纺织学报 ›› 2025, Vol. 46 ›› Issue (06): 187-195.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20241103001

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

基于三维试衣的凸肚体男西裤样板的优化

纪梦琪1, 何瑛1,2(), 马咏倩1   

  1. 1.浙江理工大学 服装学院, 浙江 杭州 310018
    2.丝绸文化传承与产品设计数字化技术文化和旅游部重点实验室, 浙江 杭州 310018
  • 收稿日期:2024-11-12 修回日期:2025-02-25 出版日期:2025-06-15 发布日期:2025-07-02
  • 通讯作者: 何瑛(1978—),女,副教授,硕士。主要研究方向为服装数字化技术。E-mail:daisy_jacky@163.com。
  • 作者简介:纪梦琪(1999—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为服装数字化技术。
  • 基金资助:
    浙江省服装工程技术研究中心开放基金项目(2018FZKF13)

Optimization of trousers patterns for men with protruding abdomen based on three-dimensional fitting

JI Mengqi1, HE Ying1,2(), MA Yongqian1   

  1. 1. School of Fashion Design & Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Silk Culture Inheritance and Product Design Digitization Technology, Ministry of Culture and Tourism, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
  • Received:2024-11-12 Revised:2025-02-25 Published:2025-06-15 Online:2025-07-02

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摘要： 为解决男性凸肚体型西裤适配性不足问题,以优化男西裤结构、改善西裤合体性和舒适性为目的,提出一种基于三维试衣技术对凸肚体男西裤样板优化的方法。用CLO-3D构建7个不同腰围尺寸的男性凸肚体虚拟模特,通过对模特体表立裁、纸样拟合,对重度凸肚体型腰围与下肢关键围度进行回归分析,确定前裤片中心点外移量、下落量等6种关键调节参数和前腰围、后腰围等6种关键结构参数的变更规则,得到重度凸肚体男西裤样板参数优化方法。通过虚拟试衣及真人试衣实验对该方法进行验证。结果表明:优化后的男西裤针对凸肚体型前腰腹部及前臀处受力面积变小,压力值趋于0 kPa,压力感减弱,舒适度提高,前腰围及前臀围处无明显紧绷现象,腰腹部外观美观度和合体度得到提升。

关键词: 重度凸肚, 特殊体型, 西裤结构, 三维虚拟试衣, 样板优化, 服装制版

Abstract:

Objective In order to solve the problem of insufficient fit of men's trousers with protruding abdomen, a method for optimizing the trousers patterns for this group of men is proposed with the purpose of optimizing the structure of men's pants and improving the fit and comfort of the trousers based on three-dimensional fitting technology. Parametric modeling of men's trousers patterns with CLO-3D technology for men with protruding abdomen was carried out. This parameter optimization design provides useful reference for the structural design of men's trousers with special body type in the production process.

Method CLO-3D was used to construct seven virtual models with different waist sizes for men, and the regression analysis of waist circumference and critical circumference of lower limbs of men with abdominal obesity was carried out through model body surface standing cut and paper pattern fitting, and the method was verified through the virtual try-on experiments and real-life try-on experiments.

Results By constructing a model with a protruding belly and performing surface draping and pattern fitting, it was observed that the contours of the front and back pieces change proportionally as the degree of the belly protrusion increases. Specifically, the front center point, back center point, and the circumference change at one-third of the front crotch depth (belly allowance) showed significant and balanced variations in circumference. The side waist points exhibited noticeable and proportional changes in height, while both the front and back center points displayed clear proportional changes in both circumference and height. Treating the front waist measurement as a dependent variable and the back waist measurement as an independent variable, the regression coefficient for the back waist measurement was solved, revealing a distribution ratio of 5∶4 between the front and back waist measurements. Using the hip measurement as the independent variable and six key adjustment parameters and four key structural parameters as dependent variables, regression analysis showed a significant linear relationship between these parameters and the hip measurement, with a high degree of fit for the regression model. Based on this, a total of six key regulating parameters and six key structural parameters were derived as the rules for the variation. Considering the characteristics of men's trousers structural design, the regression equations were appropriately simplified to derive optimization rules for men's suit trousers tailored to protruding bellies. Using CLO-3D software for virtual fitting of the optimized trouser patterns, the results indicated that the stress area on the front waist and abdomen, as well as the front hip, was reduced, with pressure values approaching 0 kPa, resulting in reduced pressure sensation and improved comfort. Static and dynamic fitting trials on real individuals with protruding bellies showed high evaluations from participants regarding comfort and aesthetics.

Conclusion To address the issue of poor adaptability of men's suit trousers for individuals with protruding bellies, this study utilized three-dimensional virtual fitting technology to construct a model of a male with a severe protruding belly. Surface draping was employed to obtain the model's surface data, and through the analysis of two-dimensional pattern fitting, parametric optimization rules for men's suit trousers tailored to severe protruding bellies were established. The accuracy and feasibility of these optimization rules were verified through virtual fitting experiments and real-life fitting trials. The research content and results hold significant implications for shortening product production cycles, reducing energy consumption, and improving the accuracy and fit of pattern adjustments for suit trousers designed for individuals with protruding bellies.

Key words: protruding abdomen, special body type, trousers structure, 3-D virtual fitting, pattern optimization, garment pattern making

中图分类号: 

  • TS941.718

图1

裤装结构线与人体特征点(线)对应关系"

图2

下肢关键部位"

表1

凸肚体样本模特关键部位数据"

模特编号 腰围 上臀围 下臀围 大腿围 胸腰差
V0 87.00 88.19 94.34 55.55 5.00
V1 89.42 89.13 94.86 55.81 2.58
V2 91.98 90.55 95.31 56.13 0.02
V3 94.52 91.93 96.03 56.44 -2.52
V4 97.00 93.19 96.52 56.77 -5.00
V5 99.49 94.51 97.07 57.07 -7.49
V6 101.99 95.82 97.64 57.83 -9.99

图3

男性凸肚体三维模特侧视图"

图4

普通男西裤围度结构分配示意图"

表2

凸肚体样板关键参数"

模特
编号		 前腰
围		 后腰
围		 前臀
围		 后臀
围		 前裆
宽		 后裆
宽		 前直
裆		 后直
裆
V0 24.165 19.335 24.575 22.595 4.700 9.530 31.733 32.899
V1 24.830 19.880 24.717 22.713 4.750 9.590 31.583 32.699
V2 25.540 20.450 24.830 22.825 4.770 9.630 31.430 32.579
V3 26.225 21.005 25.054 22.961 4.800 9.700 31.280 32.259
V4 26.942 21.558 25.130 23.130 4.830 9.750 31.130 32.099
V5 27.637 22.108 25.267 23.268 4.860 9.800 30.980 31.979
V6 28.331 22.664 25.412 23.408 4.880 9.900 30.822 31.819

图5

体表立裁纸样获取流程示意图"

图6

前后裤片平面样板拟合图"

表3

关键调节参数位移变化"

模特
编号		 前片 后片
A点
外移量/
cm		 A点
下落量/
cm		 B点
下落量/
cm		 肚量/
cm		 后裆
斜度/
(°)		 后起
翘量/
cm
V0 0.65 1.90 1.00 0.38 10.79 2.40
V1 0.77 2.08 1.20 0.50 8.57 2.26
V2 0.95 2.29 1.32 0.60 7.61 2.10
V3 1.07 2.47 1.48 0.71 6.12 2.00
V4 1.21 2.65 1.64 0.83 4.25 1.82
V5 1.34 2.85 1.80 0.96 2.28 1.66
V6 1.48 3.01 1.98 1.03 0.25 1.55
平均
增量		 0.14 0.19 0.16 0.11 -1.75 -0.14

表4

关键调节参数与臀围回归分析"

因变量 变量 未标准化系数 标准化系数 t P R2 调整后R2
B 标准误差
A点
外移量		 常量 -22.903 0.796 — -28.776 0.000 0.995 0.993
H* 0.250 0.008 0.997 30.119 0.000
A点
下落量		 常量 -29.780 0.847 — -35.174 0.000 0.997 0.996
H* 0.336 0.009 0.998 38.087 0.000
B点
下落量		 常量 -26.024 0.750 — -34.718 0.000 0.996 0.996
H* 0.287 0.008 0.998 36.706 0.000
肚量 常量 -18.402 0.603 — -30.529 0.000 0.995 0.994
H* 0.199 0.006 0.998 31.718 0.000
后裆
斜度		 常量 299.049 13.335 — 22.329 0.000 0.990 0.988
H* -3.057 0.139 -0.995 -21.967 0.000
后起
翘量		 常量 26.788 0.997 — 26.868 0.000 0.992 0.990
H* -0.259 0.101 -0.996 -24.894 0.000

表5

关键结构参数与臀围回归分析"

因变量 变量 未标准化系数 标准化系数 t P R2 调整后R2
B 标准误差
前臀围 常量 0.804 0.650 — 1.237 0.000 0.996 0.996
H* 0.252 0.007 0.998 37.209 0.000
前裆宽 常量 -0.254 0.278 — -0.915 0.402 0.985 0.982
H* 0.053 0.003 0.993 18.186 0.000
后臀围 常量 -0.804 0.650 — -1.237 0.271 0.996 0.996
H* 0.248 0.007 0.998 36.589 0.000
后裆宽 常量 -0.497 0.457 — -1.087 0.327 0.990 0.988
H* 0.106 0.005 0.995 22.315 0.000

表6

凸肚体男西裤样板优化前后变更规则对比"

关键调节参数 优化前变更规则 优化后变更规则 关键结构参数 优化前变更规则 优化后变更规则
A点外移量/cm -0.7 0.25H*-22.903 前腰围/cm W/4-1 5W/18
A点下落量/cm 0 0.336H*-29.780 前臀围/cm H/4-1 H/4+1
B点下落量/cm 0 0.287H*-26.024 前裆宽/cm H/20-1 H/20
肚量/cm 0 0.199H*-18.402 后腰围/cm W/4+1 4W/18
后档斜度/(°) 10~12 -3.057H*+299.049 后臀围/cm H/4+1 H/4-1
后起翘量/cm 2.5~3.5 -0.259H*+26.788 后裆宽/cm H/10 H/10

图7

凸肚体男西裤样板优化前后结构对比"

图8

优化前后压力分布对比"

图9

优化前后试穿状态分布对比"

图10

V0~V6优化前后压力分布"

图11

V0~V6优化前试穿状态分布"

表7

V0~V6着装满意度主观评价(平均分)"

模特
标号		 整体款式
效果		 外观
平整度		 接缝部位
美观度		 整体
满意度
V0 8 7 9 8
V1 7 7.5 9 7.5
V2 7.5 8 8.5 8
V3 7 8 9 8
V4 6.5 7.5 8 7.5
V5 7 7.5 8.5 7.5
V6 7 7 8.5 7

图12

静态试衣效果图"

图13

动态试衣效果图"

表8

受试者试衣满意度主观评价结果"

试衣
状态		 有无紧绷
现象		 有无
牵扯感		 外观
美观度		 穿着
舒适度		 整体
满意度
静态 无 无 7 8 8
动态 无 无 6.5 8 7.5
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