纺织学报 ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (02): 64-68.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20190305805

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

立体几何褶皱织物的成型与织造

孙婷, 吕智宁, 李艳清, 祝成炎, 田伟()   

  1. 浙江理工大学 先进纺织材料与制备技术教育部重点实验室, 浙江 杭州 310018
  • 收稿日期:2019-03-19 修回日期:2019-08-25 出版日期:2020-02-15 发布日期:2020-02-21
  • 通讯作者: 田伟
  • 作者简介:孙婷(1995—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为现代纺织技术及新产品研究。

Molding principle and weaving of three-dimensional geometric pleated fabric

SUN Ting, LÜ Zhining, LI Yanqing, ZHU Chengyan, TIAN Wei()   

  1. Key Laboratory for Advanced Textile Materials and Manufacturing Technology, Ministry of Education, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
  • Received:2019-03-19 Revised:2019-08-25 Online:2020-02-15 Published:2020-02-21
  • Contact: TIAN Wei

摘要:

为拓宽立体几何褶皱织物的设计思路,设计具有立体几何效果的褶皱织物,对立体几何褶皱织物的成型原理进行了研究和探讨。提出了在二维织物面料铺设折叠线,形成一定规律的几何图案,并将几何图案按折叠线划分成上凸折叠区、下凹折叠区及非折叠区,在不同折叠区填充不同组织并以弹性纱和非弹性纱交替引纬,以此作为设计立体几何褶皱织物的基础。结果显示:设计好几何图案,选择不同的纬二重组织填充不同折叠区域,选用蚕丝为经纱、涤纶低弹丝与氨纶丝包覆的弹力丝与涤纶全拉丝为纬纱进行织造,所得的织物能形成具有明显立体几何形状的褶皱。

关键词: 折叠线, 立体几何褶皱图案, 褶皱织物, 织物设计

Abstract:

In order to widen the design idea of three-dimensional geometric pleated fabrics, and design pleated fabrics with three-dimensional geometric effects, the forming principle of the three-dimensional geometric pleated fabrics was studied and discussed. The design started from drawing folding lines in a two-dimensional fabric, forming the geometric pattern of a certain regularity, and the geometric patterns were classified into convex fold areas and concave fold areas by the fold line. Different weaves were used in different folded areas, and elastic and inelastic yarns were used for alternate weft insertion. This procedure was used as the base design for three-dimensional geometric fold fabrics. The results show that on the basis of the designed geometric pattern, different weft backed weaves can be used to construct different folded areas, and in a particular case, silk is employed as the warp, polyester and spandex-coated elastic yarn and non-elastic polyester are selected as the weft for weaving the fabric. Such woven fabrics demonstrate that obvious three-dimensional geometric shapes can be created.

Key words: fold line, three-dimensional geometric pleat pattern, pleated fabric, fabric design

中图分类号: 

  • TS105.1

图1

无横向折叠区的褶皱织物图案"

图2

织物纬向褶皱成型示意图"

图3

有横向折叠区的褶皱织物图案"

图4

织物经向褶皱成型示意图"

图5

立体几何褶皱织物图案设计"

图6

无横向折叠区的褶皱织物组织图"

图7

织物纹样局部放大图"

图8

有横向折叠区的褶皱织物组织图"

表1

织物规格参数"

经纱原料 蚕丝,3.11 tex
纬纱原料 甲纬: 涤纶(FDY),8.33 tex(黑色)
乙纬:涤纶(DTY),16.67 tex+氨纶,2.22 tex(白色)
投纬比 甲纬∶乙纬=1∶1
经密 40 根/cm
纬密 60 根/cm
筘号 50
筘齿穿入数 4
纹针数 2 400
储纬器 2
织造机械 剑杆织机+2720 针电子提花机

图9

立体几何褶皱织物实物图"

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