纺织学报 ›› 2007, Vol. 28 ›› Issue (11): 93-96.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

日本文化女装新原型的应用分析

薛福平   

  1. 广东纺织职业技术学院服装艺术系 广东佛山528041
  • 收稿日期:2007-01-14 修回日期:2007-06-14 出版日期:2007-11-15 发布日期:2007-11-15

Application analysis of the Japanese new prototype for women

XUE Fuping   

  1. Department of Garment and Arts;Guangdong Institute of Textile Technology;Foshan;Guangdong 528041;China
  • Received:2007-01-14 Revised:2007-06-14 Online:2007-11-15 Published:2007-11-15

摘要: 阐述日本文化女装新原型(简称新原型)的基本规格和适体条件。针对新原型背长的设定为背部体表长度,提出了不同廓型背长的修正方法,并对中腰节长与前后片的平衡、肩点的变化、胸省的处理、袖窿深点的确定等进行了分析。指出腰部松量概念在腰线断开和腰线不断开情形下所表达的含义,胸省、肩省的设置与使用上与腰部造型不具有严格的一致性,最后以腰部半合身型、箱型结构为例,分析了新原型的具体设计应用,为新原型的应用提供了一定的理论参考。

Abstract: The article elaborates the basic standard and figure adaptation requirement in the Japanese new prototype for women.Revision of different figures back length,the balance between waist line length and front-back bodices,handling of shoulder dart and bust dart,armhole depth and the definition of waist ease in respect of broken or enclosed waist seam are discussed.It is elucidated theoretically that shoulder dart and bust dart shows differences from the waist model.Taking the waist form-fitting and boxy silhouette for example,the design application of new prototype is analyzed,providing reference in theory for new prototype′s application.

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