纺织学报 ›› 2015, Vol. 36 ›› Issue (01): 141-146.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

不同人体厚度状态下贴体上装的衣身结构

  

  • 收稿日期:2013-06-03 修回日期:2014-08-15 出版日期:2015-01-15 发布日期:2015-01-15

Study on structure of fitted clothes of upper apparel with different thickness of body

  • Received:2013-06-03 Revised:2014-08-15 Online:2015-01-15 Published:2015-01-15

摘要:

身体厚度是人体纵深向的厚度尺寸,是研究女装侧面外观效果的参考尺寸,其结构处理技术影响服装与人体体表的吻合程度。以160/84A国标女上半身人台为研究对象,采用美国OptiTex软件的三维CAD技术设置虚拟人体模型,并以0.56cm的公差增加人体模特的侧面厚度,共变化10次,然后通过数字化立体裁剪的方式获得衣身样板,以平面图片叠加的分析方法,对比分析不同贴体衣身样板中各工艺点的位移变化,总结衣身平面结构的变化规律及优化服装贴体原型的方法。结果显示:人体厚度每增加0.56cm,胸围、腰围、上胸围基本呈等差增加,贴体样板横向尺寸的变化大于纵向尺寸,前后腰省、肩省等都相应增大。

Abstract:

Body thickness refers to thickness dimension along with human body depth, and it is a reference size for analyzing side appearance of women apparel. The structure processing technology influences the coincidence of garment and body figure. With the hilp of three-dimensional CAD software technology of the United States OptiTex, the side of the wirtual model is made taking 165/84A figure model as research object, and the thickness tolerances increase by 0.56 cm, a total increase of 10 times. To obtain the pattern of the structure in the way of the digital draping, the variation of displacement of different process points of the fitted pattern in different thickness of body is observed and the change rule of body planar structure variation and apparel fitted prototype optimization methods is summarized by the analysis method of plane pictures stacking. The result shows that with the thickness of body increases by 0.56 cm, the bust, waist, and chest are in arithmetic increase.The variation of fitted pattern in lateral dimension is larger than the vertical size. The front and rear waist darts, shoulder dart, etc. will all increase accordingly.

No related articles found!
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited

  Shared   
  Discussed   
[1] 郑秀实. 弹性喷胶棉技术鉴定会[J]. 纺织学报, 1987, 8(01): 20 .
[2] 罗欣;迟克栋;江红;吴慧莉. 纺织品与塑料薄膜层压粘合研究[J]. 纺织学报, 2004, 25(03): 50 -51 .
[3] 李伟. 生丝张力的声学测试方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2005, 26(5): 88 -89 .
[4] 潘旭伟;顾新建;韩永生;程耀东. 面向协同的服装供应链快速反应机制研究[J]. 纺织学报, 2006, 27(1): 54 -57 .
[5] 牛增元;房丽萍.;杨桂朋;薛秋红;王境堂;孙忠松. 纺织品中邻苯二甲酸酯类环境激素在人工汗液中的迁移[J]. 纺织学报, 2006, 27(2): 74 -77 .
[6] 朱泽飞;林建忠. 纤维状粒子在气流场中的受力状况研究[J]. 纺织学报, 2000, 21(05): 8 -10 .
[7] 沈勇;孙铠. 纤维素酶对纤维素纤维吸附参数的研究[J]. 纺织学报, 2000, 21(05): 21 -24 .
[8] 梁静;戴瑾瑾. 氧等离子体对丙纶涂料印花性能的研究[J]. 纺织学报, 2004, 25(04): 51 -53 .
[9] 马新敏;于伟东. 织物结构对PBT/PET复合纤维收缩性的影响[J]. 纺织学报, 2005, 26(1): 54 -55 .
[10] 吕柏祥;孙冰俏. 一些影响纤维静电因素的测定[J]. 纺织学报, 1984, 5(09): 5 -10 .