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    Research progress of lignocellulosic multifunctional materials
    KONG Weiqing, HU Shufeng, YU Senlong, ZHOU Zhe, ZHU Meifang
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (04): 1-9.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220102509
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    The unique material structure, pronounced anisotropy, good mechanical properties, and micro/nano channels of nature wood endow the wood material with many remarkable properties, providing opportunities for the design of functional materials. In order to improve the utilization and high value transformation of lignocellulose, this review summarized the development of lignocellulose functional materials in view of the structure and the physical/chemical properties of lignocellulose. The effects of structural design and regulation on the properties of lignocellulosic functional materials were scrutinized. The research progress in using lignocellulosic multifunctional fiber materials as structural lightweight materials, biodegradable materials, nanofluids/energy materials, biological materials and textile materials in recent years was reviewed, and the challenges were discussed. The future development direction is proposed to provide theoretical basis and technical support for the high value transformation of lignocellulose and its modern application.

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    Biomimetic structural coloration of textiles
    WANG Xiaohui, LIU Guojin, SHAO Jianzhong
    Journal of Textile Research    2021, 42 (12): 1-14.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211108514
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    Structural coloration is a physical coloration technology producing colorful materials without using chemical colorants (dyes and pigments), and thus the research and application of structural coloration should be a positive action to facilitate the development of eco-textiles. This paper briefly introduces the basic conceptions and principles of structural coloration, and emphatically introduces the main technological approaches to structural coloration of textiles and the challenges to industrialized application, and also puts forward some ideas and strategies to resolve the problems existed currently. Also, it briefly introduces the application and potential application of biomimetic structural coloration in eco-textiles, fashion textiles and smart textiles, and prospect the future development of biomimetic structural coloration of textiles. The coexistence and combination of both pigmentary coloration and structural coloration will be a promise route for the progress of future textile coloration.

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    Research progress on flame-retardation and multi-functionalization of textiles
    XU Yingjun, WANG Fang, NI Yanpeng, CHEN Lin, SONG Fei, WANG Yuzhong
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (02): 1-9.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211203809
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    Most textiles are highly flammable and often bring fire hazards. It is thus of great significance for improving flame retardancy of fabrics. Differentiation and functionalization of fabrics have become the mainstreams in both academic and industrial communities. However, flame-retardant multifunctional fabrics with well-balanced performance (e.g., softness, air permeability, comfort, and drape) have been rarely reported. Designing of functional monomers and additives with coordinated functions and then incorporating them into the fabric system via efficient technologies can be the keys to obtaining flame-retardant multifunctional fabrics. This paper presents work focusing on flame-retardant multifunctional fabrics. Some approaches towards coordination and cooperation among the multiple functions of the fabrics were discussed, and intrinsically flame-retardant and anti-dripping multifunctional polyester were introduced. Flame-retardant antibacterial, anti-corrosion, and water/oil-proof cotton and viscose fabrics, and polyester/cotton blend fabrics via surface treatments were highlighted. In addition, a brief prospect on the opportunities and challenges of the fields was provided, aiming for guiding the development of high-quality flame-retardant multifunctional fabrics.

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    Key technologies supporting low-carbon emissions in dyeing and finishing of textiles
    JI Bolin, WANG Bijia, MAO Zhiping
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (01): 113-121.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210910209
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    In order to understand clearly the technological breakthrough and current situation of the dyeing and finishing industry for low-carbon emission and to discover the technological advance and developing trend, this paper reviews the related technologies and research progress. It started by introducing energy-saving and emission-reducing technologies, smart functional textiles, advanced green dyeing and finishing equipment and systems, and wastewater treatment and recycling, as well as the technical performance and their effects on the low-carbon emissions. Recent years have witnessed an explosion of technological breakthroughs in the traditional processing methods, and the textile industry has kept pace with the cutting-edge techniques such as the smart temperature-regulating clothing. Through multi-dimensional efforts, it will benefit to promote the continuous technological innovation, enhance the industrial value, and reduce the environmental impact. The review concluded that the dyeing and finishing industry can achieve the green and low-carbon circular economic development, and contribute to our country's goal of peaking carbon dioxide emission and reaching carbon neutrality.

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    Research progress of artificial spider silk and imitation spider silk fiber
    WANG Songli, WANG Meilin, ZHOU Xiang, LIU Zunfeng
    Journal of Textile Research    2021, 42 (12): 174-179.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210905206
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    Spider silks have been received much attention from researchers due to their excellent mechanical properties and good biocompatibility. Different from the silk, the spider silk is difficult to be commercially produced in a large scale, as the spiders kill each other in large-scale breeding. Therefore, the development of artificial spider silk and imitation spider silk fibers have become an effective method to solve the above problems. In order to better understand the nature of the strength and toughness of spider silk, the structure of nature spider silk was reviewed, including the primary and β-crystal network (nanofibril) structure and formation process. The progress in the preparation of artificial spider silk and imitation spider silk fibers, including polypeptides, recombinant spider fibrous protein, polymer materials and carbon nanotube yarns and other materials was introduced, which provided reference for further reaearch and large-scale preparation of artificial spider and imitation spider fiber.

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    Research progress of green and low-carbon knitting technology
    JIANG Gaoming, ZHOU Mengmeng, ZHENG Baoping, ZHENG Peixiao, LIU Haisang
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (01): 67-73.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211000607
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    With the introduction of various environmental protection policies, strengthening the concept of sustainable green and low-carbon knitting technology becomes imperative in the whole production process by reducing energy consumption and environmental pollution from knitting processes. Considering every step in the knitting process from fabric design to selecting fiber raw material, preparing and forming fabric, green low-carbon knitting technology will reduce energy consumption and pollution in the production process. On this basis, this paper discusses principally the impact of technological innovation on energy conservation and emission reduction in five areas including production technology of short-flow knitting products, the technology of dye-free knitting jacquard, reinforcing technology of lightweight knitting structure, production technology of low energy knitting equipment, and virtual reality technology of pattern-free knitting. It is recommended to further promote the application of green and low-carbon knitting technology and build a green and low-carbon cycle development system for the knitting industry.

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    Analysis of new five-element-integration spinning technology based on human-machine-material-method-environment for carbon neutralization
    XIA Zhigang, XU Ao, WAN Youshun, WEI Jiang, ZHANG Huixia, TANG Jiandong, ZHENG Minbo, GUO Qinsheng, DING Cailing, YANG Shengming, XU Weilin
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (01): 58-66.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210909310
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    Conventional spinning process is characterized by its long scattered processes and labor intensiveness, causing problems such as high energy consumption per unit production, poor product consistency, and high operating cost. In addition, multiple-type-fiber spinning leads to difficulty in fiber recycling from raw materials and resultant products. As an effort to achieve the goal of carbon peaking in 2030 and carbon neutrality in 2060, this paper establishes a low-carbon spinning strategy as carbon neutralization spinning by integrating human-machine-material-method-environment. In specific, the intensive, simple and the extensive types of low-carbon spinning technologies were analyzed. The analysis results show that after comparison with conventional ring spinning, the intensive intelligent technology achieves low-carbon and high-quality spinning by reducing operation costs by 32.67%, production energy consumption per unit by 17.5%, and product defect rate by 61.54%, effectively addressing the problems in the spinning sector. The simple type can shorten or eliminate steps in the spinning process, achieves spinning speed as high as 550 m/min, realizing the goal of efficiency-improvement and emission-reduction. The extensive type spinning develops a front-end raw material functional recycling to change waste into treasure, reducing energy and emission. The extensive type also develops medium-end carbon-nesting spinning to produce green functional yarns, and resultant manufacturing technology can be used for producing cooling, heat-insulting functional yarns for green terminal textiles.

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    Preparation and study of pure biomass cellulose aerogels for flame retardancy
    LUO Xiaolei, LIU Lin, YAO Juming
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (01): 1-8.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210907508
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    In order to recycle textiles and enhance the green and low-carbon circular development, regenerated cellulose aerogels were prepared from waste cotton yarns, and the biomass tea polyphenol extracted from agricultural and forestry waste was deposited on the aerogel surface under the driving of water environment. The flame retardant cellulose aerogel (BTCA) was developed for pure biomass energy saving and heat preservation. The flame retardancy, thermal stability, thermal decomposition vapor and solid products, and flame retardant mechanism of BTCA were studied and analyzed by limiting oxygen index method, thermogravimetric analysis, thermogravimetric infrared spectroscopy and Raman spectroscopy. Because the biomass tea polyphenol deposits have an excellent antioxidant capacity, it can promote the dehydration and carbonization of cellulose molecular chain at the same time. Based on this, solid-phase flame retardant was achieved, and their thermal stability has been significantly improved. The limit oxygen index was as high as 32.7% and the cellulose aerogel could self-extinguish when leaving the flame.

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    Research progress in resource recycling based on waste textiles
    HAN Fei, LANG Chenhong, QIU Yiping
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (01): 96-105.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210901510
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    With aim to achieve the recycling of waste textiles and promote the construction of closed-loop system of textile industry chain, the conventional recycling framework of waste textiles was summarized based on the existing achievements. The resource recycling methods including primary recycling, physical recycling and chemical recycling were examined, and the advantages and disadvantages of each recovery process were discussed. At the same time, the research progress in the recycling process of single component fiber such as cellulose fiber, polyester fiber, protein fiber, and the typical blended textiles were described. Furthermore, the research progress in the preparation of functional materials based on waste textiles, and their applications in fields such as sound insulation materials, foam materials, solar evaporation and capacitive materials were introduced. Finally, the review pointed out that the comprehensive evaluation system of waste textiles is the key to increase speed and improve quality of resource recycling and to achieve industrial production.

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    Technology progress and application prospect of non-aqueous medium dyeing systems
    PEI Liujun, SHI Wenhua, ZHANG Hongjuan, LIU Jinqiang, WANG Jiping
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (01): 122-130.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210909909
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    In order to achieve dyeing of hydrophilic fibers such as cotton textile with reactive dyes with salt-free, high fixation rate and zero sewage discharge, the problems call for urgent attention in traditional water base were firstly reviewed and analyzed. As the second step review, the less water/water-free dyeing technologies were summarized. The results revealed that these new dyeing technologies of reactive dyes have yet solved the problems of large water consumption and large discharge of wastewater. On this basis, the reactive dyeing in silicone non-aqueous dyeing system was reviewed, including the definition and serviceability of dyeing in non-aqueous medium, the basic requirements of dyeing medium, and further introduced the concept of non-aqueous medium dyeing. The applicability and basic requirements of the medium, the dyeing performance of cotton fiber in non-aqueous medium dyeing system, and the industrialization development were introduced. Finally, the dyeing technology of non-aqueous medium was summarized and prospected. It is believed that the key technology of non-aqueous dyeing would not only solve the problems of high pollution and high emission of cotton textile dyeing, but also the energy consumption and cost of dyeing have been further reduced. This dyeing technology is expected to change the image of serious environmental pollution in the traditional dyeing industry, and to lead to a clean production and sustainable development for textile dyeing.

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    Research progress and prospect on biodegradable polylactic acid-based melt-blown nonwovens
    ZHU Feichao, ZHANG Yujing, ZHANG Qiang, YE Xiangyu, ZHANG Heng, WANG Lunhe, HUANG Ruijie, LIU Guojin, YU Bin
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (01): 49-57.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210910009
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    Polylactic acid-based(PLA-based)melt-blown nonwovens have drawbacks such as insufficient flexibility, low heat-resistant temperature, poor electret durability, and single functionality, which limit their development and applications as high-performance adsorption and filtration materials. This paper comprehensively reviewed the research progress of PLA-based melt-blown nonwovens focusing on raw material design, processing and applications. It introduced the processing and molding methods of PLA-based melt-blown nonwovens, explored the modification of PLA-based melt-blown materials, including masterbatch modification (copolymerization/block, enhanced toughening, functional modification, etc.) and finishing modification (durable electret and functional finishing). The typical applications of PLA-based melt-blown nonwovens in the fields of air filtration, medical protection, health care, tissue engineering, cleaning and wiping, oil absorption and warmth are explained. The development trends of PLA-based micro-nano scale melt-blown fiber, multi-component, composites, durable electret, function and intelligence are prospected, so as to provide theoretical and technical reference for development of PLA-based melt-blown nonwovens with high quality and high value.

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    Rapid separation and content determination of fibers from waste cotton/polyester blended fabrics
    ZHANG Xiaocheng, ZHOU Yan, TIAN Weiguo, QIAO Xin, JIA Fengwei, XU Lili, ZHANG Jinming, ZHANG Jun
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (07): 1-8.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220307508
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    Based on ionic liquid/co-solvent system with excellent dissolving capability for cellulose and relatively low viscosity, a method for rapid component separation and content determination for waste cotton/polyester blended fabrics was proposed. The effect of ionic liquid and co-solvent on the dissolving capability, solution viscosity, structure and properties of separated components was studied. The results indicate that the 1-butyl-3-methylimidazolium acetate/dimethyl sulfoxide (the mass ratio is 1:1) system can selectively dissolve cellulose in the cotton/polyester blended fabrics, and the resultant cellulose solution has a low viscosity. Subsequently, after a simple filtration, cellulose and polyester fibers can be completely separated under simple and mild conditions, with the separation temperature to be 25-60 ℃. The cellulose component is almost non-degradable, and can be processed into film, fibers and microspheres. The polyester component with a high purity can also be separated and keep its original textile morphology in blended fabrics. In summary, the ionic liquid/co-solvent method not only can high-efficiently separate the components of the cotton/polyester blended fabrics, but also can accurately measure the components content. Therefore, this work provides a promising and useful method to the recycling and re-utilization of waste textiles, indicating a great potential in the practical applications.

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    Preparation and properties of cellulose/calcium alginate blend fiber
    CHEN Zihan, YAO Yongbo, SHENG Junlu, YAN Zhiyong, ZHANG Yumei, WANG Huaping
    Journal of Textile Research    2021, 42 (12): 15-20.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210204706
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    In order to reduce the flammability of cellulose fibers, ionic liquid 1-allyl-3-methylimidazole chloride ([AMIM]Cl) was used as co-solvent for cellulose and alginic acid. Then, the cellulose/calcium alginate blend fiber was prepared with calcium chloride solution as the coagulation bath by dry-jet wet spinning. The effect of cellulose/calcium alginate blend ratio on the structure and properties of the fibers were studied. The results show that the cross-section of the blend fibers is dense, and the hydrogen bond interactions exist between cellulose and calcium alginate molecules. Despite the fact of the mechanical strength of the blend fibers decreases with the increase of calcium alginate content, the tensile strength reaches 123 MPa when the content of calcium alginate is 30%, and the self-extinguishing time from fire of this fiber is only 1.1 s, indicating excellent self-extinguishing property. In addition, the moisture regain of cellulose/calcium alginate blend fibers is 7.33%-7.75%, representing good hygrophilic property and wearability for regenerated cellulose fibers.

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    Progress in biomass fiber medical dressings
    WU Yang, LIU Fangtian, CAO Mengjie, CUI Jinhai, DENG Hongbing
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (03): 8-16.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211200109
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    In view of the problems of easy infection and secondary injury of current traditional medical dressings in wound care, this paper reviews the good hygroscopicity, bacteriostasis and certain biological activity of some biomass fibers, the advantages of biomass fibers as medical dressings are introduced, considering the natural biodegradability, biocompatibility and non-toxicity of biomass raw materials. By briefly summarizing the preparation methods of different biomass fibers for medical dressings, the suitable biomass fibers for the customized treatment of different wounds are proposed. The research progress of various biomass fiber medical dressings achieved in recent years are reviewed, including their functional applications in antibacterial and anti-inflammatory, drug delivery, exudate management, and tissue replacement medical dressings. The existing problems and future development directions of biomass fiber medical dressings are discussed.

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    Research progress in fibrous materials for interfacial solar steam generation system
    GE Can, ZHANG Chuanxiong, FANG Jian
    Journal of Textile Research    2021, 42 (12): 166-173.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20201007508
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    Aimed at the alleviation of the increasingly scarce of fossil energy and the shortage of fresh water resources, and promote development and application of fibrous materials in the utilization of water resources, latest research progress in the interfacial solar steam generation system using fibrous materials was reviewed. This paper started by introducing the main principles, development history and the applications of interfacial solar steam generation system. The photothermal conversion materials and auxiliary materials in the interfacial solar steam generation system were reviewed and analyzed respectively. Based on their functions, the advantages of the fibrous materials such as diversified functions, light weight, low cost and ease of processing were elaborated, demonstrating fibrous materials' excellent performance as the main raw materials for the interfacial solar steam generation system. This paper concluded with an outlook on the challenges in using fibrous materials for the interfacial solar steam generation system and possible solutions to improve the practicality of the system. It is anticipated that this review paper can benefit the widespread applications of fibrous materials in interfacial solar steam systems.

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    Trend of environmental governance in textile industry aiming at carbon neutrality and emission reduction
    TANG Zhengkun, LIU Yanbin, XU Chenye, LIU Yanbiao, SHEN Chensi, LI Fang, WANG Huaping
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (01): 131-140.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210909010
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    In the face of global fossil energy tightening, excess greenhouse gas emissions and severe water pollution control situation, reducing pollution and carbon emission is extremely urgent. As a traditional pillar industry in China, the development of textile industry constitutes as an important route for achieving the low-carbon green industry. In this review, this paper firstly analyzed the units of energy consumption and pollution emissions from the whole production chains. The main links of carbon emission and potentials for carbon reduction in the process of textile raw material, dyeing and finishing and finished product were dissected in details, and the cutting-edge technologies for the carbon reduction pollution control and resource recycling were summarized. Finally, based on exemplar case of Binhai Industrial Park in textile industry cluster in Keqiao District, Shaoxing City, the positive effect of industrial agglomeration on industrial carbon reduction was discussed from the perspective of environmental management. The future goals of pollution control and carbon reduction can only be achieved by the improvements in system, technology and management.

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    Research progress in chemical recycling of waste cotton and polyester textiles
    CHEN Long, ZHOU Zhe, ZHANG Jun, XU Shimei, NI Yanpeng
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (05): 43-48.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211201806
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    A large number of waste cotton and polyester textiles are produced in China, but the recycling rate is low and high quality products are rare. Focusing on this problem, the recycling of waste cotton and polyester fabrics based on chemical recycling was reviewed. The technology of waste cotton pulp preparation and its fiber spinning, the monomer preparation from the depolymerization of waste polyester and its polymerization were examined. The literature review indicated that the small-scale production of waste cotton was involved in the making of regenerated Lyocell fibers by mixing low proportion of waste cotton regenerated pulp with the primary wood pulp, and that 10 000-ton scale production of chemically regenerated polyethylene terephthalate(PET) from waste PET textiles has been achieved through glycol alcoholysis-methanol ester exchange technology. However, there are still problems such as technical difficulties, high production cost, low recovery and utilization rate, poor product quality, and high degree of " waste production caused by waste treatment ". Hence, key technology development for waste textile recycling should be the focus of research emphasizing on clean recycling and high value utilization of waste cotton and polyester textiles.

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    Green consumption policy system and its enlightenment to clothing green consumption
    SHAO Peng, ZHANG Yuanyuan
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (01): 208-215.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210906008
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    In order to reduce the environmental pollution caused by the textile industry and to promote the green consumption of clothing, this paper sets out to examine the targeted areas of green consumption policies issued on the national level. Nine dimensions including green products, green technologies, green value chains, green consumption education, green consumption incentives, green consumption subjects, sharing, and recycling, were refined through three-level coding. The research found that green consumption policy focuses on the stage of product production and recycling, which mainly concerns the fields of daily necessities and services, transportation and communications, and lacks attention to the field of clothing. The National Development and Reform Commission, the Ministry of Ecology and Environmental, the Ministry of Finance and the Ministry of Commerce have issued many green consumption policies. It is proposed that garment production enterprises should promote transformation and upgrading through green technology innovation, garment retail enterprises should encourage green consumption intention charge to green consumption behavior, and social and industry institutions should innovate the green consumption cooperation mode.

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    Analysis on cross-sectional structure of moso bamboo using three-dimensional microscope imaging
    CHEN Hainiao, TIAN Wei, JIN Xiaoke, ZHANG Hongxia, LI Yanqing, ZHU Chengyan
    Journal of Textile Research    2021, 42 (12): 49-54.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20201208206
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    In order to study the characteristics and distribution of the cross-sectional structure of moso bamboo, X-ray three-dimensional microscope was used to study the vascular bundle and the parenchyma cell structure of the basic tissue of moso bamboo, and the distribution rules of the long and short axis, area, volume fraction and parenchyma cell area of the vascular bundle were analyzed. The results showed that from the outside to the inside of the cross-section of moso bamboo, the vascular bundle long axis gradually decreased, the short axis gradually increased, and finally the long and short axis tended to be the same. After that, the vascular bundle area gradually increased, and the volume fraction gradually decreased. The adjacent center wheelbase increased, and the area of a single parenchyma cell gradually decreased. On the whole, the cross-section of moso bamboo demonstrated a gradient change. Inspired by the gradient change of bamboo cross-section, the gradient change could be applied to the engineering of bionic composites for specific properties. The gradient change of the overall structure of biomimetic composites can be realized by changing the distribution of fiber and resin. When it is applied to the design of biomimetic composites, the research of biomimetic fiber composites can be carried out.

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    Research progress in warp-knitted meshes for tackling complications after hernia repair
    QIAO Yansha, MAO Ying, XU Danyao, LI Yan, LI Shaojie, WANG Lu, TANG Jianxiong
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (03): 1-7.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211109707
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    In view of the multiple complications caused by synthetic meshes implanted for hernia repair, a literature review was carried out and it revealed that the triggering factors of complications are the pollution from the pathogenic bacteria and the foreign body reaction from the mesh. Regarding the commonly used warp-knitted mesh, the present treatments were divided into the warp-knitted structure adjustment and the surface modification. According to the different scenarios (bacterial or aseptic inflammation) and occasions (intraperitoneal or extraperitoneal), the surface modifications were classified and explained. The progress in related researches and clinical commercial meshes in recent years were scrutinized, and summarized three types of modified meshes (anti-bacterial, anti-adhesion, anti-inflammation) were summarised. By outlining the corresponding mechanisms and effects on complications, this paper pointed out the current problems of these types of modified meshes and concluded that the high-value warp-knitted mesh is the future development direction.

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    Structural design and implementation of warp-knitted fully-formed neck sleeves
    ZOU Ya'nan, XIA Fenglin, DONG Zhijia, HUANG Mengting, CHU Kaiyuan
    Journal of Textile Research    2021, 42 (12): 76-80.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210306705
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    Aiming at the current problems of knitted neck sleeves with simple styles and the necessity for multiple cutting and sewing, resulting in cutting loss, this research developed a technique for fully-formed stylish neck sleeves by warp-knitted based on the data analysis of the human head and neck sizes. The basic pattern structure was determined followed by the design of the wearing part and the structure on the pattern. A double-layer structure with openings for the mouth and nose areas was designed and manufactured through the jacquard variable organization positioning design assisted by a CAD system, leading to creation of the process template and the fabric structure simulation platform. Style 3D software was used to carry out the three-dimensional geometrical modeling and virtual display of the warp-knitted fully-formed neck sleeves. The results show that the one-piece double-layer structure is able to be realized using the jacquard technique. Through the two-dimensional simulation and three-dimensional virtual display of the warp-knitted fully-formed fabric, the wearing effect of the developed neck sleeve can be quickly previewed and reviewed to achieve rapid development of new warp-knitted fully-formed products.

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    Circular economy in European Union textile industry chain and key issues of waste textiles treatment
    YANG Xing, LI Qingzhou, WU Min, ZHOU Yongkai
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (01): 106-112.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210804507
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    The contradiction between waste textiles and green sustainable development is becoming increasingly prominent under the vision of carbon neutrality. The textile industry should not only focus on the treatment of end-of-life waste textiles, but also reduce the negative impact on the environment from the industrial chain. Due to the systematic and comprehensive impact of carbon footprint, carbon emission reduction measures should be based on the industrial chain and textile life cycle. The European Union (EU) has a series of measures to achieve circular economy and deal with waste textiles, which are of reference significance. The EU's relevant situation was explored in three aspects, i.e., the current situation and challenges of the EU textile industry, the sustainability in the textile industry chain, and the disposal and key issues of waste textiles. The enlightenment of the EU's experience to the policy making in China was also discussed. Inspired by the carbon footprint accounting method of the life cycle assessment, the textile industry chain was divided into four stages: material selection, design, production and sales, and end-use to discuss green and low-carbon measures, and the response method of waste textiles is reuse and recycling. The key issues in processing waste textiles are classification and sorting, recycling quality and safety, extended producer responsibility and labeling system.

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    Advancement in data-driven intelligent control system for roboticized textile production
    ZHANG Jie, XU Chuqiao, WANG Junliang, ZHENG Xiaohu
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (09): 1-10.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220506610
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    The scale of China's textile industry is huge with long production process, and the industry employs large number of workers, and full-process automated production is still difficult to achieve. The construction of a data-driven intelligent control system for roboticized textile production would play an important role in promoting the transformation and upgrading of China's textile industry from labor-intensive to less-personnel or unmanned production. This paper systematically reviewed the development history of textile robot and intelligent manufacturing system, and proposed a data-driven intelligent control system architecture for roboticized textile production. From the equipment layer, data layer and application layer, this paper discussed three key technologies and applications: multi-type textile robots to fill in the process breakpoints, multi-chain integrated digital thread of textile entire process, and multi-application collaborative intelligent control of textile production. Furthermore, the challenges in practical applications were summarized. The review concluded that high-speed, real-time, dexterity, precision, autonomous and collaborative textile robots, and intelligent management and control systems for textile production with interpretability, sustainability and toughness are possible future development directions.

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    Airflow sensitivity of local human skin and its influencing factors
    ZHANG Zhaohua, CHEN Zhirui, LI Luyao, XIAO Ping, PENG Haoran, ZHANG Yuhan
    Journal of Textile Research    2021, 42 (12): 125-130.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210400607
    Abstract235)   HTML7)    PDF(pc) (7823KB)(76)       Save

    In order to explore the influencing factors of airflow sensitivity for different human body segments, this study evaluated the local skin temperature change rate of each body segment and the subjective airflow intensity feeling of the front chest, upper back, lower back, front thigh and back thigh under the airflow stimuli at temperatures of 5 ℃ lower than, equal to and 5 ℃ higher than skin temperature, and the Weber fraction was used to analyze the sensitivity difference of each body segment to the airflow. The results show that the stimulating air temperature has a significant effect on the airflow sensitivity of the human body. When the stimulating air temperature is equal to the local skin temperature, the skin airflow sensitivity is the lowest, indicating that the temperature sensor plays an important role in the skin airflow perception. The upper back and the front thigh are most sensitive to the warm airflow, whereas the lower back and the back thigh are most sensitive to the cold airflow, although no significant statistical differences were found between the various body segments.

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    Chemical separation and recycling of waste polyester/cotton blended military training uniforms
    DONG Shuang, KONG Yuying, GUAN Jinping, CHENG Xianwei, CHEN Guoqiang
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (01): 178-185.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210910608
    Abstract230)   HTML12)    PDF(pc) (5760KB)(121)       Save

    Polyester/cotton blended fabrics are widely used for military training uniforms and civilian military training uniforms. However, the military training uniforms, form a large amount of waste every year, leading to heavy waste of resources. This paper reports the alcoholysis of polyester from the polyester/cotton blended military training uniforms with zinc acetate, urea, and urea-zinc acetate eutectic system as catalysts, where the cellulose was also recycled through this acid hydrolysis. The influence of the catalyst type and dosage, and the reaction temperature and time on the alcoholysis efficiency of polyester was explored. Three different waste textiles containing polyester were used. The alcoholysis polyethene terephthalate(BHET) monomer and acidolysis cellulose were characterized using the fourier transform infrared, nuclear magnetic resonance, differential scanning calorimetry analyses. The results show that the polyester has good alcoholysis efficiency under the following conditions: zinc acetate as the catalyst, the relative mass fraction of waste military training uniforms was 0.6%, the reaction solid-liquid ratio was 1∶6, the reaction temperature was 196 ℃, and the reaction time was 3 h. White cellulose was obtained and the goal of separating and recycling different components of waste military training uniforms was achieved.

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    Preparation and properties of single-layer and parallel silk fibroin fiber patterns with cell adhesion contrast properties
    GU Zhanghong, YAO Xiang, WANG Jinsi, ZHANG Yaopeng
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (05): 1-6.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211109306
    Abstract229)   HTML55)    PDF(pc) (5101KB)(124)       Save

    Aiming at the interference of various background adhesion when investigating the influence of fiber characteristics on cell behavior, a substrate with anti-cell adhesion property was obtained by grafting of oligo-ethylene glycol silylation reagent on the surface of glass. The parallel single-layer silk fibroin (SF) fibers with cell adhesion property were prepared using wet spinning technology on the surface of the substrate, and the two ends of SF fibers were fixed on modified substrate by polydimethylsiloxane to prepare single-layer and parallel arranged fiber patterns. The diameter, surface morphology, structural component of SF fibers and fiber spacing in the constructed fiber patterns were characterized, and L929 was taken as an example to verify corresponding cell adhesion contrast properties of the constructed fiber patterns. Results show that the SF fibers with different diameters present similar morphological features and secondary structure contents. After cell seeding, the cells can only adhere to the surface of SF fibers, but not to the background substrate, confirming excellent cell adhesion contrast properties of the fiber patterns.

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    Review of digital pattern-making technology in garment production
    LEI Ge, LI Xiaohui
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (04): 203-209.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20201105507
    Abstract229)   HTML39)    PDF(pc) (2739KB)(155)       Save

    To promote the application and development of digital pattern-making technology, this paper starts by introducing the two-dimensional pattern generation technology including parametric design and application of artificial, and three-dimensional virtual suture technology. The methods to generate garment models, including three-dimensional auto-generation, three-dimensional visual draping, three-dimensional reconstruction, and three-dimensional modular reorganization were discussed. Surface development techniques such as geometric development, mechanical development, the combination of geometry and mechanics were summarized. The paper illustrates that the digital garment pattern-making technology has great potential in pattern-making simplification, experience-independence, and the transformation between visual three-dimensional modeling and two-dimensional pattern. The potential development direction of digital pattern-making is to improve pattern accuracy, modeling accuracy and efficiency while satisfying the personalization and diversification of clothing by combining human innovation potential and computer computing power.

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    Research progress in flame retardant cellulose aerogel
    FANG Yinchun, SUN Weihao
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (01): 43-48.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210904506
    Abstract228)   HTML21)    PDF(pc) (5963KB)(152)       Save

    In order to improve the flame retardancy of cellulose aerogel and broaden its application field, the classification and preparation of cellulose aerogel are introduced. The research progress in inorganic flame retardants, organic flame retardants and organic/inorganic composite flame retardants were reviewed. The advantages and disadvantages of all types of flame retardant cellulose aerogels were compared and analyzed, among which, organic/inorganic composite flame retardants have the advantages of both of two single flame retardants, showing high flame retardant efficiency, though there are also poor compatibility and complex preparation process problems. The future development trend of cellulose aerogel flame retardant research was prospected, and it was pointed out that the bio-based flame retardant with green, environmental protection, high efficiency and good compatibility would become the main research direction of cellulose aerogel flame retardant in the future.

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    Preparation and properties of thermoplastic polyurethane/tefluororone amorphous fluoropolymer superhydrophobic nanofiber membranes
    XU Shilin, YANG Shiyu, ZHANG Yaru, HU Liu, HU Yi
    Journal of Textile Research    2021, 42 (12): 42-42.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210201807
    Abstract225)   HTML13)    PDF(pc) (9075KB)(57)       Save

    Aiming at the problems of low mechanical properties and poor-hydrophobicity of nanofiber membrane, thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) nanofiber membrane was prepared by electrospinning,and the TPU/tefluororone amorphous fluoropolymer (Teflon AF) superhydrophobic nanofiber membrane was obtained by impregnating in Teflon AF solution. The influence of immersion concentration and dipping time on the hydrophobicity and mechanical properties of the nanofiber membranes were analyzed by scanning electron microscope, electronic universal tester, and video contact angle tensiometer. The results show that when the mass fraction of Teflon AF is increased to 6%, the water contact angle of the nanofiber membrane reaches 150°, and the oil contact angle becomes lower than 3°, showing a superhydrophobicity. The mechanical strength of the nanofiber membrane were not affected by the impregnation, and the modulus of elasticity displayed an increase to 5.09 Pa. The nanofiber membrane implies good potential application value in filter media and biomedical fields.

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    Improved clothing recommendation algorithm based on simulation scoring
    JIANG Xuewei, TIAN Runyu, LU Fangxiao, ZHANG Yi
    Journal of Textile Research    2021, 42 (12): 138-144.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210204107
    Abstract220)   HTML12)    PDF(pc) (2848KB)(94)       Save

    The traditional clothing recommendation algorithms do not pay enough attention to consumers and clothing characteristics, hence the prediction results are short in pertinence and effectiveness. To improve on these, a model of consumers' interest attenuation in shopping was constructed by using clothing coding, time interval and Euclidean distance, and an improved clothing recommendation algorithm based on simulation scoring was proposed. By comparing the average absolute error between the true values and the predicted values of the simulation scoring algorithm and the improved algorithm based on singular value decomposition, it is found that the average absolute error of the simulation scoring algorithm is 0.808, which is 0.024 lower than that of the improved algorithm based on singular value decomposition. The error of 25% of all cases is bigger than 1, and the average error after excluding this part of cases is 0.632. Through such case analysis, it is found that the average absolute accuracy of 90% recommendation is greater than 96%, and the accuracy of 10% recommendation is between 60% and 64%. The reason for big error is either because of the preference changes of the targeted consumer groups, or the targeted consumer group have not purchased clothes for a long time.

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    Structure and performances of Yunnan wild fireweed fiber and its fibrous network
    YU Yan, WANG Xichao, ZHANG Ruiyun, LI Rongli, CHENG Longdi
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (04): 10-14.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210303906
    Abstract219)   HTML29)    PDF(pc) (4851KB)(85)       Save

    The ancient fireweed textile technology for obtaining textile fibers is a cultural heritage of ethnic minorities. In order to study systematically the fiber and realize its popularization and application in the textile field, the basic structure and properties of wild fireweed fiber of Yunnan area and its network stripped from the back by hand were characterized by experiments. The studies show that the diameter of fireweed fiber is 1.05-5.76 μm, and it belongs to microfiber category. The longitudinal morphology of the fiber is characteristic of banded curvature, with folds and grooves on the surface, and the cross section is irregular elliptic with a cavity structure. The main components of the fiber are cellulose and hemicellulose with crystallinity of 55.52%. The thermal decomposition temperature of the fiber is 240 ℃, which has a good heat resistance. The content of lipid and wax is 6%, and the wetting angle with water is about 129.5° with good water-repellent ability. The moisture regain rate of the fiber is 11.69% and the moisture containing capacity is 10.47%, which is higher than that of cotton. Fireweed fiber has good resistance to acid and alkali at normal temperature, and the pH value of fiber water extract is 7.23, which is friendly to human skin.

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    Application research progress in phase change materials for thermal protective clothing
    ZHU Xiaorong, HE Jiazhen, WANG Min
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (04): 194-202.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20201102509
    Abstract216)   HTML31)    PDF(pc) (3576KB)(132)       Save

    In order to understand and improve the thermal protective performance of thermal protective clothing with phase change materials (PCMs), the application, influencing factors and future research trends of PCMs in thermal protective clothing were summarized in this review paper. The types and characteristics of PCMs were introduced, and the application methods of PCMs in thermal protective clothing using the sealed bag method, spinning method and fabric finishing of microcapsule technology were presented. In addition, the development process of heat transfer model of thermal protective clothing incorporated with PCMs were reviewed. The factors affecting thermal protective performance were summarized from the aspects of material type, phase change temperature, added amount and configuration of PCMs in a multilayer protective clothing. Finally, the future research trends of PCMs in this field were analyzed from the perspectives of researching and developing new PCMs and reducing heat storage release of PCMs.

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    Efficient separation of polyester and cotton from waste blended fabrics with dilute oxalic acid solution
    SHI Sheng, WANG Yan, LI Fei, TANG Jiandong, GAO Xiangyu, HOU Wensheng, GUO Hong, WANG Shuhua, JI Jiaqi
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (02): 140-148.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210702709
    Abstract216)   HTML3)    PDF(pc) (13998KB)(42)       Save

    In view of the problem that tightly twisted polyester and cotton fibers in blended yarns are difficult to separate and hence unable to be processed in the recycling of waste textiles, an environmentally friendly oxalic acid system was used to selectively hydrolyze the cotton fiber of blended fabric hence releasing the polyester fiber to achieve effective separation. The conditions of oxalic acid treatment were further optimized. The results show that oxalic acid can achieve the same separation effect as hydrochloric acid under the same reaction conditions, and the morphology of polyester fiber is more complete, the hydrolysis degree of cotton fiber is lower and the distribution of hydrolysate is narrower. When the oxalic acid concentration is 0.07 mol/L, the reaction temperature is 130 ℃ and the reaction time is 3 h, the separation effect of polyester and cotton in the blended fabric reach the best level, where the yield of cotton fiber hydrolyzed into cellulose reaches 91.46%, with a small part being hydrolyzed into glucose or other oligosaccharides. The recovery ratio of polyester fiber is as high as 99.28%, retaining the original physical and chemical properties, which can be directly processed for textile production. The reaction system can be used for many times, facilitating the high efficiency and comprehensive utilization of waste polyester/cotton blended fabrics.

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    Carbon fiber reinforced epoxy based vitrimer composite material closed-loop recycling
    LI Bo, FAN Wei, GAO Xingzhong, WANG Shujuan, LI Zhihu
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (01): 15-20.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210905306
    Abstract215)   HTML8)    PDF(pc) (4820KB)(86)       Save

    In order to solve the problem of low recycling efficiency and single recycling component of continuous carbon fiber reinforced resin matrix composite material (CFRP), methyl tetrahydrophthalic anhydride, tetrahydrophthalic anhydride, catalyst zinc acetylacetonate and epoxy resin were used to prepare a high-performance epoxy based vitrimer resin and its composite material. A closed-loop recycling was conducted involving the transesterification reaction of ethylene glycol (EG) at 180 ℃. Ethylene glycol participates in the transesterification reaction, and the composite material is recovered in a closed loop at 180 ℃. The apparent structure, thermal stability and mechanical properties of raw resin, carbon fiber and CFRP, recovered resin, carbon fiber and CFRP prepared from recovered resin and recovered carbon fiber were characterized and analyzed. The results show that the recoverying method can completely recover and reprocess the resin and carbon fiber of the composite material. After recycling, the retention rate of the tensile strength of the resin is 90.1%, the retention rate of the tensile strength of the carbon fiber monofilament is 98.9%, and the retention rate of the flexural strength and shear strength of CFRP are 86.2% and 86.7%, respectively.

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    Parametric fashion design based on Voronoi graphics
    WANG Di, KE Ying, WANG Hongfu
    Journal of Textile Research    2021, 42 (12): 131-137.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210503707
    Abstract212)   HTML10)    PDF(pc) (14382KB)(69)       Save

    Aiming at the difficulty in applying the algorithm-generated high-complexity generative geometry to garment design practice by traditional design methods, the representative generative geometry Voronoi graphics was chosen as the experimental object, and a garment contour surface driven by the human body model was created that highly fits the curvature of the human body surface. The grasshopper plug-in technique was employed to generate Voronoi shapes, and the set of generated points was changed points by point to avoid line interference. The "morph to surface" command was executed to convert the two-dimensional Voronoi shapes to the three-dimensional garment surface. The "weavebird" plug-in was used to complete the thickening and rounding of the model and a white diffuse reflective material was assumed to obtain a parametric three-dimensional garment model that meets modern aesthetics. The research results show that through the construction of parametric garment model, the three-dimensional software Rhino can be used in combination with its plug-in grasshopper for the design of parametric garment model, and through a variety of interferences a three-dimensional digital garment model with variable forms and controllable parameters was established.

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    Impact of environmental claims of garment enterprises on consumers' purchase intention
    HOU Yiming, LU Cheng
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (01): 201-207.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210909807
    Abstract210)   HTML9)    PDF(pc) (6430KB)(140)       Save

    In order to improve consumers' recognition of different type's environmental claims of garment enterprises, this research examines consumers' responses to substantive environmentally related claims by the garment enterprises under different fear appeals. Independent-samples T-test and regression analysis were used to discuss the impact of the environmental claims on consumers' purchase intention as well as the mediating effects of perceived green value. Through two experimental studies, it was found that compared with the reference group that did not put forward environmental claim, the subjects have higher purchasing attitude towards enterprises that put forward environmental claim. However, there is no significant difference in purchase intention between substantive and related environmental claim conditions. The research also revealed that fear appeal can stimulate the difference of subjects' purchase intention between substantive and related environmental claim conditions. Under low fear appeal condition, there is no significant difference in consumers' purchase intention between related and substantive environmental claim conditions. However, under high fear appeal condition, subjects have higher purchase intention for substantive environmental claim than related environmental claim, with perceived green value as mediation.

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    Preparation of dendritic nanofiber membrane induced by hyperbranched quaternary ammonium salt and its properties
    YAO Ying, ZHAO Weitao, ZHANG Desuo, LIN Hong, CHEN Yuyue, WEI Hong
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (10): 1-9.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211202809
    Abstract209)   HTML45)    PDF(pc) (3337KB)(160)       Save

    In order to develop membrane materials with high efficiency filtration performance, this research prepared polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF) dendritic nanofiber membranes using hyperbranched quaternary ammonium salt (HBP-HTC) as a branching promoter based on electrostatic spinning technology in one step. The influence of the spinning process on the forming structure of the fiber membrane was explored. The mechanical properties of the dendritic nanofiber membrane were analyzed and its air filtration performance was measured. The results showed that the nanofiber membrane prepared with HBP-HTC has more dendritic structures than the membrance prepared with small molecule quaternary ammonium salts due to the abundant quaternary ammonium groups on the surface of HBP-HTC, which has a stable enrichment effect on charge. When the mass fraction of PVDF was 12%, the quaternary ammonium groups was 0.1 mol/L, and the spinning voltage was 25 kV, the dendritic coverage of the fabricated fiber membranes was as high as 78.32% and demonstrated good mechanical properties. The filtration efficiency of the prepared nanofiber membrane reached 99.995% at the thickness of 40 μm, while the pressure drop is 122.4 Pa.

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    Synthesis and properties of bio-based liquid crystal copolyester fiber based on p-hydroxyphenyl propionic acid
    LI Longlong, WEI Peng, WU Cuixia, YAN Jinfei, LOU Hejuan, ZHANG Yifeng, XIA Yumin, WANG Yanping, WANG Yimin
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (01): 9-14.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210909606
    Abstract208)   HTML14)    PDF(pc) (4107KB)(80)       Save

    In order to improve the mechanical property and thermal stability of bio-based polymers, the bio-based liquid crystal copolyester derived from 6-hydroxy-2-naphthenic acid, p-hydroxybenzoic acid and p-hydroxyphenyl propionic acid(HPPA) were studied and successfully synthesized via the one-pot melt polymerization method, and the structures and properties of the spun fibers from the bio-based liquid crystal copolyesters were prepared by melt spinning. The results show that the prepared bio-based liquid crystal copolyester is a nematic liquid crystal polymer. Its melting point is around 200 ℃, and it decreases with the increase of HPPA monomer content. High content of HPPA leads to weak melting behavior, which is not conducive to crystallization. The copolyesters show good thermal stability and high char yield, and the temperature corresponded to 5% weight loss and char yield at 700 ℃ are above 370 ℃ and 30%, respectively. The surface of the as spun copolyester fiber is smooth and uniform, the cross section has an obvious fibrillar structure. The fibers have good mechanical properties, which are negatively related to the content of HPPA.

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    Research progress in image segmentation and edge detection methods for alien fibers detection in cotton
    REN Weijia, DU Yuhong, ZUO Hengli, YUAN Ruwang
    Journal of Textile Research    2021, 42 (12): 196-204.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210204309
    Abstract206)   HTML15)    PDF(pc) (4368KB)(84)       Save

    In order to further improve the detection efficiency for picking up alien fibers among cotton, image processing methods for detecting alien fibers were reviewed. This paper analyzed the inaccurate location, background blur and the influence of noise in edge detection methods, and studied the edge continuity and segmentation effect of different alien fibers in the image segmentation methods. The common edge detection methods and image segmentation methods for alien fibers among cotton were discussed, advantages and limitations of various processing methods were analyzed, and the detection methods applicable to various alien fibers were summarized, pointing out the existing problems and deficiencies in current practice. It is concluded that different image processing methods are currently applied to detect different types of alien fibers, and it is not possible to detect all types of alien fibers at the same time. The paper highlighted that the suitable detection algorithms should be selected and combined according to the specific types, contents, physical characteristics of alien fibers to develop an universal algorithm in order to reduce the cost and calculation burden.

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    Research progress in key technologies of spun yarn warp knitting production
    JIANG Gaoming, CHENG Bilian, WAN Ailan, LI Bingxian
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (05): 7-11.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211206706
    Abstract206)   HTML40)    PDF(pc) (5446KB)(110)       Save

    In view of the problems of low strength, high hairiness, small elongation, high twist and high cost in warp knitting production using spun fiber yarns, the warping technology, high-speed production technology, clean production technology, intelligent production and fully formed warp knitting production technology in the production of spun yarn warp knitting were summarized in this paper. By summarizing the yarn quality requirements of spun yarn for warp knitting, including yarn breaking strength, surface hairiness and elongation properties, the problems and solutions of spun yarn warp knitting technology were further analyzed. Through introducing the application status and production situation of spun yarn warp knitted products in the fields of shirt fabrics, underwear fabrics, trousers and lace fabrics, the future development direction of spun yarn warp knitted technology was prospected, pointing out that the production technology of spun yarn warp knitting is gradually going towards specialization, high quality and functionality.

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    Dyeing properties of polylactic acid/polyketone fibers with disperse dye
    CHEN Peng, LIAO Shihao, SHEN Lanping, WANG Xuan, WANG Peng
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (05): 12-17.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211206506
    Abstract199)   HTML32)    PDF(pc) (3166KB)(93)       Save

    To improve dyeing performance of polylactic acid (PLA) fibers, Disperse Blue 79 was used to dye polylactic acid/polyketone (PLA/PK) blend fibers. The influence of dyeing temperature, time, pH value and other factors were investigated, with the dyeing kinetics and thermodynamic behavior analyzed. The optimal processing parameters were identified, which are dyeing temperature of 110 ℃, holding time of 40 min, and pH value of 5. With increased PK content, the K/S value of the blend fibers increases significantly and the color fastness to rubbing and soaping remains over level 3,the equilibrium adsorption amount of Disperse Blue 79 dye on the blend fiber increases, the half dyeing time decreases, and the diffusion coefficient increases, further confirming the improved dyeing properties of the blend fiber. The adsorption isotherms of Disperse Blue 79 dye to PLA fiber and blended fibers are calculated by fitting, showing a composite curve of Nernst and Langmuir.

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    Typical model for recycling of used clothes and analysis of environmental impact
    JIANG Tao, ZHOU Li, WANG Lin, CHENG Weizhao, ZHOU Anzhan
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (01): 186-192.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210402907
    Abstract194)   HTML12)    PDF(pc) (5448KB)(124)       Save

    In order to promote the recycling of domestic used clothing and quantify its environmental impact, this study introduces and analyzes a typical model for used clothing recycling and resource reutilization led by brand companies, employing the life cycle assessment method. By delineating the system boundary, a calculation method for the environmental impact was constructed, and the environmental impact was calculated through data collection and quantitative analysis. Studies have shown that the recycling of used clothing has obvious impact on environment. Brand companies have an active role in driving and promoting the recycling and utilization of waste clothing. While extending the life cycle of fiber resources, it can also promote the development of green design of industrial products. In addition, the calculation method proposed in this study can not only provide guidance for evaluating the environmental impact of the recycling process of used clothing, but also provide a reference for the environmental behavior evaluation of multi-life cycle products in the process of comprehensive utilization of fiber resources.

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    Research progress in braided cordage made from high-performance fibers for spacecraft applications
    DING Xu, SUN Ying, LUO Min, WANG Xingze, CHEN Li, CHEN Guangwei
    Journal of Textile Research    2021, 42 (12): 180-187.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20200907708
    Abstract187)   HTML12)    PDF(pc) (4413KB)(92)       Save

    According to the application requirements of braided cordages mode from high-performance fibers in the lightweight scenes of spacecraft structures, such as space tether, truss mesh deployable antenna, thermal knife holding and releasing device. The performance of high-performance organic fibers used in the aerospace industry, braided structures and applications of cordage in spacecraft structures were reviewed. The main problems existing in the application of braided cordages in spacecraft structures were analyzed and the creep and stress relaxation properties of braided cordages are the key factors affecting the structural stability of spacecraft during long-term service. Then, the effects of materials, environmental conditions, and load levels on the creep and stress relaxation behavior of braided cordages were introduced. Finally, some problems existed in the current researches were pointed out, and the future research directions were proposed in view of these problems. It is expected that this work would provide a reference for the development of high-performance, high-stability, adjustable and controllable braided cordages for aerospace applications.

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    Classification and recognition of young males' neck-shoulder shape based on 2-D photos
    ZHANG Jian, XU Kaiyi, ZHAO Songling, GU Bingfei
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (05): 143-149.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210506507
    Abstract184)   HTML13)    PDF(pc) (4763KB)(46)       Save

    In order to explore the classification of the neck and shoulder shape of young men and to facilitate the automatic recognition based on 2-D photos, this study obtained the point cloud data of 180 male college students using a three-dimensional body scanner, and measured 22 characteristic parameters relating to the male neck and shoulder shape. According to the analysis of the coefficient of variation, the forward angle, back angle, shoulder oblique angle, neck-to-shoulder width ratio, and neck transverse sagittal diameter ratio were selected as cluster analysis variables to classify the neck and shoulder shapes for establishing the discriminant rules. Combining the 2-D photos of the human body to extract the parameters required for body type classification, an automatic recognition system for the shape of the neck-shoulders was constructed. The results show that the neck-shoulder shape of young men can be divided into three types, namely round-neck-drop-shoulder, forward-round-neck and wide-neck-straight-body. The discrimination accuracy rate of the constructed form automatic recognition system reached 93.33%, indicating that this method is effective and feasible, and can meet the needs of consumers' personalized customization.

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    Preparation of binary thermochromic microcapsules and application in smart textiles
    WANG Chengcheng, GONG Xiaodan, WANG Zhen, MA Qunwang, ZHANG Liping, FU Shaohai
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (05): 38-42.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211108105
    Abstract184)   HTML24)    PDF(pc) (5062KB)(279)       Save

    Aiming at large temperature range and serious hysteresis of the temperature-response microcapsules, a fast response binary thermochromic complex was prepared by mixing fluorane dye with amide group and hexadecanol uniformly. The apparent morphology of the highly sensitive thermochromic microcapsules were studied by scanning electron microscope, transmission electron microscope and thermogravimetric analyzer. Color changing smart textiles were developed with strong temperature sensitivity, and the morphology characteristics of smart textiles and color performance were studied. The results show that the size of the prepared highly sensitive thermosensitive color-changing microcapsules is 1 μm, and the core material load was about 65%, with satisfactory thermal stability. The prepared smart textiles with high sensitivity and temperature change have bright color, and the color change range is 40-42 ℃. The color change lag of heating and cooling process is less than 1 ℃ and the color change sensitivity is high.

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    Quality and performance of biomass fiber/pineapple leaf fiber multi-component blended yarn
    MIN Xiaobao, PAN Zhijuan
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (01): 74-79.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210908806
    Abstract183)   HTML12)    PDF(pc) (4827KB)(58)       Save

    Pineapple leaf fibers are thick, long, straight, and with branches on the surface, leading to poor quality of pure spun yarn. In order to improve its spinnability, the silk spinning system was employed to blend pineapple leaf fiber with some biomass fibers to prepare 16.7 tex×2 two-component yarns and 14.3 tex×2 three-component yarns, the selected biomass fibers including spun silk, wool, chitosan fiber, Lyocell fiber and polylactic acid (PLA) fiber. The mechanical properties, evenness and hairiness of the yarns were evaluated, and the results show that the spun yarns have high breaking strength, good evenness and low hairiness, which can be used to develop medium to high grade woven fabrics and can be applied to clothing making. Among the two-component blended yarns, the performance of pineapple leaf fiber/spun silk (mass ratio:85∶15) is the best, with breaking strength being(21.9±2.3)cN/tex, the hairiness value 3.61 mm/cm, and the evenness CV value 18.05%. Among the three-component blended yarns, the performance of pineapple leaf fiber/spun silk/Lyocell fiber (mass ratio:50∶30∶20) is the best, whose breaking strength is(19.9±1.3)cN/tex, the hairiness value 3.26 mm/cm, and the evenness CV value 14.03%.

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    Biomass-derived magnetic carbon composites towards microwave absorption
    QIANG Rong, FENG Shuaibo, LI Wanying, YIN Linzhi, MA Qian, CHEN Bowen, CHEN Yi
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (01): 21-27.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210910807
    Abstract182)   HTML8)    PDF(pc) (4926KB)(70)       Save

    In response to the national carbon neutrality and carbon emission peak target and in order to solve the potential preparation problem of magnetic carbon composite, it proposed a new biomass-derived strategy for the preparation of carbon-based microwave absorption composites. The iron/mushroom precursor was obtained by absorbing iron ions, where mushrooms acted as the raw material and iron salt severed as metal source. The Fe/Fe4N/C composites were acquired by controlled high-temperature pyrolysis, and the phase structure, morphology, thermal stability, magnetic stability, physiochemical properties and microwave absorption performance of composites were analyzed and discussed. It was proved that the increased pyrolysis temperature would improve the crystallinity of magnetic nanoparticles, and that the increases in Fe4N content would induce the decrease of coercivity and saturation magnetization simultaneously. The high pyrolysis temperature was conductive to the transformation from amorphous carbon to microcrystalline graphite,inducing the increased degree of graphitization degree of carbon components. The Fe/Fe4N/C composite pyrolyzed at 700 ℃ was regarded as the best microwave absorber. With a composite thickness being 4 mm, the effective bandwidth of microwave that could be absorbed reached to 6.64 GHz, from 4.00 to 10.64 GHz. The appropriate impedance matching and synergistic enhancement of dielectric loss and magnetic loss were considered to be responsible for the intensified microwave absorption. It is believed that the research provides a reference for the preparation of magnetic carbon microwave absorbers, and promotes the popularization and application of biomass-derived method.

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    Preparation and properties of polyester/silica/orange active ingredient fiber
    HUANG Xiaohua, ZHOU Jialiang, CHI Shan, LIU Yanming, FU Guangwei, HU Zexu, XIANG Hengxue, ZHU Meifang
    Journal of Textile Research    2021, 42 (12): 21-27.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210201908
    Abstract182)   HTML16)    PDF(pc) (5280KB)(73)       Save

    In order to solve the problem of functional degradation caused by the loss of natural active ingredients in the production process of polyester fibers, the molecular-nesting technology was independently developed. The orange active ingredients obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction was loaded into mesoporous silica nanoparticles (MSNs) carrier to obtain the polyester/silica/orange active ingre-dient (PET/SiO2/O) fiber with good antibacterial and antiviral effects. The morphology, chemical structure, mechanical properties, active ingredient content, antibacterial and antiviral properties of the modified fiber were characterized and analyzed. The results show that the size, specific surface area and average pore diameter of the achieved MSNs are (100±5) nm, 729.7 m2/g and 2.55 nm, respectively, and the fracture strength of PET/SiO2/O fiber is 3.22 cN/dtex. The content of orange active ingredient naringin in PET/SiO2/O fiber is (0.41±0.05) mg/kg, the antibacterial rate is above 91%, and the antiviral rate is above 99%, which are significantly better than that of the common polyester fibers (p<0.01).

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    Design principle and method for gradient weft-backed structure with 2∶1 weft arrangement
    PENG Xi, TU Yongjian, ZHOU Jiu
    Journal of Textile Research    2021, 42 (12): 63-69.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210200508
    Abstract180)   HTML9)    PDF(pc) (4363KB)(53)       Save

    In order to inherit and develop the ancient Chinese brocade, a design principle and method for digital jacquard weaving combining weft-backed structures based on a 2∶1 weft arrangement with shadow weaves was proposed by analyzing the structural characteristics and technical limitations of ground-knot-type brocade using the weft-backed structure. Based on the fact that the fabric surface was intended to display colored weft yarns B and A, the design was divided into two parts. For these two types of covering principles, face and back weaves and corresponding backed points were determined, for which the displacement method and the superposition screening method were used to design the face weave. Then, the two combined weave databases were designed by shadow strengthening method. Feasibility and effect of the method were verified through practical design and manufacture. The results show that this method improves the color expression ability of the fabric. In addition, it demonstrated that two types of gradient color effects with the weft A as main and the weft B as secondary gradient color could be achieved on the same fabric. It provides reference for digital innovative design for the traditional jacquard fabrics.

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    Decision of carbon emission-reduction in garment industry under carbon trading and consumption subsidy
    ZHENG Lu, ZHANG Mingxia, HU Jueliang, HAN Shuguang
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (01): 193-200.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210910508
    Abstract180)   HTML6)    PDF(pc) (5743KB)(70)       Save

    With the promotion of the "dual carbon" target, the national carbon trade market has been launched without causing much attention. In order to make clothing enterprises better respond to carbon trading policy, the clothing closed-loop supply chain model was established, which was composed of raw material suppliers, manufacturers, retailers and recyclers. The impacts of government subsidies to consumers of remanufactured garment and manufacturers' investment in carbon emission reduction on the development of clothing industry, profits of supply chain members and the total supply chain carbon emission were analyzed and discussed. The study shows that the clothing enterprises could not sustain for a long time with the rise of carbon trading price without committing to emission reduction and without subsidies. The situation that only manufacturers invest in emission reduction is conducive to increasing the demand for traditional clothing and remanufactured clothing and the profits of supply chain members, but it also stimulates carbon emission. When emission reduction is combined with subsidy, the consumption subsidy of remanufactured clothing can improve the optimal emission reduction rate of manufacturers, enhance the competitive advantage of remanufactured garment, and can also reduce the total supply chain carbon emission. The research can provide reference for garment manufacturers' carbon emission reduction investment decision and government policy making under carbon trading.

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