纺织学报 ›› 2006, Vol. 27 ›› Issue (6): 111-115.

• 综合述评 • 上一篇    下一篇

唐代紫服考

曹喆;孙晔   

  1. 南通大学纺织服装学院 江苏南通226007
  • 收稿日期:2005-09-15 修回日期:2006-01-09 出版日期:2006-06-15 发布日期:2006-06-15

Study on purple clothing in the Tang Dynasty

CAO Zhe;SUN Ye   

  1. School of Textile and Apparel;Nantong University;Nantong;Jiangsu 226007;China
  • Received:2005-09-15 Revised:2006-01-09 Online:2006-06-15 Published:2006-06-15

摘要: 紫色是唐代高等级官员才可使用的色彩,统治阶级对紫色的使用有着严格的规定,考证了唐代的紫服制度。自唐代开始有了独特的紫、绯衣赏赐制度,将紫色和绯色的服装赏给有功的官员。后赏赐的范围越来越大,没有资格穿紫服的人也穿上了紫服,在唐代形成了所谓的借服制度。虽然唐代对色彩使用作了等级森严的规定,但下层阶级往往会越级使用服色,并屡禁不止。还探讨了唐代紫色的色彩倾向,认为唐代官服使用的紫色应该是深青紫。

Abstract: Purple clothing was only for high class officials in the Tang Dynasty. The strict regulations of dressing purple were enacted by the governor.The article made a discussion on the regulations of dressing purple in the Tang Dynasty.The emperor awarded purple or crimson clothing to the ministers or subordinates who had performed meritorious service,this was a particular regulation from the Tang Dynasty.Later,the scope of awarding became wider and wider,and some who were not qualified also put on purple clothing.This was so called borrowing color.Though there was strict regulation on dressing color,a lot of people violated it.Even forbiddances put forward by the emperor could not stop the violations.The article also discussed how the purple looked like in the Tang Dynasty, and argued that the purple might be dark-blue-purple.

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