纺织学报 ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (09): 108-113.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20191203107

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

亚洲男士西服基本纸样自动生成系统的建立

凌雅丽1,2, 朱凌轩1,2, 邵晓煊1,2, 李泽辉1,2, 钟安华1,2()   

  1. 1.武汉纺织大学 服装学院, 湖北 武汉 430073
    2.湖北省虚拟仿真实验室, 湖北 武汉 430073
  • 收稿日期:2019-12-13 修回日期:2020-06-18 出版日期:2020-09-15 发布日期:2020-09-25
  • 通讯作者: 钟安华
  • 作者简介:凌雅丽(1997—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为服装人体工学、服装数字化。
  • 基金资助:
    湖北省教育厅科技项目(D20121707);湖北省虚拟仿真实验室建设项目(D141091003)

Development of automatic pattern generation system for Asian men's suits

LING Yali1,2, ZHU Lingxuan1,2, SHAO Xiaoxuan1,2, LI Zehui1,2, ZHONG Anhua1,2()   

  1. 1. School of Fashion, Wuhan Textile University, Wuhan, Hubei 430073, China
    2. Laboratory of Virtual Simulation in Hubei Province, Wuhan, Hubei 430073, China
  • Received:2019-12-13 Revised:2020-06-18 Online:2020-09-15 Published:2020-09-25
  • Contact: ZHONG Anhua

摘要:

为满足服装企业对制版系统高度智能化的要求,以亚洲男士西服为例构建纸样自动生成系统。首先选取10个亚洲品牌的30件男士西服作为样本,以手工测量的16个细部尺寸数据为基础,运用SPSS数据统计软件对其进行主成分因子分析、相关性分析和回归分析,建立西服纸样参数化设计数学模型,并以MatLab为平台编程,结合西服纸样数学模型及制版方法设计自动生成系统。结果表明:胸围是影响西服版型的关键参数,前衣长、后衣长、腰围、下摆围与胸围的相关性最强;以胸围为自变量所建立的参数化数学模型可用于西服纸样自动生成系统编程,程序优化后的自动生成系统只需输入胸围尺寸就可得到西服版型,初步实现男士西服基本纸样的自动生成。

关键词: 亚洲男士西服, 西服纸样, 参数化设计, 自动生成系统

Abstract:

In order to satisfy the requirements for smart pattern making, an automatic generation system for suits' pattern was developed. Firstly, 30 classic men's suits of 10 brands in Asia were selected for study. Based on the 16 detailed size data of the suits, the principal component factor analysis, correlation analysis and regression analysis were carried out using SPSS. Based on the regression equation obtained from the analysis, the parameterized design mathematical model of the suit pattern was established. MatLab was used as the platform of programming to develop the automatic pattern generation system, combining the mathematical model of the suit pattern of the suit and the method of plate making. The results show that bust is the key parameter that affects the suits' pattern, and the correlation between front length, back length, waist circumference, hem circumference and bust is the strongest. The parameterized mathematical model based on bust as an independent variable can be used to program the automatic pattern generation system of suit pattern, and the optimized automatic pattern generation system is able to output the suit pattern by inputting the size of the bust, facilitating initially the automatic generation of the basic pattern of men's suits.

Key words: Asian men's suits, suit pattern, parametric design, automatic generation system

中图分类号: 

  • TS941.2

表1

旋转成分矩阵"

指标 成分
1 2 3 4 5 6
胸围 0.899 0.044 -0.113 0.194 0.175 0.046
下摆围 0.892 -0.036 0.025 0.079 0.327 0.097
后衣长 0.829 0.134 0.334 -0.192 -0.096 -0.099
前衣长 0.781 0.066 0.514 -0.093 -0.091 -0.024
腰围 0.605 0.286 -0.122 0.189 0.320 0.098
驳嘴宽度 0.024 0.920 0.207 0.069 0.055 -0.136
驳头宽度 0.088 0.778 0.261 -0.068 -0.270 0.107
口袋高度 0.152 0.736 -0.171 -0.086 0.133 0.277
后领口尺寸 -0.023 0.144 0.814 0.004 0.353 0.051
前底领宽 0.391 0.118 0.558 0.546 -0.026 0.263
胸省长度 0.252 0.190 0.520 0.003 0.253 0.436
后翻领宽 -0.032 0.081 0.157 0.877 -0.222 -0.139
后底领宽 0.081 -0.163 -0.168 0.837 0.081 0.130
肩宽 0.180 0.008 0.213 -0.073 0.839 0.187
口袋长度 0.270 -0.125 0.278 -0.150 0.580 -0.352
驳头直线长度 0.010 0.076 0.126 0.029 0.020 0.914

表2

总方差解释"

公因子 特征值 方差百分比/% 累积百分比/%
1 4.771 29.819 29.819
2 2.233 13.956 43.774
3 2.013 12.583 56.357
4 1.549 9.678 66.036
5 1.267 7.922 73.957
6 1.005 6.280 80.237
7 0.772 4.825 85.061
8 0.737 4.608 89.669
9 0.480 3.001 92.670
10 0.357 2.231 94.901
11 0.244 1.523 96.424
12 0.210 1.310 97.734
13 0.153 0.955 98.688
14 0.105 0.659 99.348
15 0.070 0.436 99.783
16 0.035 0.217 100.000

表3

回归模型系数与系数估计值汇总"

因变量 自变量 非标准化系数 标准系数 T检验值 Sig.
(显著性)
共线性统计
容许
(1/VIF)
VIF
(方差膨胀因子)
回归系数 标准错误 标准回归系数
前衣长 常量 54.456 4.924 11.059 0.000
胸围 0.176 0.047 0.586 3.761 0.001 1.000 1.000
后衣长 常量 50.291 5.201 9.669 0.000
胸围 0.206 0.049 0.626 4.173 0.000 1.000 1.000
腰围 常量 45.846 13.745 3.335 0.002
胸围 0.479 0.130 0.577 3.674 0.001 1.000 1.000
下摆围 常量 47.434 5.820 8.151 0.000
胸围 0.569 0.055 0.893 10.314 0.000 1.000 1.000

图1

男士西服基本纸样及各控制点坐标"

表4

男士西服版型各控制点坐标"

坐标点 坐标参数
P1 [(x-5)/4,0.58(0.206x+50.291)-1/3×x/12]
P2 [(x-5)/4,0.58(0.206x+50.291)-1/3×x/12-      (x/6+4.5)2]
P3 [(x-5)/4-1,0.58(0.206x+50.291)-1/3×x/12-(x/6+4.5)/2]
P4 [(x-5)/4-2,0]
P5 [(x-5)/4-2,-0.42(0.206x+50.291)]
? ?
P39 [-(x-5)/4-9,-8]
P40 [-(x-5)/4+9+15,-7]
P41 [-(x-5)/4+9+15,-12]
P42 [-(x-5)/4+9,-13]

图2

男士西服基本纸样自动生成界面"

表5

自动生成系统制版与成衣尺寸对比"

款式编号 来源 胸围/cm 前衣长/cm 后衣长/cm 腰围/cm 下摆围/cm
1 A 98 71.5 70 92 103
B 71.704 70.479 92.788 103.196
2 A 104 72 71.5 94 108
B 72.76 71.715 95.662 106.61
3 A 110 73 72.5 98 110
B 73.816 72.951 98.536 110.024
4 A 116 75 74.3 102 112
B 74.872 74.187 101.41 113.438

图3

不同西服胸围自动生成系统制版与富怡CAD制版对比"

图4

优化后男士西服基本纸样自动生成界面"

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