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Table of Content

    15 October 2025, Volume 46 Issue 10
        
    • Fiber Materials
      Simulation of devolatilization and viscosity increase reaction of polyamide 6 falling film for direct melt spinning
      CHEN Shichang, LOU Shunyue, CHEN Wenxing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  1-10.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20241202201
      Abstract ( 128 )   HTML ( 27 )   PDF (7617KB) ( 107 )   Save
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      Objective In view of the current situation of long chip spinning production process and high energy consumption in the production of polyamide 6(PA6), a process simulation analysis was conducted on the preparation of low-volatile polyamide 6 melt. By adding a falling film devolatilization reactor with vacuum facility after two-stage polymerization, multiple systems such as cooling granulation, hot water extraction, drying, solid phase adhesion and extrusion melting could be eliminated to realize the direct spinning of polyamide 6 fiber.

      Method The outlet data of polyamide 6 two-stage VK tube established in Polymer Plus is taken as the inlet parameter of the falling film devolatilization reactor. The mathematical model established according to reaction kinetics, mass transfer and material balance is essentially a set of partial differential equations. MatLab is used to calculate the devolatilization and viscosity increase process of the falling film devolatilization reactor. When the reactor operation reaches a steady state, the concentration of each component in the reactor no longer changes with the change of time, and the concentration of the main component at the liquid phase outlet of the devolatilizing reactor and related technical indicators are obtained.

      Results The model investigated the effects of different melt feed parameters, reaction temperature, pressure and other factors on the number average molecular weight (Mn), extractable content and end group concentration during the viscosity increasing process of falling film reactor. The results showed that high temperature and low pressure improved the performance of the product, but too low pressure caused costs increase for industrial production, making it more difficult to control. The by-products in high-temperature products tended to increase, which is not conducive to subsequent spinning. The results suggested that when the relative viscosity (ηr) of inlet melt was increased, the ηr of polymer increased slowly with the increase of reactor length, and the contents of monomer caprolactam (mCPL) and oligomer (CO) decreased gradually. When the reaction temperature of the falling film reactor was increased, the Mn of polyamide 6 melt gradually increased, while mCPL and CO gradually decreased. When the pressure of the reactor was reduced, the Mn gradually increased, and the mCPL and CO gradually decreased. Therefore, the process parameters of 260 ℃ and 200 Pa were selected to obtain a high viscosity polymer with a Mn of 21 709 g/mol, monomer content (mCPL) of 0.230%, and oligomer content (CO) of 0.115%.

      Conclusion When the ηr of inlet material increases, the ηr of melt decreases with the increase of falling film flow distance, and the mCPL and CO decrease gradually. After the melt with a ηr of 2.35 passes through the falling film devolatilization reactor, its ηr can be increased to 3.1. The effects of reaction temperature, pressure and other conditions on polymer number, Mn, ηr, mCPL, CO and end group concentration in falling film devolatilization reactor were studied. With the increase of reaction temperature, the Mn of polymers in a certain range increased linearly, the mCPL decreased from 7.062% to 0.230%, the CO decreased from 0.710% to 0.115%, and the end group concentration([NH2] and [COOH]) also decreased gradually. By controlling the pressure of the falling film devolatilization reactor, it is shown that the relative viscosity of the polymer is improved at low pressure. Reduce the mCPL and CO in melt. By adjusting and controlling the inlet melt parameters of the falling film devolatilization reactor, high quality PA6 melt can be obtained under suitable devolatilization reaction temperature and vacuum degree. The research results are conducive to the development of direct spinning technology of PA6 melt.

      Preparation of polypropylene/polybutylene terephthalate blend fibers and their rheological and thermal properties
      SUN Yanyan, ZHANG Shitao, LIU Heng, LI Mingyuan, CAI Zhengguo, SUN Junfen, CHEN Long
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  11-18.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250104601
      Abstract ( 93 )   HTML ( 12 )   PDF (8640KB) ( 46 )   Save
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      Objective Polypropylene (PP) fibers are characterized by their low density (0.91 g/cm3) and superior thermal insulation properties, with a thermal insulation efficiency of up to 36.49%. Polybutylene terephthalate(PBT) fibers exhibit excellent elasticity, bending recovery, and a higher elastic recovery rate compared to polyester fibers. Moreover, PBT fibers possess a soft, fluffy texture and demonstrate good moisture absorption capabilities. To investigate the morphological structure of PP/PBT blend fibers produced via melt spinning using polypropylene and polybutylene terephthalate blend chips with varying blending ratios, the mass fractions of PBT added were set at 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25%, and 30%, respectively.

      Method After uniformly mixing the PP and PBT slices, a twin-screw extruder is utilized for blending and granulation. Subsequently, a capillary rheometer is employed to prepare the blended fibers with varying component ratios. The fibers are then subjected to ultrasonic vibration and drying using an ultrasonic instrument, resulting in fibrillated blended fibers. By exploiting the incompatibility and viscosity differences between the two components, the dispersed phase forms a network of microfibers within the continuous phase.

      Results In this study, a rotational rheometer is employed to investigate the steady-state rheological properties of polymer melts under varying temperature conditions. Both materials exhibit typical shear-thinning characteristics, with the shear viscosity of the melt decreasing as temperature increases. Fitting analysis based on the Carreau model is conducted to determine the zero shear viscosity values of these two raw materials. The zero shear viscosity ratios of PP and PBT melts at different temperatures are presented. The n values for the PP melt are all less than 1, indicating significant non-Newtonian characteristics. Under varying shear rates, the apparent viscosity of the PP melt undergoes considerable changes. However, the n value does not vary significantly with temperature, suggesting that temperature has a relatively minor effect on the apparent viscosity of PP. It can be concluded that the viscosity of PBT is lower than that of PP under the same testing conditions, with all zero shear viscosity ratios for the system being less than 1. PP displays a distinct endothermic peak at 156 ℃, corresponding to its melting temperature, while the endothermic peak of PBT occurs at 220 ℃, indicating its melting temperature. Additionally, it is found that the blend system is incompatible. The initial decomposition temperature of PP is 350 ℃, reaching the decomposition endpoint at 420 ℃, whereas PBT has an initial decomposition temperature of 390 ℃ and a termination decomposition temperature of 430 ℃. As the proportion of system components increases, the groove structure on the fiber surface becomes increasingly pronounced. When the PBT mass fraction reaches 30%, microfiber delamination occurs on the fiber surface, forming a unique structure resembling goose down. Through ultrasonic vibration treatment of fibers, it is observed that the surface of blended fibers with a PBT mass fraction below 30% did not undergo significant changes. However, a substantial number of microfibers adhered to the surface of PP/PBT fibers with a 30% PBT content, resulting in a fiber morphology resembling that of goose down.

      Conclusion In this research, the PP/PBT blend fibers were prepared using the melt spinning method. The preparation process parameters for the PP/PBT blend fibers were optimized by varying the component ratio, leading to a fiber surface characterized by a groove-like and microfiber structure. The PP/PBT blend fibers spun at a temperature of 250 ℃ demonstrated the best performance. As the dispersed phase component ratio increased, the groove-like structure became more pronounced. The most distinct groove-like structure and a considerable quantity of microfibers were observed with a PBT content of 30%. Following further processing of the PP/PBT blend fibers with ultrasound, a significant amount of PBT microfibers emerged, resulting in a goose-down-like fiber morphology.

      Preparation and properties of Lyocell fiber with silicon-containing modified phosphorus-nitrogen flame retardant
      GAO Min, CHENG Chunzu, XU Zhongkai, ZHAO Qingbo, ZHANG Dong, DAI Xinxin
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  19-29.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250201001
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      Objective Lyocell fiber is a green and environmentally regenerable cellulose fiber, but has high flammability and high flame propagation. With wide application of Lyocell fibers in the fields of textile materials, nonwoven materials and high-performance filler materials, the potential danger of fire is increasing, which is a serious threat to the safety of people's lives and properties. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare flame retardant Lyocell fibers to slow down their thermal decomposition process and reduce their flammability.

      Method Silicon-containing modified phosphorus-nitrogen flame retardant Si-DDPON was prepared by modifying 1,2-bis(2-oxo-5,5-dimethyl-1,3,2-dioxyphosphacyclohexy-2-imino)ethane(DDPON)with tetraethylorthosilicate (TEOS), and then Si-DDPON was used to prepare flame retardant Lyocell fibers by physical blending process. The effects of Si-DDPON on the micro morphology, thermal properties, flame retardant properties and mechanical properties of Lyocell fibers were characterized and analyzed by using scanning electron microscope, thermogravimetric analyzer, limiting oxygen index and mechanical properties tests. The pyrolysis gas and the char morphology of the Lyocell fibers were analyzed by the thermogravimetric-infrared spectroscopy and Raman spectroscopy, and the retardant mechanism was explored.

      Results After modified by TEOS, the water contact angle of DDPON was increased from (44.5°±0.9°) to (128°±2.7°), and the water solubility was reduced from 0.86 g/(100 gH2O) to 0.001 9 g/(100 gH2O) at 98 ℃, showing excellent hydrophobicity and water resistance. Scanning electron microscopy and X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy results showed that a small amount of flame retardant particles were attached to the surface of Lyocell fibers after the addition of Si-DDPON. Scanning electron microscopy and energy dispersive spectrometer results showed that the fiber cross-section was uniformly distributed by Si-DDPON. Thermogravimetric experiments demonstrated that the maximum thermal degradation temperature of Lyocell fiber was reduced from 357.4 ℃ to 316.0 ℃, and the amount of residual carbon was increased from 6.1% to 19.6% at 800 ℃ when Si-DDPON with a mass fraction of 35% was added, indicating that the thermal stability of the Lyocell fibers had been greatly improved. Limiting oxygen index(LOI) results indicated that the LOI value of Lyocell fibers increased from 18.0% to 28.5% when the mass fraction of Si-DDPON was 35%, and the LOI value of the fibers remained at 28% after 20 washing cycles, which showed a good performance of water washing resistance. The results of mechanical property tests showed that the mechanical properties of Lyocell fibers were reduced by the addition of Si-DDPON. However, the dry breaking strengths and wet breaking strengths of 35%Si-DDPON-Lyocell fibers were 2.87 cN/dtex and 2.46 cN/dtex, respectively, which retained 75.5% and 75.7% of the pure Lyocell fibers. The analysis of flame retardant mechanism demonstrated that Si-DDPON can improve the flame retardancy of Lyocell fibers by acting on both gas phase and condensed phase. In the gas phase, Si-DDPON inhibited the generation of flammable gas products and promoted the release of non-flammable gas during the combustion process of Lyocell fibers, whereas in the condensed phase, Si-DDPON promoted the formation of a stable expanded char layer and increased the degree of graphitization of the carbon layer, which improved the flame retardant performance of Lyocell fibers.

      Conclusion Compared with pure Lyocell fibers, the thermal stability and flame retardant effects of Si-DDPON-Lyocell fibers were significantly improved. When the total amount of Si-DDPON was 35%, the maximum thermal degradation temperature of Lyocell fibers decreased from 357.4 ℃ to 316.0 ℃, the char residue increased by 2.2 times at 800 ℃, and the LOI value of Lyocell fibers rose from 18.0% to 28.5%. Moreover, the LOI value of Si-DDPON-Lyocell fibers remaind at 28.0% after 20 washing cycles, demonstrating excellent wash durability. During the combustion process of Si-DDPON-Lyocell fibers, Si-DDPON acts as a gas-phase flame retardant by reducing the amount of combustible gases and releasing non-combustible gases. Meanwhile, Si-DDPON promots the formation of dense, continuous silicon-containing expanded carbon layer in the condensed phase, both of which work together to enhance the flame retardancy of Lyocell fibers.

      Preparation and performance of antibacterial nanofiber membrane loaded with magnolol
      WU Leran, WU Nihuan, LI Lingeng, ZHONG Yi, CHEN Hongpeng, TANG Nan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  30-38.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250200301
      Abstract ( 49 )   HTML ( 7 )   PDF (10999KB) ( 21 )   Save
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      Objective To overcome the limitations of traditional wound dressings such as poor antibacterial function and the need for frequent replacement, it was necessary to develop innovative multifunctional wound dressings. In this study, a nanofiber membrane loaded with magnolol (MAG) was fabricated using electrospinning technology. The membrane's morphology, wettability, water vapor transmission rate, mechanical properties, drug release, biocompatibility, hemocompatibility, antioxidant activity and antibacterial efficacy were systematically evaluated to explore its potential application as a wound dressing.

      Method MAG was dissolved in varying mass ratios of zein/gelatin (Zein/Gel) solutions to prepare precursor solutions for electrospinning. Zein/Gel/MAG composite nanofiber membranes were then fabricated. The nanofibers' microstructure, chemical composition, and wettability were characterized using scanning electron microscopy, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) and contact angle measurements. The effects of different Zein/Gel mass ratios on water vapor transmission rate, mechanical properties, MAG release, cytotoxicity, hemocompatibility, antioxidant activity and antibacterial efficacy were also investigated.

      Results The fabricated Zein/Gel/MAG nanofiber membranes displayed a smooth surface without obvious bead formation or adhesion, and the nanofiber diameter decreased as the mass proportion of Gel in the spinning solution declined. FT-IR analysis confirmed the presence of Zein, Gel and MAG in the nanofibers. Water contact angle measurements indicated that the nanofiber membranes were hydrophobic, with increasing hydrophobicity accompanying the reduction in the mass proportion of Gel, reaching a maximum value of (116.50± 9.24)°. All nanofiber membranes demonstrated water vapor transmission rates above (2 527.42±262.94) g/(m2·d), reaching a maximum value of (2 805.50±65.17) g/(m2·d).The cumulative release of MAG from nanofiber membranes was strongly correlated with the mass proportion of Gel. Furthermore, the Zein/Gel/MAG nanofiber membranes exhibited no significant cytotoxicity to L929 cells and hemolysis rates of less than 2%. The scavenging rates for 1,1-diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazine free radical were in the range of(32.93±2.22)% to (53.03±8.32)%. The maximum widths of bacteriostatic circle for S.aureus and E.coli were (1.89±0.62) mm and (1.80±0.06) mm, respectively.

      Conclusion The Zein/Gel/MAG nanofiber membranes were successfully prepared via electrospinning. These membranes exhibited excellent water vapor transmission rate, biocompatibility and hemocompatibility, as well as remarkable antioxidant activity. Specially, the obvious antibacterial efficacies against S.aureus and E.coli were observed. Therefore, the Zein/Gel/MAG nanofiber membrane had significant potential prospect for wound dressings.

      Melt-blown rapid thermal exchange technology enabled construction of lightweight highly elastic thermal insulation batts with performance modulation
      GUO Yanna, HUANG Qiwei, XU Jinsheng, DING Chengfeng, HUANG Wensheng, LI Kai, DING Bin, YU Jianyong, WANG Xianfeng
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  39-45.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250202801
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      Objective Low-temperature environments pose significant risks to human health, necessitating advanced thermal insulation materials to maintain body temperature. Melt-blown ultra-fine fiber-based materials, characterized by small pore size and high porosity, hold great potential for thermal insulation applications. However, conventional melt-blown materials suffer from complex processing, poor mechanical stability, and insufficient thermal performance. Therefore, developing a simplified method to fabricate melt-blown insulation materials with balanced mechanical properties and excellent thermal insulation is critical.

      Method Polypropylene (PP)-based lightweight elastic fiber batts were produced via melt-blown nonwoven technology. A novel approach was employed to control the melt-environment heat exchange rate by adjusting hot-air temperature (140-200 ℃) during processing, enabling the fabrication of batts with tunable loftiness. The influence of temperature on fiber morphology, crystallinity, mechanical resi-lience, and thermal insulation was systematically studied. This strategy allowed analysis between process parameters and structural and functional properties, providing a scalable route for optimizing insulation materials.

      Results The material exhibited a three-dimensional lofted structure fabricated in a single step, with an average pore size of 11.2 μm, porosity of 99.13%, and ultra-low bulk density of 13.40 mg/cm3. Reduced hot-air temperature during processing slowed fiber crystallization, yielding fibers with a fine diameter of 2.88 μm and enhanced crystallinity (47.21%). Mechanically, the batt demonstrated high fracture stress (1 200 Pa) and elongation at break, retaining over 85% of its initial compressive stress after 500 compression cycles at 50% strain, highlighting exceptional fatigue resistance. Thermally, a 4-mm-thick sample (70 g/m2) achieved a low thermal conductivity of 25.50 mW/(m·K), a clo value of 2.02, and thermal resistance of 0.31 m2·K/W, confirming its superior insulation performance across extreme conditions.

      Conclusion This study shows that lowering hot-air temperature during melt-blown processing creates coarser fibers with higher crystallinity, and thicker and more porous batts, and improves both mechanical strength and thermal insulation. Optimal parameters allow the production of lightweight yet durable insulation with excellent heat resistance, advancing melt-blown technology. These insights guide the design of high-performance thermal insulation for extreme environments.

      Rapid detection method for unwashed and inadequately washed feather and down
      ZHOU Xiaoye, CAO Ailing, SU Rina, SHI Wenjun, ZHAO Xianmei, DU Dasheng, CAI Luyun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  46-53.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250203701
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      Objective The global trade of substandard feather and down products, particularly those subjected to inadequate washing processes, poses significant challenges to customs inspection and epidemic prevention. Existing standards like GB/T 17685—2016 fail to address the identification of these substandard products, which lack sufficient hygiene and structural stability. This study aimed to establish a rapid, reliable detection method based on differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) to distinguish unwashed and inadequately washed feather and down by characterizing heat-induced keratin conformational changes, thereby providing technical support for regulatory standard revisions.

      Method Thermogravimetry (TG), X-Ray Diffraction (XRD), Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy (FT-IR) and differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) were employed to compare the thermal stability of feather and down samples. For sample preparation, unwashed samples (white/grey duck feather and down) were subjected to natural air-drying or heat treatments (80-160 ℃ for 30 min). TG was employed to quantify the mass loss across 30-800 ℃ (10 ℃/min, N2 atmosphere) for unwashed and heat-treated (80-160 ℃, 30 min) white/grey duck feather/down. XRD (5°-25°, 5(°)/min) and FT-IR (4 000-400 cm-1, 4 cm-1 resolution) results were examined to analyze the crystal structure evolution and secondary structural transitions (β-sheet, α-helix, random loops). As the core technique for capturing thermal behavior details, DSC (5 ℃/min to 550 ℃, N2 flow) played a critical role in establishing distinct thermal fingerprints for all 24 sample groups (4 types and 6 treatments), focusing on endothermic peak variations correlated with keratin denaturation. Data were processed using NETZSCH Proteus and Origin 2022, with statistical validation of structural parameters.

      Results TG analysis revealed three-phase decomposition of feather and down, which are moisture evapora-tion (30-200 ℃), keratin degradation (200-400 ℃), and residual decomposition (400-800° C). For structural transitions, XRD revealed that 120 ℃ treatment increased α-helix and β-sheet diffraction intensity in white feather, while 160 ℃ reduced α-helix and β-sheet peaks in grey feather. FT-IR deconvolution showed that inadequate washing elevated β-sheet content and eliminated random loops, confirming molecular rearrangement into stable hydrogen-bonded networks. DSC results indicated that unwashed samples exhibited broad moisture evaporation peaks at (83.2-91.7)℃. After heat treatment, peak positions shifted or disappeared. 80-140 ℃ treatments induced distinct β-sheet denaturation peaks within 170-220 ℃. Specifically, 160 ℃ treatment caused structural disorder, reducing enthalpy and peak broadening. Meanwhile, grey feather displayed similar trends but varied in peak intensity due to structural differences.

      Conclusion In this study, the thermochemical properties of inadequately washed and unwashed feather/down were investigated through TG, XRD, FT-IR, and DSC analysis. The study concluded that heat treatment is a key factor affecting the thermal properties of down keratin. The DSC results showed that the DSC curves of inadequately washed and unwashed feather/down are different, and unwashed and inadequately washed feather/down can be distinguished by the characteristic peaks on the DSC curves. The DSC method effectively distinguishes unwashed and inadequately washed feather/down based on thermal transition differences. This method requires minimal sample preparation (10 mg) and provides results within 1 h, offering a rapid and reliable solution for customs inspection and quality control. The findings support the revision of GB/T 17685—2016 to include thermal analysis criteria, enhancing the regulation of substandard products in the global down industry.

      Textile Engineering
      Mechanism and experimental study of short fiber elimination during combing process
      WANG Xuzhen, REN Jiazhi, JIA Guoxin, YANG Tianqi, LI Jiping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  54-61.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250103601
      Abstract ( 36 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (6502KB) ( 14 )   Save
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      Objective The existing combing theory and research literature do not involve the exclusion rate of fibers of different lengths and its change pattern in the combing process. In order to study the mechanism of the exclusion of different fiber lengths during combing, the concept of "the number of effective combing times" was put forward to provide theoretical and practical basis for the reasonable formulation of combing process parameters and accurate control of the falling rate of different fiber lengths.

      Method Based on the movement of fibers during the carding and separation and joining processes of the cotton comber cylinder, the concept of effective carding times of the comber's waste fibers was proposed, and a mathematical model of the relationship between the effective carding times of the waste fibers and parameters such as fiber length, separation distance, and feed length was established. Using Xinjiang upland cotton, combed cotton laps were made through the normal spinning process, and comber experiments were conducted on the FAZY600 comber. The comber waste rate was tested, and the AFIS PRO 2 single fiber tester was used to test the percentage of different fiber lengths in the cotton laps and waste fibers. The exclusion rates of various fiber lengths for the four experimental schemes were calculated. The exclusion rates of various fiber lengths and their variation rules under different comber process parameters such as waste fiber distance, feed length, and feed method were analyzed.

      Results Through combing experiments of four different process schemes, the pattern of exclusion of different fiber lengths was obtained, and the following experimental results were obtained. The greater the number of effective carding times led to greater probability of the fiber being caught by the tin during the combing process. The number of effective carding times decreased with the increase of fiber length, that is, the longer the fiber is, the lower the probability of falling during the carding process. When the fiber length was greater than the fiber bundle length outside the mouth of the clamp plate, the probability of the fiber being caught by the tin in the carding process became less. Reducing the feed length, increasing the spacing of the noil and using the backward feed all increased the effective carding times of the noil, thus increasing the probability of the fiber falling during the carding process of the tin forest. During the combing process, the fiber exclusion rate decreased with the increase of fiber length, but the decrease of the fiber exclusion rate was different in different length sections, with a slow decrease in the 4-12 mm section and rapid decrease in the 12-18 mm range. The fiber length in the section above 18 mm slowly decreased to zero. Reducing the feed length significantly improved the exclusion rate of 4-12 mm fiber, but has little effect on the exclusion rate of fibers longer than 12 mm. The fiber exclusion rate of 4-20 mm section was significantly improved by increasing the spacing of noil or using backward feeding.

      Conclusion During combing, the exclusion rate of different fiber lengths decreased with the increase of fiber length, with three obvious characteristics of fiber exclusion rate, i.e. slow decrease for fiber lengths of 4 mm to 12 mm, rapid decrease in the 12 mm to 18 mm fiber length range, and zero approaching decrease when the fiber length is greater than 18 mm. When the feed length was reduced, the fiber exclusion rate increased significantly when the fiber length is from 4mm to 12 mm, while the fiber exclusion rate increases little when the fiber length is above 12 mm. The fiber exclusion rate in the 4 mm to 20 mm section is significantly increased by using backfeed or increasing the spacing of the noil.

      Yarn consumption model for warp-knitted jacquard fabrics with creel warp supply
      ZHANG Yanting, ZHANG Jing, JIANG Gaoming, CONG Honglian, ZHANG Aijun, LIU Haisang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  62-68.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250403601
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      Objective Yarn packages on a creel typically employ negative warp feeding, allowing for flexible yarn supply adjustments according to the demands of jacquard patterns during the warp knitting process, which enables the manufacture of fabrics with complex pattern designs. However, due to the complexity of jacquard organization and the variability of pattern design in warp knitting the jacquard fabrics, there is currently a lack of effective methods to calculate the yarn consumption of jacquard warp yarns supplied from the warp knitting creel. This deficiency results in a waste of manpower and material resources in jacquard yarn procurement. Therefore, predicting the consumption of warp yarns in warp knitting jacquard fabrics can effectively help textile enterprises reduce costs and increase efficiency.

      Method The aim of this study is to construct a jacquard yarn consumption prediction model for warp knitting jacquard fabrics. Through an in-depth analysis of the warp knitted jacquard fabrics, a mathematical model is established to describe the characteristics of their structural units. Based on the analysis of the knitting patterns of these structural units, a fabric geometric model is proposed to calculate the yarn length of the structural units by incorporating actual production process parameters. The prediction model for jacquard yarn consumption is constructed to calculate the yarn consumption for warp knitting jacquard fabrics and is put on trial for practical production.

      Results In this paper, by analyzing the structural characteristics and jacquard decomposition path of warp knitted jacquard fabrics, a classification method for identifying structural unit is proposed based on the jacquard yarn movement matrix. The jacquard pattern is categorized into five types of structural units to achieve the quantitative characterization and classification statistics. The geometrical model of the structural unit in a three-dimensional Cartesian coordinate system is constructed by combining the actual morphology of the structural unit. The calculation formula for the length of the loop trunk and the extension line is derived, taking into account of the process parameters such as the machine gauge, the diameter of the yarn, and the distance of the detangling plate. Combining the statistical model of the structural unit with the length model of the structural unit, a prediction model for the yarn consumption in warp knitted jacquard fabric is proposed, realizing the calculation of the total yarn consumption of jacquard yarns within the pattern unit. To verify the reliability of the model, a warp knitted jacquard fabric was knitted on a double needle-bed jacquard warp knitting machine from Fujian UNIC Machinery Co., Ltd. The jacquard raw material consumption for making the fabric sample was predicted using the proposed model, and the error between the predicted value and the measured value was less than 5%, which is within a reasonable range.

      Conclusion This paper categorizes jacquard patterns into six types of structural units and derives the calculation formula for the length of the loop trunk and the extension line, taking into account of the process parameters such as the machine gauge, the diameter of the yarn, and the distance of the detangling plate. By combining the statistical model of the structural unit with the length model of the structural unit, a prediction model for the yarn consumption for making warp knitted jacquard fabrics is proposed, enabling the calculation of the total yarn consumption of jacquard yarns within the pattern cycle. The prediction error of the model on actual fabric is 4.3%, indicating that it can meet the accuracy demands of enterprise production. The application of this model can be used to provide textile enterprises with dynamic raw material demand predictions, optimize procurement plans, reduce inventory redundancy, and offer a theoretical basis for the intelligent tuning of process parameters.

      Influence of colored-weft proportion on juxtaposed color mixing in triple-weft full-display compound weaves
      XU Qing, HU Yili, YANG Zhuo, ZHOU Jiu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  69-78.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250105101
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      Objective In order to reveal the characteristics of color mixing and the relationship between the structure and the juxtaposed color characteristics of compound full-color structure with triple-weft, a color card was constructed and woven to systematically compare and analyze the fabric effects of different color ratio combinations. The relationship between color characteristics of the triple-weft juxtaposed color mixing and ratio of chromatic weft was clarified, and a predictive method model was provided, as an effort to provide a theoretical basis for the structural design and accurate color rendering of compound full-color structure with triple-weft.

      Method In this research, 16-end 3-step number sateen weave with the starting point of 1/8/14 were used as the basic organization to construct combination of three basic weaves with full-color weaves. The proportion of three groups of color developing weftwas controlled, reasonably design and weave the experimental weaving color card of red, yellow and blue color developing weft proportion combination, and explore the internal relationship between color developing weft proportion and color mixing characteristics. In addition, a fabric color mixing model was formed based on the rules, and the prediction method of fabric color mixing of compound full-color structure with triple-weft was defined, which was further verified by simulation.

      Results According to the scanning diagram of the gradient color card and the color phase ring, it was clear that seven main colors in the color gamut of three weft juxtaposed mixed colors, which were the three groups of weft primary colors, intermediate colors mixed with primary colors in pairs, and compound colors mixed with three groups of weft, formed a color phase closed loop. When there was a large difference in the weft float length of the three weft colors the main color was determined by the longest weft float length; whereas when the weft float lengths of three weft colors were similar, three-weft mixed color was not black in theory, but a brown. Through simulation and prediction, it was verified that in compound full-color structure with triple-weft, the complex color of warp and three-color weft was not able to display saturated black and white at the same time, in which case a group of black(white) warp or weft had to be added. With help of simulation, the hue ring model was constructed by using color gamut and color development theory of the color mixing characteristics of three latitude parallel display structure under compound full-color structure with triple-weft, providing the color configuration basis for pattern design of compound full-color structure with triple-weft fabric.

      Conclusion The results reveal that change of ratio of chromatic weft in any of the three groups of color developing weft will affect the color expression of juxtaposed color blending in compound full-color structure with triple-weft space and has the unique regularity of color blending in warp and weft interweaving structure. The results of this study provide further understanding of the color mixing model of compound full-color structure with triple-weft jacquard fabrics.

      3-D modeling of weft-knitted stereoscopic jacquard structure based on bump parameters
      YU Guanying, JIANG Gaoming, FANG Shuaijun, ZHENG Peixiao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  79-85.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250106101
      Abstract ( 42 )   HTML ( 6 )   PDF (9763KB) ( 23 )   Save
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      Objective Weft-knitted stereoscopic jacquard fabric is widely used in home textile such as mattress due to its excellent physical, mechanical, thermal, and moisture comfort properties. The study of bump structure is the foundation for computer simulation of fabrics and crucial for effectively predicting knitting results. The research on design methods and modeling techniques for jacquard fabricsattracted much attention, but the complex structure and challenges in simulating the three-dimensional (3-D) effects of weft-knitted stereoscopic jacquard fabrics pose serious difficulties for researchers, leaving limited references in the field of design and simulation technology for such fabrics. This study focuses on the design of four-color stereoscopic jacquard fabrics.

      Method Using the control variable method, an experimental plan was designed to calculate key parameters including total convexity, projection length, front convexity, and back convexity. The investigation emphasized the influence of connection point spacing, weft-lining yarn fineness, and vertical density ratios between front and back sides on these parameters. Fitting surfaces and functions were generated by comprehensively analyzing these three influencing factors. A 3-D bump model was subsequently established based on the derived functions and patterns.

      Results The progressive increase in convex values of different connection point shapes as the spacing between connection points gradually increases. Among these shapes, the overall growth trend of the diamond shape was relatively slow, because under the same spacing between connection points, the expandable space size of the weft-lining yarn exhibited the characteristics of scatter > square > diamond. The projection length of the surface was primarily determined by the spacing between the connection points. The projection length of different connection point shapes showed a relatively consistent growth trend with the increase in spacing and exhibied a linear relationship. The data results for different weft-lining fineness were plotted. The results indicated that under the same spacing between connection points, the thicker the lining yarn was the higher the overall trend of the convex value became. In the case of the same expandable space, a thicker lining yarn resulted in a higher content of lining yarn per unit volume. The interaction between the yarns caused them to bend and bulge in the middle of the unconstrained sections, thereby increasing the convex value. For the projection length, the differences among the three sets of results were relatively small, indicating that the influence of the fineness of the weft-lining yarn was minimal and could be neglected. When there was a difference in the longitudinal density between the front and back sides of the fabric, this difference would be projected onto the bump structure, resulting in an asymmetric bump structure, where the ratio of the front convex value to the back convex value was almost consistent with the longitudinal density ratio of the front and back sides. By comprehensively analyzing the influence of the connection point spacing and the fineness of the weft-lining yarns on the bump structure, and combining relevant data, a 3-D fitting surface was generated and the equation is presented.

      Conclusion Denser pattern connection areas reduce expandable space. Weft-lining yarn fineness directly affects structural filling volume, while longitudinal density ratios correspond to convexity ratios on both sides. This study calculates connection point spacing across pattern regions based on color information from pattern notations. By incorporating spacing and yarn fineness into the 3-D fitting surface function, front and back convexity values are derived. A 3-D bump model for weft-knitted stereoscopic jacquard fabric is developed using these data. This research elucidates the formation mechanism of such fabrics, establishes a theoretical foundation for fabric simulation, and provides methodological guidance for designing and simulating other bump-effect fabric structures.

      One-piece molding preparation of fabric-based sensors with honeycomb-structured dielectric layers and their properties
      ZHANG Hongxia, QI Fangxi, ZHAO Jing, XING Yi, LÜ Zhijia
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  86-94.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250201201
      Abstract ( 41 )   HTML ( 4 )   PDF (15623KB) ( 18 )   Save
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      Objective Fabric-based pressure sensors have unrivaled advantages, but there are several problems that limit their application in wearable electronics. First, the preparation method of capacitive sensors with multilayer structure cannot achieve the effect of one-piece molding. Second, the dielectric layer in fabric capacitive sensors is difficult to meet the effect of textile air and moisture permeability. Third, a single fabric sensor is not enough to accurately detect the spatial pressure/touch/strain distribution of the human body. Therefore, the research on high-performance one-piece fabric-based array sensors is of particularly importance.

      Method The dielectric layer of the fabric-based capacitive sensor adopts a unique three-dimensional(3-D) honeycomb weaving structure. The upper and lower layers are electrode layers, formed by interweaving conductive yarns as warp and weft to create a conductive network; the intermediate dielectric layer is woven with textile yarns and chemical fibers through a honeycomb-like organization to form a structure with interconnected pores, which can optimize the dielectric constant and enhance the response sensitivity. The three layers are connected using an integrated molding process: during weaving, interweaving yarns or special interweaving patterns are introduced to lock the three layers of yarns at the interweaving points, forming an overall structure without interface defects. This not only enhances the structural stability and durability but also avoids inter-layer slippage that interferes with the signal, meeting the precise monitoring requirements for flexible wearable scenarios.

      Results The fabric incorporates the use of texturized yarns for a fluffier and softer performance, giving the fabric excellent resilience, softness, breathability and moisture permeability, while enhancing the "compression-recovery" cyclic stability of the fabric capacitance sensor output signal. In terms of mechanical properties, the tensile stress of the 3-D honeycomb fabric gradually decreased with 10 cyclic tensile loading, which was attributed to the stress relaxation of the fabric when subjected to cyclic stress. On the washing test, the capacitance value of the fabric-based capacitive sensor showed overall decreasing after five washing cycles because the effects of detergent and water temperature. In addition, the fabric-based sensor maintained good air permeability (average air permeability being about 464.98 mm/s), and its excellent air permeability was attributed to the fact that the multilayer honeycomb structure of the fabric has fewer interweaving points, longer floating lengths, and larger gaps between the yarns that are favorable for air circulation. Meanwhile, this fabric-based capacitive sensor exhibits excellent bidirectional sensing performance, and maintains good durability and stability even after 2 000 cycles of stretching and compressing tests. After 2 000 "stretch-recovery" cycles, the maximum error was 6.53%. Under 2 000 cycles of "loading-unloading", the maximum difference in relative capacitance change rate was only 1.44%. A high sensitivity of 0.086 kPa-1 and a fast response time of <150 ms in the range of 0-10 kPa were achieved. The sensors were tested in three consecutive load/unload cycles at different loads (5, 10, 20 and 30 N) and showed good discrimination and stability at different load pressures.

      Conclusion Fabric-based capacitive sensors can be used to sense different complex body motions and monitor sensing, such as posture capture, limb bending, pressure monitoring, and so on, which validates their potential application in the field of smart health monitoring. Under two regular states of the human body (walking state and sitting up state), the fabric can distinguish the changing pattern of movement by the obvious change of capacitance signal. The fabric-based capacitive sensor maintains excellent stability and responsiveness during continuous finger(elbow) flexion and relaxation with different amplitudes or durations under a variety of regular bending motions(finger flexion and elbow flexion). It was tested as a sensor array to achieve a normal distribution of pressure for monitoring loads, and its application to a smart cushion showed good sensing response performance under different site pressures.

      3-D realistic modeling and parametric design of woven fabrics
      QIU Jun, LI Jijun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  95-102.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20241207601
      Abstract ( 45 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (11177KB) ( 14 )   Save
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      Objective Intelligent production of woven fabrics is one of the core directions of the transformation and upgrading of the textile industry. To improve the efficiency of woven fabric design, this paper proposes a simple and efficient parametric design method for woven fabrics. This method uses intuitive mathematical parameters to represent key parameters in the woven fabric design process and presents them through an easy-to-use interactive interface. A yarn-level modeling and simulation algorithm is also proposed to enable real-time preview of simulation results during parametric design.

      Method Firstly, the free modeling of tubular yarn model is realized through interactive design of cross-sectional geometry and derived universal three-dimensional transformation relationship. On this basis, a parametric multi-ply twisted yarn model is constructed with hairiness characteristics added. The twist is controlled by the ratio of pitch to yarn radius, and the hairiness density is controlled by the number of hairiness breakpoints and offset coefficient. Then, an interactive weave design paper interface is designed to describe and edit the fabric structure, and parametric control is implemented by the number of warp yarn cycles, the number of weft yarn cycles and the cycle unit. The ratio of yarn width and yarn gap is used to express the fabric porosity. A fabric modeling algorithm using these parameters is proposed, and an interactive design module is developed.

      Results On the one hand, different yarn modeling methods can present simulation effects with different appearances. The surface of tubular yarns looks smoother, and multi-strand yarns show more yarn details. The simulated structure of the runway-shaped yarn (approximated by a rectangular shape) produces a smoother surface, and the structure composed of yarns with an elliptical cross-section exhibits a noticeable difference in color at the yarn seams due to the large curvature variation. For the multi-strand yarn model, twist and hairiness are two very important simulation parameters. It is found that higher the twist leads to tighter and stiffer yarns, as for real yarns. The results also show that fabric strength and hairiness density are proportional to surface roughness. Research shows that fabric structure and porosity affect the fabric simulation effect. Different structures have a significant impact on the appearance of the fabric resulting in different simulation textures. Fabric porosity is derived from the yarn thickness and yarn spacing. The porosity of a fabric is characterized by the ratio of yarn thickness and yarn spacing. Simulation results using a twill weave structure show that the lower the porosity, the tighter the yarn arrangement and the smoother the illumination; this relationship is strongly correlated with the fabric's structure. Based on the implementation of these modeling and simulation algorithms and the introduction of parametric design, a lightweight woven fabric design module was developed. This interactive interface utilizes a grid-based interface to design the structure, color, and appearance, enabling real-time simulation and rendering. This parametric design approach offers the advantages of simplicity and efficiency. The resulting design module is easy to use, exhibits a strong sense of realism in simulation results, and exhibits good portability.

      Conclusion This paper introduces parametric design into woven fabric design and establishes a yarn-level three-dimensional fabric model to improve the realism of the simulation effect. In addition to design efficiency, the portability of design tools is also of great significance for the intelligent production of woven fabrics, and modular tools are also highly scalable. Yarn-level woven fabric simulation can reflect rich model details and is more realistic. Woven fabrics with different organizational structures reflect different textures. Through the combination of parameters in different dimensions, various real materials can be simulated to produce highly realistic visual effects. This is of great significance to fields such as clothing CAD and realistic rendering, and can be used as another choice for the physical material of woven fabric models. The portability of the design method in this paper can bring a broad application space.

      Influence of warp and weft tightness ratio on tensile properties of 3-D shallow angle-interlock woven composites
      GUO Yanwen, XIA Rui, HUANG Xiaomei, CHEN Hongxia, CAO Haijian
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  103-110.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240606401
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      Objective Three-dimensional (3-D) woven composite materials have broad application prospects in multiple fields due to their excellent mechanical properties, strong designability and the ability to be formed as a whole. Among them, 3-D shallow angle-interlock woven structures have become a research hotspot due to their low cost and excellent performance. However, most of the existing research focuses on the independent analysis of the tightness or static weaving parameters in a single direction, lacking a systematic exploration of the coordinated regulation mechanism in the warp and weft directions and its correlation with mechanical properties.

      Method In this paper, under the condition of controlling the total yarn consumption of the fabric to be similar, two three-dimensional shallow interlaced fabric structures with five layers of warp yarns and six layers of weft yarns, and three layers of warp yarns and four layers of weft yarns (denoted as 5J6W and 3J4W respectively) were selected for weaving. To study the influence of the warp and weft tightness ratio on the mechanical properties of 3-D shallow angle-interlock woven composite materials, aramid 1414 fibers were used as raw materials to weave aramid 3-D shallow angle-interlock fabrics with two warp and weft tightness ratios, i.e. 2∶1 5J6W fabric and 1∶1 3J4W fabric. Aramid/epoxy composites were prepared by vacuum-assisted resin transfer molding process. Tensile tests were conducted according to standardized protocols. Meanwhile, combined with the tensile test results and damage morphology, analyze the influence of the ratio of warp and weft tightness on the tensile properties of 3-D shallow angle-interlock woven composites.

      Results When the warp and weft tightness ratio decreased from 2∶1 to 1∶1, the warp properties of the 3-D shallow angle-interlock aramid/epoxy woven composites decreased significantly (tensile strength dropped from 364 MPa to 145 MPa, a 60% decrease; modulus decreased from 628 MPa to 279 MPa, a 60% decrease), while the weft properties improved substantially (tensile strength increased from 186 MPa to 545 MPa, a 190% increase; modulus rose from 545 MPa to 1 057 MPa, a 94% increase). The failure modes showed that all warp tensile tests exhibited transverse failure, but the yarn fracture morphologies varied. At a 2∶1 warp and weft tightness ratio, warp yarn fractured layer by layer in a "V" shape, whereas at 1∶1, sudden "|" shaped fracture occurred due to stress concentration from buckling. The weft failure mode shifted from transverse failure at 2∶1 to diagonal oblique crack failure at 1∶1, induced by warp yarn sliding. Structurally, decreasing the warp and weft tightness ratio increased the warp yarn weaving angle from 15°to 38°and intensified buckling triggered stress concentration. Meanwhile, the weft yarn cross-section transformed from a flat strip (roll curvature R=0.1) to an elliptical shape (R=0.4), with the denser structure enhancing load-bearing efficiency. Although the 1∶1 tightness ratio strengthened resin-fiber interfacial bonding, it also became weak sources for crack initiation.

      Conclusion The improvement in weft performance directly resulted from the increase in load-bearing yarn content, while warp mechanical properties were compromised by buckling and high stress concentration in resin-rich zones. The tensile failure modes of aramid/epoxy 3-D shallow angle-interlock woven composites were found to have three types, namely, fiber fracture, resin damage and interfacial delamination. Warp tensile fracture occurred in the resin-rich areas of oblique warp yarn segments, whereas weft tensile fracture originated at the edges of warp yarns at interlacing points. The warp and weft tightness ratio regulated yarn interlacing states, fiber volume content, and interfacial bonding, thereby forming differentiated load transfer paths and failure modes.

      Effect of reinforced structure on electromagnetic shielding properties of carbon fiber/thermoplastic polyurethane flexible composites
      TANG Zenghua, LI Hongjie, BI Siyi, SHAO Guangwei, JIANG Jinhua, CHEN Nanliang, SHAO Huiqi
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  111-119.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20241104901
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      Objective Carbon fiber has strong electromagnetic shielding ability because of its good conductivity. With the development of electronic informatization, the design of carbon fiber fabrics with electromagnetic shielding performance has been widely supported and explored. At present, the research on the influence of fabric structural parameters on electromagnetic shielding performance mainly focuses on traditional metallized fabrics or mixed fabrics, while the research on carbon fiber electromagnetic shielding fabrics mainly focuses on single-layer fabric structures, and its shielding effectiveness has certain limitations. It is necessary to evaluate the electromagnetic shielding performance of different structural parameters and multi-layer carbon fiber composites.

      Method The electromagnetic shielding properties of plain weave structure, twill weave structure, biaxial structure and spread fiber structure carbon fiber fabrics and thermoplastic polyurethane(TPU) composites were studied, and their electromagnetic shielding mechanisms were analyzed. Four kinds of structural fabrics were used as reinforced structures, and were molded by hot pressing assisted by hot pressing at 190 ℃ and 5 MPa for 20 s. The electromagnetic shielding performance of composites in X-band was tested, and the difference of shielding efficiency of different structures was analyzed. The carbon fiber fabric with fiber spreading structure was hot-pressed and compounded by the number of layers and the angle of layers, and the effects of the change of the number of layers and the angle of layers on the electromagnetic shielding properties of the composites were explored.

      Results The results show that the fabric structure has a significant influence on the electromagnetic shielding properties of CF/TPU composites. Plain fabric shows the highest total shielding effectiveness (SSE), reaching 28 dB, which is significantly better than twill fabric (26.8 dB) and biaxial fabric (24.5 dB). The reason why plain fabric can achieve the best electromagnetic shielding effectiveness is mainly due to the dense distribution of interweaving points between fiber bundles in its fabric structure, which effectively enhances the overall coherence and stability of the fiber network, thereby reducing the scattering and transmission paths of electromagnetic waves inside the material. In addition, under the same area density condition, the plain fabric structure has smaller porosity than the other two types. This characteristic further limits the leakage of electromagnetic waves through the pores, reduces the occurrence of leakage waves, and ultimately improves the electromagnetic shielding effectiveness of composite materials. Furthermore, the electromagnetic shielding efficiency can be significantly improved through carbon fiber spreading treatment. The 80 g/m2 spread fabric achieves an SSE value of 34 dB, which is better than the unspread 150 g/m2 fabric (28 dB). The multi-layer layup structure has a significant impact on the electromagnetic shielding performance of CF/TPU composites. Although the fiber spreading treatment reduces the interweaving times of warp and weft yarns per unit area, the full spreading of carbon fiber tows promotes the full contact between warp and weft tows and significantly increases the number of contact points. In addition, the higher tightness of spread fabric compared with traditional plain fabric is also one of the key factors to improve electromagnetic shielding performance. With the increase of the layup angle, the SSE value shows a significant upward trend. When the included angle reaches 90°, the SSE value reaches a peak of 50 dB, which is about 12 dB compared with 37.2 dB at the included angle of 0°. This is because with the increase of the layup angle, the fiber bundles in the middle layer gradually tend to be arranged in parallel, the interlayer gap is effectively filled, and the porosity is reduced, thus significantly improving the electromagnetic shielding performance of the composite material and reducing the leakage phenomenon. Further analysis shows that under the condition of the optimal composite angle of 90°, with the superposition of layers layer by layer, the SSE value continues to increase steadily, but the increment gradually decreases, showing a decreasing trend. When five layers are superimposed, the SSE value reaches the maximum value of 64.57 dB. This observation reveals a nonlinear relationship between electromagnetic shielding effectiveness and the number of layers. Therefore, in practical applications, it is necessary to comprehensively consider the balance between cost and efficiency to optimize the structural design of electromagnetic shielding composites.

      Conclusion The electromagnetic shielding efficiency of plain woven carbon fiber reinforced composite materials reaches 28 dB, which is slightly higher than that of twill and biaxial reinforced structures, and the shielding efficiency of plain woven CF/TPU after fiber expansion is improved by nearly 50% compared with that of ordinary plain woven. At the same time, the layup structure of carbon fiber fabric has a significant influence on the electromagnetic properties of CF/TPU. With the increase of layup angle, its electromagnetic shielding efficiency also increases, and its electromagnetic shielding efficiency reaches 50 dB at 90° layup; With the increase of the number of layers, its electromagnetic shielding efficiency gradually increases, but the gain effect of the number of layers gradually decreases

      Preparation of woven spacer fabric reinforced cementitious composites and its mechanical properties
      GU Qihui, YANG Zhiqian, WANG Hailou, WEI Fayun, ZHANG Wei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  120-128.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20241102701
      Abstract ( 25 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (11798KB) ( 10 )   Save
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      Objective Traditional steel and concrete materials are heavy and brittle in nature, having poor crack resistance. Therefore, the research and development of lightweight, reinforced and toughened building materials is of great significance. Woven spacer fabrics have the advantages of stable structure, design flexibility in cross-sectional structure, large internal space, and certain regularity. Woven spacer fabric-reinforced concrete has high bearing capacity, durability, and impact resistance. The weave structure can be adjusted according to needs and the reinforcement can be directed. In this study, 4 types of woven spacer fabrics with different spacer yarn heights were made using glass fibers, which were used to prepare woven spacer fabric-reinforced cement composite materials.

      Method The 4 types of woven spacer fabrics were prepared with an "8"-shaped interlaced structure. The height of the spacer yarn was adjusted to control the spacing height. Spacers of different heights are placed between the upper and lower warps to control the spacing height. The spacer fabric was placed vertically in the mold and compounded with cement slurry by vibrating. The manufactured specimens were placed in a curing chamber at (20±2) ℃ and 95% relative humidity for 7 days. The mechanical properties and failure modes of the woven spacer fabric-reinforced cement-based composite were investigated through three-point bending tests at room temperature and 100 ℃, as well as impact tests to explore the effects of spacer fabric weaving direction, laying position, and spacing height on mechanical properties of the composites.

      Results The woven spacer fabric enhances the bending performance of textile reinforced concretes (TRC), and the higher spacer yarn is beneficial for improving the bending performance. The peak load and deformation energy are more significantly improved in weft direction than warp direction. Placing the fabric in the middle of specimen is likely to cause delamination and interfacial layering of matrix, while placing it at the bottom of specimen increases the stiffness, peak load and deformation energy, thereby improving the overall integrity of specimen. The bridge-linking effect of spacer yarn is more obvious in the weft bending, which is related to the warp and weft arrangement of spacer yarns. At 100 ℃, the bending strength loss of ordinary Portland cement (OPC) is obvious due to water loss and high-temperature decomposition of hydrated calcium silicate. The glass fiber spacer fabric is beneficial for improving the thermal resistance of TRC and reducing the loss of strength and toughness at 100 ℃. The bending strength of TRC-Weft-BB3, TRC-Weft-BB10, TRC-Weft-BB18, and TRC-Weft-BB22 decreased by 26.1%, 11.0%, 14.4%, and 5.4%, respectively, and the bending strength loss of TRC decreased as the height of spacer yarn increased. The improvement of impact load of TRC by adding spacer fabric is limited, but the improvement of energy absorption is significant. At the same time, the TRC owns higher impact load and higher energy absorption with thicker spacer fabric. With repeated impact loading, the impact load value of the same TRC specimen gradually decreases, but the decrease in energy absorption is not obvious. Among them, the TRC-Weft-IB22 specimen after being impacted three times only had a strength loss of 8.3%, with an average energy absorption of 9.32 times that of OPC, and the integrity of the specimen was good.

      Conclusion This paper prepared four types of woven spacer fabrics with different spacing heights, and the woven spacer fabric-reinforced cement composite materials were prepared. The woven spacer fabric-reinforced cement composite materials showed good bending strength and bending/impact toughness in bending test and impact test. The results show that the woven spacer fabric-reinforced cement composite materials have good mechanical properties and have good application prospects.

      Dyeing and Finishing Engineering
      Continuous dyeing technology for loose cotton fibers with reactive dyes and its industrial application
      JIN Shaote, YAN Kelu, HUANG Jinjie, CHEN Defang, SHI Xiangyang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  129-134.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250203801
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      Objective To address the issues of low production efficiency, high water and energy consumption, excessive salt usage, and significant wastewater discharge associated with the traditional exhausting dyeing method for loose cotton fibers with reactive dyes, the development of a complete set of continuous dyeing equipment for loose fibers could effectively solve this problem. In order to enhance the dyeing performance of this equipment, this study investigates the continuous dyeing technology for loose fibers under laboratory conditions, aiming to explore the optimal process parameters.

      Method A laboratory padder dyeing process were employed to simulate the continuous dyeing technology. Taking the color fastness, evenness, fixation rate and color depth as the evaluation indexes, experiments were carried out, and the optimized process were obtained. The experiment on the equipment of XCYL-15 was conducted in a factory. The color parameters and color fastnesses of fibers dyed with the continuous method were compared with those of fibers dyed with the conventional exhausting method. In addition, the economic and environmental benefits were analyzed.

      Results The optimized process parameters were identified through laboratory experiments, which are 50 g/L for the concentration of Reactive Black 5, 20 g/L for the concentration of mixed alkali (1∶4 of the mass ratio for NaOH against Na2CO3), 0 sodium sulfate addition, and 16 h stacking time at room temperature. With this optimal condition, the factory experiment was carried out with the XCYL-15 equipment. For the cotton fibers dyed with the continuous dyeing method, the K/S value was 39.86, the color difference ΔE1 between the left and the middle of the cotton fiber layer was 0.49, and the color difference ΔE2 between the right and the middle was 0.36, and the color difference ΔE3 between the inner and outer was 0.27, and the color difference ΔE4 between the front and rear was 0.62, indicating even dyeing of the cotton fiber layer and satisfaction of requirements. The color fastness of cotton fibers dyed via the continuous method was comparable to that of cotton fibers dyed using the traditional exhaust dyeing method. Specifically, the dry rubbing fastness and wet rubbing fastness of cotton fibers dyed by the continuous method were 4-5 and 3-4, respectively. Additionally, the K/S values of cotton fibers dyed by the continuous method and the traditional exhaust dyeing method were 39.86 and 36.57, respectively. However, the dye fixation of the continuous dyeing method reaches 86.5%, much higher than that of the traditional exhausting dyeing method, which is only 70.5%, resulting in high discharge of dyes into the dyeing wastewater. Compared with the traditional exhausting dyeing method, the continuous dyeing method would save 72% of water, 31.25% of dyes, 48% of electricity, 38% of steam, and reduce the salt usage by 100%.

      Conclusion By adopting the continuous dyeing method for loose cotton fibers, the dye concentration on the fiber surface is 3.75 times that of traditional salt-containing exhausting dyeing method. According to the Fick's second law, when the dye diffuses into the fiber, the higher the concentration, the greater the concentration gradient along the fiber radial direction. Consequently, the diffusion rate of the dye into the fiber interior is also higher, which is beneficial to the level dyeing. Therefore, the dyeing and fixation of the cotton fibers by the high concentration dye can be completed without the necessity of adding additional salt. This technology will revolutionize the exhausting dyeing process in the cotton color-spinning industry and is of great social, economic, and environmental significance.

      Preparation of colored latex particles and their application in printing of polyester-cotton fabrics
      CAI Liyun, OUYANG Chenghui, HUANG Zeyang, WANG Chengcheng, GUAN Yu, FU Shaohai, ZHANG Liping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  135-142.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250206001
      Abstract ( 29 )   HTML ( 2 )   PDF (7834KB) ( 10 )   Save
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      Objective In order to address the long dyeing process, large pollution and low pigment printing fastness in the coloring process of polyester/cotton blended fabrics, styrene and butyl acrylate were polymerized on the surface of the dye by emulsion polymerization to synthesis new red, yellow and blue colored latex particles. The colored latex particles were used as adhesive-free printing colorants for polyester and polyester-cotton fabrics. Using the screen-printing technology, the colored latex particles were used to prepare a binder-free and high printing fastness of colored polyester-cotton printed fabrics.

      Method The ammonium persulfate initiator was added to the pre-emulsion to initiate the polymerization of the monomer on the surface of the dye. The mixed solution of dye, styrene and butyl acrylate was added to the aqueous solution of emulsifier, which were then stirred at high speed for 20 min to obtain the pre-emulsion until the completion of the polymerization reaction to obtain colored latex particles. The prepared latex particles are mainly composed of dyes and polymers, where the polymer formed a uniform and complete film on the surface of the fabric, anchoring the dye to the surface of the fabric and imparting color fastness to the print.

      Results The study was focused on the effects of different factors on the formation of latex particles and their printing properties. The microscopic morphology, thermal properties, particle size and particle size distribution, stability and printing properties of colored latex particles were studied. The effects of emulsifier composition, hard to soft monomers ratio and baking temperature on the preparation and printing performance of latex granules were explored. With the increase of OP-10 emulsifier, the particle average size of latex particles showed a gradual increase trend, and the dispersion coefficient gradually decreased. With the proportion of soft monomers increase, the particle average size became larger with a decrease in dispersion coefficient. Particle size and hard to soft monomers ratio have an impact on color. The increase of particle size and the proportion of soft monomers were found to be conducive to the increase of K/S value. According to the changes of △E before and after rubbing, the effects of different factors on printing fastness were explored. The increase in the proportion of soft monomers was conducive to the printing fastness of the fabric, but it would affect the hand feel of the fabric. Baking temperature exhibited little effect on rubbing fastness. Through experiments, the optimal preparation process of latex particles was obtained, where OP-10 emulsifier accounted for 5/8 of the total emulsifier, R-4006 emulsifier accounted for 2/8 of the total emulsifier, and R-4001 emulsifier accounted for 1/8 of the total emulsifier, and the ratio of soft to hard monomers was 1∶1.

      Conclusion In this work, the red, yellow and blue nano-latex particles that can be used for binder-free printing were successfully prepared. The prepared latex particle average size is within 200 nm, the dispersion coefficient is below 0.1, the centrifugal stability and heat resistance stability are more than 95%. The colored latex granules show a small particle size, uniform particle size distribution and high stability. In the case of printing without binder, the soaping fastness of latex particle printing on polyester can reach 4 grades, and the dry and wet friction fastness can reach 3-4 grades; whereas the soaping fastness on polyester cotton can reach 3-4 grades, and the dry and wet rubbing fastness can reach 3-4 grades. The color of the printed fabric is uniform and bright, and the printed fabric has good color fastness.

      Synthesis of new ethylene sulfone acetate reactive disperse dyes and its dyeing performance for polyamide 66 fabrics
      LI Jian'ge, WU Wei, HAN Weipeng, JI Bolin, XU Hong, MAO Zhiping
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  143-151.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250204701
      Abstract ( 32 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (7090KB) ( 11 )   Save
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      Objective Polyamide 66 fiber has high crystalline degree, dense structure, and less active amino content at the end of the molecular chain, and it is difficult to achieve deep dyeing of polyamide 66 with acidic dyes or disperse dyes or reactive dyes. To achieve deep dyeing, it is necessary to use acidic dyes containing heavy metal complexes, which causes a certain pressure on environmental protection. It is of great significance to synthesize special dyes for polyamide 66.

      Method Small molecular disperse dyes were synthesized by diazotization and coupling reaction with 2-[(3-aminophenyl) sulfonyl] ethanol as diazo component and N, N-diethylaniline as the coupling component. The synthesized small molecular disperse dyes were then modified by acetic anhydride to prepare small molecular hydrophobic active disperse dyes with better affinity for polyamide 66. The structure of the dyes was characterized by fourier transform infrared spectroscopy and proton nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy, and the spectral properties of the dyes were analyzed by ultraviolet-visible spectroscopy. The dyeing process conditions of the polyamide 66 fabric were optimized by single factor experiment with K/S value of the dyed fabric as the index. The kinetics and thermodynamics of reactive disperse dyes for dyeing polyamide 66 were analyzed through the constant temperature dyeing rate curve and the adsorption isotherm. The color fastness test of the dyed fabrics was conducted to examine the color fastness of polyamide 66 fabrics dyed with reactive disperse dyes in various aspects, and the penetration property analysis was carried out.

      Results The structure of the dye was confirmed to be correct by infrared spectroscopy and hydrogen nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy. The dye had a maximum absorption wavelength at 450 nm, the color light was yellow, and the molar extinction coefficient reached 14 104 L/(mol·cm). The optimal dyeing of nylon 66 fabric was processed at dyeing temperature 100 ℃, pH 7, and dyeing time 30 min. When 2%(o.w.f) dye was added into the dyeing bath, the K/S value of the dyed fabric was 27. The fastness of polyamide 66 fabric dyed by reactive disperse dyes was good, with the fastness to soap washing, sublimation and dry/wet friction reaching 4-5. The fastness to sunlight was 4 and achieved dye penetration. The adsorption dyeing kinetics equation of reactive disperse dyes on polyamide 66 conforms to the quasi-second-order kinetics equation, and the adsorption isotherm conforms to the Nernst thermodynamic adsorption model. The reactive disperse dyes demonstrated good dye penetration for polyamide 66.

      Conclusion Due to its low polarity, the developed reactive disperse dyes show good affinity for polyamide 66 fibers. During the dyeing process, the saturated dyeing amount is at a relatively high level, solving the problem of poor depth of polyamide 66 fabrics. Each color fastness is excellent and meet the production requirements and consumption needs short process flow, high efficiency and energy saving.

      L-cysteine/bromelain synergistic one-bath process anti-shrinkage finishing of wool fabrics
      WANG Siyu, WANG Feng, WANG Hongbo, SU Jing
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  152-158.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250201601
      Abstract ( 37 )   HTML ( 3 )   PDF (7253KB) ( 8 )   Save
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      Objective Wool fibers feature a scaly cuticle layer, rendering wool fabrics prone to felting shrinkage during washing, wet-heat treatment, or mechanical action. This felting results in dimensional shrinkage, stiff hand feel, and reduced elasticity, significantly compromising fabric quality. To overcome limitations of traditional methods, such as complex two-bath processes and significant fiber damage, this study explores a simplified, low-damage one-bath finishing approach. Specifically, we developed a novel, eco-friendly single-bath finishing process utilizing green agents L-cysteine and bromelain under mild conditions. This single-step process efficiently disrupts the wool scale structure, effectively balancing anti-felting performance with tensile strength retention. It also enhances functional properties like dyeability and wettability, while substantially streamlining processing and reducing chemical consumption.

      Method Fabrics were initially degreased using sodium dodecyl sulfate. Subsequently, the degreased wool fabrics underwent a novel one-bath, one-step anti-felting treatment employing a solution containing L-cysteine and bromelain. To evaluate the treatment efficacy and potential fiber damage, we measured: felting shrinkage using an automatic shrinkage tester; breaking strength with a fabric strength tester; alkali solubility; and surface thiol content. Additionally, surface morphology was examined by scanning electron microscopy, and chemical structural changes were analyzed by Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. Furthermore, fabric wettability, hand feel, and dyeing properties were characterized using a contact angle meter, fabric style tester, and computer color matching system, respectively.

      Results The synergistic one-bath one-step system integrating L-cysteine (L-cys) and bromelain (BRM) effectively addressed the limitations of low efficiency in single-protease systems and operational complexity in conventional two-bath bio-anti-felting processes. Mechanistic studies confirmed that L-cys selectively cleaves disulfide bonds within the scale layer, creating reactive sites that significantly enhance the proteolytic accessibility of BRM. This sequential mechanism (disulfide reduction followed by peptide hydrolysis) enables thorough scale exfoliation of cuticle scales while preserving the wool fiber integrity. Performance metrics indicated that felting shrinkage decreased dramatically from 23.12% in untreated fabric to 2.98% in treated samples, accompanied by a controlled breaking strength loss of merely 10.80%. Quantitative biochemical analyses further validated the mechanism, where alkali solubility was increased from 13.41% to 18.30%, indicating modified keratin solubility due to structural disruption, while surface thiol content surged from (1.43 ± 0.05) μmol/mg to (3.42 ± 0.06) μmol/mg, providing direct evidence of disulfide bond cleavage and cooperative interaction between the agents. Morphological characterization via scanning electron microscopy corroborated efficient and uniform scale removal, with no observable fibrillation or cortical damage. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy analysis confirmed that the treatment exclusively targeted disulfide bonds and surface-exposed peptide linkages with no irreversible hydrolysis of the keratin polypeptide backbone, thereby minimizing core fiber damage. Functionally, the process enhanced multiple fabric properties, with wettability improved markedly (contact angle reduced from 136° to 80° and wetting time shortened to 120 s), and dyeing performance intensified (dye uptake rates reached 88.11% for Lanasol Golden Yellow and 58.64% for Acid Red B, with corresponding K/S values substantially exceeding untreated controls). Tactile attributes were optimized (softness increased to 87.53, smoothness elevated to 79.04, stiffness reduced to 14.41). These multidimensional improvements demonstrate the system's capacity to deliver high-efficiency anti-felting with minimal fiber compromise while concurrently upgrading functional performance.

      Conclusion This study establishes a synergistic L-cysteine/bromelain one-bath system that achieves low-damage anti-felting finishing for wool textiles. The mechanism involves L-cysteine-mediated selective disulfide bond cleavage in the scale layer, which exposes reactive sites for bromelain to hydrolyze peptide bonds. This sequential action enables profound scale exfoliation while maintaining the structural integrity of the fiber cortex, reducing felting shrinkage to 2.98% with only 10.80% breaking strength loss. Optimal parameters (3.0 g/L L-cysteine, 60 U/mL bromelain, pH 7.0, 55 ℃, 90 min) balance anti-felting efficacy and mechanical integrity. The treatment concurrently enhances functional properties of wool fabric, where alkali solubility is increased and thiol content confirms structural modification, while scale removal improves dye uptake and wettability with elevated softness and smoothness indicating improved hand feel. Compared to traditional two-bath or chemical-intensive methods, this one-bath approach simplifies production flows, eliminates hazardous reagents, and reduces environmental footprint. Consequently, the L-cysteine/bromelain system establishes an eco-efficient industrial bio-anti-felting strategy that delivers superior performance with minimal fiber damage, demonstrating strong potential for green textile applications.

      Preparation and dye adsorption properties of activated carbon loaded Juncus effusus materials
      LIU Dongfang, REN Lipei, XU Weilin, XIAO Xingfang
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  159-166.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250202901
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      Objective Addressing the detrimental impact of textile printing and dyeing wastewater is crucial for the sustainable development of the textile industry and essential for mitigating the damage to water ecosystems, advancing ecological protection, and promoting the sustainable use of water resources. Adsorption technology, owing to its simplicity, flexibility, and efficiency in water purification, offers a promising solution to this issue. However, the powdered form of activated carbon - an effective dye adsorbent - poses challenges in both practical applications and disposal following dye adsorption.

      Method Herein, activated carbon-Juncus effusus (AC-JE), a natural cellulose-based adsorbent, was employed for the treatment of dyeing and printing wastewater. Juncus effusus was immersed in a dilute alkaline solution to enhance its hydrophilicity, followed by immersion in an activated carbon dispersion to uniformly load the activated carbon and obtain AC-JE. The adsorption effects were evaluated under varying conditions utilizing rhodamine B as the dye model. Micromorphology, absorption properties, thermal stability properties, and pore structure were analyzed. The adsorption effect was investigated for different AC-JE masses, adsorption times, and initial Rhodamine B solution concentrations.

      Results The results indicated that the dye adsorption removal rate increased as the adsorbent input increased. After determining the mass of the adsorbent, the adsorption sites gradually became saturated as the adsorption time increased, and the adsorption capacity increased until equilibrium was reached. This 50 mg mass of AC-JE was used to adsorb 20 mg/L of Rhodamine B stain, and saturation of adsorption was reached after 60 min. The adsorption involved an initial binding of the dye to the adsorption sites of the activated carbon, followed by adsorption of the dye onto the available adsorption sites of Juncus effusus until all the cavities in both the activated carbon and macropores of Juncus effusus were filled. This 100 mg mass of AC-JE was used to filter 20 mL of Rhodamine B stain and can continue to be used to filter the next stain. After five filtration cycles, the dye removal rate was 99.06%, and after seven filtraction cycles, the removal rate remained at 85.57%.

      Conclusion The AC-JE composite fiber combines the macroporous structure of Juncus effusus with the microporous and mesoporous structures of activated carbon, thereby providing additional adsorption sites and increasing the contact area between the adsorbent and dye molecules. This material provides a reliable solution for wastewater treatment. The adsorption of Rhodamine B by Juncus effusus reached saturation at 3.37 mg/g, whereas the adsorption capacity of AC-JE remained stable at 3.99 mg/g, with a removal rate of 99.97%. The adsorption process followed a pseudo-second-order kinetic equation and the Langmuir isotherm model, with a maximum monolayer adsorption capacity of 142.43 mg/g. The dye removal rate was 85.57% even after seven filtration cycles, validating its recyclability and efficiency. As a natural cellulose-based adsorbent, AC-JE holds significant potential for widespread applications in industrial wastewater treatment, providing valuable insights for the development of more efficient and environment-friendly adsorbents.

      Design and evaluation of digital texture color cards for monochromatic woven fabrics
      ZHANG Ziyue, JIANG Hongxia, LIU Jihong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  167-175.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20241107201
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      Objective In the textile and apparel industry, color cards are an important communication tool between design and production. However, traditional color cards fail to represent color of textured fabrics accurately, leading to visual discrepancies between standard colors and actual fabric appearances. In order to tackle the visual difference between a single color in the traditional color card and the real fabric color with texture features, this study aims to develop a digital texture color card by fusing texture templates with specified color values through a novel algorithm.

      Method In the Lab color space, an algorithm of digital texture color card was proposed to adjust fabric brightness by subtracting the average gray value of L channel and superimposing the target color value of color channel. An Epson Perfection V19 scanner was used to capture fabric images at 1 200 dpi, and the images were then de-noised using median filter and geometrically corrected by fast Fourier transform and Hough transform to obtain the texture template. According to the texture color card algorithm, fabric digital texture color cards were made and human visual perception experiments designed. The influence of fabric color on texture during scanning was analyzed, and the digital texture color card was evaluated from two aspects, i.e. color difference and texture similarity.

      Results Four fabric images of different colors and the same texture structure were collected by using the scanner, numbered 1 to 4 according to the brightness of the fabric from low to high, and the related image processing and texture color cards were completed in MatLab R2023b. As the brightness of the fabric increases, the distribution range of gray values decreases. It was found that the gray histogram of fabrics 1 to 3 was high in the middle and low on both sides. For fabric 4, due to its high brightness, its gray histogram showed a left-low and right-high trend indicating its detail texture is not clearly visible in the scanned images. By calculating the gray co-occurrence matrix and related mean values in the four directions of the fabric, it was concluded that with the increase of fabric brightness, the energy and correlation increase, and the texture rules were uniform and the directionality was obvious. Under the above conditions, the entropy and contrast were reduced, the scanning texture was more regular, the image appeared smoother, and the texture change was not significant. CIEDE2000 color difference formula was used to calculate the color difference between the texture color card and the original fabric image to evaluate the color proximity. The results showed that the mean value of CIEDE2000ΔE between the texture color card and the original fabric was between 0.05 and 0.69, and the color difference was small. In order to verify the rationality of the method of making the texture color card, histogram cosine similarity (HCS) and structural similarity (SSIM) were used to verify the similarity between the texture color card and the scanned fabric image. The results exhibited that the mean value of texture color card HCS was above 0.90, and the similarity of color distribution was high. From the perspective of structure, the mean value of SSIM of fabrisc 1, 2 and 3 exceeded 0.8 and the texture similarity was high, while the mean value of SSIM of fabric 4 was low and the standard deviation was high relatively. This method is suitable for making fabric texture color cards with moderate brightness. In the experiment of human visual evaluation, the means of subjective scores were distributed in the range of 0.23 to 0.83, corresponding to the perceived level of visual difference ranging from "no difference" to "barely perceptible difference". Futhermore, the results of subjective evaluation were highly consistent with those of objective evaluation.

      Conclusion According to the texture color card algorithm, a fabric digital color card with texture features is made to realize the presentation of different colors on the texture. It is found by scanning fabric samples with different texture images and different brightness. The higher the brightness, the smoother the scanned texture. The color difference of the texture color card is small, and the color value is consistent with the scanned image. The mean values of HCS are close to 1, and the color distribution is similar. For texture color cards with medium brightness values, SSIM mean values are above 0.8, and texture similarity is high. The results achieved high fidelity (HCS>0.90, SSIM>0.80) for test samples, demonstrating robustness for medium-brightness woven fabrics. Fabrics with extreme brightness deviations (overly high or low) should be paired with texture templates of comparable brightness levels. In the subjective evaluation, texture affects the visual perception of color. The cosine similarity index based on HCS histogram is closer to the visual characteristics of human eyes in the evaluation of texture perception. This method is currently suitable for medium-brightness fabrics. In the future, we will focus on optimizing the algorithm to improve the color visual effect with a wider range which is expected to be suitable for fabrics with different color and texture, and create a digital database of fabric texture color cards.

      Apparel Engineering
      Optimization of bra cup parameters based on breast morphological characteristics
      LIU Yuwan, ZHONG Zejun, SUN Yue, GU Bingfei
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  176-186.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250400201
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      Objective As a significant factor to reflect the morphological beauty of women, the breast part can also influence women's health. The bra cup can effectively support and gather the breasts, thereby improving the breast shape. To optimize the parameters of the bra cup, this study used the real-person wearing experiment and finite element model to analyze the relationship between the human body and bra. The influence of different bra cup parameters on the breast shape was evaluated from two aspects, including the displacement of breast feature points and the change in slice area, and then the bra cup parameters were optimized.

      Method The point cloud data of human body were obtained through 3-D body scanning. Breast feature points and morphological parameters were extracted to establish geometric models of the breast, torso, and bra cup. Based on a thin bra cup model, geometric models of mold-cup bras with different bra cup parameters (thickness, long semi-axis length, short semi-axis length) were constructed by modifying these parameters. Utilizing the validated model, the wearing effects of 81 combinations of bra cup parameters were simulated. Displacements of breast feature points and pressure distribution were analyzed to investigate the influence of bra cup parameters on breast morphology.

      Results The accuracy of the finite element contact model was verified through contour similarity and morphological parameter deviation. The breast parts of the actual model and the virtual model were segmented, and the similarity of their contour shapes was calculated to be 0.007, indicating a high degree of similarity and small deviation. At the same time, an independent sample t-test was used to test the slice area of the actual model and the virtual model. The t-test yielded t = -0.028, p = 0.978 > 0.05, indicating no significant difference between the two. Real experiments showed that thin bras had a better effect on increasing the height of the BP point, but thick bras were more suitable for optimizing the sagging shape of the breasts and to some extent avoiding over-lifting the breast position. Moreover, thick bras had a better effect on improving the degree of BP point convergence, which is conducive to shaping a more convergent breast shape. After wearing bras, the S value of the subjects increased, indicating that wearing bras helps flat-shaped breasts become fuller. However, fuller-shaped breasts led to decreased S value after wearing bras. After wearing thick bras, the breast area in the second and third quadrants was larger than that in the first and fourth quadrants, indicating that thick bras offered a better effect on improving the degree of breast convergence. Numerical simulation showed that for flat-rounded breasts, choosing a cup with a cup thickness of 15 mm and a short semi-axis of 20 mm had the best breast shaping effect. For bra manufacturers, a cup with a long semi-axis of 20 mm could be selected to save cup fabric and reduce production costs. Contact pressure analysis showed that when the cup thickness was 17 mm, the maximum contact pressure was between 1.47 kPa and 2.46 kPa, which would cause slight discomfort to the human body. The cup thickness should be appropriately reduced.

      Conclusion The proposed numerical simulation method was adopted to quantitatively evaluate the morphological changes of the breast. The support and gathering capabilities of bras under different cup parameters were compared, and the optimal cup parameters for flat-rounded breasts were obtained. This model can be used to study the complex contact mechanism between the human breast and the bra cup, thereby providing theoretical guidance for the development of bra cups from the perspectives of functionality and comfort. It has application value in optimizing the design of bra cups, shortening the product development cycle, and reducing production costs.

      Development of antibacterial seamless yoga clothes and its thermal-wet comfort based on bionic structure
      XU Weihui, ZHU Tingting, WAN Ailan, MA Pibo
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  187-196.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250103501
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      Objective Because yoga clothing is close to the body and has limited air permeability, it is difficult for the material to transfer sweat. The warm and humid environment provides suitable conditions for bacterial growth. However, there are few studies on the bionic structure and antibacterial properties of yoga clothing. This research aims to develop antibacterial yoga clothing with functional divisions based on bioinspired structures.

      Method Seamless yoga clothing was prepared with functional divisions using antibacterial spandex added with Ag+ as raw material. Fifteen types of single guide wet fabrics were designed based on the stems and leaves of Dishgyi. The effects of fabric structure, yarn type, thickness and hydrophobicity on antibacterial properties, thermal-moisture comfort and fabric density were discussed with five indexes of elastic recovery rate, air permeability, moisture permeability, thermal resistance and liquid water management ability as the research objects. According to the principle of ergonomics, a yoga clothing with functional divisions was designed, and its antibacterial and thermal properties were characterized.

      Results 15 fabrics were woven based on bionic Dishgyi. Among them, the first twelve were used for the project vests, and the last three were benchmarck samples used for comparison. All the comparison samples were of weft flat needle structure. The test showed that the elastic recovery of the hexagonal convex-concave structure of the fabric was the best, which was up to 86.32%, and the air permeability of the strip-strip fabric sample was as high as 596 mm/s. The moisture permeability of 1+1 false rib-wavy honeycomb fabric sample was up to 7 870 g/(m2·d), the weft flat stitch 1×1 strip structure had the lowest thermal resistance and excellent heat dissipation, and the hexagonal convex and concave structure had the best water management ability. These highly distinctive fabrics were used to form various parts of the functional modular yoga wear. For example, in the shoulder area, the elastic misaligned striped-checkered structure was selected, and for areas prone to sweating on the chest and back, 1+1 false ribbed-wavy honeycomb tissue with good breathability, moisture permeability and strong water management ability were selected. A seamless yoga clothing with a single guide wet performance was compared with an ordinary yoga clothing. Participants wearing a seamless exercise yoga vest were asked to run on a treadmill for 15 minutes, and then to be stationary for 5, 10 and 15 minutes. Antibacterial tests were carried out on the chest and back center which were the most sweaty areas. The seamless exercise yoga vest made of silver ion antibacterial spandex and hydrophobic nylon showed good overall antibacterial performance. With the increase of resting time, the antibacterial rate continues to increase, and the number of colonies increased from an average of 15 after 5 minutes of resting to 0 after 15 minutes of resting. The subject wore a seamless exercise yoga vest, jogged on the treadmill for 15 minutes, and then stood still for 15 minutes. The infrared imager recorded the temperature change of the human body surface, and stood still before pre-running. The red area of the subject vest was almost twice less than that of the control vest. With the increase of resting time, the red area decreases and the subject vest descended faster. The temperature of the chest center dropped faster after resting due to factors such as breast protrusion.

      Conclusion The results showed that the prepared seamless yoga clothing with modular functions based on bioinspired structures had excellent antibacterial and thermal comfort. The body temperature was made to return to the pre-exercise temperature after 3 minutes of resting, and the antibacterial rate could reach 99.99% after 15 minutes.

      Virtual skin modeling for clothing pressure simulation
      TAO Chen, HONG Xinghua, YIN Meifen
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  197-205.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20240705701
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      Objective Virtual fitting attracts much research attention for clothing digitalization. Existing studies regard the human body as rigid in body representation, adopt a one-way repulsion model in the contact mechanism, and implement a simple process of pushing the clothing away from the human body when dealing with contact. These studies focus on improving the visual effect of virtual fitting, while the clothing pressure simulation and pressure comfort evaluation are ignored. This study represents an annovation attempt to replace the existing one-way contact mechanism, and proposes a virtual skin model, which fully reflects the deformation of human skin and the mutual effect between clothing and the body, which is designed for perceiving the pressure transmitted from clothing to the body, thus providing a method for the prediction of pressure comfort in the scenario of virtual fitting.

      Methods The skin with mechanical properties was constructed by volume constraint and shape constraint, and the variability of skin shape was controlled by the shape preserving factor, thus regulating the degree of skin firmness or relaxation. The particle spring system was used to construct the fabric model in order to facilitate skin contact and interaction, and the mapping between the spring coefficient and the real fabric mechanical properties was established. The contact behavior of particles was conducted by momentum reallocation, and the spatial displacement of particles was calculated by the integral of particle velocity on the time slices, so as to complete the contact deformation on both skin and clothing. By calculating the force of particles in the contact process, the real-time clothing pressure on human skin was obtained, and thus the clothing pressure in virtual space was simulated and evaluated.

      Results The elastic coefficient of the fabric model was obtained from the tensile test of the real fabric, so that the mapping between the virtual fabric and the real fabric was established. The virtual fabric was tailored and sewn to produce virtual clothing. A live body model was scanned, and the skin was generated from the resulting body surface mesh. The virtual clothing was placed on the human body with the skin layer, and the interaction between skin and clothing was simulated with respect to the contact algorithm so as to calculate the clothing pressure. The pressure was mainly concentrated in the chest, shoulders, back and side waist, which is consistent with the intuitive experience. The pressure sensors were attached on the body skin, and the real pressure on the spots of the chest, shoulder, back and side waist was collected and compared with the simulated pressure. With the increased value of shape preserving factor α, the virtual pressure at each spot increased gradually, first approaching the real pressure value and then gradually deviating from it. The overall error of simulated pressure decreased first and then increased as the α value increased, and the shape preserving factor α=0.5 corresponding to the minimum error of 17.8% was regarded as the descriptive parameter for the personality of the subject's skin. The minimum errors of simulated pressure on the chest, shoulder, back and side waist points appeared at α=0.28, 0.81, 0.66 and 0.45 respectively, which was consistent with the fact that the skin flexibility of the chest is the largest, followed by the waist, the back and the shoulder successively. The skin was divided into four regions surrounding chest, shoulder, back and waist. The shape preserving factor in each region was set to the value corresponding to the minimum pressure error of the spot to form the so-called mixed shape preserving factors, and the virtual pressure was calculated and compared with the case in which the single preserving factor takes effect. The results show that the minimum error was 17.72% with single preserving factor and 8.92% when using mixed preserving factors. It is proved that using mixed preserving factors to describe body skin can effectively reduce the error and improve the precision of simulation by considering the difference of various parts of body skin.

      Conclusion The skin model proposed in this study can simulate the contact and interaction between human body and clothing, and fetch the clothing pressure on the skin in real time, so as to provide theory and methods for high-level virtual fitting and comfort evaluation. The mechanical behavior of human skin is simulated by volume constraint and shape constraint, with the latter being manipulated by the shape preserving factors, and thus the expression of skin firmness or relaxation is achieved. In the particle space, the contact behavior of particles is conducted by the momentum reallocation rule, and the change of spatial position after contact is achieved by the integral of particle velocity, so as to introduce the contact deformation of skin and clothing. By calculating the force of clothing particles in the contact process, the clothing pressure on human body is obtained. In the verification experiment, the virtual skin is constructed from the real human body mesh, and the virtual fabric is built with the real fabric as the prototype. The measured real clothing pressure is compared with the simulated pressure, and the mixed shape preserving factor is employed to reflect the difference of the skin in different parts of human body, leading to a reduced error of 8.92%.

      Machinery & Equipment
      Multi-automated guided vehicles collaborative path planning in spinning workshop based on algorithm
      LIU Yisheng, XIONG Junkang, DAI Ning, HU Xudong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  206-216.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20241104601
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      Objective To meet the demands for intelligent spinning workshops driven by the widespread use of automated guided vehicles (AGVs), this study addresses critical challenges in AGV path planning. For single-AGV path planning, prevalent issues include a high risk of algorithm stagnation leading to deadlock, excessive redundant turns in planned paths, and slow convergence speed. Concurrently, frequent path conflicts among multiple AGVs require effective resolution strategies. To tackle these problems, this research aims to develop an improved ant colony optimization algorithm combined with a hybrid conflict resolution strategy. The objectives are to enhance the efficiency of individual AGV path planning and achieve conflict-free path coordination for multi-AGV collaborative operation. This integrated approach is expected to significantly improve the overall operational efficiency of AGV systems within spinning workshops.

      Method This study utilizes grid-based modeling aligned with spinning workshop workflows to address path planning from both single-AGV and multi-AGV collaborative perspectives. For individual AGV path planning, the conventional ant colony algorithm was enhanced through three key innovations; i. implementing a path backtracking mechanism to resolve diverse deadlock scenarios, which actively extracts trapped agents upon deadlock detection; ii. developing a pheromone reward-penalty strategy to evaluate each iteration's solution paths and apply corresponding rewards/penalties; iii. introducing a turning minimization heuristic that guides route selection during iterations through orientation-based optimization in the heuristic function. For multi-AGV conflict resolution, a hybrid priority-time window algorithm was proposed, featuring the priority-based task allocation combined with time window conflict detection to classify conflicts, visual identification of conflict zones through time window rearrangement on conflict segments, and customized resolution strategies for different conflict types (node contention, head-on collisions, and so on). The system iteratively executes this detection-resolution cycle until eliminating all conflicts.

      Results Experimental validation confirmed the enhanced algorithm's superior path planning performance for individual AGVs across both simple and complex environments. Comparative analysis against conventional and reference algorithms demonstrated that the improved ant colony optimization consistently identifies the shortest path during each iteration under simple conditions. Notably, deadlock occurrence decreased to 24.8% of conventional algorithm levels (representing a 5.9% reduction versus the reference algorithm), while convergence iterations reduced to 39.7% of traditional method requirements (a 41.3% improvement over the reference approach). The solution achieved significantly faster convergence in average path length compared to the baseline methods. In complex environmental testing, deadlock incidence diminished to 16.4% of benchmark algorithm performance (52.4% lower than the reference standard) with a 60.7% reduction in convergence iterations compared to the reference algorithm. Comprehensive path data analysis confirmed global optimization in turning metrics. For multi-AGV conflict resolution, experimental implementation within the spinning workshop model successfully validated the hybrid strategy. Post-planning graphical analysis precisely identified and categorized three conflict types, i.e., nodal contention, pursuit interference, and head-on collisions. Application of minimum-cost resolution strategies for each category eliminated all conflicts, with temporal analysis of pre- and post-resolution time windows confirming zero repeated node occupancy. These results jointly verify the effectiveness of the algorithm in achieving the dual goals of the efficiency of a single AGV and the coordination of multiple AGVs without conflicts.

      Conclusion This research establishes a coordinated path planning framework for multiple automated guided vehicles in spinning workshops, integrating enhanced route planning with dynamic conflict resolution. Experimental validation confirms the improved ant colony algorithm's efficacy, where the path backtracking strategy reduces deadlocked agents to levels below 24.8% of conventional approaches, significantly strengthening global search stability particularly in complex environments. Concurrently, the pheromone reward-penalty mechanism accelerates convergence, evidenced by the solution requiring only 27.2% of traditional iterations under challenging conditions. Further optimization through heuristic function modifications yields paths with minimal travel distance and optimal turning frequency, demonstrating robust adaptability across operational scenarios. The hybrid conflict resolution system complements these advancements by accurately classifying conflict types including nodal contention, pursuit interference, and head-on collisions and implementing context-appropriate resolution strategies. Multi-AGV operational testing confirms uninterrupted workflow maintenance through effective conflict mitigation.Future work will focus on integrating production scheduling systems to optimize multi-AGV coordination and exploring computationally efficient technologies to reduce algorithmic complexity.

      Design of weft insertion motion with variable-stroke and variable-speed for narrow channels in soft-hard blended preforms
      XING Lipeng, DONG Jiuzhi, MEI Baolong, CHEN Yunjun, LI Rui
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  217-226.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250300301
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      Objective Electronic weft insertion mechanisms can significantly enhance both stability and flexibility in the weft insertion process. However, current electronic weft insertion systems maintain a constant input motion, which fails to meet the requirements for regulating variable-stroke weft insertion motion characteristics. Therefore, this study proposes a variable-speed motion model based on an asymmetric modified cycloid function for optimizing the weft insertion process. This model is expected to enable precise control of weft insertion motion characteristics while improving insertion efficiency, thereby providing critical technical support for the development of high-speed weaving equipment.

      Method This study adopts an integrated approach combining theoretical modeling, numerical simulation, and experimental validation to systematically investigate weft insertion motion in narrow channels. First, an asymmetric modified cycloid function model with dual control variables (κ and k) is established based on variable-stroke weft insertion requirements. Subsequently, MatLab simulations verify the model capability to maintain consistent dwell time across different channel lengths. To validate practical application, an electronic weft insertion platform is developed using electronic cam technology for motion control, demonstrating superior performance in both motion smoothness and speed enhancement compared to conventional pulse control. Furthermore, comparative analysis between encoder-collected trajectory data and simulation results further confirms the model's accuracy and engineering feasibility.

      Results Comparative experimental results based on the electromechanical system platform demonstrate that the proposed variable-speed motion exhibits significant performance advantages over traditional pulse control in actual weft insertion operations. During the first phase of experiments, the optimal operating parameters for constant-speed motion were determined. When the rapier head travel distance reached 30 mm, measurements within the 50-90 mm/s speed range revealed that the displacement fluctuation in the thickness direction increased with speed. In the 70-80 mm/s range, the fluctuation stabilized near the critical value of 0.25 mm, which ultimately confirmed 75 mm/s as the optimal constant-speed for weft insertion. In the second phase, by applying electronic cam technology to increase the cam spindle angular velocity from 5 rad/s to 9 rad/s, experimental data showed that a dwell time of 0.47 s could be achieved at ω = 7 rad/s, corresponding to an average speed increase to 87 mm/s. Theoretical calculations demonstrated that the variable-speed motion could increase the average weft insertion speed by 16% across all weft insertion channels while reducing weft insertion time by 13.8%. For experimental validation, high-precision servo motor encoders were used to collect real-time motion trajectory data. Under the extreme channel condition (i = 54), the maximum measured end displacement error was 2.32 mm, with a relative error of 0.53%.

      Conclusion The variable-speed motion model developed in this study dynamically regulates motion characteristics during variable-stroke weft insertion by adjusting the speed ratio coefficient (κ) and the asymmetry coefficient (k). Numerical simulations and experimental results was used to validate the model's accuracy and feasibility. Specifically, for shorter channels, the rapier head enters with higher velocity and acceleration, while these parameters are proportionally reduced for longer channels. Compared to traditional constant-speed pulse motion, this model significantly increases weft insertion speed, reduces insertion time, and improves preform forming efficiency. Moreover, this technology is not limited to blended soft-hard preforms but can also be extended to other 3-D fabric forming processes involving rapier weft insertion.

      Design of fabric defect detection system based on high generalization image generation and classification algorithm
      WU Weitao, HAN Aobo, NIU Kui, JIA Jianhui, YIN Bangxiong, XIANG Zhong
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  227-236.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20241203901
      Abstract ( 40 )   HTML ( 5 )   PDF (20589KB) ( 17 )   Save
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      Objective Rapid, real-time and accurate detection of fabric defects is an important step in the textile production process. Manual detection has problems such as low detection efficiency, high labor intensity, high detection rate, and low detection rate and poor real-time performance of existing mainstream target detection algorithms. Therefore, a fabric defect detection scheme covering hardware, sampling, training, detection, cloud and other links is proposed aiming at the development of a defect detection system based on machine vision to meet the requirements of high precision and real-time in practical applications.

      Method A mask technology based fabric defect image generation algorithm is proposed. Based on CycleGAN network model, heterogeneous defect images are generated to solve the problem of unbalanced defect classes. Three network modules, including hook feature pyramid, are proposed. Starting with feature extraction network and information fusion module, the accurate extraction of differential defect features is realized based on YOLOv5 network model, which solves the problem of poor generalization of defect classification by previous target detection algorithms.The designed system can use TensorRT framework to optimize and accelerate, two-stage decision algorithm to realize high-speed detection, and build the defective data cloud analysis module.

      Results The image size of the training dataset is 2 880×1 620. In the training phase, the network parameters are trained using a composite data set composed of defect original and defect clipping area images. The dataset has a total of 48 categories and 40 663 images, all of which use Labelim to mark the location of defects in the images, add labels, and finally generate a label file in PASCAL VOC format. The data set is divided into a training set, a validation set, and a test set according to the desired ratio of 8∶1∶1. The improved YOLOv5 model was used for training, the image size was adjusted to 640×640, the batch sample size was 32, and a total of 500 iterations were carried out. Training and testing was performed on a server equipped with Intel Core (TM) I9-1 2900HX, eight 24 GB GPU GeForce RTX4090 graphics cards, and 128 GB RAM. The experimental results show that both sample enhancement and improved detection network can improve the detection accuracy. Compared with the mainstream target detection network, the detection accuracy is up with 8 percentage points, and the detection rate is 95.1%. In the factory test, the detection rate is 93.88%, which meets the quality requirements of the factory.

      Conclusion Artificial intelligence is used to generate defect images to solve the problem of uneven distribution of heterogeneous defect samples. The common morphological features of the same type defects are extracted by multistage feature aggregation to solve the problem of low detection rate and poor generalization due to the different morphology of the same name defects. A defect mask generator is designed to enable AI-based batch generation of highly realistic defect images, solving the issue of heterogeneous defect imbalance; network modules such as the hook-shaped feature pyramid are proposed to achieve precise extraction of differentiated defect features, addressing the challenge of poor generalization in defect classification. On this basis, a whole process scheme of fabric defect detection covering hardware, sampling, training, detection, cloud and other links is designed. Edge computer is used as the hardware platform, industrial cameras are used to collect defect images in real time, and the background data is comprehensively processed by mathematical modeling. This not only solves the problems of low efficiency, high labor intensity and high missed detection rate of manual fabric inspection.It also realizes the classified storage, management, traceability and analysis of data. Under the same quality requirements, the developed system can save at least 50% of the labor force, while improving the efficiency of the factory and reducing the economic cost.

      Comprehensive Review
      Research progress in biodegradable polymer nonwoven materials and standard system
      LIU Lin, XIA Feifei, XU Xiaoyu, ZHAO Liutao, YE Xiangyu, YU Senlong, SHAO Yu, WU Yue, ZHANG Xinghong, ZHU Feichao
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  237-246.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250301402
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      Significance Biodegradable polymer nonwoven fabrics, with their excellent biocompatibility and environmental degradability, are considered a prime example of green and low-carbon textile materials. In the context of growing global environmental awareness, such materials have found widespread application across numerous fields, including healthcare (e.g., surgical gowns, dressings, disinfectant wipes), daily consumer goods (e.g., eco-friendly shopping bags, cleaning cloths), transportation engineering (e.g., interior trim, soundproofing materials), and modern agriculture (e.g., agricultural films, seedling bags, protective coverings). Their core value lies in their ability to absorb and utilise energy and nutrients from the environment, ultimately decomposing into water, carbon dioxide, or methane, as well as biomass, through microbial action, thereby returning to the natural cycle. Compared to traditional petroleum-based plastics, biodegradable non-woven fabrics offer significant advantages, including sustainability, high efficiency, ecological safety, effective degradation of polymers, and an extremely broad range of applications. Therefore, studying their degradation performance, degradation mechanisms, and influencing factors provides support for promoting the widespread application of biodegradable polymer nonwoven materials in the textile industry, thereby fostering the standardisation and sustainable development of the biodegradable polymer nonwoven materials industry.

      Progress Research on the degradation behaviour of biodegradable polymer nonwoven materials has shifted from single-factor environmental assessment to the analysis of multi-factor synergistic mechanisms. Focusing on biodegradable materials such as polylactic acid(PLA), polyvinyl alcohol(PVA), polyhydroxyalkanoates(PHA), polycaprolactone(PCL), poly(butylene terephthalate-co-adipate)(PBAT), and poly(butylene terephthalate-co-succinate)(PBST), researchers have prepared nonwoven materials using processes such as spunbonding and meltblowing, systematically revealing their degradation pathways in environments such as soil, compost, and seawater. PLA/PCL degradation relies on ester bond hydrolysis (dominated by lipases), PVA degrades through side-chain oxidation (catalysed by dehydrogenase), while PHA, due to its natural aliphatic structure, is easily directly mineralised by microorganisms. Degradation rates are synergistically regulated by internal and external factors. Internally, low crystallinity (e.g., PHA amorphous regions >70%), linear molecular chains (PVA hydrolysis >88%), and copolymer disorder (PBAT aromatic units <60 mol%) significantly accelerate degradation, and in the external environment, thermophilic temperatures (composting at 58-80 ℃), alkaline pH (PLA degradation rate increased to 96%), rich microbial communities (CO2 release >350 mg at bacterial suspension concentration of 108 CFU), and non woven processes (electrospun high specific surface area > meltblown > spunbond) are key promoting factors. Recent breakthroughs have focused on the establishment of degradation standard systems. International standards (ISO 14855, ISO 19679) and national standards (GB/T 19277, GB/T 40611) have covered scenarios such as aqueous culture, industrial composting, and marine deposition, with clear core evaluation indicators including biodegradation rate (aerobic environment >90%), disintegration rate (12 weeks > 90%), and ecological toxicity (OECD 208) as core evaluation criteria. However, the absence of household composting standards (only ISO 21701 as a reference) and insufficient marine field verification (field cycles > 2 years) remain bottlenecks for industrialisation. In the future, it will be necessary to integrate process-structure-environment parameter quantitative models to promote the implementation of a closed-loop degradation certification system.

      Conclusion and Prospect To significantly enhance the degradation efficiency of biodegradable polymer nonwoven materials, researchers have explored their specific compatibility with different categories of degradative enzymes (such as proteases, lipases, and cellulases) and regulated parameters of the degradation environment such as temperature, humidity, pH value, and microbial community composition. Ideal biodegradable nonwoven materials must not only meet the diverse application requirements of medical, hygiene, agricultural, and packaging sectors but also ensure efficient and controlled return to the natural environment at the end of their lifecycle. Currently, China urgently needs to continuously improve the evaluation and management system for biodegradable materials to scientifically guide the industry in achieving the optimal balance between material performance and environmental friendliness. However, high production costs remain the primary bottleneck constraining large-scale application. Therefore, efficiently separating and extracting low-cost, high-performance biodegradable polymer raw materials from natural resources has become the industry's top priority for breakthroughs. Meanwhile, the degradation rates of existing materials under complex natural conditions remain insufficient, with significant room for improvement. This necessitates the industry actively exploring innovative production processes to achieve efficient and scalable production while simultaneously enhancing product uniformity and overall quality. To this end, researchers need to conduct more in-depth analyses of the microscopic mechanisms of biodegradation in different environments, establish quantitative predictive models linking material structure, degradation kinetics, and environmental factors, and use these as a foundation to collaboratively develop a comprehensive, authoritative, and unified product certification system, scientifically rigorous degradation evaluation standards, and rapid and efficient degradation testing methods covering the entire lifecycle of the materials. Achieving a complete closed-loop management system for biodegradable non woven fabrics from "raw material acquisition-product manufacturing-consumer use-waste degradation-resource regeneration" will truly realise the harmless and resource-efficient disposal of environmental waste.

      Current research on neural transmission and brain region response of skin wet sensation
      LIU Chu, ZHANG Xianghui, ZHANG Zhaohua, NIU Wenxin, WANG Shitan
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  247-254.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250203502
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      Significance The perception of wetness is a crucial sensory experience that significantly influences human comfort and our interaction with the environment. Despite its importance, the underlying neural mechanisms of wetness perception remain not fully understood. Most existing studies focus on the peripheral neural pathways, which involve receptors and afferent neurons responsible for sensing temperature, pressure, and humidity. Understanding these mechanisms is essential for advancing fields such as sensory neuroscience, neurophysiology, and clothing design, where precise sensory feedback is critical. The value of this research lies in bridging the gap in our knowledge about how different sensory pathways collaborate to create a unified experience of wetness and how this information is integrated at the brain level. Investigating the neural circuits involved in wetness perception will offer deeper insights into sensory processing, with applications in ergonomics, healthcare, and the development of smart wearable technologies.

      Progress Recent studies have increasingly emphasized the crucial role of thermoreceptors and mechanoreceptors in the perception of wetness. These peripheral sensory receptors, responsible for detecting temperature changes and tactile pressure, respectively, work in concert to transmit signals that the brain interprets as moisture on the skin. Specifically, heat-sensitive neurons respond to cooling-often associated with the evaporation of water-while mechanosensitive neurons detect the pressure and texture of stimuli contacting the skin. Research has shown that wetness perception is not mediated by a dedicated "wetness receptor" but rather emerges from the integration of cold and tactile information. This multimodal encoding occurs at the peripheral level, yet the precise mechanisms through which these different neuronal populations interact remain poorly understood.

      While significant advances have been made in mapping peripheral responses to wet stimuli, notably through microneurography and psychophysical experiments, relatively less attention has been directed toward understanding how the central nervous system processes and integrates these sensory inputs. Some neuroimaging studies have proposed that the brain interprets wetness through the convergence of thermal and tactile inputs in somatosensory and higher-order integrative regions, such as the parietal and prefrontal cortices. However, empirical evidence remains scarce, and the exact neural circuits involved in wetness perception are yet to be clearly delineated. Theoretical models suggest a collaborative encoding process between thermosensitive and mechanosensitive pathways, but this hypothesis requires further validation through functional neuroimaging and electrophysiological studies. Bridging this knowledge gap is essential for advancing our understanding of multisensory integration in somatic perception and may have important implications for neurorehabilitation and tactile interface design.

      Conclusion and Prospect This review highlights a growing consensus that wetness perception arises from the integration of multiple sensory pathways, primarily involving thermoreceptors and mechanoreceptors that encode temperature changes and tactile stimuli. While peripheral mechanisms of wetness perception have been relatively well characterized, significant gaps remain in our understanding of how the central nervous system processes and integrates these multisensory signals. In particular, it remains unclear how the brain transforms separate inputs, such as cooling sensations and mechanical deformation of the skin, into a unified perception of wetness. To address these knowledge gaps, future research should prioritize the use of advanced neuroimaging techniques, such as functional near-infrared spectroscopy (fNIRS), functional magnetic resonance imaging (fMRI), and electroencephalography (EEG), to monitor cortical responses during wetness-related stimulation. These approaches can provide insights into the temporal dynamics and spatial localization of neural activity associated with wetness perception. Special attention should be given to the roles of the primary and secondary somatosensory cortex, as well as the insular cortex, which are known to be involved in the integration of sensory inputs and in the perception of bodily states. Moreover, identifying the specific neural circuits and characterizing the behavior of individual neuron populations involved in wetness processing will be essential for constructing a comprehensive model of multisensory integration. A deeper understanding of these mechanisms could inform the development of innovative tactile interfaces, improve textile design for thermal and moisture comfort, and enhance user experience in wearable technology.

      Research progress in flexible electroluminescent devices based on zinc sulfide
      WEI Xinjie, ZHOU Sijie, XIA Liangjun
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  255-264.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20241104502
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      Significance In recent years, with the increasing demand for convenience in everyday life, textiles are now expected to have additional functions, such as health monitoring, electronic communication, and optical displays, apart from just providing warmth. Among these ubiquitous features of e-textiles, the optical display of textiles is vital for extensive applications. Alternative current electroluminescence (ACEL) refers to a solid luminescence phenomenon, in which composites convert electric energy into optical energy. Electroluminescent devices have been the research hotspots of lighting sources and displays that are highly desired for multi-field such as displays, electronic skin, and soft robots. Owing to the designable ease for easily stretching, compressing, bending, twisting, folding, and knotting, the flexible electroluminescent devices have attracted much attention. However, the progress has been limited by the effective integration of stretching performance, input voltage, brightness, and transmittance under development in electronic devices.

      Progress In the rapid development of wearable light-emitting devices, electroluminescent devices hold a large share of the global lighting and display market in the soft electronics field, including wearable electronics, implantable devices, electronic skin, soft robots, and energy generation and storage systems. Flexible ACEL devices based on nanoscale zinc sulfide (ZnS) materials due to high efficiency conversion rate, long light-emitting life, abundant light-emitting colors and energy-saving and environmentally friendly advantage have been developed. The current strategies for optimizing ACEL devices include reducing the voltage, increasing the brightness and improving the stretchability. The stretched ACEL display is limited by the high drive voltage required to achieve high brightness. The high voltage of ACEL devices seriously threatens the safety of the human body, making it difficult to put into practical application. A series of designed ACEL devices with emitting brightness at low voltage has been extensively investigated, which are suitable for practical applications. For decades, attention has been focused on ACEL devices due to their huge market value in light sources and display fields. In particular, great progress has been made in developing cost-effective manufacturing methods for environmentally friendly lighting devices. For flexible ACEL devices, various tensile strains are directed to different regions, while maintaining structural integrity and high performance under severe stress.

      Conclusion and Prospect The global demand for optoelectronic devices maintains a continuing sustainable growth. Due to the excellent luminescence in the lighting materials, electroluminescence has continuous improvement in soft electronics and wearable electronic devices with light, flexibility, and practicability. But the following questions remain. Corresponding to the advantages of high brightness, high performance relying on high voltage, limiting the practical application, the attention of ACEL devices in the display should be attracted in reducing the voltage to satisfy availability and stability of satisfactory emit brightness. With the rapid development and great progress of science and technology, a large number of electronic devices based on the ZnS have emerged, lacking the suitable materials to assemble devices of flexible and excellent performance. Therefore, it is necessary to study the electroluminescence characteristics of ZnS attributing to develop the ACEL devices and to expand the miniaturization and visualization of devices. Electroluminescent devices provide prominent properties compared to other large-area luminescence technologies. Although many investigations have been focused on color tunability and white light emission, the limitations on multi-color display and brightness uniformity restrict the extension of the application.

      Research progress in applications of smart wearable textiles for healthcare
      WANG Shasha, LI Chaojing, LI Yan, MAO Jifu, WANG Fujun, WANG Lu
      Journal of Textile Research. 2025, 46(10):  265-273.  doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20250302002
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      Significance Wearable healthcare systems have emerged as important candidates that can seamlessly collect and track user biodata. Textiles have attracted much attention due to their material and structural engineering advantages, as well as their unique mechanical properties, scalability and breathability, expanding from one-dimensional fibers to two-dimensional fabrics and three-dimensional structures, laying the foundation for the development of smart wearable health textiles. Such textiles not only provide a powerful tool for remote health monitoring and personal health management through regular and continuous monitoring of a wide range of physical, electrophysiological and biochemical signals. In addition, these devices show great potential for applications in the fields of preventive medicine, disease diagnosis, rehabilitation therapy, and daily health management. It is foreseeable that smart wearable textiles have the potential to revolutionize personalized medical monitoring and precise treatment, becoming central to numerous healthcare applications. This review comprehensively overviews recent progress in smart textiles for wearable healthcare applications, aiming to inspire innovative device designs and treatment protocols for future medical technologies.

      Progress Wearable technologies based on fibers, yarns, and textiles offer ideal solutions for enabling multifunctional and scalable health devices. Analysis of healthcare sensing textiles is carried out for electrophysiological, biophysical, biochemical signals monitoring and discussion representative applications. Advances in electrode design, materials, and structures for bioelectronic devices have enabled real-time monitoring of variations in physiological signals. Wearable robots are a hot topic for future development of textile devices. The development of human-machine interaction and emotion recognition technologies within the textiles are also introduced. The application of big data and machine learning to textiles enables the restoration of haptic sensation in patients with neurological or degenerative diseases, as well as the real-time management and adjustment of emotional well-being. Subsequently, the types of therapeutic approaches adopted by wearable textiles are examined, such as physiotherapy include phototherapy, thermotherapy, electrotherapy, and ultrasound treatments and drug delivery. Miniaturization and excellent biocompatibility of materials are reported to be prerequisites for these functions. In addition, the article outlines the applications in various special populations. Smart wearable textiles have emerged as a crucial solution for monitoring users' biometric data and offering intelligent feedback and management. Smart wearable textiles have found a place in numerous domains, promising to reshape industries from medical care and prevention to robotics.

      Conclusion and Prospect Overall, advances in materials manufacturing technology, surface engineering, textile structural design and multifunctional integration have greatly contributed to the development of smart wearables. Although significant progress has been made in the healthcare of wearable smart textiles, there are still some challenges for future development. New materials and structures should be developed to improve washability and ensure reusability, and further miniaturizing electronics and optimizing the interface engineering of systems are necessary to maintain stable contact between the skin and bioelectrodes, thus promoting prolonged wearability. In parallel, integrating with novel textile structures, such as three-dimensional woven structures, which inherently offer flexibility, robustness, porosity, and durability, is expected to enhance performance for healthcare applications. In addition, efficient processing technologies should be developed to enable scalable, and automated production. Large-scale production is also a key stage in the widespread adoption of wearable devices. Currently, most wearable devices rely on time-consuming fabrication techniques and sophisticated equipment with limited scale. There is a need for corresponding automated production platforms for continuous manufacturing, which requires a concerted effort between the fields of materials science and machine automation. Lastly, the establishment of a fully integrated personalized healthcare system is essential to encompass diagnostic technology, treatment platforms, power supply networks, communication relays, and computing resources to facilitate closed-loop health management and remote patient care. The multidisciplinary nature of smart textiles in personalized medicine demands joint efforts among materials scientists, textile and clothing industry experts, regulatory bodies, clinicians, patients, user-interface developers, and government entities to optimize future development and integration.