纺织学报 ›› 2010, Vol. 31 ›› Issue (3): 104-110.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

礼教文化视野下的近代齐鲁服饰文化变迁

亓延;范雪荣;崔荣荣   

  1. 江南大学纺织服装学院
  • 收稿日期:2009-08-28 修回日期:2009-10-30 出版日期:2010-03-15 发布日期:2010-03-15
  • 通讯作者: 范雪荣

Transition of modern Qilu folk costume culture under influence of confucianism cultural

Qi Yan;FAN Xuerong;CUI Rongrong   

  1. College of Textiles and Clothing, Jiangnan University
  • Received:2009-08-28 Revised:2009-10-30 Online:2010-03-15 Published:2010-03-15
  • Contact: FAN Xuerong

摘要:

礼教文化深深影响着中国人的价值观、思维方式、政治理念和社会秩序的建构。传统服饰受礼教文化的制约明显,使得传统着装成为区分等级、地位和身份的标志。通过对近代齐鲁民间服饰着装中等级观念、审美意识以及情感诠释3个方面的研究,结合相关文献及对江南大学民间服饰传习馆传世实物的分析,阐述了礼教文化影响下的近代齐鲁服饰文化是一个由“顺受”至“逆反”发生流变的过程。在对“顺受”与“逆反”各自现象分析的基础上,指出近代齐鲁服饰文化之所以产生由“顺受”至“逆反”流变的原因是社会形态的改变与历史的变革,政府《服制通令》的颁布及西式教育的推广。这对进一步研究儒家文化、中国服饰文化和齐鲁民俗文化起到一定的补充和实证作用。

Abstract:

In China people’s values, way of thinking, political conviction and social order are deeply influenced by confucianism culture. Traditional costumes are so obviously restricted by confucianism culture that they have become a distinctive mark of grade, status and identity. According to the study of the hierarchy, aesthetic and interpretation of folk emotion in the Qilu folk costumes culture and the analysis of objects in the Folk Costumes Museum of Jiangnan University, this paper elaborates that Chinese costume culture is a process from〝compliance〞 to 〝antagonism〞 under the influence of confucianism culture. Based on the analysis of 〝compliance〞 and 〝antagonism〞 phenomenon respectively, the reason of Chinese costume culture from 〝compliance〞 to 〝antagonism〞 is that the changes of the social formation and history, the Promulgation of the Dress Orders of government as well as promotion of western-style education. This research plays a certain role in providing complements and substantial evidances for further study of confucianism culture, Chinese clothing culture and Qilu folk culture.

中图分类号: 

  • TS941.12
[1] 邢乐 梁惠娥 刘传兰. 中式服装消费意向的影响因素[J]. 纺织学报, 2017, 38(03): 155-161.
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