纺织学报 ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (04): 98-105.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20181106008

• 染整与化学品 • 上一篇    下一篇

纬平针棉针织物平幅丝光条件与其线圈结构的关系

尉腾祥1,2, 李敏1,2, 彭虹云1,2, 付少海1,2()   

  1. 1.江苏省纺织品数字喷墨印花工程技术研究中心, 江苏 无锡 214122
    2.生态纺织教育部重点实验室(江南大学), 江苏 无锡 214122
  • 收稿日期:2018-11-21 修回日期:2020-01-15 出版日期:2020-04-15 发布日期:2020-04-27
  • 通讯作者: 付少海
  • 作者简介:尉腾祥(1994—),男,硕士生。主要研究方向为针织物平幅丝光线圈形态变化规律。
  • 基金资助:
    国家重点研发计划资助项目(2017YFB0309701)

Relationship between open-width mercerization condition and loop structure of weft plain-knitted cotton fabrics

WEI Tengxiang1,2, LI Min1,2, PENG Hongyun1,2, FU Shaohai1,2()   

  1. 1. Jiangsu Engineering Research Center for Digital Textile Inkjet Printing, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Eco-Textiles (Jiangnan University), Ministry of Education, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2018-11-21 Revised:2020-01-15 Online:2020-04-15 Published:2020-04-27
  • Contact: FU Shaohai

摘要:

针对纬平针棉针织物在平幅丝光过程中线圈拉伸易变形的问题,探究了其在不同丝光条件下线圈结构的变化规律,采用网格法将织物分成不同的织物单元,研究双向拉伸条件下不同单元的位移矢量、圈距、圈高、形态系数、剪切角等结构参数沿拉伸方向的变化规律。结果表明:张力和氢氧化钠质量浓度对线圈结构参数变化的影响较大,丝光温度和时间对线圈结构参数的影响较小;丝光后位移矢量场中出现织物形变较小(位移比小于50%)的椭圆形区域,圈距和圈高均服从抛物线变化(拟合度高于0.94),形态系数呈周期性梯度分布,剪切角的分布存在明显的递变规律;较佳的丝光工艺为双向拉伸扩幅5%,氢氧化钠质量浓度200 g/L,温度50 ℃,时间120 s。

关键词: 纬平针棉针织物, 网格法, 平幅丝光, 双向拉伸, 线圈形态, 织物向量场

Abstract:

The change of loop structure of mercerized weft plain-knitted cotton fabric was studied to solve the problem that the loop is easily deformed in the process of open-width mercerization. In this research, the fabric was cut into different fabric pieces using the grid method, and the displacement vector, loop spacing and height, shape coefficient and shear angle of different units under biaxial stretching were investigated under biaxial tensile loading. The results show that tension and NaOH concentration of mercerizing have significant effects on the shape change of the loops, while temperature and time of mercerizing have less effect on the loop shape. For the mercerized fabric, a uniform elliptical region appeared with the displacement ratio less than 50%. Moreover, the loop spacing and height obey parabola model with the fitting degree higher than 0.94. The loop shape coefficient presents periodic gradient distribution. The shear angle exhibites an obvious response to the optimal mercerizing condition, which is obtained to be 5% tension extension, 200 g/L NaOH at 50 ℃ for 120 s.

Key words: weft plain-knitted cotton fabric, grid method, open-width mercerizing, biaxial stretching, loop shape, fabric vector field

中图分类号: 

  • TS181

图1

实验丝光架"

图2

剪切角示意图 注:图中(i, j)为单元格的坐标; Fw和Fc为织物受到的不同方向的拉力。"

图3

不同拉伸扩幅条件下织物的向量场"

图4

不同拉伸扩幅条件下织物中心线上圈距和圈高"

图5

不同拉伸扩幅条件下织物的形态系数"

图6

不同拉伸扩幅条件下织物的剪切角"

图7

不同氢氧化钠质量浓度时织物的向量场"

图8

不同氢氧化钠质量浓度时织物的圈距和圈高"

图9

不同氢氧化钠质量浓度时织物的形态系数"

图10

不同氢氧化钠质量浓度时织物的剪切角"

图11

不同丝光温度条件下织物的向量场"

图12

不同丝光温度条件下织物的圈距和圈高"

图13

不同丝光温度条件下织物的形态系数"

图14

不同丝光温度条件下织物的剪切角"

图15

不同丝光时间条件下织物的向量场"

图16

不同丝光时间条件下织物的圈距和圈高"

图17

不同丝光时间条件下织物的形态系数"

图18

不同丝光时间条件下织物的剪切角"

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