纺织学报 ›› 2013, Vol. 34 ›› Issue (6): 93-97.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

近代改良旗袍造型中的西方元素

陈研 张竞琼   

  1.  江南大学纺织服装学院
  • 收稿日期:2012-07-02 修回日期:2013-02-04 出版日期:2013-06-15 发布日期:2013-06-19
  • 通讯作者: 张竞琼 E-mail:j.q.chang@126.com
  • 基金资助:

    教育部人文社会科学规划项目;江苏省社会科学基金资助项目

Western elements in molding of modern modified cheongsam

  • Received:2012-07-02 Revised:2013-02-04 Online:2013-06-15 Published:2013-06-19
  • Supported by:

    Social science fund project in jiangsu province

摘要:   本文以上海纺织博物馆和江南大学民间服饰传习馆馆藏旗袍实物为研究对象,对近代改良旗袍的基本形制进行了论述,并将近代改良旗袍按造型形制与细部结构细分为“基本型”和“摩登型”。又通过对馆藏“摩登型”改良旗袍的基本形制、结构造型与细节设计的分析,指出近代改良旗袍是吸收西方外来服装造型方法的结果。具体是通过收省、分割、装袖等西式造型方法,实现了在外轮廓造型上由传统的“A”向“H”型再向西式的“X”型的转变。再通过采用了垫肩、拉链等西式服装辅料,辅佐主体结构实现了由离体到紧体、由平面到曲面的转变,说明了近代改良旗袍是中西方服饰文化不断的碰撞与融合的产物。

关键词: 近代, 改良旗袍, 形制, 西方元素, 馆藏旗袍

Abstract: This paper takes Shanghai textile museum and jiangnan university's ChuanXiGuan Chinese dress as the research object, discussed the basic shape of the modern Chinese dress , and then by the modern Chinese dress modelling structure and detail breakdown structure for "basic" and "modern" type.And through the collection "fashionable" type improved the basic form, structure qipao modelling and detail design analysis, and points out that the modern Chinese dress is improved to western foreign clothing modelling method results. Specific it is through the western provinces, division, modelling such as cut sleeve method, has realized the outer profile on modelling from the traditional "A" to "H" type again to western-style "X" type of change. By the use of the shoulder pads, zipper, western-style clothing accessories, conspicuous clothing three-dimensional effect, finally finish from the body to tighten body, from the plane of the surface to change,show the modern chinese dress is the product of chinese and western culture collision and fusion.

Key words: modern, modified cheongsam, molding and workmanship, western element, cheongsam stored in museum

中图分类号: 

  • TS 941.12
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