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    Progress and trends in application of wearable technology for elderly population
    LIU Huanhuan, MENG Hu, WANG Zhaohui
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (03): 236-243.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230206202
    Abstract1039)   HTML48)    PDF (3527KB)(217)       Save

    Significance In order to provide a more secure and healthy life for the elderly population increasing, innovative wearable products with the advantages of real-time, continuity, and environmental awareness are developed to support older people's health monitoring, well-being, and independence. It promises to be an effective way to alleviate the issue of social stress at old age. However, there are significant restrictions on creating intelligent wearable designs for seniors. For instance, most wearable devices are not truly created with the needs of the elderly in mind. As an important aspect, smart wearables should be made to take care of the unique needs of the elderly population. It is hoped that this study will, to a certain extent, contribute to the innovation and development of age-friendly smart wearable technology devices and provide a theoretical basis for optimizing services for elderly users in the context of an aging population.

    Progress The current situation of age-friendly wearable research in recent years is reviewed. A framework diagram of age-friendly innovative wearable research development is proposed, including the human body layer, product layer, functional layer, and industrial ecology layer. Firstly, the human body layer outlines the changes in the characteristics of the elderly group from 3 perspectives: physiological, psychological, and social attributes. As people age, their bones, bodies, and physical abilities change. They also become more susceptible to negative emotions, and their social roles alter, affecting their mentality and ideas about consuming. Then, concerning the current state of research on intelligent wearable products for the elderly, the vital technical approaches to research age-appropriate innovative wearable products are analyzed from the product level. The seven dimensions are sensors, materials, morphology, structure and interaction methods, functional algorithms, and evaluation methods, of which the most important are sensor type and placement structure and interaction methods. Secondly, the existing research on smart wearable designs suitable for the elderly population is summarized in five functional layers: physiological system, neurological system, motor system, emotional system, and spatial mobility system, and the current design paradigms of age-friendly smart wearable products are summarized based on the current development status of the six industrial ecological layers.

    Conclusion and Prospect From a review of relevant researches, researchers have paid attention to the use of wearable technology to improve the quality of aging development. However, the following areas for improvement still exist in the current research. Few wearable products are genuine "age-friendly" in design, and they do not fundamentally focus on the needs of the elderly. The design of wearable products for the elderly, the integration of electronic components with the human body and the comfort and convenience of wearing them still need further research. At the same time, more wearable products are currently designed to meet the physical health needs of the elderly, with less attention paid to mental health. Therefore, efforts can be made in the following aspects of future research. (1) The functions of wearable devices for the elderly should be from the perspective of the practical needs of the elderly and have a certain degree of relevance. (2) The accuracy and real-time requirements of intelligent wearable devices for information collection are the most important, which is the root cause of the absolute practicality of the product. (3) Older people can only replenish their power supply energy sometimes and anywhere, thus posing new challenges to the endurance of intelligent wearable devices. (4) Older users must be allowed to always wear the device independently while meeting the needs of older people who can easily and quickly understand its use. (5) Privacy and security. How to ensure the privacy and security of the elderly population during use is a crucial focus for future research. (6) Most of the consumers in the elderly group have the concept of frugal consumption, so the design and production of wearable products should be reasonably priced to reduce the burden of use on the elderly consumer group.

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    Design of variable porosity structure and evaluation of permeablity and moisture conductivity of single side weft knitted fabric
    FANG Xueming, DONG Zhijia, CONG Honglian, DING Yuqin
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (05): 51-59.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221202501
    Abstract998)   HTML20)    PDF (4666KB)(59)       Save

    Objective Human body is prone to perspiration, and requirements for thermal and wet comfort of clothing are essential. Permeability and moisture conductivity of fabrics are important influencing factors for heat and humidity management and regulation, and the transmission of fabric to air and implicit sweat is largely affected by its pore structure, including pore size and pore distribution.

    Method Weft knitted lace plated structures made from different yarn counts were prepared which formed a differential capillary effect inside the fabric to improve fabric moisture absorption and transmission. The lace plated structures used for making the fabrics endowed the fabric surface with different concave/convex patterns, aiming for improved wicking effect. 9.3 tex (384 f), 5.6 tex (24 f), 5.6 tex (216 f), 3.3 tex (12 f) polyester and 2.2 tex spandex were selected as raw materials, and the German Terrot S 296-2 single side circular weft knitting machine was used, and 9 types of fabrics were prepared with weft knitting lace plated structure as samples. The effects of fabric pores, raw materials and structure on fabric moisture absorption, moisture transmission and moisture dissipation were evaluated.

    Results The air permeability of the fabrics was found to be positively correlated with the bulk density, surface porosity and average pore diameter. Since most of the air flew through the fabric pores, the size and distribution of fabric pores were adopted to determine the fabric permeability. The bulk density and average pore diameter showed a great influence on the moisture absorption and conductivity of the fabric. The bulk density and average pore diameter were positively correlated with the moisture conductivity as a whole according to specific conditions. With the same raw materials and organizational structure, the size and distribution of pores were found to affect the tightness of the fabric. Higher bulk density and larger the average pore diameter resulted in tighter fabric structure and greater capillary pressure. The surface porosity was positively correlated with the moisture dissipation performance of the fabric. From the perspective of fabric raw materials and structure, the addition of polyurethane fiber increased the gradient of differential capillary effect of the fabric, leading to improvement of the moisture absorption and conductivity of the fabric, but not the moisture dissipation. Fabric structure will affect the moisture conductivity and moisture dissipation performance. The amount of meshes on the fabric surface was directly related to the specific surface area for fabric evaporation, and more meshes would lead to the better moisture dissipation performance.

    Conclusion The results show that the combination of ultrafine polyester and conventional yarn has advantage in moisture absorption and transmission. A fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method is adopted for analysis. Conclusion is drawn, fineness difference of yarns can enrich the gradient of differential capillary effect of fabrics, and achieve a better differential capillary effect, improving the moisture absorption and conductivity of the fabric. The 6#and 7# fabrics in process 4 have certain advantages in the comprehensive properties of permeability and moisture conductivity, which means the plated fabric with high surface porosity and without spandex, composed of loops and floating structure, has the best comprehensive performance of moisture transmission and permeability. The surface porosity with more meshes in the unit circulation tissue, leading up to the better comprehensive moisture absorption and perspiration performance. The nine schemes in this paper are easy to produce and do not need to obtain unidirectional moisture conduction through additives, which provides theoretical and experimental basis for the development of sportswear fabrics with good moisture and heat management ability, environmental protection and sustainable utilization.

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    Research progress in macrofungi and mycelia composites
    YUAN Jiugang, WANG Yingxue, ZHOU Aihui, XU Jin, TANG Ying, FAN Xuerong
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (07): 223-229.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221204702
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    Significance Fungi are neither plants nor animals, which are one of the first life forms on Earth. Fungi are widely distributed in nature, with millions of species. In recent years, with the improvement of people's awareness of environmental protection and the progress of cultivation technology, the application of fungi is also expanded. Fungi are rich in dextran and chitin, and have unique physical and chemical properties. Besides food and medicine, fungi are also widely used in material engineering. Fungal composite materials are a new type of environment-friendly material, which has the characteristics of simple production, complete degradation, durability and wide application scenarios which attracted much research interest. In order to promote the development of sustainable materials and advocate the concept of environmental protection, it is of great significance to review and summarize the current research status of fungi and mycelium composites.

    Progress In order to better promote the development of fungal composites, this paper makes a comprehensive review of the current fungal materials covering the composition, fermentation mode and application status. The main structure, composition, active substances and application value of large fungi such as oyster mushroom, Flammulina mushroom and Ganoderma lucidum were first introduced respectively. In order to make the explanation clearer and more concise, some detailed data about fungi materials were collected. Fermentation methods also have a great influence on the properties of raw fungal materials. Fermentation products could have different thickness and density, requiring different processing routes. Therefore, the advantages and disadvantages of solid fermentation and liquid fermentation were compared and analyzed, and their effects on the processing properties of raw fungal materials were summarized. In addition, the research progress of pure mycelia materials and mycelium composites was comprehensively reviewed. At present, the research and development of fungal materials still show rapid growth. Mycelia composite materials have applications in sound insulation materials, building boards, packaging materials, textile leather and medical dressings, and so on. Fungal materials are rich in chitin, polysaccharide and other active ingredients, which provide unique material characteristics and medical value, and are expected to be further developed in the future to broaden applications. There are, however, problems in fungal materials, such as production pollution, pathogenicity, service life and future development direction, calling for further study. This paper makes an objective analysis and prospect of fungal materials, hoping to introduce the characteristics of fungal materials comprehensively and help researchers broaden their thinking.

    Conclusion and Prospect Fungal materials, with good biocompatibility and no residue after degradation, have great potential to replace fossil-based materials, and their production is not limited by seasons. Particular problems to be solved have been identified as follows. 1) Conditions for fermentation needs to be optimized and suitable fermentation equipment needs to be devised to reduce pollution, as pollution and other problems increase the cost to a large extent. 2) Research on the service life of fungal materials is emperative. 3) The pathogenicity of the selected fungi materials and the possibility of insect colonization in fungi materials to become invasive species needs careful consideration. In a word, there is still a long way to go to use fungal composites on a large scale and the research and development of new fungal materials remain to be attractive.

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    Research progress in microcapsules of phase change materials
    LIU Wenjing, ZHANG Xinrui, ZHAO Xiaoman, HONG Jianhan, WANG Hongbo, HAN Xiao
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (09): 235-243.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230800502
    Abstract806)   HTML32)    PDF (3647KB)(114)       Save

    Significance Influenced by global energy crisis in the 1970s, improvement of energy efficiency and identification of alternative sustainable energy have become an urgent need of the moprden society. Along with this, the research and application of microcapsules of phase change materials (PCMs) have attracted much attention. Microcapsules of PCMs are a type of core-shell structured micro/nano smart materials. The core materials are the phase change materials and the shell materials are organic or inorganic substances. Encapsulation technology for phase change materials can facilitate the maintenance of shape in solid-liquid PCMs and can overcome phase segregation and low thermal conductivity. It effectively overcomes defects such as volume changes, leakage, and supercooling that occur during solid-liquid phase transitions of phase change materials. As a result, it significantly reduces the "phase separation" phenomenon and improves the stability of phase change materials. Owing to their unique advantages in energy storage and temperature regulation, microcapsules of PCMs have been widely applied in various fields such as textiles, medical care, architecture and solar energy. Therefore, the exploration of their preparation techniques and applications presents important scientific significance and research value.

    Progress The clarification of the commonly used core and shell materials, the preparation technologies of microcapsules of PCMs and their applications were comprehensively reviewed. The microcapsules of PCMs consist of a core material, which is the phase change material itself, encapsulated within the microcapsule, a shell material used to protect the core material from leakage. The shell material should possess certain mechanical strength, compactness, and should not react chemically with the core materials. The preparation techniques for PCM microcapsules mainly include physical methods, chemical methods, and physicochemical methods. Physical methods are those in which the encapsulation of PCMs uses only physical processes such as drying and bonding, where the materials forming the shell do not undergo any chemical reactions with the core materials. The obtained microcapsules of PCMs exhibit good stability and controllability, and are suitable for micro-scale systems. For the chemical methods, the shell of microcapsules is synthesized through polymerization or condensation reactions between monomers, oligomers, or pre-polymers at the oil-water interface. Microcapsules of PCMs prepared by chemical methods have excellent performance and small particle sizes and simple operation. Physicochemical methods are a technique that combines physical methods such as heating and cooling with chemical methods such as hydrolysis, crosslinking and polycondensation. Microcapsules of PCMs with different characteristics and functions such as enhanced stability, small particle size and improved controllability can be prepared by adopting different preparation methods. Therefore, PCMs are widely used in textiles, medical care, architecture, solar energy, and other fields.

    Conclusion and Prospect PCM Microcapsules have broad applications. There are still some challenges and problems in practical production. Firstly, the high cost of phase change materials limits their widespread applications due to the expensive production process. Secondly, the material loss is quite high in the preparation of PCM microcapsules. In order to the above problems, the preparation process of microcapsules of PCMs can be improved or replaced by a more economical and efficient production mode. Meanwhile, how to improve the coating rate of microcapsules and increase the response speed are also the current research and development directions of PCM microcapsules. Finally, it is conducive to the promotion of development of the microcapsules of PCMs to green and multi-functional directions by combining the properties of heat storage and temperature regulation with the environmentally friendly multi-functional materials. It can also contribute to the reduction of energy consumption and the enhancement of energy utilization efficiency, which would benefit human beings and the environment.

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    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (03): 247-247.  
    Abstract797)      PDF (40559KB)(61)       Save
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    Journal of Textile Research    2025, 46 (08): 272-272.  
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    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (08): 260-260.  
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    Research progress in absorbable surgical sutures
    YANG Zhichao, LIU Shuqiang, WU Gaihong, JIA Lu, ZHANG Man, LI Fu, LI Huimin
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (01): 230-239.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221102502
    Abstract684)   HTML35)    PDF (3663KB)(260)       Save

    Significance Biomedical textiles are one of the most innovative and technologically advanced research fields in the textile industry today. Surgical sutures are one of the most used medical devices in clinical surgery, and research and development of sutures have been active worldwide. As a new generation of surgical sutures, absorbable surgical sutures are the ″darling″ of the medical community, with extremely important applications in obstetrics and gynecology, surgery, otolaryngology, ophthalmology, dentistry, and so on. Absorbable surgical sutures have become the first choice of surgeons in surgical procedures by virtue of their self-degrading, non-removable and less painful properties, and patients using absorbable surgical sutures are benefitted from having minimal visible scarring on the skin after healing, enhancing patient satisfaction. Although the development of absorbable surgical sutures is now at a relatively mature stage, many high value-added absorbable surgical sutures with excellent functionality are still in the laboratory stage and cannot be industrially produced and marketed for clinical applications. Therefore, this paper focuses on the analysis of various raw materials for preparation of absorbable surgical sutures based on the latest relevant research literature to systematically summarize the current research status of absorbable surgical sutures, promote the innovative development of absorbable surgical sutures and enhance the industrial production of absorbable surgical sutures.

    Progress The development of absorbable sutures and their performance requirements, the history of the development of absorbable surgical sutures from ancient times to the present day are introduced first. The development of the raw materials for their preparation from single to diversified are elaborated. The specific development history is shown, and the mainstream products on the market today are shown. In addition, the properties of absorbable surgical sutures, such as good biocompatibility and good knot strength, as well as the smoothness of the suture surface, are systematically reviewed. The four natural materials used for natural absorbable suture applications, namely catgut, collagen, chitin and alginate, are scutinised and the latest research in this area is summarized and analyzed. Four types of synthetic polymers, i.e., polylactic acid, polyglycolic acid, polycaprolactone and polyvinyl alcohol, are reviewed for making absorbable sutures and the latest research is summarized and analyzed. The advantages and disadvantages of developing absorbable surgical sutures from various materials are systematically studied and compared, and the analysis focused on three important indicators which are the mechanical properties, degradation properties and additional antibacterial properties of absorbable sutures. The overview of antimicrobial immune novel absorbable surgical sutures is also summarized the relevant mechanisms of action is described. Finally, the article concludes with an analysis and summary of the problems of today's absorbable surgical sutures and the trends of future development.

    Conclusion and Prospect The paper analyzes the current status of research on surgical sutures in recent years, starting from the materials used for the preparation of absorbable sutures. The technology for the development of absorbable surgical sutures is becoming more mature, but some problems still need research attention. 1) Relatively little research has been conducted on natural type of absorbable surgical sutures, and the initial catgut have disadvantages such as poor mechanical properties and tendency to trigger tissue reactions, which require further modification of the material. Chitin is commonly used as a functional coating finishing material to impart antimicrobial properties in recent years due to its excellent broad-spectrum antibacterial properties, but little research has been conducted on the preparation of sutures using chitin fibers for development. 2) The development of synthetic polymeric materials has provided more possibilities for the preparation of new absorbable surgical sutures. However, the degradation cycles of various materials are different, resulting in a mismatch between wound healing time and suture degradation time, which affects wound healing. Therefore, the controlled degradation of synthetic polymers is particularly important, so the research of absorbable sutures made of synthetic polymers should be enhanced in terms of the regulation of degradation properties. 3) Wound infection is a persistent problem in surgical procedures, and therefore the development of absorbable surgical sutures with excellent antimicrobial properties is the main theme in suture preparation. Tthe selection of suitable antimicrobial agents, the enhancement of antimicrobial agent loading fastness, and the long-lasting and stable action of antimicrobial agents are issues requiring future research attention.

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    Research progress of biomimetic structural color technology and its application in textile field
    SHI Zhicheng, ZHANG Yu, YU Hong, MA Guiling, CHEN Fengxiang, XU Weilin
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (08): 241-249.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230800402
    Abstract643)   HTML21)    PDF (3829KB)(69)       Save

    Significance The conventional printing and dyeing sector of the textile industry is known to face serious problems with environmental pollution, excessive energy consumption, and other obstacles, and there is hence an urgent need to promote green reforms for sustainable development of the textile industry. The capacity of structural color to provide textile substrate coloring without the use of chemical colorants like dyes and pigments, which is one breakthrough in addressing the current high pollution of dyeing. As a result, the textile printing and dyeing industry may become more competitive, sustainable, and profitable. This paper will look into the production of structural color fibers, their use in the textile industry, and potential future applications for structural colors.

    Progress Structural colors are produced by the physical interaction of periodic structures with light and differ from chemical or pigment coloring due to fundamental differences in their respective mechanisms. The surface morphology and interior microstructure of the materials affect the hue and brightness of structural colors, which offer a lot of potential for creating fiber versatility. Dyeing fabrics using photonic crystals not only provides the fabric a structural color but also adds other features like responsiveness and hydrophobicity. Polystyrene (PS), polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) and silicon dioxide (SiO2) spheres are typical materials for obtaining structural colors. Inert black carbon fibers may be made multicolored using one of the most efficient processes for creating structural colors, ALD. The colors have high washing resistance, which gives the carbon fibers a hydrophobic quality. At present, spraying/scraping, vertical deposition, gravity deposition, dip-coating, layer-by-layer self-assembly, electrophoretic deposition, electrospinning, magnetic sputtering, and atomic layer deposition are available for the preparation of structural color fibers. Based on these methods, researchers have made efforts to explore the applications of structural colors, especially in the fields of textile printing and dyeing, smart wearables, smart textiles and sensors.

    Conclusion and Prospect This review analyzed the formation mechanism of structural coloring, systematically summarized the current main preparation methods of structural coloring fibers, and further explored the multidimensional applications of structural coloring in the textile field. The future development of the textile industry will be centered on eco-friendly green industrial technologies, and it is an inevitable trend to use structural colors to dye textile materials and provide them with a variety of applications. While ushering in new development opportunities, structural color is also facing some great challenges, mainly including the urgent need for new technologies to improve the color richness and mechanical, the development of new structural color materials, and breakthroughs in the scale of the preparation technology to improve the product ecology. With the in-depth research on structural colors and the continuous progress of preparation technology, the application scenarios of structural colors in many fields, such as material science, biomedicine, textiles and more. Structural color is expected to become an indispensable part of life.

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    Preparation and application of durable aqueous organic-inorganic hybrid fluorine-free water-repellant finishing agents
    MA Yiping, FAN Wuhou, HU Xiao, WANG Bin, LI Linhua, LIANG Juan, WU Jinchuan, LIAO Zhengke
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (06): 113-119.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230506001
    Abstract633)   HTML11)    PDF (4135KB)(41)       Save

    Objective Fabrics with water-repellent finishing have been extensively favored by consumers as one of the most widely used functional fabrics, and hydrophobic coatings and their applications prospects attract interests from both the academic and industrial comunities. However, their application is hindered by some major bottlenecks, especially the poor durability. Therefore, a method for preparing hydrophobic coatings with excellent mechanical stability is urgently necessary.

    Method To tackle the poor durability of water-repellent finishing fabrics, this study innovatively introduced low surface energy polysiloxane segments and long carbon chain hexadecyl at the same time. A novel durable water-based hybrid fluorine-free water-repellant finishing agents (NSW) were prepared by amino modification of silica sol emulsion to enhance the interfacial interaction between the organic and inorganic components. This modification corresponded to the long-chain alkyl silane modified sol emulsion and polysiloxane modified waterborne polyurethane emulsion respectively. The specific methods used were described below. A polysiloxane modified polyurethane prepolymer (SiWPU) was synthesized through the polyaddition reaction of polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS), polyethylene glycol (PEG), dimethylol propionic acid (DMPA) and isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI). A method of the long-chain alkyl silane and amino modified sol emulsion (Si-NPs) was provided through the hydrolysis polycondensation reaction of hexadecyl trimethoxysilane (HDTMS), silane coupling agent (KH-550) and tetraethyl silicate (TEOS). Si-NPs were added drop by drop in the emulsification process of Si-WPU, silica nanoparticles were adhered to the polyurethane chain segment taking advantage of the difference in the rate of isocyanate group react with amino and hydroxyl group, and isocyanate group exhibits a higher rate of reaction with amino compared with hydroxyl group.

    Results The chemical composition of Si-NPs and NSW were investigated using Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy. The most stable emulsion was achieved when KH-550 mass fraction was 1.5% (Si-NPs-1.5 and NSW-1.5), and the stability analysis of Si-NPs and NSW-1.5 were demonstrated using particle size tester and Zeta potential analyzer. In addition, the research also focused on the hydrophobic effects of the amount of aminosilane coupling agent in the silica sol. Baking temperature on the property of finished polyester/cotton fabric was also discussed in detail, and the hydrophobic performance and the wash resistance on the surface of finished polyester/cotton fabric were also investigated. It was found that when the mass ratio of KH-550 was 1.5% and the baking temperature remained at 160 ℃, NSW formed a complete water-repellent membrane. Under the conditions of these application environment on the surface of treated fabric with water contact angle (WCA) of 131.8°, the WCA of the treated fabric dropped by only 2.8°after 20 rubbing cycles and exhibited good washability. The surface morphology of the treated polyester/cotton fabric before and after washing was observed in order to study the water wash resistance on the surface of finished polyester/cotton fabric more intuitively, and the results of SEM images showed that micro-nano rough structures existed on the surface of finished polyester/cotton fabric. Additionally, the repellent effect of the treated fabric on different liquids was also studied to demonstrate the above viewpoint.

    Conclusion It is confirmed through the research that when the mass ratio of KH-550 is 1.5% and the baking temperature remains at 160 ℃, the surface of the finished fabric exhibits the best water resistance performance. In view of the poor durability of finishing agents, a method for preparing fully aqueous and organic-inorganic hybrid fluorine-free water-repellant finishing agents was identified, which is to combine the long-chain alkyl silane modified sol emulsion and polysiloxane modified waterborne polyurethane emulsion for the stable preparation of waterproofing agents.

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    Parametric and regeneration design of Badayun patterns
    ZHANG Suya, CUI Rongrong, WANG Zhicheng, JIANG Wenqin, XU Pinghua
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (06): 165-172.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230702601
    Abstract629)   HTML17)    PDF (12805KB)(112)       Save

    Objective Traditional patterns possess rich cultural connotations and unique aesthetic characteristics. This study aims to reinterpret and recreate the morphological composition of traditional patterns, injecting them with a sense of contemporaneity and innovation. By doing so, it seeks to infuse contemporary designs with distinctive artistic charm and provide consumers with diverse choices and cultural experiences. Currently, researchers primarily focus on the cultural connotations and formal composition of patterns, resorting to manual drawing for their reinterpretation, while lacking applications for rapid digital generation. To enhance the efficiency of innovative design for traditional patterns, a parametric deconstruction and regeneration method is proposed, enabling the rapid generation of pattern forms and color variations.

    Method This study focused on the Badayun patterns, analyzing its artistic value and morphological structure. The patterns were divided into three categories, i.e., filling, decoration, and skeleton, which were further deconstructed into basic graphical elements. By quantifying the parameters of each element, a morphological fitting formula was constructed. Modeling was then carried out using Rhino software and its Grasshopper plugin to establish a foundational pattern model. The model included the establishment of pattern deconstruction, primitive library, parameter library, rule library, and parametric expression and recombination, which eventually formed patterns with different shapes and parameters. Furthermore, color extraction and clustering algorithms were employed to extract and cluster colors from different scenarios, resulting in diverse color schemes. Additionally, automatic coloring was applied to the interior regions of the generated patterns.

    Results By combining traditional patterns and parametric modeling techniques, this study presented a parameterized deconstruction and regeneration method based on the Badayun pattern. The method successfully achieved the parameterized regeneration of traditional patterns with different forms and color styles. Using the floral element of the Badayun patterns as an example, the element was deconstructed parametrically to generate locally varying graphical effects under different parameters. Furthermore, an improved binary K-means adaptive clustering algorithm was employed to extract color factors from samples, yielding color analysis charts of typical Badayun patterns from different periods. It included the main colors of the Badayun patterns in the Song, Ming, and Qing dynasties, the RGB values of the corresponding main colors in different periods, and the color proportions of different colors in the overall pattern. Based on the generated line drawings of patterns in different forms, an automatic transfer coloring algorithm is utilized to derive various coloring effects for the same pattern. The well-designed Badayun patterns could be applied in multiple fields and transformed into product textures through a parametric platform, facilitating aesthetic dissemination and transforming functional utility in various products. It formed a new way of transforming the qualitative expression of pattern regeneration design into quantitative expression, which could quickly generate a large number of traditional pattern design schemes and effectively improve the design efficiency.

    Conclusion This paper proposes a parametric model-based design method for Badayun patterns, which can generate different styles of patterns according to different parameter settings. The method uses computer technology to achieve an integrated design of line drawing, structure, and color assignment, which can quickly and flexibly adjust and control the form and style of the patterns, compared to the traditional design method. The method improves the design efficiency and creativity. Through case analyses, the paper demonstrates the application value of the method in garment pattern regeneration design and graphic design in the digital era. The parametric model-based design method for decorated lattice patterns provides an effective technical means for the regeneration and innovation of traditional patterns, and a new entry point for graphic design in the digital era.

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    Progress of research and application in air-jet vortex spinning machine and key technologies
    SHAO Yinghai, ZHAO Yeping, HAN Xianguo, CAO Jipeng, ZHANG Mingguang, CHEN Wen
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (03): 209-218.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220906602
    Abstract624)   HTML21)    PDF (9026KB)(211)       Save

    Significance Air-jet vortex spinning machine (AVSM) is an spinning equipment with high spinning speed and efficiency in achieving high quality of multi-variety yarns, which is developed on the basis of jet spinning technology. AVSM is employed by more textile enterprises and has a profound scope for spinning of medium and long lengths staple cotton and blended yarns. But the technology of AVSM has its disadvantages and limitations of significant fiber loss, 100% short fiber loss for cotton yarn spinning. The limitation of the spinning range can be expected to overcome by the market leading enterprises of AVSM. Thus, in order to understand the current application, research development and present problems in AVSM by domestic and foreign spinning enterprises, a comprehensive analysis of the results of research and patent design achieved in AVSM is presented.

    Progress Modern air-jet vortex spinning (AVS) technology is basically a new spinning technology developed on the base of the Murata AVSM. The key technologies and principle related to the AVS process include cotton guiding and feeding, sliver drafting, conveying, AVS device, yarn winding, and yarn packaging. The AVS device is the core device of AVSM, and the earliest version was manufactured by Murata. Later Gernot from Rieter proposed another AVS device, which is with different designs for the spindle, needle guider, and nozzle block. The research on in two types of AVS device have been made in the aspects of structure optimization, CFD simulation of three-dimensional air flow field inside of AVS device. Some improved structures of AVS device were proposed for reducing rate of short fiber falling, and for increasing the spinning rate. Huayan in Shaanxi designed two-split structure of AVS device controlled by pneumatic cylinder for opening and closing of the upper and the lower branches. The double AVS devices composed of the upper and lower branches was design to prevent fibers to be taken away from the airflow for improving the spinning rate. There are a few designs of the needle block with special features, i.e., the movable needle with adjustable axial position, or adjustable angle between guide hole and needle, the more guide holes and heating function. In nozzle block, some improved designs were made such as four adjacent spiral vortex grooves on chamber wall, three-stage structure, the surrounding spiral pipe on the outer surface for further improving the spinning effect.

    Conclusion and Prospect For understanding the main application and research status of AVS technology, the relevant patents and research papers are reviewed. The research shows that the main research content of AVSM and its key technology are developed by some Chinese spinning enterprises and textile research institutes such as Huayan in Shanxi, Jiangyin Huafang New Science and Technology Ltd. Co. and so on with many related patents mainly focusing on the improved structural design of the AVS device and its related components. Overseas large-scale production of AVSM is mainly made from Murata and Rieter. Global research is also focused on the content of AVS of Murata, and more researches carry out simulation analysis on AVS device and on the spinning performance. In comparison with the early development of AVSM from Murata and Rieter, the relevant achievements of application and research progress of AVS technology are not noticeable. At present, the nozzle chamber of AVSM is often designed as the conical frustum model, in which the working principles of setting multiple air-jet vents in tangential direction of the chamber surface for producing the swirling air flow to make fiber false twisting has not changed. Looking forward to the future, CFD analysis and experimental research of AVS device will be needed aiming at the design of chamber structures, the production of higher strength yarn and the optimization of twisted vortex for improving the performance of AVS, meeting the production of multifunctional yarns and manufacturing yarns from short cotton fiber. In addition, with the progress of science and technology, more and more automation and intelligence control systems will be developed and applied in the AVSM such as electronic yarn cleaner, detection and control of foreign fibers, short fibers diagnosis, visualization, and others.

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    Synergistic flame retardant finishing of polyester/cotton blended fabric with phytic acid/chitosan
    HU Ziqiang, LUO Xiaolei, WEI Lulin, LIU Lin
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (04): 126-135.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230403301
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    Objective Polyester/cotton fabric (PC) combines the comfort, air permeability of cotton and stability, high mechanical of polyester, and it is widely used in aerospace, home decoration and other fields. However, the PC produces heat and smoke when burning, accompanied by a serious melting phenomenon, which seriously endangers people's life and health and property safety. The combustion will produce a "wick effect", making the combustion process more intense. Therefore, it is essential to improve the flame retardant performance of PC.

    Method To improve the flame retardant property of PC, by using phytic acid (PA) from biology to provide a phosphorus source and chitosan (CS) to provide nitrogen source and carbon source, the expansion flame retardant system was constructed on the surface of PC by the impregnation-baking process to prepare flame retardant polyester/cotton fabric (PC-PA/CS) which improved the flame retardant property of PC.

    Results The optimal preparation process of PC-PA/CS was determined by the limiting oxygen index (LOI) value: baking temperature was 160 ℃, baking time was 120 s, CS concentration was 30 g/L, and PA concentration was 400 g/L. The LOI value of flame retardant polyester cotton fabric reached to 28.7%. Infrared spectrum analysis showed that the flame retardant finishing liquid composed of PA and CS was successfully deposited on the surface of polyester/cotton fabric. From the scanning electron microscopy images, the fibers in PC showed obvious dents after pretreatment. After flame retardant treatment, the dents on the fiber of PC-PA/CS surface disappeared and the surface became smooth, with a uniform coating on the surface. Compared with PC, after flame-retardant finishing, the decomposition temperature of cotton with PC-PA/CS was advanced from 377 ℃ to 256 ℃, the maximum decomposition rate of fabric was reduced, and stable char layer can be formed. And the char residual rate is increased to more than 25% at 800 ℃ in N2. Flame retardant finishing has succeeded in improving the thermal stability of polyester and cotton fabric. The results of cone calorimetry test showed that the maximum heat release rate (PHRR) and total heat release (THR) of PC were 145.86 kW/m2 and 2.75 MJ/m2, respectively. The PHRR and THR of PC-PA/CS were 96.96 kW/m2 and 2.06 MJ/m2, respectively, which decreased by 33.53% and 25.10%, respectively, showing that the coating had good thermal inhibition ability. The combustion growth rate index (FGR) was decreased from 6.34 kW/(m2·s) to 3.88 kW/(m2·s), and the fire safety of the fabric was increased. The breaking strength of PC was 50.62 N, while that of PC-PA/CS decreased to 48.86 N which remained above 95% of original fabric. The introduction of CS reduced the influence of thermal and acidic environment on the mechanical properties of fabrics. The introduction of flame retardant coating formed a stable expanded carbon layer on the surface during the combustion process of the fabric, which improved the flame retardant performance of the fabric and has a condensed phase flame retardant mechanism.

    Conclusion PC-PA/CS was successfully prepared by dipping-baking method, using PA and CS of biomass to form an expansion flame retardant system together with PC. The LOI value of PC-PA/CS increased significantly from 17.8% to 28.7%, and the droplet phenomenon disappeared, showing excellent flame retardant property. The introduction of flame retardant coating improved the thermal stability and char residual rate of the fabric. Flame retardant finishing effectively reduced the heat release and improved the fire safety of PC. When the fabric was burned, it can form a stable expanded char layer, increased the degree of graphitization of the char layer, and improved the flame retardant performance of PC, which had the flame retardant mechanism of condensed phase.

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    Analysis of silks from silkworms reared with artificial diet and mulberry leaves
    HUANG Qing, SU Zhenyue, ZHOU Yifan, LIU Qingsong, LI Yi, ZHAO Ping, WANG Xin
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (05): 1-9.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221108601
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    Objective In order to understand the quality differences between silk fibers produced by artificial diet feeding and mulberry leave feeding, and to investigate the possibility of substituting artificial diet for mulberry leaves in sericulture, this research systematically analyzed the differences in morphology, composition, chemical structure, and mechanical properties between artificial diet-fed silkworm silk and mulberry leaves-fed silkworm silk.

    Method In this study, two groups of silkworms were fed separately with artificial diet and mulberry leaves.The silk cocoons and fibers were carefully examined for their morphological characteristics using scanning electron microscopy. In order to evaluate the composition of the silk, elemental analysis, amino acid content analysis, and sodium dodecyl sulfate polyacrylamide gel electrophoresis testing were conducted to compare the two feeding methods.Additionally, infrared absorption spectroscopy, two-dimensional wide-angle X-ray scattering (2D-WAXS), and silk tensile testing were employed to elucidate the differences in chemical structure and mechanical properties between artificial diet-fed and mulberry leaves-fed silkworm silk.

    Results The silk with artificial diet feeding exhibited no significant differences in fiber appearance compared to the silk with mulberry leave feeding. Protein composition analysis showed that there was no difference in the type and content of silk fibroin heavy chain protein, silk fibroin light chain protein and sericin protein between the two groups of silk samples. However, notable differences were observed in terms of element content, proline content, secondary structure, and crystallinity. The element analysis revealed that, except for Na and Si, the artificial diet silk had significantly lower content of other elements compared to the mulberry leaves silk. Furthermore, artificial diet silk exhibited lower levels of trace elements such as Al, Cr, and B, while higher levels of Fe, Mn, Zn, and Cu were detected compared to the mulberry leaves silk. Analysis of amino acid content indicated a distinct variation of proline content between the two silk types, with significantly higher proline content in the artificial diet silk. The analysis of secondary structure and crystallinity demonstrated higher β-turn content and lower random coil content in the artificial diet silk compared to the mulberry leaves silk. 2D-WAXS analysis revealed lower crystallinity (60.1%) in the artificial diet silk compared to the mulberry leaves silk (65.2%). Tensile testing showed that the artificial diet silk exhibited a higher average breaking strain (19.8±8.2)%, while the mulberry leaves silk demonstrated higher breaking strength (361.6±97.2)MPa, although the difference was not statistically significant.

    Conclusion The study findings indicated that the observed disparities in morphology, composition, chemical structure, and mechanical properties between artificial diet-fed and mulberry leaves-fed silk were not significant, suggesting the potential of artificial diet as a substitute for mulberry leaves feeding to obtain high-quality silk fibers. The two feeding methods have no significant impact on the quality of silk produced. In addition, artificial diet offered advantages such as the potential for adding beneficial substances and avoiding harmful substances, further highlighting its suitability as a replacement for mulberry leaves in silkworm feeding. Future research may focus on incorporating beneficial substances such as metal ions or proline into artificial diets, by optimizing the formula of artificial diets and adding appropriate amounts of beneficial elements for compensation, in order to selectively improve the mechanical properties of silk and enhance the wider value of artificial diet feeding silk in sericulture. Overall, this comprehensive analysis contributes valuable insights and directions for improving artificial diet in sericulture and enhancing the quality of silk and lays a solid foundation for further promoting the strategic goal of industrialized sericulture of whole age feeding in the future.

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    Structural control and spinning technology of highly wrapped core-spun yarn with thin sheath
    LI Wenya, ZHOU Jian, LIAO Tanqian, DONG Zhenzhen
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (06): 46-52.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230701401
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    Objective The wrapped effect has always been the core indicator in the market to judge the quality of the core spun yarns. In the market, the number of the wrapped fiber is always more than 80% to achieve the core filament being wrapped. The difficulty in achieving good wrapping effect lies in controlling the center position of the core wire. It is of great theoretical significance and application value to achieve high wrapping effect of yarn based on low outer fiber ratio and stable control of yarn structure, thereby improving the multi-component advantage of core yarn.

    Method To achieve high yarn wrapping effect and structural stability, this research proposed a solution by installing a filament control device to adjust the spinning process and parameters. Low-elastic polyester filament with a linear density of 7.78 tex as the core yarn, cotton roving with different quantities of as wrapping fibers were used to spin cotton/polyester core-spun yarn by ring spinning. The critical wrapping ratio of core-spun yarn was explored. The relationship between the structure of core-spun yarn and the wrapping rate was analyzed. The concept of yarn section eccentricity was introduced, and the structure stability of yarn was characterized by combining yarn coverage rate and longitudinal appearance morphology.

    Results The relative position of the polyester filament and cotton roving was controlled by the installed a filament positioning device. The component ratios of polyester filament and cotton roving in 8 sets of core-spun yarns are 75/25, 70/30, 65/35, 60/40, 55/45, 53/47, 52/48, 50/50; The density of core-spun yarn is 31.8, 25.5, 21.6, 19, 17.4, 16.5, 16, and 15.7 tex, respectively. 50 images were collected for each group of yarn with 100 times magnification, and the obtained image was binary-processed by Ostu algorithm to calculate the yarn coating rate. Compared with other binary processing methods, the Ostu algorithm had the smallest error probability and higher accuracy. When the component ratio of cotton roving was 53%, the coverage rate of core-spun yarns remained at 87.5%. When the component ratio of cotton roving was less than 53%, the coverage rate of core-spun yarns was lower than 85% and a large area of core polyester was exposed. It is concluded that critical coverage ratio of core-spun yarn was when the component ratios of polyester filament and cotton roving was 53/47. The average variation range of eccentricity of core yarn section under different polyester-cotton ratios was 8.8%~11.2%. The characterization of section eccentricity, yarn coverage, and longitudinal appearance morphology verified the effectiveness of the spinning process adopted in this laboratory.

    Conclusion The experiment provides data support and characterization for the discussion of the critical coverage rate during spinning cotton/polyester core-spun yarn by ring spinning. The computer image processing method for calculating the core-spun yarn coverage rate was obtained, which is convenient to operate and accurate. In addition, the factors affecting the stability of core yarn structure are analyzed from the perspective of theory and spinning practice, and the stable control of core-sheath structure is achieved by adjusting the spinning process.

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    Preparation of PET-based carbon dots by pyrolysis and its application in PET flame retardancy
    BING Linhan, WANG Rui, WU Yuhang, LIU Botong, HUANG Hanjiang, WEI Jianfei
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (10): 1-8.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230708301
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    Objective In order to improve the flame retardant properties of polyethylene terephthalate (PET), PET-based carbon dots (PET-CDs) were prepared by pyrolysis using PET waste as a precursor, and PET com-plexes (PET-CDs-PET) were prepared by mixing them with PET using physical blending method. The transformation from PET waste to flame-retardant PET was achieved. PET oligomers were prepared by microwave method, and then PET-CDs were prepared by pyrolysis reaction of PET oligomers with ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid. PET-CDs of different qualities were crushed in a pulveriser together with PET slices to obtain four kinds of PET-CDs-PETs with different contents of PET-CDs.

    Method Transmission electron microscopy, X-ray photoelectron spectroscopy, Fourier infrared spectroscopy were used to analyse the structure of PET-CDs, and the optical properties of PET-CDs were investigated with the help of fluorescence spectrometer and UV analyser. The effects of different additive amounts of PET-CDs on the flame retardancy of PET were investigated by the limiting oxygen index (LOI), vertical combustion (UL-94), and cone calorimetry. The effect of PET-CDs on the flame retardancy of PET with different additions was also investigated by using a material. The mechanical properties of PET-CDs-PET were investigated by a material strength tester.

    Results As far as the structure is concerned, the prepared PET-CDs are quasi-spherical, with uniform particle distribution and no agglomeration. The particle size ranged from 0.44 nm to 4.39 nm, the average particle size was 1.85 nm, the lattice spacing was 0.25 nm, and the surface contained hydroxyl, carboxyl, and amine functional groups. In terms of optical properties, the prepared PET-CDs ethanol solutions showed dark brown colour under indoor natural light and blue fluorescence in UV analyser when irradiated by UV lamp with wavelength of 365 nm. The fluorescence of PET-CDs ethanol solutions was typical excitation wavelength-dependent, with the optimal excitation wavelengths and emission wavelengths of 320 nm and 420 nm, respectively. The absolute fluorescence quantum yield reached 25.73% under the light excitation at 320 nm, and the UV-visible absorption spectrum had an obvious absorption peak at 293 nm. In terms of flame retardant properties, the thermal stability of PET-CDs met the requirements of blending with PET, and the residual carbon of PET was increased by adding PET-CDs into PET. The LOI values of PET-CDs was increased and then decreased after the addition of PET-CDs with different contents, but all of them were higher than that of pure PET. The UL-94 fire ratings were all V-2 with different additions of PET-CDs. The LOI value of PET-CDs 1%-PET was 30%, and there was no significant decrease in the mechanical properties of PET at this additive amount, so the optimal additive amount of PET-CDs was 1%. The total heat release of PET-CDs 1%-PET was decreased by 1.5%, the total smoke release by 8.1%, the peak value of CO by 42%, the peak value of CO2 by 35.9%.

    Conclusion The preparation of CDs from PET waste as raw material can provide a new method for the reuse of waste, and the PET waste can be used in the flame retardant modification of PET materials after the preparation of CDs, forming a green and benign cycle. At the same time, the application of CDs in the flame retardant field not only broadens the scope of its application, but also provides a new flame retardant in this field.

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    Advances in textile-based wearable flexible strain sensors
    ZHANG Man, QUAN Ying, FENG Yu, LI Fu, ZHANG Aiqin, LIU Shuqiang
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (12): 225-233.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20231104702
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    Significance Wearable flexible strain sensors can facilitate all-round monitoring of human activities and thus have broad application prospects in fields such as healthcare, public health and human-computer interaction. Compared with traditional embedded rigid strain sensors, textile structures become an ideal structural platform for flexible strain sensors with the advantages of flexibility, comfort and hyperbolic effect. However, since the raw materials used in traditional textiles generally have electrical insulating properties, they should be modified into electrically sensitive materials before being used to construct flexible strain sensors. In addition, the textile structure design is targeted on the basis of the strain sensing mechanism. Although there are some basic researches on the application of textile technology in the field of smart wearables, it is still in its infancy in the actual market application. In order to further promote the development and application of smart wearable textiles and make full use of the textile structural advantages, this paper summarizes the design concepts and preparation methods of flexible textile-based strain sensors based on the current research progress. The paper is organized on progress made in fibers, yarns and fabrics.

    Progress For fiber-based strain sensors, integrating fibers with electrically sensitive materials to achieve conductive fiber preparation is the primary issue which needs to be addressed in the preparation of strain sensors. Currently, there are three mainstream technologies to prepare fiber materials with good electrical conductivity which are fiber spinning, fiber surface coating and carbonization modification of fibers. Compared to fiber-based strain sensors, yarn-based sensors pay more attention to the macroscopic structural design to assemble multiple functional materials, achieving multi-dimensional upgrading of sensing performance. Yarn spinning technology, on the other hand, is an effective way to integrate functional fibers into yarns to achieve a good combination of structure and function. Spiral yarn and core-spun yarn are two commonly used yarn structures in strain sensors. Different fabric structures have their own advantages and disadvantages for creating strain sensors. Knitted fabrics have high stretchability, which can meet the size change ability required for strain sensors, but the structural stability is relatively poor. In comparison, woven fabrics have stable structure but the deformation is limited. The most common method for preparing strain sensors with braided structure is to use elastic yarns as core and conductive yarns as the braided sheath. Nonwoven structures provide an ideal template for the deposition of conductive materials, which can effectively construct three-dimensional interconnected conductive paths. The disadvantage however is that the strength is low and thus nonwoven fabrics are rarely used as a separate substrate for strain sensor. Finally, embedding flexible conductive yarn into textiles through the sewing process is also one way to prepare textile-based strain sensors. In principle, it can be embedded anywhere in clothing, providing preparation flexibility and potentially reducing costs.

    Conclusion and Prospect Although significant progress has been made in the research of textile-based strain sensors, there are still some key issues that need to be further investigated in terms of structural design, mechanism analysis, and performance optimization before academic research can be used for practical applications. 1) In order to meet the requirements of high sensitivity and large strain range of sensors, the design concept is that any slight deformation will cause changes in the conductive network inside the material, and the conductive network is always connected under different strain levels. At the same time, the interfacial properties of the conductive filler and the substrate need to be improved to ensure the repeatability and stability of the sensor. 2)The inherent insulation, viscoelasticity, and complexity of the multi-scale structure make the mechanism study of textile-based strain sensors very complex. Establishing a theoretical relationship between the multi-scale structure and the sensing performance is a necessary foundation for optimization design and performance improvement of textile-based strain sensors. 3) The performance improvement of materials in terms of washability, comfort, and adaptability with the human body is an important research direction. It is also a key issue to fully leverage the structural and performance advantages of textile materials, and consequently promoting the practical application of textile sensors in the field of wearable electronics.

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    Research progress in application of silk fibroin-based biomaterials for bone repair
    LI Meng, DAI Mengnan, YU Yangxiao, WANG Jiannan
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (10): 224-231.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20231006502
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    Significance The application of bone tissue engineering (BTE) techniques to repair bone injuries and defects arising due to trauma, infection, tumors, or pathological fractures remains a major challenge. Silk fibroin (SF) is a natural biomaterial with excellent biocompatibility and controllable biodegradability, and can be a mineralization template to induce the growth of hydroxyapatite (HAp). Recently, SF has received more attention for the application in bone regeneration. Although the development of SF-based bone repair materials has achieved surprising results, many SF-based bone scaffolds with excellent functionality are still in the laboratory stage. Therefore, in the present article, the latest research progress of SF-based materials in bone repair was reviewed, in particular, the strategies and methods to improve the mechanical properties and osteogenic performance were highlighted, in order to promote the innovative development of SF-based bone regeneration scaffolds.

    Progress SF is usually prepared into films and hydrogels due to the good film forming and sol-gel transformation properties, and it can also be constructed into porous scaffolds by biomimetic design. Generally, SF films are prepared by casting or electrospinning, then the post-treatments make films insoluble. The softness and flexibility of SF films induced by physical treatment using alcohol reagents are poor, but can be significantly improved by chemical crosslinking or increasing the molecular weight of SF. In addition, combination with sericin can not only improve the softness of the films, but also promote the deposition of HAp. SF hydrogels are typically formed by self-assembly using physical methods like concentration, shearing, ultrasound and electric fields, and also can be prepared by chemical crosslinking. The SF hydrogel yielded by the horseradish peroxidase (HRP)/H2O2 reaction system shows impressive viscoelasticity and biocompatibility. Nevertheless, the stability of SF hydrogel is poor in vivo, its mechanical properties and stability can be further improved through double-crosslinking. Freeze-drying, salting-out and 3D printing are commonly used to prepare SF porous scaffolds. Regarding the freeze-drying method, the pore characteristics and mechanical properties of the SF scaffolds can be adjusted through freezing temperature and solution concentration. It is also possible to design a temperature gradient to induce the directivity of the pores. However, it cannot accurately pre-design the internal structure. Salting-outing method can stably control the pore structure, but it is easy to produce more salt residues if the pores connect incompletely. 3D printing allows for pre-designing the internal structure of the scaffolds, but the technology still faces great challenges due to the fluidity of the SF ink. Throughout decades of researches, the mechanical properties of SF materials have been far from satisfactory for the application in BTE. Inspired by the composition and structure of natural bone, inorganic materials such as HAp have usually been considered to modify SF to improve the mechanical properties of the SF scaffolds. Moreover, growth factors and cells are usually incorporated into the SF/HAp composite scaffolds to further enhance osteogenic capacity.

    Conclusion and Prospect SF is a natural biomaterial with remarkable biomedical properties. No matter which form of SF material is used for bone defect repair, it shows promising application prospects. However, current researches indicate that the mechanical properties of pure SF-based materials are insufficient, and still have a significant gap compared to natural bone. These deficiencies and osteogenic potential of SF scaffolds can be significantly improved by changing preparation strategies or incorporating inorganic reinforcement materials such as HAp. Furthermore, adding growth factors or cells to SF/HAp composite materials can achieve the repair of critical-size bone defects. In the future research of SF-based bone repair scaffolds, studies focusing on mechanical conduction, neovascularization and matched material degradation need to be considered. Maintaining the activity of growth factors or cells during bone repair is also an urgent problem. These are pivotal for the precise design of SF scaffolds or composite scaffolds that align with guiding bone regeneration and functional recovery. With the development of regenerative medicine and tissue engineering, SF materials are promising candidates to create osteogenic niches with multiple cues and develop different medical devices used in clinical bone regeneration.

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    Research progress on smart footwear for monitoring temperature in diabetic foot
    SHI Chu, LI Jun, WANG Yunyi
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (07): 240-247.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230103002
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    Significance The diabetic foot is a serious chronic complications in diabetic patients and is characterized by high rates of disability, death, and recurrence. 50% of diabetic foot ulcers and amputations can be avoided through early screening, but only 15.7% of diabetic patients are screened regularly. Studies have shown that monitoring the skin temperature of diabetic patients' feet helps to detect foot abnormalities, and reduce the risk of primary and secondary diabetic foot. Currently, smart footwear for monitoring foot temperature in the diabetic foot has developed, such as Siren Diabetic Socks and SmartSox Socks. However, the willingness of patients for wearing diabetic footwear is low, and medical professionals suggest that there is still a lack of strong evidence for the diagnostic value of such products. Therefore, a comprehensive and scientific analysis of smart footwear for monitoring temperature in the diabetic foot can help improve the systematic understanding of these products among diabetic patients and related researchers, increase the popularity and usage rate, and provide theoretical references for future research.

    Progress In order to systematically and objectively understand the mechanism and product efficacy of smart footwear for monitoring foot temperature, the differences in plantar temperature characteristics between different types of diabetic patients and healthy people were compared. Thermograms from the healthy people showed a symmetrical butterfly pattern with the medial arches showing the highest temperatures, while in diabetics, due to inflammation caused by neuropathy, abnormal thermoregulation, and local ischemia caused by peripheral arterial disease, the foot temperature is often higher than that of healthy feet, and the distribution is irregular, with higher temperatures in areas at high risk of ulceration. In order to fully extract the predictive value of temperature, there mainly exist three types of index extraction methods, i.e., thermal symmetry of foot, in dependent limb regional temperature difference, and temperature stress analysis. A 2.2 ℃ difference between contralateral spots is the most widely used as the predictive threshold of diabetic foot disease, and the predictive sensitivity and specificity are often improved by continuous duration-assisted analysis. Recently, smart footwear targeting foot temperature monitoring has been developed. The Optical-Fiber-Based Smart Sock has the advantages of multi-index monitoring, comfortable and reusable. However, there are still differences in the number of temperature sensors and monitoring areas between products. The main monitoring areas are heel, medial midfoot, first metatarsal head, fifth metatarsal head, and first toe.

    Conclusion and Prospect The effectiveness of using temperature monitoring to prevent diabetic foot has been unanimously recognized by researchers. It is clinically meaningful to use the temperature difference of 2.2 ℃ between contralateral spots as the prediction threshold for diabetic foot. Nontheless, the individual baseline temperature differences should be taken into consideration, assisted with other indicators such as the duration of temperature difference and pressure, so as to improve the predictive sensitivity and specificity of smart footwear. In the future, the risk level can be identified based on the foot temperature values and distribution patterns of diabetic patients under different activity intensities based on big data, and other indicators such as pressure, shear stress, toe range of motion, humidity, pH, and sweat-based glucose level can be studied in depth to predict the potential value of diabetic foot risk, explore the relationship between the indicators, and dissect the diabetic foot development risk mechanism together with skin temperature. In addition, machine learning can be used to optimize early warning algorithms, automatically calculating and updating the typical foot temperature pattern individualized. Finally, the overall system of shoes and socks needs to be comprehensively explored regarding the care and prevention of diabetic foot.

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    Research progress in deep learning technology for fabric defect detection
    LIU Yanping, GUO Peiyao, WU Ying
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (12): 234-242.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20240102302
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    Significance Automatic fabric defect detection is one of the key aspects of digital quality control in the textile industry. At present, the domestic fabric defect detection is mostly based on manual detection, but the traditional manual detection success rate of only 60%-75%, indicating that the method can't meet the demand for high-quality products. To overcome the drawbacks of manual defect detection, researchers have proposed a variety of learning-based defect detection algorithms. Compared with the manual detection, machine learning methods demonstrate a high detection rate, good stability and other characteristics. Bacause of the superiority of deep learning technology in defect detection, this technology is also used for fabric defect detection. In order to improve the efficiency of the application of deep learning technology in defect detection and to achieve digital quality control in the textile industry, the current status of research on deep learning technology in defect detection is discussed.

    Progress Although traditional algorithms have achieved imroved results in some specific applications, there are still limitations when dealing with complex fabric textures. With the upgrading of computer hardware, the technology is superior in the fields of target detection and image classification, and is utilized in textile quality inspection. Since the introduction of deep learning, great breakthroughs have been made in target detection, which can be categorized into one-phase detection model and two-phase detection model in textile defect detection, both achieving better results in detection speed and detection accuracy. Due to the excellent feature extraction capability of neural networks, convolutional neural network (CNN) based classification networks are widely used for surface defect detection and classification, which can automatically learn different types of fabric defects and accurately categorize them into different classes. Various deep learning methods are superior to manual detection. Due to the difficulty in obtaining fabric datasets, research based on unsupervised learning and semi-supervised learning is gaining popularity, which trains on unlabeled data and a small amount of labeled data and reduces the dependence on labeled data. It can effectively deal with unlabeled datasets or situations where labeled data is scarce or unavailable, and it greatly reduces the working time compared to supervised learning where training is performed on labeled datasets.

    Conclusion and Prospect This paper reviews the application of deep learning techniques to fabric defect detection. First, publicly available defect datasets are organized and analyzed. Secondly, the principles, advantages and disadvantages, and the scope of application of deep learning techniques for defect detection are summarized from three perspectives, i.e. supervised learning, semi-supervised learning and unsupervised learning. In addition, the commonly used speed and accuracy evaluation metrics in defect detection are sorted out. Finally, the experimental results of different deep learning networks in the detection task are objectively compared and analyzed, and the future development direction of fabric defect detection is envisioned. Supervised learning-based defect detection requires a large number of datasets, and the available public data resources are relatively scarce. Relying solely on manual labeling of fabric defects is not only time-consuming but also inefficient, therefore, automatic labeling of fabric defects and detection methods that do not require data labeling have become an important direction for future research. Currently, defect samples face many challenges in terms of data scarcity, labeling difficulty, and uneven data distribution, so unsupervised learning, weakly-supervised learning, zero-sample learning, and small-sample learning are receiving more and more attention in defect generation and detection. On the other hand, solving the data problem and developing defects with fabric texture characteristics is also one of the focuses of future research. Currently, most network structures are still designed manually. However, with the development of automatic machine learning techniques, more and more machines will be able to search and generate network architectures automatically, gradually replacing the traditional manual design.

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    Composite technology and properties of fabrics for automotive seat
    HE Fang, GUO Yan, HAN Chaoxu, LIU Mingshen, YANG Ruirui
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (05): 79-84.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20220708001
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    Objective The functional fabrics are one of the important research directions of automotive seat fabrics in recent years. The automotive seat fabrics were made of several materials with different properties to obtain composite functions. In this research, 33.3 tex flame-retardant polyester yarn and 33.3 tex ordinary polyester low-elastic yarn were used to produce the automotive seat fabric, using small jacquard stitching double structure, to achieve good decoration effect, and lame resistance. The warp-knitted spacer fabric (WKSP) offers satisfactory air permeability, breaking and tearing strength, and the elastic recovery, so it is a good material to replace sponge. The knitted fabrics are known to have excellent extension to achieve smooth fabric conformation.

    Method In this work, a simple jacquard fabric was selected as surface fabric (1#). The warp-knitted spacer fabric (WKSF) was used as the middle layer because of its good compression and resilience performance. A knitted fabric was selected as bottom fabric (2#). Then, the 1#, 2# and WKSF were glued with a new type of thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) hot melt adhesive through the self-developed hot pressing bonding machine to perform composite lamination. The laminating process was designed and applied. Under the optimized conditions, peel strength and air permeability were evaluated to explore the influence of WKSF of different structures on lamination.

    Results Three factors, i.e. the temperature, time and glue amount, were studied and analyzed. The glue amount had a positive impact on the peeling strength, and the compounding time showed a favorable influence on the air permeability of the seat fabric. Meanwhile, TPU hot melt adhesive is a dopted to combine automotive seat fabrics, which could meet the standard or even far higher than the standard evaluation of car seat fabric in air permeability and peeling strength.The orthogonal experiment method was adopted to plan the experiments and the results revealed the optimal composite process parameters, which were composite temperature of 120 ℃, time of 100 s, and 50 g/m2glue application. A new material was WKSF of different structures as middle layer for automotive seat cover instead polymeric foam, and the number of meshes for WKSF and the density of spacer filaments could have an impact on the composite lamination results. A variety of factors of WKSF was comprehensively analyzed to obtain a better influence on the composite lamination by the gray near optimization method. When the number of meshes could be obtained 45 mesh number/(25 cm2), the thickness was 7.12 mm, and the density of spacer filaments was 39.71 pieces/cm2, composite automotive seat fabric had excellent performances in air permeability and peeling strength.

    Conclusion The results show that composite car seat fabric materials have multi-functions, such as decoration and preservation type. The surface layer use flame-retardant polyester fibers and ordinary polyester fibers to interweave, double-layer small jacquard to increase aesthetic and flame-retardant.The WKSF as middle layer in car seat cover has an important role of supporting frame, and it could help solve environmental protection problems and recycling problems.Through composite lamination, the automotive seat fabric can achieve better flame retardancy, air permeability, resilience, peeling strength, etc, which can improve the grade, comfort, beauty, green environmental protection of automotive seat fabric, and could meet requirements of automotive seat textiles completely.

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    Advances in application of soft robot in apparel field
    WANG Jianping, ZHU Yanxi, SHEN Jinzhu, ZHANG Fan, YAO Xiaofeng, YU Zhuoling
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (05): 239-247.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230500702
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    Significance With the continuous progress of robotics and automatic control technology, robotics has been widely used in various fields such as medical treatment agriculture, and industry. China is a large producer of industrial robots, but the application of robotics in the apparel field is seriously lagging behind. Therefore, it is imperative to promote the combination of robotics with the apparel industry and enhance its application in automated apparel manufacturing and intelligent apparel. Soft robots are made from deformable materials, which have the advantages of high flexibility and adaptability compared with rigid robots and have now become a research hotspot in the field of robotics. The use of flexible materials enables soft robots to safely collaborate with users, which meets the requirement of co-integration in the apparel field and has great potential in accelerating the process of apparel intelligence.

    Progress This paper reviews the research progress of soft robotics in the apparel field. The paper starts by focusing on the key technology of soft robot. Research status is summarized in four aspects, which are manufacturing materials, manufacturing methods, driving methods, control and modeling. The different driving methods are widely used in textile grasping and transferring, and medical-assisted garments, respectively. Among them, the soft body gripper represented by gas drive shows excellent application prospects in textile fabric gripping and transfer, and the combined gripper and multi-point layout model further simplifies the automated clothing transfer system. The soft robotic garments are divided into upper limb assisted garments and lower limb assisted garments. Hand function rehabilitation gloves in upper limb assistive devices mainly enhance hand muscle strength with the help of pneumatic artificial muscle or tendon drive. The other parts of the upper limb and lower limb assisted flexible robot garments are employed to reduce metabolic costs so as to improve motor performance by means of shape memory alloy fabric muscles, unpowered exoskeleton devices, and so on. It is also pointed out that the development of garment-assisted strategies should focus on the importance of the human-machine system.

    Conclusion and Prospect In oder to address the shortcomings in the existing research, the driving method can be optimized with the help of smart materials, and the sensing and control elements can be reduced in combination with micromachining technology to improve the soft robot manufacturing efficiency and precise control. By analyzing the textile fabric characteristics, the accuracy of textile fabric gripping and dropping, and improve the versatility of fabric gripper to face the complicated fabric handling process are proposed for improvement. The research and development of intelligent garments should adhere to the principle of "human-centered" and optimize the performance of robot-assisted devices with the help of "human-in-the-loop" approach. The research of soft robots is still in its infant stage, and its use in the apparel field is of profound interdisciplinary and system complexity. It is necessary to further explore the industrial model of apparel smart manufacturing, and to integrate soft robotics with the apparel industry based on human needs.

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    Influences of pigment and linear density on spun-dyed polyester staple fiber and yarn
    LU Yunjing, WANG Xue, QI Yuanzhang, SONG Lin, LIAN Zhijun, LI Xin
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (03): 97-105.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230200201
    Abstract517)   HTML9)    PDF (2743KB)(55)       Save

    Objective The large-scale application of spun-dyed fiber corresponds to multi-spes and differentiated fiber production. However, a long transition cycle when changing the fiber color type or pigment content generates a large amount of transition material or waste in this process due to the generally large capacity of the device. Therefore, it is necessary to understand the influences of pigment type, content, and fiber linear density on the color of spun-dyed fibers, as well as the color variation from fiber to yarn, so as to guide more effectively the development and application of spun-dyed staple fibers.

    Method The influences of pigment content (0.3%, 0.9%, and 1.5%) and fiber linear density (1.56, 2.78, 3.89 dtex and 6.11 dtex) on the chromaticity values of semi-dull spun-dyed polyester staple fibers red, yellow, and blue were systematically investigated. In parallel, the variation of chromaticity values from fiber to yarn (linear density of 20 tex, twist factor of 300) was examined and compared with specific specifications of semi-dull dyed staple fibers and bright spun-dyed staple fibers.

    Results The results showed that the variation of pigment content significantly affected the chromaticity values of the semi-dull fibers, especially from light-color fiber to medium-color fiber, which is twice as much as between medium-color fiber and dark-color fiber. The chromatic aberration ΔECMC(2:1) for yellow fibers was 21.8 and 8.4, respectively, which is about three times higher than that for red and blue, mainly because of the contribution of the hue difference ΔH. The influence of fiber linear density variation on ΔECMC(2:1) was not significant, and the higher the linear density, the weaker the effect. Similarly, the ΔECMC(2:1) of yellow was more obvious than the other two colors. When producing products such as yellow, especially fine denier fibers, adjusting the linear density required reconfirming the pigment formulation. In general, the variation of chromaticity values from semi-dull spun-dyed staple fiber to yarn was not significant, with ΔECMC(2:1) in the range of 0.8-2.6. On contrast, the variation of chromaticity values of yellow semi-dull dyed staple fiber to yarn was large, with ΔECMC(2:1) in the range of 3.4-3.9. On further examination, the change rate of ΔECMC(2:1) for dyed fibers was 1.8-6.5 CMC(2:1)/dtex, which was significantly higher than that of spun-dyed fibers. It was also evident that the ΔECMC(2:1) of dyed fibers did not show a significant decrease in the change rate of ΔECMC(2:1) with the increase in the linear density of the spun-dyed fibers. The variation of chromaticity values from bright spun-dyed polyester staple fibers to yarn was similar to that of semi-dull dyed staple fibers, and ΔECMC(2:1), ΔL, ΔC, and ΔH were basically the same meaning that for specific color types, the yarn color matching experience of dyed fibers did serve as a reference.

    Conclusion The chromaticity values of semi-dull staple fibers vary greatly with pigment types and content ranges. When the pigment content needs to be changed significantly during the production process, the masterbatch should be reformulated. Different fiber linear density ranges have different influences on the chromaticity values of the fibers, and the normalized results suggested that the smaller the linear density, the greater the change rate of ΔECMC(2:1). Among them, the change rate of ΔECMC(2:1) is most obvious for yellow, which is mainly due to larger ΔH, indicating that the adjustment of linear density requires reconfirmation of the masterbatch formulation when producing products such as yellow, especially fine denier fibers. For conventional linear density of semi-dull spun-dyed fibers, the color variation from fiber to yarn is not obvious. However, when the fiber linear density is small enough, such as ultrafine fibers prepared by composite spinning, this result needs to be re-examined. Overall, the change rate of ΔECMC(2:1) of dyed fibers is significantly higher than that of spun-dyed fibers, mainly due to the different chromophores of dyes and pigments. The color variation from fiber to yarn for the bright spun-dyed fibers is essentially the same as that for the semi-dull dyed fibers, implying that the color variation law from semi-dull dyed fibers to yarn can be utilized to guide the yarn color matching of the bright spun-dyed fibers.

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    Surface functionalization of fibers based on amyloid-like protein aggregation
    WANG Haoyue, HU Yaning, ZHAO Jian, YANG Peng
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (08): 1-9.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20240400601
    Abstract495)   HTML83)    PDF (11740KB)(322)       Save

    Objective Flexible wearable smart fabric is one of the ideal forms of the next generation of flexible wearable devices, in which the functional fiber construction plays a crucial role. In order to address the issues related to current surface functionalization strategies for polymer fibers such as complex modification processes and poor coating stability, this study developed a fiber surface functionalization strategy based on protein amyloid-like aggregation.

    Method This strategy involves immersing polyester fibers in a lysozyme phase transition solution containing functional substances, which can form stable functional coatings on the fiber surface at room temperature. Silver nanoparticle coating-modified fibers and fabrics, quantum dot-modified fibers, and PEG-modified fibers and fabrics were prepared. During the preparation process, the disulfide bonds in the protein molecules are broken and the resulted unfolded molecular chains undergo amyloid-like aggregation to form protein nanocoatings containing functional units on the fiber surface. The electrical conductivity, antibacterial property, luminescence behavior, hydrophilicity and coating stability of the functional fibers and fabrics were characterized.

    Results Various functional polyester fibers were fabricated based on the amyloid-like protein aggregation. The proteinaceous coating with specific functions was easily formed on the fibers surface within a short time under ambient conditions, exhibiting exceptional interfacial adhesion to withstand bending stresses and prevent functional coating detachment during the prolonged usage. The silver nanoparticle coating-modified fiber was prepared by means of amyloid-like protein aggregation induced by metal ions. The results suggested that when the lysozyme concentration was 0.02 mg/mL, the silver nanoparticle coating-modified fiber had optimal electrical conductivity with a resistance of only 1.39 Ω when length of fiber was 1 cm. It could withstand 37 tear-off cycles in a 3M tape test and showed no significant change in resistance after 20 000 bending cycles, indicating the high stability of the formed silver nanoparticle coating. Furthermore, the silver nanoparticle coating-modified polyester fabrics exhibited certain antibacterial activity. Therefore, silver nanoparticle coating-modified fibers can be used to prepare the conductive antibacterial textiles. Quantum dot-modified fibers exhibited fluorescence under UV irradiation and the fluorescence properties were closely related to the concentration of lysozyme. With the increase of lysozyme concentration, the fluorescence on the fiber surface first increased and then decreased. When the lysozyme concentration was 5 mg/mL, it had the strongest fluorescence intensity and maintained good stability with no significant decrease in fluorescence intensity after 10 000 bending tests. To improve the hydrophilicity of polyester fibers, the lysozyme-PEG conjugates were firstly synthesis. The lysozyme-PEG coating was formed on the fiber surface significantly improving its hydrophilicity, which was evaluated through the characterizations of water drop immersion and moisture permeability. It is demonstrated that water drop immersion time decreased from 24 s to 2.5 s and moisture permeability increased from 4 500 g/(m2·d) to 5 800 g/(m2·d). Furthermore, the water drops immersion time and moisture permeability of PEG modified fabrics was less affected by the cycle of bending.

    Conclusion Inspired by the strong adhesion of protein amyloid structure in nature, functional nanocoatings on the surface of fibers were constructed successfully with high curvature based on the amyloid-like protein aggregation strategy. The strategy is simple, efficient, and environmentally friendly, and the coating function is highly adjustable by controlling the functional substances. Notably, the coating can adhere stably on the surface, effectively solving the coating debonding problem during long-term use. It provides a new method for fiber surface functionalization and has great application prospects in the field of flexible intelligent wearable fabrics.

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    Preparation of elastic conductive composite fiber and its stain and temperature sensing properties
    LUO Mengying, CHEN Huijun, XIA Ming, WANG Dong, LI Mufang
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (10): 9-15.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230706201
    Abstract493)   HTML71)    PDF (11946KB)(252)       Save

    Objective In order to promote the development of multi-functional flexible wearable sensors, it is of great significance to develop a sensor which could sense both strain and temperature. PEDOT:PSS is a conductive polymer with excellent thermoelectric properties, and can be employed as an ideal base material for stretchable strain sensor and temperature sensor. In this research, a composite conductive fiber was prepared by wet spinning method to achieve strain and temperature sensing.

    Method The composite conductive fibers with different PU content were prepared by the wet spinning method. The conductivity, Seebeck coefficient, power factor and mechanical property of the composite conductive fiber were measured and analyzed. To verify the ability of this fiber as a strain sensor for motion detection, it was fixed on the index finger and wrist respectively, and the resistance response at different bending angles was measured. Furthermore, the fiber was sewn into a glove, and the temperature-sensing performance was studied.

    Results With the increase of PU content, the conductive network was destructed by the non-conductive component, resulting in a decrease in conductivity, but the Seebeck coefficient of the composite remained stable because the thermoelectric material was unchanged. The stress and strain of composite fiber were both increased with the increase of PU content. This fiber showed wide work strain range (0%-90%), high sensitivity and good stability. The finger and wrist were bent for 5 times, the maximum resistance changes were basically the same, indicating that the elastic composite wire fiber sensor has good stability. The tensile deformation caused by wrist bending was larger than that caused by finger bending, the corresponding resistance change rate was also much larger than that caused by finger bending. When it is used as a temperature sensor, the voltage is generated by the temperature difference formed at the two ends of the fiber. With the temperature difference increasing, the voltage was increasing too. To detect the water temperature, the fiber was sewn into the glove. Once the hand touches the beaker filled with warm/cold water, a temperature difference was created between the inside and outside of the glove, then a voltage signal was generated. When holding a beaker containing warm water of about 37 ℃, a positive voltage of about 35 μV was generated. After release, the voltage dropped back gradually. When clenched again, the voltage rises at almost the same height. When holding a beaker with ice water at about 0 ℃, a negative voltage of about 50 μV was generated. After release, the voltage returns to 0. When clenched again, a negative voltage of about 45 μV was generated. The result demonstrated that this fiber has great promise for temperature sensing.

    Conclusion The conductive PEDOT:PSS/AgNWs/PU fiber was prepared by wet spinning method. The AgNWs were added to improve the conductivity of the composite fiber. The mechanical properties of PEDOT:PSS could be increased by adjusting the ratio of PU. The PEDOT:PSS/AgNWs/PU composite fiber has good mechanical properties, elongation at break can reach 800%, able to detect 0%-90% strain range, and still maintain good stability under 100 cycles of stretching/recovery. In addition, it can also be used as a temperature sensor to quickly detect human body and environmental temperature, showing great potential in health monitoring.

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    Hydrophobic modification and mechanism of polyester fabrics with direct fluorine modification
    YU Ping, WANG Haiyue, WANG Yi, SUN Qinchao, WANG Yan, HU Zuming
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (10): 137-144.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230901501
    Abstract482)   HTML12)    PDF (18151KB)(58)       Save

    Objective Polyester (PET) fabrics attracted much research attention in textile fields for its high yield and excellent performance. At present, a variety of methods have been developed to modify polyester fibers with antibacterial, flame retardant, electrostatic, and hydrophobic properties. In addition, hydrophobic modification of polyester fiber plays an important part in applications of medical treatment, filtration, separation, and sanitation. However, PET fabrics with many ester linkages are easily hydrophilic, and can be easily polluted, which seriously limits its applications in ocean envrionment. In order to solve the problem of poor hydrophobicity caused by polar ester groups in the main chain structure of polyester fiber, a fluorine modification strategy is proposed.

    Method The simple and efficient hydrophobic modification of the surface of polyester fabrics was carried out by using alkaline solution as etching reagent and trichlorosilane (1H,1H,2H,2H-perfluorooctyl trichlorosilane) as fluoridation modification reagent. The chemical structure, melting point, thermal stability, contact angle, microstructure morphology, and element distribution on surface were characterized by infrared spectroscopy, differential scanning calorimeter, thermogravimetric analyzer, contact angle tester, and scanning electron microscopy-energy disperse spectroscopy, respectively. Moreover, the possible hydrophobic mechanism was analyzed, and the adsorption experiment of petroleum ether by polyester fabrics was also carried out.

    Results The results showed that the polyester fabrics demonstrated similar chemical structure and melting point (around 250 ℃) before and after modification. The high thermal stability of polyester fiber before and after modification was beneficial for the adsorption of oil spill at high temperature. The fluorinated polyester fabrics were successfully modified by perfluorosilane, as evidenced by the increased presence of fluorine elements and silicon elements on the surface of the polyester fiber fabrics. In addition, due to the low surface energy of fluoro-silicon polymers, marine fouling organisms would be difficult to aggregate and would fall off the surface of fabrics easily. The maximum thermal decomposition temperature for all samples was found around 448 ℃ after thermogravimetic analysis. Water droplets were absorbed quickly prior to fluorine modification. The hydrophobicity of the fluorinated polyester fabrics was greatly improved, and the water contact angle was as high as (120±5)°. After 1 h of hydrophobicity treatment, the water contact angle was basically constant. Moreover, the hydrophobic mechanism of the fluorinated PET fabrics was revealed in detail. Firstly, perfluorosilane hydrolyzes in ethanol and a large amount of —OH is formed at the end. The polyester fabric after treated with alkaline solution exposes a large amount of —OH and —COOH. The hydrolyzed perfluorosilane works on the surface of the polyester fiber fabrics to form hydrogen bonds, and the small molecular water was removed under heating conditions. In this case, the modifiers containing fluoro-functional groups are chemically bonded onto the surface of polyester fiber fabrics to obtain fabrics with a low surface energy. The polyester fabrics possessed high adsorption capacity for organic solvents, and the adsorption capacity of polyester fabrics for petroleum ether was found to be 8 g/g within 1 min.

    Conclusion The development of multifunctional PET fabrics with superhydrophobic properties is considered necessary and urgent. In response to this need, a simple and efficient hydrophobic modification method was conducted on polyester fabrics using an alkaline solution as an etching reagent and trichlorosilane (1H,1H,2H,2H-perfluorooctyl trichlorosilane) as a fluorinated modification reagent. This fluorination process resulted in a significant improvement in the hydrophobicity of PET fabrics, as evidenced by larger water contact angles. The research work conducted in this study provides insight into the mechanism of hydrophobic modification of polyester fabrics, which holds great significance for future studies in this field. In a word, the fluorosilane-coated PET fabrics exhibited several advantages, including a simple preparation process, low cost, and effective performance. Consequently, these fabrics have promising applications in large-scale production and utilization for multifunctional purposes such as antifouling and oil-water separation. Overall, the development of superhydrophobic PET fabrics through fluorosilane coating holds immense potential and offers various benefits for the textile industry.

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    Synthesis kinetics and properties of phosphorus containing flame retardant polyethylene terephthalate
    YUAN Ye, ZHANG Anying, WEI Lifei, GAO Jianwei, CHEN Yong, WANG Rui
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (04): 50-58.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221101001
    Abstract482)   HTML8)    PDF (4063KB)(50)       Save

    Objective Polyethylene terephthalate (PET) is a very widely used polyester fiber material, but PET-based materials have problems of being flammable or combustible, so low toxicity, low smoke and flame retardant lasting [(6-oxygen generation-6H-dibenzo [c, e] [1,2] -6-group) methyl] butanedioic acid (DDP) is selected as a flame retardant to PET. The purpose of studying the synthesis kinetics of PET is to effectively regulate the reaction rate, reaction conditions, product quality and other process parameters, and explore the internal law of polyester synthesis reaction, so as to guide the actual production process of polyester.

    Method This study chose copolymeric flame retardant PET as an example of trace modified polyester, prepared different DDP added flame retardant polyester, studied the two phases of esterification and condensation, explored the different condensation temperature, different flame retardant added on the synthetic reaction kinetics, in order to achieve the purpose of process regulation through production amplification. The thermal properties, crystallization properties, flame retardant properties and mechanical properties of flame retardant PET were characterized by testing differential scanning calorimetry, extreme oxygen index, conical calorimeter, scanning electron microscope, energy dispersive spectrometer and microinjection molding instrument.

    Results The activation energy (Ea) of the flame retardant PET with different phosphorus contents of the esterification reaction was gradually decreased from 81.37 kJ/mol to 59.52 kJ/mol with increasing amount of DDP addition at the same reaction temperature. For the same polymerization system, the increase in condensation temperature led to greater reaction rate constant and faster reaction speed. At the same condensation temperature, for different polymerization systems, the reaction rate was constantly decreased and Ea was significantly increased from 69.67 kJ/mol to 223.49 kJ/mol. With the increase of DDP addition, the cold crystallization temperature (Tcc) was increased from 121 ℃ to 143 ℃, the melting temperature (Tm) from 249 ℃ to 224 ℃, and the thermal crystallization temperature (Tmc) from 198 ℃ to 169 ℃. At the same condensation temperature, with the increase of DDP addition, LOI was gradually increased. When the phosphorus content was 1.10%, LOI reached 34%, and LOI did not change significantly. At the same condensation reaction temperature, the ignition time (TTI) was gradually increased to 57 s with the increase of DDP addition, and when the condensation reaction temperature was 270, 275, and 280 ℃, the peak heat release rate (pHRR) and the total heat release amount (THR) were significantly reduced. C and O were the residual carbon of PET, while the residual carbon of flame retardant PET was composed of C, O and P elements, and with the increase of DDP addition, the content of O and P were increased to 13.69% and 9.18%, respectively. PET showed more and denser residual carbon holes, while after DDP with phosphorus content of 0.65% was added, the holes of the residual carbon surface were significantly smaller, but the number of holes was not significantly improved. When the phosphorus content was increased to 1.10%, the number of residual carbon holes was greatly reduced, and the surface of the carbon layer became smoother and more compact with certain isolation effect. After the addition of flame retardant DDP, the elastic modulus of the polymer was increased from 947.3 MPa to 1 103.1 MPa, and with the addition of flame retardant DDP, the fracture elongation of the polymer was decreased from 247% to 190%.

    Conclusion Compared with PET, the addition of DDP promoted the positive esterification reaction but hindered the polycondensation reaction, and the flame retardancy of PET-DDP was significantly improved, and the change of polycondensation reaction temperature had less influence on the flame retardancy. In conclusion, the study on the kinetics of esterification and polycondensation reactions and the flame-retardant properties of PET-DDP provides data support for the adjustment of process parameters in the later industrial production of flame retardant polyester.

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    Dyeing properties of madder pigment on bio-based polyamide 56
    HUANG Lianxiang, WANG Xiangrong, HOU Xueni, QIAN Qinfang
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (07): 94-103.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230202001
    Abstract481)   HTML11)    PDF (3699KB)(79)       Save

    Objective Madder pigment is a natural dye of bright red color with stable performance. Bio-based polyamide 56 (PA56)is an environment-friendly and excellent bio-based polyamide material. In this research, madder pigment was adopted to dye PA56 fabrics, the dyeing process was optimized,and the dyeing kinetic mechanism was studied. The research results provide a theoretical basis for the application of madder natural dyes to bio-based PA56 fabrics. Furthermore, applying natural dyes to bio-based materials would meet the requirements of circular economy and low-carbon sustainable development.

    Method In order to study the dyeing performance of madder on PA56 fabric, the parameters including pH, dyeing time, dyeing temperature and mass fraction of Peregal O were explored to find the optimal conditions. Through K/S value and color characteristics, the influences of mordants and mordant treatment processes were studied. The optimal conditions obtained were subsequently adopted to study the kinetic of madder pigment dyeing. Pseudo first-order and pseudo second-order kinetic models were adopted to examine the mechanism of the adsorption process. Kinetic parameters of madder pigment dyeing on PA56 fiber with different temperature, pH, auxiliaries and mordant were calculated.

    Results The results showed that the optimum process for dyeing bio-based PA56 fabrics with madder pigment was as follows: dyeing pH value is 4.2, dyeing temperature is 80 ℃, dyeing time is 40 min and the amount of Peregal O is 1 g/L. After mordant dyeing, the K/S values of the dyed fabrics were significantly increased, and the color characteristics of dyed fabric changes obviously. Compared with the direct dyed fabric, the color fastness of the mordant dyed fabric has been improved. The kinetics of adsorption for different dye temperatures were evaluated by the pseudo first-order and second-order models. A large equilibrium adsorption density difference between the experiment and calculation was observed for the pseudo first-order model, indicating a poor pseudo first-order fit to the experimental data. The experimental data fitted well to the pseudo second-order kinetic model with high correlation coefficient above 0.999. In addition, the C agreed well with both experiment and calculation, suggesting that the second-order kinetic model well describes the adsorption of madder pigment onto PA56 fiber. The half-dyeing time decreased,and the diffusion coefficient increased with increasing temperature. The influences of dyeing pH, auxiliaries and mordant on the dyeing kinetic parameters were further analyzed. With the increase of pH value, the equilibrium adsorption amount decreased, the half-dyeing time was shortened,and the diffusion coefficient was increased. The addition of sodium sulfate and Peregal O reduced the equilibrium dyeing amount and the half-dyeing time of maddering dye. The rate constant (k2) and the diffusion coefficient were increased with the addition of sodium sulfate and Peregal O. After mordant dyeing, the equilibrium adsorption amount was decreased, the half-dyeing time increased and the diffusion coefficient decreased, but K/S values of the dyed fabrics were increased.

    Conclusion The optimal conditions and dyed fabric with darker color of bio-based PA56 dyed with madder pigment were obtained. The type and mode of mordant can enrich the color tone and improve the color fastness. Fitting calculations reveal that the dyeing process of madder pigment dyeing on bio-based PA56 fabrics conforms to the pseudo second order kinetic model. Madder has a fast adsorption rate on PA56 fabric. The adsorption capacity was dependent with pH value. The addition of sodium sulfate and Peregal O, as well as the pretreatment with mordant, the dyeing processes also conform to the quasi-second order kinetic model.

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    Design and performance evaluation of knitted soft mat fabric
    ZHAO Yajie, CONG Honglian, SUN Jianglong
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (11): 99-105.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230601501
    Abstract479)   HTML20)    PDF (3606KB)(41)       Save

    Objective As the greenhouse effect intensifies, the ambient temperature in summer becomes hotter. This research aims to alleviate that influence of the hot environment in summer on the sleep comfort of the human body, and solve the problems of hard texture, poor moisture absorption and air permeability, and poor heat dissipation of the traditionally made cool mat. From the perspectives of yarn selection and structure design, the soft mat fabric with soft hand feel, good air permeability, moisture absorption, moisture permeability, heat permeability and cooling properties was designed.

    Method Three types of yarn with ultrahigh molecular weight polyethylene (UHMWPE) of 1.85 dtex, nylon with 1.62 dtex and polyester of 2.31 dtex and polyester with superfine polyester draw texturing yarn (DTY) of 0.24 dtex were combined into three groups of yarn. Using the knitted composite structure, three types of knitted soft mat fabrics were produced on KSC-132 domestic Longxing computerized flat knitting machine. The three types of woven fabrics are numbered as 1#, 2# and 3# in turn. The two types of straw mats and rattan mats on the market selected in this paper were numbered 4# and 5# respectively. The softness, air permeability, moisture permeability, moisture absorption and moisture conductivity and cool sensibility of the fabric were tested, and were compared with the two types of mats on the market.

    Results Fabric softness are shown that the longitudinal and transverse bending stiffness of 1# to 3# soft mat fabrics is less than 5.000 mN·cm, far less than 4# straw mat and 5# rattan mat, indicating that the softness of the 3 soft mat fabrics is better than the straw mat and the rattan mat. The air permeability test results of fabrics are shown that the air permeability of all 5 fabrics is 658.19, 303.79, 427.56, 59.82 and 961.74 mm/s, indicating that the air permeability of 5# rattan mat is the best, 4# straw mat is the worst, and the air permeability of 1# soft mat fabric is better than that of 2# and 3#. The moisture permeability test results of fabrics shows that the moisture permeability of 1#-3# soft mat fabrics is 7 615.55, 7 539.22 and 6 801.41 g/(m2·24 h), while the moisture permeability of 4# straw mat and 5# rattan mat is much less than that of the three soft mat fabrics, indicating that the moisture permeability of 1# soft mat fabric is the best. The results of the moisture absorption rating of the 5 fabrics demonstrates that 1#-3# soft mat fabrics soaking time and water absorption rate are rated at grade 3, suggesting that the 3 designed soft mat fabrics have good moisture absorption, and 4# straw mat and 5# rattan mat have lower water absorption rate which is less than grade 3, and they failed to meet the requirement, indicating that poor moisture absorption. The one-way transfer index for 1# and 3# fabrics are rated at level 3, indicating that only 1# and 3# fabrics have good wet conductivity. The test results of the cool sensitivity of fabrics show that the heat transfer coefficient of 1# soft mat fabric is 54.05 W/(m2·℃), which is the largest among the 5 types of fabrics and has the best cool sensitivity. The performance evaluation of the 5 types of fabrics was conducted, and the result shows that the comprehensive rating value of 3 soft mat fabrics is greater than the 2 commercial mats, and the comprehensive evaluation value of 1# fabric is 0.769 4, which is the largest among all 5 fabrics, indicating that its comprehensive performance is the best.

    Conclusion Based on three combinations of fiber materials and one knitted double-sided stitch, three knitted soft mat fabrics were produced. A series of hot and wet comfort performance tests were conducted on these 3 soft mat fabrics, and the results show that the soft mat fabric with UHMWPE is better than the fabrics containing nylon and polyester in related performance. The 3 soft mat fabrics were compared to 2 commercial mats made from straw and rattan respectively, and the results show that the 3 soft mat fabrics are superior in softness, moisture permeability, and moisture absorption over the straw mat and rattan mat, and UHMWPE soft mat fabric introduced cool sensation which is better than the straw mat and rattan mat. For comprehensive evaluation and analysis of the hot and wet comfort performance of all 5 fabrics, the result is that the comprehensive performance of 1# soft mat fabric is the best, and the comprehensive performance of straw mat and rattan mat is worse than that of the 3 soft mat fabrics, so the soft mat fabrics designed in this research can replace the straw mat or rattan mat as a good bed to deal with the hot sleep environment in summer.

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    Quantitative relationship between fabric elasticity and shock absorption performance of sports bras
    SHENG Xinyang, CHEN Xiaona, LU Yaya, LI Yanmei, SUN Guangwu
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (01): 161-167.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221102701
    Abstract470)   HTML15)    PDF (5917KB)(99)       Save

    Objective Anti-shock performance of sports bras is closely related to the tensile properties of fabrics adopted to produce the sports bras, but seldom research was published on the qualitative and quantitative relationship between the two aspects. The aim of this study is to explore the quantitative relationship between the tensile properties of cup fabrics and the shock-absorbing performance of sports bras, and to provide data support for the optimization design of sports bras in the future. The study also aims to investigate the fabric stretching condition of sports bra during exercise.

    Method Three coordinates of seven markers representing the trunk and breast movement were recorded with no bra and with six sports bras used. A dynamic mannequin with 75C-cup breasts was adopted to simulate the vertical breast movement at the running speed of 10 km/h. Six sports bras were produced with exactly the same structure, and the same materials except for the cup materials which were with different elasticity modulus in vertical direction. The quantitative relationship between elasticity modulus of cup materials and vertical breast displacement relative to trunk was fitted by ten curve-fit models. The static and dynamic stretch of cup materials were measured and calculated.

    Results The mean maximum dynamic stretch of the six cup fabrics was (53.44±2.75) mm (rangeing from 50.63-58.55 mm). The mean maximum dynamic elongation of the six cup materials was 30.02% (ranging from 19.52% to 42.80%), implying that it is reasonable to select the elasticity modulus of 30% elongation as the index of cup fabrics. The vertical breast displacement under the no-bra condition was 21.84 mm, and the vertical breast displacement under the six bra conditions ranges from 9.69 mm to 19.76 mm. Pearson test result shows significant negative correlation (r=-0.886, P=0.019<0.05) between the elasticity modulus of cup materials and vertical breast displacement relative to trunk. Using vertical breast displacement under no-bra condition as the reference, less vertical breast displacement represents better shock absorption performance of a sports bra. The findings indicate that greater elastic modulus of cup fabrics induces better shock absorption performance of the bra, which may be resulted from greater stiffness of bra-breast unity relating to greater pressure at the interface of cup and breast exerted by cup fabrics. It was noted that the negative correlation between elastic modulus of cup fabrics and vertical breast displacement was nonlinear, and the vertical breast displacement decreased less as the elasticity modulus of cup materials increases. Eight of the ten curve fit models were screened by the significance of regression equations (P<0.05). The fitting degree (R2=0.891) of power function model was higher than that of other seven curve fit models, suggesting that power function can be adopted to predict the shock absorption performance of sports bras through the elasticity of cup materials. The quantitative relationship between the elasticity modulus of cup materials and vertical breast displacement can be expressed by the fitting equation lnB=-0.248lnE+ln64.289, where E represents the elasticity property modulus of cup fabrics and B represents vertical breast displacement of sports bra. The findings of this study also implied that it is feasible to employ the dynamic mannequin to evaluate performance and factors of the sports bras.

    Conclusion The research showed that that 30% is a reasonable elongation to calculate the cup elasticity modulus when exploring the relationship between cup fabric and the performance of sports bra for women with 75C breasts when running at 10 km/h. The support performance of sports bras increases significantly as the elasticity modulus of cup fabrics increases. Power function can be adopted to predict the support performance of sports bras through cup elasticity modulus. For future research, the impacting mechanism of cup elastic properties on breast movement reduction should be explored by measuring the pressure exerted on the cup-breast interface and the stiffness of breast-cup unity.

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    Preparation and characterization of waterborne flame retardant polyurethane for microfiber synthetic leather
    XIAO Ningning, CHEN Zhijie, OUYANG Yufu, MENG Jingui, SUN Yangyi, QI Dongming
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (09): 113-120.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20231001501
    Abstract468)   HTML15)    PDF (3675KB)(60)       Save

    Objective In order to solve the problems of non-flame retardancy, low strength and lack of toughness of polyurethane coating on microfiber synthetic leather, type of phosphate-containing bialcohols as reactive flame retardants were prepared. It was copolymerized with methylene diphenyl diisocyanate (MDI), polytetramethylene ether glycol (PTMEG) and 2,2-dimethylol butyric acid (DMBA) to prepare water borne flame retardant polyurethane (WPU) with good dispersion, stability and performance, which is used for coating microfiber synthetic leather.

    Method A reactive flame retardant containing phosphorus was synthesized. It was characterized by Fourier transform infrared spectrometer (FT-IR) and nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy (1H NMR). Then, DHIMP was copolymerized with MDI, PTMEG and DMBA to obtain waterborne flame retardant polyurethane (P-WPU). P-WPU was prepared into coating slurry, and the soft and strong polyurethane coating was constructed on the surface of microfiber synthetic leather by double-side scraping, exchange curing and drying.

    Results The water dispersion of P-WPU was good. The particle size of the dispersion increased with the increase of DHIMP mass fraction. With the introduction of DHIMP, the Young's modulus of P-WPU film was gradually increased. When the mass fraction of DHIMP was 13.9%, the mechanical properties of P-WPU reached the best. The LOI of microfiber leather was continuously increasing with the gradual increase of DHIMP mass fraction. The results of vertical combustion test illustrated that the microfiber leather coated by P-WPU with different DHIMP mass fractions had a certain degree of flame retardancy. When the mass fraction of DHIMP was 16.1%, the vertical damage length was 2.3 cm, the continuous burning time was 0.6 s, the smoldering time was 0.3 s, the number of droplets was reduced to 0-1, and the absorbent cotton was not ignited, demonstrating a good flame-retardant effect.

    Conclusion 1) DHIMP was successfully prepared from p-hydroxybenzaldehyde, 3-amino-propanol and DOPO. 2) By introducing DHIMP as chain extender into waterborne polyurethane macromolecules, waterborne polyurethane with flame retardancy was successfully prepared. 3) The flexible and flame-retardant microfiber synthetic leather was prepared with P-WPU coating. The maximum limiting oxygen index was 28.6%, the vertical damage length was 2.3 cm, the follow-fire time was 0.6 s, and the smoldering time was 0.3 s.

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    Current situation and development in applying metaverse virtual space in field of fashion
    WANG Xuewei, YU Xiaokun
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (04): 238-245.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230300202
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    Significance Under the dual influence of Web3 and AIGC, the content and form of virtual spaces are gradually converging towards the shape of the Metaverse, holding substantial commercial and economic value for the textile and fashion industry. This paper reviews and discusses the strategies and methods for constructing virtual spaces for textile and fashion. It is advantageous for textile and fashion brands, manufacturers, and designers to adapt to the dramatic shifts in economic and creative models brought about by the rapid development of Web3 and artificial intelligence. This adaptation would enable these enterprises to better understand the future direction of the market, respond to market demands, innovate more rapidly, enhance production efficiency, reduce costs, and ultimately improve their competitiveness and market share.

    Progress Virtual spaces serve as vital mediums in the Metaverse, enabling fashion brands to engage in activities such as AR try-ons, NFT issuance, digital game development, digital avatar creation, and the establishment of Metaverse communities. Mass-oriented virtual spaces include open-world spaces originating from video games, online 3-D galleries, and digital twins. This paper outlines three methods for establishing fashionable virtual spaces, integration within existing Metaverse projects, the development of standalone fashion virtual spaces, and the creation of pop-up event spaces. It summarizes virtual space applications in the textile and fashion industry, encompassing brand promotion, virtual try-ons, clothing customization systems, digital clothing design tools, and more. By studying and reviewing current operational models of fashion spaces, the paper identifies shortcomings in terms of commercial viability, practicality, and interactivity, such as inadequate technical support, low audience engagement, poor user experiences, and insufficient traffic conversion. The advantages of physical commercial centers over virtual spaces in terms of government support, historical and cultural significance, and interactivity are discussed. Additionally, the rapid development of artificial intelligence is noted for its transformative effect on fashion creative models.

    Conclusion and Prospect The next phase of focus in the textile and fashion sector's virtual spaces is the development of fashion integrated business complexes. Fashion virtual spaces should be grounded in successful physical integrated business complexes, creating spaces that mirror physical entities to achieve a profound integration of the physical and digital economies. This paper provides specific implementation pathways and approaches to build a fashion integrated commercial complexes in virtual space. This includes leveraging virtual reality and artificial intelligence to cultivate culturally rich, real-world-connected fashion business centers within the Metaverse. Specific strategies involve drawing inspiration and investment from successful physical businesses, establishing digital twins, creating fashion business centers that amalgamate fashion concepts, artistic creativity, lifestyles, culture, and history, and deploying, expanding, and promoting them through curation. Employing AR and MR technologies to project virtual scenes into the physical world is recommended, as is using physical scanning or encouraging user participation in space co-creation activities to enrich virtual space content. Leveraging artificial intelligence to develop digital roles such as digital fashion designers and digital shopping assistants can bridge the gap between physical and virtual spaces. Making effective use of Web3's advantages in confirming creative ownership, encouraging collaborative user content creation, and employing incentive mechanisms like collection, rewards, and competition can attract user participation in content creation and sharing within virtual spaces, leading to traffic growth and realization. Ultimately, this will facilitate the deep integration of the physical and digital economies.

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    Machine vision-based defect detection method for sewing stitch traces
    CHEN Yufan, ZHENG Xiaohu, XU Xiuliang, LIU Bing
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (07): 173-180.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230708401
    Abstract463)   HTML15)    PDF (15246KB)(121)       Save

    Objective In order to solve the problems of slow speed, low efficiency, and high cost in conventional manual quality inspection methods for sewing thread, this study proposes a machine vision-based method for sewing thread defect detection in seams. This study aims to achieve fast, accurate, and automated identification of common defects such as cast thread, jumper thread, and broken thread in seams. This study also highlights the importance and necessity of improving product quality and production efficiency in the textile and garment industry.

    Method This study adopts a two-step approach for defect detection. Firstly, a low-cost array camera was adopted to capture real-time images of the sewing seam and the DeblurGAN-v2 method was employed to remove motion blurriness from the images, aiming at improving image clarity. Secondly, the student-teacher feature pyramid matching method was applied for anomaly detection, which transfers the knowledge from a pre-trained ResNet-34 model as the teacher network to a student network with the same architecture, so as to learn the distribution of normal images. By comparing the differences between the feature pyramids generated by the two networks as a scoring method, the defect detection system made decisions on whether the image has anomalies, and marked the abnormal areas with a heat distribution map.

    Results The defects of flat stitch fabric and overstitch fabric were tested and the performance of the proposed method was evaluated in terms of recall and accuracy rates. The results show that the proposed method can effectively detect various sewing thread defects and has high recall and accuracy rates for different types of defects. This study also provided some examples of defect detection results and scores for different types of defects.

    Conclusion The feature pyramid matching technique is applied in the field of stitch trace detection. By adding the difficult sample mining technology, the average detection accuracy is increased to more than 95%, and the detection speed of a single image is less than 0.04 s. Aiming at image motion blur ring caused by jitter and fast movement. The DeblurGAN-v2 framework is used as the framework of deblurring algorithm, and the blueprint convolution is added to change the backbone network, and the processing speed of a single image is kept below 0.06 s. The model has excellent interference resistance and high processing speed, and can meet the requirement of stitch trace recognition.

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    Comparison of cocoon quality and raw silk performance between coccons produced from whole instar artificial diet and mulberry leave reared silkworm
    JIANG Kexin, MAO Ying, PAN Mengyao, LÜ Wangyang, JIANG Wenbin
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (10): 16-22.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230704901
    Abstract461)   HTML18)    PDF (4017KB)(79)       Save

    Objective In recent years, China has made substantial progress in the research and development in silkworms artificial diet and the innovation of breeding technology. Many researchers studied on using artificial diet in the young instars and applying mulberry leaves in the last larval instars, focusing on the growth and cocoon quality of silkwormsbut with little attention on the raw silk. Therefore, it is necessary to study the cocoon quality, silk quality and raw silk performance of silkworms reared with artificial diet in whole instar.

    Method The study was carried out by using different origins of silkworm cocoons (silkworm cocoons reared with mulberry leaves of Chunan and Haian, non-factory silkworm cocoons reared with artificial diet in whole instar, and factory silkworm cocoons reared with artificial diet in whole instar) reared with artificial diet and mulberry leaves in whole instar. We tested cocoon width to observe the appearance and morphology. Through reeling, we calculated the number of rushing upon cocoons per myriameter, reelability percentage. Then, the degumming experiment of raw silk was carried out to calculate the gum content of raw silk as well as mechanical performance evaluation. Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy, scanning electron microscopy and X-ray diffraction were adopted to characterize the microscopic morphology of raw silk and analysis. In addition, the experimental results were compared by one-way analysis of variance.

    Results In terms of appearance, the cocoons of silkworm reared with artificial diet and mulberry leaves in whole instar are oval, and the cocoons of silkworm reared with artificial diet in whole instar are smaller but more orderly. In terms of cocoon quality and silk quality, silkworm cocoons reared with artificial diet in whole instar have a slightly lower amount of total cocoon weight and cocoon shell weight, which is related to the fact that after the silkworms feed with artificial diet, their ingestion is not as good as that of mulberry leaves-breeding silkworms, but the rate of cocoon layer shows higher. In addition, whether or not the form of factory sericulture also has an impact on the cocoon and silk quality performance of silkworms reared with artificial diet in whole instar was also studied. The total cocoon weight and cocoon shell weight of silkworms reared with non-factory sericulture in whole instar are lower, and the length and the fineness of bave are not as good as those of the other three silkworm cocoons. The cocoons of silkworms reared with mulberry leaves in whole instar has less rushing upon cocoons during reeling, better reelability percentage, reelability silk length, and better reelability performance. For raw silk, the surface morphology of raw silk under different feeding methods is basically the same, raw silk gum content of silkworm reared with artificial diet in whole instar is higher, and raw silk gum content of silkworm reared with factory artificial diet of whole instar is the highest. The breaking strength and the elongation at break of raw silk is not significantly different from that of mulberry leave-reared. In addition, there is no significant difference in the secondary structure of raw silk between the whole instar artificial diet and the whole instar mulberry leaves, which all have β-sheet, random coil, α-helix and β-turn structure.

    Conclusion There is no significant difference in the secondary structure and performance between the silkworm cocoons reared with artificial diet and mulberry leaves in whole instar, but there are differences in cocoon quality and silk quality, which can provide reference for the related research of artificial diet rearing silkworms. In addition, there is also a certain relationship between the quality of cocoon and silk of silkworms rearing with artificial diet in whole instar and whether it is factory sericulture. Factory sericulture can improve the production technology and growth environment, which will also have an impact on the growth and development of silkworms.

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    Preparation and performance of photoresponsive long-afterglow phosphorescent fibers with spirooxazine doping
    WANG Xiaoyan, YANG Shukang, XIAO Guowei, DU Jinmei, XU Changhai
    Journal of Textile Research    2025, 46 (02): 1-9.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20240800301
    Abstract459)   HTML89)    PDF (7916KB)(174)       Save

    Objective Photoresponsive luminescent fibers represent a promising new type of optical functional material for applications in optics, sensing, and biomedicine. Many efforts have been focused on photochromic fibers and fluorescent fibers to develop photoresponsive fibers. However, long-afterglow luminescent fibers as a type of photoresponsive fibers are still rare, partially related to the process complexity, dependance on advanced technologies, specialized equipment, and high preparation costs.

    Method In this work, spirooxazine (SPO) with photochromic properties and long-afterglow material isophthalic acid (IPA) were introduced into the polyurethane spinning solution through doping. A stimuli responsive luminescent polyurethane fiber was prepared using wet spinning. The effect of doping amount of IPA on the long-afterglow luminescence performance of fibers was investigated. The dynamic multi-color long-afterglow luminescence properties of polyurethane fibers were characterized by the phosphorescence spectra, long-lived phosphorescence lifetime and the afterglow luminescent images.

    Results The fluorescence emission positions of polyurethane fibers with different mass fractions of isophthalic acid (IPA) were found almost the same, with a significant fluorescence emission characteristic peak at 404 nm. However, the fluorescence emission band of the fibers was relatively broad when the doping mass fraction of IPA was below 10%, and it became noticeably narrower when the content exceeded 10%. The phosphorescence emission intensity of polyurethane fibers gradually increased as the mass fractions of IPA increased. However, there was no significant improvement in the phosphorescence intensity, the afterglow duration and the luminance of the polyurethane fibers when the mass fraction of IPA increased from 12.5% to 15.0%, indicating an optimal doping IPA mass concentration was 12.5%. The afterglow luminescent polyurethane fibers displayed a bright green afterglow lasting over 7 s after the UV light was removed. In addition, the long-lived phosphorescence lifetime of polyurethane fibers with different mass fractions of (IPA) was also investigated. IPA emitted at 500 nm with a long-lived phosphorescence lifetime of 1 667 ms when excited at 315 nm. It was found that the long-lived phosphorescence lifetime of polyurethane fibers containing different mass fractions of IPA were almost the same as that of IPA, indicating that the long-lived phosphorescence lifetime of polyurethane fibers doped with IPA was not significantly changed. Additionally, the long-afterglow luminescence color of polyurethane fiber was regulated utilizing the photochromic properties of spirooxazine (SPO) in order to obtain the polyurethane fibers with dynamic multi-color long-afterglow luminescent over time. There was a significant fluorescence emission characteristic peak at 404 nm for the polyurethane fibers co-doped with IPA and SPO (IPA/SPO/polyurethane fibers). While the phosphorescence emission characteristic peak of IPA/SPO/polyurethane fiber had a blue shift, moving from 500 nm to 435 nm, because of the light response characteristic of SPO. IPA/SPO/polyurethane fibers emitted blue fluorescence under 365 nm UV irradiation. After turning off the UV irradiation, the polyurethane fibers exhibited a dynamic process of rapid recovery from blue to white under daylight. In the dark, polyurethane fibers quickly displayed a blue afterglow lasting about 1 s. It turned cyan after 3 s and finally turned green. The luminescence intensity of polyurethane fibers gradually decreased and disappeared after 7 s.

    Conclusion Isophthalic acid (IPA) is proven to be an excellent energy donor for the molecular doping systems. It can be doped into polyurethane spinning to endow polyurethane fiber with long-afterglow luminescence properties. The polyurethane fiber exhibited the best long-afterglow luminescent performance when the addition amount of IPA was 12.5% of the mass concentration of the polyurethane spinning solution. The long-afterglow luminescence color of polyurethane fiber was regulated utilizing the photochromic properties of spirooxazine (SPO). The polyurethane fibers co-doped with IPA and SPO (IPA/SPO/polyurethane fibers) exhibited excellent photochromic and long afterglow luminescence properties. The color of polyurethane fiber quickly changed from colorless to blue upon UV irradiation. After the UV light was turned off, it exhibited a dynamic long afterglow luminescence gradually changing from blue to green, with a luminescence duration of about 7 s. The polyurethane fibers not only provide visual photochromism but also regulate its dynamic multi-color long afterglow performance over time.

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    Design of quartz/fiber mat three-dimensional spacer fabrics and investigation of their thermal insulation properties
    LI Jiugang, SHI Yufei, LIU Keshuai, LI Wenbin, KE Guizhen
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (06): 53-58.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230203501
    Abstract456)   HTML10)    PDF (4569KB)(33)       Save

    Objective Quartz fibers and their fiber mats are known for their high temperature resistance, strength and insulation and are widely used in the aerospace industry. However, how to composite quartz fibers and their fiber mats to give them the integrity and washout resistance of aerospace materials. Therefore, we performed composite weaving using an integrated weaving method and investigated the thermal insulation properties of quartz/fiber mats three-dimensional spacer fabrics.This study aims to provide valuable insights into the weaving of quartz fibers and the overall structural thermal insulation properties of three-dimensional fabrics.

    Method Quartz/fiber felt three-dimensional fabrics, quartz yarn and fiber felt with better thermal insulation properties using a one-piece knitting method for knitting, fabric thickness instrument to measure the quartz/fiber felt three-dimensional spacing fabrics, calculating the number of single-layer quartz fiber fabrics of equal thickness, placing the fabric on the top of the heating plate, the sensor to measure the temperature of the fabric's upper and lower surfaces, calculating the rate of retention of the thermal insulation.

    Results According to the variation of the fabric thermal insulation performance, the thermal insulation performance of quartz/fiber mat 3-D spacer fabrics is much higher than that of quartz fiber fabrics of the same thickness. By comparing thermal insulation retention of ordinary quartz fiber fabrics with quartz/fiber mat 3-D fabrics. Quartz/fiber felt three-dimensional fabrics of thermal insulation performance is significantly better than the same thickness of ordinary quartz fiber fabrics, spacer fabrics of thermal insulation temperature retention rate of up to 300 ℃, the retention rate of 64.3% is ordinary quartz fabrics insulation effect of 4.14 times, so it shows that the quartz/fiber felt three-dimensional spacer fabrics can be better applied to the application of heat-insulating materials.

    Conclusion The following conclusions were drawn from the experiments. The quartz/fiber mat three-dimensional spacer fabrics showed a linear decrease in insulation temperature retention of 64.3%, 64.2%, 60.7%, 58.4%, and 56.4% with the increase in temperature during the testing process, which was attributed to the fact that the quartz fiber mats were partially damaged to the fabric insulation structure after being heated to too high a temperature, resulting in a decrease in the heat insulation capacity. In the test of ordinary single-layer ordinary quartz fiber fabric, with the increase of temperature, its thermal insulation temperature retention rate is 15.4%, 15.5%, 15.9%, 17.2%, 18.6%, and quartz/fiber mats three-dimensional spacer fabrics thermal insulation performance in contrast to spacer fabrics for the ordinary quartz fabrics 4 times, thus verifying that quartz/fiber mats three-dimensional spacer fabrics thermal insulation performance is excellent.

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    Smart clothing design for autistic children with distance monitoring and auxiliary prompt functions
    WANG Xinyu, TIAN Mingwei
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (03): 156-162.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230202801
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    Objective Social and emotional disorders are the core issues that affect the normal life of autistic children. Two sets of smart clothing that meet patients' needs for wearing were designed in this study, i.e., sensory integration, psychological identity and aesthetic preference, and social distance monitoring and auxiliary prompting functions. This study integrated the concept of traditional Chinese medicine in functional clothing design, expecting to help develop the auxiliary therapy and smart wearable research and application direction of autistic children.

    Method The clothing needs of autistic children were firstly summarized in three aspects: wearing, feeling and psychological identity using questionnaire survey and field interview. Ultrasonic distance sensor technology was adopted to realize social distance monitoring. Flexible pneumatic air bags and heating carbon fiber were adopted to simulate traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) massage therapy for autism, and heat and pressure were adopted to stimulate wrist acupuncture points to achieve certain goals of intervention and auxiliary prompting of patients.

    Results Children with autism need clothing with clear signs to guide them put on and take off with easy ways of fastening and undressing. Study indicated that they preferred soft and non-irritating fabrics and clothes with regular patterns and cool colors. Concealed intelligent controls with auxiliary debugging functions were more in line with the psychological identity needs of such children and their families. Reasonable social distancing is helpful to maintain patients' psychological sense of security. In combination with social distancing and epidemic prevention suggestions, the monitoring distance selected was 0.5-3 m. The ultrasonic distance sensor has high precision with small shape and dirt resistance which could effectively identify social distance when embedded in clothing, and the effective monitoring range was within 0.2-3 m. Statistics of TCM treatment of autistic children showed that stimulation of acupoints could effectively relieve the emotional disorder symptoms of patients. Multiple effective acupoints were distributed centrally at the wrist. Combined with the convenience of clothing, flexible air bags were placed at the cuff position to simulate the effect of TCM massage. The data showed that appropriate clothing pressure was helpful to release pressure, no more than 7.90 kPa at the arm. CLO3D software was adopted to simulate the pressure of the cuff on the wrist when the airbag was not inflated, and the pressure on the wrist after inflation. When a patient was in the unsafe social distance, the flexible air bag and the heating carbon fiber inside the clothing were triggered, and the pressure and heat stimulate the wrist acupuncture point to stimulate the patient so as to relieve anxiety. According to the survey results of patients' clothing needs, the smart children's clothing was designed as H/A shape with zipper fastening, cool colors, and geometric pocket design. The fabric was designed with two layers, where the inner layer is soft and comfortable, and the outer layer has certain support to adapt to functional accessories.

    Conclusion The ultrasonic distance sensor is connected with the flexible air bag and the heating carbon fiber to achieve multiple functions of social distancing monitoring, air bag massage and heating, which can not only play the effect of auxiliary reminder secretly, but also properly relieve the emotional disorders of children with autism to a certain extent, and meet the physical and mental needs of patients and caregivers. The integration of TCM treatment concepts into clothing has a huge market prospect and is of great significance for the improvement and application of smart clothing and adjuvant therapy effect for autistic children and other special groups.

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    Research progress of nanofiber structure prepared by electrospinning
    LIU Sitong, JIN Dan, SUN Dongming, LI Yixuan, WANG Yanhui, WANG Jing, WANG Yuan
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (06): 201-209.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230103602
    Abstract448)   HTML20)    PDF (12850KB)(105)       Save

    Significance With the rapid development of nanotechnology, the application of nanofiber materials in the fields of energy storage, catalytic filtration, biomedicine, food engineering and sensors has always attracted the attention of researchers because of its good continuity, high specific surface area and large aspect ratio. However, an effective preparation method has always constrained the development of nanofibers. Electrospinning technology, as the only method that can directly and continuously prepare nanofibers, has had a profound impact in the field of nanofiber material preparation since its birth and patent application in 1934, because of its simple device, convenient operation, low cost and other advantages. Electrospinning technology is a technology that uses polymer as a template to prepare ultrafine fibers with adjustable structure and diameters ranging from nanometer to micrometer under the combined action of high voltage electric field and Taylor cone. Because the nanofibers prepared by this technology have the advantages of large specific surface area, easy structure control and easy functionalization, it has wide application potential in the field of nano-functional materials.

    Progress In recent years, the research work of electrospinning technology has mainly focused on the process optimization, mechanism discussion, functional modification and structural multi-level of nanofibers. With the rapid development of electrospinning technology, the spinning liquid system that can be spun has gradually expanded from polymer to biological macromolecules, inorganic substances and organic/inorganic composites. According to different fiber structures, spinning liquid system and spinning mechanisms, the electrospinning technology has been developed from the classical electrospinning to the coaxial electrospinning, parallel electrospinning, conjugated electrospinning, off-axisl electrospinning, and single-axis electrospinning by improving the spinning device, adjusting the spinning parameters and combining the post-processing methods. With the continuous improvement of spinning efficiency, nanofibers have gradually developed from simple smooth filaments to diversified morphology and multi-level structure, and the application field has also developed from single function to multi-function and multi-function coordination. With the deepening of research at home and abroad, the remarkable achievements of electrospinning technology in the preparation of various structured nanofibers provide a feasible technical reference for the control of oriented nanofiber structure. Therefore, at present, achieving the designability of nanofiber structure and exploring the application field of nanofiber materials are one of the key directions for researchers to develop electrospinning technology at this stage.

    Conclusion and Prospect In order to further study the electrospinning technology and the structure design of nanofibers, realize the directional structure control of nanofibers, and effectively improve the specific surface area, mechanical properties and morphology uniformity and order of nanofibers. This paper summarizes the structural characteristics, preparation methods and electrospinning mechanism of different nanofibers based on solid nanofibers, porous nanofibers, hollow nanofibers, nanocables and Janus nanofibers, compares the research progress and achievements of electrospinning technology in the preparation methods, formation mechanisms and structure control of different nanofibers, and it further shows that electrospinning technology has broad application potential in realizing nanoscale oriented structure control of nanomaterials. At present, electrospinning technology is one of the most promising preparation methods for preparing nanofibers, although there are many problems to be solved, such as the inability to produce on a large scale, the existence of barriers to the lower limit of fiber diameter, the poor mechanical properties of fibers, and the difficulty in solvent recovery, with the continuous deepening of theoretical research on electrospinning technology and the continuous emergence of novel fiber structures, electrospinning technology is bound to have a broader development space in the preparation of controllable nanofiber structures, and will also promote the development of nanomaterials to functional multi-domain, structural diversification and environment-friendly.

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    Structure design and performance of fiber capacitive sensor
    CHEN Ying, SHEN Nadi, ZHANG Lu
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (05): 43-50.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221002501
    Abstract447)   HTML27)    PDF (3823KB)(144)       Save

    Objective Due to the limitation of the Young's modulus of the dielectric layer of the current flexible capacitive sensor, the performance of the capacitor, such as sensitivity, cannot meet the requirements, so material selection and structural design of the electrodes and dielectric layers of fabric sensor are required to improve the sensing performance. In this paper, a series of polypyrrole composited silk fabrics were used as fabric electrodes, and wool fiber aggregates were used as dielectric layers to construct an all-fiber capacitive pressure sensor.

    Methods Based on the calculation formula of effective dielectric constant, the pores in the fabric electrode and the air dielectric layer have a positive impact on the sensitivity of the sensor. Therefore, the polypyrrole composite silk fabrics were used as the electrode, and fiber and air aggregates were used as dielectric layers to study the effects of different fabric structures, different types and contents of fibers in dielectric layers on the performance of capacitive sensors. Application explorations of human motion and safety detection were also done.

    Results The square resistance of polypyrrole composited crepe satin fabric (69 g/m2) was the smallest, which was 42 Ω/□. This is because the density of crepe satin silk is the largest, the diameters of yarns are also larger, the warp yarn is twisted, and the weft yarn is not twisted. The sensitivities of cotton and wool fiber capacitors were better than that of acrylic fiber. Because wool fiber has better elasticity and uses less, so wool fiber is finally selected as the dielectric layer. When the height of the dielectric layer is higher, the wool content is larger, the dielectric constant is larger, and the capacitance value is larger, but when the height is too high, the air content decreases, and the deformation ability of the overall dielectric layer decreases, thereby reducing the capacitance change rate, so he height of 1.4 cm as the dielectric layer had the best performance. The fabric 5# (69 g/m2 plain crepe satin) has the highest capacitance of 66 pF when it is used as the electrode. This is probably because the porosity of the fabric 5# is the smallest, the effective area of the electrodes is the largest, and the capacitance is the highest. With the increase of applied pressure, the capacitance increases and the capacitance change rate also increases. The highest sensitivity was 1.08 N-1 at 0.098 N. In the process of applying pressure, the structure of the fabric electrode will change, which will cause the change of the effective relative area and the air content in the fabric electrode, which will also affect the dielectric constant. When the pressure is greater than 1.96 N, the capacitance changes rate of the fabric 5# is the largest, and its sensitivity is the best, so the fabric 5# is used as the capacitance sensor electrode. The capacitive sensor has good stability, and is expected to be used in limb movement monitoring and safety monitoring in public places.

    Conclusion 1) The influence of fabric structure on electrical properties can be concluded as: the greater the fabric density, the denser the yarn arrangement, the more conductive paths, and the smaller the resistance; the fabric electrode not only affects the effective relative area, but also affect the dielectric constant, which in turn affects the overall capacitance. The effect pattern needs further study. 2) The optimized assembly conditions of the capacitive sensor are the wool fiber and air aggregates with a height of 1.4 cm as the dielectric layer, and the electrode is the polypyrrole composite fabric of crepe satin (69 g/m2). The existence of air in the dielectric layer has a great influence on the height of the dielectric layer and the change of the dielectric constant during the compression process; the structure of the electrode fabric will affect the dielectric constant and effective relative area during the compression process. The above factors will ultimately affect the sensitivity of the sensor. Therefore, the next step will be to further optimize the structure of the dielectric layer and fiber composition to find a quantitative relationship, thereby improving the sensitivity of the sensor. 3) Application studies have shown that the capacitive sensor has the ability to sense the bending changes of fingers and the proximity of metal objects and fingers within 10cm, which is expected to apply this multifunctional, low-cost electronic fabric sensor to artificial skin, wearable health detection and contactless detection equipment superior.

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    Fully automated camouflage pattern design based on background stitching and texture templates
    ZHAN Yuting, MEI Chennan, WANG Yan, XIAO Hong, ZHONG Yueqi
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (05): 94-101.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230201501
    Abstract447)   HTML9)    PDF (14639KB)(43)       Save

    Objective In the military, the ability to reponse quickly to the battlefield environment can determine the success or failure of a battle. Therefore, It is need ed to improve the design speed of camouflage patterns and the ability to adapt to the target environment to enhance the camouflage effect of patterns and thus improve the military level of the army.

    Method First, we automatically combined the background environment dataset into a stitching map and extracted the primary color of the background stitching map by mean clustering method; then, we proposed four automatic design methods for camouflage texture templates, including multi-circular random distribution method, WGN Fourier spectrum method, texture image generation method, and layered cloud method. Finally, after the mean clustering of camouflage texture templates, the camouflage pattern was obtained by replacing the template colors with the primary colors.

    Results Experiments were conducted to construct virtual scenes and a dataset of target background images was created. We stitched the images in the dataset into a single large stitched image. The stitched image was detected based on a color histogram in RGB color space, and a cluster K value of 6 was determined. Six colors were extracted from the eight virtual jungle terrain scenes as primary colors, and four different camouflage patterns were generated based on a texture template method. The experimental time was short, and the design rate was high. In order to reduce the impact of environmental and human factors, camouflage assessment has been relatively carried out using templates based on multi-circular random distribution method, templates based on WGN Fourier spectrum method, templates based on texture image generation method, and templates based on layered cloud method as camouflage targets, and non-environment specific jungle camouflage (FLECKTARN-style jungle camouflage) as a reference. In the subjective evaluation experiments, the experimental results. Each test set had a 100% probability of discovery and different average search times, with the test set of camouflage patterns designed based on the multi-circular random distribution method having the longest average search time of 1.561 4 s. The average search times of all four camouflage patterns designed using this paper's method were greater than those of the reference pattern. Among them, the camouflage search time increased by 8.1% for the template based on the multi-circular random distribution method, 1.1% for the template based on the WGN Fourier spectroscopy method, 2.4% for the template based on the texture image generation method, and 3.7% for the template based on the layered cloud coloring method. In the objective evaluation experiments, the experimental results were shown. The average search time of the PF-Net network for the test set images was the same for both, 0.04 s, but the probability of discovery was different. The detection probability of the test sets designed according to the fully automated camouflage pattern design method based on background stitching and texture templates were both lower than that of the reference target, with the detection probability of the template camouflage based on the multi-circular random distribution method being 45% lower than the detection probability of the reference target.

    Conclusion For automatic camouflage to achieve excellent results, it is necessary to react quickly to generate camouflage colors and textures according to changes in the target environment. This paper proposes a fully automatic camouflage pattern design method based on background splicing and texture templates with a high design rate, rapid response to the target environment, and good camouflage effect according to the modern army's demand for camouflage combined with computer technology. Through the subjective and objective evaluation of camouflage detection, the camouflage effect of the camouflage pattern is evaluated with the search time and detection probability as the primary indexes. The feasibility and effectiveness of the method are verified, and the generated pattern has a good camouflage effect. The camouflage design method in this paper provides various ideas for constructing camouflage design and achieves a more accurate and convenient camouflage pattern design for target area environments.

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    Synthesis and application of microfiber leather impregnated with waterborne polyurethane
    LI Chen, WANG Dong, ZHONG Hongtian, DONG Peng, FU Shaohai
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (03): 129-136.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230303001
    Abstract447)   HTML9)    PDF (4963KB)(53)       Save

    Objective As an artificial leather product, impregnated microfiber leather owns excellent thermodynamic properties, rebound resilience, softness, and fullness. However, the main material for its production is solvent polyurethane, which causes serious environmental pollution. Whereas waterborne polyurethane, an environmental-friendly material, brings problems of surface cracks and poor texture when applied to the impregnation of microfiber leather. In order to solve these problems, a particular waterborne polyurethane emulsion was designed and synthesized by referring to the solvent polyurethane with large molecular weight and small particle size, and then successfully applied to the production of impregnated microfiber leather.

    Method The prepolymer method was adopted to synthesize the target waterborne polyurethane emulsion by using isophorone diisocyanate (IPDI) as the hard segment, polycarbonate diol (PCDL) as the soft segment, 2,2-bis(hydroxymethyl) propionic acid as the hydrophilic chain extender, and 1,4-butanediol as the flexible chain extender, trimethylolpropane (TMP) as internal cross-linking agent, and ethylenediamine as post chain extender. The relative molecular weight and emulsion particle size of waterborne polyurethane were controlled by adjusting the relative molecular weight of PCDL and the content of TMP, the waterborne polyurethane emulsion with the optimal formula was applied to the production of impregnated microfiber leather.

    Results Firstly, emulsion tests were conducted to explore the influences of PCDL relative molecular weight and TMP content on the waterborne polyurethane emulsion in different aspects. According to the results, the relative molecular weight and emulsion particle size of the waterborne polyurethane emulsion was increased with the rising of the PCDL relative molecular weight, and the emulsion particle size decreases first and then increases sharply with the growth of TMP content. When the PCDL relative molecular weight reached 500, the emulsion would be cured smoothly to form a film, and when the PCDL relative molecular weight exceeds 3 000, the emulsion doesn't emulsify but disperses in a flocculating form due to the overlong molecular chain segment. When the TMP content surpasses 3%, the waterborne polyurethane emulsion obviously begins to precipitate due to excessive long-chain network structures and seriously intertwined segments. When the PCDL relative molecular weight amounts to 2 000 with a 3% TMP mass fraction, the synthesized waterborne polyurethane demonstrates a strong storage stability with a relative molecular weight of 5.93×104 and a particle size of merely 89.54 nm. After DSC, DMA, and mechanics property analysis tests on the cured films of the above waterborne polyurethane, it was concluded from PCDL molecular weight that the storage modulus and loss modulus of the films at high temperature can reach 2 837.57 MPa and 278.87 MPa, while the breaking strength was 3.725 MPa with an elongation at break of 763.99%. The target product was obtained by adopting the above waterborne polyurethane to produce the impregnated microfiber leather. Its cross-sectional SEM images showed that the internal bonding and curing of waterborne polyurethane were significantly improved with even and stable distribution. It was observed from the tensile diagrams of the microfiber leather that the surface cracks were also resolved.

    Conclusion A waterborne polyurethane emulsion which had large molecular weight and small particle size was produced, with both its emulsion state and physical and chemical properties showing stability. While applied to the production of impregnated microfiber leather, it was observed that the obtained waterborne polyurethane demonstrated high performance as well as the possibility of large-scale production. The curing condition inside the microfiber leather has been improved by enhancing the wettability and bonding property of the substrate in the real application, thus effectively reducing surface cracks, and retaining a good texture and elasticity.

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    Research status and development trend of smart sitting posture correction garment
    HOU Yujie, LIU Huanhuan, WANG Zhaohui
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (08): 250-258.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230606002
    Abstract445)   HTML20)    PDF (4935KB)(89)       Save

    Significance An analysis based on more than 30 years of data suggests that the number of cases of low back pain is increasing worldwide, and there will be more than 800 million people with low back pain worldwide by 2050. The reason for this phenomenon is that the development of modern education and technology has led to a dramatic change in the way people live and work, and sitting has become the most common posture used today. The sedentary process is accompanied by a variety of poor sitting posture, which causes unnatural bending of the spine and uneven distribution of forces on the spine and back, thus leading to spinal disorders, such as lumbar muscle strain, lumbar disc protrusion, and scoliosis. According to medical research, correcting sitting posture is an effective way to prevent and reduce back pain. Therefore, the development of wearable products for posture correction is necessary.

    Progress The orthopedic wearable products currently available are categorized according to the way they are worn, and can be divided into head-mounted, miniature wearable and clothing wearable. From the comparison of two garment wearable products, including sitting posture correction belts and sitting posture corrective garment, it was found that the physical stretching of the orthopedic straps will have a strong sense of constraint on the body, and at the same time, the sitting posture correction belts mainly relies on inertial sensors, and the monitoring area is relatively limited. The development of smart textiles for creating smart sitting posture correction garment makes up for the shortcomings of sitting posture correction belts, which combines comfort and functionality and has greater prospects for development. This is followed by a specific analysis of the three key technologies of the sitting posture correction garment system, i.e., wearable sensing technology, system identification technology, and recognition feedback alerting technique. The monitoring methods of two major wearable sensing systems, microelectromechanical systems and smart textile systems, are described and compared. Based on the types of signal recognized by the wearable sensor, the principle of discriminating bad sitting postures is explained. The feedback methods in the smart sitting posture correction garment are introduced from three senses i.e., visual, auditory and tactile, and the results show that the multi-sensory recognition feedback mode is more effective.

    Conclusion and Prospect Smart sitting posture correction garment has great advantages and practical value. It can expand the monitoring area, detailing and focusing on the areas of poor sitting posture, the development of electronic textiles makes smart sitting posture correction garment more comfortable, and it can have the dual function of passive and active posture correction, which can help to improve the poor sitting posture of human body more effectively. In the future, smart sitting posture correction garment should also be developed towards the following directions. ① Use of flexibility of electronic equipment. In the future, sensing elements and vibration feedback elements both can try to replace with intelligent textiles, so as to better integrate in the clothing. ② Enhanced accuracy of the system identification. Since the electrical signal collected by the textile sensor is affected by the sensor material, monitoring position and other factors, it is also necessary to standardize a criterion to obtain an accurate threshold classification for poor sitting posture. ③ Focusing of feedback mode. Multi-sensory feedback mode is the focus of future research, the future should be for different groups of people to take different feedback mode, and set up feedback mechanisms that can be adapted to different occasions. ④ Enhancement of human-computer interaction. The current clothing only plays the role of monitoring and feedback, but does not realize the real interaction. The future also needs to enhance human-computer interaction, guide the user to exercise. ⑤ The safety of the system clothing. Clothing not only needs to be considered for the safety of the use of electronic components, but also needs to protect the privacy and security of users. It is believed that smart sitting posture correction garment will have a good development prospect in the field of healthcare and health monitoring.

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    Rheological behavior of cotton pulp cellulose/protic ionic liquid solutions
    MA Kai, DENG Lulu, WANG Xuelin, SHI Guomin, ZOU Guanglong
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (05): 10-18.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221108101
    Abstract441)   HTML21)    PDF (4136KB)(75)       Save

    Objective Cellulose is one of the most abundant renewable natural polymers but cannot be effectively dissolved by traditional solvents owing to its highly ordered hydrogen-bond network structure and high crystallinity, which limits the further development and large-scale application of cellulose. Ionic liquids with special structures, due to their strong hydrogen-bond breaking ability, are widely used as a green and efficient solvent for natural polymer dissolution and processing. However, few studies are conducted on protic ionic liquid ([DBNH][Lev]) concerning the dissolution of cellulose and their solution properties. What's more levulinic acid derived from biomass resources endows green properties to [DBNH][Lev].

    Method Protic ionic liquid was used as solvent to achieve the efficient dissolution of cotton cellulose under mild conditions. The dissolution mechanism of cellulose in ionic liquid and the steady and dynamic rheological behavior of cellulose solution were systematically studied by using nuclear magnetic resonance and rheological techniques respectively. The influence of factors such as cellulose concentration, shear rate, and temperature on the rheological behavior of cellulose/[DBNH][Lev] solution was thoroughly investigated. The morphology and mechanical properties of generated films from cellulose/PILs solution were studied in view of their potential application.

    Results The rheological properties of cellulose are closely related to solvent category, cellulose concentration, cellulose molecular weight and experimental temperature. Firstly, it was identified that [DBNH][Lev] presented satisfactory dissolution ability to cellulose and had good solubility up to 5% to cellulose at 100 ℃. The ketone group in the Lev anion may provide a new hydrogen-bonding acceptor and donor in [DBNH][Lev] due to the keto-enol tautomerism, thus strengthening the interaction via hydrogen bonds between cellulose and [DBNH][Lev]. The steady-state rheological curves of cellulose/[DBNH][Lev] solutions with different mass concentrations at 25 ℃. For all case, a shear-thinning behavior is observed with increases in the shear rate and shear-thinning behavior becomes more remarkable when cellulose increases. Newtonian plateau phenomenon is observed when all samples were sheared at low shear rate. At the same shear rate, the apparent viscosity of cellulose solution gradually decreases with increasing temperature, which is consistent with classical polymer solutions. The power law coefficient n increases with the increasing concentration from 1.01 to 2.53 at 25 ℃. The turnover concentration from dilute to the semi-dilute unentangled regime defined as the overlap concentration (C*) was 0.83%. The viscosity-temperature dependence of solution was characterized by using the Arrhenius equation, the dissolution activation energy increases when cellulose increases. The cross-over point (gelation point) resulted in a shift to lower frequency when cellulose concentration increases at 25 ℃. It is found that both G' and G″ shift to higher frequency when the temperature decreases because more cellulose chains entangle together in low temperature at C-4 cellulose solution. Finally, it is also found that the generated films have satisfactory mechanical properties, indicating their practical application potential. The generation film at C-5 cellulose solution has the maximum tensile strength of 88.21 MPa and the elongation at breakup to 7.72%.

    Conclusion A green and low-cost biomass derived protic ionic liquid was applied to successfully enhance its ability to break cellulose hydrogen bonds and achieve effective dissolution in this research. It has been demonstrated that the keto-enol tautomerism in the levulinic acid anion participates in the hydrogen-bond interaction in the cellulose dissolution process. The trend of shear rate and apparent viscosity of cellulose solutions under different mass concentration conditions is consistent, showing the characteristics of pseudoplastic fluid shear thinning. The apparent viscosity of cellulose is related to cellulose concentration and temperature; The overlap concentration for transition from diluted to semi diluted state is 0.83%, and the empirical Cox-Merz rule is not applicable to cellulose/[DBNH][Lev] solutions due to the apparent viscosity curve cannot overlap well with the complex viscosity curve. Therefore, the obtained results in this research provide a basic insight into the rheological response of cellulose in ionic liquid environment, and provide guidance for the processing of cellulose (such as coating and spinning).

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    Preparation and electromagnetic shielding performance of MXene/carbon nanofiber membranes by electrospinning/electrophoretic deposition
    ZHU Xue, QIAN Xin, HAO Mengyuan, ZHANG Yonggang
    Journal of Textile Research    2025, 46 (01): 1-8.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20240201501
    Abstract429)   HTML44)    PDF (8195KB)(150)       Save

    Objective The widespread applications of electronic devices result in serious electromagnetic radiation pollution problems, and the development of efficient electromagnetic shielding materials is imminent. Carbon nanofiber (CNF) membranes prepared by electrospinning, as a type of carbon-based materials with light weight, large aspect ratio and corrosion resistance, have attracted extensive research attention. The MXene modified CNF membrane can improve the conductivity of the membrane material and enhance the electromagnetic shielding efficiency. However, the conventional in-situ spinning, and dipping methods exhibited low efficiency and uneven effect. Therefore, achieving efficient uniform modification remains a challenge for CNF-based electromagnetic shielding materials. This research proposes an electrophoretic deposition (EPD) method using CNF membrane as anode to complete MXene uniform load within a very short time.

    Method A thin layer negatively charged MXene was obtained by etching MAX with in-situ synthesis of hydrofluoric acid. A highly oriented polyacrylonitrile (PAN)-based nanofiber membrane was prepared by electrospinning technology. The cyclic dehydrogenation reaction of the polymer was completed by peroxidation treatment at 250 ℃, and the cross-linking and densification reactions were carried at 900 ℃ and 1 400 ℃. CNF with certain conductivity was obtained.

    Results In-situ synthesized hydrofluoric acid etching and stripping were employed to obtain layers of MXene with a clean and smooth surface. Zeta potential characterization demonstrated the negative charge on the lamella surface, providing a theoretical basis for the anodic electrodeposition method. The PAN-based nanofiber membrane was spun by electrospinning technology. After pre-oxidation and carbonization treatment, CNF membrane with high orientation was obtained. The CNF had amorphous graphite structure, which was the source of the conductivity of the membrane. The efficient combination of MXene and CNF was achieved by the EPD method. The CNF was fixed to the anode, and the negatively charged MXene was drawn to the surface of the CNF under the action of an electric current. With the increase of deposition voltage and time, the uniformity of lamellar coverage was improved. When the deposition voltage was 5 V and the deposition time was 10 min, the composite membrane showed the best morphology. The surface of the fiber was covered with a continuous layer of MXene, with the adjacent layers touching each other. The pores between the nanofibers in the membrane were filled with MXene, and the independent fiber membranes were connected through the MXene layer. With the increase of deposition voltage and time, the amount of MXene deposition was increased. However, high voltage (10 V) led to TiO2 on the surface of the composite membrane, and MXene oxidation degradation occurred. The surface deposition of MXene significantly improved the conductivity of the membrane material. Compared with the conductivity of the original PAN-CNF membrane that is 2 406 S/m, when the treatment conditions were 5 V and 10 min, the conductivity of the Mxene/CNF composite membrane reached 4 424 S/m, representing an increase by 83%. In terms of the electromagnetic shielding performance, the electromagnetic shielding performance of nanofiber membrane treated by electrodeposition MXene was improved compared with PAN-CNF membrane. It was found that electromagnetic shielding performance was positively correlated with the electrical conductivity, up to 25.96 dB and representing an increase by 112%. The shielding efficiency of the composite membrane in electromagnetic wave band of 8-12 GHz was 99.75%, indicating that only 0.25% electromagnetic wave could pass through the composite membrane, achieving a good shielding effect.

    Conclusion MXene and CNF were uniformly recombined efficiently by electrodeposition. The introduction of conductive MXene significantly improved the electromagnetic shielding performance of carbon-based nanofiber membranes. The excellent electromagnetic shielding performance of MXene/CNF composite membranes could be attributed to its abundant internal conductive paths, which led to polarization relaxation and numerous heterogeneous interfaces, which prolonged electromagnetic wave attenuation paths and enhanced multiple reflection and scattering. The high-efficiency electromagnetic shielding composite membrane is expected to be applied in the field of electromagnetic protection of wearable devices.

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    Research progress in three-dimensional garment virtual display technology
    CHENG Bilian, JIANG Gaoming, LI Bingxian
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (05): 248-257.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221106202
    Abstract428)   HTML16)    PDF (7975KB)(95)       Save

    Significance The virtual display tehnology of three-dimensional (3-D) clothing is utilized to simulate the clothing state and deformation phenomenon of different human bodies in different postures and various activities. It moves away from the conventional real-life fitting method and can display clothing statically or dynamically in a virtual environment. The wide application of 3-D garment virtual display in textile and garment CAD software can produce the simulation effect of flexible fabric more real, and help designers realize the design and development of visual textiles. The virtual display technology of 3-D clothing is applied to the online game and animation industry, which enables the clothing effect of virtual characters closer to reality. Under the environment of the rapid development of clothing e-commerce, the application of 3-D clothing virtual display technology in the field of clothing e-commerce will help users quickly choose the right model of clothing. This technology can significantly affect the effect of consumer purchase wishes and reduce the amount of returns, so as to improve the business efficiency and promote the commercial development of the clothing industry.

    Progress 3-D virtual clothing display involves the integration of technology in many disciplines, committed to produce realistic and dynamic display. By systematically introducing the 3-D human modeling technology, the development status of parametric human modeling and non-parametric human modeling is analyzed to provide a basis for the development of 3-D human modeling. The research process of clothing modeling is described in detail from three methods of geometric modeling, physical modeling and hybrid modeling in clothing modeling. The research and exploration of scholars at home and abroad for many years are analyzed, and the development process of 3-D virtual display technology from single static simulation to dynamic simulation with physical attributes is summarized. The advantages and disadvantages of the existing achievements of clothing simulation technology and clothing animation simulation technology are summarized. For any new human motion, a reliable deformation distribution prediction can be given to effectively adjust the fabric mesh. The prediction results of the multi-precision cloth model have high reliability and can be used for further dynamic adaptation of cloth mesh in animation.

    Conclusion and Prospect 3-D human body and clothing modeling are widely used in the fields of textile and garment CAD software, personalized entertainment, animation design and e-commerce. However, there are still some shortcomings such as high computational cost and insufficient simulation accuracy. Therefore, it is urgent to further develop 3-D human body modeling and virtual clothing simulation. Studying the 3-D virtual display of clothing will have deep theoretical value and practical application significance. This paper analyzes the parametric method of human body modeling and non-parametric method of human body modeling development present situation, elaborated the clothing modeling in the geometric modeling method, physical modeling method and hybrid modeling method of the research process, the development of 3-D virtual display technology has been developed from a single static simulation to the dynamic simulation of physical properties, static 3-D dressing model has the advantages of high simulation accuracy and good stability, dynamic clothing animation simulation can vividly show the overall effect of clothing on the human body, but it needs huge computational cost and memory reserves, simulation accuracy needs to be improved. Therefore, the modeling technology, interactive technology, machine learning and other related technologies involved in clothing dress simulation and clothing animation simulation still have great room for improvement and research value, which is worthy of further exploration and exploration. There are three main research trends and difficulties in the future research of 3-D virtual display technology: a) research on fast, low-cost and accurate 3-D human model reconstruction method, including 3-D posture and human geometry model; b) 3-D dress simulation, that is, quickly and stably try on clothing to different body shapes and postures; c) realistic dynamic try-on effects, including fast, low-cost human motion capture and efficient clothing animation simulation technology.

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    Employee efficiency prediction of garment production line based on machine learning
    JU Yu, WANG Zhaohui, LI Boyi, YE Qinwen
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (05): 183-192.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20230601001
    Abstract427)   HTML25)    PDF (4058KB)(61)       Save

    Objective The significant impact of variations in employee productivity on the balance of apparel production lines has prompted the need for a solution to address the shortfall in achieving targeted productivity levels under manually scheduled operations lacking historical data analysis support. This research aims to utilize machine learning models to predict actual employee efficiency, providing management with valuable insights for goal setting and decision-making to enhance production profitability and prevent erroneous decisions to some extent.

    Method In order to achieve efficiency prediction, this research conducted on-site surveys at factory A, gathering 526 historical production records from 13 orders. Through feature engineering, 15 initial prediction datasets were constructed, and efficiency levels were categorized using quantile division. Subsequently, considering the production data characteristics, RandomForest regression and classification models were selected for efficiency prediction. In order to validate the predictive performance of the model, it was compared with eight other models. Pearson and Spearman correlation coefficient analyses were performed to investigate the impact of variables on the model predictions. Finally, recursive feature elimination was employed to optimize the model by selecting the optimal feature subset from the initial feature set for maximum predictive performance.

    Results Using a random split function, 20% of the prediction dataset was set aside for validation, while the remaining 80% was divided into training and testing sets for ten-fold cross-validation. R2 and RMSE were chosen as regression metrics, and F1 score was selected as the classification metric. The RandomForest regression model demonstrated the optimal predictive performance, showing the smallest range of fit and root mean square error in ten-fold cross-validation, with a fitting goodness value of 0.826 and an RMSE value of 0.126. In the classification task, the random forest model exhibited higher predictive performance compared to most models, with a balanced F1 score of 0.809 in the validation set, slightly lower than the gradient boosting classification model. Prior to model optimization, correlation coefficient and feature importance analyses revealed the crucial role of the auxiliary variable "annual efficiency" in predictions. Based on variable analysis, recursive feature elimination was employed to select the optimal feature parameter set for both the RandomForest regression and classification models. In the regression task, the RandomForest model achieved the optimal parameter combination with eight features, yielding a validation set R2 value of 0.836. In the classification task, the growth curve of the random forest model's predictive performance was relatively gradual, using nine features to form the optimal parameter combination, resulting in a validation F1 score of 0.823. In the optimization results, setting the threshold for the difference between RandomForestRegressor predictions and actual results to 30% identified only three outliers, accounting for 3.16% of the data. For the RandomForestClassifier model, the classification results indicated a very low recall rate for sample 3, contributing to the relatively lower F1 score.

    Conclusion Through comparative experiments on predictive performance, the RandomForest model was selected as the optimal optimization model. Recursive feature elimination was chosen for model optimization based on the analysis of variable impacts on efficiency prediction. The results demonstrate that machine learning can accurately predict employee efficiency. Due to limitations imposed by the experimental factory, parameter collection was restricted. Future efficiency prediction research could consider adding more feature parameters to enhance model generalization. Additionally, considering the influence of time series, recurrent neural networks (RNNs) could be employed for modeling production efficiency prediction. In the future, we will continue to optimize this predictive model and apply it to the scheduling and arrangement of actual apparel assembly line workers.

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    Preparation and properties of chitosan micro-nanofiber composite antibacterial air filter material
    CHEN Jinmiao, LI Jiwei, CHEN Meng, NING Xin, CUI Aihua, WANG Na
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (05): 19-26.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221003701
    Abstract427)   HTML61)    PDF (7640KB)(141)       Save

    Objective In recent years, the rapid development of the economy has been accompanied by increased air pollution, leading to frequent hazy weather conditions. Consequently, particulate matter has emerged as the primary pollutant in outdoor air pollution in our country, posing serious health risks to people. Electrospun nanofiber membranes show promise in air filtration due to their small diameter, three-dimensional porous structure, and large surface area. However, the low strength of these nanofiber membranes limits their large-scale industrial application. In this study, we employ chitosan, known for its antibacterial, biodegradable, and biocompatible properties, to prepare an environmentally friendly antibacterial air filter.

    Methods The raw materials used were chitosan spunlaced nonwovens (CS), chitosan (CHI), and polyethylene oxide (PEO). By electrospinning technology, a layer of chitosan/polyethylene oxide (CHI/PEO) nanofibers membrane was electrospun on the surface of CS, and then a composite air filter (CHI/PEO-CS) was obtained. Then, the micro-morphology, fiber diameter, pore size distribution, and air permeability of CHI/PEO nanofiber membranes with different PEO concentrations were measured. Finally, the antibacterial properties of the CHI/PEO-CS composite membrane were studied by testing the filtration performance of the composite membrane and selecting the appropriate PEO concentration.

    Results The average fiber diameter of CHI/PEO fibrous membranes gradually extends from 111 nm to 198 nm with incensing the concentration of PEO. And the average fiber diameter of the CS spunlaced nonwoven fabric is relatively large and about 11.5 μm. With the combination of CHI/PEO nanofibers and CS spunlaced nonwoven fabric, an air filtration membrane was constructed, while the electron microscopy images demonstrate a good adherence between CHI/PEO nanofibers and the CS substrate. The combination of CHI/PEO with CS is solely a physical composite, indicating that there are no chemical reactions between the components. When the concentration of PEO varies between 0.3% and 0.6%, the strength of CHI/PEO-CS remains relatively constant, indicating that the electrospun CHI/PEO nanofibers exert a minimal impact on the mechanical strength of the spunlaced nonwoven fabric. This observation suggests that CS significantly enhances the mechanical properties of CHI/PEO-CS.The pore size distribution of the CHI/PEO-CS composite membrane shows two distinct peaks. The first peak corresponds to the CHI/PEO fiber membrane, while the second represents CS, and the change in pore size follows the trend in fiber diameter. With the increase of PEO concentration, the air permeability was improved accordingly, although the filtration efficiency initially increases and then decreases. Based on these results, we chose a PEO concentration of 0.45% with the highest quality factor for further study. At this concentration, the filtration efficiency of CHI/PEO-CS for 300 nm NaCl aerosol particles significantly increased from 1.6% (in original CS) to 99.56%, with a pressure drop of 63 Pa. Furthermore, after multiple cycles and prolonged testing, the filtration performance of CHI/PEO-CS consistently remained above 99%. Additionally, the interception ratios for E.coli and S.aureus were 99.97% and 99.88%, respectively, significantly surpassing that of pure CS, providing enhanced protection in practical applications.

    Conclusion In order to prepare a kind of environmentally friendly antibacterial air filtration material, a layer of chitosan/polyethylene oxide (CHI/PEO) nanofibers membrane was electrospun on the surface of chitosan spunlaced nonwovens (CS), it was found that the CHI/PEO-CS composite membrane with PEO concentration of 0.45% had better comprehensive properties, including fiber morphology, air permeability (246.2 mm/s), and mechanical properties (2.26 MPa), excellent antibacterial performance (interception ratio >99.88%), high filtration efficiency (99.56%) and lower pressure drop (63 Pa). Therefore, a kind of composite filter material composed entirely of chitosan, was successfully prepared which has both excellent strength of micro-fiber good filtration performance of nano-fiber, and good antibacterial performance. This work provides a new idea for the research and development of functional air filtration materials.

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    Advances in smart textiles oriented to personalized healthcare
    DONG Kai, LÜ Tianmei, SHENG Feifan, PENG Xiao
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (01): 240-249.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221106002
    Abstract425)   HTML47)    PDF (3892KB)(144)       Save

    Significance With the increasing prevalence of infectious diseases and the growing trend of population aging, the conventional hospital and the clinic-centered public health system lack the abilities for remote real-time monitoring, diagnosis and treatment, making it more difficult to achieve the monitoring of sustained vital signs and the implementation of long-term treatment programs. On the basis of the rapid development of wearable electronic devices, the Internet of Things, and artificial intelligence, the future healthcare model will transform from a therapeutic, centralized, passive, and even one-size-fits-all treatment to a new paradigm of proactive, preventive, personalized, customized and intelligent way. Therefore, various wearable signs and posture monitoring equipment, intelligent diagnostic and therapeutic tools, and highly integrated physiological health assessment systems are being developed, which will profoundly change the medical care and people's life in the future society.

    Progress As a combination product of advanced functional or intelligent attributes with conventional wearable textile materials, smart textiles are gradually emerging because of their abilities to collect, process, transmit, and display information, which can serve as a good medium for human being to interact with the outside world. In addition, smart textiles can be a powerful tool to generate and store energy, sense and respond to multiple external stimuli (such as mechanical, thermal, optical, chemical, radiant, magnetic or acoustic stimul, and even communicate with users, which will attract considerable research interest and enrich a wide range of application areas ranging from wearable power sources, luminescent visualization, athletic sports, to personal health management and information transmission and communication. In term of personized healthcare, smart textiles can provide insight into a person's physiological state, and directly conduct on-site disease monitoring and intervention, thus reducing the healthcare burden and improving treatment results. According to their basic working mechanisms or electrical response modes, smart textiles can be divided into seven categories, including piezoelectric effect, piezoresistive effect, capacitive effect, triboelectric effect, thermoelectric effect, optical fiber based effect, electrochemical effect, and etc. Each mode has its own advantages and disadvantages, which need to weighed based on the actual application scenarios and performance requirements. For example, based on the coupling effect of triboelectrification and electrostatic induction, a variety of smart textiles based on triboelectric effect are developed, which have two main functions of autonomous power supplying and active self-powered sensing. uwing to the outstanding advantages of simple structure design, wide range of material selection, and high energy conversion efficiency at low frequencies, the triboelectric-based smart textiles have attracted extensive attention both from academia and industry, which have been widely studied in the applications of emergency self-charging clothes, multifunctional flexible sensors, personalized healthcare devices, human-computer interaction interfaces and artificial intelligence.

    Conclusion and Prospect Aiming at the application of smart textiles in personalized healthcare, their recent research process in sleep respiration monitoring, electromyography monitoring, tactile sensing, personalized treatment, and intelligent diagnosis are mainly introduced. In each aspect, typical examples are given to illustrate the application of smart textiles in personalized healthcare. In the end, the future development trend and potential challenges of smart textiles in personalized healthcare are introduced. There is no doubt that with the integration of more intelligent technologies and the urgent needs of future medical market, smart textiles will be rapidly developed in personalized healthcare, and gradually form mature products. Meanwhile, it is also worth noting that the application of smart textiles in the field of personalized healthcare also faces many challenges, especially in the aspects of circuit connection reliability, long-time machine washability, affinity to human skin, large-scale fabrication and integration, and so on.

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    Research progress in biomass-based carbon aerogels in energy storage device
    GAO Zhihao, NING Xin, MING Jinfa
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (06): 210-218.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221204802
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    Significance With the increasing scarcity of oil, coal and other resources, the development of green and efficient energy storage materials has gradually become the focus of relevant research. Carbon aerogels have been recognized as one of the most promising candidate for energy storage materials due to its high porosity, low density, good electrical conductivity and high temperature resistance. Biomass materials are the most cost-effective, environmentally friendly and sustainable precursors for fabricating carbon aerogels. The preparation of biomass-based carbon aerogel and its application in the field of energy storage have attracted much research attention in the recent years. The release of China's "carbon peak and carbon neutralization" strategy further promotes its research and application. To foster the development of biomass-based carbon aerogels, a systematically overview on biomass-based carbon aerogels for energy storage devices was carried.

    Progress Based on the differences in raw material form, the preparation methods of biomass-based carbon aerogel are summarized as gel carbonization, hydrothermal carbonization and direct carbonization. Three preparation methods including the technological process, application range and advantages/disadvantages are compared and analyzed. At present, there are biomass-based carbon aerogels which are widely used, namely unmodified pure biomass-based carbon aerogels and composite biomass-based carbon aerogels modified by metal doping and heteroatom doping. This work summarizes the latest research progress in energy storage devices such as supercapacitors and lithium-ion batteries. Material design and microstructure are the main factors affecting the electrochemical performance of biomass-based carbon aerogel. Suitable doping and uniform nanostructure will help to improve its comprehensive performance. The energy storage device using this biomass-based carbon aerogel as the electrode shows superior rate capability and cycling performance during the test. In addition, relevant studies have shown that biomass-based carbon aerogels can also be used as electrodes for fuel cells, zinc-air batteries, and lithium-sulfur batteries. Some researchers attempted to use it to modify the battery separator and have achieved certain results.

    Conclusion and Prospect As a new type of functional aerogel, biomass-based carbon aerogels possess excellent properties of aerogel (high specific surface area, high porosity and low density), carbon materials (heat resistance and electrical conductivity) and biomass materials (economical and biodegradable). Based on these advantages, biomass-based carbon aerogel has been preliminarily applied in supercapacitors and some secondary batteries. In recent years, it has becomes one of the hotspot research fields in energy storage materials. Innovative research methods and theories are constantly emerging around the functional preparation, material characterization and product application of biomass-based carbon aerogels. However, there are still some uncertainties and challenges in the process of industrial production and application of biomass-based carbon aerogels. Future research can be focussed on the following aspects. ① Development of new biomass precursors with more attention to be paided to the utilization rate of biomass materials and the impact of raw materials on the structure and properties of carbon aerogel. ② Innovation and improvement of the preparation process of biomass-based carbon aerogels, aiming for large-scale production of carbon aerogels with uniform structure and excellent performance on the basis of reducing cost and energy consumption. ③ Replacement of man-made materials with natural renewable materials (such as silk fibroin extracted from cocoon silk), in forming the combination with biomass-based carbon aerogel, so as to improve the overall environmental protection of energy storage devices. ④ Further exploration into the influence mechanism of production process including composite process on biomass-based carbon aerogels to achieve controllable optimization of the microstructure and comprehensive properties of carbon aerogels so as to expand application into more prospective emerging material fields.

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    Review on preparation of electrospun chitosan-based nanofibers and their application in water treatment
    FENG Ying, YU Hanzhe, ZHANG Hong, LI Kexin, MA Biao, DONG Xin, ZHANG Jianwei
    Journal of Textile Research    2024, 45 (05): 218-227.   DOI: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221203002
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    Significance Chitosan is a natural polymeric alkaline polysaccharide derived from a wide range of sources, and its molecular chain is rich of reactive groups, which can be used as adsorbent in the field of water treatment. However, conventional chitosan adsorbents have the disadvantages of small specific surface area, poor stability and difficulties in secondary recovery, resulting in low adsorption rate and poor economic efficiency, which seriously limits the industrial applications. Chitosan nanofibers are functional biomass regeneration fibers with large specific surface area, high porosity, flexible surface function and certain strength prepared by a series of spinning methods with chitosan as the main component, and fibrillation of chitosan can significantly eliminate the defects in the conventional chitosan adsorbents. Fibers can be formed by various techniques such as electrostatic spinning, wet spinning and chemical vapor deposition spinning, among which electrostatic spinning is the most common method for preparing chitosan-based nanofibers with uniform morphology. This paper presents a review of domestic and international studies on the preparation of chitosan-based nanofibers using electrostatic spinning technology, aiming to provide guidance for improving the spinnability of chitosan and the physical morphology and mechanical properties of chitosan-based nanofibers.

    Progress In order to enhance the spinnability of chitosan and improve the physical morphology and chemical properties of chitosan-based nanofibers, researchers have carried out a lot of studies in the aspect of preparing chitosan nanofibers using electrostatic spinning technology, and found that the parameters of spinning liquid and process parameters of electrostatic spinning device are the important factors determining the properties of nanofibers. First of all, only the spinning solution with good viscosity and conductivity can make chitosan nanofibers with uniform diameter and good mechanical properties by electrostatic spinning technology. In recent years, researchers have prepared ideal spinning solution by modifying chitosan through cross-linking, grafting and derivatization, but this still falls short of the standard for industrial application. Researchers have used natural/synthetic polymers to further enhance the viscosity and conductivity of the spinning solution, but synthetic polymers such as polylactic acid, polycaprolactone, polyurethane and other synthetic polymers have a certain degree of toxicity leading to the final production of fibers with a limited range of applications, while natural polymers such as cellulose, collagen and so on, have become a hotspot of the research on the preparation of excellent chitosan spinning solution in recent years because of their non-toxic and non-hazardous advantages. Secondly, in addition to the preparation of spinning solution with good viscosity and conductivity, suitable process parameters are also important prerequisites for the preparation of excellent chitosan nanofibers. For example, the appropriate voltage value in the electrostatic spinning process is an important guarantee to ensure that the fibers have good morphology and excellent performance, and it is found that the fiber diameter decreases with the increase of voltage, but the fiber diameter starts to increase when the voltage is higher than the critical range. Finally, this paper summarizes the effectiveness of chitosan-based nanofibers as adsorbents for the treatment of heavy metal ions such as Ni2+, Cu2+, Cr6+ and U6+ and dyes such as Congo Red, methylene blue and carmine in wastewater, and finds that the resulting fibers can be used for the simultaneous adsorption of a variety of heavy metal ions, anionic and cationic dyes as the spinning technology improves, and elucidates the repetitive regeneration properties of chitosan-based nanofibers in the adsorption of different pollutants.

    Conclusion and Prospect Chitosan-based nanofiber is a new type of adsorbent material with the advantages of easy separation, large specific surface area and flexible surface function, which can effectively improve the economic efficiency and avoid secondary pollution, and it is of great significance to help the early realization of "double carbon". Chitosan fibrillation based on electrostatic spinning technology can be divided into two steps: preparing of spinning solution and spinning formation. The preparation of spinning solution by dissolving chitosan in acid is the first step to enable chitosan spinnable, and changes in parameters such as spinning solution, process and environment during spinning formation ultimately change fiber morphology by affecting the ease of jet stretching. In addition, modification methods such as cross-linking, graft copolymerization, derivatization and blending can not only improve the spinnability of chitosan, but also enhance the acid resistance, thermal stability, antibacterial properties and adsorption of chitosan-based nanofibers. In the co-blending spinning process, the electrostatic interaction between chitosan and natural/synthetic polymers and the entanglement resulting from the reaction of different groups can improve the spinnability of chitosan. The search for new green, non-toxic and post-treatment-free solvents in the preparation of spinning solution, the search for new natural/synthetic polymers as co-spinning agents for improving chitosan spinnability during spinning and forming, and the use of multi-template molecular imprinting technology to enhance the adsorption for contaminants are the future trends of chitosan-based nanofibers.

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