纺织学报 ›› 2010, Vol. 31 ›› Issue (8): 103-107.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

基于等分法的裤装结构设计

吴厚林   

  1. 浙江科技学院
  • 收稿日期:2009-12-28 修回日期:2010-05-10 出版日期:2010-08-15 发布日期:2010-08-15
  • 通讯作者: 吴厚林

A Research on Ttrousers Structural Design

Hou-lin Wu   

  • Received:2009-12-28 Revised:2010-05-10 Online:2010-08-15 Published:2010-08-15
  • Contact: Hou-lin Wu

摘要: 传统比例法设计裤装结构,有一整套经验公式及定寸,它是经长期实践和经验积累的,有一定的合理性。但针对丰富多变的各种裤装款式,恰当的比例分配是一个很难掌握的问题;设计者往往受制于这类经验公式,而制约了设计思想,限制了创新设计的发挥。文章阐述了一种新的裤装结构设计方法——等分法,它依据人体结构比例关系,通过设置“裆定位标线”和“裆位调节量”,运用等分方法设计裤装各相应部位的结构比例关系;根据裤装造型变化规律,以裤装基本结构纸样为基础,变化设计各类裤装造型结构。该方法避免了繁复计算和经验定寸,结构更合理、舒适性适用性好、变化设计灵活、操作性强,设计准确性和工作效率明显提高。

Abstract: Design of the proportion of trousers structure, there is a set of empirical formula and fixed-inch, which is accumulated through long-term practice and experience, there are certainly reasonable. However, a variety of pants for a rich and varied styles, appropriate ratio of distribution is a very difficult problem to master; designers are often subject to such empirical formula, while the constraints of the design ideas, limiting the innovative design of the play. Article describes a new method of structural design of trousers - decile method, it is based on the proportional relationship between the body structure, by setting the "crotch position marking" and "crotch-bit Adjustment," to use equal portions of the corresponding designed Trousers the proportion of parts of the structure of relationships; under the pants shape changes and to the basic structure of pants patterns, based on changes in the structure design of various types of pants style. This method avoids the complex calculations and experience-inch, the structure is more reasonable, comfortable fitness is good, change the design flexible, and feasible, the design accuracy and efficiency improved significantly.

中图分类号: 

  • TS 941.2
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