关键词: 翻领松度, 驳折领, 数学模型, 立体切展, 回归分析

Abstract: Lapel collar chiefly consists of collar band, lapel, collar edge line, lap allowance, initial point of lapel roll line, final point of lapel roll line and so on. All these elements influence each other, and jointly influence the shape of lapel. Among these influential factors, lapel tolerance os one of the most important parameters in lapel collar construction. For this reason, based on the basic pattern of Japanese culture style women dress, lapel collars are drawn by direct drawing method, varying the label width and collar band width. After selecting different lap allowances, top-stitching of lapel outer edge and the final point of lapel roll line on the mannequin, the appropriate latel tolerance is determinde by cutting expansion method. The sample is removed from the mannequin and the numerical value of the lapel toleerances (a total of 200 samples ) measured, and relevance analysis, regression analysis, etc. are preformed by means of SPSS statistics software. A mathematical model of lapel collar tolerance for construction design is established. This research provides a reference for template-making of lapel by the professional technical personnel of costume, so as to facilitate the need of intelligent CAD pattern design.

Key words: lapel tolerance, lapel collar, math ematical model, draping and cutting, regression analysis