Journal of Textile Research ›› 2023, Vol. 44 ›› Issue (06): 191-199.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220308901

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Application of Julia fractal set on design of Adras dress pattern

XU Han, SHEN Lei(), CHEN Han   

  1. School of Design, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2022-03-25 Revised:2022-10-31 Online:2023-06-15 Published:2023-07-20
  • Contact: SHEN Lei E-mail:502443490@qq.com

Abstract:

Objective The emerging culture of ethnic fashion has changed the consumption behaviour of modern people, and clothing products with a sense of fashion and ethnic are attracting attention from consumers. However, traditional design methods are unable to meet the high demand for the development of ethnic fashion patterns. In order to deal with the mismatch between the high demand for the development of ethnic fashion patterns and traditional design methods, a pattern innovation design method was proposed in this research, taking the Uyghur Adras pattern as an example.
Method Through fieldwork and literature research, the historical and cultural connotations behind the Adras patterns were collected and classified. The first step was to refine the line drawings according to the different categories. The classic elements were dismantled and reorganised using shape grammar to obtain new pattern units. Following this, the K-means analysis method was used to create clusters and to extract colours, and to summarise the typical colours of the Adras. Finally, Julia fractal theory and computer algorithms are used to construct models to aid pattern creation.
Results The Adras dresses are divided into skirts and dresses in terms of style. The patterns of the skirt and dress are categorised into two types of pattern composition, the "川" pattern and the "米" pattern. The "米" structure is centred on the collar or waist and spreads out around the plate, while the "川" pattern is arranged in a diagonal pattern along the longitudinal or diagonal direction (Fig. 8). The paper focuses on the composition of the "米" pattern in the skirt, combining it with the highly similar structure of the Julia fractal theory. The best symmetry order index ranges from 8 to 40. When the index is less than 8, it does not constitute a "米" structure yet. When the index is between 8 and 40, the complexity and exquisiteness of the pattern varies with the value. When the index is greater than 40, the details of the pattern decrease with the increase of the index (Fig. 10). A scientific and systematic pattern design system was proposed in this paper aiming to establish the Adras dress fractal pattern design model (Fig. 11). The model includes steps such as creating a new collection, adjusting the symmetry order index, substituting the formula, superimposing the algorithm, adding representative colours and patterns, and fractal rendering. The J-set model with symmetry order indices of 8, 22 and 40 was selected for further design in the new set. Exponential smoothing mappings, inverse mappings, Newton's formulae and superimposing various algorithms were substituted to obtain nine sub-models with completely different forms and effects. Adding Adras innovative pattern units and typical colours, the final rendering resulted in 9 sets of pattern designs.
Conclusion In order to transform the qualitative evaluation into a quantitative one, a fuzzy comprehensive evaluation of the designed pattern was carried out using a five-level scale criterion in four dimensions, i.e. color features, elemental features, structural features and cultural connotations. The modeling of the Adras dress was also carried out on the Style 3D software platform to verify its feasibility. The results show that the design model of the Adras pattern based on Julia fractal theory has good practical application value and helps the inheritance, innovation and development of the Uyghur culture in the digital era. At the same time, it can also provide research ideas and methodological references for the inheritance and innovation of other ethnic patterns. The Adras dress pattern created by this method can combine both fashionable artistic characteristics and ethnic cultural heritage.

Key words: national costume, Adras pattern, Julia set, pattern design model, clothing digitization, intangible cultural heritage

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.26

Fig. 1

Adras silk"

Fig. 2

Pattern classification and element extraction of Adras silk"

Fig. 3

Evolution of Badan wood texture. (a)Disassembly process of Batan wood texture; (b) Reorganization process of kernel shape Badan wood texture; (c)Reorganization process of leaf shape Badan wood texture"

Fig. 4

Evolution of representative graphic units in Adras"

Fig. 5

Three sample figures and its k-SSE curve. (a)Sample 1; (b)Sample 2; (c)Sample 3"

Fig. 6

Cluster partition display of three groups of images. (a)Partition map of sample 1; (b)Partition map of sample 2; (c)Partition map of sample 3"

Tab. 1

Proportion of color and its corresponding RGB value"

图像
组别
分区色
彩序号
样本色彩
占比/%
样本色
彩名称
RGB值
第1组 色彩1 50.69 (40,52,53)
色彩2 30.30 浅石灰 (237,234,235)
色彩3 19.01 枪灰 (134,134,135)
第2组 色彩4 47.48 (219,88,79)
色彩5 29.40 橘色 (238,151,106)
色彩6 23.12 杏黄 (251,215,155)
第3组 色彩7 34.56 浅钴蓝 (210,206,220)
色彩8 28.52 腮红 (214,96,114)
色彩9 22.59 深绿 (87,123,102)
色彩10 14.33 黄绿 (218,199,119)

Fig. 7

Color extraction and screening of Adras pattern"

Fig. 8

Schematic diagram of pattern structure direction."

Fig. 9

J-set model with different q-value settings for a given value of p"

Fig. 10

J-set model and its mapping graph. (a)SO index=3; (b)SO index=12; (c)SO index=40"

Fig. 11

Fractal pattern design model of Adras skirt"

Fig. 12

Making fractal pattern of Adras skirt"

Tab. 2

Statistics of questionnaire results"

艾德莱斯
特征
非常不明显
v1
不明显
v2
一般
v3
明显
v4
非常明显
v5
色彩特征u1 0 0.02 0.17 0.49 0.32
元素特征u2 0.02 0.05 0.19 0.58 0.16
结构特征u3 0.01 0.06 0.15 0.51 0.27
文化意蕴u4 0 0.02 0.08 0.54 0.36

Fig. 13

Virtual model and location design of clothing layout. (a)Dimension setting of virtual model; (b)Clothing plate and its arrangement method"

Fig. 14

Digital presentation effect of Adras skirt pattern. (a)Water drop pattern dress; (b)Rhombus patten lace dress"

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