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    Fabrication and application research progress of fiber-based self-powered electronic skins
    LÜ Xiaoshuang, LIU Liping, YU Jianyong, DING Bin, LI Zhaoling
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (10): 183-191.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220404509
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    This review introduces the categories, characteristics, and preparation processes for constructing materials with applications for electronic skins, from the perspective of composition structure of the electronic skins with tactile sensing capability. The compelling features of breathable fiber materials serving as substrate layer, electrode layer, and sensing layer in electronic skins were highlighted, in view of the poor air permeability of current dense film-based and rubber-based electronic skins that easily lead to itching during long-term wearing. The working mechanisms of piezoelectric and triboelectric electronic skins were introduced, which are not only able to achieve real-time pressure sensing response, but also able to harvest the ambient mechanical energy and convert it into electricity to power themselves. These are conducive to the fabrication of miniatured, lightweight, and flexible wearable devices. The research progresses in fiber-based self-powered electronic skins in the fields of motion monitoring and medical detection were comprehensively summarized in terms of preparation methods, performance characterizations, and practical applications. The existing challenges and future development directions of fiber-based self-powered electronic skins were extensively discussed.

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    Rapid separation and content determination of fibers from waste cotton/polyester blended fabrics
    ZHANG Xiaocheng, ZHOU Yan, TIAN Weiguo, QIAO Xin, JIA Fengwei, XU Lili, ZHANG Jinming, ZHANG Jun
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (07): 1-8.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220307508
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    Based on ionic liquid/co-solvent system with excellent dissolving capability for cellulose and relatively low viscosity, a method for rapid component separation and content determination for waste cotton/polyester blended fabrics was proposed. The effect of ionic liquid and co-solvent on the dissolving capability, solution viscosity, structure and properties of separated components was studied. The results indicate that the 1-butyl-3-methylimidazolium acetate/dimethyl sulfoxide (the mass ratio is 1:1) system can selectively dissolve cellulose in the cotton/polyester blended fabrics, and the resultant cellulose solution has a low viscosity. Subsequently, after a simple filtration, cellulose and polyester fibers can be completely separated under simple and mild conditions, with the separation temperature to be 25-60 ℃. The cellulose component is almost non-degradable, and can be processed into film, fibers and microspheres. The polyester component with a high purity can also be separated and keep its original textile morphology in blended fabrics. In summary, the ionic liquid/co-solvent method not only can high-efficiently separate the components of the cotton/polyester blended fabrics, but also can accurately measure the components content. Therefore, this work provides a promising and useful method to the recycling and re-utilization of waste textiles, indicating a great potential in the practical applications.

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    2020 version of continuous structural modification on Donghua young women's garment basic block
    LIU Yongmei, XUE Huixin, XU Danniang, ZHANG Xianghui
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (07): 135-140.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210605606
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    To adapt to the changes in the body shape characteristics of young women and improve the fitness and applicability of the garment basic block, the 2020 version of Donghua young women's garment basic block was established. Based on the structure of the 2008 version of Donghua young women's garment basic block, a hypothetical prototype for sample modification experiments was established. 56 young women aged 18-29 were tested to modify the hypothetical prototype sample of real life dress. The difference test was performed on the modified data, the regression relationship between the control parts of the prototype was adjusted, and the relaxation distribution rule of the hip part of the prototype was explored. Through the sample clothing correction experiment, trends were observed on young female's neck root circumference increase, shoulder inclination, and slight humpback. The adjustment of the prototype on the basis of the 2008 version of Donghua women's garment basic block is as follows: the regression formula changes at the front horizontal collar, back horizontal collar, back straight collar, chest width, back width and scapula dart, and the angle of the back shoulder oblique decreases. The distribution of hip circumference looseness in front, side and back parts was 19.0%, 60.4% and 20.6%, respectively. Based on these changes, the 2020 version of Donghua young women's garment basic block would improve the applicability of clothing prototype to different styles of clothing.

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    Research progress in chemical recycling of waste cotton and polyester textiles
    CHEN Long, ZHOU Zhe, ZHANG Jun, XU Shimei, NI Yanpeng
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (05): 43-48.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211201806
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    A large number of waste cotton and polyester textiles are produced in China, but the recycling rate is low and high quality products are rare. Focusing on this problem, the recycling of waste cotton and polyester fabrics based on chemical recycling was reviewed. The technology of waste cotton pulp preparation and its fiber spinning, the monomer preparation from the depolymerization of waste polyester and its polymerization were examined. The literature review indicated that the small-scale production of waste cotton was involved in the making of regenerated Lyocell fibers by mixing low proportion of waste cotton regenerated pulp with the primary wood pulp, and that 10 000-ton scale production of chemically regenerated polyethylene terephthalate(PET) from waste PET textiles has been achieved through glycol alcoholysis-methanol ester exchange technology. However, there are still problems such as technical difficulties, high production cost, low recovery and utilization rate, poor product quality, and high degree of " waste production caused by waste treatment ". Hence, key technology development for waste textile recycling should be the focus of research emphasizing on clean recycling and high value utilization of waste cotton and polyester textiles.

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    Yarn breakage location for yarn joining robot based on machine vision
    ZHOU Qihong, PENG Yi, CEN Junhao, ZHOU Shenhua, LI Shujia
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (05): 163-169.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210504407
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    In order to identify and locate the yarn breakage in the spinning process for the yarn joining robot through visual method and to simplify the mechanical structure, a recognition and positioning algorithm for yarn characteristics is proposed according to the image characteristics. An industrial camera was used to collect the image of the yarn being sucked into the suction nozzle, and the contrast between yarn features and background was enhanced through an improved gray enhancement method, using Canny operator for yarn edge detection. The image features of the yarn were obtained by dividing the interest regions and optimized using Hough line detection method, and the positioning algorithm was used to extract the required location information. The experimental results show that the position information extracted by the proposed algorithm has high accuracy, the error of coordinate points is 1.42 pixels, and the error of angle α is 0.60°. Compared with the use of the traditional location detecting algorithm, the running time of the program is reduced, and the average recognition time is in the order of 10-1 s, with good real-time performance. The research results can be applied to the development of yarn joining robot products.

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    Lightweight clothing detection method based on an improved YOLOv5 network
    CHEN Jinguang, LI Xue, SHAO Jingfeng, MA Lili
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (10): 155-160.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210809306
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    In order to further reduce the occupation of computing resources by the clothing object detection model based on deep learning, an improved lightweight clothing object detection method, MV3L-YOLOv5, was proposed. The MobileNetV3_Large is used to construct the backbone network of YOLOv5, and the label smoothing strategy was introduced to enhance the generalization ability at the training stage of the model. The data augmentation technology was used to make up for the unbalanced number of images of different clothing categories in the DeepFashion2 dataset. Experimental results show that the model volume of MV3L-YOLOv5 is 10.27 MB, the floating-point operations is 10.2×109 times, and mean average precision is 76.6 %. Comparing with YOLOv5s, which is the lightest network in YOLOv5 series, MV3L-YOLOv5 is compressed in the model volume by 26.4 %, reduced the floating-point operations by 39 %, and improved accuracy by 1.3 %. Experimental results in the improved algorithm show that the detection performance is notably improved, and the model is lighter and more suitable for deployment in devices with limited resources.

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    Simulation and analysis of carbon fiber composite unmanned aerial vehicle blade
    WU Xia, YAO Juming, WANG Yan, RIPON Das, JIRI Militky, MOHANAPRIYA Venkataraman, ZHU Guocheng
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (08): 80-87.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210802608
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    In order to obtain the optimal layering mode of carbon fiber in unmanned aerial vehicle(UAV) blade, the layering mode of carbon fiber composite UAV blade is designed through ACP (ANSYS Composite PrepPost) module in Workbench. The three-dimensional model of UAV blade is established by using SolidWorks three-dimensional modeling software, and HyperMesh is used to clean and mesh the blade. Ansys Workbench Fluent is used to simulate the different speeds of UAV blade, extract the pressure load on the blade surface, and simulate and analyze the carbon fiber composite UAV blades with different layers. The mechanical simulation results of carbon fiber composite UAV blades are obtained. Based on Tsai–Wu failure criterion, the failure coefficient of each layer is calculated, and the optimal carbon fiber layering mode is [0°,90°,90°,90°,0°].

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    Advancement in data-driven intelligent control system for roboticized textile production
    ZHANG Jie, XU Chuqiao, WANG Junliang, ZHENG Xiaohu
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (09): 1-10.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220506610
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    The scale of China's textile industry is huge with long production process, and the industry employs large number of workers, and full-process automated production is still difficult to achieve. The construction of a data-driven intelligent control system for roboticized textile production would play an important role in promoting the transformation and upgrading of China's textile industry from labor-intensive to less-personnel or unmanned production. This paper systematically reviewed the development history of textile robot and intelligent manufacturing system, and proposed a data-driven intelligent control system architecture for roboticized textile production. From the equipment layer, data layer and application layer, this paper discussed three key technologies and applications: multi-type textile robots to fill in the process breakpoints, multi-chain integrated digital thread of textile entire process, and multi-application collaborative intelligent control of textile production. Furthermore, the challenges in practical applications were summarized. The review concluded that high-speed, real-time, dexterity, precision, autonomous and collaborative textile robots, and intelligent management and control systems for textile production with interpretability, sustainability and toughness are possible future development directions.

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    Research status and development trend of perspective preparation technologies and applications for textiles
    WU Jing, JIANG Zhenlin, JI Peng, XIE Ruimin, CHEN Ye, CHEN Xiangling, WANG Huaping
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (01): 1-10.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220706210
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    Significance Chemical fiber is a necessary component of human productivity and daily living. Since the 1970s, China's chemical fiber industry has developed quickly, and China has led the world in production of chemical fiber for almost 20 years. In 2021, China's chemical fiber output has reached 60.25 million tons, or more than 70% of the total amount produced worldwide. Currently, the development of high performance, functional, and intelligent textile products has drawn considerable attention as consumer demand has increased significantly. The production of raw resources, technological advancement, and the application fields of functional products are all significant variables. The future development of the textile industry is undoubtedly very important, and in order to be clear about the future development direction, it is thus crucial to summarize the possible and potential development trend of novel technologies and improved products with higher performance and wider application fields in future textile industry on the basis of the existing technologies and problems.
    Progress Currently, significant obstacles still exist to the growth of the textile sector, which are mostly seen in the following four aspects: 1) shortage of resources for fiber raw materials; 2) increase of processing costs; 3) products elevation. Middle and low-grade products no longer have any advantages, the production and processing capability is forced to migrate out of China, and new and high-grade products are being developed and produced; 4) absence of innovative technology. The developed synthetic biological method and genetic engineering technology can successfully prepare bio-based raw materials like 1, 3-propanediol and lactic acid in order to avoid the significant consumption of petroleum-based raw materials and the competition between bio-based raw materials and grain. Fiber material forming technology is moving progressively in the direction of an effective multi-flow, sustainable, green, and intelligent technology introduction. Furthermore, the fiber forming technology is more advanced to achieve the accurate building of multiple fiber structures. A greater range of applications can be met by the expansion and performance improvement of fiber structures. Application of clothing in the direction of development for high performance, minimal loss, light weight, and multifunctional clothing. Additionally, textiles have new uses in the development of biomedical materials, environmental protection filtration materials, and agricultural production materials. The innovation products are multi-functional and more intelligent, and can realize the active adaptation of structure and performance in varied application conditions.
    Conclusion and Prospect The development of textile industry and textile technology has played a crucial role in the evolution of human civilization. Today in the 21st century, the textile industry is no longer just a conventional industry to meet the needs of human clothing. Its technological development is more advanced and cutting-edge: 1) the innovation of raw materials. Innovations in feedstock technology such as the development of bio-based feedstocks have made fiber products more environmentally friendly. Pure organic polymers are no longer the only type of fibrous matrix materials; in addition, inorganic, metal, and organic-inorganic hybrid fiber materials are now covered. 2) forming technology. Fiber material forming technology is gradually moving toward an effective multi-flow, environmentally friendly, and sustainable processing process. Infinite creative potential exists for final applications thanks to the advancement of fiber forming technology and the evolution of fiber on a multidimensional scale. 3) intelligent manufacturing. The adoption of intelligent manufacturing, complete process automation, information technology, and digitalization can significantly increase the productivity of the textile sector. 4) more diverse applications. In the future, textiles could be used in apparel, wearable textiles, household textile items, and extremely innovative fields including biomedicine, the environment, energy, agricultural production, building, and transportation, among others, with the focus on intelligence and function. The textile sector has demonstrated multifaceted inventive growth that will open up more room for human civilization and technology advancement.

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    Review in functional textiles for personal thermal and moisture comfort management
    CHENG Ningbo, MIAO Dongyang, WANG Xianfeng, WANG Zhaohui, DING Bin, YU Jianyong
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (10): 200-208.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210401609
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    With the aim of achieving improved individual comfort and reduce energy consumption in providing cooling and heating, textiles regulating heat and moisture exchange between human body and its surroundings are a promising solution. This paper reviews the researches on functional textiles for heat and moisture management. The review started with the introduction of personal heat and moisture comfort management mechanisms, followed by summarizing six common advanced functional textiles that can be used for personal heat and moisture management, these being the radiative thermoregulation textiles, phase change thermoregulation textiles, smart response textiles, thermal conductive textiles, thermoregulation textiles for energy conversion, and moisture management textiles. The research progress in functional textiles was summarized on the basis of different heat and moisture management mechanisms and their potential applications in several fields, taking that fabric regulation of microclimate between body and ambient heat and moisture balance is the key to individual comfort. The review pointed out that the current advanced functional textiles for heat and moisture management still have problems such as difficulties in scale preparation, functional singleness, lack of intelligence and absence of systemic heat and moisture comfort evaluation, and it is foreseen that advanced textiles for personal heat management, energy harvesting technology and integration of flexible electronic devices are the future development trend of smart clothing.

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    Classification and recognition of young males' neck-shoulder shape based on 2-D photos
    ZHANG Jian, XU Kaiyi, ZHAO Songling, GU Bingfei
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (05): 143-149.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210506507
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    In order to explore the classification of the neck and shoulder shape of young men and to facilitate the automatic recognition based on 2-D photos, this study obtained the point cloud data of 180 male college students using a three-dimensional body scanner, and measured 22 characteristic parameters relating to the male neck and shoulder shape. According to the analysis of the coefficient of variation, the forward angle, back angle, shoulder oblique angle, neck-to-shoulder width ratio, and neck transverse sagittal diameter ratio were selected as cluster analysis variables to classify the neck and shoulder shapes for establishing the discriminant rules. Combining the 2-D photos of the human body to extract the parameters required for body type classification, an automatic recognition system for the shape of the neck-shoulders was constructed. The results show that the neck-shoulder shape of young men can be divided into three types, namely round-neck-drop-shoulder, forward-round-neck and wide-neck-straight-body. The discrimination accuracy rate of the constructed form automatic recognition system reached 93.33%, indicating that this method is effective and feasible, and can meet the needs of consumers' personalized customization.

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    IP marketing strategy for clothing brands based on SIPS model
    JIANG Runtian, JIN Peng, WU Yan, CHEN En
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (07): 162-169.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210705809
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    Aiming at the lack of systematic layout of clothing brand IP marketing strategy, this paper puts forward clothing brand IP marketing strategy based on SIPS consumer behavior analysis theory. The IP marketing strategy of clothing brand was divided into three dimensions, i.e. content, form and drainage. Combined with SIPS theory, the logical relationship and layout of the three-dimensional strategy were modified, and three IP marketing content strategies, five form strategies and four drainage strategies were obtained. The characteristics and effectiveness of each dimension strategy were extracted, and the clothing brand IP marketing strategy based on SIPS theory was put forward. The research results show that after the implementation of the IP marketing strategy guided by the model, the omni-channel reading volume and sales volume of a commercial project are greatly improved. After the implementation of the marketing strategy for the first time, the number of readers, times and sales volume of the brand are increased by 180.5%, 178.9% and 389.7%, respectively. The adjustment strategy of clothing brand according to its own positioning, consumer groups and marketing objectives can provide enlightenment for the sustainable and vertical development of the brand.

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    Progress and trends in application of wearable technology for emotion recognition
    LIU Huanhuan, WANG Zhaohui, YE Qinwen, CHEN Ziwei, ZHENG Jingjin
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (08): 197-205.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210107509
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    In order to promote the innovative development of smart wearable product technology for emotion recognition in the textile and apparel field, this paper systematically introduced the current research status of emotion recognition monitoring, classification algorithms and emotion recognition wearable devices. The emotion classification model was outlined and the physiological reactions summarized that occur when emotions were generated. In view of the current research status of emotion recognition monitoring methods, two categories of emotion recognition monitoring methods, namely physiological signals and behavioural manifestations, were elaborated, and the common emotion recognition classification algorithms and the existing emotion recognition wearable products based on the wearable device parts were summarized. The review also discussed the challenges and problems that need to be addressed in future development of emotion recognition smart wearable. The review identified future development trend and application prospects from three aspects: flexible and comfortable collection devices, accuracy of recognition results, and the way to interact with recognition results.

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    Key technologies for full-process robotic automatic production in ring spinning
    ZHENG Xiaohu, LIU Zhenghao, CHEN Feng, LIU Zhifeng, WANG Junliang, HOU Xi, DING Siyi
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (09): 11-20.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220407210
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    Aiming at deep integration of ring spinning full-process automation with industrial robots, a simulation optimization method for ring spinning production line layout was proposed, and a production line collaborative scheduling model was constructed. The application scenarios of key process robots, such as cotton distribution and bale discharge, automatic feeding of cotton rolls by comber and appearance inspection of barrel yarn, were presented in details. An information integrated management and control strategy based on information interconnection technology was proposed, and an intelligent management and control system integrating process, production planning, quality, equipment and logistics was established. The whole process intelligent management mode of ring spinning production line was formed, and the spinning quality traceability based on the yarn tube was achieved. The results show that the task scheduling method effectively improves the production efficiency of related processes. The designed spinning process robot has filled in the process breakpoints such as cotton distribution and bale discharge. After the application of relevant technologies, the comprehensive production efficiency of the enterprise demonstrated an increase of 22.65% and an operating cost reduction of 40%. This technology has been taken as a typical case of intelligent transformation in the spinning industry and is promoted to the industry.

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    Review on toughening modification of carbon fiber/epoxy resin composites
    XU Mingtao, JI Yu, ZHONG Yue, ZHANG Yan, WANG Ping, SUI Jianhua, LI Yuanyuan
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (09): 203-210.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210104508
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    The brittle fracture of carbon fiber/epoxy resin composites can be improved by resin toughening and fiber modification. This paper reviewed the research progress of carbon fiber reinforced epoxy resin composites from three aspects: resin modification, interface modification and structure design. The toughness of epoxy resin was improved by increasing the bonding between filled particles and resin by modifying nano materials, rubber elastomer and thermoplastic resin. The interfacial modification was mainly the surface modification of carbon fiber. By increasing the surface active functional groups of carbon fiber or enhancing the surface modification at multiple scales, the interfacial bond between carbon fiber and epoxy resin is enhanced to toughen the composites. The structural design of composite materials was focused on the design of the fiber laying angle, thickness and structure, in order to enhance the toughness of composite materials through structural optimization. Finally, the problems of the three modification methods were analyzed, and the future research directions of composite modification were pointed out based on the combination of the three modification methods.

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    Preparation of dendritic nanofiber membrane induced by hyperbranched quaternary ammonium salt and its properties
    YAO Ying, ZHAO Weitao, ZHANG Desuo, LIN Hong, CHEN Yuyue, WEI Hong
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (10): 1-9.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211202809
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    In order to develop membrane materials with high efficiency filtration performance, this research prepared polyvinylidene fluoride (PVDF) dendritic nanofiber membranes using hyperbranched quaternary ammonium salt (HBP-HTC) as a branching promoter based on electrostatic spinning technology in one step. The influence of the spinning process on the forming structure of the fiber membrane was explored. The mechanical properties of the dendritic nanofiber membrane were analyzed and its air filtration performance was measured. The results showed that the nanofiber membrane prepared with HBP-HTC has more dendritic structures than the membrance prepared with small molecule quaternary ammonium salts due to the abundant quaternary ammonium groups on the surface of HBP-HTC, which has a stable enrichment effect on charge. When the mass fraction of PVDF was 12%, the quaternary ammonium groups was 0.1 mol/L, and the spinning voltage was 25 kV, the dendritic coverage of the fabricated fiber membranes was as high as 78.32% and demonstrated good mechanical properties. The filtration efficiency of the prepared nanofiber membrane reached 99.995% at the thickness of 40 μm, while the pressure drop is 122.4 Pa.

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    Advances on antibacterial textiles
    NAN Qingqing, ZENG Qinghong, YUAN Jingxuan, WANG Xiaoqin, ZHENG Zhaozhu, LI Gang
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (06): 197-205.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210401509
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    In order to solve problems that bacterial resistance of antimicrobial agents, the short duration of antimicrobial activity and the complexity of antibacterial finishing process, the properties of fabrics, the functional characteristics, textile applications and antimicrobial mechanism of organic, inorganic and natural antimicrobial agents were systematically reviewed. At the same time, the advantages and disadvantages of different antibacterial finishing methods, such as impregnation, dip rolling and microencapsulation, were introduced and compared through the various antibacterial finishing treatments for functional yarns and fabrics with different antibacterial agents. Finally, it is predicted that multi-function agents and eco-friendly antibacterial finishing technologies will be developed in the future, so that antibacterial functional textiles can be developed in the direction of eco-friendly processing, low development costs, effective performance and comfortable wearing.

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    Progress in recycling waste natural fiber textiles and high-value utilization strategy
    FAN Wei, LIU Hongxia, LU Linlin, DOU Hao, SUN Yanli
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (05): 49-56.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220103408
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    In order to improve the recycling rate of waste natural fiber textiles and reduce environmental pollution and resource waste, the current recycling technologies of waste natural fiber textiles were reviewed from four perspectives,i.e. physical method, chemical method, biological method and energy method. The research progress and suitable types and grades of waste textiles for each method were analyzed. In view of the complex components of waste textiles, unclear structure-activity relationship, high recycling cost, low added value and poor consumer acceptance of recycling products, this review proposes to emphasize breakthroughs in sorting and identification technology of waste textiles, structure-activity relationship, low-cost recycling technology, high-value recycling strategy, policies and regulations on the promotion and use of recycling products in future studies, in order to promote the industrialization pace of waste natural fiber textiles.

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    Research progress of aerogel materials for thermal protection
    GONG Xuebin, LIU Yuanjun, ZHAO Xiaoming
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (06): 187-196.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210308610
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    In order to further strengthen the application of thermal protection performance of aerogel materials in various fields, and to clarify the main research direction of aerogel materials for thermal protection in the future. This article first briefly introduces the definition, structural characteristics, performance and thermal insulation mechanism of aerogels. Secondly, the application of aerogel materials is described, especially in the field of high-speed aircraft and high-temperature protective clothing. Then, the aerogels used for thermal protection are classified according to the raw materials, and the research status of various aerogels are discussed separately. Silica aerogels have been researched for the longest time and the results are relatively mature. There is still a lot of room for improvement in the research of other types of aerogels. Research on the unique advantages and disadvantages of various aerogel materials can be carried out to meet the special needs of various aspects. Finally, it is proposed that the future development trend of aerogel materials should focus on increasing the upper limit of temperature resistance, eliminating the dust problem of materials after high temperature, improving mechanical properties, meeting the needs of integrated insulation and load-bearing protection, and improving the performance of protective clothing insulation Waterproof and moisture permeability, innovative production technology to reduce costs and other aspects.

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    Research on breast shape of young females using characteristic parameters
    ZHONG Zejun, ZHANG Beibei, XU Kaiyi, WANG Ruowen, GU Bingfei
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (10): 148-154.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210907607
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    In order to study young female's breast shape discrimination for improving the bra sizing system for the Chinese females, a definition method for defining breast boundary was proposed to ensure the consistency of breast shape measurement indexes. Raw data was collected by scanning 140 female college students using the [TC]2 scanner, and 28 breast measurement values including height, width, angle, and arc were extracted. Analysis of data was conducted by integrating coefficient of variation and correlation analysis methods, and 6 major parameters affecting breast morphology were identified as clustering indexes. K-means cluster was used to categorize the breast shapes into groups from the 3-D shape of the breast, and the breast shape was subdivided by the ratio of gathering degree and the young females' breast shape was divided into 9 categories. Based on the classification results on breast morphology, Fisher criterion function was used to verify the samples. The results show that the accuracy of overall judgment of the initial sample data based on morphological discrimination rules is as high as 97.1%, which shows that this criterion method has high accuracy, providing new ideas for the breast morphology research, and has a positive effect on the progress in the brassiere industry in China.

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    Review on thermal-drawn multimaterial fiber optoelectronics
    ZHANG Jing, HUANG Zhiheng, NIU Guangliang, LIANG Sheng, YANG Lüyun, WEI Lei, ZHOU Shifeng, HOU Chong, TAO Guangming
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (01): 11-20.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220606310
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    Significance With the rapid development of textile engineering and material science, intelligent fibers and related fabrics have become the preferred carriers for wearable electronics with their advantages in softness, lightness, and breathability. A variety of fiber manufacturing technologies has been developed, enabling conventional fibers with new capabilities such as environmental/physical/chemical sensing, logical computing, human-machine interaction, and so on. Among these manufacturing techniques, the thermal drawing process can be adopted to fabricate multimaterial optoelectronic fibers, providing an innovative research for intelligent fibers and fabrics. By enriching fiber structures, materials and post-treatment techniques, thermal-drawn fibers can be integrated with multiple functions such as multi-parameter sensing, temperature regulation, and information interaction, broadening the application scenarios of fibers.
    Progress Thermal-drawn multimaterial optoelectronic fibers are generally drawn from fiber preforms with a fiber drawing tower. The external forms, internal structures, and materials of fiber preforms can all be designed with great flexibility according to the applications and functions. The diameters of fibers are typically in the micron range, and the structures of the fibers are consistent with the preform rods. In addition, fiber post-treatment techniques, such as thermal treatment and cold-drawing process, can further enrich and modify the structures, giving more ways to improve the functionalities of fibers.
    With these advanced fiber drawing and processing technologies, micro- and nano-structured fibers can be achieved. For example, a low-loss CO2 laser-propagated photonic bandgap fiber has been achieved with a hollow core surrounded by a solid multilayer structure of high refractive-index contrast. The fiber has a large photonic bandgap and omnidirectional reflectivity. Nanowires, structural micro- and nanospheres, nanorods, and porous fibers have also been produced in a scalable way by the in-fiber fluid instability phenomena, cold-drawing deformation, and salt leaching techniques. Moreover, surface micro-nano imprinting technology has been utilized to construct specific fibers with micro/nano-surface patterns.
    The richness of structures and materials gives fibers a variety of advanced functionalities, such as sensing, energy management, neural probing, and information interaction. For sensing, the thermal-drawn fibers have been achieved with acoustic, photoelectric, strain, and chemical sensing. For energy management, fiber-based devices are enabled with the functions of passive temperature regulation and energy generation/storage. Thermal-drawn fibers have also been widely used as neural probes because of their flexibility, small size, and conductive property. In addition, semiconductor diodes and integrated circuits have been integrated into thermal-drawn fibers successfully, which empowers the fibers with the abilities of logical computing and information interaction.
    Conclusion and Prospect This work focuses on the research progress and application fields of thermal-drawn multimaterial fiber, reviews the regulation of the micro/nanostructures inside the fibers by thermal drawing, and discusses their applications in sensing, energy, biology and others with recent studies.
    However, there are still some limitations to thermal-drawn multimaterial fiber optoelectronics. 1) Only a few of materials and structures are investigated and applied into the system. 2) The mechanical properties and comfort of wearing of thermal-drawn fibers need to be improved. 3) It is still difficult to integrate multiple functions into one fiber. 4) The abilities of logical calculation and data management of the thermal-drawn fibers should be enhanced.
    The future research trends of thermal-drawn multimaterial optoelectronic fibers are discussed from five aspects: more material selection, complex fiber structure, textile processing, multi-function integration, and artificial intelligence. It is foreseen that current mono-functional thermal-drawn multimaterial optoelectronic fibers can be improved for higher integrations, better mechanical properties, and more intelligence. These advanced fibers can also be combined with conventional textiles to enable their functionalities, comfort of wearing, and applicability to scenarios.

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    Green innovation and development of textile industry under dual carbon goals
    DU Huanzheng, LIU Jiancheng, LU Sha
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (09): 120-128.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220307009
    Abstract486)   HTML42)    PDF(pc) (4143KB)(178)       Save

    In order to assist the textile industry to achieve the dual carbon goal, factors hindering the reduction of the textile industry carbon emissions are summarized. Based on the six-stage textile production lifecycle, including fiber manufacture, yarn and fabric production, dyeing and finishing, garment manufacturing, consumption and recycling, this paper summarized previous green innovation related literature in China and abroad. Addionally, a 4R(i.e., raise, replace, renew and regulate)carbon reduction strategy is proposed. On this basis, the green innovation path of textile industry is suggested from four directions: upgrading the industry structure, increasing the clean energy proportion, promoting the concept of green consumption, and improving the recycling system. It is suggested to achieve carbon peak and carbon neutrality in the textile industry in conjunction with adopting the carbon sink, carbon capture and storage, carbon trading and other management methods.

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    Preparation of binary thermochromic microcapsules and application in smart textiles
    WANG Chengcheng, GONG Xiaodan, WANG Zhen, MA Qunwang, ZHANG Liping, FU Shaohai
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (05): 38-42.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211108105
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    Aiming at large temperature range and serious hysteresis of the temperature-response microcapsules, a fast response binary thermochromic complex was prepared by mixing fluorane dye with amide group and hexadecanol uniformly. The apparent morphology of the highly sensitive thermochromic microcapsules were studied by scanning electron microscope, transmission electron microscope and thermogravimetric analyzer. Color changing smart textiles were developed with strong temperature sensitivity, and the morphology characteristics of smart textiles and color performance were studied. The results show that the size of the prepared highly sensitive thermosensitive color-changing microcapsules is 1 μm, and the core material load was about 65%, with satisfactory thermal stability. The prepared smart textiles with high sensitivity and temperature change have bright color, and the color change range is 40-42 ℃. The color change lag of heating and cooling process is less than 1 ℃ and the color change sensitivity is high.

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    Research progress in fabric defect detection based on deep learning
    WANG Bin, LI Min, LEI Chenglin, HE Ruhan
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (01): 219-227.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211105509
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    Significance With the development of science and technology, the improvement of product quality is highly demanded. Although the technologies used in producing textile products have undergone revolutionary advancement which contributes to the textile quality dramatically, defects in textile products such as fabrics remain to be a reality. Fabric defect detection plays an important role in textile industry, and fabric defect detection technology based on deep learning has been paid more and more attention. This paper reports a research and development progress in fabric defect detection based on deep learning.
    Progress Deep learning is mainly composed of four steps, i.e., defining model and loss function, training the model, finding optimization method and loop iteration. The research focus for fabric defect detection method based on deep learning mainly includes deep learning models such as convolution neural network (CNN) and automatic encoder (AE). The stack denoising automatic encoder based on Fisher criterion introduces deep learning into this field for the first time, which provides a new idea for the application of deep learning to the field of defect detection. Convolution neural network has achieved good results in the field of image recognition because of its strong nonlinear fitting ability. More precision-based detection algorithms based on candidate regions and more speed-based algorithms based on regression analysis are present. While the advantages of convolution neural network is exploited, other methods are used for exploring the possibility of combined use of models, and provide new ways for defect detection.
    Conclusion and Prospect Fabric defect detection methods based on deep learning in recent years are reviewed and summarized, and the effects of different models are compared in detail. Advantages, disadvantages and applicable scope of each model are analyzed, and future development of fabric defect detection method based on deep learning model is prospected. Deep learning models can improve the detection efficiency, but still have some deficiencies. In order to optimize the accuracy of fabric image defect detection, breakthrough should be made from the following aspects in the future. 1) High quality data sets should be established. 2) Specific evaluation criteria need to be established. 3) The applicability should be extended. A single detection method often has limitations, but when different defect detection methods are utilized to deal with different detection needs, the detection results are often different, therefore hybrid methods would have better applicability.

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    Preparation and properties of hexamethylenetetramine cross-linked phenolic fibers
    ZHAO Bobo, WANG Liang, LI Jingyu, WAN Gang, XIA Zhaopeng, LIU Yong
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (05): 57-62.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210500406
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    Aiming at the problem that the aldehyde crosslinking agent is harmful to the human body and the environment during the preparation of phenolic fibers, hexamethylenetetramine (HMTA) was used as crosslinking agent to prepare phenolic fiber in hydrochloric acid solution. The effects of crosslinking bath ratio, heating rate, crosslinking bath temperature and heat treatment temperature on the fiber mechanical properties and heat resistance were studied. The results show that the mechanical properties and thermal stability of phenolic fiber are greatly improved after crosslinked. The pre-crosslinked phenolic fiber was prepared under the condition that the mass ratio of HCl and HMTA is 1.2, the temperature of cross-linking bath is raised to 120 ℃ at a heating rate of 15 ℃/h and constant temperature for 1.5 h, and the cross-linked phenolic fiber obtained by treating at 200 ℃ in a vacuum atmosphere for 2 h. The maximum breaking strength of the cross-linked phenolic fibers reaches to 3.63 cN/dtex and breaking elongation is 7.7% respectively. The initial decomposition temperature reaches to 386 ℃ and the mass retention rate at 900 ℃ in a nitrogen atmosphere is 60.7%. The method used in this research for preparing phenolic fiber with HMTA as cross-linking agent has guiding significance for establishing the green and environmentally friendly production process route.

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    Research progress in aerogel materials application for textiles
    ZHAO Lunyu, SUI Xiaofeng, MAO Zhiping, LI Weidong, FENG Xueling
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (12): 181-189.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210501210
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    In order to clarify the definition of aerogel and explore its application value in textiles, the evolution of the definition and the domestic and international research status of aerogel-based textiles were reviewed and summarized. The preparation processes of three main application methods of aerogel in textiles, i.e., gel integral molding method, thermal bonding method and coating method, as well as their advantages and disadvantages were analyzed in detail. Focusing on the four application forms of aerogel-based textiles, including thermal protection textiles, warm and cold-proof textiles, super-hydrophobic textiles and noise and sound insulation textiles, this paper expounded the action mechanism of aerogel and pointed out the problems currently in these application forms. Finally, the review concluded that enhancing mechanical properties, optimizing material compatibility, reducing preparation cost and promoting intelligent transformation would be the significant development directions of aerogel materials for the textile field in the future.

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    Preparation and properties of polyurethane-based carbon nanotube/liquid metal conductive fibers
    XUE Chao, ZHU Hao, YANG Xiaochuan, REN Yu, LIU Wanwan
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (07): 29-35.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210506707
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    In order to improve the elastic properties of carbon nanotubes as conductive fillers, carbon nanotubes (CNT) and liquid metal (LM) were used as conductive fillers, thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) was used as matrix, N, N-dimethylformamide was used as solvent, and deionized water was used as coagulation bath to produce the CNT/LM/TPU conductive fibers through the wet spinning process. The effects of LM and CNT on the structure and properties of fibers were studied. The results show that when the conductive filler content is 40% for LM and 10% for CNT, the mechanical properties of CNT/LM/TPU fiber were greatly improved with the fracture stress reaching 10.16 MPa and the elongation at break 252%. The CNT/LM/TPU fiber has good electrical conductivity, which is 5.41 S/m. Circuit experiments show that the fiber can be used as a wire lighting circuit, and the circuit can still have current through under the strain levels of 100% and 200%. CNT/LM/TPU fiber has excellent recovery performance, and it still has stable resistance recovery after 20 repeated tensile loading. In addition, the fiber also had good antibacterial properties, and the antibacterial rate against Staphylococcus aureus reaches 92.61%.

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    Cotton impurity image detection based on improved RFB-MobileNetV3
    XU Jian, HU Daojie, LIU Xiuping, HAN Lin, YAN Huanying
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (01): 179-187.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210911809
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    Objective The complexity of deep convolutional neural network models makes it difficult for embedded devices to meet real-time online detection, and this research works on an improved RFB-MobileNetV3(RFB-MNV3) method for cotton impurity detection.
    Method Firstly, the MNV3 redundant network structure was reduced according to the construction of high-precision lightweight network model and the premise of ensuring high detection accuracy. Secondly, the 3×3 convolutional layer replaced the 5×5 convolutional layer and the 1×3+3×1 convolutional layer was folded to replace the 3×3 convolutional layer as the improved RFB module deployed to the pooling layer of the improved MNV3 to enhance the online detection speed and accuracy of cotton hash. Finally, the algorithm before and after the improvement and other detection algorithms were compared.
    Results The influence of training times, different lighting changes and different camera shift poses on the model was investigated using the test set. The improved RFB-MNV3 network model was iteratively trained to improve the average accuracy of cotton impurity classification. The specific classification detection effect under the improved RFB-MNV3 model showed that the detection accuracy was 83%-96% as suggested by the average AP values of the detection results for each category, among which the best effect was achieved in identifying cotton seeds with 96% accuracy (Fig.11). The value of the improved RFB-MNV3 algorithm reached 88.15%, indicating that the accuracy and score (the score of impurity detection under the optimized algorithm) have reasonably high stability, i.e. the model can better classify cotton impurity detection and can basically meet the actual industrial production needs. The detection results were compared with those of the MNV3, YOLOv3, VGG16 and ResNet34 network models (Tab.2). The detection time of the improved RFB-MNV3 model reached 0.02 s, and the online detection accuracy of the improved RFB-MNV3 model reached 89.05%, which is 6.83% higher than MNV3 and 8.48%-17.32% higher than other network models. The average accuracy mean combined with the accuracy and recall rates can be utilized to evaluate the comprehensive performance of image classification. It can be seen that the improved RFB-MNV3 model has a mean accuracy value that is 6.31% higher than MNV3 and 8.76%-17.72% higher than other networks.
    Conclusion The new network is improved on the basis of the MNV3 detection network, while the improved RFB-MNV3 module is combined to achieve the purpose of reducing the model parameters without basically losing the model accuracy, solving the problem that the complexity of the deep convolutional neural network model makes it difficult for the embedded device to meet the real-time online detection. The model proposed can effectively achieve the detection of lint images, while the model detection efficiency is high and the storage occupied is small, which can provide the necessary technical support for the development of embedded devices for lint image detection.

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    Preparation of aqueous dispersion system of bisneopentyl glycol dithiopyrophosphate and its application in flame-retardant viscose fiber
    XIONG Yonghui, WANG Dong, DU Changsen, FU Shaohai
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (07): 22-28.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210608607
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    To decrease the particle size of bisneopentyl glycol dithiopyrophosphate (DDPS), and improve the interface compatibility with viscose fibers (VF), the DDPS aqueous dispersion was prepared using non-ionic polyoxyethylene ether dispersants through an ultra-fine processing technology. The influence of dispersant structure on the particle size of DDPS was explored, the response surface method was used to optimize the ultra-fine process parameters. The DDPS aqueous dispersion was then blended into viscose spinning dope, and flame-retardant viscose fibers were prepared through the wet spinning process. The flame-retardant properties of the fibers were explored. The results show that the combination of tallow amine polyoxyethylene ether (TA10) and castor oil polyoxyethylene ether (EL90) has better synergistic dispersion effect for DDPS. With 4 h grinding time, 1 700 r/min grinding speed, and 1.2:1 mass ratio of TA10 to EL90, the median particle size of the DDPS dispersion system is 0.310 μm. The DDPS is evenly distributed in the flame-retardant viscose spinning dope and does not affect the spinnability of viscose collagen solution. Compared to VF, the peak heat release rate of flame-retardant viscose fibers decreases by 18.8 % and the limiting oxygen index increases from 19% to 31.31% when DDPS is 20%.

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    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (07): 220-220.  
    Abstract433)      PDF(pc) (53694KB)(278)       Save
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    Determination of molecular weight and Mark-Houwink parameters of bio-based polyamide 56
    WANG Lijuan, GONG Yumei, LI Xiaoyan, WANG Ying, HAO Xinmin, FAN Lijun
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (07): 36-40.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210600705
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    In order to quickly evaluate the molecular weight of the bio-based polyamide 56 (PA56), the molecular weight parameters K and α of Mark-Houwink equation for bio-based PA56 were calculated by measuring the molecular weight and fluidity of the solution. Bio-based PA56 was dissolved in 90% formic acid (FA) and hexafluoroisopropanol (HFIP) respectively, and the intrinsic viscosity of the dilute solution was determined at 25 ℃. It was found reasonable to use the limit of specific concentration viscosity as intrinsic viscosity value in solvent FA which formed strong hydrogen bond with PA56, but in solvent HFIP that was unable to form strong hydrogen bond with bio-based PA56, the specific concentration and logarithmic viscosity limits intersect at a point where intrinsic viscosity was determined. The molecular weight parameters of bio-based PA56 in FA were found to be α=0.77 and K=7.088×10-3 cm3/g, and the molecular weight parameters in HFIP were α=0.90 and K=2.140×10-3 cm3/g.

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    Effect of feeding forms on carding efficiency by licker-in roller of high yield carding machine
    NI Jingda
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (08): 7-11.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220409506
    Abstract415)   HTML15)    PDF(pc) (1431KB)(72)       Save

    For the new type of high yield flat carder, with the problems of low output,high noil rate, low noil impurity rate and poor quality of sliver and yarn of the medium cotton production, which is produced in the form of forward feeding. The advantages and disadvantages of forward and reverse feeding form were analyzed. For the same type of carding machine, two kinds of feeding forms were used respectively to compare the influence of feeding form on the carding effect of high yield carding machine. Experiments were carried out to verify the effect of feeding form on combed cotton yarn and color spun cotton yarn. The results show that reverse feeding can increase carding machine output, and improve the carding ability between feeding and licker-in roller, and reduce noil cotton rate, and improve noil cotton impurity rate. The carding and impurity removal burden in the main carding area around cylinder is reduced. The quality of sliver and yarn has been improved. The service life of carding equipment has been extended. The advantages of reverse feeding of carding machine are especially for the production of medium cotton yarn and color spun yarn.

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    Preparation and sensing response characterization of polydopamine modified reduced graphene oxide/polypyrrole conductive fabrics
    WAN Ailan, SHEN Xinyan, WANG Xiaoxiao, ZHAO Shuqiang
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (01): 156-163.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210601908
    Abstract415)   HTML22)    PDF(pc) (10204KB)(168)       Save

    Objective Conductive fabric can be easily fabricated into smart clothes comfortable to wear. However, a common problem is that a large mismatch in mechanical properties between the conductive layer and the fabric substrate affects the performance of the flexible sensors. In order to improve the interfacial adhesion between the conductive layer and fabric, and construct an effective contact conductive network to obtain excellent sensing response characteristics, a reduced graphene oxide (RGO) and polypyrrole (PPy) flexible sensor was prepared by surface modification of polyester-spandex knitted fabric with polydopamine (PDA).
    Method A knitted fabric substrate was modified by PDA, a PDA-RGO fabric was prepared by impregnation-drying and chemical reduction, and PPy was self-assembled on the PDA-RGO fabric via in-situ polymerization. The PDA modified RGO/PPy conductive fabric sensor was characterized and analyzed by Fourier infrared spectrometry (FT-IR), X-ray diffraction (XRD), scanning electron microscopy (SEM), a self-made KTC sensor box, a four-probe square resistance tester, a Martindale abrasion and pilling tester and a universal tensile testing machine.
    Results The PDA fabric, PDA-RGO fabric, PDA-RGO/PPy fabric and RGO/PPy fabric were prepared. A comparative study of the influence of PDA modification on the electrical conductivity and sensing properties of knitted fabrics was then carried out. The results indicated that the PDA filled the gaps among the yarns of the knitted fabric and improved the continuity of the conductive layer. The square resistance of the conductive fabrics showed that PDA enhanced the conductivity of the conductive fabric. The square resistance of the PDA-RGO/PPy fabric was about 0.08 kΩ/□. The PDA-modified knitted fabric had a strong adsorption to the conductive layer. RGO and PPy had a synergistic effect on the electrical properties, and the conductive fabrics containing RGO/PPY had better conductivity than fabrics with a single conductive component. The conductive layer of the PDA-modified RGO/PPY fabric had increased interfacial bonding by virtue of the bonding of the PDA. The change in resistance after rubbing was smaller for the PDA-RGO/PPy fabric than for the RGO/PPy fabric (Fig.5). The study of fabric sensing characteristics showed that PDA-RGO/PPy fabric had better sensing properties than RGO/PPy fabric. The stretching range of the PDA-RGO/PPy fabric flexible sensor was 0%~130%, the sensitivity was increased to 39.1, and the response time was 0.06 s. Moreover, the peak value of the relative change of resistance of PDA-RGO/PPy fabric was essentially the same for different stretching rate (Fig.6), proving the accuracy of this flexible sensor. This phenomenon can be explained by the fact that PDA deformed the conductive layer synchronously with the fabric substrate. The PDA-RGO/PPy fabric flexible sensor can be worn on joints such as fingers, wrists and knees to monitor motions. The fabric flexible sensor captures the motions steadily and outputs the relative change of resistance (Fig.11).
    Conclusion The results of above characterizations indicate that the interfacial adhesion between the PDA-modified fabric and RGO/PPy is significantly improved, and the conductive network is constructed more continuous. Compared with unmodified fabrics, the modified fabrics has improved durability and rubbing resistance. The experimental results show that the sensing mechanism of the fabric sensor is mainly the disconnection mechanism and crack propagation. Monitoring of different joint motions can be achieved according to the resistance change curve and the data can be used for building human joint motion sensing systems. In the future, the conductive properties of the PDA-RGO/PPy fabric flexible sensor can be optimized by controlling the combination options and shape of the conductive materials for further adjusting the surface morphology of the conductive layer.

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    Research progress in key technologies of spun yarn warp knitting production
    JIANG Gaoming, CHENG Bilian, WAN Ailan, LI Bingxian
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (05): 7-11.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211206706
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    In view of the problems of low strength, high hairiness, small elongation, high twist and high cost in warp knitting production using spun fiber yarns, the warping technology, high-speed production technology, clean production technology, intelligent production and fully formed warp knitting production technology in the production of spun yarn warp knitting were summarized in this paper. By summarizing the yarn quality requirements of spun yarn for warp knitting, including yarn breaking strength, surface hairiness and elongation properties, the problems and solutions of spun yarn warp knitting technology were further analyzed. Through introducing the application status and production situation of spun yarn warp knitted products in the fields of shirt fabrics, underwear fabrics, trousers and lace fabrics, the future development direction of spun yarn warp knitted technology was prospected, pointing out that the production technology of spun yarn warp knitting is gradually going towards specialization, high quality and functionality.

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    One-bath pad dyeing technology for polyester/cotton fabric
    LIU Yu, XIE Ruyi, SONG Yawei, QI Yuanzhang, WANG Hui, FANG Kuanjun
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (05): 18-25.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211109108
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    To solve the problems of process complexity, high water and energy consumption, high carbon and waste water emissions in dyeing process of polyester/cotton fabric, a disperse/reactive dye one-bath two-step pad dyeing method of polyester/cotton was investigated. The stability of disperse/reactive mixed dye solution in different pH conditions was analyzed. The effects of baking temperature, baking time, pH, type and concentration of alkali, steaming time on fabric dyeing were discussed using Disperse Blue 79 and K, KN and M Reactive Dyes. The energy consumption of the one-bath pad dyeing process and traditional process were evaluated and compared. The results show that fabrics dyed using the one-bath two-step method achieve the same color depth compared with the traditional dyeing process. The rubbing fastness and washing fastness reach grade 4-5. Take Disperse Blue 79 and Reactive Blue 19 for example, compared with the traditional two-bath pad dyeing process, the one-bath pad dyeing process reduces water consumption by 45.5%, electricity consumption by 20.9%, heat consumption by 41.7% and CO2 emission by 40.6% per 10 000 m of polyester/cotton fabric.

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    Nondestructive testing on damage of carbon fiber composites using ultrasonic C-scanning
    FANG Zhouqian, MIAO Peiyuan, JIN Xiaoke, ZHU Chengyan, TIAN Wei
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (10): 71-76.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210903306
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    With respect to the hole defects of the carbon fiber composites, the ultrasonic C-scan imaging detection technology was used to scan the specimens with holes, and the position of the defects obtained C-scan were analyze. The holed specimens were scanned, and the appearance of the scanned image was analyzed for causing reasons. Cluster analysis was performed to establish the relationship between the actual area of the defect and the detection area, and reflection scanning and scanning electron microscopy were carried out for the holed specimens and the composite delamination was analyzed according to the scanning waveform and electron microscopy. The research results show that there is a one-to-one correspondence between the C-scan image and the position of the composite material defect, and that when the hole diameter is larger than the beam width of the focusing probe, the edge of the hole does not affect the beam penetration and energy loss. The work indicated that the ultrasonic C-scan imaging detection technology can further verify holes and delamination defects.

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    Key technology for yarn automatic splicer
    MAO Huimin, SUN Lei, TU Jiajia, SHI Weimin
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (09): 21-26.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220400606
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    The existing splicing devices in knitting workshops are only applicable to some limited yarn types and it is difficult to splice automatically on the yarn frame. This research simulated the manual knotting process and designed a small mechanical splicer consisting of negative pressure thread suction, thread pressing, tensioning, mechanical knotting and thread picking mechanism. In parallel to the analysis of construction and motion principle of the knotting and thread picking mechanisms, the knotting method and process were simulated and analyzed, leading to the development of a prototype for experimental testing. The experimental results show that the mechanical splicer can simulate the manual knotting by using the interplay between the knotting mechanism and the thread picking mechanism to draw and join two yarns together, and the success rate of knotting is higher than 99%, and it is structurally compact and applicable for wide range yarn types.

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    Research progress in smart fabrics for thermal and humidity management
    CHEN Jiahui, MEI Tao, ZHAO Qinghua, YOU Haining, WANG Wenwen, WANG Dong
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (01): 30-37.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220705708
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    Significance With rapid development of today's social population and the increasing scarcity of fossil energy, a huge contradiction arose between the surge in energy consumption, e.g., from air conditioning, and the global goals of "carbon peaking" and "carbon neutrality". The large amount of greenhouse gas emissions caused by air-conditioning, refrigeration and heating have also become an urgent problem to be solved. Therefore, it is necessary to seek a new method for effectively adjusting the thermal and moist comfort of the human body so as to reduce the energy consumption caused by air conditioning. Textiles can also play a role in managing human comfort in daily life, but would mainly rely on the thickness of clothing to regulate human body temperature. In order to better meet the modern day requirements for life comfort, the active adjustment of smart textiles has demonstrated the potential for adjusting the human body's thermal and moist comfort, thereby reducing the energy consumption in the process of cooling and heating by air conditioning. Under the premise of the "double carbon" goal, this has could be a promising solution.
    Progress This review summarizes the research progress in adjusting the thermal and moist comfort of the human body by using smart fabrics. The principle of regulating the thermal and moist condition of the human body through the fabric is introduced. In addition, the researches and mechanisms of the current study on regulating the thermal and moist comfort of the human body by means of fabric materials or fabric structures have been summarized. Coating or combining high-performance materials was adopted to prepare thermal and moist comfort fabrics aiming to regulating human body temperature. High infrared reflection materials such as silver and titanium dioxide, high thermal conductivity materials such as boron nitride nanosheets (BNNSs), and high infrared transmission materials such as polyethylene (PE) are proposed. All of these high-performance materials can be used for raising or decreasing the body temperature. The review also introduces the thermal and moist comfort adjustment of smart fabrics caused by different fibers and fabric structures, such as thermal fabrics made of porous fibers, moisture-absorbing and quick-drying fabrics caused by asymmetric structures, and intelligent adjustment fabric that can respond to changes in fabric pore size caused by external temperature and humidity. Finally, this review paper analyzed and discussed the current difficulties and challenges in smart fabrics with different fabrication methods.
    Conclusion and Prospect The smart fabric that can manage thermal and humid conditions of human body is necessary and the key is energy shortage. However, the performances of the thermal management, humidity management or thermal and humidity management of the recent smart fabric are directly affected and limited by the materials. Few high-performance functional materials can be utilized to fabricate smart fabrics. In addition, the main technical means of preparing thermal and moist comfort smart fabrics are coatings and material composites. However, the stability of coatings, the compatibility of composite materials, and the difficulty of industrial production limit the development of thermal and moist comfort smart fabrics. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare new fibers that can respond to external heat and humidity stimuli, so as to realize the preparation of fabrics that can intelligently regulate human body temperature and humidity. Additionally, the ease of construction, preparation, and large-scale production of fibers can reduce the cost of smart fabric production. Finally, the current preparation methods and functional principles of intelligent thermal-moist comfort fabrics are summarized, and a low-cost and large-scale preparation method for intelligent thermal-moist comfort fabrics is proposed by technological innovation of fibers.

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    Preparation of polyamide 6-based elastic fibers and its structure and properties
    YANG Hanbin, ZHANG Shengming, WU Yuhao, WANG Chaosheng, WANG Huaping, JI Peng, YANG Jianping, ZHANG Tijian
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (03): 1-10.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211005610
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    Objective The binary acid method can be used for preparing polyamide 6 (PA6) based elastomer easily and efficiently, but stoichiometric number balance is strictly required when feeding. Once the molecular mass of the soft and hard segments is determined, the proportion of the soft and hard segments cannot be changed, which limits the development of functional products.The paper is to propose a new polymerization method based on the binary acid method to flexibly adjust the relative molecular weight and proportion of the soft and hard segments of PA6-based elastomers and to provide the basis for the subsequent research of PA6-based elastomers.

    Method On the basis of the binary acid method, ethylene glycol is introduced to participate in the esterification and ester exchange reaction between polyamide 6 and polyether segments. With the ethylene glycol component, the system can ensure the balance of stoichiometry and adjust the ratio of soft and hard segments more flexibly to obtain the PA6-based elastomer. All reactions for preparing the PA6-based elastomer were performed in a 10 L reactor with a vacuum pump, a vacuum tube, and a nitrogen cyllinder.

    Results It can be seen from the infrared spectra of the polymer that there are ester bonds in the product, indicating that ethylene glycol and polyethylene glycol were introduced into the system in the form of copolymerization (Fig.3). The structure of PA6 based elastomer (Fig.4), and combined with the peak (Fig.5), six bonding structures of PA6-based elastomer were made known. The relative integral area of the peak was introduced into equations (5) and (6), and it was proved that the molecular mass and PEG segment content were consistent with the design. The contents of low molecular extractants in PA6 based elastomer (Tab.4). The low content of low molecular extractants was conducive to the subsequent melt spinning of PA6-based elastomer. When the molecular weight of the soft and hard segments was given, the crystallization enthalpy and melting enthalpy of PEG segments would increase with the increase of the content of PEG segments, and the crystallization enthalpy and melting enthalpy of PA6 segments would decrease accordingly (Fig.7). With the same content of soft and hard segments, when the molecular mass ratio of hard segment to soft segment (Mn,PA6/Mn,PEG) increases, the melting and crystallization temperatures of PA6 and PEG segments would increase (Fig.8). It can be seen that the smaller the PEG content, the greater Mn,PA6/Mn,PEG, the higher the thermal stability of the resulting elastomer (Tab.5). It can be seen that the characteristic peaks of PA6 based elastomers were consistent with those of PA6, indicating that the crystal structure of this series of PA6-based elastomers was solely determined by PA6 chain segments(Fig.9). It can be seen that the elasticity of PA6 based elastic fibers increases with the increase of the PEG segment content, while the fracture strength and fracture elongation of fibers decrease sharply (Fig.10). It is evident that with the decrease of PEG segment content and the increase of Mn,PA6/Mn,PEG, the main chain structure of PA6 based elastic fiber is similar to that of pure PA6, and the fracture strength and elongation of the fiber increase (Tab.6).

    Conclusion After the introduction of ethylene glycol, a series of PA6-based elastomers were prepared by changing the molecular weight and feeding ratio of polyethylene glycol (PEG) to PA6, making PA6-based elastomers more designable. The molecular structure design of a series of PA6-based elastomers was verified to be effective through the analysis of 1H-NMR and infrared spectra. The thermodynamic properties, the crystal structure, the fiber mechanical properties and the elastic properties of the series of PA6-based elastomer samples were tested and analyzed. The results show that the crystal structure of PA6-based elastomer is dominated by PA6 segments. With the increase of the PEG segment content, the elastic recovery of fiber increased, and the strength and elongation of fiber decreased. Compared with PA6 fibers, elastic fibers with above 20% PEG content shows higher resilience at high constant elongation (≥10%), the elastic recovery rate are increased by up to 17.5%. PA6-based elastic fiber is found to possess encouraging comprehensive properties, among which the strength is 1.57 cN/dtex, the elongation is 106.89%, and the elastic recovery at 10% constant elongation is 94.3%.

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    Polyethylene glycol modified thermoplastic epoxy resin and its spinnability
    HU Baoji, ZHANG Qiaoling, WANG Xu
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (02): 63-68.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220806106
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    Objective Thermoplastic epoxy resin has excellent mechanical properties and can be melted and reprocessed, but its melting processing temperature is relatively high which needs to be reduced. In order to develop thermoplastic epoxy resin as textile material and to reveal its potential application in the engineering field, on the basis of studying its mechanical and thermodynamic properties, the spinning temperature of thermoplastic epoxy resin needs to be regulated by melting dispersion polyethylene glycol (PEG).
    Method Thermoplastic epoxy resin film was prepared by polymerizing-hot pressing process. The pellets of thermoplastic epoxy resin/PEG were further developed by the process of PEG melt-dispersion, and the epoxy resin/PEG filament was prepared by the process of melt-drawing. The mechanical and thermodynamic properties of thermoplastic epoxy resin film were analyzed. The influence of PEG on the spinnability of thermoplastic epoxy resin was discussed, and the mechanical and thermodynamic properties of PEG modified epoxy resin/PEG filament were analyzed.
    Results The yield stress of the thermoplastic epoxy resin film is found to reach 64.6 MPa and the breaking strain 117.4%. The storage modulus of thermoplastic epoxy resin film at 25 ℃ is found as high as 2 296 MPa, and the glass transition temperatures 100.2 ℃. PEG significantly reduces the extrusion force of epoxy resin/PEG pellets. Compared with pure epoxy resin pellets, the extrusion force of epoxy resin/PEG pellets with 5% PEG content is reduced by 870 N at 300 ℃. The spinning temperature of pure thermoplastic epoxy resin pellets is as high as 300 ℃, and the extrusion force is about 1.92 kN at this spinning temperature. With the increase of PEG content, the extrusion force of epoxy resin/PEG pellets can reach about 1.9 kN during the spinning of pure epoxy resin pellets at lower temperature. Epoxy resin/PEG pellets with different PEG content can be spun into epoxy resin/PEG filament by melt-drawing process at the mixing temperature of 290 ℃ (PEG content: 2.5%), 280 ℃ (PEG content: 5%) and 270 ℃ (PEG content: 7.5%), respectively. Compared with pure epoxy resin pellets, the spinning temperature of epoxy resin/PEG pellets with 7.5% PEG content decreased by 30 ℃. PEG also improves the drawing effect of thermoplastic epoxy resin in spinning. In terms of diameter, the diameter of the epoxy resin/PEG filament with 7.5% PEG content is 50 μm lower than that of the pure epoxy resin filament. Compared with pure epoxy resin filament, the mechanical properties of thermoplastic epoxy resin/PEG filament are significantly improved; the breaking strain and breaking stress of the epoxy resin/PEG filament with 2.5% PEG content were increased by 60% and 20 MPa, respectively. PEG reduces the glass transition temperature of epoxy resin/PEG filament. Compared with pure epoxy resin filament, the glass transition temperature of epoxy resin/PEG filament with 7.5% PEG content is reduced by 20.9 ℃.
    Conclusion Thermoplastic epoxy resin film developed in this research has high mechanical properties and thermal stability. The thermoplastic epoxy resin has the advantages of melting and reprocessing. At the same spinning temperature, the PEG-dispersed thermoplastic epoxy resin pellets have a lower extrusion force, so the spinning temperature can be controlled by the modification of PEG. The melt-dispersion process provides a new method for modification of thermoplastic epoxy resin by PEG. High spinnability of thermoplastic epoxy resin/PEG system was achieved by adjusting the spinning temperature of thermoplastic epoxy resin. The melt-dispersed PEG can significantly improve the spinnability of the thermoplastic epoxy resin, and the developed thermoplastic epoxy resin/PEG filament has higher mechanical properties.

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    Research progress in bulletproof flexible textile materials and structures
    CHU Yanyan, LI Shichen, CHEN Chao, LIU Yingying, HUANG Weihan, ZHANG Yue, CHEN Xiaogang
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (12): 203-212.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210607910
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    In view of the contradiction between lightweight and high protection of soft flexible impact resistant textiles, research progress in new fibers and film materials, fiber surface modification and structural design are reviewed. The theoretical strength, preparation methods and macro preparation problems about new fibers and film materials, including graphene and carbon nanotube are analyzed. The modification methods and impact resistance effects of shear thicken fluids and nano inorganic materials on the fiber surface are examined. The advantages and disadvantages of single-layer fabric structure and laminated structure have been analyzed and the application prospects of aerogel composite structure and hard-soft bionic structure used for impact resistance are expounded. It is pointed out that on the basis of fulfilling the requirements of impact resistance, coordination between comfort and impact resistance can be achieved through the combined design of surface modification, fabric structure, interlayer structure, and the hybrid use of hard and soft structures. The macro quantitative defect-free preparation of high-purity graphene and carbon nanotube fibers or films overcome the technical bottleneck for much lighter impact resistance textiles in the future.

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    Preparation and properties of polypyrole/silk fibroin conductive nanofiber membranes
    YU Yangxiao, LI Feng, WANG Yuyu, WANG Shanlong, WANG Jiannan, XU Jianmei
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (10): 16-23.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210906708
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    In order to develop tissue regeneration materials with certain electrical conductivity, we prepared silk fibroin nanofiber membranes using electrospinning and further polypyrrole/silk fibroin conductive nanofiber membranes by in-situ oxidative polymerization. The effect of spinning parameters on the surface morphology of nanofiber membrane was studied. The electrical conductivity of nanofiber membrane was tested by the four-point probe. FT-IR spectrometer was used to characterize the chemical structure of nanofiber membrane. The results showed that silk fibroin nanofiber membranes have an even surface with less beads, with an average fiber diameter of (520.70±140.81) nm, when solution concentration was 0.16 g/mL, flow rate 0.2 mL/h, voltage 20 kV, rotating speed 1 000 r/min. Polypyrrole/silk fibroin conductive nanofiber membranes was prepared by in-situ oxidative polymerization, and it retains its original nano fiber structure, and the electrical conductivity is (0.44±0.07) S/cm, when the pyrrole concentration was 0.3 mol/L, dopant concentration 0.3 mol/L, the ratio of fixed pyrrole to oxidant 1∶2, and the polymerization time 6 h.

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    Research progress of biochemical protective clothing
    LI Chenfei, LIU Yuanjun, ZHAO Xiaoming
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (07): 207-216.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210308710
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    In order to fully understand the performance requirements of biochemical protective clothing, the classification and moisture permeability mechanism of four types of biochemical protective clothing were introduced. The research progress of rubber based protective materials, ion exchange membrane materials, disinfection polymer materials and other polymer composite materials used in biochemical protective clothing was examined, and the research status of biochemical protective clothing was introduced. The new technologies used in biological protective clothing, including self-healing technology and electrospinning technology, were summarized, providing new ideas for the development of biological protective clothing. According to the development status of biochemical protective clothing, the current problems were pointed out, and the future research trend was prospected. It is concluded that although the biochemical protective materials are developed with rapid pace, many problems remain in their industrialization. The future work should be focused on the expansion and improvement of the protection scope and performance, making them more comfortable to wear with intelligence.

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    Dyeing properties of polylactic acid/polyketone fibers with disperse dye
    CHEN Peng, LIAO Shihao, SHEN Lanping, WANG Xuan, WANG Peng
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (05): 12-17.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211206506
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    To improve dyeing performance of polylactic acid (PLA) fibers, Disperse Blue 79 was used to dye polylactic acid/polyketone (PLA/PK) blend fibers. The influence of dyeing temperature, time, pH value and other factors were investigated, with the dyeing kinetics and thermodynamic behavior analyzed. The optimal processing parameters were identified, which are dyeing temperature of 110 ℃, holding time of 40 min, and pH value of 5. With increased PK content, the K/S value of the blend fibers increases significantly and the color fastness to rubbing and soaping remains over level 3,the equilibrium adsorption amount of Disperse Blue 79 dye on the blend fiber increases, the half dyeing time decreases, and the diffusion coefficient increases, further confirming the improved dyeing properties of the blend fiber. The adsorption isotherms of Disperse Blue 79 dye to PLA fiber and blended fibers are calculated by fitting, showing a composite curve of Nernst and Langmuir.

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    Preparation and properties of aramid/flame retardant viscose/flame retardant polyamide blended fabrics
    CHEN Junxian, LI Weiping, FU Qixuan, FENG Xinxing, ZHANG Hua
    Journal of Textile Research    2022, 43 (09): 107-114.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210809408
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    In order to obtain fabrics with long-term flame retardancy, which are strong, wear-resistant and with satisfactory wearability, aramid 1414, flame retardant viscose and flame retardant polyamide were blended for producing woven flame retardant fabrics. The influence of fiber blend ratio, strand twist, fabric structure and adhesive types on the mechanical properties, flame retardancy and color fastness of the fabric was discussed. The results show that the aramid 1414/flame retardant viscose/flame retardant polyamide blend ratio 30/45/25 leads to optimal mechanical properties and flame retardancy. Compared with the fabric using aramid/flame retardant viscose blended yarn, the 3-component yarn demonstrates a 56% increase in breaking strength, 58% increase in abrasion resistance. The mechanical properties of the yarn are improved as the twist level increases and peak at 680 twist/m, but decrease with further increase of yarn twist. The flame retardancy and mechanical properties of the fabric with twill weave are better than that of fabrics with plain weave and satin weave. By using non-ionic acrylate copolymer G-BD as binder in printing paste, the color fastness grade of the high-strength, wear-resistant and flame retardant fabric can be kept above grade 2 after washing for 20 times.

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    Preparation and properties of phosphorus-silicon modified flame retardant and anti-dripping polyester fiber
    REN Jiawei, ZHANG Shengming, JI Peng, WANG Chaosheng, WANG Huaping
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (02): 1-10.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220809410
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    Objective Polyester fibers are flammable with a large number of molten droplets and smoke emission when burning. This research aims to improve the flame retardant properties of polyester fibers through the addition of phosphorus and silicon flame retardants, and to prepare polyester fibers with better flame retardant properties for fire safety in end uses.
    Method The phosphorus-silicon flame retardant masterbatch was prepared by blending diethyl hypophosphite flame retardant, macromolecular silicone and polyester. Then, the phosphorus-silicon flame retardant masterbatch was added to the polyester according to an optimized mass fraction, and the flame retardant and anti-dripping polyester fiber was produced by melt spinning. The mechanical properties, thermal properties and flame retardant properties of the flame retardant polyester were characterized and analyzed by using scanning electron microscope, compound filament strength meter, differential scanning calorimeter, thermogravimetric analyzer, ultimate oxygen index meter and Raman spectroscopy.
    Results The diethyl hypophosphite flame retardant selected in this work is found to be able to dehydrate the polyester surface into char, and the macromolecular silicone enhances the graphitization of the char layer, forms an orderly and stable char layer, enhances the flame retardant polyester flame retardant properties and inhibits the formation of molten droplets. Accordingly, the amount of smoke formed by combustion decreases, and the morphology of the char layer of the samples after combustion is shown in Fig. 5, and the results of the char layer structure stability study were shown in Fig. 6. It is discovered that macromolecular silicone mainly plays a role in the cohesive phase flame retardant process when polyester burns, forming a synergistic effect with phosphorus-containing flame retardant, generating an effective physical barrier, impeding the transfer of combustible gases, oxygen and heat, and inhibiting the occurrence of combustion reactions. The flame retardant polyester fiber spun by adding 3% diethyl hypophosphite flame retardant and 0.77% macromolecular silicone, the test results for the flame retardant properties of the modified samples are showed that the limiting oxygen index reached more than 31%, the vertical combustion test grade reached V-0 level, inhibiting the formation of molten droplets of polyester fiber during combustion, hence reducing the risk of secondary combustion brought about by the molten droplet phenome-non(Tab. 7).
    Conclusion The flame retardant synergistic effect between phosphorus and silicon elements improved the spinnability of the flame retardant polyester fiber, and the modified polyester fiber has good flame retardant and anti-dripping properties. This work proved that the phosphorus-silicon element synergy is helpful to improve the flame retardant properties of polyester fibers, and provides ideas for the subsequent preparation of flame retardant polyester fibers by using different structural flame retardants from the viewpoint of conformational relationship and processing performance.

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    Fabrication and oil absorbency of superhydrophobic and elastic silk fibroin fibrils aerogel
    YANG Qiliang, YANG Haiwei, WANG Dengfeng, LI Changlong, ZHANG Lele, WANG Zongqian
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (09): 1-10.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220408901
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    Objective Silk fibroin (SF) aerogels prepared by conventional regeneration-dissolution process generally suffer from poor mechanical elasticity, resulting in weak oil absorption performance of the hydrophobically modified SF aerogels. This research aims to prepare highly elastic SF-based aerogels with excellent oil absorption properties for practical applications by using SF micro-nanofibrils (SMNF) aerogels as carriers, following the hydrophobic modification.

    Method The SMNF aerogels were fabricated by a freeze-induced assembly process using low-melting solvent liquid-phase exfoliated SMNF as precursors. Subsequently, the SMNF aerogel was hydrophobically modified by a methyltrimethoxysilane (MTMS) chemical vapor deposition strategy. The microstructure, element distribution and mechanical properties of MTMS modified SMNF (MS) aerogel were characterized by scanning electron microscopy, energy dispersive spectroscopy, infrared spectroscopy and universal material testing machine. Meanwhile, the oil absorbency of MS aerogel was systematically studied.

    Results The urea/guanidine hydrochloride deep eutectic solvent liquid-phase exfoliated SMNF retained the micro-nanoscale fibril structures of natural silk fibers (Fig.1), facilitating the construction of highly elastic SF aerogels. The resulting MS aerogel was characterized by hierarchical cellular architectures (Fig. 2), which endowed it with low density (5.36 mg/cm3) and high porosity (99.63%). The MS aerogel exhibited high compressi-bility (15.72 kPa at a strain of 80%) and superior fatigue resilience (over 81% relative height retention after 100 cycles) (Fig. 4). The results of energy dispersive spectroscopy and infrared spectroscopy confirmed that the siloxane network structures were formed on the aerogel surface after MTMS modification (Fig. 3), endowing SMNF aerogel with superhydrophobicity (water contact angle of 150.9°) (Fig. 5). Consequently, MS aerogels demonstrated strong absorption capacity for various oil agents with the oil absorption capacity of 84.48-188.75 g/g (Fig. 7). More importantly, owing to the high elasticity and stable skeleton structure, MS aerogel displayed excellent repeatable oil absorption performance (Fig. 8, Fig. 9).

    Conclusion Highly elastic and superhydrophobic MS aerogels were fabricated by urea/guanidine hydrochloride low eutectic solvent liquid phase exfoliation, freeze-induced assembly, and MTMS chemical vapor deposition modification. The assembled MS aerogels were characterized by hierarchical fibril networks and hierarchical cellular structures, which endowed MS aerogels with exceptional properties, including low density, high porosity and superelastic performance. Benefiting from the above features, the superelastic and superhydrophobic MS aerogel not only showed strong absorb ability to various oil agents, but also had excellent repeated oil absorption performance. This work provides a reliable approach for the fabrication of highly elastic and superhydrophobic SF aerogels and endows application prospects in oil absorption opportunities.

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    Influence of yarn twist on properties of cotton/spandex/silver wire core spun yarns
    LI Long, WU Lei, LIN Siling
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (01): 100-105.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211100606
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    Objective The application of conductive yarns in flexible and wearable smart devices has attracted extensive attention from many researchers. The key objectives of this research included preparing elastic and conductive yarns with excellent textile properties such as color attributes, wearing comfort, and environmental friendliness.
    Method In order to prepare a conductive yarn with favorable textile properties, cotton roving, silver wire and spandex were selected as the raw materials. By designing the feeding of raw materials and attaching a positioning device between the front roller and the yarn guide in the ring spinning machine, an elastic conductive core yarn with spandex as the core, silver yarn and cotton fibers as the sheath with cotton fibers on the surface of the yarn was produced to investigate the influence of yarn twist on the elasticity, conductivity, abrasion resistance and breaking strength of the core spun yarn. Using the model of silver wire tightly wrapped around the spandex surface (Fig.2), the theoretical value of the length of silver wire wrapped around the spandex surface in the core spun yarn with different yarn twist was calculated.
    Results The experimental results showed that the elasticity of core spun yarn varied with yarn twist, and the elasticity of core spun yarn at constant elongation and at constant load was larger at a yarn twist of 70 twist/(10 cm) than yarns with other yarn twists (Fig.4). In the unstretched straight state of the core spun yarn, the measured resistance of the yarn increased with the increase of yarn twist (Tab. 2), because increasing the yarn twist causes the pitch of the wrapping silver wire to decrease and the length of the silver wire in the unit length of core spun yarn to increase. At 10% elongation of the core spun yarn, the measured resistance of the yarn was smaller than that of the same length of core spun yarn in the unstretched state, and the difference between the measured resistance of the same length of core yarn in the elongated state and in the unstretched state was smaller at a twist of 75 twist/(10 cm) (Tab. 3). At 10% elongation of the core spun yarn, the measured resistance of the core yarn per unit length was greater than the theoretical resistance of the straight silver wire, indicating that when the core spun yarn elongation is at 10%, the silver wire in the yarn was not at the completely straightened state, and the yarn elongation caused the pitch of the silver wire over the spandex became larger and the actual length of the silver wire in the core spun yarn per unit length became smaller. At 75 twist/(10 cm), the core spun yarn showed higher wear resistance. Because when the twist is too high, the torque of cotton fibers in the yarn is high, the fiber stress increases, causing the cotton fibers to be easily worn off and the wear resistance of the core spun yarn is reduced.
    Conclusion The elasticity and conductivity of core spun yarn are closely related to the yarn twist level. For the actual core spun yarns, the silver wire is not tightly wrapped around the surface of the spandex core, and there are cotton fibers between the spandex and the silver wire, causing the theoretical resistance value per unit length to be smaller than the measured resistance value. Since cotton fibers can be dyed in different colors and the cotton fibers are distributed on the surface of the core spun yarn, this work can be used to further develop elastic and conductive yarns in different colors and comfortable to wear for the transmission of electrical signals in smart wearable textiles, powering electronic textiles, and electrical heating devices. The preparation process of this core spun yarn is environmental friendly. In the application of flexible and wearable smart devices, such elastic and conductive core spun yarsn have a good development prospect.

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    Preparation of cellulose/carbon nanotube composite fiber and its functional applications
    PU Haihong, HE Pengxin, SONG Baiqing, ZHAO Dingying, LI Xinfeng, ZHANG Tianyi, MA Jianhua
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (01): 79-86.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211007408
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    Objective Although cellulose fiber has advantages in high moisture absorption, good wearing comfort and low cost, its applications are limited due to its singular function and poor mechanical properties. The introduction of functional materials to give cellulose good electrical conductivity is significant to expand its applications. This research worked to disperse carboxyl-modified carbon nanotubes (CNT) evenly in the cellulose spinning dope so as to achieve high strength and good electrical conductivity of the modified cellulose fibers.
    Method In the experiment, carboxyl-modified CNT was dispersed well in sodium hydroxide/urea solution, which can dissolve cellulose at a low temperature (-10 ℃). The composite fibers with different CNT contents (mass fractions of 5%, 10%, 15%, and 20%) were prepared by a laboratory wet spinning device. Meanwhile, the microstructure, mechanical properties and electrical properties of the composite fibers were characterized by scanning electron microscope, X-ray diffractometer,infrared spectrometer,mechanical property tests, and multimeter.
    Results When the composite fibers were prepared by wet spinning, CNT maintained directional alignment because of the powerful shearing effect, which effectively improved the performance of the fiber. The surface of the cellulose fiber was smooth, while CNT was uniformly distributed along the radial direction of the composite fiber. It can be seen from the cross-sectional structure that the obtained fibers were dense when a large amount of CNT was encapsulated in the cellulose matrix to form a composite structure(Fig.4). In addition, the XRD and FT-IR spectra (Fig.5, Fig.6) indicated that hydrogen bonding interactions formed linkage between the CNT and cellulose molecular chains. The oriented structure of CNT and the hydrogen bonding interaction with the cellulose molecular chains benefited the composite fiber's mechanical properties. The stress-strain curves of the composite fibers with cellulose/CNT (C/CNT) show that the addition of CNT significantly improved the strength and stiffness of the composite fibers(Fig.7). The breaking strength was 165 MPa when the mass fraction of CNT was 20%, representing an improvement compared to the pure cellulose fiber. In addition, the composite fiber demonstrated electrical resistance of 100,3 kΩ when the mass fraction of CNT was 10%, 20%. Based on cellulose's moisture-absorbing and swelling properties, the composite fiber was further applied to the field of humidity sensing. The composite fiber exhibits excellent humidity sensitivity at room temperature, both air blowing and water immersion of the fiber resulted in detectable resistance changes (Fig.8). The electrothermal performance test revealed that the C/CNT composite fiber with a 20% CNT mass fraction exhibited excellent electrical heating performance. The temperature of the specimen rose to 62.3 ℃ within 15 s when the voltage was increased to 30 V (Fig.9).
    Conclusion A homogeneous and stable spinning solution was prepared by virtue of the fact that carbon nanotubes can be well dissolved in sodium hydroxide/urea. The C/CNT composite fibers were prepared by wet spinning. Compared with the original cellulose fiber, the good dispersion and the enhanced interface provided the composite fiber with superior mechanical properties. Combined with the scalability of the wet spinning process and the versatility of flexible conductive fibers, the related work reported in this paper provides a reference for the development and design of lightweight and flexible sensing fabrics in wearable electronics.

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    Review of new dyeing technologies for reactive dyes and disperse dyes
    WU Wei, JI Bolin, MAO Zhiping
    Journal of Textile Research    2023, 44 (05): 1-12.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230200802
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    Significance Although dyeing is an important technique to give color to textiles, it also depletes resources and creates a lot of pollution. Reactive and disperse dyes are the most widely used dyes for coloring cellulose and polyester fibers, respectively. The output of two dyes accounts for more than 70% of the total output of dyes. However, reactive dyeing has problems with insufficient dye utilization, excessive use of inorganic salts, and high wastewater discharge. Meanwhile, the reduction cleaning step in the disperse dyeing process uses a lot of water and energy. The dispersants and unfixed dyes which are washed off in the reduction cleaning step will cause more difficulty in treating wastewater. Therefore, innovative dyeing techniques of two dyes that can solve these problems were reviewed in this paper.

    Progress In order to reduce the usage amount of inorganic salts in reactive dyeing technology, researchers developed a series of methods to increase the affinity of dyes and fibers, such as cationic modifications and designing macromolecular dyes. In order to improve the utilization of dyes, the wet pickup of the fabric was controlled at a low level to reduce the hydrolysis of reactive dyes. The low wet pickup dyeing technologies are foam dyeing, vacuum-dewatering aided pad-steam dyeing, spray dyeing and ″moisture fixation″ dyeing. Organic solvent (ethanol, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, silicone oil) /water mixed solvent, liquid ammonia, and organic mixed solvent (dimethyl sulfoxide/dimethyl carbonate) were used as dyeing media to reduce the wastewater discharge. In order to solve the problem of low dyeing efficiency and high material consumption of rope dyeing, open-width dyeing technology for the cotton knitted fabric was developed. For disperse dyeing techniques, the first advancement is the development of alkali-resistant disperse dyes, which were created to solve the problem of water and energy usage during the reduction cleaning process. Owing to the same alkaline conditions, the pre-treatment and soap-washing procedures can also be combined with alkaline dyeing technology to increase production effectiveness. Secondly, the polymer dispersants with low molecular weights, no matter the synthesized copolymer anions or modified biomass polymers, were designed to make the dyes maintain nanoscales in water by grinding. Thus, the nano-scale liquid disperse dyes were prepared to improve the dyeing uptake and reduce loose color. With the use of microcapsule shells, the non-reduction clearing effect is achieved through the adhesion on the surface of the fabrics. Finally, non-aqueous media such as supercritical carbon dioxide fluid or organic solvents (decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, liquid paraffin) are used for dyeing to save water consumption.

    Conclusion and Prospect To sum up, the development of the two dyeing technologies focused on reducing the use of chemicals and wastewater emission, improving the utilization rate of dyes, and improving the efficiency of dyeing production. The use of reactive dyes with little or no salt has the problem of poor dyeing levelness or color fastness. For the wet pickup dyeing technology, the main direction of future research is to control the uniformity of dyeing and improve the color fixation rate to the highest level. The directions that need to be explored include the adaptability of open-width dyeing technology for knitted cotton textiles to thin fabric and the enhancement of process stability. Alkaline dyeing, nano liquid disperse dyeing and non-reduction clearing dyeing technologies have basically reached the industrial level, but it is still necessary to improve the categories of dyeable fabrics and improve the dyeing quality. It still needs to keep developing the theoretical framework and supporting equipment for less-water or non-aqueous dyeing technologies, whether they use reactive or disperse dyeing systems. In the future, reactive and disperse dyeing technologies continue to advance in a green and consumption-reduction direction, which will encourage the textile dyeing and printing industry to achieve the ″carbon dioxide emissions peak and carbon neutrality″ target as soon as feasible.

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