纺织学报 ›› 2018, Vol. 39 ›› Issue (05): 97-102.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20170702606

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

叠褶在服装造型中的应用

  

  • 收稿日期:2017-07-06 修回日期:2018-01-21 出版日期:2018-05-15 发布日期:2018-05-10

Application of double pleat in apparel modeling

  • Received:2017-07-06 Revised:2018-01-21 Online:2018-05-15 Published:2018-05-10

摘要:

针对叠褶立体造型手法在服装设计与工艺中的应用技巧的刻板、单一等问题,对叠褶的基本形式与构成进行了分析,归纳了叠褶的不同分类和造型特征。通过实验、实证论述了叠褶造型变化与创新的思路方法,分别阐述了叠褶的形态变化、聚集变化、扭曲变化、旋转变化所产生的不同形态效果。通过对各类叠褶应用的具体案例进一步解析了叠褶在服装立体造型中的理念表达及应用效果,总结了叠褶用于服装上应该注意的工艺制作要点及应用规律与技巧,深入探讨了叠褶在服装造型中的构成技术与衍生形态。从创新实践中解读叠褶的造型方法与设计思维,总结褶饰的应用规律与技巧,拓展其应用领域。

关键词: 叠褶, 服装造型, 叠褶组合, 叠褶叠加, 叠褶缀饰, 叠褶扭曲扭转

Abstract:

Aim at the problem that the applications of spatial sculpt of double pleat in fashion design and technology were inflexible and simple, the basic forms and components of double pleat were analyzed, and the characteristics of double pleat classification and modeling are summarized. The methods for styling changes and innovation of double pleat were stated based on experiments and demonstrations. The influences of form change, aggregation change, twisting change and rotation change were elaborated. The idea expressions and application effects of using double pleat in draping for fashion were further investigated based on an application cases of double pleat. The key points, application law and skills of craft making when using double pleat in fashion design are summarized, and the constitute technology and derivative forms for double pleat application in fashion design were discussed in detail. The modeling method and design thinking of double pleat are interpreted from the innovation practice. The application rules and techniques of ruffles aresummarized, and its application field is expanded.

Key words: double pleat, apparel modeling, double pleat group, double pleat superposition, double poeat deoration, double pleat twisting and rotation

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