纺织学报 ›› 2005, Vol. 26 ›› Issue (6): 68-71.

• 分析探讨 • 上一篇    下一篇

翻领构成原理与计算新探

浦冬晓   

  1. 江阴职业技术学院 江苏江阴214433
  • 收稿日期:1900-01-01 修回日期:1900-01-01 出版日期:2005-12-15 发布日期:2005-12-15

Principle of lapel forming and a probe to its computation

PU Dong-xiao   

  1. Jiangyin Polytechnic College;Jiangyin;Jiangsu 214433;China
  • Received:1900-01-01 Revised:1900-01-01 Online:2005-12-15 Published:2005-12-15

摘要: 目前计算翻领松度主要依据实践经验进行设计,一些常见计算翻领松度的方法也存在一定不足。当领面、领座采用一些特定配比值时,用现有一些方法计算易出现误差。通过先计算出领座和翻领的领圈外口线这2个圆的水平半径,再利用两者半径差得到两者的圆周长之差,根据人体结构情况,经合理分配计算,最终得到翻领的变动松度。通过比较和测试,所述的计算方法较好地解决了翻领结构设计中易出现的误差,具有更好的科学性、准确性和较好的实用价值。

Abstract: At present,lapel ease allowance is designed mainly on the basis of experience.There exist shortcomings in one way or another in the commonly used methods for calculating lapel ease allowance.When particular proportion of the top collar to collar stand adopted,it tends to occur errors if the existing computation methods is used for it.With a view to solving this problem,the paper has introduced a new method: first to calculate the average radius of the two circles of collar stand and outer length of the lapel,then,obtain the difference of the circles through the difference of the radii.According to the figure of human body,the changeable ease allowance of the lapel is figured out through reasonable proportioning and computation.Through testing and comparison,it has proved that this method can solve the problem stated above and it is more scientific,accurate and practical.

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