied with the assistance of scanning electron microscopes,Fourier transform infrared spectrometer,medical multi-function strength tester,synchronous thermal analyzer,and porous material pore size analyzer. Results Based on the nanofiber membrane morphology obtained from single factor experiment and orthogonal experiment (Fig. 1,Tab. 2 and Fig. 2),it was evident that the optimal electrospinning parameters for preparing RSF/PVA blended oriented nanofiber membranes were as follows, formic acid as the solvent,roller speed of 2 400 r/min,spinning fluid concentration of 0.16 g/mL,spinning voltage of 23 kV,outflow velocity of 0.6 mL/h,and receiving distance of 17 cm.Under these parameters,the oriented nanofiber membranes demonstrated regular morphology and high orientation (Fig. 3 and Tab. 3). It can be seen from the infrared spectra of RSF power,PVA grain and RSF/PVA oriented fiber membranes (Fig. 4) that compared with RSF powder,part of amorphous structure in the oriented nanofiber membranes was transformed into the ɑ helix structure. The stretching effect of the high-speed roller on the fiber was conductive to improving the degree of orientation and crystallinity of nanofiber membranes,thus the breaking strength of the oriented nanofiber membranes obtained under the same spinning time was more than two times that of the non-oriented nanofiber membranes, but the elongation rate at break was lower than that of the latter (Tab. 4).The oriented and non-oriented nanofiber membranes almost coincide,and both begin to decompose at 284 ℃ with their thermal decomposition rates fastest at 312 ℃ (Fig.7),indicating that the thermal stability of the oriented and non-oriented nanofiber membranes was similar,and the stretching and alignment of fibers by the high-speed roller had substantially no effect on the thermal stability of RSF/PVA nanofiber membranes.The pore sizes of oriented and non-oriented nanofiber membranes were distributed in 0.46-1.50 μm and 0.08-0.48 μm, respectively,and were concentrated near 0.5 μm and 0.1 μm, respectively,indicating that oriented nanofiber membranes had larger pore sizes and were expected to be used in the field of textile biomedicines. Conclusion RSF and PVA were electrospinned into oriented nanofiber membranes.The optimal spinning parameters were determined by single-factor experiment and orthogonal experiment,and the morphology,chemical structure, mechanical properties and thermal stability of nanofiber membranes were studied. The experimental results showed that part of the amorphous structure in the oriented nanofiber membranes was transformed into the ɑ helix structure; and the oriented nanofiber membranes had higher strength than the non-oriented nanofiber membranes,but had lower elongation at break under the same spinning time. And the pore sizes in the oriented nanofiber membranes were larger than that of the non-oriented ones and the oriented structure has substantially no effect on the thermal stability of the nanofiber membranes. The experimental results provided a theoretical basis for further enhancing the application potential of oriented nanofiber membranes in the field of textile biomedicine. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Influences of twist and twist direction arrangement on properties of double covered yarns AO Limin, TANG Wen Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (07): 50-56.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220305901 Abstract （155）   HTML （11）    PDF （4839KB）（77）       Knowledge map    Save Objective In order to explore the influence of the twist direction and twist configuration of the double wrapping on the structure and properties of the double covered yarns, the influences of twist and twist direction arrangement on the structure, tensile fracture performance and twist balance of covered yarns were experimentally investigated and analyzed, which were produced using the hollow spindle method with double wrapping. Method Three 111 dtex (48 f) untwisted polyester draw texturing yarn (DTY) filament yarns with different colors were employed as raw materials with unchanged wrapping twist, double covered yarns with SZ cross-wrapped and SS co-wrapped were spun separately each with 6 twist ratios, using hollow spindle covering machine. The covering structures of the covered yarns were analyzed by visual observation of the partial enlarged photographs of covered yarns, while the twist balance indexes were tested by open loop method and the tensile mechinical properties were tested by yarn tensile tester. Results The spinning principle of double covered yarns was explained, and the structural model of the two twist direction arrangement of the same direction wrapping and the reverse (cross) wrapping were establi-shed (Fig. 1 and 2). Partial enlarged views of two types of double covered yarns showed that both types of covered yarns presented mixed color of core yarn and wrapped yarn, and it was found that with the increase of secondary wrapped twist, the finer the degree of color block segmentation mixed and the finer the texture of covered yarn. Meanwhile, the cross-wrapped was found to be able to form a clear layered wrapping structure. Double covered yarns and raw filament yarn showed similar force-extension curves, and the differences were only in the characteristic values like yield load and yield elongation, breaking strength and elongation at break, based on 50 core yarn tests. SZ cross-wrapped and SS co-wrapped covered yarns were produced with twist ratio of 0.9. The tensile test results of three types of raw yarn and two types of 12 covered yarns presented the changes of breaking strengths and their CV value, elongations at break and their CV value and strength efficiencies along with the changes of twist direction and twist ratio of twice wrapping (Tab. 1). Different twist direction and twist ratio arrangement produced different twist balance in the double covered yarn, the snarl index test results of 12 composite yarns showed the self-twisting direction, mean values of snarl indexes and their CV value for 10 tests of the two types of double covered yarns with different twist directions and twist ratios (Tab. 2). Conclusion It was discovered that co-wrapped can not form a layered wrapping structure similar to cross-wrapped, and the strength efficiencies of the two types of covered yarns are greater than 1. The elongations at break are increased by more than 25%, and the strength of covered yarns increase first and then decrease with the increase of twist ratio, but the change range are small. The residual torques of the twice wrappings are not a simple superimposition. The second wrapping has a consolidation effect on the residual torque of the primary wrapping, and the snarl index of co-wrapped covered yarn is much larger than that of cross-wrapped. Reasonable configurating of the twist ratio of the twice wrapping can significantly reduce the snarl index of the cross-wrapped covered yarn. This paper would provide reference for the process design of double wrapped covered yarn. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Mechanical properties of carbon fiber reinforced epoxy resin woven composites based on DIGIMAT DUAN Chenghong, WU Gangben, LUO Xiangpeng Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (07): 126-131.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220103101 Abstract （153）   HTML （11）    PDF （5994KB）（67）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Braided composites have many advantages such as high specific strength, high specific stiffness, high impact damage tolerance and designable mechanical properties, and have been widely used in aerospace, machinery and other fields, and it is particularly important to optimize or design their mechanical properties. In this paper, based on a new composite simulation software DIGIMAT, a representative volume element (RVE)considering the kink defects of fiber bundles with fiber path is established to accurately and quickly predict the equivalent elastic properties of the material at different braiding angles and to explore the influence of the weaving angle on them; and then the stress distribution of two-dimensional triaxially braided composite RVE is obtained to provide a basis for further study of its damage and failure. Method Although the internal structure of two-dimensional triaxially braided composites is relatively complex, it has a certain periodic distribution on the mesoscale. Therefore, an RVE considering the kink defects caused by fiber bundles along the fiber path was established by using the nonlinear composite modeling platform DIGIMAT, and the equivalent elastic properties of materials were predicted based on the DIGIMAT-MF module mean field homogenization method. Based on the strength failure criterion, the DIGIMAT-FE module was adopted to predict the mechanical properties of braided composites with different braiding angles under uniaxial tensile loading (peak strain of 0.5%). Results The equivalent engineering constants of two-dimensional triaxial braided composite RVE were predicted with the longitudinal tensile modulus E1 of 48.33 GPa, the transverse tensile modulus E2 of 6.70 GPa, and the longitudinal Poisson's ratio μ12 of 0.71, the transverse Poisson's ratio μ23 of 0.45, and the shear modulus G12 of 6.77 GPa. In addition, nine braiding angles of 15°, 19°, 23°, 27°, 30°, 35°, 37°, 41° and 45° were selected to analyze their influence on the equivalent engineering constant. The longitudinal tensile modulus E1 was inversely proportional to the braiding angle. With the increase of braiding angle, E1 demonstrated a gradual decrease, whereas the transverse tensile modulus E2 showed an opposite trend. With the increase of braiding angle, the longitudinal shear modulus G12 firstly increased and then decreased, while the transverse shear modulus G23 remained virtually unchanged (Fig. 3). With the gradual increase of braiding angle, the longitudinal Poisson's ratio μ12 first increased and then decreased, while the transverse Poisson's ratio μ23 shows a decreasing trend (Fig. 4). The longitudinal uniaxial tensile simulation of two-dimensional triaxially braided composite RVE with different braiding angles showed that the elastic modulus of the material decreases with the increase of braiding angle, while the fracture strain is the opposite (Fig. 5). From the contour, it can be observed that the overall stress distribution is not uniform, and the stress peak tends to appear at the yarn, while the stress valley appears at the matrix, and a large stress gradient exists in the contact area between the two (Fig. 6 and Fig. 7). This is mainly because under the longitudinal tensile load, the axial fiber bundle bears most of the load, and the warp and weft yarns also bear part of the load, while the matrix basically does not bear the load effect, the warp and weft yarns improve the longitudinal bearing capacity of the material, so that the structure bears the load more uniformly. There are obvious stress concentrations in the mutual twist zone and the contact zone between the yarns and the matrix, which may lead to local deformation and crack expansion, and then cause material failure. Conclusion The effect law of braiding angle on the equivalent engineering constant derived in this study is consistent with the law derived by experimental methods in the documents, the accuracy of the finite element model developed in this paper is verified. Based on this finite element model, the stress distribution of the two-dimensional triaxially braided composite RVE was predicted. The overall stress distribution is not uniform, and the stress of the yarn is significantly higher than the stress of the matrix. There are obvious stress concentrations in the yarn mutual kink area and the contact area between the yarn and the matrix, which may lead to the occurrence of local deformation and crack expansion, and then cause the material failure. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Preparation and inkjet printing smoothness of monodisperse polystyrene and poly (styrene-co-styrene sulfonate) latex particles SU Jing, GUAN Yu, FU Shaohai Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 13-20.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221205201 Abstract （153）   HTML （28）    PDF （13072KB）（157）       Knowledge map    Save Objective The smoothness of digital inkjet printing depends on the pigment ink's particle size, but at the moment, research on the relationship between particle size and flow primarily focuses on the suspension system of large particles, and the choice of pigment ink particle size is largely determined by engineering expertise. Consequently, it is crucial to develop a realistic particle size range appropriate for inkjet. However, most convenitional pigments are prepared by grinding or other physical methods, and their size and morphology distribution is relatively random, making quantitative research impossible. Method As a new polymer, latex particle size is easy to control and the performance is stable, making it a suitable choice for the study of particle size and inkjet fluidity. Monodisperse spherical polystyrene (PSt) and poly(styrene-co-styrene sulfonate) (P(St-co-SS)) latex particles of different sizes were prepared by mini-emulsion polymerization and soap-free emulsion polymerization, respectively, which were configured into PSt latex particle dispersions and P(St-co-SS) latex particle dispersions. The relationships among latex particle size, storage stability and inkjet fluidity of the dispersions were investigated. Results In this research, monodisperse spherical PSt and P(St-co-SS) latex particles with controllable particle size of 50-250 nm were successfully prepared by changing the addition of potassium persulfate (KPS), sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) and sodium p-styrene sulfonate (SS) in the reaction components. The prepared latex particles were uniform in size and had a spherical structure (Fig.2). The results of storage stability tests suggested the temperature range of 4-50 ℃ for PSt latex particle dispersion and P(St-co-SS) latex particle dispersion, respectively (Fig.4). It was seen that the storage stability of both PSt and P(St-co-SS) latex particle dispersions was higher than 96% in this temperature range, and that the smaller the particle size of latex particles, the better the storage stability of the dispersions. Subsequently, the dispersion was filtered using a filter membrane with an absolute pore size of 1 μm, and the results of the filtration rate reals that the filtration flow rate of the dispersion became higher as the particle porosity ratio decreased (Fig.5). When the particle porosity of the PSt and P(St-co-SS) systems was smaller than 8.5% and 9.5%, respectively, the filtration flow rate of the dispersion appeared to be higher than 2 mL/s. DFT simulation was carried out using the finite element analysis method. The results from the simulations showed that the increase of the particle porosity ratio led to the decrease of the actual dispersion flow radius (Fig.6), which eventually resulted in blockage of the filter membrane pores. Direct grafting of sulfonic acid groups on the particle surface provided more effective mutual repulsion between particles than adding dispersant, thus better hindering the agglomeration and sinking of particles in high-speed flow and increasing the flow of the dispersion (Fig.7). Conclusion In the case of particles dispersed by dispersant alone at a solid content of 8.5%, the dispersion is essentially unable to flow when the particle porosity ratio exceeds 10%, while P(St-co-SS) latex particle has a fixed sulfonic acid group on its surface, that the particle porosity ratio threshold can rise to about 9.5%. Meanwhile, grafting or modifying the surface of the particles with hydrophilic functional groups enables better cold or hot storage stability of the particles as opposed to adding surfactants to the dispersion. Therefore, an appropriate reduction in solid particle size together with an increase in the number of particles with hydrophilic functional groups can improve the dispersion storage and the inkjet printing smoothness. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Fabrication and properties of optical fiber sensing fabrics for respiratory monitoring ZHANG Meiling, ZHAO Meiling, ZHANG Cheng, LI Zhihui, SUN Zheng, ZHAO Xiaoxue, MIAO Changyun, WANG Rui, WANG Zhan'gang Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 102-111.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220102101 Abstract （151）   HTML （20）    PDF （6264KB）（88）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Respiration offers useful information for diagnosis and treatment of respiratory diseases, such as anesthetic sensitivity, sudden infant death syndrome, and obstructive sleep apnea syndrome. In this research, an optical fiber fabric for respiratory monitoring was designed based on the side luminous and photosensitive mechanism of the optical fibers for convenient, real-time and effective monitoring of respiration. Method The 500 μm-diameter optical fibers were woven into the fabric as warp yarns, and laser marking was performed at the designated positions of the optical fibers to form luminous and photosensitive structures. Displacement in the optical fibers took place due to respiratory movement and the light intensity of photosensitive optical fiber was correspondingly altered, monitering the human respiratory state. The influences of optical fibers marking distance, weft elasticity, optical fibers spacing and optical fibers number on optical fiber respiratory sensing were studied. Results The effect of photocurrent signal fluctuation was more obvious when the optical fiber marking distance was 1 cm under the same stretching distance (Fig.4(a)). Under the same conditions, the elastic recovery rate decreated from polyester/spandex yarns, nylon-spandex core-spun yarns, high elastic nylon yarns to high elastic polyester yarns, with the elastic recovery rate of polyester/spandex yarns as the highest. When the fabrics were tensile loaded to make the same extension, the light intensity loss (γ) demonstrated an increase in the elastic recovery rate of weft yarns. For optical fiber respiratory sensing fabrics of different elasticities, the spacing between optical fibers for high elastic fabric changed obviously with the same fabric stretching distance, resulting in the largest light intensity attenuation. The nylon-spandex core-spun weft yarn with the highest elastic recovery rate was selected for further study, and its elastic recovery rate was 70%, which facilitated the tensile deformation of the fabric and obained preferable test results.Nylon-spandex core-spun weft yarn with 70% elastic recovery rate was selected for further study. With the increase of optical fiber spacing, the intensity loss increased and then decreased, and the optical fiber spacing of 4 warp yarns was adopted (Fig.4(c)). The intensity loss of fabrics with even optical fibers was lower than that with odd optical fibers (Fig.4(d)). In the former case the light intensity loss (γ) tended to increase with the increase of the number of optical fibers, and in the latter the situation was opposite. The light intensity loss (γ) of 5 optical fibers was as high as 38.61% with a stretch of 2 cm, and the effect was excellent. In summary, optical fiber respiratory sensing fabric was woven with 3 luminous fibers and 2 photosensitive fibers in intervals as warp yarns. The optical fiber spacing adopted 4 warp yarns. The weft yarns employed polyester-spandex core-spun with a high 70% elastic recovery rate, with the fabric warp density of 300 ends/(10 cm). The 4 cm fabric width and 1 cm optical fiber floating was employed with satin weave. The breathing amplitude in the standing was smaller compared to that of the sitting and walking states for the same position, because the human standing caused less body cavity undulation, and the optical fiber spacing change was less obvious (Fig.5). Conclusion The result shows that the light intensity loss of the optimized sensing fabrics is improved from 13.14% to 38.61%. Hence, it can be concluded that the such made sensing fabrics can monitor the calm respiratory signals in sitting, standing and walking below the sternum of body, and the accuracy of the sensing fabric is high with the error range within 1.2 r/min, which is comparable to the performance of a mask respiratory monitor. The optical fiber respiratory sensing fabrics offer high sensitivity good comfort and can be achieved using the conventional technology, showing potentials for industrialization. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Classification and identification of foreign fibers based on near-infrared spectroscopy and ResNet LI Xueliang, DU Yuhong, REN Weijia, ZUO Hengli Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 84-92.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211200801 Abstract （151）   HTML （15）    PDF （6034KB）（53）       Knowledge map    Save Objective It has been shown that image processing methods can not clearly acquire image characteristics of foreign fibers in cotton layers. In order to solve the problem associated to conventional image processing methods, this paper proposed a classification and identification method for foreign fibers in cotton layers based on near-infrared (NIR) spectroscopy and residual neural networks (ResNet). Method In this study, 500 groups of foreign fibers spectral data were collected by experiments, including five types of foreign fibers. The spectral collection instrument was a UH4150 spectrophotometer. Savitzky-Golay method was adopted to smooth the spectral data, and F-test and LightGBM classification algorithm was adopted to determine the optimal feature wavelength. The optimal spectral data were converted into Garmian angular summation fields (GASF) images by the Garmian angular field (GAF) method, which preserved the temporal sequences between wavelength sequences. Eventually, the ResNet model was constructed. The GASF images were used as training samples to train the ResNet model. Results The foreign fibers' spectral data was smoother than the original spectrum by the Savitzky-Golay method. Noisy data at both ends of the spectrum and near the peaks of functional groups were eliminated (Fig.2). After F-test and LightGBM classification algorithm wavelength optimization, 75 optimal wavelengths were selected. When the number of wavelengths was greater than 200, important information was deleted from the foreign fibers' spectral data (Fig.3(a)). When the number of wavelengths was 75, the optimal performance of the optimized model was the best, and the accuracy reached 98.99% (Fig.3(b)). The accuracy of applying the GASF image to the ResNet model is 99.69%(Fig.7(a)). The loss of the training set showed a sharp drop for the first 50 iterations (Figs.7 (b) and (c)). When the number of iterations reached 70, the training set started to converge. When the number of epochs reached 200, the training set tended to be stable. The classification accuracy of gray-scale and time-frequency images was lower than 99.00%, lower than the recognition accuracy of GASF images(Fig.8). The ResNet model improved classification performance compared with machine learning classification models. Compared with the K-nearest-neighbor (KNN) and decision tree (DT), accuracy increased by 6.67% and 7.60%, and recall increased by 6.91% and 7.09%. Compared with the artificial neural network's multi-layer perceptron (MLP), the accuracy and recall increased by 1.22% and 1.36%, respectively. All the classification performances of rope and feather on the ResNet model reached 100%, indicating excellent classification of these two types of foreign fibers. There were no false positives or missed inspections. Only two misjudged cases were found in 640 foreign fibers samples in the test set, the first being the chemical fibers were wrongly judged as PP yarn. Second, the chemical fiber was wrongly identified as plastic bag. Conclusion The classification and identification model based on GASF and ResNet improved the feature extraction performance of foreign fibers' near infra-red spectra data. This method can effectively identify the foreign fibers in the cotton layer under a complex environment, with a identification accuracy of 99.69%. The classification and identification method of foreign fibers based on spectra combined with the convolution neural network (CNN) provides new research ideas for classifying foreign fibers in a complex environment. In addition, the method provides technical support for developing the sorting device of foreign fibers. Future research will be further extended to cotton quality evaluation fields, such as content detection of foreign fibers. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Laminated design and water quick-drying performance of biomimetic bamboo-tube fibrous humidifying materials ZHAI Qian, ZHANG Heng, ZHAO Ke, ZHU Wenhui, ZHEN Qi, CUI Jingqiang Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (02): 1-10.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230704801 Abstract （150）   HTML （17）    PDF （11254KB）（85）       Knowledge map    Save Objective The dry indoor environment causes non-negligible impact on human health. The permeable evaporative humidifier with humidifying core as liquid guiding tunnel showed some positive effect on the indoor humidity management. This paper reports research on a type of humidifier material made following the bionic bamboo structure, and discusses the influence of the design of this material on the sample water conduction and fast drying performance, aiming for improvement of environmental protection by presenting an efficient humidifier inner core. Method In this study, PLA micro-nano fiber fabric was prepared by hydrophilic modification of PLA with sodium secondary alkyl sulfonate (SAS) as the main raw material. Viscose fiber was prepared into viscose fiber layer (CEL) by carding process, and the hot-rolled PLA/CEL nonwoven composite was wound to obtain the fiber wiener humidification material. The samples were characterized by Fourier infrared spectrometer(FT-IR) and scanning electron microscope. In addition, liquid contact angle measuring instrument, drying rate tester, electronic fabric strength tester and self-built instrument were used to study the water conduction fast drying characteristics and physical and mechanical properties of the samples. Results In terms of micro-morphology, the biomimetic bamboo-tube fibrous humidification material has a continuous or quasi-continuous layered micropore distribution structure parallel to the length direction, providing power for the directional transmission of liquid, wherein the biomimetic bamboo-tube fibrous laminated structure is loose inside and tight outside to provide the basis for the high-speed transmission of liquid. The increase of wind pressure reduced the fiber diameter distribution and pore size distribution in the sample, leading to a high-quality porous structure for efficient liquid transport. FT-IR test showed that the infrared spectra of C—O—C vibration absorption (1 181 cm-1) and C—O tensile (1 081 cm-1) peaks were enhanced after SAS addition, and the liquid contact angle of the sample surface was significantly changed, indicating that SAS successfully improved the hydrophilicity of PLA micro-nano fiber fabric. On the other hand, appropriate changes of melt blowing air pressure and sample density change had a certain optimization effect on the water conduction and quick drying characteristics of the fibrous humidifying materials. The experimental results showed that when the melt-blowing air pressure was 36 kPa and the simple density was 1.1 g/cm3, the liquid absorption rate and drying rate of the sample were the best, which were 112.4 mg/s and 1.03 mL/h, respectively. Compared with the sample density of 1.8 g/cm3, the liquid absorption rate and drying rate are increased by 55.2% and 51.5%. At this time, the tensile breaking strength of the sample reached 255.2 N, and the breaking strength decreased by 10.8% compared with that of the crimp density of 1.8 g/cm3. When the air pressure increased from 24 kPa to 40 kPa, the liquid absorption rate increased from 80.1 mg/s to 108.4 mg/s, representing a 26.1% increases. Drying rate increased by 21.1% from 0.57 mL/h to 0.69 mL/h, and the tensile breaking strength increased by 32.1% from 262.2 N to 346.4 N. The bionic bamboo structure is conductive to the improvement of the water conduction and fast drying performance of the fiber wiener humidification material, which can meet the application requirements of the humidifier. Conclusion The humidifying material with biomimetic bamboo-tube joint structure prepared by lamination design has a wide development prospect in the field of water conduction and rapid drying. Among them, polylactic acid, as a bio-based material, has excellent antibacterial and mildew resistance properties, which is in line with the concept of green environmental protection development. Moreover, by changing the porous structure and lamination process of the fiber humidifier material, the water-conducting and quick-drying ability of the sample is further regulated, which provides references and examples for the structural design and green preparation of the high-performance fiber humidifier core. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (06): 235-235.   Abstract （149）      PDF （52781KB）（32）       Knowledge map    Save Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Preparation and properties of colorimetric sensing nanofiber membrane with wound monitoring function DU Xun, CHEN Li, HE Jin, LI Xiaona, ZHAO Meiqi Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 70-76.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211111601 Abstract （148）   HTML （22）    PDF （7051KB）（102）       Knowledge map    Save Objective The nanofiber membrane structure with high specific surface area and high porosity can be applied in the detection field in response to external stimuli. Recently, the preparation of colorimetric sensors with nanofiber membrane as a carrier has attracted increasing attention. In order to develop nanofiber materials for monitoring wound infection, a colorimetric sensing nanofiber membrane for wound monitoring was prepared from chitosan/fish gum protein as raw material and plant dye hematoxylin as indicator by electrospinning technology. Method Colorimetric sensing nanofiber membrane was prepared by electrospinning technology after the spinning solution containing hematoxylin was well mixed by the original solution coloring method with optimized parameters of electrospinning. Scanning electron microscope, differential scanning calorimetry and X-ray diffraction (XRD) were dopted to characterize the microscopic morphology of the nanometer fiber membrane and analysis, and the color change situation under different pH values was also studied. In addition, the hydrophilicity of the nanofiber membrane was proved by the hydrophobic angle test. Results In the prepared nanofiber membrane without beading, the fibers with an average diameter of 346.1 nm were found thin and straight when the mass ratio of chitosan (CS) to collagen (Col) is 1:1 (Fig.1). When the voltage was set to 12 kV, the propulsion speed was 1.5 mL/L, and the receiving distance was 20 cm, the fibers without adhesion phenomenon showed straight and smooth, in which the average fiber diameter was about 264 nm, and the diameter CV value was 14.51% (Tab.2 and Fig.3). Based on the optimal parameters of electrospinning, the colorimetric sensing nanofiber membrane was prepared with hematoxylin (Fig.4). The thickness of the nanofiber membrane was 0.01 mm, in which the average diameter of the fiber was 246.2 nm. The colorimetric sensing nanofiber membrane had a peak of 93.8 ℃, which is lower than CS and Col (Fig.5). This believed to be precise because the melting temperature of polyethylene oxide (PEO) in the nanofiber membrane is lower than that of CS and Col. Therefore, the introduction of PEO reduced the melting temperature of the nanofiber membrane, indicating that the three materials successfully integrated into the nanofiber membrane. Furthermore, the stucture test results showed that the nanofiber membrane reveals a peak near 10°, meanwhile, the peak strength is lower than that of chitosan and collagen (Fig.6). It may be because CS and Col were successfully mixed, which destroys the helical structure of collagen and affects the crystal structure of nanofiber membrane. The contact angle test results showed that the contact angle of the prepared nanofiber membrane changed from 80° to 46° within 4 s, which showed good hydrophilicity and suitability for medical applications (Fig.7). Most importantly, the color changes of colorimetric sensing nanofiber membranes at different pH values (Fig.8). With the increase of pH value, colorimetric sensing nanofiber membranes exhibited different colors. When pH value increased from 5 to 7, the color change was more obvious, the fiber membrane changed from yellow to purple, the color difference from 0 to 10.59, and the color change of nanofiber membrane could be observed by naked eye, which was in line with the need of wound monitoring. Conclusion When the mass ratio of the CS to Col of 1:1, the spinning voltage is 12 kV, the pushing speed is 1.5 mL/h, and the receiving distance is 20 cm, the nanofiber membrane obtained possess good hydrophilicity. The average fiber diameter is 246.2 nm, and the diameter CV value is 29.54%. More importantly, the color of the colorimetric sensing nanofiber membrane changes from yellow to purple, when the pH value changes from 5 to 7. Moreover, the color change range of the nanofiber membrane is consistent with the pH value of the exudate when the skin is inflamed, which meets the requirements of wound monitoring. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Full forming process design for three-dimensional knitted products LI Yuxian, CONG Honglian, WU Guangjun Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 132-138.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211202601 Abstract （145）   HTML （12）    PDF （4373KB）（91）       Knowledge map    Save Objective From the manufacturing of single component to one-piece products, the full forming computerized flat knitting machines are now capable of rapidly producing knitted products. However, the structure of knitted three-dimensional products is complex, and the forming process needs to be further improved. On the basis of the existing process design methods, the full forming process design of knitted three-dimensional products with more complex structure was carried out, and the process algorithm in the forming process was discussed, so as to facilitate the full formation of three-dimensional knitted fabrics. Method According to different appearance contours, three-dimensional knitted products was classified and the cylindrical structure, cubic structure and spherical structure were analyzed based on the full forming process, before selecting truncated cone, frustum of a pyramid and sphere with general characteristics for algorithm model construction. After transforming into the full forming paper pattern, the mathematical relationship between the number of knitting rows, the number of narrowing and widening needles and the inclination angle was explored. Finally, the curved lamp shade was knitted on the four-needle-bed flat knitting machine to verify the feasibility. Results From the perspective of appearance and contour modeling, knitted three-dimensional products can be divided into cylinder structure, cubic structure, spherical structure and special-shaped structure, which were utilized to produce clothing, bags, lighting, seats and other categories of knitted products. The truncated cone obtained a full forming paper pattern by cutting and expanding, and a trigonometric function relationship was formed between the number of knitting rows, the number of narrowing and widening needles and the inclination angle, and hence the trigonometric transformation method was proposed. The side shape of the truncated cone was achieved by entering the number of knitting rows and the number of narrowing and widening needles (Fig.6). The frustum of a pyramid was converted into a two-dimensional paper pattern after flattening along the diagonal line of the bottom face, and the upper and lower cover surfaces were converted into parallelograms corresponding to the sides, so as to propose a parallelogram transformation method to simplify the connection process between the sides and the upper and lower bottom surfaces. Similarly, there was a trigonometric relationship between the number of knitting rows, the number of hanging needles and the tilt angle, and the three-dimensional shape was achieved with the help of parallelogram transformation method and triangular transformation method (Fig.8). The sphere was cut and stretched to obtain the full forming paper pattern, and the arc profile was converted into several successively connected moment blocks, so as to propose the inverse fitting method. The edge moment block was adopted to create the arc shape (Fig.10). The example of the arc lamp shade was knitted with obvious arc contour of the lamp shade using the reverse fitting method, and the size parameters met the design requirements (Fig.14). Conclusion In the transformation process form a three-dimensional structure to the two-dimensional paper pattern and then to the full forming paper pattern, a corresponding mathematical transformation relationship was established, based on which triangular conversion method is adopted to construct the edge straight contour for the cylindrical products, the parallelogram transformation method is employed to facilitate the three-dimensional structure of the upper and lower cover surfaces for the cube products, and the inverse fitting method is applied to achieve arc appearance modeling for the spherical configurations. The knitted three-dimensional products after structural transformation are knitted on the computerized flat knitting machine, forming one-piece fabrics by the transformation of the full forming process, supported by the process models and algorithms. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Synthesis and fiber fabrication of fully biobased polytrimethylene furandicarboxylate HE Shuang, SUN Li'na, HU Hongmei, ZHU Ruishu, YU Jianyong, WANG Xueli Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 63-69.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211200501 Abstract （144）   HTML （13）    PDF （2685KB）（152）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Polyester industry is an important industry relating to the national economy and the people's livelihood. Most polyesters are prepared from petroleum and other fossil resources as raw materials. The combustion process of polyester will produce a large amount of carbon dioxide and sulfur dioxide, which not only pollute the environment, but also lead to global warming, climate change and other serious problems. In order to further implement the sustainable development and the promote China's ″double carbon″ strategic goal, it is urgent to minimise the dependence on fossil energy. In 2004, the US Department of Energy released 12 platform compounds derived from biomass that can be converted into high value-added biobased materials. Among them, the chemical structure of 2,5-furanedicarboxylic acid (FDCA) is similar to petroleum based terephthalic acid (PTA), which can be used as an ideal biobased substitute for PTA. With the maturity of the synthesis and purification technology of FDCA, furan based polyester has attracted attention in various fields, becoming a key research direction of biobased high molecular materials. This research focus is on the study of furan based homopolymers and copolymers. Method In this research, the use conditions of zinc acetate tetrabutyl titanate composite catalyst were optimized using 1,3-PDO and DMFD as raw materials. The full biological PTF with high molecular weight was synthesized by transesterification melt polycondensation. The chemical structure and thermal properties of the PTF were characterized by infrared spectroscopy, nuclear magnetic resonance hydrogen spectroscopy, differential scanning calorimetry and thermogravimetry, the biobased PTF fibers were prepared by two-step spinning process(UDY-DT), and the influences of different drafting ratios on the mechanical properties of the fibers were studied. Results In the process of adjusting the reaction process, it was found that only zinc acetate was added in the esterification stage, and tetrabutyl titanate was added in the polycondensation stage. The alcohol ester ratio was increased to 2.6, which would synchronously reduce the transesterification reaction time (Tab. 1). The analysis of the chemical structure of the product showed that the target product PTF (Figs.3 and 4) was successfully synthesized, and the number average molecular weight of the prepared product reached 3.25 × 104 g/mol, the PDI was controlled below 3 (Tab. 4), and the chip color was light yellow. It is believed that the optimal use conditions of the combined catalyst were found. The glass transition temperature of the synthesized product was 60-62 ℃, the melting point was about 171 ℃, and the initial thermal decomposition temperature was higher than 370 ℃ (Tab.5). With the primary fiber drawn to 2.5 times, the elongation at break of PTF fiber was about 34.2%, and the breaking strength was 0.48 cN/dtex (Tab. 6). Conclusion The whole biological PTF fiber was successfully prepared by UDY-DT two-step method. After 2.5 times of drafting, the elongation at break of the fiber was 34%, and the breaking strength was 0.48 cN/dtex. Owing to wide molecular weight distribution of PTF, relatively low breaking strength of prepared PEF fiber, and yellow color of polymer and fiber, further optimization and improvement of synthesis and spinning process are required in future research work. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Preparation and characterization of phase change fibers of bimetal ion crosslinked alginate composites DI Chunqiu, GUO Jing, GUAN Fucheng, XIANG Yulong, SHAN Jicheng Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 54-62.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211204701 Abstract （135）   HTML （15）    PDF （7245KB）（96）       Knowledge map    Save Objective In order to prepare multifunctional alginate composite fibers, Zn2+- Ca2+, Cu2+- Ca2+, Sr2+- Ca2+ bimetal ion crosslinked alginate composite phase change fibers were prepared from sodium alginate (SA), silk fibroin (SF), lauric acid palmitic acid binary eutectic mixture (LA-PA) by wet spinning technology. Method The influence of bimetal ion crosslinking system on hydrogen bonding of composite phase change fibers was studied by infrared spectroscopy and Gaussian fitting, and the influences of different bimetal ion crosslinking systems on the structure, mechanical properties, thermal stability, thermal properties, water resistance and bacteriostasis of composite phase change fibers were investigated by scanning electron microscope, thermogravimetric analysis, differential scanning calorimetry. Results The type of double ions was found to have a great influence on the molecular action. In comparison to the single Ca2+ion crosslinking system, the content increase of intramolecular hydrogen bonds in the bimetal ion crosslinking system resulted in content decrease of intermolecular hydrogen bonds, while the content of free hydroxyl groups hardly changed (Fig.2 and Tab.1). In fibers β-the content of folded chains is an important factor affecting the mechanical properties of fibers, and the breaking strength of fibers varies with β-the content of the folded chain structure increases as it increases (Tab.2, Tab.4). Owing to the wet spinning forming mechanism, there are grooves along the fiber axis on the fiber surface. The Zn2+- Ca2+, Sr2+- Ca2+, Cu2+- Ca2+crosslinked composite phase change fiber showed denser grooves than the single Ca2+ crosslinked composite fiber. Metal ions participated in the forming process of the composite phase change fiber (Fig.3 and Tab.2). The thermal stability of Cu2+- Ca2+ion crosslinked composite phase change fiber was found lower than that of the other three composite phase change fibers (Fig.4). The maximum crystallization temperature and melting temperatures of the fibers are 26.19 and 36.71 ℃, respectively, and the maximum phase transition enthalpy is 25.95 J/g; The phase change enthalpy of Ca2+, Zn2+-Ca2+, Sr2+-Ca2+composite phase change fibers is 24-26 J/g, with a small difference, the phase change enthalpy of Cu2+-Ca2+composite phase change fibers is relatively small, ranging from 17 to 18 J/g (Fig.5, Tab.5). After 50 thermal cycles, the crystallization enthaly and melting enthalpy of the composite phase change fiber decreased by 0.15 and 0.50 J/g, respectively, and the crystallization and melting temperatures changed by 0.78 and 0.40 ℃, respectively (Fig.6, Tab.6). Zn2+-Ca2+composite phase change fibers have the highest swelling rate, followed by Ca2+, Sr2+-Ca2+composite phase change fibers, and Cu2+-Ca2+composite phase change fibers have the lowest swelling rate, which is mainly determined by the content of metal ions in the fibers (Fig.7, Tab.2). Owing to the large amount of Zn2+and Cu2+inside the fiber, which can extensively interact with the bacterial cell wall and lead to lysis or inactivation of proteins in the bacteria, thereby killing the bacteria. Therefore, there is no obvious inhibition circle around the Sr2+-Ca2+and Ca2+composite phase change fibers, while there is an obvious inhibition circle around the Cu2+-Ca2+and Zn2+-Ca2+composite phase change fibers(Fig.8). Conclusion The type of bimetal ions has a great influence on the molecular interaction, and the combined effect of the metal ion radius and the metal ion content causes the change of hydrogen bond interaction of different bimetallic ion crosslinking systems. The proper bimetal ion crosslinking system is helpful to improve the mechanical properties of the composite phase change fiber β-the content of folded chain is an important factor affecting the mechanical properties of fibers. The bimetal ion crosslinked composite phase change fiber has a phase change temperature of 21-37 ℃ suitable for human body and a high phase change enthalpy of 17-26 J/g, which has broad application prospects in clothing and other fields. The phase change temperature and enthalpy of the composite phase change fiber before and after 50 thermal cycles have little difference, and the bimetal ion crosslinked composite phase change fiber has good heat storage durability. The water resistance of Cu2+- Ca2+composite phase change fiber is obviously superior to the other three composite phase change fibers. Cu2+- Ca2+and Zn2+- Ca2+composite phase-change fibers have good antibacterial properties against these two types of bacteria. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Influencing factors for thermal insulating properties of cotton gauze quilts ZHANG Luyang, SONG Haibo, MENG Jing, YIN Lanjun, LU Yehu Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (07): 79-85.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220606401 Abstract （135）   HTML （13）    PDF （2106KB）（222）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Studies on thermal insulating properties of quilts have been carried out aiming to improve the thermal comfort and sleep quality. Previous studies mainly focused on quilts with filling materials, and few research focused on non-filling quilts such as gauze quilt. In order to provide more understanding on comfortable sleeping microclimate, a systematic investigation on thermal insulating properties of several gauze quilts with different parameters was conducted. Method 41 samples in total were provided, including 22 unwashed cotton gauze quilt fabric samples, 4 washed cotton gauze quilt fabric samples, 3 spunlaced cotton wadding samples, 6 cotton gauze quilt samples. The influences of air permeability, surface density and number of layers on heat resistance of cotton gauze quilts were analyzed by sweating hot plate tests and thermal manikin tests. The correlation between heat resistance of fabric and quilt was also established. Results It was found that the heat resistance of both cotton gauze quilt samples and cotton spunlaced wadding samples have significant positive linear relationships with surface density. The heat resistance rose with the increase of surface density. The growth rate of the spunlaced cotton wadding quilts (0.006 1) was higher than that of cotton gauze quilts (0.001 7). Heat resistance of cotton gauze quilt samples decreased with the increasing of air permeability, exhibiting a low correlation, but the influence on thermal insulation was obvious when the air permeability was below 1 000 mm/s. The heat resistance of the spunlaced cotton wadding quilt showed a significant negative linear relationship with its air permeability. In addition, the air permeability and surface density presented an exponentially negative correlation. The change rate was constantly decreasing when surface density was more than 450 g/m2. Generally, the air permeability of each cotton gauze quilt was above 500 mm/s, higher than that of the spunlaced cotton wadding quilt. The surface fitting results (thermal insulation as dependent variable, air permeability and surface density as independent variables) revealed that heat resistance and air permeability exhibited a low correlation. The surface density demonstrated a significant influence on heat resistance, and the heat resistance of cotton gauze quilt exhibited a positive linear relationship with the number of cotton gauze fabric layers. The air permeability of cotton gauze quilt showed power function relationship with the number of fabric layers. The heat resistance of cotton gauze quilt was increased after washing, with the average increase of about 20%. After once machine washing in 20 ℃ water, the thickness and surface density of cotton gauze quilt was increased by 26.6% and 13.6% in average, respectively, whereas the air permeability was decreases by 8.7% in average. A significant non-linear relationship exists between the heat resistance of fabric samples and quilt samples (p<0.05), which can be approximately expressed by an exponential function. In particular, they show approximate a linear relationship when the heat resistance of fabric was less than 1.8 clo. Conclusion The heat resistance of the cotton gauze quilts has a significant positive linear relationship with the surface density, exhibiting a negative and low correlated relationship with the air permeability. Therefore, surface density is more appropriate for the prediction of heat resistance value in engineering application. Under the same surface density, spunlaced cotton wadding quilt provides higher thermal insulating properties, while cotton gauze quilt provides bigger air permeability. The superimposition of cotton gauze fabric layers can produce thicker air gaps, resulting in higher thermal insulating property of cotton gauze quilt. Once machine washing has a positive effect on thermal insulating property of cotton gauze quilt by virtue of the increase of thickness and surface density after washing. Moreover, heat resistance of fabric samples can be adopted to predict the heat resistance of quilt, showing a significant non-linear correlation. These research findings can provide evidence for the design of cotton gauze quilts and usage guideline to achieve thermal comfort during sleeping. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Preparation and properties of adsorption fiber made from cotton stalk bark microcrystalline cellulose/modified chitosan SHAO Yanzheng, SUN Jianghao, WEI Chunyan, LÜ Lihua Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (08): 18-25.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211201601 Abstract （134）   HTML （22）    PDF （7251KB）（82）       Knowledge map    Save Objective The pollution of dye wastewater to the environment seriously harms people's health and is also an important factor restricting the development of textile enterprises. The adsorption method is a promising one for dye wastewater treatment. Natural polymeric cellulose and chitosan are widely used as adsorption materials for wastewater treatment because of the advantages in large capacity for storage, good adsorption, non-toxicity and easy degradation. In this research, an cotton stalk microcrystalline cellulose/chitosan(MCC/CS) adsorption fiber was prepared for the adsorption of Congo Red. Method Firstly, modified chitosan (DCS) was prepared by surface modification to CS with formaldehyde as crosslinking agent and 2,5-disulfide diurea as modifier, to improve their adsorption of Congo Red. The modified chitosan process was optimized by the orthogonal test method. Urea solvent method was used to dissolve MCC at low temperature as spinning matrix, DCS was added as insoluble dispersion adsorption material, composite fiber was prepared by wet spinning and freeze-drying, and the spinning process was optimized by the single factor method. Finally, the chemical structure of DCS was analyzed, the morphology and dye adsorption properties of MCC/DCS adsorbed fibers were tested and characterized. Results The modification of CS was carried out successfully, where the new C=S characteristic absorption peaks at 1 209 cm-1appear and the absorption peak of -NH2 (2,5-dithiourea, DB) disappeared at 1 640 cm-1 in DCS infrared spectrum. The combination of conditions obtained by orthogonal test for preparation of DCS was optimized, where acetic acid dosage was 55 mL, DB dosage was 0.60 g, CS dosage was 1.0 g, and formaldehyde dosage was 8 mL. The modified chitosan increased the contents of N and S elements, and the changes were obvious. The pore size of the MCC/DCS was larger than the MCC adsorbent fibers, and the modification CS was more beneficial to the adsorption of Congo Red by adsorbent fibers. The fracture strength of MCC/DCS adsorption fiber decreased gradually with the increase of the amount of DCS in the fiber, while the linear density increased gradually because DCS is insoluble in alkaline solution. With the addition of DCS, the viscosity of the spinning solution decreased gradually. When the concentration of dye solution was 60 mg/L, the adsorption capacity of unmodified CS for Congo Red was 13.85 mg/g, and the DCS under optimal conditions was 17.63 mg/g, the adsorption capacity of DCS was increased by 27.29% compared with CS. At the same dye solution concentration, the adsorption capacity of MCC/DCS fiber was 49.55 mg/g, which was 47.82% higher than that of MCC/CS fiber 33.52 mg/g. The analysis of the influencing factors of adsorption performance showed that the adsorption capacity of MCC/DCS adsorption fiber for Congo Red decreased gradually with the increase of adsorption temperature. The adsorption capacity was increased with the adsorption time of MCC/DCS fiber and the change of the initial concentration of dye solution, and the adsorption equilibrium was reached when the concentration of dye solution was 250 mg/L. Ho kinetic model was suitable to simulate the adsorption process of DCS adsorption fibers. The adsorption thermodynamic analysis showed that the Langmuir model was suitable to simulate the adsorption process of DCS adsorbed fibers. Conclusion CS was successfully modified with formaldehyde as crosslinking agent and 2, 5-dithiourea as modifier. The modification process of CS was optimized by orthogonal test, and the optimum process was obtained. The MCC was dissolved by urea dissolution system at low temperature as a spinning matrix, coated with DCS powder prepared by the optimized process. Adsorption experiment test results are as follows: when the concentration of dye solution was 60 mg/L, the average removal rate of MCC/DCS fiber Congo Red was 82.58%, and the average removal rate of MCC/CS fiber for Congo Red was 55.87%. The removal rate of MCC/DCS fiber was 47.82% higher than that of MCC/CS fiber, and the expected effect was achieved. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Research on supercritical CO2 waterless dyeing property of polyester knitted shoe materials SONG Jie, CAI Tao, ZHENG Fuer, ZHENG Huanda, ZHENG Laijiu Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 46-53.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221106501 Abstract （133）   HTML （17）    PDF （3058KB）（213）       Knowledge map    Save Objective Knitted sports shoe materials have the advantages of structural integration, light weight, comfort and low cost, which attractes wide attention from the industry and consumers in recent years. However, with the increasingly prominent environmental pollution caused by conventional aqueous dyeing, how to achieve the eco-friendly dyeing of sports shoe materials has become the key development direction. Method In order to solve the problems of serious dyeing pollution and high energy consumption in the conventional dyeing, waterless dyeing of polyester knitted shoe materials was conducted with Disperse Yellow 54 using supercritical CO2 as medium. Influences of dyeing temperature, pressure, time and CO2 flow on the K/S values and levelling property were analyzed. The mechanical properties of polyester knitted shoe materials before and after dyeing were investigated, including bending, shrinkage, friction, tensile and durable properties. Results The results showed that supercritical CO2 displayed obvious influence on the dyeing properties of polyester knitted shoe materials. In supercritical CO2 dyeing system, the K/S values of the dyed polyester knitted shoe materials increased significantly with the rising of dyeing pressure, temperature and time. This is mainly because the increasing CO2 temperature and pressure present more and more plasticizing effect on polyester fiber. The dissolved dye molecules were more likely to approach the fiber interface, and would complete the adsorption through self-diffusion. Compared with aqueous dyeing, the dyeing process of polyester knitted shoe materials was able to completed with in 60 min in supercritical CO2 and the change of CO2 flow rate showed no significant influence on the K/S values. The deviation values of K/S data fluctuated around 0.1 at pressure ranging from 18 MPa to 26 MPa, temperature ranging from 105 ℃ to 125 ℃, time ranging from 20 min to 100 min as well as a CO2 flow from 380 kg/h to 460 kg/h, which represents good levelness. After supercritical CO2 dyeing, color fastness to rubbing and soaping of polyester shoe materials reached level 4 or above(Tab.1). The influence of CO2 temperature and pressure on the mechanical properties of shoe materials was different, and temperature had more significant influence on mechanical properties than pressure. When the CO2 temperature rose from 105 ℃ to 125 ℃, the bending rigidity increased from 9.90 mN·cm to 15.30 mN·cm(Fig.8), the maximum bending strength increased from 75.29 cN to 126.30 cN(Fig.8), the longitudinal shrinkage rate increased from 6.72% to 11.21%(Fig.9), the transverse shrinkage rate increased from 3.80% to 6.58%(Fig.9), the breaking strength increased from 1 048.23 N to 1 281.17 N(Fig.11), the elongation at break decreased from 42.05% to 36.6%(Fig.11), and the bursting strength increased from 2 235 N to 2 390 N(Fig.13). However, the test results revealed that the temperature and pressure played no remarkable influence on the tribological properties(Tab.2), and the static friction coefficient and dynamic friction coefficient of the polyester samples were almost constant. Conclusion By using supercritical CO2 instead of water as the medium, waterless dyeing of polyester knitted shoe materials can be achieved, and the deviation of K/S values is stable at 0.1±0.05. The optimal dyeing procedure was determined by balancing the dyeing effect and resource consumption. The dyed polyester knitted shoe materials with superior properties after supercritical CO2 dyeing indicate a favorable foreground. The above investigation provides an impurtant support for the clean industrial production of supercritical CO2 dyeing. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Application of Julia fractal set on design of Adras dress pattern XU Han, SHEN Lei, CHEN Han Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (06): 191-199.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220308901 Abstract （132）   HTML （13）    PDF （20348KB）（78）       Knowledge map    Save Objective The emerging culture of ethnic fashion has changed the consumption behaviour of modern people, and clothing products with a sense of fashion and ethnic are attracting attention from consumers. However, traditional design methods are unable to meet the high demand for the development of ethnic fashion patterns. In order to deal with the mismatch between the high demand for the development of ethnic fashion patterns and traditional design methods, a pattern innovation design method was proposed in this research, taking the Uyghur Adras pattern as an example. Method Through fieldwork and literature research, the historical and cultural connotations behind the Adras patterns were collected and classified. The first step was to refine the line drawings according to the different categories. The classic elements were dismantled and reorganised using shape grammar to obtain new pattern units. Following this, the K-means analysis method was used to create clusters and to extract colours, and to summarise the typical colours of the Adras. Finally, Julia fractal theory and computer algorithms are used to construct models to aid pattern creation. Results The Adras dresses are divided into skirts and dresses in terms of style. The patterns of the skirt and dress are categorised into two types of pattern composition, the "川" pattern and the "米" pattern. The "米" structure is centred on the collar or waist and spreads out around the plate, while the "川" pattern is arranged in a diagonal pattern along the longitudinal or diagonal direction (Fig. 8). The paper focuses on the composition of the "米" pattern in the skirt, combining it with the highly similar structure of the Julia fractal theory. The best symmetry order index ranges from 8 to 40. When the index is less than 8, it does not constitute a "米" structure yet. When the index is between 8 and 40, the complexity and exquisiteness of the pattern varies with the value. When the index is greater than 40, the details of the pattern decrease with the increase of the index (Fig. 10). A scientific and systematic pattern design system was proposed in this paper aiming to establish the Adras dress fractal pattern design model (Fig. 11). The model includes steps such as creating a new collection, adjusting the symmetry order index, substituting the formula, superimposing the algorithm, adding representative colours and patterns, and fractal rendering. The J-set model with symmetry order indices of 8, 22 and 40 was selected for further design in the new set. Exponential smoothing mappings, inverse mappings, Newton's formulae and superimposing various algorithms were substituted to obtain nine sub-models with completely different forms and effects. Adding Adras innovative pattern units and typical colours, the final rendering resulted in 9 sets of pattern designs. Conclusion In order to transform the qualitative evaluation into a quantitative one, a fuzzy comprehensive evaluation of the designed pattern was carried out using a five-level scale criterion in four dimensions, i.e. color features, elemental features, structural features and cultural connotations. The modeling of the Adras dress was also carried out on the Style 3D software platform to verify its feasibility. The results show that the design model of the Adras pattern based on Julia fractal theory has good practical application value and helps the inheritance, innovation and development of the Uyghur culture in the digital era. At the same time, it can also provide research ideas and methodological references for the inheritance and innovation of other ethnic patterns. The Adras dress pattern created by this method can combine both fashionable artistic characteristics and ethnic cultural heritage. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Embroidery style transfer modeling based on multi-scale texture synthesis YAO Linhan, ZHANG Ying, YAO Lan, ZHENG Xiaoping, WEI Wenda, LIU Chengxia Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (09): 84-90.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220504801 Abstract （132）   HTML （24）    PDF （20335KB）（107）       Knowledge map    Save Objective There are still many problems in the existing embroidery image generation algorithms, such as singular style of the generated image, rough features, and many artifacts. Aiming at this situation, embroidery style transfer modeling based on multi-scale texture synthesis is proposed. By improving the existing style transfer algorithm, embroidery-style images with higher perceptual quality are expected to be created. Method Multi-stylized loss function was adopted to extract the edge information and detailed structure of the content image and the style image, and the results were compared with the effect of the transfer image generated by only using the content loss and the style loss. Results Experiments presults showed that the multi-stylizd loss function could generate embroidery migration images with clear texture. Gatys' model was shown to have more artifacts and deformations in the conversion process of the image with dense lines, and Johnson's model also had artifacts and conversion errors in the conversion of feather details. Li and Wand's model lacks embroidery details such as stitching and texture variations (Fig. 6). The multi-scale texture synthesis embroidery style transfer model (MTE-NST) proposed in this research transfered the detailed structure of the style map well, which was closer to the real embroidery work, and was better than the first three models in terms of style and details. MTE-NST had the smallest MSE (the smallest style loss) and the smallest LPIPS (the highest image perceptual similarity), and the image quality and transfer effect were better. The test time and occupied memory were second only to Johnson, which are 0.58 s, 3 900 MB, respectively which are quite close, further verifying that MTE-NST can generate more realistic embroidery style image (Tab. 2). Conclusion This paper proposes a MTE-NST, which learns hierarchically the multi-scale embroidery art styles. MTE-NST can not only restore the style image color but also preserve the texture structure and fine details of the image edge, which solves the problem of texture conversion mismatch and can generate embroidery style transfer pictures with better visual effects. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Application of silk fibroin-based biomaterials for drug delivery LUO Yuanze, DAI Mengnan, LI Meng, YU Yangxiao, WANG Jiannan Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (09): 213-222.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220500202 Abstract （130）   HTML （16）    PDF （8898KB）（60）       Knowledge map    Save Significance With the increasing incidence of chronic noncommunicable diseases (e.g. cancer), inflammation and diabetes, drug delivery systems with controlled release are developed and applied in clinical practice. Silk fibroin was studied widely for applications in the fields of tissue engineering and medicine because of its good biocompatibility and biodegradability. The research on the application of silk fibroin as drug carriers attracted much global attention. In order to expand and promote the clinical applications of silk fibroin materials in pharmaceutical field, this paper reviews the latest research progress of silk fibroin in drug delivery systems, with highlights on carrier types, preparation methods, drug loading types and application properties of silk fibroin drug delivery systems. Progress As a controlled drug carrier, silk fibroin is an ideal candidate because of its unique chemical structure and aggregated structure, and its excellent biocompatibility and controllable degradation. Silk fibroin materials can be prepared into various forms, among which silk fibroin materials in the form of microspheres, hydrogels and microneedles exhibit efficient drug loading capacity and controllable release rate when used as drug carriers, resulting in the decrease of dosing frequency and improvement of the therapeutic efficiency. Silk fibroin-based drug delivery system not only can stably encapsulate various small molecule compounds, but also deliver biological macromolecules such as proteins and nucleic acids. Composite drug carriers developed by combining other materials can reduce the degradation of silk fibroin drug carriers in vivo and improve the drug availability. Furthermore, the alternating arrangement of hydrophilic and hydrophobic chains of the silk fibroin macromolecule provides a structure basis for regulating the molecular conformation and aggregation structure of silk fibroin materials. The crystal form and crystallinity of silk fibroin can be regulated by physical or chemical modification to control drug release or endow targeting ability to diseased cells, which can effectively improve the therapeutic efficiency of serious diseases and reduce the damage to normal tissue cells. Conclusion and Prospect With the continuous exploration of the biological function of silk fibroin, some progress in silk fibroin-based drug release materials has been made in association with drug delivery forms, targeted therapy and drug availability. Silk fibroin as a drug carrier has been found to prolong the circulation time of drugs in the blood, reduce the frequency of drug use and alleviate adverse drug reactions of patients. These advantages provide important guidance for in-depth and sustainable development of silk fibroin in drug delivery application. However, there are still problems in the stability of the preparation of silk fibroin drug carriers and their drug loading capacity. The quality of silk fibroin varies greatly due to the different sources, such as varieties, seasons and regions. It is necessary to standardize the characteristics and extraction method of silk fibroin. Although silk fibroin drug carriers can be endowed with the capability of targeted drug delivery by physical or chemical modification, it may be attacked by the immune system at the initial stage of entering the body, leading to failure of targeted release. The accuracy and effectiveness of silk fibroin used as drug carriers still need long-term exploration and clinical trials. With the development of material science, chemical science and pharmacy, the research and application of silk fibroin-based drug delivery systems will be further continued. Table and Figures | Reference | Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）

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Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (09): 251-251.   Abstract （130）      PDF （17411KB）（174）       Knowledge map    Save Related Articles | Metrics | Comments（0）