纺织学报 ›› 2013, Vol. 34 ›› Issue (1): 101-105.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

经编成形服装装袖工艺设计影响因素分析

佘如芳,吴志明   

  1. 江南大学经编技术教育部工程研究中心
  • 收稿日期:2012-05-02 修回日期:2012-08-28 出版日期:2013-01-15 发布日期:2013-01-07
  • 通讯作者: 吴志明 E-mail:wxwuzm@163.com
  • 基金资助:

    教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金项目;江苏省产学研联合创新资金资助项目——前瞻性联合研究项目

Factors influencing set-in sleeve techniques for warp knitted shaping garments

  • Received:2012-05-02 Revised:2012-08-28 Online:2013-01-15 Published:2013-01-07

摘要: 针对经编成形服装袖子的缺陷,本文首次提出经编成形服装采用装袖结构,并对其装袖工艺进行了研究。通过测量9种具有代表性的贾卡组织在不同机上牵拉密度下的成品密度,分析成品密度变化规律,揭示装袖工艺设计的影响因素。研究认为:成品密度是影响经编成形服装衣袖部位尺寸的主要因素;织物成品密度与机上牵拉密度存在着显著的线性关系;牵拉密度相同时,织物成品横密及纵密随贾卡组织的变化而变化。本文揭示了基于密度参数的经编成形服装装袖工艺设计与样板尺寸之间的定量关系,为装袖工艺的快捷设计提供指导。

关键词: 经编成形服装, 装袖工艺, 牵拉密度, 贾卡组织

Abstract: In dealing with the sleeve’s defects of warp knitting shaping garment, the techniques of applying set-in sleeve in warp knitting shaping garment will be firstly brought out, and the theory of set-in sleeve in warp knitting shaping garment will also be deeply researched in this thesis. This thesis revealed factors that influencing the set-in sleeve techniques through measuring and analyzing the density of 9 representative jacquard in the different stretching density. According to this thesis, the density is the main factor that influencing the size of sleeve; the density of the fabric together with stretching density are highly related; with the same stretching density, the fabric’s density would change tighter with the change of jacquard. In this thesis, the quantitative relation of set-in sleeve techniques basing on density and size would be released, which would give some guidance to the effective design of set-in sleeve techniques.

Key words: warp knitting shaping garments, set-in sleeve techniques, stretching density, jacquard weave

中图分类号: 

  • TS941.64
[1] 徐丽玉 董智佳 丛洪莲 刘海桑. 经编全成形室内健身服的尺寸预测[J]. 纺织学报, 2018, 39(04): 100-105.
[2] 胡瑜 缪旭红 马丕波. 组织结构对涤纶经编织物卷边性的影响[J]. 纺织学报, 2017, 38(01): 52-0.
[3] 张吉生 吴志明. 经编无缝女束身上衣成形方法研究[J]. 纺织学报, 2012, 33(12): 107-111.
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