纺织学报 ›› 2012, Vol. 33 ›› Issue (6): 81-87.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

近代民间荷包中的苏绣针法研究

 李頔, 张竞琼   

  1. 江南大学纺织服装学院
  • 收稿日期:2011-06-20 修回日期:2012-02-08 出版日期:2012-06-15 发布日期:2012-06-04
  • 通讯作者: 张竞琼 E-mail:j.q.chang@126.com
  • 基金资助:

    教育部人文社会科学基金项目

Study on stitches of Suzhou embroidery technique in folk pouches

 LI  Di, ZHANG  Jing-Qiong   

  1. College of Textiles and clothing, Jiangnan University
  • Received:2011-06-20 Revised:2012-02-08 Online:2012-06-15 Published:2012-06-04

摘要: 以江南大学民间服饰传习馆、上海“凤歌堂”博物馆及南通仿真绣研究所珍藏的苏绣风格的荷包为研究对象,通过研究分析得到齐针、钉线绣、滚针等十种针法为荷包刺绣中的常用针法。再按照构成方式与表现效果相结合的方法,将荷包中的苏绣针法分为平绣、条纹绣与特色针法三大类进行研究。在对这些针法、步骤以及在荷包中具体应用进行分析的基础上,进一步探讨荷包中苏绣针法的特色及内涵:荷包刺绣虽小,却能以小见大,展示“苏意”风韵;运用针法虽少,却是次序与变化的完美统一,显示出制作者的独到技艺;虽有一定的“程式”,却能托物言情,成为显现个性的重要载体;材料虽普通,却能因地制宜,将其特色发挥到极致。

关键词: 苏绣 , 荷包 , 针法 , 特色

Abstract: Based on the embroidery-style pouch in the Folk Costume Museum of Jiangnan University , Shanghai "Feng Ge Tang" Museum and Nantong simulation embroidery Institute, we found that ten stitches are commonly used in fork pouches:parallel satin stitch,couching stitch,outline stitch ,etc. Applying ten method which combines constitution way and performance result, we research the embroidery stitch in pouches by dividing them into flat embroidery, embroidered stripes and features needle. Lying on the theory we got from studing the steps and the concrete application of the needle in the fork pouches, We explored the characteristics and implications of the embroidery stitch in them:the pouch is small, but it shows the charm of "Su Style" with small see greatly. Although the type of stitches is limited, the producers make the order and change to perfect unity with unique skills. Though the acupuncture have certain “program”, it became an important carrier of emotion using an object to express personality. The material, although common, was used according to circumstances, and its features were exerted to maximize.

Key words: Suzhou embroidery , pouch , stitch method , feature

中图分类号: 

  • TS 941.6
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