关键词: 竹衣, 马甲, 服装结构, 编制, 工艺特征

Abstract:

In order to study the structure and quality of different bamboo coats and summarize the specifications and special skills, comparative study on different shapes and braid process features of bamboo coats has been made. The study based on 15 different sample bamboo coats and vests, which were preserved by domestic and abroad museums and private collectors such as the folk Costume Museum of Jiangnan University. These samples were dated from the Qing Dynasty to the Republic of China. Moreover, the details, compositions, similarities and differences of bamboo coats were deeply discussed. Furthermore, based on the special structure, braid organization and performance of bamboo coats, the three - dimensional structure, process skill and structural parameters of different parts of bamboo coats were analyzed. The results showed that, the bamboo beads installed-piping design of the bamboo coat is derived from the treasure of the material, which has been found via the simulation of the overall shape of the bamboo coats through the two - dimensional plane structure; and the differences of selected samples existed due to the variation of the wearer’s gender, figure and stature.

Key words: bamboo coat, vest, garment structure, braiding, process feature