纺织学报 ›› 2016, Vol. 37 ›› Issue (10): 94-100.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

青年女性肩部弯度特征及对贴体女上装结构影响

  

  • 收稿日期:2015-07-07 修回日期:2016-05-09 出版日期:2016-10-15 发布日期:2016-10-31

Camber features of women's shoulder and influence thereof on fitted clothes' structure

  • Received:2015-07-07 Revised:2016-05-09 Online:2016-10-15 Published:2016-10-31

摘要:

为获得最佳的着装美观和舒适性,通过三维人体测量方法获得肩部有关数据,并利用SPSS 分析软件对所测数据进行整理分析,以肩部横向弯曲度为研究对象,建立肩部参数对象,即肩弓系数,分析得出其值介于 0.702 与 0.912 之间;通过对肩弓进行聚类分析获得3 类不同弯曲度肩型,再结合肩斜将肩部造型整合得出 9 种不同造型;通过对肩弓与肩宽进行相关性分析得出负相关性;通过运用 OptiTex 软件中三维试衣功能建立肩弓模型,分析不同肩弓弯度对着装外观的影响,并通过三维立体裁剪技术获得不同样板纸样,对纸样中各工艺点的位移变化进行分析,总结得出不同肩弓弧度对贴体性上衣的领窝弧线长度和位置、衣身袖笼弧线和肩线的长度均会产生影响,其中对后领窝线长度影响最为显著,即随着肩弓弧度增加,后领窝弧线长度以均值 0.3 cm 逐渐增加。

关键词: 人体测量, 青年女性, 肩部弯度, 上装结构

Abstract:

In order to obtain a better effect of structure design, in this paper, based on the 3-D human body measurement, relevant data about shoulder are acquireda and the SPSS analysis software is used to analyze these data. The parameter named shoulder arch is established to study shoulder horizontal camber, which value is between 0.702 and 0.912 . By the way of clustering analyzing the shoulder arch is analyzed and different shouledr models are acquired, adn by combining with the shoulder's slope classification standard, 9 different shoulders models are acquired finally.  By the correlation analysis, the negative relationship between shoulder arch and shoulder width is acquired. By using 3-D fitting function in OptiTex software different shoulder arch models are set up to analyze the effect of different shoulder arches on the dress, and by the three-dimensional cutting technology, different sample patterns are acquired. The change of process points in pattern is analyzed and the effect of different shoulder arch on the design is concluded, for example effect on neckline about it's length and position, on clothes body's sleeve arc line and on shoulder line length, and the most significant effect is on the back-neckline length, with the increase of the should arch, the back-neckline length gradually increased by an average value of 0.3 cm.

Key words: body measurement, female youth, shoulder arch, upper garment pattern

[1] 吴尚 齐琳 周双喜 尚笑梅. 非接触式测量获取背部图形的拟合及其验证[J]. 纺织学报, 2018, 39(04): 111-115.
[2] 王军 李晓久 潘力 姚彤 于佐君. 东北地区青年女性腰臀部体型特征与分类[J]. 纺织学报, 2018, 39(04): 106-110.
[3] 李臻颖 苏军强 吴志明. 青年女体三维扫描数据的特征围度计算方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2017, 38(05): 110-114.
[4] 刘咏梅 张小雪 郭云昕. 国内外服装用人体数据库调查与分析[J]. 纺织学报, 2015, 36(06): 141-0.
[5] 石小强 王宏付. 青年女性臀部高度特征分析[J]. 纺织学报, 2015, 36(05): 74-78.
[6] 张吉生 吴志明 储云明. 经编无缝女束身上衣的塑身性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2014, 35(3): 109-0.
[7] 李晓志 李晓久. 基于部位划分的三维人体曲面模型的构建[J]. 纺织学报, 2013, 34(9): 145-0.
[8] 王晓霞 戴建国 王春霞 端丹. 青年女性体表角度分析[J]. 纺织学报, 2013, 34(7): 106-110.
[9] 陈益松 夏明 林琳. 光栅相移法用于三维人体测量的实验研究[J]. 纺织学报, 2013, 34(6): 83-87.
[10] 王永进. 动态人体尺寸的测量方法[J]. 纺织学报, 2013, 34(4): 104-110.
[11] 何姗姗 唐虹 魏巍. 江浙地区女青年人体美的主客观评价[J]. 纺织学报, 2013, 34(12): 96-0.
[12] 王珊珊 王鸿博. 基于三维人体测量的江浙在职男青年颈部形态[J]. 纺织学报, 2013, 34(10): 131-0.
[13] 张秀, 王宏付. 基于三维人体测量的青年女性裆底高特征探讨[J]. 纺织学报, 2012, 33(7): 100-103.
[14] 张宁, 王宏付. 基于三维人体测量的江浙女模特体型分类[J]. 纺织学报, 2012, 33(6): 71-75.
[15] 黄灿艺. 福建地区青年女性体型划分与尺寸分档[J]. 纺织学报, 2012, 33(5): 111-115.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited

  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!