纺织学报 ›› 2007, Vol. 28 ›› Issue (5): 100-103.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

影响西装翻领服帖度的样板因素

周莉;张翎;李彦云   

  1. School of Textile and Clothing;Southwest University;Chongqing 400716;China
  • 收稿日期:2006-09-12 修回日期:2006-11-22 出版日期:2007-05-15 发布日期:2007-05-15

Pattern factors affecting the lapel fitness of suits

ZHOU Li;ZHANG Ling;LI Yanyun   

  1. School of Textile and Clothing;Southwest University;Chongqing 400716;China
  • Received:2006-09-12 Revised:2006-11-22 Online:2007-05-15 Published:2007-05-15

摘要: This paper is devoted to researching on the turndown lapel collar of suits.The AT-style pattern technology and high end men′s suit manufacture craft are adopted to investigate the pattern factors affecting the lapel fitness of suits,the rising quantity of under line of the collar stand through the experiments of fitting the mannequin′s neck to lapel.Analytical comparison of the lapel fitness is performed in terms of front neck and back neck,etc.Data for evaluation of lapel fitness is collected with the back neck point as starting point,the rising quantity as X axis,and the distance from the turn-over line to the central line of back neck as Y axis.The study showed that a non-linear quantitative relationship exists between the rising quantity of under line and the fitness.

Abstract:

This paper is devoted to researching on the turndown lapel collar of suits.The AT-style pattern technology and high end men′s suit manufacture craft are adopted to investigate the pattern factors affecting the lapel fitness of suits,the rising quantity of under line of the collar stand through the experiments of fitting the mannequin′s neck to lapel.Analytical comparison of the lapel fitness is performed in terms of front neck and back neck,etc.Data for evaluation of lapel fitness is collected with the back neck point as starting point,the rising quantity as X axis,and the distance from the turn-over line to the central line of back neck as Y axis.The study showed that a non-linear quantitative relationship exists between the rising quantity of under line and the fitness.

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