情绪在小生褶子设计要素和语义评价间的中介作用

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20221200101

纺织学报 ›› 2024, Vol. 45 ›› Issue (01): 185-193.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221200101

情绪在小生褶子设计要素和语义评价间的中介作用

韩燕娜¹, 江翼成¹, 郑霞¹(), 杨子田²

1.浙江大学艺术与考古学院,浙江杭州 310063
2.东华大学服装与艺术设计学院, 上海 200051

收稿日期:2022-12-01 修回日期:2023-03-07 出版日期:2024-01-15 发布日期:2024-03-14
通讯作者: 郑霞(1979—),女,副教授,博士。主要研究方向为文化遗产认知与传播。E-mail:zhengxia@zju.edu.cn。
作者简介:韩燕娜(1986—),女,博士生。主要研究方向为数字文化遗产。
基金资助:
浙江省哲学社会科学领军人才培育课题(引进人才支持)(21YJRC02-1YB);国家重点研发计划项目(2017YFB1402104);国家重点研发计划项目(2019YFC1521105);中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(S20230301)

Mediating role of emotions between pleated costume elements and semantic evaluations

HAN Yanna¹, JIANG Yicheng¹, ZHENG Xia¹(), YANG Zitian²

1. School of Art and Archaeology, Zhejiang University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310063, China
2. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China

Received:2022-12-01 Revised:2023-03-07 Published:2024-01-15 Online:2024-03-14

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为厘清戏曲服装设计要素与审美情绪、审美评价间的关系,以越剧小生褶子为研究对象,以Leder审美认知加工模型和情绪PAD(愉悦度、激活度、优势度)模型为理论基础,采用纯涤纶和纯丝绸面料2种材质、15种颜色(上五色、下五色、中间五色)、4种纹样(无纹样、边花、折枝、团花)进行组合设计,利用CLO3D软件制作出120款越剧小生褶子,以三维穿着图片作为刺激材料,在35名被试者情绪测量和5组语义评价的基础上,分析了不同设计元素对语义评价和PAD情绪的影响及其相互关系。研究结果表明:小生褶子设计要素能够引起不同的审美情绪和语义评价,根据情绪影响可将小生褶子颜色划分为3类:高愉悦、低唤醒、高支配颜色,高愉悦、高唤醒、低支配颜色和低愉悦、低唤醒、低支配颜色,在此基础上探明了情绪维度在褶子设计要素与语义评价间的中介作用。

关键词: 戏曲服装, 感性语义, PAD情绪模型, 褶子, 中介作用, 审美理论

Abstract:

Objective Chinese opera costumes play a vital role in the opera performance. To ensure the social preservation of traditional opera culture, it requires understanding how young audiences perceive and evaluate costumes emotionally and semantically. However, limited research has been done on the quantitative relationship among costume design elements, aesthetic emotions, and semantic evaluations. Therefore, using Leder's aesthetic cognitive processing model and the emotional Pleasure-Arousal-Dominance (PAD) model, this study investigated how emotions are involved in the semantic evaluations of clothing. The Xiaosheng pleated garment of Yue Opera served as the specific research object.

Method Using two types of materials, pure polyester and pure silk, with 15 colors (top five colors, bottom five colors, middle five colors) and 4 patterns (no pattern, flower decorated border, flower broken in branch, flower medallion) for combination design, 120 pictures were built by CLO3D 6.0. Through corpus search, group classification, and expert consultation, we screened five groups of semantic differential pairs used to describe the Xiaosheng pleated garments: low level-high level, refined-rough, fresh-gaudy, brave-gentle, and stiff-drape. University students were invited to randomly score all the samples on the liking, PAD emotions, and semantic evaluations on PsychoPy 2022.2.4, and data from 35 validated subjects was analyzed via SPSS 25 and Amos 26.

Results The relevance of pleated garment design elements, emotions, and semantic evaluations was first examined. The results showed that only the material had a significant correlation with the semantic "stiff-drape". The color was strongly correlated with liking, pleasure, dominance, arousal, "low level-high level", and "refined-rough". The pattern was also significantly correlated with the last three. Moreover, pleasure had a significant correlation with all semantics except for "fresh-gaudy", while arousal was significantly correlated with "fresh-gaudy" and "brave-gentle". Finally, dominance had a significant correlation with all semantics. We further leveraged one-way ANOVA to test the effects of design elements on emotions and semantics, respectively. Material did not affect emotions, and showed significance only in semantics "stiff-drape". The arousal of flower medallion was significantly higher than that of no pattern, and those with flower medallion were voted to be more high-class. Color had a significant effect on all emotions and semantics. According to the emotional impact, the color of Xiaosheng pleated clothes can be clustered into 3 categories: the first category is high pleasure, low arousal, high dominance colors, containing Aiqing, white, light pink, light blue, and black. The second category is high pleasure, high arousal, low dominance colors, containing bright red, goose yellow, pink, and bright yellow. The third category is low pleasure, low arousal, low dominance colors, containing treasure blue, lake, old green, medium green, and purple. Finally, the study constructed the mediating model of emotions on partial design elements and semantic evaluations. The analysis shows that arousal and dominance played a mediating role in clustered color type, pattern and "low level - high level". Pleasure, arousal, and dominance mediated the "refined-rough" in the clustered color and pattern. In the clustered color and semantic judgment of "fresh-gaudy", PAD played the mediation roles. "Brave-gentle" evaluation was mediated by the pleasure and arousal of the color. In addition, the dominance of color positively predicted the semantics "stiff-drape".

Conclusion The combinations of materials, colors and patterns of pleated garments have effects on both aesthetic judgments and aesthetic emotions. Pleated garments with the feeling of high-level, refined, drape, fresh, and gentle were more likely to be preferred by the youngsters, and the design of patterns was significantly associated with the semantics "low level-high level", "refined-rough", and emotional arousal. The study also found that color can significantly affect aesthetic emotions. Based on the PAD emotion model, the traditional opera costume color scheme was reclassified into three major categories: high pleasure, high arousal, and low dominance; high pleasure, low arousal, and high dominance; and low pleasure, low arousal, and low dominance. It was also explored that emotions played an important mediating role in the pleated garment design elements and semantic evaluations. Therefore, this study provides an empirical reference for the aesthetic process of opera costumes and their innovative design.

Key words: opera costumes, perceptual semantics, PAD emotional model, pleated garment, mediation model, aesthetic theory

中图分类号:

TS941.12

韩燕娜, 江翼成, 郑霞, 杨子田. 情绪在小生褶子设计要素和语义评价间的中介作用[J]. 纺织学报, 2024, 45(01): 185-193.

HAN Yanna, JIANG Yicheng, ZHENG Xia, YANG Zitian. Mediating role of emotions between pleated costume elements and semantic evaluations[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2024, 45(01): 185-193.

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类别	颜色	H值	S值	V值	类别	颜色	H值	S值	V值	类别	颜色	H值	S值	V值
上五色	大红	351	90	86	中间色	淡粉	1	17	95	下五色	粉色	330	55	91
	老绿	147	98	36		淡蓝	197	34	82		宝蓝	227	76	60
	明黄	46	93	98		鹅黄	55	71	99		紫色	343	69	39
	白色	0	0	100		艾青	152	28	89		湖色	191	100	63
	黑色	0	0	0		中绿	159	76	80		香色	45	67	48

维度	组别	自由度	均方	F	Sig
材质	低档的-高档的	1	0.682	0.708	0.402
	精致的-粗犷的	1	2.055	2.637	0.107
	挺括的-垂坠的	1	71.297	228.537^**	0.000
	清新的-浓艳的	1	0.479	0.199	0.656
	勇武的-斯文的	1	3.161	1.493	0.224
	愉悦度	1	0.114	0.143	0.706
	唤醒度	1	0.182	0.323	0.571
	支配度	1	0.395	0.266	0.607
纹样装饰	低档的-高档的	3	4.915	5.725^**	0.001
	精致的-粗犷的	3	5.530	8.285^**	0.000
	挺括的-垂坠的	3	0.152	0.163	0.921
	清新的-浓艳的	3	1.205	0.498	0.684
	勇武的-斯文的	3	0.522	0.241	0.868
	愉悦度	3	0.549	0.688	0.561
	唤醒度	3	0.899	1.632	0.186
	支配度	3	0.513	0.342	0.795
颜色	低档的-高档的	14	6.602	31.665^**	0.000
	精致的-粗犷的	14	4.921	20.565^**	0.000
	挺括的-垂坠的	14	1.977	2.581^**	0.003
	清新的-浓艳的	14	19.615	215.137^**	0.000
	勇武的-斯文的	14	17.230	153.732^**	0.000
	愉悦度	14	6.145	79.102^**	0.000
	唤醒度	14	4.146	50.843^**	0.000
	支配度	14	11.996	158.993^**	0.000

类型	均值	标准差	4	5	6	7	8	9	10	11	12
1 材质	—	—	0.064	0.040	0.003	0.042	0.087	-0.136	0.811^**	-0.057	0.168
2 颜色	—	—	-0.319^**	-0.481^**	-0.360^**	-0.281^**	-0.350^**	0.261^**	-0.154	0.177	-0.060
3 纹样	—	—	0.102	0.111	0.240^**	0.109	0.342^**	-0.410^**	-0.071	0.166	-0.090
4 不喜欢-喜欢	3.271	1.236	—	0.396^**	-0.104	0.926^**	0.886^**	-0.728^**	0.392^**	-0.660^**	0.482^**
5 愉悦度	3.930	0.890		-	0.617^**	0.382^**	0.417^**	-0.512^**	0.214^*	-0.119	0.317^**
6 唤醒度	3.158	0.748			—	-0.125	0.048	-0.102	-0.025	0.475^**	-0.189^*
7 支配度	3.031	1.216				—	0.864^**	-0.718^**	0.381^**	-0.658^**	0.486^**
8 低档的-高档的	3.796	0.980					—	-0.739^**	0.376^**	-0.457^**	0.312^**
9 精致的-粗犷的	3.160	0.889						—	-0.406^**	0.561^**	-0.676^**
10 挺括的-垂坠的	3.983	0.953							—	-0.384^**	0.456^**
11 清新的-浓艳的	3.844	1.545								—	-0.765^**
12 勇武的-斯文的	3.960	1.458									—

情绪在小生褶子设计要素和语义评价间的中介作用

Mediating role of emotions between pleated costume elements and semantic evaluations

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