纺织学报 ›› 2023, Vol. 44 ›› Issue (03): 231-238.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20211111408

• 综合述评 • 上一篇    下一篇

废旧纺织品循环经济的监督检验体系研究进展

韩非1(), 郎晨宏2, 邱夷平3   

  1. 1.上海市质量监督检验技术研究院, 上海 200040
    2.泉州师范学院 纺织与服装学院, 福建 泉州 362046
    3.东华大学 纺织学院, 上海 201620
  • 收稿日期:2021-12-01 修回日期:2022-04-12 出版日期:2023-03-15 发布日期:2023-04-14
  • 作者简介:韩非(1989—),男,工程师,硕士。主要研究方向为纺织检测。E-mail:ham-fiven@hotmail.com。
  • 基金资助:
    国家自然科学基金青年科学基金项目(51803108);福建省自然科学基金青年创新基金项目(2019J05106);泉州市科技局重点产业科技创新项目(2018G011)

Research progress of supervision and inspection system for recycling waste textiles

HAN Fei1(), LANG Chenhong2, QIU Yiping3   

  1. 1. Shanghai Institute of Quality Inspection and Technical Research, Shanghai 200040, China
    2. College of Textiles and Apparel, Quanzhou Normal University, Quanzhou, Fujian 362046, China
    3. College of Textiles, Donghua University, Shanghai 201620, China
  • Received:2021-12-01 Revised:2022-04-12 Published:2023-03-15 Online:2023-04-14

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摘要：

废旧纺织品循环经济的监督检验体系的建立,有助于稳定废旧纺织品的再制造产品品质,规范市场秩序,提高大众可信度,具有重要意义。为此,在深入分析废旧纺织品法制体系现状的基础上,借鉴国外经验提出进一步完善体系的策略,对标准化体系进行补充;阐述了废旧纺织品的检验检测技术的最新研究成果,主要包括红外光谱技术在分拣过程的应用以及再生纤维的定性鉴别分析;介绍了基于校服、军服以及工服3类服装品类的行业自治。研究认为法制体系、标准化体系以及社会监督三者是有机整体,指出加速全民环保意识的提高是促进废旧纺织品循环经济发展,并实现远程云自动化生产的关键。

关键词: 废旧纺织品, 标准体系, 红外光谱检测, 再生纤维鉴别, 循环经济, 监督检验体系

Abstract:

Significance The direct disposal of textiles for daily use leads to double pressures of environmental pollution and resource waste. Under the macro environment of national promotion for energy conservation and emission reduction and public participation in waste sorting, the recycling of waste textiles becomes a necessary condition for the sustainable development of the textile industry. Relevant policies were issued nationally, but the management of waste textiles was different from place to place. Coupled with the occurrence of market chaos, many consumers have insufficient understanding on recycling waste textiles, and low support for the products made from tecycled textiles. The quality of the recovered waste textiles and the quality of products from recycled textiles seem to be the key to the sound development of circular economy in the textile industry. With the aim to stabilize the quality of remanufactured products from waste textiles, standardize market order, and improve the credibility of the public, it was of great significance for a supervision and inspection system for recycling waste textiles to be established.

Progress According to an in-depth analysis of the present situation about the waste textiles legal system, waste textiles were classified as solid wastes, which are regulated by laws of environmental protection. Based on international experience and the present domestic situation of recycling, a strategy to further improve the system was put forward. It is more appropriate for waste textiles to be separated at the household level and collected separately. The existing standard system cannot fully cover the categories of remanufactured products. Some national mandatory standards explicitly prohibit the use of waste textiles, which hinders the re-use of waste textiles. The latest research achievements of the inspection and testing technology of waste textiles were described, including the application of infrared spectroscopy in sorting process and qualitative analysis of regenerated fibers. In some studies, it was found that infrared spectroscopy has good applicability in the rapid detection of cotton, polyester and wool/cashmere fibers in waste textiles, which is able to effectively improve the detection efficiency and reduce the labor cost. Furthermore, industry autonomy based on school uniforms, military uniforms and work uniforms was introduced. It is necessary to realize industry autonomy through the extension of producer responsibility.

Conclusions and Prospect The management of waste textiles in China is still at the primary stage of the legal system, and the quality control of waste textiles in standard specifications has not formed a close-loop management. Therefore, the laws and regulations of waste textiles need to be specialized and the standard specifications need to be systematized. The regulations on recycling of waste textiles should be formulated, the application of waste textiles should be widened, and the inspection and testing methods of waste textiles should be strengthened. For the future development trend of recycling waste textiles, the detection technology should be innovated with accuracy, timeliness and online as the main factors. The social supervision comes from the consciousness of the industry and even the whole people. Finally, the review pointed out that the legal system, standardization system and social supervision are whole, and accelerating the improvement of national environmental protection awareness is the key to promote the development of waste textiles recycling economy and realizing remote cloud automated production.

Key words: waste textile, standard system, infrared spectroscopy detection, regenerated fiber identification, recycling economy, supervision and inspection system

中图分类号: 

  • TS199

表1

有关废旧纺织品循环经济的法律法规条款"

名称 实施时间 修订时间 条款内容
《中华人民共和国清洁生产促进法》 2012年
7月1日		 2012年 控制污染物排放量,鼓励购买、使用节能、节水、废物再生利用的产品
《中华人民共和国环境保护法》 2015年
1月1日		 2014年 企业应采用废弃物综合利用技术和污染物无害化处理技术,减少污染物的产生
《中华人民共和国循环经济促进法》 2018年
10月26日		 2018年 明示减量化、再利用、资源化具体内容
《再生资源回收管理办法》 2019年
11月30日		 2019年 强调废棉等再生资源的回收
《中华人民共和国固体废物污染环境防治法》 2020年
9月1日		 2020年 坚持减量化、资源化和无害化的原则

图1

废旧纺织品的标准体系架构"

表2

再生蛋白质纤维的特征氨基酸"

纤维种类 特征氨基酸及其含量 占总氨基酸
含量比例/%
羊毛纤维 谷氨酸15.06%,精氨酸10.42%,半胱氨酸9.90%,丝氨酸8.26%,亮氨酸7.36% 51.00
桑蚕丝
(丝素蛋白)		 甘氨酸37.18%,丙氨酸25.84%,丝氨酸13.03%,酪氨酸10.81% 86.86
牛奶纤维 谷氨酸24.47%,酪氨酸10.30%,亮氨酸10.21%,脯氨酸8.39% 53.37
大豆蛋白纤维 谷氨酸20.62%,天冬氨酸11.93%,亮氨酸9.21%,甘氨酸8.6%,丙氨酸7.63% 57.99
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