关键词: 袖窿, 结构配置, 作用力, 男西服

Abstract: In mans garments, suit is the most major style. The armhole structure is one of the most complicated parts for mans jackets. Under different structures, the armhole shapes show quite a lot variation. The shape form patterns also have a direct impact on snugness of fit and moulding in shoulder and sleeve parts. The project study aims to analyze different structural configurations and principles of deformation under different structural configurations. This study has partial experiments on just making armhole part, then measures it to collect the data. It sets up the mechanical model and theoretically discusses inner stress forms caused by armhole deforming and calculates the intensity which armhole can bear. Finally the study proposes a best configuration scheme, which can achieve not only graceful outlines of shoulder and sleeve parts but snugness of fit. This study provides the theoretical guide for standardized production of man’s suits.

Key words: armhole, structural configuration, acting force, mans suits