纺织学报 ›› 2012, Vol. 33 ›› Issue (5): 106-110.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

近代民间刺绣服装中正抢与平套针法比较

张竞琼, 李頔   

  1. 江南大学纺织服装学院
  • 收稿日期:2011-04-25 修回日期:2011-12-30 出版日期:2012-05-15 发布日期:2012-05-15
  • 通讯作者: 张竞琼 E-mail:j.q.chang@126.com
  • 基金资助:

    教育部人文社会科学基金资助项目

Comparative study of Encroaching satin stitch and Parallel long and short stitch in modern fork embroidered costume

 ZHANG  Jing-Qiong, LI  Di   

  1. College of Textile and Clothing, Jiangnan University
  • Received:2011-04-25 Revised:2011-12-30 Online:2012-05-15 Published:2012-05-15

摘要: 近代民间服装是刺绣技艺的物质载体,也是研究刺绣技艺的重要基础。在对上海“凤歌堂”博物馆与南通沈寿刺绣研究所收藏的民间服装进行观测、统计与分析的基础上,重点研究了其刺绣服装中的正抢与平套针法。结合相关理论知识,对正抢与平套针法进行了对比,探求这两种针法在制作过程与表现效果上的区别与联系。进一步结合服装实物色彩、面料等因素,分析了这两种针法在表现方式上的限制性、特殊性与综合性。具有传承宝贵的中国传统刺绣针法与技艺的现实意义,也具有对于现代服装设计中的刺绣等装饰手法的借鉴意义。

关键词: 民间服装 , 正抢针 , 平套针 , 表现方式

Abstract: Modern folk clothing is not only a material carrier for embroidery technique, but also an important research foundation for it. On the basis of observation, statistics and analysis of modern fork embroidered costumes which were collected by Shanghai "Feng Song Tang" Museum and Shen Shou Embroidery Institute in Nantong, we mainly studied the encroaching satin stitch and parallel long and short stitch. We compared the two stitches through related theories knowledge in order to explore the difference and linkages between them in the aspect of production process and performance effects. Then we further analyzed the two needles’ restrictive, special and comprehensive in the performance combined with physical clothing colors, fabrics and other factors. This study has practical significance of inheriting valuable Chinese traditional craftsmanship, it also has reference significance of decoration technique in fashion design today.

Key words: folk costume , encroaching satin stitch , parallel long and short stitch , way of expression

中图分类号: 

  • TS 941.6
[1] 邢乐 梁惠娥 刘传兰. 中式服装消费意向的影响因素[J]. 纺织学报, 2017, 38(03): 155-161.
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