纺织学报 ›› 2014, Vol. 35 ›› Issue (4): 110-0.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

近代马面裙形制类型与演变的实例分析

王懿1,2,张竞琼2   

  1. 1. 江苏省南通中等专业学校
    2. 江南大学纺织服装学院
  • 收稿日期:2013-03-18 修回日期:2013-11-26 出版日期:2014-04-15 发布日期:2014-04-14
  • 通讯作者: 张竞琼 E-mail:j.q.chang@126.com

Study on molding  types and development of horse-face skirt in modern times

Yi 1,   

  • Received:2013-03-18 Revised:2013-11-26 Online:2014-04-15 Published:2014-04-14

摘要: 本文以“江南大学民间服饰传习馆”、上海“艺风堂”博物馆中的馆藏马面裙为基础,剖析了民国时期鱼鳞裙、凤尾裙、襕干裙等的形制结构及工艺方法。论述了我国裙装由包含大量褶裥的离体式廓形发展至包含少量省褶的合体式廓形、由繁缛的多片式的裙装版型发展至简洁的四片式的裙装版型、由二维至三维的裁剪方式的变化脉络。, 本文以“江南大学民间服饰传习馆”、上海“艺风堂”博物馆中的馆藏马面裙为基础,剖析了民国时期鱼鳞裙、凤尾裙、襕干裙等的形制结构及工艺方法。论述了我国裙装由包含大量褶裥的离体式廓形发展至包含少量省褶的合体式廓形、由繁缛的多片式的裙装版型发展至简洁的四片式的裙装版型、由二维至三维的裁剪方式的变化脉络。

关键词: 马面裙, 鱼鳞百褶裙, 襕干裙, 凤尾裙, 形制演变

Abstract: Based on the research into various kinds of Chinese horse-face skirt collected in the Folk Costume Exhibition and Learning Hall of Jiangnan University and Shanghai Yifengtang Museum, this research is to describe and analyze the structure and the tailor technology of the hundred-pleat skirt, Striped skirt and the phoenix-tail skirt in the early republic of China. It points out that the garment sculpting from loose type with more pleats to fit type with less pleats, the pattern from a over-elaborate skirt cut in many pieces to a simple skirt cut in four pieces, the tailoring from the traditional two-dimensional molding to western three-dimensional ways., Based on the research into various kinds of Chinese horse-face skirt collected in the Folk Costume Exhibition and Learning Hall of Jiangnan University and Shanghai Yifengtang Museum, this research is to describe and analyze the structure and the tailor technology of the hundred-pleat skirt, Striped skirt and the phoenix-tail skirt in the early republic of China. It points out that the garment sculpting from loose type with more pleats to fit type with less pleats, the pattern from a over-elaborate skirt cut in many pieces to a simple skirt cut in four pieces, the tailoring from the traditional two-dimensional molding to western three-dimensional ways.

Key words: horse-face skirt, hundred-pleat skirt, one-piece dress, phoenix-tail skirt, molding development

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, [1] 刘熙.释名:卷五[M].北京:商务印书馆丛书集成本,1939:80.

[2] 周汛,高春明.中国衣冠服饰大辞典[M].上海:上海辞书出版社,1996:284.

[3] 杨米人. 清代北京竹枝词[M].北京:北京古籍出版社,1982:79.

[4] 黄能馥,陈娟娟.中国服装史[M].北京:中国旅游出版社,2001:377.

[5] 周汛,高春明.中国衣冠服饰大辞典[M].上海:上海辞书出版社,1996:285.

[6] 李斗.扬州画舫录:卷九 [M].南京:江苏古籍刻印社,1980:23.

[7] 黄能馥,陈娟娟.中国服装史 [M].北京:中国旅游出版社,2001:377 .

[8] 孙光宪. 思帝乡.全唐诗:卷八九七[M].中华书局,1960:101042.

[9] 李群玉.同郑相并歌姬小饮戏赠.全唐诗:卷五六九[M].中华书局1960:6602.

[10] 高春明.中国服饰名物考[M].上海:上海文化出版社2001:608.

[11] [日]三吉满智子.服装造型学:理论篇[M].北京:中国纺织出版社,2006:291.

[12] 刘昫,张昭远.旧唐书:卷一九七[M]. 北京:中华书局,1975:5277.
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