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    Current status and prospect of intelligent development in textile industry
    ZHENG Xiaohu, LIU Zhenghao, CHEN Feng, ZHANG Jie, WANG Junliang
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (08): 205-216.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220305802
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    Significance With the start of a new round of technological revolution and industrial advancement, China's textile industry has stepped into a new stage of high-quality development. This paper provides a comprehensive overview of the development and application of artificial intelligence technology in the textile industry and explores the tasks and goals of future intelligent development. Based on the latest global developments in digitalization, networking, and intelligence in the textile industry, it analysed the current technical challenges and summarised the key technologies urgently needed in the textile industry. Typical application cases and production models were introduced such as whole-process intelligent textile production lines, intelligent operation and maintenance of textile equipment, and intelligent textile testing. The core technological challenges facing the Chinese textile industry and the development directions of the industrial ecology were to be reviewed. Ideas on developing a new generation of textile-intelligent manufacturing systems and creating an intelligent textile ecology with the collaboration of the whole industrial chain were presented.

    Progress At this stage, the Chinese textile industry intelligent manufacturing is in a critical period of digital, networked, and intelligent development (Fig. 1). The critical technologies related to the intelligence of the textile industry are developing rapidly, and big-data technology for the whole textile production process is being applied rapidly (Fig. 2). Digital-twin technology in the textile industry is applied to intelligent garment design and intelligent textile factories (Fig. 3 and Fig. 4). As automated equipment replaces manual labor in typical textile processes, robots in the textile industry have become an essential part of intelligent production. Machine vision technology based on deep learning plays a role in the intelligent control of textile equipment and intelligent inspection of textile quality scenarios (Fig. 5). Intelligent scheduling technology based on machine learning effectively improves the production efficiency of textile enterprises. Based on these technologies, typical examples of intelligent applications in the textile industry have emerged. A data-driven intelligent operation and maintenance system for high-speed winders (Fig. 6), enables data-based intelligent fault diagnosis and remaining life prediction of equipment. The "edge-cloud" collaborative fabric defect detection system enables the detection and identification of a wide range of fabric defects. Xinfengming Group realizes the intelligence of the whole production chain based on 5G and product identification resolution technology (Fig. 7). Wuhan Yudahua's 100000-spindle full-process intelligent spinning line solves the discontinuity problem between some of the ring spinning processes, with an automation rate of over 95% (Fig. 8).

    Conclusion and Prospect China's textile industry has made a breakthrough in digitalizing equipment, networking, and workshop intelligence. Significant progress has been made in improving quality and efficiency and optimizing the industrial structure. However, a series of standards system for intelligent manufacturing in the textile industry has yet to be established. In the field of cotton spinning, for example, there are still breakpoints in the automated production of the whole process. The quality traceability of the whole process of product production needs to be strengthened. Data processing and other software are primarily selected from general software developed by information technology developers, which is challenging to meet the precise professional needs of spinning enterprises. The core equipment and industrial software in the field of textiles have not yet formed the technical support capacity, from the true meaning of "intelligent" still has a large gap. The intelligent textile ecology of the whole industrial chain needs to be established. Developing a new generation of intelligent textile manufacturing systems should be based on the study of intelligent textile process, intelligent textile equipment as the focus of development, and intelligent equipment collaboration as the core. At the same time, through the construction of a textile innovative factory demonstration production model, the development of critical technologies of the textile industry Internet, the construction of a blockchain-based networked collaborative rapid response service system, the creation of the whole industry chain collaborative textile intelligent ecology, improve the rapid response service capacity, to achieve the development of the textile industry multi-cluster synergy.

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    Research progress in fabric defect detection based on deep learning
    WANG Bin, LI Min, LEI Chenglin, HE Ruhan
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (01): 219-227.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211105509
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    Significance With the development of science and technology, the improvement of product quality is highly demanded. Although the technologies used in producing textile products have undergone revolutionary advancement which contributes to the textile quality dramatically, defects in textile products such as fabrics remain to be a reality. Fabric defect detection plays an important role in textile industry, and fabric defect detection technology based on deep learning has been paid more and more attention. This paper reports a research and development progress in fabric defect detection based on deep learning.
    Progress Deep learning is mainly composed of four steps, i.e., defining model and loss function, training the model, finding optimization method and loop iteration. The research focus for fabric defect detection method based on deep learning mainly includes deep learning models such as convolution neural network (CNN) and automatic encoder (AE). The stack denoising automatic encoder based on Fisher criterion introduces deep learning into this field for the first time, which provides a new idea for the application of deep learning to the field of defect detection. Convolution neural network has achieved good results in the field of image recognition because of its strong nonlinear fitting ability. More precision-based detection algorithms based on candidate regions and more speed-based algorithms based on regression analysis are present. While the advantages of convolution neural network is exploited, other methods are used for exploring the possibility of combined use of models, and provide new ways for defect detection.
    Conclusion and Prospect Fabric defect detection methods based on deep learning in recent years are reviewed and summarized, and the effects of different models are compared in detail. Advantages, disadvantages and applicable scope of each model are analyzed, and future development of fabric defect detection method based on deep learning model is prospected. Deep learning models can improve the detection efficiency, but still have some deficiencies. In order to optimize the accuracy of fabric image defect detection, breakthrough should be made from the following aspects in the future. 1) High quality data sets should be established. 2) Specific evaluation criteria need to be established. 3) The applicability should be extended. A single detection method often has limitations, but when different defect detection methods are utilized to deal with different detection needs, the detection results are often different, therefore hybrid methods would have better applicability.

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    Research status and development trend of perspective preparation technologies and applications for textiles
    WU Jing, JIANG Zhenlin, JI Peng, XIE Ruimin, CHEN Ye, CHEN Xiangling, WANG Huaping
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (01): 1-10.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220706210
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    Significance Chemical fiber is a necessary component of human productivity and daily living. Since the 1970s, China's chemical fiber industry has developed quickly, and China has led the world in production of chemical fiber for almost 20 years. In 2021, China's chemical fiber output has reached 60.25 million tons, or more than 70% of the total amount produced worldwide. Currently, the development of high performance, functional, and intelligent textile products has drawn considerable attention as consumer demand has increased significantly. The production of raw resources, technological advancement, and the application fields of functional products are all significant variables. The future development of the textile industry is undoubtedly very important, and in order to be clear about the future development direction, it is thus crucial to summarize the possible and potential development trend of novel technologies and improved products with higher performance and wider application fields in future textile industry on the basis of the existing technologies and problems.
    Progress Currently, significant obstacles still exist to the growth of the textile sector, which are mostly seen in the following four aspects: 1) shortage of resources for fiber raw materials; 2) increase of processing costs; 3) products elevation. Middle and low-grade products no longer have any advantages, the production and processing capability is forced to migrate out of China, and new and high-grade products are being developed and produced; 4) absence of innovative technology. The developed synthetic biological method and genetic engineering technology can successfully prepare bio-based raw materials like 1, 3-propanediol and lactic acid in order to avoid the significant consumption of petroleum-based raw materials and the competition between bio-based raw materials and grain. Fiber material forming technology is moving progressively in the direction of an effective multi-flow, sustainable, green, and intelligent technology introduction. Furthermore, the fiber forming technology is more advanced to achieve the accurate building of multiple fiber structures. A greater range of applications can be met by the expansion and performance improvement of fiber structures. Application of clothing in the direction of development for high performance, minimal loss, light weight, and multifunctional clothing. Additionally, textiles have new uses in the development of biomedical materials, environmental protection filtration materials, and agricultural production materials. The innovation products are multi-functional and more intelligent, and can realize the active adaptation of structure and performance in varied application conditions.
    Conclusion and Prospect The development of textile industry and textile technology has played a crucial role in the evolution of human civilization. Today in the 21st century, the textile industry is no longer just a conventional industry to meet the needs of human clothing. Its technological development is more advanced and cutting-edge: 1) the innovation of raw materials. Innovations in feedstock technology such as the development of bio-based feedstocks have made fiber products more environmentally friendly. Pure organic polymers are no longer the only type of fibrous matrix materials; in addition, inorganic, metal, and organic-inorganic hybrid fiber materials are now covered. 2) forming technology. Fiber material forming technology is gradually moving toward an effective multi-flow, environmentally friendly, and sustainable processing process. Infinite creative potential exists for final applications thanks to the advancement of fiber forming technology and the evolution of fiber on a multidimensional scale. 3) intelligent manufacturing. The adoption of intelligent manufacturing, complete process automation, information technology, and digitalization can significantly increase the productivity of the textile sector. 4) more diverse applications. In the future, textiles could be used in apparel, wearable textiles, household textile items, and extremely innovative fields including biomedicine, the environment, energy, agricultural production, building, and transportation, among others, with the focus on intelligence and function. The textile sector has demonstrated multifaceted inventive growth that will open up more room for human civilization and technology advancement.

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    Progress and trends in application of wearable technology for elderly population
    LIU Huanhuan, MENG Hu, WANG Zhaohui
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (03): 236-243.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230206202
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    Significance In order to provide a more secure and healthy life for the elderly population increasing, innovative wearable products with the advantages of real-time, continuity, and environmental awareness are developed to support older people's health monitoring, well-being, and independence. It promises to be an effective way to alleviate the issue of social stress at old age. However, there are significant restrictions on creating intelligent wearable designs for seniors. For instance, most wearable devices are not truly created with the needs of the elderly in mind. As an important aspect, smart wearables should be made to take care of the unique needs of the elderly population. It is hoped that this study will, to a certain extent, contribute to the innovation and development of age-friendly smart wearable technology devices and provide a theoretical basis for optimizing services for elderly users in the context of an aging population.

    Progress The current situation of age-friendly wearable research in recent years is reviewed. A framework diagram of age-friendly innovative wearable research development is proposed, including the human body layer, product layer, functional layer, and industrial ecology layer. Firstly, the human body layer outlines the changes in the characteristics of the elderly group from 3 perspectives: physiological, psychological, and social attributes. As people age, their bones, bodies, and physical abilities change. They also become more susceptible to negative emotions, and their social roles alter, affecting their mentality and ideas about consuming. Then, concerning the current state of research on intelligent wearable products for the elderly, the vital technical approaches to research age-appropriate innovative wearable products are analyzed from the product level. The seven dimensions are sensors, materials, morphology, structure and interaction methods, functional algorithms, and evaluation methods, of which the most important are sensor type and placement structure and interaction methods. Secondly, the existing research on smart wearable designs suitable for the elderly population is summarized in five functional layers: physiological system, neurological system, motor system, emotional system, and spatial mobility system, and the current design paradigms of age-friendly smart wearable products are summarized based on the current development status of the six industrial ecological layers.

    Conclusion and Prospect From a review of relevant researches, researchers have paid attention to the use of wearable technology to improve the quality of aging development. However, the following areas for improvement still exist in the current research. Few wearable products are genuine "age-friendly" in design, and they do not fundamentally focus on the needs of the elderly. The design of wearable products for the elderly, the integration of electronic components with the human body and the comfort and convenience of wearing them still need further research. At the same time, more wearable products are currently designed to meet the physical health needs of the elderly, with less attention paid to mental health. Therefore, efforts can be made in the following aspects of future research. (1) The functions of wearable devices for the elderly should be from the perspective of the practical needs of the elderly and have a certain degree of relevance. (2) The accuracy and real-time requirements of intelligent wearable devices for information collection are the most important, which is the root cause of the absolute practicality of the product. (3) Older people can only replenish their power supply energy sometimes and anywhere, thus posing new challenges to the endurance of intelligent wearable devices. (4) Older users must be allowed to always wear the device independently while meeting the needs of older people who can easily and quickly understand its use. (5) Privacy and security. How to ensure the privacy and security of the elderly population during use is a crucial focus for future research. (6) Most of the consumers in the elderly group have the concept of frugal consumption, so the design and production of wearable products should be reasonably priced to reduce the burden of use on the elderly consumer group.

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    Design of variable porosity structure and evaluation of permeablity and moisture conductivity of single side weft knitted fabric
    FANG Xueming, DONG Zhijia, CONG Honglian, DING Yuqin
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (05): 51-59.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221202501
    Abstract998)   HTML20)    PDF (4666KB)(59)       Save

    Objective Human body is prone to perspiration, and requirements for thermal and wet comfort of clothing are essential. Permeability and moisture conductivity of fabrics are important influencing factors for heat and humidity management and regulation, and the transmission of fabric to air and implicit sweat is largely affected by its pore structure, including pore size and pore distribution.

    Method Weft knitted lace plated structures made from different yarn counts were prepared which formed a differential capillary effect inside the fabric to improve fabric moisture absorption and transmission. The lace plated structures used for making the fabrics endowed the fabric surface with different concave/convex patterns, aiming for improved wicking effect. 9.3 tex (384 f), 5.6 tex (24 f), 5.6 tex (216 f), 3.3 tex (12 f) polyester and 2.2 tex spandex were selected as raw materials, and the German Terrot S 296-2 single side circular weft knitting machine was used, and 9 types of fabrics were prepared with weft knitting lace plated structure as samples. The effects of fabric pores, raw materials and structure on fabric moisture absorption, moisture transmission and moisture dissipation were evaluated.

    Results The air permeability of the fabrics was found to be positively correlated with the bulk density, surface porosity and average pore diameter. Since most of the air flew through the fabric pores, the size and distribution of fabric pores were adopted to determine the fabric permeability. The bulk density and average pore diameter showed a great influence on the moisture absorption and conductivity of the fabric. The bulk density and average pore diameter were positively correlated with the moisture conductivity as a whole according to specific conditions. With the same raw materials and organizational structure, the size and distribution of pores were found to affect the tightness of the fabric. Higher bulk density and larger the average pore diameter resulted in tighter fabric structure and greater capillary pressure. The surface porosity was positively correlated with the moisture dissipation performance of the fabric. From the perspective of fabric raw materials and structure, the addition of polyurethane fiber increased the gradient of differential capillary effect of the fabric, leading to improvement of the moisture absorption and conductivity of the fabric, but not the moisture dissipation. Fabric structure will affect the moisture conductivity and moisture dissipation performance. The amount of meshes on the fabric surface was directly related to the specific surface area for fabric evaporation, and more meshes would lead to the better moisture dissipation performance.

    Conclusion The results show that the combination of ultrafine polyester and conventional yarn has advantage in moisture absorption and transmission. A fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method is adopted for analysis. Conclusion is drawn, fineness difference of yarns can enrich the gradient of differential capillary effect of fabrics, and achieve a better differential capillary effect, improving the moisture absorption and conductivity of the fabric. The 6#and 7# fabrics in process 4 have certain advantages in the comprehensive properties of permeability and moisture conductivity, which means the plated fabric with high surface porosity and without spandex, composed of loops and floating structure, has the best comprehensive performance of moisture transmission and permeability. The surface porosity with more meshes in the unit circulation tissue, leading up to the better comprehensive moisture absorption and perspiration performance. The nine schemes in this paper are easy to produce and do not need to obtain unidirectional moisture conduction through additives, which provides theoretical and experimental basis for the development of sportswear fabrics with good moisture and heat management ability, environmental protection and sustainable utilization.

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    Review of new dyeing technologies for reactive dyes and disperse dyes
    WU Wei, JI Bolin, MAO Zhiping
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 1-12.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230200802
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    Significance Although dyeing is an important technique to give color to textiles, it also depletes resources and creates a lot of pollution. Reactive and disperse dyes are the most widely used dyes for coloring cellulose and polyester fibers, respectively. The output of two dyes accounts for more than 70% of the total output of dyes. However, reactive dyeing has problems with insufficient dye utilization, excessive use of inorganic salts, and high wastewater discharge. Meanwhile, the reduction cleaning step in the disperse dyeing process uses a lot of water and energy. The dispersants and unfixed dyes which are washed off in the reduction cleaning step will cause more difficulty in treating wastewater. Therefore, innovative dyeing techniques of two dyes that can solve these problems were reviewed in this paper.

    Progress In order to reduce the usage amount of inorganic salts in reactive dyeing technology, researchers developed a series of methods to increase the affinity of dyes and fibers, such as cationic modifications and designing macromolecular dyes. In order to improve the utilization of dyes, the wet pickup of the fabric was controlled at a low level to reduce the hydrolysis of reactive dyes. The low wet pickup dyeing technologies are foam dyeing, vacuum-dewatering aided pad-steam dyeing, spray dyeing and ″moisture fixation″ dyeing. Organic solvent (ethanol, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, silicone oil) /water mixed solvent, liquid ammonia, and organic mixed solvent (dimethyl sulfoxide/dimethyl carbonate) were used as dyeing media to reduce the wastewater discharge. In order to solve the problem of low dyeing efficiency and high material consumption of rope dyeing, open-width dyeing technology for the cotton knitted fabric was developed. For disperse dyeing techniques, the first advancement is the development of alkali-resistant disperse dyes, which were created to solve the problem of water and energy usage during the reduction cleaning process. Owing to the same alkaline conditions, the pre-treatment and soap-washing procedures can also be combined with alkaline dyeing technology to increase production effectiveness. Secondly, the polymer dispersants with low molecular weights, no matter the synthesized copolymer anions or modified biomass polymers, were designed to make the dyes maintain nanoscales in water by grinding. Thus, the nano-scale liquid disperse dyes were prepared to improve the dyeing uptake and reduce loose color. With the use of microcapsule shells, the non-reduction clearing effect is achieved through the adhesion on the surface of the fabrics. Finally, non-aqueous media such as supercritical carbon dioxide fluid or organic solvents (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, liquid paraffin) are used for dyeing to save water consumption.

    Conclusion and Prospect To sum up, the development of the two dyeing technologies focused on reducing the use of chemicals and wastewater emission, improving the utilization rate of dyes, and improving the efficiency of dyeing production. The use of reactive dyes with little or no salt has the problem of poor dyeing levelness or color fastness. For the wet pickup dyeing technology, the main direction of future research is to control the uniformity of dyeing and improve the color fixation rate to the highest level. The directions that need to be explored include the adaptability of open-width dyeing technology for knitted cotton textiles to thin fabric and the enhancement of process stability. Alkaline dyeing, nano liquid disperse dyeing and non-reduction clearing dyeing technologies have basically reached the industrial level, but it is still necessary to improve the categories of dyeable fabrics and improve the dyeing quality. It still needs to keep developing the theoretical framework and supporting equipment for less-water or non-aqueous dyeing technologies, whether they use reactive or disperse dyeing systems. In the future, reactive and disperse dyeing technologies continue to advance in a green and consumption-reduction direction, which will encourage the textile dyeing and printing industry to achieve the ″carbon dioxide emissions peak and carbon neutrality″ target as soon as feasible.

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    Research progress in macrofungi and mycelia composites
    YUAN Jiugang, WANG Yingxue, ZHOU Aihui, XU Jin, TANG Ying, FAN Xuerong
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (07): 223-229.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221204702
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    Significance Fungi are neither plants nor animals, which are one of the first life forms on Earth. Fungi are widely distributed in nature, with millions of species. In recent years, with the improvement of people's awareness of environmental protection and the progress of cultivation technology, the application of fungi is also expanded. Fungi are rich in dextran and chitin, and have unique physical and chemical properties. Besides food and medicine, fungi are also widely used in material engineering. Fungal composite materials are a new type of environment-friendly material, which has the characteristics of simple production, complete degradation, durability and wide application scenarios which attracted much research interest. In order to promote the development of sustainable materials and advocate the concept of environmental protection, it is of great significance to review and summarize the current research status of fungi and mycelium composites.

    Progress In order to better promote the development of fungal composites, this paper makes a comprehensive review of the current fungal materials covering the composition, fermentation mode and application status. The main structure, composition, active substances and application value of large fungi such as oyster mushroom, Flammulina mushroom and Ganoderma lucidum were first introduced respectively. In order to make the explanation clearer and more concise, some detailed data about fungi materials were collected. Fermentation methods also have a great influence on the properties of raw fungal materials. Fermentation products could have different thickness and density, requiring different processing routes. Therefore, the advantages and disadvantages of solid fermentation and liquid fermentation were compared and analyzed, and their effects on the processing properties of raw fungal materials were summarized. In addition, the research progress of pure mycelia materials and mycelium composites was comprehensively reviewed. At present, the research and development of fungal materials still show rapid growth. Mycelia composite materials have applications in sound insulation materials, building boards, packaging materials, textile leather and medical dressings, and so on. Fungal materials are rich in chitin, polysaccharide and other active ingredients, which provide unique material characteristics and medical value, and are expected to be further developed in the future to broaden applications. There are, however, problems in fungal materials, such as production pollution, pathogenicity, service life and future development direction, calling for further study. This paper makes an objective analysis and prospect of fungal materials, hoping to introduce the characteristics of fungal materials comprehensively and help researchers broaden their thinking.

    Conclusion and Prospect Fungal materials, with good biocompatibility and no residue after degradation, have great potential to replace fossil-based materials, and their production is not limited by seasons. Particular problems to be solved have been identified as follows. 1) Conditions for fermentation needs to be optimized and suitable fermentation equipment needs to be devised to reduce pollution, as pollution and other problems increase the cost to a large extent. 2) Research on the service life of fungal materials is emperative. 3) The pathogenicity of the selected fungi materials and the possibility of insect colonization in fungi materials to become invasive species needs careful consideration. In a word, there is still a long way to go to use fungal composites on a large scale and the research and development of new fungal materials remain to be attractive.

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    Application of Julia fractal set on design of Adras dress pattern
    XU Han, SHEN Lei, CHEN Han
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (06): 191-199.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220308901
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    Objective The emerging culture of ethnic fashion has changed the consumption behaviour of modern people, and clothing products with a sense of fashion and ethnic are attracting attention from consumers. However, traditional design methods are unable to meet the high demand for the development of ethnic fashion patterns. In order to deal with the mismatch between the high demand for the development of ethnic fashion patterns and traditional design methods, a pattern innovation design method was proposed in this research, taking the Uyghur Adras pattern as an example.
    Method Through fieldwork and literature research, the historical and cultural connotations behind the Adras patterns were collected and classified. The first step was to refine the line drawings according to the different categories. The classic elements were dismantled and reorganised using shape grammar to obtain new pattern units. Following this, the K-means analysis method was used to create clusters and to extract colours, and to summarise the typical colours of the Adras. Finally, Julia fractal theory and computer algorithms are used to construct models to aid pattern creation.
    Results The Adras dresses are divided into skirts and dresses in terms of style. The patterns of the skirt and dress are categorised into two types of pattern composition, the "川" pattern and the "米" pattern. The "米" structure is centred on the collar or waist and spreads out around the plate, while the "川" pattern is arranged in a diagonal pattern along the longitudinal or diagonal direction (Fig. 8). The paper focuses on the composition of the "米" pattern in the skirt, combining it with the highly similar structure of the Julia fractal theory. The best symmetry order index ranges from 8 to 40. When the index is less than 8, it does not constitute a "米" structure yet. When the index is between 8 and 40, the complexity and exquisiteness of the pattern varies with the value. When the index is greater than 40, the details of the pattern decrease with the increase of the index (Fig. 10). A scientific and systematic pattern design system was proposed in this paper aiming to establish the Adras dress fractal pattern design model (Fig. 11). The model includes steps such as creating a new collection, adjusting the symmetry order index, substituting the formula, superimposing the algorithm, adding representative colours and patterns, and fractal rendering. The J-set model with symmetry order indices of 8, 22 and 40 was selected for further design in the new set. Exponential smoothing mappings, inverse mappings, Newton's formulae and superimposing various algorithms were substituted to obtain nine sub-models with completely different forms and effects. Adding Adras innovative pattern units and typical colours, the final rendering resulted in 9 sets of pattern designs.
    Conclusion In order to transform the qualitative evaluation into a quantitative one, a fuzzy comprehensive evaluation of the designed pattern was carried out using a five-level scale criterion in four dimensions, i.e. color features, elemental features, structural features and cultural connotations. The modeling of the Adras dress was also carried out on the Style 3D software platform to verify its feasibility. The results show that the design model of the Adras pattern based on Julia fractal theory has good practical application value and helps the inheritance, innovation and development of the Uyghur culture in the digital era. At the same time, it can also provide research ideas and methodological references for the inheritance and innovation of other ethnic patterns. The Adras dress pattern created by this method can combine both fashionable artistic characteristics and ethnic cultural heritage.

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    Review on thermal-drawn multimaterial fiber optoelectronics
    ZHANG Jing, HUANG Zhiheng, NIU Guangliang, LIANG Sheng, YANG Lüyun, WEI Lei, ZHOU Shifeng, HOU Chong, TAO Guangming
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (01): 11-20.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220606310
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    Significance With the rapid development of textile engineering and material science, intelligent fibers and related fabrics have become the preferred carriers for wearable electronics with their advantages in softness, lightness, and breathability. A variety of fiber manufacturing technologies has been developed, enabling conventional fibers with new capabilities such as environmental/physical/chemical sensing, logical computing, human-machine interaction, and so on. Among these manufacturing techniques, the thermal drawing process can be adopted to fabricate multimaterial optoelectronic fibers, providing an innovative research for intelligent fibers and fabrics. By enriching fiber structures, materials and post-treatment techniques, thermal-drawn fibers can be integrated with multiple functions such as multi-parameter sensing, temperature regulation, and information interaction, broadening the application scenarios of fibers.
    Progress Thermal-drawn multimaterial optoelectronic fibers are generally drawn from fiber preforms with a fiber drawing tower. The external forms, internal structures, and materials of fiber preforms can all be designed with great flexibility according to the applications and functions. The diameters of fibers are typically in the micron range, and the structures of the fibers are consistent with the preform rods. In addition, fiber post-treatment techniques, such as thermal treatment and cold-drawing process, can further enrich and modify the structures, giving more ways to improve the functionalities of fibers.
    With these advanced fiber drawing and processing technologies, micro- and nano-structured fibers can be achieved. For example, a low-loss CO2 laser-propagated photonic bandgap fiber has been achieved with a hollow core surrounded by a solid multilayer structure of high refractive-index contrast. The fiber has a large photonic bandgap and omnidirectional reflectivity. Nanowires, structural micro- and nanospheres, nanorods, and porous fibers have also been produced in a scalable way by the in-fiber fluid instability phenomena, cold-drawing deformation, and salt leaching techniques. Moreover, surface micro-nano imprinting technology has been utilized to construct specific fibers with micro/nano-surface patterns.
    The richness of structures and materials gives fibers a variety of advanced functionalities, such as sensing, energy management, neural probing, and information interaction. For sensing, the thermal-drawn fibers have been achieved with acoustic, photoelectric, strain, and chemical sensing. For energy management, fiber-based devices are enabled with the functions of passive temperature regulation and energy generation/storage. Thermal-drawn fibers have also been widely used as neural probes because of their flexibility, small size, and conductive property. In addition, semiconductor diodes and integrated circuits have been integrated into thermal-drawn fibers successfully, which empowers the fibers with the abilities of logical computing and information interaction.
    Conclusion and Prospect This work focuses on the research progress and application fields of thermal-drawn multimaterial fiber, reviews the regulation of the micro/nanostructures inside the fibers by thermal drawing, and discusses their applications in sensing, energy, biology and others with recent studies.
    However, there are still some limitations to thermal-drawn multimaterial fiber optoelectronics. 1) Only a few of materials and structures are investigated and applied into the system. 2) The mechanical properties and comfort of wearing of thermal-drawn fibers need to be improved. 3) It is still difficult to integrate multiple functions into one fiber. 4) The abilities of logical calculation and data management of the thermal-drawn fibers should be enhanced.
    The future research trends of thermal-drawn multimaterial optoelectronic fibers are discussed from five aspects: more material selection, complex fiber structure, textile processing, multi-function integration, and artificial intelligence. It is foreseen that current mono-functional thermal-drawn multimaterial optoelectronic fibers can be improved for higher integrations, better mechanical properties, and more intelligence. These advanced fibers can also be combined with conventional textiles to enable their functionalities, comfort of wearing, and applicability to scenarios.

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    Research progress in microcapsules of phase change materials
    LIU Wenjing, ZHANG Xinrui, ZHAO Xiaoman, HONG Jianhan, WANG Hongbo, HAN Xiao
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (09): 235-243.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230800502
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    Significance Influenced by global energy crisis in the 1970s, improvement of energy efficiency and identification of alternative sustainable energy have become an urgent need of the moprden society. Along with this, the research and application of microcapsules of phase change materials (PCMs) have attracted much attention. Microcapsules of PCMs are a type of core-shell structured micro/nano smart materials. The core materials are the phase change materials and the shell materials are organic or inorganic substances. Encapsulation technology for phase change materials can facilitate the maintenance of shape in solid-liquid PCMs and can overcome phase segregation and low thermal conductivity. It effectively overcomes defects such as volume changes, leakage, and supercooling that occur during solid-liquid phase transitions of phase change materials. As a result, it significantly reduces the "phase separation" phenomenon and improves the stability of phase change materials. Owing to their unique advantages in energy storage and temperature regulation, microcapsules of PCMs have been widely applied in various fields such as textiles, medical care, architecture and solar energy. Therefore, the exploration of their preparation techniques and applications presents important scientific significance and research value.

    Progress The clarification of the commonly used core and shell materials, the preparation technologies of microcapsules of PCMs and their applications were comprehensively reviewed. The microcapsules of PCMs consist of a core material, which is the phase change material itself, encapsulated within the microcapsule, a shell material used to protect the core material from leakage. The shell material should possess certain mechanical strength, compactness, and should not react chemically with the core materials. The preparation techniques for PCM microcapsules mainly include physical methods, chemical methods, and physicochemical methods. Physical methods are those in which the encapsulation of PCMs uses only physical processes such as drying and bonding, where the materials forming the shell do not undergo any chemical reactions with the core materials. The obtained microcapsules of PCMs exhibit good stability and controllability, and are suitable for micro-scale systems. For the chemical methods, the shell of microcapsules is synthesized through polymerization or condensation reactions between monomers, oligomers, or pre-polymers at the oil-water interface. Microcapsules of PCMs prepared by chemical methods have excellent performance and small particle sizes and simple operation. Physicochemical methods are a technique that combines physical methods such as heating and cooling with chemical methods such as hydrolysis, crosslinking and polycondensation. Microcapsules of PCMs with different characteristics and functions such as enhanced stability, small particle size and improved controllability can be prepared by adopting different preparation methods. Therefore, PCMs are widely used in textiles, medical care, architecture, solar energy, and other fields.

    Conclusion and Prospect PCM Microcapsules have broad applications. There are still some challenges and problems in practical production. Firstly, the high cost of phase change materials limits their widespread applications due to the expensive production process. Secondly, the material loss is quite high in the preparation of PCM microcapsules. In order to the above problems, the preparation process of microcapsules of PCMs can be improved or replaced by a more economical and efficient production mode. Meanwhile, how to improve the coating rate of microcapsules and increase the response speed are also the current research and development directions of PCM microcapsules. Finally, it is conducive to the promotion of development of the microcapsules of PCMs to green and multi-functional directions by combining the properties of heat storage and temperature regulation with the environmentally friendly multi-functional materials. It can also contribute to the reduction of energy consumption and the enhancement of energy utilization efficiency, which would benefit human beings and the environment.

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    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (03): 247-247.  
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    Personalized clothing matching recommendation based on multi-modal fusion
    LIU Junping, ZHANG Fuhong, HU Xinrong, PENG Tao, LI Li, ZHU Qiang, ZHANG Junjie
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (03): 176-186.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211106611
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    Objective In the context of fast fashion, most consumers do not have the keen insight of professional designers on fashion clothing matching, which leads to their capability of quickly selecting a set of appropriate, harmonious and suitable clothing from a large number of clothing. In order to better improve users' online shopping experience and help them accurately express their unique personality characteristics, professional identity, status and other image positioning to the outside world, this paper aims to achieve high-precision recommendation by improving the clothing matching degree, so as to meet the huge demand of consumers for personalized clothing matching recommendation.

    Method By studying the highly nonlinear complex attribute interaction from clothing color to category, and based on the quantitative standard of matching degree of clothing matching, an embedded model of the potential feature representation space of an item was built. By building a matrix decomposition framework model that integrates multimodal information, the shortcomings of existing multimodal feature fusion algorithms were further analyzed, and the clothing style preferences of different users were depicted. Through feature extraction, multimodal feature fusion match degree was calculated and other operations were carried out to establish personalized clothing matching scheme.

    Results PCMF (personalized clothing matching recommendation based on multi-modal fusion) with some conventional clothing matching methods were qualitatively compared. Compared with all baselines, the clothing matching degree calculated by this model reached 0.81, which is 1.25% higher than the AUC (area under curve) value of conventional methods (Tab.2). It is confirmed that the transposition fusion method of text features and visual features used in PCMF improves the correlation between features, making the presentation of individual style more accurate. In order to compare the difference of contribution of different modal information to the matching degree of PCMF modeled clothing, experiments under three different modal combinations were conducted, i.e. PCMF-T (only exploring the text information of items), PCMF-V (only exploring the visual information of items), and PCMF-TV (exploring the visual and text information of items) (Tab.3). The AUC value of PCMF-T reached 0.775, higher than that of PCMF-V (0.763), indicating that the text information of the piece can more succinctly summarize the key features of the piece, such as patterns, materials and brands. PCMF-TV shows better performance than PCMF-T and PCMF-V, which indicates the necessity of combining multi-modal information of items, and verifies the effectiveness of adding user factors to the general clothing matching modeling to make personalized clothing matching recommendation. In order to effectively evaluate the practical application of the PCMF model, the PCMF model was deployed in the complementary item retrieval task (Fig.5). It is demonstrated that the PCMF model can complete the personalized clothing matching recommendation task according to the user's preferences. In addition, the MRR (mean reciprocal rank) measurement method was used as the evaluation index to further evaluate the model. PCMF performs better than other models regardless of the number of clothing candidates (Fig.6).

    Conclusion Through the combination of IGCM (item-item general clothing match modeling) and UPCM (user-item personalized clothing match modeling), a personalized clothing matching recommendation model based on multi-modal fusion is constructed, which facilitates high-precision personalized clothing matching recommendation. Specifically, the purpose is to match a lower garment that not only has a good match with a given user's top, but also meets the user's taste. In general, the research results show the necessity and effectiveness of combining visual and text modal information and introducing user factors in personalized clothing matching recommendation and the practical application value of PCMF in real scenes is verified. In the future, the clothing matching recommendation problem of two examples will be transformed into a multi-instance learning problem to provide users with personalized package recommendation including shoes and accessories.

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    Journal of Textile Research    2025, 46 (08): 272-272.  
    Abstract758)      PDF (9383KB)(92)       Save
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    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (08): 260-260.  
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    Virtual restoration of ancient costumes based on 3-D costume modeling technology
    DENG Kehui, WEI Yilin
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (04): 179-186.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220301508
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    Objective 3-D virtual restoration technology has become an important method in the research of digital conservation and restoration of common hard cultural relics such as terracotta warriors and horses, Buddha sculptures and bronzes, but it is less applied in textile and clothing soft cultural relics. In order to better realize the non-contact restoration of mutilated ancient costume artifacts and provide detailed costume engineering data reference for their virtual restoration, this paper proposes a method for digital virtual restoration of ancient costumes based on 3-D costume modeling technology.
    Method Taking "Yellow ground silk robe with clamp resist dyeing technology" (Warehouse in the South 139-1) of Tang Dynasty in Shosoin Museum of Japan as the research object, the stained pattern of the robe were extracted and repaired by using Canny graphic detection algorithm in MatLab, before restoring the style and structure of the defective part of the robe by using the garment CAD software ET System. 3-D modeling technology based on CLO3D platform was adopted to make a digital 3-D virtual restoration of the robe, and the restoration scheme were tested through the performed pressure simulation and dynamic simulation.
    Results This digital virtual restoration method of textile soft cultural relics based on 3-D garment modeling technology was formulated by combining computer graphics detection technology and 3-D visualization technology, enabling successfully the high-precision 3-D virtual restoration of ancient costumes. The damaged decorative pattern (Fig. 3) of "Yellow ground silk robe with clamp resist dyeing" (Warehouse in the South 139-1) in the collection of Shosoin Museum in Japan was restored using Canny graphic edge detection algorithm (Fig. 2), based on which the pattern was proved to be a popular early Tang Dynasty Buddhist, revealing that the pattern is "Complex open space type baoxiang flower", the composition is "Diagonal eight-petal flower" (Fig. 4) with the center of the flower in "Persimmon pattern" and the inner and outer petals in "Double leaf pattern" and "Cloud Curved petal pattern" (Fig. 6), and the artifact can be further clarified as "Yellow ground baoxiang flower silk robe with clamp resist dyeing". On the basis of the pattern recovery, using CorelDraw, ET System and other software on the "Yellow ground silk robe with clamp resist dyeing" style and structure of the recovery, the production of the style recovery and structure recovery diagram (such as Fig. 7-8) was facilitated. Combined with the detailed size data of the robe, 3-D modeling technology based on COL3D platform was used on top of the pattern, size, style and structure restoration, and systematic 3-D virtual digital restoration of the robe was carried out in steps of modeling, plate making (Fig. 9), virtual sewing and fitting (Fig. 10-11), fabric pattern simulation (Fig. 12), which provided detailed information for further heritage conservation and the work of physical restoration provided a detailed data reference.
    Conclusion The results show that the method is able to facilitate the high-precision 3-D virtual restoration of ancient costume cultural relics, effectively restore the 3-D dynamic shape of ancient costumes, and provide reliable technical support for the digital conservation and restoration of textile and costume soft cultural relics. With the continuous progress of the 3-D modeling technology of clothing, the method can be widely used in the field of digital conservation and restoration of textile and clothing soft cultural relics, providing clothing engineering data reference for its restoration work, and at the same time bringing help to the promotion and display of textile non-heritage and the construction of digital museums.

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    Research progress in smart fabrics for thermal and humidity management
    CHEN Jiahui, MEI Tao, ZHAO Qinghua, YOU Haining, WANG Wenwen, WANG Dong
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (01): 30-37.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220705708
    Abstract746)   HTML47)    PDF (6025KB)(294)       Save

    Significance With rapid development of today's social population and the increasing scarcity of fossil energy, a huge contradiction arose between the surge in energy consumption, e.g., from air conditioning, and the global goals of "carbon peaking" and "carbon neutrality". The large amount of greenhouse gas emissions caused by air-conditioning, refrigeration and heating have also become an urgent problem to be solved. Therefore, it is necessary to seek a new method for effectively adjusting the thermal and moist comfort of the human body so as to reduce the energy consumption caused by air conditioning. Textiles can also play a role in managing human comfort in daily life, but would mainly rely on the thickness of clothing to regulate human body temperature. In order to better meet the modern day requirements for life comfort, the active adjustment of smart textiles has demonstrated the potential for adjusting the human body's thermal and moist comfort, thereby reducing the energy consumption in the process of cooling and heating by air conditioning. Under the premise of the "double carbon" goal, this has could be a promising solution.
    Progress This review summarizes the research progress in adjusting the thermal and moist comfort of the human body by using smart fabrics. The principle of regulating the thermal and moist condition of the human body through the fabric is introduced. In addition, the researches and mechanisms of the current study on regulating the thermal and moist comfort of the human body by means of fabric materials or fabric structures have been summarized. Coating or combining high-performance materials was adopted to prepare thermal and moist comfort fabrics aiming to regulating human body temperature. High infrared reflection materials such as silver and titanium dioxide, high thermal conductivity materials such as boron nitride nanosheets (BNNSs), and high infrared transmission materials such as polyethylene (PE) are proposed. All of these high-performance materials can be used for raising or decreasing the body temperature. The review also introduces the thermal and moist comfort adjustment of smart fabrics caused by different fibers and fabric structures, such as thermal fabrics made of porous fibers, moisture-absorbing and quick-drying fabrics caused by asymmetric structures, and intelligent adjustment fabric that can respond to changes in fabric pore size caused by external temperature and humidity. Finally, this review paper analyzed and discussed the current difficulties and challenges in smart fabrics with different fabrication methods.
    Conclusion and Prospect The smart fabric that can manage thermal and humid conditions of human body is necessary and the key is energy shortage. However, the performances of the thermal management, humidity management or thermal and humidity management of the recent smart fabric are directly affected and limited by the materials. Few high-performance functional materials can be utilized to fabricate smart fabrics. In addition, the main technical means of preparing thermal and moist comfort smart fabrics are coatings and material composites. However, the stability of coatings, the compatibility of composite materials, and the difficulty of industrial production limit the development of thermal and moist comfort smart fabrics. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare new fibers that can respond to external heat and humidity stimuli, so as to realize the preparation of fabrics that can intelligently regulate human body temperature and humidity. Additionally, the ease of construction, preparation, and large-scale production of fibers can reduce the cost of smart fabric production. Finally, the current preparation methods and functional principles of intelligent thermal-moist comfort fabrics are summarized, and a low-cost and large-scale preparation method for intelligent thermal-moist comfort fabrics is proposed by technological innovation of fibers.

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    Polyethylene glycol modified thermoplastic epoxy resin and its spinnability
    HU Baoji, ZHANG Qiaoling, WANG Xu
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (02): 63-68.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220806106
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    Objective Thermoplastic epoxy resin has excellent mechanical properties and can be melted and reprocessed, but its melting processing temperature is relatively high which needs to be reduced. In order to develop thermoplastic epoxy resin as textile material and to reveal its potential application in the engineering field, on the basis of studying its mechanical and thermodynamic properties, the spinning temperature of thermoplastic epoxy resin needs to be regulated by melting dispersion polyethylene glycol (PEG).
    Method Thermoplastic epoxy resin film was prepared by polymerizing-hot pressing process. The pellets of thermoplastic epoxy resin/PEG were further developed by the process of PEG melt-dispersion, and the epoxy resin/PEG filament was prepared by the process of melt-drawing. The mechanical and thermodynamic properties of thermoplastic epoxy resin film were analyzed. The influence of PEG on the spinnability of thermoplastic epoxy resin was discussed, and the mechanical and thermodynamic properties of PEG modified epoxy resin/PEG filament were analyzed.
    Results The yield stress of the thermoplastic epoxy resin film is found to reach 64.6 MPa and the breaking strain 117.4%. The storage modulus of thermoplastic epoxy resin film at 25 ℃ is found as high as 2 296 MPa, and the glass transition temperatures 100.2 ℃. PEG significantly reduces the extrusion force of epoxy resin/PEG pellets. Compared with pure epoxy resin pellets, the extrusion force of epoxy resin/PEG pellets with 5% PEG content is reduced by 870 N at 300 ℃. The spinning temperature of pure thermoplastic epoxy resin pellets is as high as 300 ℃, and the extrusion force is about 1.92 kN at this spinning temperature. With the increase of PEG content, the extrusion force of epoxy resin/PEG pellets can reach about 1.9 kN during the spinning of pure epoxy resin pellets at lower temperature. Epoxy resin/PEG pellets with different PEG content can be spun into epoxy resin/PEG filament by melt-drawing process at the mixing temperature of 290 ℃ (PEG content: 2.5%), 280 ℃ (PEG content: 5%) and 270 ℃ (PEG content: 7.5%), respectively. Compared with pure epoxy resin pellets, the spinning temperature of epoxy resin/PEG pellets with 7.5% PEG content decreased by 30 ℃. PEG also improves the drawing effect of thermoplastic epoxy resin in spinning. In terms of diameter, the diameter of the epoxy resin/PEG filament with 7.5% PEG content is 50 μm lower than that of the pure epoxy resin filament. Compared with pure epoxy resin filament, the mechanical properties of thermoplastic epoxy resin/PEG filament are significantly improved; the breaking strain and breaking stress of the epoxy resin/PEG filament with 2.5% PEG content were increased by 60% and 20 MPa, respectively. PEG reduces the glass transition temperature of epoxy resin/PEG filament. Compared with pure epoxy resin filament, the glass transition temperature of epoxy resin/PEG filament with 7.5% PEG content is reduced by 20.9 ℃.
    Conclusion Thermoplastic epoxy resin film developed in this research has high mechanical properties and thermal stability. The thermoplastic epoxy resin has the advantages of melting and reprocessing. At the same spinning temperature, the PEG-dispersed thermoplastic epoxy resin pellets have a lower extrusion force, so the spinning temperature can be controlled by the modification of PEG. The melt-dispersion process provides a new method for modification of thermoplastic epoxy resin by PEG. High spinnability of thermoplastic epoxy resin/PEG system was achieved by adjusting the spinning temperature of thermoplastic epoxy resin. The melt-dispersed PEG can significantly improve the spinnability of the thermoplastic epoxy resin, and the developed thermoplastic epoxy resin/PEG filament has higher mechanical properties.

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    Preparation of polyamide 6-based elastic fibers and its structure and properties
    YANG Hanbin, ZHANG Shengming, WU Yuhao, WANG Chaosheng, WANG Huaping, JI Peng, YANG Jianping, ZHANG Tijian
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (03): 1-10.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211005610
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    Objective The binary acid method can be used for preparing polyamide 6 (PA6) based elastomer easily and efficiently, but stoichiometric number balance is strictly required when feeding. Once the molecular mass of the soft and hard segments is determined, the proportion of the soft and hard segments cannot be changed, which limits the development of functional products.The paper is to propose a new polymerization method based on the binary acid method to flexibly adjust the relative molecular weight and proportion of the soft and hard segments of PA6-based elastomers and to provide the basis for the subsequent research of PA6-based elastomers.

    Method On the basis of the binary acid method, ethylene glycol is introduced to participate in the esterification and ester exchange reaction between polyamide 6 and polyether segments. With the ethylene glycol component, the system can ensure the balance of stoichiometry and adjust the ratio of soft and hard segments more flexibly to obtain the PA6-based elastomer. All reactions for preparing the PA6-based elastomer were performed in a 10 L reactor with a vacuum pump, a vacuum tube, and a nitrogen cyllinder.

    Results It can be seen from the infrared spectra of the polymer that there are ester bonds in the product, indicating that ethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol were introduced into the system in the form of copolymerization (Fig.3). The structure of PA6 based elastomer (Fig.4), and combined with the peak (Fig.5), six bonding structures of PA6-based elastomer were made known. The relative integral area of the peak was introduced into equations (5) and (6), and it was proved that the molecular mass and PEG segment content were consistent with the design. The contents of low molecular extractants in PA6 based elastomer (Tab.4). The low content of low molecular extractants was conducive to the subsequent melt spinning of PA6-based elastomer. When the molecular weight of the soft and hard segments was given, the crystallization enthalpy and melting enthalpy of PEG segments would increase with the increase of the content of PEG segments, and the crystallization enthalpy and melting enthalpy of PA6 segments would decrease accordingly (Fig.7). With the same content of soft and hard segments, when the molecular mass ratio of hard segment to soft segment (Mn,PA6/Mn,PEG) increases, the melting and crystallization temperatures of PA6 and PEG segments would increase (Fig.8). It can be seen that the smaller the PEG content, the greater Mn,PA6/Mn,PEG, the higher the thermal stability of the resulting elastomer (Tab.5). It can be seen that the characteristic peaks of PA6 based elastomers were consistent with those of PA6, indicating that the crystal structure of this series of PA6-based elastomers was solely determined by PA6 chain segments(Fig.9). It can be seen that the elasticity of PA6 based elastic fibers increases with the increase of the PEG segment content, while the fracture strength and fracture elongation of fibers decrease sharply (Fig.10). It is evident that with the decrease of PEG segment content and the increase of Mn,PA6/Mn,PEG, the main chain structure of PA6 based elastic fiber is similar to that of pure PA6, and the fracture strength and elongation of the fiber increase (Tab.6).

    Conclusion After the introduction of ethylene glycol, a series of PA6-based elastomers were prepared by changing the molecular weight and feeding ratio of polyethylene glycol (PEG) to PA6, making PA6-based elastomers more designable. The molecular structure design of a series of PA6-based elastomers was verified to be effective through the analysis of 1H-NMR and infrared spectra. The thermodynamic properties, the crystal structure, the fiber mechanical properties and the elastic properties of the series of PA6-based elastomer samples were tested and analyzed. The results show that the crystal structure of PA6-based elastomer is dominated by PA6 segments. With the increase of the PEG segment content, the elastic recovery of fiber increased, and the strength and elongation of fiber decreased. Compared with PA6 fibers, elastic fibers with above 20% PEG content shows higher resilience at high constant elongation (≥10%), the elastic recovery rate are increased by up to 17.5%. PA6-based elastic fiber is found to possess encouraging comprehensive properties, among which the strength is 1.57 cN/dtex, the elongation is 106.89%, and the elastic recovery at 10% constant elongation is 94.3%.

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    Fabrication and oil absorbency of superhydrophobic and elastic silk fibroin fibrils aerogel
    YANG Qiliang, YANG Haiwei, WANG Dengfeng, LI Changlong, ZHANG Lele, WANG Zongqian
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (09): 1-10.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220408901
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    Objective Silk fibroin (SF) aerogels prepared by conventional regeneration-dissolution process generally suffer from poor mechanical elasticity, resulting in weak oil absorption performance of the hydrophobically modified SF aerogels. This research aims to prepare highly elastic SF-based aerogels with excellent oil absorption properties for practical applications by using SF micro-nanofibrils (SMNF) aerogels as carriers, following the hydrophobic modification.

    Method The SMNF aerogels were fabricated by a freeze-induced assembly process using low-melting solvent liquid-phase exfoliated SMNF as precursors. Subsequently, the SMNF aerogel was hydrophobically modified by a methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) chemical vapor deposition strategy. The microstructure, element distribution and mechanical properties of MTMS modified SMNF (MS) aerogel were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, energy dispersive spectroscopy, infrared spectroscopy and universal material testing machine. Meanwhile, the oil absorbency of MS aerogel was systematically studied.

    Results The urea/guanidine hydrochloride deep eutectic solvent liquid-phase exfoliated SMNF retained the micro-nanoscale fibril structures of natural silk fibers (Fig.1), facilitating the construction of highly elastic SF aerogels. The resulting MS aerogel was characterized by hierarchical cellular architectures (Fig. 2), which endowed it with low density (5.36 mg/cm3) and high porosity (99.63%). The MS aerogel exhibited high compressi-bility (15.72 kPa at a strain of 80%) and superior fatigue resilience (over 81% relative height retention after 100 cycles) (Fig. 4). The results of energy dispersive spectroscopy and infrared spectroscopy confirmed that the siloxane network structures were formed on the aerogel surface after MTMS modification (Fig. 3), endowing SMNF aerogel with superhydrophobicity (water contact angle of 150.9°) (Fig. 5). Consequently, MS aerogels demonstrated strong absorption capacity for various oil agents with the oil absorption capacity of 84.48-188.75 g/g (Fig. 7). More importantly, owing to the high elasticity and stable skeleton structure, MS aerogel displayed excellent repeatable oil absorption performance (Fig. 8, Fig. 9).

    Conclusion Highly elastic and superhydrophobic MS aerogels were fabricated by urea/guanidine hydrochloride low eutectic solvent liquid phase exfoliation, freeze-induced assembly, and MTMS chemical vapor deposition modification. The assembled MS aerogels were characterized by hierarchical fibril networks and hierarchical cellular structures, which endowed MS aerogels with exceptional properties, including low density, high porosity and superelastic performance. Benefiting from the above features, the superelastic and superhydrophobic MS aerogel not only showed strong absorb ability to various oil agents, but also had excellent repeated oil absorption performance. This work provides a reliable approach for the fabrication of highly elastic and superhydrophobic SF aerogels and endows application prospects in oil absorption opportunities.

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    Property characterization and comparative analysis of Lyocell fibers
    HUANG Wei, ZHANG Jiayu, ZHANG Dong, CHENG Chunzu, LI Ting, WU Wei
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (03): 42-48.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211006107
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    Objective A varity of Lyocell fibers in the market are different in the product quality and spinnability. In order to understand the performance and quality differences of different Lyocell fibers and the analysis of the causes, this research systematically studied the differences of Lyocell fibers in terms of morphological structure, mechanical properties, wear properties, crystallinity, orientation and filament ratio, and analyzed the reasons for the differences. This paper provided suggestions for the subsequent improvement and development direction of domestic Lyocell fibers.

    Method Lyocell fibers from 9 different manufacturers were selected for characterization and comparative analysis on the apparent morphology, mechanical properties, frictional properties, crystallinity, orientation and filament ratio. Due to the differences in the process route and post-treatment technology, the quality of domestic Lyocell fibers has a certain gap compared with Lyocell fibers prepared by major international manufacturers. The characterization instruments used in this research includes SEM,XRD,microscope,fiber wet tribometer and fiber strength tester.

    Results Except for domestic Lyocell fibers, filament cross sections are approximately circular with certain defects and creases on the surface and uneven fiber diameter thickness (Fig.2). The 1# and 3# fibers have a small amount of hollow structure, and the 7#fibers have a large amount of hollow structure. The mechanical properties of all Lyocell fibers from different manufacturers have little difference in dry breaking strength ranging from 3.6 to 4.0 cN/dtex, elongation at break ranging from 7% to 10%, and initial elastic modulus ranging from 60 to 70 cN/dtex (Tab.3). The polymerization degree of the 1# fiber is low (Tab.3). When the capacity of the spinneret component is the same, the cellulose concentration in the spinning stock solution of the 1# fiber is higher, which is more conducive to the increase of production line output and reduce the fiber production cost. The rotation time of friction axis of 1# Lyocell fiber is 8.76 s. The rotation time of friction of domestic Lyocell fiber is short and the degree of fibrillation is relatively high (Tab.4). There is no significant difference in the major diffraction peaks of all Lyocell fibers, and the diffraction peaks of 1# and 2# fibers are significantly lower than those of other fibers (Fig.3). Most of the domestic Lyocell fibers have (040) crystal planes near 2θ of 35.5°, indicating that there are a few quasicrystals in amorphous regions in the fibers. The crystallinity of domestic Lyocell fibers is higher than that of foreign countries on the whole, and the orientation of Lyocell fibers of different enterprises has little difference (Tab.5).

    Conclusion The morphological structure, degree of polymerization, mechanical properties, wear properties, crystallinity, orientation and filament ratio of Lyocell fibers from sampling suppliers were characterized and compared, and the following conclusions were obtained. The Lyocell fiber prepared by major international manufacturers seems to have regular and smooth appearance and regular round cross section, with wet wear loss of 8.76 s, crystallinity of 78.8%, low degree of fibrination, low filament ratio (2.591%), fiber breaking strength of 3.91 cN/dtex, elongation at break of 9.79%. With high yarn strength and excellent fiber quality, Lyocell fiber downstream manufacturers have a high degree of recognition. Due to the difference in processing route and post-treatment technology, the quality of domestic Lyocell fiber is better than that of foreign Lyocell fiber. Domestic manufacturers should continue to optimize the fiber microstructure, gloss, spinnability and brand promotion to further improve the market share of domestic Lyocell fiber. In the future, the domestic manufacturers should continue to optimize the micro-morphology, filament ratio, gloss, spinnability and brand promotion, so as to further improve the market share of domestic Lyocell fiber.

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    Influence of voltage on forming process of electrospinning beaded fiber
    GE Cheng, ZHENG Yuansheng, LIU Kai, XIN Binjie
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (03): 36-41.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220204006
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    Objective The sizes and morphologies of microbeads on beaded fibers will lead to great differences in the overall performance of electrospinning fiber membranes, and thus fiber membranes with specific functions can be prepared in a directional manner by adjusting the size and morphology of beads on beaded fibers. As an important factor affecting the electrospinning process, electric field has not been used as the main research object in the process of preparing beaded fibers up to date. Therefore, it is necessary to investigate the influence of applied voltage on the structure and morphology of microbeads during electrospinning.

    Method Beaded fibers were prepared by electrospinning using polystyrene (PS). Light microscope and scanning electron microscope (SEM) were adopted to observe the morphology of fibers, and the influence of applied voltage on the morphology of microbeads was studied. By observing the beaded fibers intercepted in different areas of the electrospinning jet, the evolution of beading morphology during jet whipping was explored. At the same time, the finite element simulation software COMSOL was adopted to simulate the three-dimensional electric field, bead morphology and beaded fiber movement speed. The simulation results were compared with the experimental results for model validation.

    Results Based on the simulation results of the magnitude and direction of the electric field, it is evident that the strong electric field is mainly concentrated near the spinneret. As the spinning voltage increases, greater electric field strength in the spinning area leads to stronger tensile effect of the jet. This results in a beaded shape that is approximately circular at an applied voltage of 15 kV and the beaded fibers are bent disorderedly. When the applied voltage is 25 kV, the shape of the beads is close to the spindle shape, and the fibers between the beads are more regular and orderly. As the spinning voltage increases, the speed of the beaded fibers gradually increases. When the voltage is in the range of 20 and 25 kV, the speed of the beaded fibers increases more significantly, because at larger spinning voltages, the solution in the jet is more polarized, the charge on the jet surface is higher, and the force of the electric field is stronger. Owing to the larger surface area of the bead, more charge is generated by the electric field polarization of the jet in the beaded part, which is associated to stronger the electric field drafting, resulting in a greater speed in the beaded part than the speed of the fiber part. It is clearly shown that only the Shish-Kebab (string crystal) structure exists in the linear segment of the jet. This is because the strong electric field is concentrated near the spinneret and the polymer is strongly sheared or stretched. Gradual formation of a beaded structure is observed at the end of the straight segment, because the large tensile force of the electric field causes the jet to break, the broken jet is directly drawn from the Taylor cone, and the droplet tends to contract to form beaded fibers. The result also shows that the closer is the fiber morphology intercepted in the spinning direction to the collector, the longer the electric field of the jet is subjected to and the longer the whipping disturbance action time. The shape of the beads gradually tends to spindle shape under the action of stretching.

    Conclusion In this paper, PS was used as raw material to prepare beaded fiber membranes by electrospinning method, and the evolution process of solution electro spun PS beaded fibers and the influence of spinning voltage on beaded morphology and fiber speed were investigated. The experimental results provide a theoretical basis for the controllable preparation of beaded fibers. 1) In the process of electrospinning, as the applied voltage increases, the stretching effect of the jet is more obvious, the beaded shape gradually changes from an approximate sphere to a spindle shape, and the movement speed of the beaded fiber also increases with the increase of the applied voltage. 2) The beaded structure is not formed on the linear segment of the jet, and gradually forms in the whipping zone, and the jet zone is made closer to the collector, the jet is subjected to the electric field and whipping action for a longer time, and the stretching effect of the beaded fiber is more obvious.

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    Research progress in absorbable surgical sutures
    YANG Zhichao, LIU Shuqiang, WU Gaihong, JIA Lu, ZHANG Man, LI Fu, LI Huimin
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (01): 230-239.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221102502
    Abstract684)   HTML35)    PDF (3663KB)(260)       Save

    Significance Biomedical textiles are one of the most innovative and technologically advanced research fields in the textile industry today. Surgical sutures are one of the most used medical devices in clinical surgery, and research and development of sutures have been active worldwide. As a new generation of surgical sutures, absorbable surgical sutures are the ″darling″ of the medical community, with extremely important applications in obstetrics and gynecology, surgery, otolaryngology, ophthalmology, dentistry, and so on. Absorbable surgical sutures have become the first choice of surgeons in surgical procedures by virtue of their self-degrading, non-removable and less painful properties, and patients using absorbable surgical sutures are benefitted from having minimal visible scarring on the skin after healing, enhancing patient satisfaction. Although the development of absorbable surgical sutures is now at a relatively mature stage, many high value-added absorbable surgical sutures with excellent functionality are still in the laboratory stage and cannot be industrially produced and marketed for clinical applications. Therefore, this paper focuses on the analysis of various raw materials for preparation of absorbable surgical sutures based on the latest relevant research literature to systematically summarize the current research status of absorbable surgical sutures, promote the innovative development of absorbable surgical sutures and enhance the industrial production of absorbable surgical sutures.

    Progress The development of absorbable sutures and their performance requirements, the history of the development of absorbable surgical sutures from ancient times to the present day are introduced first. The development of the raw materials for their preparation from single to diversified are elaborated. The specific development history is shown, and the mainstream products on the market today are shown. In addition, the properties of absorbable surgical sutures, such as good biocompatibility and good knot strength, as well as the smoothness of the suture surface, are systematically reviewed. The four natural materials used for natural absorbable suture applications, namely catgut, collagen, chitin and alginate, are scutinised and the latest research in this area is summarized and analyzed. Four types of synthetic polymers, i.e., polylactic acid, polyglycolic acid, polycaprolactone and polyvinyl alcohol, are reviewed for making absorbable sutures and the latest research is summarized and analyzed. The advantages and disadvantages of developing absorbable surgical sutures from various materials are systematically studied and compared, and the analysis focused on three important indicators which are the mechanical properties, degradation properties and additional antibacterial properties of absorbable sutures. The overview of antimicrobial immune novel absorbable surgical sutures is also summarized the relevant mechanisms of action is described. Finally, the article concludes with an analysis and summary of the problems of today's absorbable surgical sutures and the trends of future development.

    Conclusion and Prospect The paper analyzes the current status of research on surgical sutures in recent years, starting from the materials used for the preparation of absorbable sutures. The technology for the development of absorbable surgical sutures is becoming more mature, but some problems still need research attention. 1) Relatively little research has been conducted on natural type of absorbable surgical sutures, and the initial catgut have disadvantages such as poor mechanical properties and tendency to trigger tissue reactions, which require further modification of the material. Chitin is commonly used as a functional coating finishing material to impart antimicrobial properties in recent years due to its excellent broad-spectrum antibacterial properties, but little research has been conducted on the preparation of sutures using chitin fibers for development. 2) The development of synthetic polymeric materials has provided more possibilities for the preparation of new absorbable surgical sutures. However, the degradation cycles of various materials are different, resulting in a mismatch between wound healing time and suture degradation time, which affects wound healing. Therefore, the controlled degradation of synthetic polymers is particularly important, so the research of absorbable sutures made of synthetic polymers should be enhanced in terms of the regulation of degradation properties. 3) Wound infection is a persistent problem in surgical procedures, and therefore the development of absorbable surgical sutures with excellent antimicrobial properties is the main theme in suture preparation. Tthe selection of suitable antimicrobial agents, the enhancement of antimicrobial agent loading fastness, and the long-lasting and stable action of antimicrobial agents are issues requiring future research attention.

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    Preparation and performance evaluation of weft knitted ironing-free shirt fabric based on cotton/shape memory spandex
    WANG Yaqian, WAN Ailan, ZENG Deng
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 125-131.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211202701
    Abstract679)   HTML10)    PDF (3153KB)(96)       Save

    Objective Although the existing cotton shirt fabrics offer good comfort and breathability, it is difficult to meet the dimensional stability requirements for shirt end-use. It is often necessary to finish the cotton shirt fabrics for shape retention without the need of ironing. Such finishing technique often uses chemical reagents for treatment, which will not only affect the comfort and softness of cotton shirt fabrics, but also remain some chemical substances in the fabric. This paper aims to improve the wrinkle recovery performance of weft knitted cotton shirt fabrics by incorporating shape memory spandes fibers.

    Method In order to improve the wrinkle recovery performance of weft knitted cotton shirt fabrics, plain, single bead and double bead fabrics were knitted by using a cotton yarn incorporating temperature-sensitive shape memory spandex. Three different predetermined temperature treatments were carried out on the fabrics. The transition temperature and shape memory performance of shape memory spandex yarn were characterized, and the wrinkle recovery, shape memory performance, elastic recovery performance and shrinkage performance of the fabrics were evaluated.

    Results The results showed that when the temperature reached 32.45 ℃ and above, the shape memory function of shape memory spandex could be triggered by the body temperature. The deformation fixation rate of shape memory spandex was 93.5%, and the shape recovery rate was 91.0%, indicating good shape memory performance of the spandex fiber and the effectiveness of the shape memory spandex in improving wrinkle recovery angle and elastic recovery rate of weft knitted shirt fabric. When the content of shape memory spandex was 8.4%, the wrinkle recovery angle and elastic recovery rate were increased by 20.5% and 14.35%, respectively. The properties of fabrics with different pre-determined temperatures were also found different, and the fabrics at pre-determined temperature of 195 ℃ demonstrated the best dimensional stability.

    Conclusion The human body temperature is used as the triggering temperature of shape memory spandex to trigger the characteristics of shape memory spandex, so that the weft knitted cotton shirt can be automatically smoothed after wearing, achieving the iron-free effect and providing a reference for the development of shirt fabric.

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    Preparation of cellulose/carbon nanotube composite fiber and its functional applications
    PU Haihong, HE Pengxin, SONG Baiqing, ZHAO Dingying, LI Xinfeng, ZHANG Tianyi, MA Jianhua
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (01): 79-86.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211007408
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    Objective Although cellulose fiber has advantages in high moisture absorption, good wearing comfort and low cost, its applications are limited due to its singular function and poor mechanical properties. The introduction of functional materials to give cellulose good electrical conductivity is significant to expand its applications. This research worked to disperse carboxyl-modified carbon nanotubes (CNT) evenly in the cellulose spinning dope so as to achieve high strength and good electrical conductivity of the modified cellulose fibers.
    Method In the experiment, carboxyl-modified CNT was dispersed well in sodium hydroxide/urea solution, which can dissolve cellulose at a low temperature (-10 ℃). The composite fibers with different CNT contents (mass fractions of 5%, 10%, 15%, and 20%) were prepared by a laboratory wet spinning device. Meanwhile, the microstructure, mechanical properties and electrical properties of the composite fibers were characterized by scanning electron microscope, X-ray diffractometer,infrared spectrometer,mechanical property tests, and multimeter.
    Results When the composite fibers were prepared by wet spinning, CNT maintained directional alignment because of the powerful shearing effect, which effectively improved the performance of the fiber. The surface of the cellulose fiber was smooth, while CNT was uniformly distributed along the radial direction of the composite fiber. It can be seen from the cross-sectional structure that the obtained fibers were dense when a large amount of CNT was encapsulated in the cellulose matrix to form a composite structure(Fig.4). In addition, the XRD and FT-IR spectra (Fig.5, Fig.6) indicated that hydrogen bonding interactions formed linkage between the CNT and cellulose molecular chains. The oriented structure of CNT and the hydrogen bonding interaction with the cellulose molecular chains benefited the composite fiber's mechanical properties. The stress-strain curves of the composite fibers with cellulose/CNT (C/CNT) show that the addition of CNT significantly improved the strength and stiffness of the composite fibers(Fig.7). The breaking strength was 165 MPa when the mass fraction of CNT was 20%, representing an improvement compared to the pure cellulose fiber. In addition, the composite fiber demonstrated electrical resistance of 100,3 kΩ when the mass fraction of CNT was 10%, 20%. Based on cellulose's moisture-absorbing and swelling properties, the composite fiber was further applied to the field of humidity sensing. The composite fiber exhibits excellent humidity sensitivity at room temperature, both air blowing and water immersion of the fiber resulted in detectable resistance changes (Fig.8). The electrothermal performance test revealed that the C/CNT composite fiber with a 20% CNT mass fraction exhibited excellent electrical heating performance. The temperature of the specimen rose to 62.3 ℃ within 15 s when the voltage was increased to 30 V (Fig.9).
    Conclusion A homogeneous and stable spinning solution was prepared by virtue of the fact that carbon nanotubes can be well dissolved in sodium hydroxide/urea. The C/CNT composite fibers were prepared by wet spinning. Compared with the original cellulose fiber, the good dispersion and the enhanced interface provided the composite fiber with superior mechanical properties. Combined with the scalability of the wet spinning process and the versatility of flexible conductive fibers, the related work reported in this paper provides a reference for the development and design of lightweight and flexible sensing fabrics in wearable electronics.

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    Research progress of biomimetic structural color technology and its application in textile field
    SHI Zhicheng, ZHANG Yu, YU Hong, MA Guiling, CHEN Fengxiang, XU Weilin
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (08): 241-249.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230800402
    Abstract643)   HTML21)    PDF (3829KB)(69)       Save

    Significance The conventional printing and dyeing sector of the textile industry is known to face serious problems with environmental pollution, excessive energy consumption, and other obstacles, and there is hence an urgent need to promote green reforms for sustainable development of the textile industry. The capacity of structural color to provide textile substrate coloring without the use of chemical colorants like dyes and pigments, which is one breakthrough in addressing the current high pollution of dyeing. As a result, the textile printing and dyeing industry may become more competitive, sustainable, and profitable. This paper will look into the production of structural color fibers, their use in the textile industry, and potential future applications for structural colors.

    Progress Structural colors are produced by the physical interaction of periodic structures with light and differ from chemical or pigment coloring due to fundamental differences in their respective mechanisms. The surface morphology and interior microstructure of the materials affect the hue and brightness of structural colors, which offer a lot of potential for creating fiber versatility. Dyeing fabrics using photonic crystals not only provides the fabric a structural color but also adds other features like responsiveness and hydrophobicity. Polystyrene (PS), polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) and silicon dioxide (SiO2) spheres are typical materials for obtaining structural colors. Inert black carbon fibers may be made multicolored using one of the most efficient processes for creating structural colors, ALD. The colors have high washing resistance, which gives the carbon fibers a hydrophobic quality. At present, spraying/scraping, vertical deposition, gravity deposition, dip-coating, layer-by-layer self-assembly, electrophoretic deposition, electrospinning, magnetic sputtering, and atomic layer deposition are available for the preparation of structural color fibers. Based on these methods, researchers have made efforts to explore the applications of structural colors, especially in the fields of textile printing and dyeing, smart wearables, smart textiles and sensors.

    Conclusion and Prospect This review analyzed the formation mechanism of structural coloring, systematically summarized the current main preparation methods of structural coloring fibers, and further explored the multidimensional applications of structural coloring in the textile field. The future development of the textile industry will be centered on eco-friendly green industrial technologies, and it is an inevitable trend to use structural colors to dye textile materials and provide them with a variety of applications. While ushering in new development opportunities, structural color is also facing some great challenges, mainly including the urgent need for new technologies to improve the color richness and mechanical, the development of new structural color materials, and breakthroughs in the scale of the preparation technology to improve the product ecology. With the in-depth research on structural colors and the continuous progress of preparation technology, the application scenarios of structural colors in many fields, such as material science, biomedicine, textiles and more. Structural color is expected to become an indispensable part of life.

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    Preparation and sensing response characterization of polydopamine modified reduced graphene oxide/polypyrrole conductive fabrics
    WAN Ailan, SHEN Xinyan, WANG Xiaoxiao, ZHAO Shuqiang
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (01): 156-163.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210601908
    Abstract639)   HTML24)    PDF (10204KB)(196)       Save

    Objective Conductive fabric can be easily fabricated into smart clothes comfortable to wear. However, a common problem is that a large mismatch in mechanical properties between the conductive layer and the fabric substrate affects the performance of the flexible sensors. In order to improve the interfacial adhesion between the conductive layer and fabric, and construct an effective contact conductive network to obtain excellent sensing response characteristics, a reduced graphene oxide (RGO) and polypyrrole (PPy) flexible sensor was prepared by surface modification of polyester-spandex knitted fabric with polydopamine (PDA).
    Method A knitted fabric substrate was modified by PDA, a PDA-RGO fabric was prepared by impregnation-drying and chemical reduction, and PPy was self-assembled on the PDA-RGO fabric via in-situ polymerization. The PDA modified RGO/PPy conductive fabric sensor was characterized and analyzed by Fourier infrared spectrometry (FT-IR), X-ray diffraction (XRD), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), a self-made KTC sensor box, a four-probe square resistance tester, a Martindale abrasion and pilling tester and a universal tensile testing machine.
    Results The PDA fabric, PDA-RGO fabric, PDA-RGO/PPy fabric and RGO/PPy fabric were prepared. A comparative study of the influence of PDA modification on the electrical conductivity and sensing properties of knitted fabrics was then carried out. The results indicated that the PDA filled the gaps among the yarns of the knitted fabric and improved the continuity of the conductive layer. The square resistance of the conductive fabrics showed that PDA enhanced the conductivity of the conductive fabric. The square resistance of the PDA-RGO/PPy fabric was about 0.08 kΩ/□. The PDA-modified knitted fabric had a strong adsorption to the conductive layer. RGO and PPy had a synergistic effect on the electrical properties, and the conductive fabrics containing RGO/PPY had better conductivity than fabrics with a single conductive component. The conductive layer of the PDA-modified RGO/PPY fabric had increased interfacial bonding by virtue of the bonding of the PDA. The change in resistance after rubbing was smaller for the PDA-RGO/PPy fabric than for the RGO/PPy fabric (Fig.5). The study of fabric sensing characteristics showed that PDA-RGO/PPy fabric had better sensing properties than RGO/PPy fabric. The stretching range of the PDA-RGO/PPy fabric flexible sensor was 0%~130%, the sensitivity was increased to 39.1, and the response time was 0.06 s. Moreover, the peak value of the relative change of resistance of PDA-RGO/PPy fabric was essentially the same for different stretching rate (Fig.6), proving the accuracy of this flexible sensor. This phenomenon can be explained by the fact that PDA deformed the conductive layer synchronously with the fabric substrate. The PDA-RGO/PPy fabric flexible sensor can be worn on joints such as fingers, wrists and knees to monitor motions. The fabric flexible sensor captures the motions steadily and outputs the relative change of resistance (Fig.11).
    Conclusion The results of above characterizations indicate that the interfacial adhesion between the PDA-modified fabric and RGO/PPy is significantly improved, and the conductive network is constructed more continuous. Compared with unmodified fabrics, the modified fabrics has improved durability and rubbing resistance. The experimental results show that the sensing mechanism of the fabric sensor is mainly the disconnection mechanism and crack propagation. Monitoring of different joint motions can be achieved according to the resistance change curve and the data can be used for building human joint motion sensing systems. In the future, the conductive properties of the PDA-RGO/PPy fabric flexible sensor can be optimized by controlling the combination options and shape of the conductive materials for further adjusting the surface morphology of the conductive layer.

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    Preparation and application of durable aqueous organic-inorganic hybrid fluorine-free water-repellant finishing agents
    MA Yiping, FAN Wuhou, HU Xiao, WANG Bin, LI Linhua, LIANG Juan, WU Jinchuan, LIAO Zhengke
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (06): 113-119.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230506001
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    Objective Fabrics with water-repellent finishing have been extensively favored by consumers as one of the most widely used functional fabrics, and hydrophobic coatings and their applications prospects attract interests from both the academic and industrial comunities. However, their application is hindered by some major bottlenecks, especially the poor durability. Therefore, a method for preparing hydrophobic coatings with excellent mechanical stability is urgently necessary.

    Method To tackle the poor durability of water-repellent finishing fabrics, this study innovatively introduced low surface energy polysiloxane segments and long carbon chain hexadecyl at the same time. A novel durable water-based hybrid fluorine-free water-repellant finishing agents (NSW) were prepared by amino modification of silica sol emulsion to enhance the interfacial interaction between the organic and inorganic components. This modification corresponded to the long-chain alkyl silane modified sol emulsion and polysiloxane modified waterborne polyurethane emulsion respectively. The specific methods used were described below. A polysiloxane modified polyurethane prepolymer (SiWPU) was synthesized through the polyaddition reaction of polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), polyethylene glycol (PEG), dimethylol propionic acid (DMPA) and isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI). A method of the long-chain alkyl silane and amino modified sol emulsion (Si-NPs) was provided through the hydrolysis polycondensation reaction of hexadecyl trimethoxysilane (HDTMS), silane coupling agent (KH-550) and tetraethyl silicate (TEOS). Si-NPs were added drop by drop in the emulsification process of Si-WPU, silica nanoparticles were adhered to the polyurethane chain segment taking advantage of the difference in the rate of isocyanate group react with amino and hydroxyl group, and isocyanate group exhibits a higher rate of reaction with amino compared with hydroxyl group.

    Results The chemical composition of Si-NPs and NSW were investigated using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The most stable emulsion was achieved when KH-550 mass fraction was 1.5% (Si-NPs-1.5 and NSW-1.5), and the stability analysis of Si-NPs and NSW-1.5 were demonstrated using particle size tester and Zeta potential analyzer. In addition, the research also focused on the hydrophobic effects of the amount of aminosilane coupling agent in the silica sol. Baking temperature on the property of finished polyester/cotton fabric was also discussed in detail, and the hydrophobic performance and the wash resistance on the surface of finished polyester/cotton fabric were also investigated. It was found that when the mass ratio of KH-550 was 1.5% and the baking temperature remained at 160 ℃, NSW formed a complete water-repellent membrane. Under the conditions of these application environment on the surface of treated fabric with water contact angle (WCA) of 131.8°, the WCA of the treated fabric dropped by only 2.8°after 20 rubbing cycles and exhibited good washability. The surface morphology of the treated polyester/cotton fabric before and after washing was observed in order to study the water wash resistance on the surface of finished polyester/cotton fabric more intuitively, and the results of SEM images showed that micro-nano rough structures existed on the surface of finished polyester/cotton fabric. Additionally, the repellent effect of the treated fabric on different liquids was also studied to demonstrate the above viewpoint.

    Conclusion It is confirmed through the research that when the mass ratio of KH-550 is 1.5% and the baking temperature remains at 160 ℃, the surface of the finished fabric exhibits the best water resistance performance. In view of the poor durability of finishing agents, a method for preparing fully aqueous and organic-inorganic hybrid fluorine-free water-repellant finishing agents was identified, which is to combine the long-chain alkyl silane modified sol emulsion and polysiloxane modified waterborne polyurethane emulsion for the stable preparation of waterproofing agents.

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    Parametric and regeneration design of Badayun patterns
    ZHANG Suya, CUI Rongrong, WANG Zhicheng, JIANG Wenqin, XU Pinghua
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (06): 165-172.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230702601
    Abstract629)   HTML17)    PDF (12805KB)(112)       Save

    Objective Traditional patterns possess rich cultural connotations and unique aesthetic characteristics. This study aims to reinterpret and recreate the morphological composition of traditional patterns, injecting them with a sense of contemporaneity and innovation. By doing so, it seeks to infuse contemporary designs with distinctive artistic charm and provide consumers with diverse choices and cultural experiences. Currently, researchers primarily focus on the cultural connotations and formal composition of patterns, resorting to manual drawing for their reinterpretation, while lacking applications for rapid digital generation. To enhance the efficiency of innovative design for traditional patterns, a parametric deconstruction and regeneration method is proposed, enabling the rapid generation of pattern forms and color variations.

    Method This study focused on the Badayun patterns, analyzing its artistic value and morphological structure. The patterns were divided into three categories, i.e., filling, decoration, and skeleton, which were further deconstructed into basic graphical elements. By quantifying the parameters of each element, a morphological fitting formula was constructed. Modeling was then carried out using Rhino software and its Grasshopper plugin to establish a foundational pattern model. The model included the establishment of pattern deconstruction, primitive library, parameter library, rule library, and parametric expression and recombination, which eventually formed patterns with different shapes and parameters. Furthermore, color extraction and clustering algorithms were employed to extract and cluster colors from different scenarios, resulting in diverse color schemes. Additionally, automatic coloring was applied to the interior regions of the generated patterns.

    Results By combining traditional patterns and parametric modeling techniques, this study presented a parameterized deconstruction and regeneration method based on the Badayun pattern. The method successfully achieved the parameterized regeneration of traditional patterns with different forms and color styles. Using the floral element of the Badayun patterns as an example, the element was deconstructed parametrically to generate locally varying graphical effects under different parameters. Furthermore, an improved binary K-means adaptive clustering algorithm was employed to extract color factors from samples, yielding color analysis charts of typical Badayun patterns from different periods. It included the main colors of the Badayun patterns in the Song, Ming, and Qing dynasties, the RGB values of the corresponding main colors in different periods, and the color proportions of different colors in the overall pattern. Based on the generated line drawings of patterns in different forms, an automatic transfer coloring algorithm is utilized to derive various coloring effects for the same pattern. The well-designed Badayun patterns could be applied in multiple fields and transformed into product textures through a parametric platform, facilitating aesthetic dissemination and transforming functional utility in various products. It formed a new way of transforming the qualitative expression of pattern regeneration design into quantitative expression, which could quickly generate a large number of traditional pattern design schemes and effectively improve the design efficiency.

    Conclusion This paper proposes a parametric model-based design method for Badayun patterns, which can generate different styles of patterns according to different parameter settings. The method uses computer technology to achieve an integrated design of line drawing, structure, and color assignment, which can quickly and flexibly adjust and control the form and style of the patterns, compared to the traditional design method. The method improves the design efficiency and creativity. Through case analyses, the paper demonstrates the application value of the method in garment pattern regeneration design and graphic design in the digital era. The parametric model-based design method for decorated lattice patterns provides an effective technical means for the regeneration and innovation of traditional patterns, and a new entry point for graphic design in the digital era.

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    Influence of yarn twist on properties of cotton/spandex/silver wire core spun yarns
    LI Long, WU Lei, LIN Siling
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (01): 100-105.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211100606
    Abstract629)   HTML10)    PDF (4291KB)(83)       Save

    Objective The application of conductive yarns in flexible and wearable smart devices has attracted extensive attention from many researchers. The key objectives of this research included preparing elastic and conductive yarns with excellent textile properties such as color attributes, wearing comfort, and environmental friendliness.
    Method In order to prepare a conductive yarn with favorable textile properties, cotton roving, silver wire and spandex were selected as the raw materials. By designing the feeding of raw materials and attaching a positioning device between the front roller and the yarn guide in the ring spinning machine, an elastic conductive core yarn with spandex as the core, silver yarn and cotton fibers as the sheath with cotton fibers on the surface of the yarn was produced to investigate the influence of yarn twist on the elasticity, conductivity, abrasion resistance and breaking strength of the core spun yarn. Using the model of silver wire tightly wrapped around the spandex surface (Fig.2), the theoretical value of the length of silver wire wrapped around the spandex surface in the core spun yarn with different yarn twist was calculated.
    Results The experimental results showed that the elasticity of core spun yarn varied with yarn twist, and the elasticity of core spun yarn at constant elongation and at constant load was larger at a yarn twist of 70 twist/(10 cm) than yarns with other yarn twists (Fig.4). In the unstretched straight state of the core spun yarn, the measured resistance of the yarn increased with the increase of yarn twist (Tab. 2), because increasing the yarn twist causes the pitch of the wrapping silver wire to decrease and the length of the silver wire in the unit length of core spun yarn to increase. At 10% elongation of the core spun yarn, the measured resistance of the yarn was smaller than that of the same length of core spun yarn in the unstretched state, and the difference between the measured resistance of the same length of core yarn in the elongated state and in the unstretched state was smaller at a twist of 75 twist/(10 cm) (Tab. 3). At 10% elongation of the core spun yarn, the measured resistance of the core yarn per unit length was greater than the theoretical resistance of the straight silver wire, indicating that when the core spun yarn elongation is at 10%, the silver wire in the yarn was not at the completely straightened state, and the yarn elongation caused the pitch of the silver wire over the spandex became larger and the actual length of the silver wire in the core spun yarn per unit length became smaller. At 75 twist/(10 cm), the core spun yarn showed higher wear resistance. Because when the twist is too high, the torque of cotton fibers in the yarn is high, the fiber stress increases, causing the cotton fibers to be easily worn off and the wear resistance of the core spun yarn is reduced.
    Conclusion The elasticity and conductivity of core spun yarn are closely related to the yarn twist level. For the actual core spun yarns, the silver wire is not tightly wrapped around the surface of the spandex core, and there are cotton fibers between the spandex and the silver wire, causing the theoretical resistance value per unit length to be smaller than the measured resistance value. Since cotton fibers can be dyed in different colors and the cotton fibers are distributed on the surface of the core spun yarn, this work can be used to further develop elastic and conductive yarns in different colors and comfortable to wear for the transmission of electrical signals in smart wearable textiles, powering electronic textiles, and electrical heating devices. The preparation process of this core spun yarn is environmental friendly. In the application of flexible and wearable smart devices, such elastic and conductive core spun yarsn have a good development prospect.

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    Preparation and properties of phosphorus-silicon modified flame retardant and anti-dripping polyester fiber
    REN Jiawei, ZHANG Shengming, JI Peng, WANG Chaosheng, WANG Huaping
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (02): 1-10.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220809410
    Abstract625)   HTML62)    PDF (7219KB)(346)       Save

    Objective Polyester fibers are flammable with a large number of molten droplets and smoke emission when burning. This research aims to improve the flame retardant properties of polyester fibers through the addition of phosphorus and silicon flame retardants, and to prepare polyester fibers with better flame retardant properties for fire safety in end uses.
    Method The phosphorus-silicon flame retardant masterbatch was prepared by blending diethyl hypophosphite flame retardant, macromolecular silicone and polyester. Then, the phosphorus-silicon flame retardant masterbatch was added to the polyester according to an optimized mass fraction, and the flame retardant and anti-dripping polyester fiber was produced by melt spinning. The mechanical properties, thermal properties and flame retardant properties of the flame retardant polyester were characterized and analyzed by using scanning electron microscope, compound filament strength meter, differential scanning calorimeter, thermogravimetric analyzer, ultimate oxygen index meter and Raman spectroscopy.
    Results The diethyl hypophosphite flame retardant selected in this work is found to be able to dehydrate the polyester surface into char, and the macromolecular silicone enhances the graphitization of the char layer, forms an orderly and stable char layer, enhances the flame retardant polyester flame retardant properties and inhibits the formation of molten droplets. Accordingly, the amount of smoke formed by combustion decreases, and the morphology of the char layer of the samples after combustion is shown in Fig. 5, and the results of the char layer structure stability study were shown in Fig. 6. It is discovered that macromolecular silicone mainly plays a role in the cohesive phase flame retardant process when polyester burns, forming a synergistic effect with phosphorus-containing flame retardant, generating an effective physical barrier, impeding the transfer of combustible gases, oxygen and heat, and inhibiting the occurrence of combustion reactions. The flame retardant polyester fiber spun by adding 3% diethyl hypophosphite flame retardant and 0.77% macromolecular silicone, the test results for the flame retardant properties of the modified samples are showed that the limiting oxygen index reached more than 31%, the vertical combustion test grade reached V-0 level, inhibiting the formation of molten droplets of polyester fiber during combustion, hence reducing the risk of secondary combustion brought about by the molten droplet phenome-non(Tab. 7).
    Conclusion The flame retardant synergistic effect between phosphorus and silicon elements improved the spinnability of the flame retardant polyester fiber, and the modified polyester fiber has good flame retardant and anti-dripping properties. This work proved that the phosphorus-silicon element synergy is helpful to improve the flame retardant properties of polyester fibers, and provides ideas for the subsequent preparation of flame retardant polyester fibers by using different structural flame retardants from the viewpoint of conformational relationship and processing performance.

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    Progress of research and application in air-jet vortex spinning machine and key technologies
    SHAO Yinghai, ZHAO Yeping, HAN Xianguo, CAO Jipeng, ZHANG Mingguang, CHEN Wen
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (03): 209-218.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220906602
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    Significance Air-jet vortex spinning machine (AVSM) is an spinning equipment with high spinning speed and efficiency in achieving high quality of multi-variety yarns, which is developed on the basis of jet spinning technology. AVSM is employed by more textile enterprises and has a profound scope for spinning of medium and long lengths staple cotton and blended yarns. But the technology of AVSM has its disadvantages and limitations of significant fiber loss, 100% short fiber loss for cotton yarn spinning. The limitation of the spinning range can be expected to overcome by the market leading enterprises of AVSM. Thus, in order to understand the current application, research development and present problems in AVSM by domestic and foreign spinning enterprises, a comprehensive analysis of the results of research and patent design achieved in AVSM is presented.

    Progress Modern air-jet vortex spinning (AVS) technology is basically a new spinning technology developed on the base of the Murata AVSM. The key technologies and principle related to the AVS process include cotton guiding and feeding, sliver drafting, conveying, AVS device, yarn winding, and yarn packaging. The AVS device is the core device of AVSM, and the earliest version was manufactured by Murata. Later Gernot from Rieter proposed another AVS device, which is with different designs for the spindle, needle guider, and nozzle block. The research on in two types of AVS device have been made in the aspects of structure optimization, CFD simulation of three-dimensional air flow field inside of AVS device. Some improved structures of AVS device were proposed for reducing rate of short fiber falling, and for increasing the spinning rate. Huayan in Shaanxi designed two-split structure of AVS device controlled by pneumatic cylinder for opening and closing of the upper and the lower branches. The double AVS devices composed of the upper and lower branches was design to prevent fibers to be taken away from the airflow for improving the spinning rate. There are a few designs of the needle block with special features, i.e., the movable needle with adjustable axial position, or adjustable angle between guide hole and needle, the more guide holes and heating function. In nozzle block, some improved designs were made such as four adjacent spiral vortex grooves on chamber wall, three-stage structure, the surrounding spiral pipe on the outer surface for further improving the spinning effect.

    Conclusion and Prospect For understanding the main application and research status of AVS technology, the relevant patents and research papers are reviewed. The research shows that the main research content of AVSM and its key technology are developed by some Chinese spinning enterprises and textile research institutes such as Huayan in Shanxi, Jiangyin Huafang New Science and Technology Ltd. Co. and so on with many related patents mainly focusing on the improved structural design of the AVS device and its related components. Overseas large-scale production of AVSM is mainly made from Murata and Rieter. Global research is also focused on the content of AVS of Murata, and more researches carry out simulation analysis on AVS device and on the spinning performance. In comparison with the early development of AVSM from Murata and Rieter, the relevant achievements of application and research progress of AVS technology are not noticeable. At present, the nozzle chamber of AVSM is often designed as the conical frustum model, in which the working principles of setting multiple air-jet vents in tangential direction of the chamber surface for producing the swirling air flow to make fiber false twisting has not changed. Looking forward to the future, CFD analysis and experimental research of AVS device will be needed aiming at the design of chamber structures, the production of higher strength yarn and the optimization of twisted vortex for improving the performance of AVS, meeting the production of multifunctional yarns and manufacturing yarns from short cotton fiber. In addition, with the progress of science and technology, more and more automation and intelligence control systems will be developed and applied in the AVSM such as electronic yarn cleaner, detection and control of foreign fibers, short fibers diagnosis, visualization, and others.

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    Cotton impurity image detection based on improved RFB-MobileNetV3
    XU Jian, HU Daojie, LIU Xiuping, HAN Lin, YAN Huanying
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (01): 179-187.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210911809
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    Objective The complexity of deep convolutional neural network models makes it difficult for embedded devices to meet real-time online detection, and this research works on an improved RFB-MobileNetV3(RFB-MNV3) method for cotton impurity detection.
    Method Firstly, the MNV3 redundant network structure was reduced according to the construction of high-precision lightweight network model and the premise of ensuring high detection accuracy. Secondly, the 3×3 convolutional layer replaced the 5×5 convolutional layer and the 1×3+3×1 convolutional layer was folded to replace the 3×3 convolutional layer as the improved RFB module deployed to the pooling layer of the improved MNV3 to enhance the online detection speed and accuracy of cotton hash. Finally, the algorithm before and after the improvement and other detection algorithms were compared.
    Results The influence of training times, different lighting changes and different camera shift poses on the model was investigated using the test set. The improved RFB-MNV3 network model was iteratively trained to improve the average accuracy of cotton impurity classification. The specific classification detection effect under the improved RFB-MNV3 model showed that the detection accuracy was 83%-96% as suggested by the average AP values of the detection results for each category, among which the best effect was achieved in identifying cotton seeds with 96% accuracy (Fig.11). The value of the improved RFB-MNV3 algorithm reached 88.15%, indicating that the accuracy and score (the score of impurity detection under the optimized algorithm) have reasonably high stability, i.e. the model can better classify cotton impurity detection and can basically meet the actual industrial production needs. The detection results were compared with those of the MNV3, YOLOv3, VGG16 and ResNet34 network models (Tab.2). The detection time of the improved RFB-MNV3 model reached 0.02 s, and the online detection accuracy of the improved RFB-MNV3 model reached 89.05%, which is 6.83% higher than MNV3 and 8.48%-17.32% higher than other network models. The average accuracy mean combined with the accuracy and recall rates can be utilized to evaluate the comprehensive performance of image classification. It can be seen that the improved RFB-MNV3 model has a mean accuracy value that is 6.31% higher than MNV3 and 8.76%-17.72% higher than other networks.
    Conclusion The new network is improved on the basis of the MNV3 detection network, while the improved RFB-MNV3 module is combined to achieve the purpose of reducing the model parameters without basically losing the model accuracy, solving the problem that the complexity of the deep convolutional neural network model makes it difficult for the embedded device to meet the real-time online detection. The model proposed can effectively achieve the detection of lint images, while the model detection efficiency is high and the storage occupied is small, which can provide the necessary technical support for the development of embedded devices for lint image detection.

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    Analysis of silks from silkworms reared with artificial diet and mulberry leaves
    HUANG Qing, SU Zhenyue, ZHOU Yifan, LIU Qingsong, LI Yi, ZHAO Ping, WANG Xin
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (05): 1-9.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221108601
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    Objective In order to understand the quality differences between silk fibers produced by artificial diet feeding and mulberry leave feeding, and to investigate the possibility of substituting artificial diet for mulberry leaves in sericulture, this research systematically analyzed the differences in morphology, composition, chemical structure, and mechanical properties between artificial diet-fed silkworm silk and mulberry leaves-fed silkworm silk.

    Method In this study, two groups of silkworms were fed separately with artificial diet and mulberry leaves.The silk cocoons and fibers were carefully examined for their morphological characteristics using scanning electron microscopy. In order to evaluate the composition of the silk, elemental analysis, amino acid content analysis, and sodium dodecyl sulfate polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis testing were conducted to compare the two feeding methods.Additionally, infrared absorption spectroscopy, two-dimensional wide-angle X-ray scattering (2D-WAXS), and silk tensile testing were employed to elucidate the differences in chemical structure and mechanical properties between artificial diet-fed and mulberry leaves-fed silkworm silk.

    Results The silk with artificial diet feeding exhibited no significant differences in fiber appearance compared to the silk with mulberry leave feeding. Protein composition analysis showed that there was no difference in the type and content of silk fibroin heavy chain protein, silk fibroin light chain protein and sericin protein between the two groups of silk samples. However, notable differences were observed in terms of element content, proline content, secondary structure, and crystallinity. The element analysis revealed that, except for Na and Si, the artificial diet silk had significantly lower content of other elements compared to the mulberry leaves silk. Furthermore, artificial diet silk exhibited lower levels of trace elements such as Al, Cr, and B, while higher levels of Fe, Mn, Zn, and Cu were detected compared to the mulberry leaves silk. Analysis of amino acid content indicated a distinct variation of proline content between the two silk types, with significantly higher proline content in the artificial diet silk. The analysis of secondary structure and crystallinity demonstrated higher β-turn content and lower random coil content in the artificial diet silk compared to the mulberry leaves silk. 2D-WAXS analysis revealed lower crystallinity (60.1%) in the artificial diet silk compared to the mulberry leaves silk (65.2%). Tensile testing showed that the artificial diet silk exhibited a higher average breaking strain (19.8±8.2)%, while the mulberry leaves silk demonstrated higher breaking strength (361.6±97.2)MPa, although the difference was not statistically significant.

    Conclusion The study findings indicated that the observed disparities in morphology, composition, chemical structure, and mechanical properties between artificial diet-fed and mulberry leaves-fed silk were not significant, suggesting the potential of artificial diet as a substitute for mulberry leaves feeding to obtain high-quality silk fibers. The two feeding methods have no significant impact on the quality of silk produced. In addition, artificial diet offered advantages such as the potential for adding beneficial substances and avoiding harmful substances, further highlighting its suitability as a replacement for mulberry leaves in silkworm feeding. Future research may focus on incorporating beneficial substances such as metal ions or proline into artificial diets, by optimizing the formula of artificial diets and adding appropriate amounts of beneficial elements for compensation, in order to selectively improve the mechanical properties of silk and enhance the wider value of artificial diet feeding silk in sericulture. Overall, this comprehensive analysis contributes valuable insights and directions for improving artificial diet in sericulture and enhancing the quality of silk and lays a solid foundation for further promoting the strategic goal of industrialized sericulture of whole age feeding in the future.

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    Synergistic flame retardant finishing of polyester/cotton blended fabric with phytic acid/chitosan
    HU Ziqiang, LUO Xiaolei, WEI Lulin, LIU Lin
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (04): 126-135.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230403301
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    Objective Polyester/cotton fabric (PC) combines the comfort, air permeability of cotton and stability, high mechanical of polyester, and it is widely used in aerospace, home decoration and other fields. However, the PC produces heat and smoke when burning, accompanied by a serious melting phenomenon, which seriously endangers people's life and health and property safety. The combustion will produce a "wick effect", making the combustion process more intense. Therefore, it is essential to improve the flame retardant performance of PC.

    Method To improve the flame retardant property of PC, by using phytic acid (PA) from biology to provide a phosphorus source and chitosan (CS) to provide nitrogen source and carbon source, the expansion flame retardant system was constructed on the surface of PC by the impregnation-baking process to prepare flame retardant polyester/cotton fabric (PC-PA/CS) which improved the flame retardant property of PC.

    Results The optimal preparation process of PC-PA/CS was determined by the limiting oxygen index (LOI) value: baking temperature was 160 ℃, baking time was 120 s, CS concentration was 30 g/L, and PA concentration was 400 g/L. The LOI value of flame retardant polyester cotton fabric reached to 28.7%. Infrared spectrum analysis showed that the flame retardant finishing liquid composed of PA and CS was successfully deposited on the surface of polyester/cotton fabric. From the scanning electron microscopy images, the fibers in PC showed obvious dents after pretreatment. After flame retardant treatment, the dents on the fiber of PC-PA/CS surface disappeared and the surface became smooth, with a uniform coating on the surface. Compared with PC, after flame-retardant finishing, the decomposition temperature of cotton with PC-PA/CS was advanced from 377 ℃ to 256 ℃, the maximum decomposition rate of fabric was reduced, and stable char layer can be formed. And the char residual rate is increased to more than 25% at 800 ℃ in N2. Flame retardant finishing has succeeded in improving the thermal stability of polyester and cotton fabric. The results of cone calorimetry test showed that the maximum heat release rate (PHRR) and total heat release (THR) of PC were 145.86 kW/m2 and 2.75 MJ/m2, respectively. The PHRR and THR of PC-PA/CS were 96.96 kW/m2 and 2.06 MJ/m2, respectively, which decreased by 33.53% and 25.10%, respectively, showing that the coating had good thermal inhibition ability. The combustion growth rate index (FGR) was decreased from 6.34 kW/(m2·s) to 3.88 kW/(m2·s), and the fire safety of the fabric was increased. The breaking strength of PC was 50.62 N, while that of PC-PA/CS decreased to 48.86 N which remained above 95% of original fabric. The introduction of CS reduced the influence of thermal and acidic environment on the mechanical properties of fabrics. The introduction of flame retardant coating formed a stable expanded carbon layer on the surface during the combustion process of the fabric, which improved the flame retardant performance of the fabric and has a condensed phase flame retardant mechanism.

    Conclusion PC-PA/CS was successfully prepared by dipping-baking method, using PA and CS of biomass to form an expansion flame retardant system together with PC. The LOI value of PC-PA/CS increased significantly from 17.8% to 28.7%, and the droplet phenomenon disappeared, showing excellent flame retardant property. The introduction of flame retardant coating improved the thermal stability and char residual rate of the fabric. Flame retardant finishing effectively reduced the heat release and improved the fire safety of PC. When the fabric was burned, it can form a stable expanded char layer, increased the degree of graphitization of the char layer, and improved the flame retardant performance of PC, which had the flame retardant mechanism of condensed phase.

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    Structural control and spinning technology of highly wrapped core-spun yarn with thin sheath
    LI Wenya, ZHOU Jian, LIAO Tanqian, DONG Zhenzhen
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (06): 46-52.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230701401
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    Objective The wrapped effect has always been the core indicator in the market to judge the quality of the core spun yarns. In the market, the number of the wrapped fiber is always more than 80% to achieve the core filament being wrapped. The difficulty in achieving good wrapping effect lies in controlling the center position of the core wire. It is of great theoretical significance and application value to achieve high wrapping effect of yarn based on low outer fiber ratio and stable control of yarn structure, thereby improving the multi-component advantage of core yarn.

    Method To achieve high yarn wrapping effect and structural stability, this research proposed a solution by installing a filament control device to adjust the spinning process and parameters. Low-elastic polyester filament with a linear density of 7.78 tex as the core yarn, cotton roving with different quantities of as wrapping fibers were used to spin cotton/polyester core-spun yarn by ring spinning. The critical wrapping ratio of core-spun yarn was explored. The relationship between the structure of core-spun yarn and the wrapping rate was analyzed. The concept of yarn section eccentricity was introduced, and the structure stability of yarn was characterized by combining yarn coverage rate and longitudinal appearance morphology.

    Results The relative position of the polyester filament and cotton roving was controlled by the installed a filament positioning device. The component ratios of polyester filament and cotton roving in 8 sets of core-spun yarns are 75/25, 70/30, 65/35, 60/40, 55/45, 53/47, 52/48, 50/50; The density of core-spun yarn is 31.8, 25.5, 21.6, 19, 17.4, 16.5, 16, and 15.7 tex, respectively. 50 images were collected for each group of yarn with 100 times magnification, and the obtained image was binary-processed by Ostu algorithm to calculate the yarn coating rate. Compared with other binary processing methods, the Ostu algorithm had the smallest error probability and higher accuracy. When the component ratio of cotton roving was 53%, the coverage rate of core-spun yarns remained at 87.5%. When the component ratio of cotton roving was less than 53%, the coverage rate of core-spun yarns was lower than 85% and a large area of core polyester was exposed. It is concluded that critical coverage ratio of core-spun yarn was when the component ratios of polyester filament and cotton roving was 53/47. The average variation range of eccentricity of core yarn section under different polyester-cotton ratios was 8.8%~11.2%. The characterization of section eccentricity, yarn coverage, and longitudinal appearance morphology verified the effectiveness of the spinning process adopted in this laboratory.

    Conclusion The experiment provides data support and characterization for the discussion of the critical coverage rate during spinning cotton/polyester core-spun yarn by ring spinning. The computer image processing method for calculating the core-spun yarn coverage rate was obtained, which is convenient to operate and accurate. In addition, the factors affecting the stability of core yarn structure are analyzed from the perspective of theory and spinning practice, and the stable control of core-sheath structure is achieved by adjusting the spinning process.

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    Electromagnetic interference shielding properties of composites reinforced with glass fiber/carbon fiber fabrics
    CAI Jie, WANG Liang, FU Hongjun, ZHONG Zhili
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (02): 111-117.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220808907
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    Objective The electromagnetic (EM) wave pollution and its secondary reflection bring great threat to human health and to information security. To reduce the secondary reflection pollution of carbon fiber fabric composites, enhancing the impedance matching of carbon fiber fabric is a feasible method.
    Method Glass fiber has low dielectric properties; the impedance matching of carbon fiber fabric could be improved by using glass fiber to regulate the fabric structure of the carbon fiber fabric. In this work, five different fabric structures of glass fiber/carbon fiber (G/C) fabric were designed and were compounded with waterborne polyurethane. The morphology, electromagnetic interference (EMI) shielding, dielectric and photothermal conversion properties of glass fiber/carbon fiber composites were characterized by an ultra-depth of field microscope, vector network analyzer, simulated solar xenon lamp light source system and infrared thermal imager.
    Results Glass fiber and carbon fiber interweave with each other to form the G/C fabrics structure which was arranged smoothly as illustrated in Fig. 1. The EMI shielding efficiency (SE) of the five G/C fabric composites showed effective EMI shielding. Their average EMI SE was greater than 20.0 dB in the X band (8.2-12.4 GHz) as can be seen in Fig. 3(a). The EMI total shielding efficiency(SET) curves of C fabric (its weft yarns are all carbon fiber) composites was relatively stable, with its SET being 33.4 dB at 9.6 GHz(Fig. 2(a)). The SET curves of G/C fabrics composites decreased firstly and then increased with the increasing frequency within X band after the introduction of glass fiber. The EMI SE value of G2C1 fabric (glass and carbon yarns were woven into the fabric alternately as weft) composite was up to 38.7 dB at 12.1 GHz, as shown in Fig. 2(a). The power coefficients values of absorptivity of G/C fabric composites increased by adding glass fiber. The structural changes in G/C fabric composites effectively regulate various dielectric polarization relaxation mechanisms (Fig. 5), which indicated that the use of G/C fabric structure could improve the impedance matching with the EM wave and reduce the second reflection. The surface temperature of G/C fabric composites responds rapidly under simulated solar xenon lamp light source as shown in Fig. 6. The surface temperature of G/C fabric composites gradually reached equilibrium after rapidly increasing under 2 kW/m2 light intensity and decreased rapidly when the light source was turned off at 300 s and this was demonstrated in Fig. 6(a). With the increase of glass fiber content, their surface equilibrium temperature was decreased, which is consistent with the results of the SET. The fabric structure of G1C1 fabric composite was clear, indicating its rapid response to the light. The equilibrium temperature of G1C1, as shown in Fig. 6(a), reached 71.8 ℃ at 300 s under 2 kW/m2 light intensity. In addition, the time-temperature curves of G1C1 fabric composite under different light intensities (1,1.5,2 kW/m2) showed that the equilibrium temperature (average temperature from 200 s to 300 s) |ΔT1|,|ΔT2| and |ΔT3| were 8.0, 20.6 and 28.6 ℃, respectively. It is indicated that G/C fabric composites have significant differences in response to different light intensities. Light is also a type of electromagnetic wave. It can be inferred that G/C fabric composite material can quickly convert the energy of electromagnetic wave into joule heat dissipation to achieve excellent electromagnetic shielding performance.
    Conclusion In this work, five G/C fabric composites were fabricated, each possessing efficient EMI shielding and photothermal conversion properties. The dielectric properties of G/C fabric composites were adjustable by structural parameters of G/C fabrics, and the research results demonstrated that such composites could effectively regulate various dielectric polarization relaxation mechanisms. The impedance matching performance of G/C fabric composites increased to match that of the electromagnetic waves and the secondary reflection of the EM wave was reduced. The method of designing fabric structure has great application potential in EMI shielding materials.

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    Research progress in zinc and copper containing wound dressings
    QIN Yimin
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 213-219.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211101502
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    Significance In order to develop the applications of functional zinc and copper containing fibers and wound dressings in the management of chronic wounds, this paper introduced the bioactivities of zinc and copper ions and their roles in the wound healing process, and summarized the types and production methods of zinc and copper containing wound dressings in the domestic and international market, in particular zinc and copper containing alginate fibers, chitosan fibers, and the various types of zinc and copper containing wound dressings and their ion releasing properties obtained by electrospinning, polymeric composites, nano technologies and other advanced processing methods. Both zinc and copper ions possess antimicrobial efficacy and are known to be able to promote wound healing. The incorporation of these two metal ions by the techniques reviewed in this paper can help manufacturers and medical practitioners in the wound management industry to fully utilize the novel health benefitting properties of zinc and copper ions.

    Progress Both zinc and copper ions have been used in the wound management industry for a long time by many forms of applications. Recent progresses are mainly focused in the sustainable release of zinc and copper ions by combining these two ions with alginate, chitosan and other novel substrate materials, and also by the use of nanoparticles of zinc oxide and copper oxide. The incorporation of zinc ions into alginate fibers and the subsequent release of zinc ions when in contact with aqueous solutions containing different levels of protein were summarized. The composition and properties of many types of zinc containing wound dressings reported in the documents were summarized. Regarding copper containing wound dressings, important progress has been made by incorporating copper oxide into fibers by blending and the subsequent extrusion to form copper containing fibers. In addition, copper ions can be absorbed into various types of alginate fibers that can be released when these fibers are in contact with aqueous solutions similar to wound exudate. Many other methods have been used in the documents to load and release copper ions from the base materials of wound dressings. The combination of zinc and copper ions with wound dressings have demonstrated important clinical benefits by accelerating the healing of burns and chronic wounds. Zinc and copper containing fibers and wound dressings possess antimicrobial properties similar to silver containing fibers and wound dressings.

    Conclusion and Prospect Zinc and copper ions are minor metal ions present in the human body and are closely involved in the function of many enzymes during the wound healing process. The loss of zinc ions are well known for the delayed healing of burn wounds. Copper ions are also shown to be able to promote the healing of chronic wounds such as leg ulcers and pressure sores. The overall results of this review showed that zinc and copper ions have excellent antimicrobial properties and can promote wound healing. Experimental results have confirmed that zinc and copper containing wound dressings have strong antibactenal effect against the various types of bacteria commonly present in wounds, and these dressings are highly useful in the management of leg ulcer, pressure sore, diabetic foot ulcer, burn and other types of wounds. Looking into the future, much research and development work is still needed to clarify the wound healing mechanism of these two metal ions. In addition, clinical research and formal clinical trials are also required to validate the clinical efficacy of zinc and copper containing wound dressings before these products can be commercialized. Regulatory approval procedures are also needed through the collaborative efforts of researchers, manufacturers, regulatory bodies and medical practioners around the world.

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    Research progress in preparation and application of conductive yarn materials
    LI Long, ZHANG Xian, WU Lei
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (07): 214-221.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211105002
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    Significance The good conductivity of the material is the basis of manufacturing smart wearable devices. Because textile material is light, soft and good in air permeability and shape adaptability, textile-based flexible smart wearable devices have been attracting extensive attention from researchers. In recent years, the researchers have been using various techniques to integrate conductive materials with textile materials for manufacturing textile flexible intelligent wearable device for real-time monitoring of human health, friction power generation, personal thermal management, energy storage and so on. Conductive yarn is one of textile intelligent wearable materials, in order to further study the low-resistance and multi-performance conductive yarn for smart wearable devices, textile yarns was taken as the object. The methods of preparing conductive yarn materials were reviewed in relation to spinning technology, coating, coating combined with spinning technology and electrostatic spinning technology and application of the conductive yarns in electromagnetic protection, sensing device, energy storage device, transmission and power supply, artificial muscle, electric heating and thermal management device in recent years.

    Progress The advantages and disadvantages of conductive preparation methods are analyzed. Both conventional textile fibers and conductive fibers are spun into yarns by blending or wrapping using spinning technology, which can produce conductive yarns in batches. Besides, the yarn has excellent textile characteristics. However the conductive yarn is seldom used in resistance strain sensing. It is difficult for the mass production of conductive yarn prepared by coating technology, and the yarn has poor performance stability and poor weaving property, the preparation process is complicated and coating waste liquid may cause environmental pollution. Compared with the spinning technology, the method of preparing conductive yarn by coating is flexible, and the yarn has wide application. The auxiliary technology of electrostatic spinning nanofibers plays an important role in developing conductive yarns, and the conductive yarn with sheath-core structure prepared by electrostatic spinning technology overcomes some problems existing in conventional conductive coating. However, it is difficult to mass-produce conductive yarn by this method. The conductive yarn prepared by coating combined with spinning technology has good textile characteristics, but the conductive coating waste liquid of textile fiber materials may also cause environmental pollution.

    Conclusion and Prospect The future research and development trends of conductive yarn materials are proposed by combining the performance stability and the environmental safety of conductive yarn in its life cycle. It is proposed that the stability and service life of sensing performance under large strain needs to be further improved for the conductive yarn prepared used for resistance strain sensor. The conductive yarn needs additional flame retardant function,elasticity function and flexibility for their use in electric heating products so as to improve the use safety and wearing comfort. It is necessary to further study the change law of yarn conductivity under special environmental conditions (such as wet environment, high temperature environment, low temperature environment), so as to develop textile-based flexible smart wearable devices to be used in different temperature and humidity environments. It is still a research focus to develop conductive yarn materials with textile characteristics and lower linear resistance and good linear resistance uniformity. In order to popularize the practical application of textile flexible intelligent wearable devices, a development goal is that the whole life cycle of manufacturing, using and discarding of the conductive yarn has no negative impact on human health and environment. It is necessary to further optimize the structure of conductive yarn and innovate the integration technology of conductive materials and textile fiber materials, and improve the durability, sensibility, weaving property, biodegradability and mass production capacity of the conductive yarn.

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    Projectile penetration mechanism of ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene fabric/polyurea flexible composites
    LIU Dongyan, ZHENG Chengyan, WANG Xiaoxu, QIAN Kun, ZHANG Diantang
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (03): 79-87.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220303809
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    Objective Fragmented pieces resulted from explosion on doors, windows and walls are hidden dangers threatening people's life and safety. At present, the explosion-proof equipment is used for high-efficiency, high-speed and large-area protection. Ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) fabric/polyurea flexible composites received much attention recently owing to their low density, high performance, flexibility, corrosion resistance, outstanding intrusion resistance and portability. Therefore, it is important to understand the damage mechanism of UHMWPE fabric/polyurea flexible composites under the high-speed impact of broken fragments for engineering applications.

    Method 15 mm angle-interlocked monolithic fabrics and laminated plain fabrics (single layer thickness of 0.39 mm, 40 layers) were used in this research. Flexible composites were manufactured by surface spraying with polyurea, named 2D-C and 3D-C, respectively. A 1.1 g wedge-headed cylindrical projectile was adopted to impact on the two types of UHMWPE fabric/polyurea flexible composites to obtain the ballistic limiting velocity V50, the specific energy absorption (SEA) and the backface deformation. Based on this, surface and internal damage morphology studies were carried out to reveal the intrusion damage mechanism.

    Results In case of equal thickness, 3D-C panel demonstrates greater V50 and SEA values and a wider overall area of deformation on the backface with greater depth of backface signature. This is related to the fact that the binding warp yarns in the angle-interlock fabrics can transmit stress waves in the thick direction. In addition, the damage to the polyurea surface is minor for both types of composites. At the same time, computed tomo-graphy (CT) scans were carried out in the warp, weft, and thick directions of the local areas of the non-penetrating bullet holes of the two types of composites to study the penetration process and damage patterns in the non-penetrating state. In the thickness direction, the annular stripes near the 3D-C bullet holes is relatively denser and more pronounced, which is related to the fact that shock waves propagate faster in angle-interlock fabrics and that more yarns are involved in the energy dissipation. Cross-sectional profiles of 2D-C and 3D-C illustrate that 2D-C damage areas are dominated by massive fiber compression shear damage in both the warp and weft cross-sections at the upper end of the bullet hole. The compression shear damage to the fibers at the upper end of the 3D-C perforations is less severe than in 2D-C, but the tensile deformation of the top layer fibers is clearly visible in almost every cut. At the same time, four main types of damage areas were obtained by observing and counting the damage morphology of the two types of composites, and they are the perforated zone of the polyurea layer (Zone 1), the zone where the broken piece is caught (Zone 2), and the zone where the left and right sides of the broken piece are subjected to shearing and stretching (Zone 3, Zone 4). it can be seen that along the weft and warp directions after chip penetration 2D-C accounted for 54.82% and 69.98% of the damage in Zone 2. Cross-sectional view of 2D-C and 3D-C. However, 3D-C accounts for relatively little of the damage in Zone 2, with the main areas of damage being Zone 3 and Zone 4.

    Conclusion The study showed that the resistance of the UHMWPE/polyurea flexible composites to projectile penetration has a significant fabric structure effect. The ballistic limiting velocity of the angle-interlock fabric-reinforced polyurea flexible composite is increased by 4.9% compared to that of the laminated plain fabric-reinforced polyurea flexible composite of the same thickness. For the unpenetrated UHMWPE/polyurea flexible composites, the penetration process involves mainly polyurea wrapping around the projectile, shear punching and fiber tensile fracture damage. The main failure modes for laminated plain fabrics are shear punch plugging and delamination failure, which for angle-interlock fabrics are mainly fiber tensile deformation and tensile fracture damage.

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    Photodegradation mechanism and pathway of visible light-response mesoporous TiO2 for Rhodamine B
    WANG Guoqin, FU Xiaohang, ZHU Yuke, WU Liguang, WANG Ting, JIANG Xiaojia, CHEN Huali
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 155-163.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220503201
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    Objective In order to promote the practical application of deep treatment of organic pollutants in slightly polluted water bodies using heterogeneous photocatalysis, mesoporous TiO2 photocatalyst as a novel photocatalyst with a pore size of 2-50 nm has a particle size of larger than 200 nm, so it was very easy to recycle, thus avoiding the potential nano-toxicity of the nano photocatalyst.

    Method In order to obtain a visible-light-responsive mesoporous TiO2 photocatalyst, chiral mesoporous TiO2 with spirally-stacked structure was prepared by a soft template method constructed with chiral surfactants. By means of various characterization methods such as X-ray spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy, surface area and pore size analysis, and circular dichroism (CD), the differences in structure and visible light response of chiral mesoporous TiO2 and achiral mesoporous TiO2 were compared and analyzed. The photodegradation experiment for Rhodamine B (RhB) under visible light excitation was adopted to evaluate their catalytic performance, thus exploring the mechanism and pathway for degrading RhB by chiral mesoporous TiO2.

    Results The average pore diameters of the two mesoporous TiO2 were 6.4 nm and 8.6 nm. The specific surface area, pore volume and pore size of chiral mesoporous TiO2 prepared by chiral surfactants were slightly smaller than those of achiral mesoporous TiO2. The particle size of the chiral mesoporous TiO2 particles was about 200 nm, and it presented an obvious helical packing structure, which also showed a significant chiral correspondence effect. On the other hand, the morphology of achiral mesoporous TiO2 did not show the structure of helical stacking, but only showed the aggregation structure of some particles. Both chiral mesoporous TiO2and achiral mesoporous TiO2had two mixed crystal forms of anatase and rutile (Fig.4). The helical stacking structure of chiral mesoporous TiO2 introduced more defects into the catalyst, so that the contents of Ti3+ and oxygen holes were higher than those of mesoporous TiO2 (Fig.5). Owing to its large specific surface area and excellent visible light response performance, chiral mesoporous TiO2 had a high degradation activity for RhB (the removal rate reached 78% within 5 h), and the degradation process conformed to first-order kinetics (Fig.6). The photocatalytic performance of achiral mesoporous TiO2 (the removal rate was only 16% within 5 h) was much lower than that of chiral mesoporous TiO2(Fig.6). Although the adsorption performance of the two catalysts for RhB was similar, the removal rate of RhB by chiral mesoporous TiO2 was more than 4 times that of achiral mesoporous TiO2(Fig.6). Radical trapping experiments and electron spin resonance (ESR) spectroscopy showed that the active species of chiral mesoporous TiO2 to degrade organic pollutant molecules under the excitation of visible light are ·O2-, ·OH and photogenerated h+ (Fig.7 and 8). When capturing ·O2-, ·OH and h+ during the photodegradation, the removal rates for RhB by the chiral mesoporous TiO2 decreased by 19.2%, 39.7% and 60.2%, respectively, compared with the photodegradation process without adding capture agent (Fig.7). It showed that ·O2-, ·OH and h+ all participated in the degradation of RhB as active species in the photodegradation process. And h+ was the main active species for degrading organic pollutants, followed by ·OH, and ·O2- was the least involved in the photodegradation (Fig.8). The calculation of the Fukui index (f-) of each atom in the RhB molecule proved that the atomic sites that were more likely to give electrons were easily attacked by photogenerated holes for degradation (Fig.9). By analyzing the intermediate products generated during the degradation process (Tab.2), the main pathway of the RhB degradation by chiral mesoporous TiO2 under irradiation of visible light was further obtained (Fig.10).

    Conclusion From the results of our work, the degradation pathway of RhB pollutants was obtained. The first step was that h+ attacked on the C—N bond of the RhB molecules to remove the ethyl group. Then, multiple demethylation and deethylation reactions, and deamination processes were carried out. Until the vulnerable C—N bond site disappears, the h+ would attack the carboxyl group with high electron density and the benzene ring to enable the ring-opening reaction to be continued, and finally RhB was mineralized into CO2, H2O and other inorganic substances.

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    Preparation of PET-based carbon dots by pyrolysis and its application in PET flame retardancy
    BING Linhan, WANG Rui, WU Yuhang, LIU Botong, HUANG Hanjiang, WEI Jianfei
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (10): 1-8.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230708301
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    Objective In order to improve the flame retardant properties of polyethylene terephthalate (PET), PET-based carbon dots (PET-CDs) were prepared by pyrolysis using PET waste as a precursor, and PET com-plexes (PET-CDs-PET) were prepared by mixing them with PET using physical blending method. The transformation from PET waste to flame-retardant PET was achieved. PET oligomers were prepared by microwave method, and then PET-CDs were prepared by pyrolysis reaction of PET oligomers with ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid. PET-CDs of different qualities were crushed in a pulveriser together with PET slices to obtain four kinds of PET-CDs-PETs with different contents of PET-CDs.

    Method Transmission electron microscopy, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy, Fourier infrared spectroscopy were used to analyse the structure of PET-CDs, and the optical properties of PET-CDs were investigated with the help of fluorescence spectrometer and UV analyser. The effects of different additive amounts of PET-CDs on the flame retardancy of PET were investigated by the limiting oxygen index (LOI), vertical combustion (UL-94), and cone calorimetry. The effect of PET-CDs on the flame retardancy of PET with different additions was also investigated by using a material. The mechanical properties of PET-CDs-PET were investigated by a material strength tester.

    Results As far as the structure is concerned, the prepared PET-CDs are quasi-spherical, with uniform particle distribution and no agglomeration. The particle size ranged from 0.44 nm to 4.39 nm, the average particle size was 1.85 nm, the lattice spacing was 0.25 nm, and the surface contained hydroxyl, carboxyl, and amine functional groups. In terms of optical properties, the prepared PET-CDs ethanol solutions showed dark brown colour under indoor natural light and blue fluorescence in UV analyser when irradiated by UV lamp with wavelength of 365 nm. The fluorescence of PET-CDs ethanol solutions was typical excitation wavelength-dependent, with the optimal excitation wavelengths and emission wavelengths of 320 nm and 420 nm, respectively. The absolute fluorescence quantum yield reached 25.73% under the light excitation at 320 nm, and the UV-visible absorption spectrum had an obvious absorption peak at 293 nm. In terms of flame retardant properties, the thermal stability of PET-CDs met the requirements of blending with PET, and the residual carbon of PET was increased by adding PET-CDs into PET. The LOI values of PET-CDs was increased and then decreased after the addition of PET-CDs with different contents, but all of them were higher than that of pure PET. The UL-94 fire ratings were all V-2 with different additions of PET-CDs. The LOI value of PET-CDs 1%-PET was 30%, and there was no significant decrease in the mechanical properties of PET at this additive amount, so the optimal additive amount of PET-CDs was 1%. The total heat release of PET-CDs 1%-PET was decreased by 1.5%, the total smoke release by 8.1%, the peak value of CO by 42%, the peak value of CO2 by 35.9%.

    Conclusion The preparation of CDs from PET waste as raw material can provide a new method for the reuse of waste, and the PET waste can be used in the flame retardant modification of PET materials after the preparation of CDs, forming a green and benign cycle. At the same time, the application of CDs in the flame retardant field not only broadens the scope of its application, but also provides a new flame retardant in this field.

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    Preparation and properties of polylactic acid/thymol antibacterial fibers
    CHEN Huanhuan, CHEN Kaikai, YANG Murong, XUE Haolong, GAO Weihong, XIAO Changfa
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (02): 34-43.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220704510
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    Obective With the frequent occurrence of global acute infectious disease outbreaks, people are increasingly aware of individual protection. In order to protect textiles from microbial contamination and protect human health, it is important to endow textiles with antibacterial properties. However, with the gradual deterioration of white pollution, biodegradable environment-friendly polymer materials are receiving more and more attentions from researchers worldwide. Therefore, this research is committed to develop a green antibacterial fiber.
    Method Polylactic acid (PLA) with good biodegradability and the natural antibacterial agent thymol were mixed evenly using a temperature control blending device before the PLA antibacterial fibers were prepared by melt spinning. The apparent morphology, chemical structure, crystallization, thermal and mechanical properties of PLA antimicrobial fibers with different thymol mass fraction were investigated by scanning electron microscopy, Fourier infrared spectroscopy, X-ray diffraction, single fibers strength meter and comprehensive thermal analyzer. The antibacterial properties of the fibers were tested by using oscillatory flask method.
    Results After the addition of thymol, the two phases of PLA and thymol were interconnected without any obvious interface, and the two phase assembly led to good overall dispersion of thymol particles in the fibers, and excellent the compatibility between PLA and thymol, as evidenced in Fig. 2. In this study, the characteristic peak of C—H bending vibration on the benzene ring appeared at 800 cm-1. The hydroxyl group of thymol can interact with the carbonyl group in PLA to form valence bonds, indicating the existence of chemical bonding interactions between thymol and PLA matrix. Furthermore, the electron microscopic morphology results indicated that the chemical bonding between thymol and PLA promotes their dispersion, as shown in Fig. 4. As the mass fraction of thymol increases, the melting temperature of PLA antibacterial fibers gradually decreases(as shown in Fig. 5). There were two stages of thermal decomposition of PLA antimicrobial fibers. The first stage occurs in 100-200 ℃, which is due to the volatilization and thermal decomposition of thymol in the system. The second stage takes place in 310-395 ℃, and the maximum degradation rate is shown around 375-381 ℃, and the mass loss gradually increases up to 99.28%. This is because of the decomposition of PLA macromolecules and short chain segments, and oligomers and lactide esters are produced during the melting process, as shown in Fig.6. With the increase of thymol mass fraction, the crystallinity of PLA antibacterial fibers gradually increases(as shown in Fig.7). When the mass fraction of thymol is 15%, the elongation at break of PLA antibacterial fibers can reach 320.98%, which was 90 times more than that of pure PLA fibers, and the flexibility is greatly improved, and these are shown in Fig. 8 and Tab. 3. Moreover, the higher the thymol mass fraction, the better the antibacterial properties of antibacterial fiber's. When the mass fraction of thymol is greater than or equal to 15%, the antibacterial rate of PLA antibacterial fibers becomes higher than 99.99%, which can inhibit the growth of Escherichia coli and Staphylococcus aureus completely. Besides, the antibacterial property of thymol on Staphylococcus aureus is better than that on Escherichia coli, as shown in Tab. 4.
    Conclusion During the fiber formation process, thymol will adhere to the outer surface of the fibers to show antibacterial effect. With the increase of thymol mass fraction, the elongation at break of antibacterial PLA fibers shows a trend of rapid increase and then slowly decrease, and the elongation at break of PLA antibacterial fibers with thymol mass fraction of 15% can reach 320.98%, which is 90 times of pure PLA fibers. This indicates that the addition of thymol is beneficial to improve the flexibility of PLA. In addition, with the increase of thymol mass fraction, the melting temperature of PLA antimicrobial fibers gradually reduce and the crystallinity gradually increase, which illustrates that the addition of thymol promotes the formation of the α' crystalline form of PLA. When the mass fraction of thymol is more than 15%, the antibacterial property of PLA antimicrobial fibers reaches more than 99.99%, which can completely inhibit the growth of Staphylococcus aureus and Escherichia coli. In summary, the addition of thymol can impart excellent antibacterial properties to the fibers, improve the wearability of PLA fibers, and make them better used in textiles. Subsequent studies can optimize the wearability by improving the spinning conditions and processes to achieve the mass production of antibacterial fibers.

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    Construction of flexible electronic fabric and its pressure sensing performance
    LI Ganghua, WANG Hang, SHI Baohui, QU Lijun, TIAN Mingwei
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (02): 96-102.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220104307
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    Objective With the development of artificial intelligence, wearable technology has become a research hotspot, driving the rapid development of all types of sensors. Sensors used in wearable devices should not only have sensitive and stable sensing performance, but should also have excellent flexibility, air permeability, and integration with textiles. Polymer based flexible pressure sensors have significant advantages in flexibility and integration with textiles, and have been developed rapidly. However, most of these sensors are thin films or gel shaped, which seriously affects their breathability and wearing comfort.
    Method Aiming at the problems of poor air permeability, poor moisture permeability and low wearing comfort of film-based and gel-based flexible sensors, a preparation strategy of all-textile-based flexible electronic fabrics based on piezoresistive effect was proposed. A structural model was constructed based on the electrode layer of 1+1 rib conductive fabric and the middle conductive layer of MXene modified cotton fabric (as shown in Fig. 1-3). The flexible electronic fabric with sandwich structure was formed by sewing and compounding various functional layers, and its wearing comfort and sensing performance were studied. Furthermore, its potential for industrial production in the future was expounded.
    Results The sensitivity of the flexible electronic fabric in the low pressure range (0-3 kPa) is about 0.409 5 kPa-1 (as shown in Fig. 4), which is caused by the working mechanism of the piezoresistive flexible sensor. A 2 g weight can make resistance change rate of the flexible electronic fabric exceed 3% (as shown in Fig. 6), which is mainly due to the excellent mechanical properties of the 1+1 ribbed conductive fabric. This enables the flexible electronic fabric to achieve large deformation under small external forces, resulting in rapid changes in resistance values to achieve excellent responsiveness. In addition, the MXene modification of cotton fabrics also gives the flexible electronic fabric a lower minimum pressure detection limit and better low-pressure monitoring performance. The response time of the flexible electronic fabric is less than 50 ms as Fig. 5 shows, sufficient for human motion signal monitoring. The stable resistance changes were maintained after 8 000 pressure cycles, indicating that the flexible electronic fabric maintains good resilience and conductive material wear resis-tance(Fig. 8). In addition, thanks to the full textile configuration of the flexible electronic fabric, it has better air permeability of 270.49 mm/s and moisture permeability of 3 420 g/(m2·24 h), representing better comfort. The flexible electronic fabric can realize the dynamic monitoring of the object, and it is convenient to predict the size and weight of the object qualitatively according to the image size and color depth as illustrated in Fig. 11. The flexible electronic fabric has excellent recognition ability for human body dynamic signals (as shown in Fig.12).
    Conclusion This paper introduces a flexible electronic fabric with piezoresistive effect, which is composed of 1+1 ribbed conductive fabric and MXene modified cotton fabric. It has high sensitivity, fast response and excellent cycle durability. It is able to sense, record and distinguish the pressure of human movement, and achieve dynamic monitoring. On the basis of meeting the sensing requirements, the composition of the whole fabric can meet the needs of thermal-moist comfort and contact comfort of the human body. It has the potential to achieve large-scale industrial production due to its easy preparation process and stable performance, and has broad application prospects in the fields of sports training, medical care and military protection. In the future, the accuracy, sustainability, interactivity and data analysis and feedback of intelligent textiles need be further studied to meet the needs of the end-users with improved behavior.

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    Effect of Lyocell fiber structure on its fibrillation at high speed spinning process
    LI Ting, LI Wenrui, ZHANG Chenxi, CHI Kedong, ZHANG Mingming, LIU Haihui, HUANG Qing
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (02): 11-18.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211001008
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    Objective The research on the relationship between the condensed structure and the degree of fibrillation of Lyocell fiber at a higher spinning speed is relatively scarce. Selecting appropriate preparation conditions to change the condensed structure of fiber and regulate the degree of fibrillation can ease the main problems that restrict the industrial promotion and scale applications of Lyocell fiber. This research studied the influence of different preparation conditions on the condensed structure of Lyocell fiber and the degree of fibrillation, further established the relationship, which was then used to control the degree of fibrillation at high spinning speed.
    Method In order to explore the relationship between the condensed structure and the degree of fibrillation of Lyocell fiber at high spinning speed, the fibers were spun with different N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide (NMMO) mass fractions, spinning speeds and blowing speeds. The degree of fibrillation was regulated by adjusting the structure. Using X-ray diffraction, wet friction tester and polarized microscope, the effects of NMMO concentration, spinning speed and blowing speed on the condensed structure and the degree of fibrillation were explored.
    Results The condensed structure and fibrillation behavior of the fibers prepared under different conditions are obviously different. Increasing the concentration of the NMMO to a certain extent optimizes the fiber structure, leading to significant increase in the degree of orientation and transverse crystallite size as shown in Tab. 1, and in the degree of fibrillation of the fiber as illustrated in Fig. 2-3. The fiber with low crystal orientation and small crystal size has better antigen fibrillation properties. The coagulation bath with lower NMMO mass fraction is more suitable to prepare low fibrillation Lyocell fiber at high spinning speed. As the spinning speed increases, the crystallinity and the grain size of the fiber increases slightly as suggested in Tab. 2. However, the amorphous region is further oriented and the degree of fibrillation also increases(Fig. 4 and 5). To a certain extent, reducing the spinning speed can reduce the fibrillation of the fiber. Adjusting the air blowing speed has a significant impact on the structure of fiber as shown in Fig. 6, especially on the transverse grain size as shown in Tab. 3, which can control the degree of fibrillation as Fig. 7 reveals. In a certain range, the lower the blowing speed, the less the crystal orientation and the smaller the grain size, the more conducive to reducing the fiber fibrillation. Too low the blowing speed affects the forming of the fiber and the spinning stability.
    Conclusion The condensed structure of Lyocell fiber directly affects the degree of fibrillation. The antigen fibrillation properties of the fiber prepared at high spinning speed is better in having low crystallization, low orientation and small crystallite size. To a certain extent, reducing the concentration of NMMO, spinning speed and blowing speed can reduce the degree of fibrillation. By comprehensively changing the degree of orienta-tion (especially the orientation of amorphous region) and the transverse grain size, the regulation of fibrillation is more obvious. Adjusting the concentration of NMMO is an easier way, among the above factors, to control the fibrillation behavior at high spinning speed. The Lyocell fiber prepared under mild spinning conditions demonstrates better antigenic fibrillation properties.

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    Preparation of high melt index polylactic acid masterbatch and spinnability of its meltblown materials
    ZHANG Yujing, CHEN Lianjie, ZHANG Sidong, ZHANG Qiang, HUANG Ruijie, YE Xiangyu, WANG Lunhe, XUAN Xiaoya, YU Bin, ZHU Feichao
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (02): 55-62.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220808108
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    Objective Meltblown polymer raw materials often require a relatively high melt index (MI), due to the fact that the polymer melt is extruded from the spinneret hole and then immediately subjected to high temperature and high speed airflow for rapid fiber formation. The melt flow must match its fiber formation speed, too high and too low MI will lead to the formation of melt droplets, seriously affecting the fiber formation process. In order to investigate the effect of different high melt index of polylactic acid (PLA) masterbatches on their meltblown spinnability, the preparation of PLA meltblown nonwoven materials for overall performance improvement was investigated.
    Method PLA masterbatches with melt indexes of 200, 400, 600, 1 000 and 1 400 g/(10 min) were designed and prepared by catalytic degradation method using spinning grade PLA as raw material, and their capillary rheological properties, molecular weight and its distribution, thermal-crystallization properties and thermal stability were investigated. Further, PLA meltblown materials with different melt indexes were prepared and their morphological structure, fiber diameter and mechanical properties were investigated.
    Results The melt of PLA meltblown masterbatch is typically "tangential thinning", which is characterized by a decrease in shear viscosity with increasing shear rate. The lower the melt index, the more significant the change in shear viscosity with shear rate, as shown in Fig. 2. No significant differences were found in glass transition temperature and melting point for PLA masterbatches with different melt indexes, and a significant cold crystallization peak appeared in the secondary temperature rise curves for MI=600,1 000 and 1 400 g/(10 min), as is shown in Fig. 4 and Tab. 2. It was also found that the crystallinity of the melt decreases as the MI increases. The higher the MI, the lower the molecular weight and the wider the molecular weight distribution (as shown in Fig. 3 and Tab. 1), which manifests itself in lower mechanical properties. The meltblown fiber with MI=400 and 600 g/(10 min) demonstrates the best uniformity and satisfactory mechanical properties, and the most fiber diameter around between 1 and 4 μm, as shown in Fig. 6-7.
    Conclusion In recent years, most of the domestic research on PLA has focused on the modification and functional finishing of this raw material, but the research on the meltblown spinnability of PLA masterbatches with high melt index and their influence on the performance of meltblown materials have not yet seen any systematic research. The research on meltblown spinnability of high melt index PLA masterbatches and its effect on the performance of meltblown materials have not been reported systematically. This study provides a theoretical basis and application guidance for the selection of high-quality PLA meltblown raw materials and the evaluation of their performance.

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    Research progress in recycling of waste polyphenylene sulfide fibers
    XING Jian, ZHANG Shucheng, YU Tianjiao, TANG Wenbin, WANG Liang, XU Zhenzhen, LIANG Botao
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (04): 222-229.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211007208
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    Significance High-temperature dust is the characteristic of air pollutants discharged by industry. Bag-type dust removal systems have been widely used in high-temperature dust treatment of waste incineration plant, steel plant, cement plant and coal-fired power plant, due to effectiveness and low cost. Filter bags are the key material of bag dust removal system. Polyphenylene sulfide (PPS) fiber is one of the most widely used thermoplastic fibers in the field of high-temperature filter bags due to the good mechanical properties, outstanding thermal stability and excellent flame retardancy. With the upgrade of flue gas emission standards, the quantity demand and replacement of PPS filter bags both greatly increases. However, most of waste PPS filter bags are disposed by incineration or landfill. A large quantity of smoke, acid or alkaline gas and carcinogens can be produced during the incineration process. Meanwhile, the dust particles, acid and alkaline substances and carcinogens contained in the waste PPS filter bags can also cause pollution of soil and groundwater through the landfill. Therefore, these two traditional treatment methods not only waste resources but also cause serious damage on the environment. Moreover, the most important thing is that PPS fibers cannot be recycled. Therefore, it is of great social significance and economic value to recycle waste PPS fibers and filter bags.
    Progress In order to promote the efficient and high-value recycling of waste PPS fibers and filter bags, a detailed overview on the current research advances was carried in this study, where the methods, processes, advantages and disadvantages of recycling PPS fibers were compared, analyzed and summarized. The technical difficulties affecting the recycling use of waste PPS filter bags were also analyzed from the aspects of deashing treatment, complex fiber composition and high recycling cost. Finally, a tripartite linkage mechanism of PPS filter bags manufacturer, user and recycling enterprise was proposed to manage and recycle waste PPS filter bags in different working conditions to provide reference for the high-value recycling. Currently, the commonly used recycling methods can be roughly divided into chemical recovery method and physical recovery method. The chemical recovery method refers that the PPS macromolecular chains are dissolved or decomposed using the corresponding organic solvent, and then the high polymer solid or polymer monomer are separated and reused. The technology of chemical dissolution method is relatively mature and the recovery rate is high, and it can be used for PPS filter bags with different components. Moreover, the chemical dissolution method has a high application value if the recovery rate of organic solvent can be improved and the separation and purification process can be simplified during the process of industrialization. Physical recovery method refers that waste PPS filter bags are generated into the initial state and reused by mechanical processing. It can be divided into mechanical pulverization, melt reprocessing, fiber disassembly and direct utilization. The mechanical pulverization method has been industrialized because of its simple process and low cost. The other three methods are still in the stage of experiment due to the limitation of multiple factors.
    Conclusions and Prospect Recycling use of waste PPS filter bags is an effective and imperative way to protect the environment and preserve the resources, which will benefit both the society and the economy significantly. However, the industrial scale of waste PPS filter bags recycling is small in our country, and the industrial cluster has not yet formed. Mechanical pulverization is the only recycling method that has been industrialized, but the industrial scale is still small. The chemical solution method has been studied extensively and has entered the stage of small trial. It will become the main recycling method for waste PPS filter bags on the condition of solving the high price and recycling of chemical solvent. In short, the recycling process of waste PPS filter bags is still immature and it is fraught with technical difficulties and high coasts. This paper puts forward some suggestions in the following areas. 1) A professional recycling system for waste PPS filter bags and other waste filter bags should be established. 2) Advanced and mature recycling processes and methods need to be developed to solve the technical difficulties by increasing R&D investment. 3) It is urgent to have the standards, laws and regulations for the recycling of waste PPS filter bag shall be formulated.

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    Advances in textile-based wearable flexible strain sensors
    ZHANG Man, QUAN Ying, FENG Yu, LI Fu, ZHANG Aiqin, LIU Shuqiang
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (12): 225-233.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20231104702
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    Significance Wearable flexible strain sensors can facilitate all-round monitoring of human activities and thus have broad application prospects in fields such as healthcare, public health and human-computer interaction. Compared with traditional embedded rigid strain sensors, textile structures become an ideal structural platform for flexible strain sensors with the advantages of flexibility, comfort and hyperbolic effect. However, since the raw materials used in traditional textiles generally have electrical insulating properties, they should be modified into electrically sensitive materials before being used to construct flexible strain sensors. In addition, the textile structure design is targeted on the basis of the strain sensing mechanism. Although there are some basic researches on the application of textile technology in the field of smart wearables, it is still in its infancy in the actual market application. In order to further promote the development and application of smart wearable textiles and make full use of the textile structural advantages, this paper summarizes the design concepts and preparation methods of flexible textile-based strain sensors based on the current research progress. The paper is organized on progress made in fibers, yarns and fabrics.

    Progress For fiber-based strain sensors, integrating fibers with electrically sensitive materials to achieve conductive fiber preparation is the primary issue which needs to be addressed in the preparation of strain sensors. Currently, there are three mainstream technologies to prepare fiber materials with good electrical conductivity which are fiber spinning, fiber surface coating and carbonization modification of fibers. Compared to fiber-based strain sensors, yarn-based sensors pay more attention to the macroscopic structural design to assemble multiple functional materials, achieving multi-dimensional upgrading of sensing performance. Yarn spinning technology, on the other hand, is an effective way to integrate functional fibers into yarns to achieve a good combination of structure and function. Spiral yarn and core-spun yarn are two commonly used yarn structures in strain sensors. Different fabric structures have their own advantages and disadvantages for creating strain sensors. Knitted fabrics have high stretchability, which can meet the size change ability required for strain sensors, but the structural stability is relatively poor. In comparison, woven fabrics have stable structure but the deformation is limited. The most common method for preparing strain sensors with braided structure is to use elastic yarns as core and conductive yarns as the braided sheath. Nonwoven structures provide an ideal template for the deposition of conductive materials, which can effectively construct three-dimensional interconnected conductive paths. The disadvantage however is that the strength is low and thus nonwoven fabrics are rarely used as a separate substrate for strain sensor. Finally, embedding flexible conductive yarn into textiles through the sewing process is also one way to prepare textile-based strain sensors. In principle, it can be embedded anywhere in clothing, providing preparation flexibility and potentially reducing costs.

    Conclusion and Prospect Although significant progress has been made in the research of textile-based strain sensors, there are still some key issues that need to be further investigated in terms of structural design, mechanism analysis, and performance optimization before academic research can be used for practical applications. 1) In order to meet the requirements of high sensitivity and large strain range of sensors, the design concept is that any slight deformation will cause changes in the conductive network inside the material, and the conductive network is always connected under different strain levels. At the same time, the interfacial properties of the conductive filler and the substrate need to be improved to ensure the repeatability and stability of the sensor. 2)The inherent insulation, viscoelasticity, and complexity of the multi-scale structure make the mechanism study of textile-based strain sensors very complex. Establishing a theoretical relationship between the multi-scale structure and the sensing performance is a necessary foundation for optimization design and performance improvement of textile-based strain sensors. 3) The performance improvement of materials in terms of washability, comfort, and adaptability with the human body is an important research direction. It is also a key issue to fully leverage the structural and performance advantages of textile materials, and consequently promoting the practical application of textile sensors in the field of wearable electronics.

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    Preparation of green-solvent-based polyamide nanofiber membrane and its air filtration performance
    ZHOU Wen, YU Jianyong, ZHANG Shichao, DING Bin
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (01): 56-63.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220607808
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    Objective The epidemic of COVID-19 and its variants is endangering human health. Wearing protective masks can effectively reduce the infection risk by resisting the inhalation of the polluted air containing the coronavirus. Electrospun polyamide nanofibers can be used as the core layer of protective masks and have lately received growing attention because of their high filtration performance and robust mechanical properties. However, existing electrospun polyamide nanofiber filters are usually prepared from toxic solvents which could cause severe environmental pollution and endanger workers' health, hence, their practical application should be restricted. Therefore, it is imperative to seek and develop green-solvent-based polyamide nanofiber filters.
    Method Innovative polyamide nanofiber filters were developed by direct electrospinning technique based on green solvents (Fig.1). Ethanol as the solvent and water as the nonsolvent were adopted to prepare the green-solvent-based polyamide (GSPA) nanofibers by designing spinning solutions with different ethanol/water mass ratios (i.e., 10:0, 9:1, 8:2, 7:3, and 6:4). During electrospinning process, the working voltage, tip-to-collector distance, and solution extrusion speed were set as 30 kV, 15 cm and 1 mL/h, respectively. The nanofibers prepared with the different ethanol/water ratios were denoted as GSPA-0, GSPA-1, GSPA-2, GSPA-3, and GSPA-4, respectively.
    Results It was found that water content had a great influence on the morphological structures of polyamide nanofibers (Fig.2). After introducing a small amount of water, the obtained GSPA-1 nanofibers featuring thinner diameter of 332 nm were compared to the GSPA-0 nanofibers (499 nm). The enhanced conductivity (10.5 μS/cm) of waterborne spinning solutions (Fig.3) stimulated more charges on spinning jets and led to larger electrostatic force, thus greatly elongating the jets and thinning the fiber diameter. However, with the further increment of water concentrations from 20% to 40%, the obtained fibers exhibited an increased average diameter ranging from 443 to 1 553 nm, which was mainly attributed to the larger viscosity of spinning solutions. Although water cannot dissolve polyamide, homogenous waterborne polyamide/ethanol solutions can still be obtained with different ethanol/water mass ratios within a broad area in the stable region (Fig.3). The average pore size of GSPA-1 membranes decreased by 55% compared with that of GSPA-0 membranes, contributing to high filtration efficiency. Moreover, with different concentrations (10%, 20%, 30%) of water, the fluffy structure of GSPA nanofibers were achieved with a high porosity (>80%), which would offer more passageways to transmit air rapidly. As the water concentration increased, the breaking strength of membranes increased at first and then decreased (Fig.5), and the GSPA-1 membranes exhibited the highest breaking strength of 5.6 MPa, which was believed to be related to the enhanced entanglements and contacts among the adjacent fibers because of the small fiber diameter. The GSPA-1 membranes displayed the highest filtration efficiency (99.02%) for the most penetration particles (PM0.3) by virtue of the small fiber diameter but suffered from poor permeability with a pressure drop of 158 Pa. Moreover, the GSPA-1 membranes possessed the highest quality factor of 0.029 3 Pa-1, suggesting the optimal filtration performance among different GSPA membranes. A high PM0.3 removal efficiency (>95%) was achieved for GSPA-1 filters under various airflow velocities ranging from 10 to 90 L/min (Fig.7). Compared with conventional melt-blown fibers, the GSPA nanofibers featured a smaller diameter and higher Knudsen number (Fig.8), and PM0.3 were captured mainly on the surfaces of green polyamide nanofibers (Fig.9), demonstrating the higher adsorption ability benefiting from the larger specific surface area.
    Conclusion A cleaner production of polyamide nanofibers for air filtration was proposed by direct electrospinning based on green and sustainable binary solvents of water and ethanol. For the first time, the structure including fiber diameter, porosity, and pore size of electrospun polyamide nanofibers were precisely tailored by manipulating water concentration in spinning solutions. The prepared environmentally friendly polyamide nanofiber filters feature the interconnected porous structure with the nanoscale 1D building blocks (332 nm), mean pore size (0.7 μm), and porosity (84%), thus achieving efficient PM0.3 capture performance with the filtration efficiency of 99.02% and pressure drop of 158 Pa, which could be comparable to previous toxic-solvent-processed nanofibers. Moreover, the GSPA nanofibers exhibit robust mechanical properties with an impressive breaking strength (5.6 MPa) and elongation (163.9%), contributing to withstanding the external forces and deformation in the practical assembly and usage of resultant filters. It is envisaged that the green-solvent-based polyamide nanofibers could be used as promising candidates for next-generation air filters, and the proposed waterborne spinning strategy can provide valuable insights for cleaner production of advanced polyamide textiles.

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    Research progress in display units fabricated from textiles
    SHI Xiang, WANG Zhen, PENG Huisheng
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (01): 21-29.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220606609
    Abstract567)   HTML60)    PDF (15066KB)(379)       Save

    Significance As the window of human-machine interaction, demands on displays have become an important driving force for the development of the information society. The development of display technology ranges from the early three-dimensional bulky cathode ray tube display to flat-panel liquid crystal display, and now to the two-dimensional thin-film organic light-emitting diode display, and the displays are becoming flexible and lightweight by reducing the thickness of the device. With the rapid development of emerging fields such as wearable devices, smart interactions and the Internet of Things, displays are required to fit the irregular surface of the human body, match the human body in mechanical properties and remain stable under three-dimensional deformation. Additionally, future displays should be permeable for long-term comfort in the applications of human-machine interaction and health monitoring. Textile is an indispensable part of our daily life, and integrating displays into textile is an ideal way to realize new displays that is highly flexible, adaptive to complex deformation, and permeable.
    Progress Light-emitting devices are the basic components of displays. Dynamic images in displays are realized by controlling light-emitting devices according to the driving program. Until now, three types of textile light-emitting device structures have been developed. They are textile-based planar light-emitting devices, light-emitting fibers, and warp-weft interwoven light-emitting devices.
    Textile-based planar light-emitting devices are prepared by attaching flexible thin-film light-emitting devices to the textile substrate or depositing active materials layer by layer on the textile substrate to obtain light-emitting devices. Owing to the wide investigation on materials and fabrication of planar light-emitting devices, it is easy to achieve high luminance and efficiency in textile-based planar light-emitting devices for better display performance. However, the modulus of film materials is always higher than the modulus of textiles. The mismatch between the mechanical properties leads to reduced flexibility of the textile, and the devices can the easily peeled off from the textile or fade in performance during deformation.
    The two-dimensional thin film light-emitting devices are converted into one-dimensional light-emitting fibers, which are the building blocks of textiles. Light-emitting fibers can be woven into textiles without sacrificing the inherent permeability and flexibility of textiles. Through the design of material and device structure, meter-length light-emitting fibers were realized based on AC electroluminescent material. Light-emitting fibers with good mechanical stability and flexibility can be woven into textile to display pre-designed weaving patterns. However, this is a significant limitation because simply based on pre-designed patterns, it is almost impossible for them to satisfy the display applications like computers and cell phones.
    For real displays consisting of an array of pixels, the pixels are individually controlled in real time for dynamic change. A strategy is proposed to build micron-scale light-emitting devices at the warp and weft interwoven points. Composite warps that load luminescent materials and transparent conductive wefts were developed, and the textile pixels were formed by contacting two fibers during weaving. This method unifies the textile and the display device in function, structure, and fabrication method. High-resolution display in the textile was achieved by applying digital signals to warps and wefts.
    Conclusion and Prospect In the past decade, many efforts are made to design materials, device structures, and fabricate methods for displaying textiles. High stability, flexibility, and permeability of displaying textiles are achieved by developing one-dimensional fiber devices, and pixel displays with high resolution and large-area integration are facilitated by developing warp-weft interwoven devices. However, the following problems remain to be solved to promote the practical application of displaying textile.
    1) Luminescent materials are the basis for high display performance. Unique highly curved structures of fibers lead to new requirements for the composition, structure, film forming method and mechanical stability of light-emitting materials.
    2) Full-color display is indispensable for human-machine interaction. In planar display, full color is realized by mixing the light emitting from three adjacent light-emitting devices in red, green, and blue. Fiber-shaped light-emitting devices are curved light sources. The space distribution of emitted light from fiber devices is different from that from planar devices, which demands new principles of color mixing.
    3) Resolution is a key parameter for display quality. The resolution of displaying textiles is still far below that of the commercial displays. It is challenging to uniformly load the luminescent materials on superfine fiber and reveal the light-emitting mechanism of interwoven light-emitting devices in the size of tens of microns.
    4) Systematic integration is the foundation of practical application. In order to integrate displaying textiles with other fiber devices such as battery fibers and sensing fibers, problems should be solved to connect fiber electrodes in high bonding strength and stable electrical conductivity under deformation. Matching of electrical parameters among textile devices should also be investigated for the reliable operation of the textile system.

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    Study on performance of nanofiber air filter materials
    HU Diefei, WANG Yan, YAO Juming, DAS Ripon, MILITKY Jiri, VENKATARAMAN Mohanapriya, ZHU Guocheng
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 77-83.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210905801
    Abstract567)   HTML32)    PDF (6112KB)(125)       Save

    Objective Filtration performance of air filtration membrane in high-end application has always been a main concern, attracting much research. The electrospun nanofiber membrane and polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) microporous membrane are the widely used membranes as high-end air filtration membrane. In order to further investigate the filtration mechanism of nanofiber air filter materials, to understand the correlations between structure features and their filtration performance, and to provide useful guidance for development and application of high-end air filter materials, these six types of filter composite materials are made from nanofiber structure, which is usually used for high-end air filter materials.

    Method These six types of filter composite materials were selected. The structure feature is the main factor influencing the filtration performance of air filter materials, and the electrostatic adsorption is also playing an important role in filtration performance. Therefore, the evaluation of air filter materials in structure, electrostatic adsorption and filtration performance were carried out.

    Results PA6/PET filter composite materials was found to have the highest surface potential which reached to 1.414 kV and its filtration efficiency reached to 99.57%. In contrast, the composite materials with wood pulp paper as substrate showed the lowest surface potential which was 0.070 kV, corresponding to a filtration efficiency of 22.28%, due to the lack of electrostatic adsorption. The crystallinities of samples 1#- 6# were 40.7%、39.4%、44.2%、51.7%、47.6% and 43.5%, respectively. The pressure drops of ePTFE/ES hot-air cotton nonwoven filter composite materials, PTFE/ES hot-rolled nonwoven filter composite materials, and PTFE/ES hot-air cotton nonwoven filter composite materials were 59.7 Pa, 45.6 Pa, 58.8 Pa. The fiber diameter and structure of air filtration membrane also showed to have significant influence on the filtration performance of air filter materials. The smaller fiber diameter, smaller pore size, higher thickness, higher specific surface area resulted in a higher pressure drop and higher filtration efficiency.

    Conclusion The surface potential played the most important role in filtration performance of filter composite materials, the higher surface potential led to a higher filtration efficiency. Besides, the fiber diameter and pore structure and its distribution also had significant influence on filtration performance of filter composite materials. PTFE mirco-porous membrane was produced by stretching, which had lower pressure drop comparing with the nanofibrous membrane produced from electrospinning.

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