段染纱横编袜子花纹形成方法

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190902206

纺织学报 ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (10): 52-57.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20190902206

段染纱横编袜子花纹形成方法

徐艳华(), 袁新林

常州大学美术与设计学院, 江苏常州 213164

收稿日期:2019-09-04 修回日期:2020-07-11 出版日期:2020-10-15 发布日期:2020-10-27
作者简介:徐艳华(1973—),女,教授,博士。主要研究方向为针织技术及针织服装设计。E-mail:xyh@mail.dhu.edu.cn。
基金资助:
教育部人文社会科学研究项目(18YJA760068);江苏省教育科学“十三五”规划课题(D/2018/01/78);江苏省社会科学基金项目(17YSD001);常州大学校基金资助项目(ZMF16020064);常州大学校基金资助项目(ZMF16020065)

Pattern forming method of flat-knitted socks with section-dyed yarn

XU Yanhua(), YUAN Xinlin

School of Arts and Design, Changzhou University, Changzhou, Jiangsu 213164, China

Received:2019-09-04 Revised:2020-07-11 Online:2020-10-15 Published:2020-10-27

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为给段染纱横编袜子的花纹设计提供理论参考,分析了筒形织物的横机圆周编织方式,以及段染纱在筒形织物中色段的分布规律,并用圆柱螺旋线来模拟其分布规律。借助MatLab模拟出既定段染纱筒形织物的花纹,模拟花纹与织物实样花纹有良好的一致性,同时给出段染纱横编袜子花纹形成的几种方法。研究结果表明:段染纱的色段分布规律结合筒形织物的圆周编织方式,可形成多样的花纹,花纹形状可由圆筒一周的用纱长度与色段循环长度的比例关系确定;用MatLab圆柱螺旋线程序可方便地模拟出花纹;生产中可通过改变线圈长度设计横编袜子花纹,也可根据设计的花纹选择段染纱。

关键词: 段染纱, 横编袜子, 筒形织物, 花纹, 花纹模拟

Abstract:

In order to provide theoretical reference for the pattern design of flat-knitted socks using section-dyed yarn, the distribution regularities of a section-dyed yarn in the tubular fabric produced using the circular knitting was described. It is indicated that the distribution regularity is imitated by the cylindrical helix. A MatLab procedure was used to simulate the pattern of the tubular fabric made from the section-dyed yarn, and it is shown that the simulated patterns have a good agreement with the real tubular fabric patterns. Based on the achievement, several pattern forming methods based on the use of flat knitting machines were proposed and used for creating patterns for flat-knitted socks. The results show that various patterns could be formed when the distribution regularity of the section-dyed yarn is combined with the circular knitting method of the tubular fabric. The pattern shape could be determined by the proportional relationship between the length of yarn used in a circular course and color segment cycle. The patterns of the tubular fabric could be simulated adopting cylindrical helix using MatLab. The pattern of the flat-knitted socks is obtained by changing the stitch length and by selecting the section-dyed yarn.

Key words: section-dyed yarn, flat-knitted sock, tubular fabric, pattern, pattern simulation

中图分类号:

TS184.6

徐艳华, 袁新林. 段染纱横编袜子花纹形成方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(10): 52-57.

XU Yanhua, YUAN Xinlin. Pattern forming method of flat-knitted socks with section-dyed yarn[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(10): 52-57.

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编号	颜色顺序	色段数	循环长度/mm	平均长度/mm
1	黄红蓝绿	5	1 780
2	黄橙棕	13	1 792	1 787.5
3	白棕紫	10	1 788
4	绿黄红蓝	11	1 790

颜色	色段排列顺序	色度长度/mm
紫	1	570
黑	2(8)	190
紫	3(6)	60
绿	4(7)	120
紫	5	478

试样编号	颜色排序	色段数	循环长度/mm
5	白黄橙红	5	1 752
6	白棕紫	10	1 748
7	白黄棕橙	9	1 756

段染纱横编袜子花纹形成方法

Pattern forming method of flat-knitted socks with section-dyed yarn

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