应用灰色聚类方法评价特种动物纤维综合物理性能

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20171105306

纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (01): 26-31.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20171105306

应用灰色聚类方法评价特种动物纤维综合物理性能

邢丽娟¹, 刘新金¹(), 苏旭中¹, 曹秀明²

1.生态纺织教育部重点实验室(江南大学), 江苏无锡 214122
2.江苏阳光股份有限公司, 江苏江阴 214426

收稿日期:2017-11-28 修回日期:2018-09-14 出版日期:2019-01-15 发布日期:2019-01-18
通讯作者: 刘新金
作者简介:邢丽娟(1990—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为牦牛绒产品开发。
基金资助:
江苏省产学研项目(BY2016022-27);江苏省先进纺织工程技术中心基金项目(XJFZ/2016/4);纺织服装产业河南省协同创新项目(hnfx14002);江阴市科技成果转化项目(JYKJ3210);江苏省科技副总项目(FZ20180497)

Evaluation on comprehesive physical properties of special animal fibers based on gray clustering

XING Lijuan¹, LIU Xinjin¹(), SU Xuzhong¹, CAO Xiuming²

1. Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles (Jiangnan University), Ministry of Education, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
2. Jiangsu Sunshine Group Co., Ltd., Jiangyin, Jiangsu 214426, China

Received:2017-11-28 Revised:2018-09-14 Online:2019-01-15 Published:2019-01-18
Contact: LIU Xinjin

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为更好地开发特种动物纤维制品,以骆驼绒、山羊绒及牦牛绒为研究对象,在相同环境下分别对9种动物纤维的长度、细度、强力、卷曲性能及摩擦性能进行测试,利用灰色聚类分析评价特种动物纤维的综合物理性能。以白山羊绒、黄骆驼绒和黑牦牛绒为原料,采用四罗拉网格圈集聚纺分别纺制线密度为14.29 tex 和20.83 tex纱线,并进行性能测试和对比分析,进一步验证灰色聚类方法评价特种动物纤维综合物理性能的结果。结果表明:白山羊绒、驼绒具有较好的物理性能,白羊羔绒次之,紫山羊绒、青牦牛绒、黑牦牛绒、青山羊绒和脱色牦牛绒的物理性能最差;采用四罗拉网格圈紧密纺纺制不同线密度的纱线,白山羊绒纱线的整体性能最好,黄骆驼绒纱线次之,黑牦牛绒纱线最差,与灰色聚类方法所评价的纤维综合物理性能一致。

关键词: 骆驼绒, 羊绒, 牦牛绒, 物理性能, 灰色聚类分析

Abstract:

In order to explore the comprehensive physical properties of special animal fibers, the length, fineness, strength, curl and friction of nine kinds of animal fibers were tested in the same environment with the camel hair, the cashmere and the yakwool as the research objects. The gray clustering analysis method was used to evaluate the comprehensive physical properties of special animal fibers. The white cashmere, yellow camel hair and black yakwool were selected, and the properties of 14.29 tex and 20.83 tex yarns were spun by four-rollers compact spinning with lattice apron and comparative analysis. The results showed that white cashmere and camel hair have the best physical properties. The physical properties of white cashmere are the second; and the purple cashmere, blue yakwool, black yakwool, blue cashmere and bleached yakwool are the worst. In the different thickness of yarns spun by four-rollers compact spinning, the overall performance of white cashmere yarns is the best, the yellow camel hair is the second, and the black yakwool are the worst. The results are consistent with the comprehensive physical properties of the fibers evaluated by gray clustering analysis.

Key words: camel hair, cashmere, yakwool, physical property, gray clustering analysis

中图分类号:

TS102.3

邢丽娟, 刘新金, 苏旭中, 曹秀明. 应用灰色聚类方法评价特种动物纤维综合物理性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(01): 26-31.

XING Lijuan, LIU Xinjin, SU Xuzhong, CAO Xiuming. Evaluation on comprehesive physical properties of special animal fibers based on gray clustering[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(01): 26-31.

图/表 5

表1

纤维的物理性能指标"

品种	纤维编号	平均长度/mm	长度不匀率/%	15 mm以下短绒率/%	线密度/dtex	线密度不匀率/%	强力/cN	卷曲数/(个·(25 mm)^-1)	卷曲率/%	卷曲回复率/%	静摩擦因数
品种	纤维编号	平均长度/mm	长度不匀率/%	15 mm以下短绒率/%	线密度/dtex	线密度不匀率/%	强力/cN	卷曲数/(个·(25 mm)^-1)	卷曲率/%	卷曲回复率/%	$u 1$	$u 2$	u'₁	u'₂
黑牦牛绒	1^#	26.6	39.1	29.8	3.60	25.05	9.29	5.3	12.06	10.97	0.239 0	0.286 5	0.320 0	0.382 5
青牦牛绒	2^#	25.9	38.9	27.7	3.49	24.53	7.57	6.1	8.38	7.80	0.230 8	0.291 7	0.321 2	0.390 4
脱色牦牛绒	3^#	25.7	39.7	21.8	3.44	25.72	4.89	8.5	12.11	10.99	0.231 2	0.283 7	0.312 1	0.401 7
白山羊绒	4^#	35.5	37.5	22.9	2.47	20.12	6.52	6.6	10.06	9.37	0.236 3	0.298 7	0.345 3	0.399 3
紫山羊绒	5^#	30.9	37.2	29.0	2.74	22.54	5.94	4.4	4.26	3.74	0.239 0	0.302 2	0.333 8	0.411 6
青山羊绒	6^#	33.6	38.0	28.3	2.81	21.79	5.61	5.3	3.59	3.40	0.230 1	0.301 8	0.336 0	0.415 6
白羊羔绒	7^#	30.5	35.7	30.5	2.96	25.57	5.62	5.7	5.45	5.12	0.236 6	0.332 6	0.342 2	0.412 8
白骆驼绒	8^#	36.3	42.9	19.9	3.04	29.20	6.21	8.3	9.11	7.90	0.238 6	0.299 6	0.347 7	0.410 2
黄骆驼绒	9^#	41.5	40.5	14.0	2.87	27.74	6.47	7.6	6.54	5.34	0.239 9	0.299 0	0.343 1	0.408 6

表1

表2

图1

表3

表4

参考文献 14

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聚类指标	k₁(好)	k₂(中)	k₃(差)
平均长度	[1.083,1.304]	[0.917,1.083]	[0.807,0.917]
长度不匀率	[1.030,1.084]	[0.970,1.030]	[0.902,0.970]
15 mm以下短绒率	[1.151,1.675]	[0.849,1.151]	[0.770,0.849]
线密度	[1.064,1.218]	[0.936,1.064]	[0.836,0.936]
离散率	[1.063,1.213]	[0.937,1.063]	[0.834,0.937]
强力	[1.114,1.439]	[0.886,1.114]	[0.757,0.886]
卷曲数	[1.106,1.324]	[0.894,1.106]	[0.685,0.894]
卷曲率	[1.179,1.523]	[0.821,1.179]	[0.452,0.821]
卷曲回复率	[1.176,1.530]	[0.824,1.176]	[0.473,0.824]
静摩擦(顺)因数	[1.007,1.018]	[0.993,1.007]	[0.976,0.993]
静摩擦(逆)因数	[1.027,1.110]	[0.973,1.027]	[0.947,0.973]
动摩擦(顺)因数	[1.018,1.046]	[0.982,1.018]	[0.939,0.982]
动摩擦(逆)因数	[1.014,1.032]	[0.986,1.014]	[0.950,0.986]

品种	线密度/tex	粗纱定量/(g·m^-1)	捻度/(捻·m^-1)	总牵伸倍数	钢丝圈号	隔距大小/mm	锭子速度/(r·min^-1)
白山羊绒	14.29	0.3	851	43.5	6903 9/0	3.0	7 000
白山羊绒	20.83	0.4	753	39.9	6903 6/0	4.0	9 000
黄骆驼绒	14.29	0.3	824	43.8	6903 9/0	3.0	8 000
黄骆驼绒	20.83	0.4	725	40.2	6903 6/0	4.0	9 000
黑牦牛绒	14.29	0.3	1 035	43.9	6903 9/0	3.0	5 000
黑牦牛绒	20.83	0.4	776	40.3	6903 6/0	4.0	7 000

品种	线密度/ tex	强力/ cN	伸长率/ %	CV值/ %	纱疵/(个·km^-1)
品种	线密度/ tex	强力/ cN	伸长率/ %	CV值/ %	细节(-50%)	粗节(+50%)	毛粒(+200%)
白山羊绒	14.29	92.5	17.7	16.9	287	100	24
白山羊绒	20.83	153.6	17.1	12.7	11	13	10
黄驼绒	14.29	89.2	9.8	17.3	310	130	35
黄驼绒	20.83	146.9	11.9	14.6	65	63	3
黑牦牛绒	14.29	80.5	4.7	18.5	425	235	155
黑牦牛绒	20.83	97.6	9.1	15.9	115	61	26

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应用灰色聚类方法评价特种动物纤维综合物理性能

Evaluation on comprehesive physical properties of special animal fibers based on gray clustering

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