针织西服面料的挺括风格研究

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20191200606

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为探讨针织面料在西服开发应用的要求与标准,寻找能够用于西服开发的针织面料,分别从弯曲长度、折皱回复性、悬垂性3个方面对针织面料的挺括风格进行量化分析。借助实验仪器以及数据处理得到弯曲刚度、折皱回复角、静态悬垂系数3项性能指标,以机织西服面料为参考标准,对针织面料的挺括风格进行研究分析。结果表明:6路变化罗马组织是较为适合针织面料开发西服的组织结构,其结构稳定性优于12路小提花组织以及变化间隔组织,降低纵向弯曲刚度与横向弯曲刚度的差异;织物厚度增加0.1 mm,折皱回复程度提高10%;织物密度控制在110~130线圈/(5 cm)时,悬垂程度达到机织西服面料的60%以上;6路变化罗马组织配合高织物密度能够使针织面料的挺括风格达到机织西服面料的80%。

关键词: 针织面料, 弯曲刚度, 折皱回复角, 悬垂系数, 挺括风格

Abstract:

In order to discuss the requirements and standards for the development and application of knitted fabrics for suits, this study quantified the stiffness style of knitted fabrics in three aspects, i.e. bending length, wrinkle recovery and drape. With the help of experimental instruments and data processing, three performance indicators, bending stiffness, wrinkle recovery angle and static drape coefficient, were obtained. The woven suit fabric was used as a benchmark to study and analyze the stiffness style of knitted fabrics. The results show that knitted fabrics using the six-way-change Roman knit structure is more suitable for suits, and the structural stability of the six-way-change Roman knit structure is better than that of the twelve-way small jacquard structure and the variable interval structure, which reduces the difference between the course and wale flexural stiffness. The fabric thickness of the six-way-change Roman knit structure is 0.1 mm thicker, and the degree of crease recovery is 10% higher. When the fabric density is set to 110-130 loops/(5 cm), the degree of drape reaches more than 60% of that for the woven suit fabric. It is shown that the six-way-change Roman structure combined with high fabric density makes the stiffness style of knitted fabric reach 80% of that of the woven suit fabric.

Key words: knitted fabric, bending stiffness, wrinkle recovery angle, drape coefficient, stiffness style

中图分类号:

TS186.2

李新彤, 高哲, 顾洪阳, 丛洪莲. 针织西服面料的挺括风格研究[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(11): 53-58.

LI Xintong, GAO Zhe, GU Hongyang, CONG Honglian. Study on stiffness style of knitted suit fabrics[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(11): 53-58.

图/表 5

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分类	含量/%	织物编号	经纬密/ (根·(5 cm)^-1)		横纵密/ (线圈·(5 cm)^-1)		面密度/ (g·m^-2)	厚度/ mm		类别
分类	含量/%	织物编号	经向	纬向	横密	纵密	面密度/ (g·m^-2)	厚度/ mm		类别
毛型面料	20(羊毛)	1	200	190	—	—	198	0.39	机织
		2	—	—	130	130	209	0.63	针织6路变化罗马组织
		3	—	—	125	130	199	0.52	针织6路变化罗马组织
		4	—	—	105	100	200	0.53	针织12路小提花组织
	20~40(羊毛)	5	210	175	—	—	180	0.41	机织
		6	—	—	80	40	180	0.69	针织12路小提花组织
		7	—	—	120	80	195	0.92	针织6路变化间隔组织
	40~60(羊毛)	8	240	165	—	—	198	0.40	机织
		9	—	—	120	80	182	0.65	针织6路变化间隔组织
		10	—	—	115	75	177	0.65	针织8路变化间隔组织
棉型面料	60(棉)	11	250	245	—	—	199	0.34	机织
		12	—	—	120	150	195	0.72	针织6路变化罗马组织
		13	—	—	115	160	185	0.63	针织2路棉毛组织
		14	—	—	80	100	175	0.62	针织6路双面珠地
		15	—	—	75	80	210	0.64	针织8路蜂巢组织