纺织学报 ›› 2012, Vol. 33 ›› Issue (3): 102-107.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

近代江南地区民间大襟袄制作工艺

陈道玲,张竞琼   

  1. 江南大学纺织服装学院
  • 收稿日期:2011-05-04 修回日期:2011-08-14 出版日期:2012-03-15 发布日期:2012-03-06
  • 通讯作者: 张竞琼 E-mail:j.q.chang@126.com
  • 基金资助:

    省级

The Workmanship of Modern Folk Side Opening Coat in Jiangnan Area

 CHEN  Dao-Ling, ZHANG  Jing-Qiong   

  • Received:2011-05-04 Revised:2011-08-14 Online:2012-03-15 Published:2012-03-06
  • Contact: ZHANG Jing-Qiong E-mail:j.q.chang@126.com

摘要: 本文针对近代江南地区民间大襟袄的制作工艺进行了研究分析。通过对江南地区民间服饰工艺传人的调研,对制作近代大襟袄的材料包括面料、里料、衬料、填充料、浆糊、缝线等;以及制作大襟袄的裁剪工艺流程裁衣身、裁接袖袖片、挖领子、开大襟、裁里襟、裁贴边、裁领子和裁扣子料和缝制工艺找袖缝、刮浆、缝合、裁里子、装填充物、做领子、钉一字扣和开衩处打套结,逐一进行了记录、复原、分析与研究,并部分做了详细的图示;江南地区人们独特的审美观和巧妙的制作工艺,充分的反映了当地人们对于服装的穿着舒适性的极高要求和工匠的聪明才智。

Abstract: This article aims to carry out research and analysis the workmanship of modern folk side opening coat in jiangnan area. Through visiting the masters who use the traditional ways to make folk coats in jiangnan area,the record and analysis and research the material to make modern folk side opening coat which include fabric,lining,stuffing,paste,thread and so on; and cutting techniques include cutting body,sleeves,collar, side opening ,cutting under fly, facing and button material and sewing technique include, sew up sleeve seam,starched,sewing,cutting linning,fill stuffing ,self collar,sew button and bar tack at slit , record, demobilization, analysis and research and part of these process have been illustrated by diagrams ; Jiangnan region people taste is unique and skilful production process, fully reflect the local people high demand for the comfort of wearing and craftsmen intelligence.

中图分类号: 

  • TS941.6
[1] 蒋培清 赖毅飞 陈献珊. 超声波缝合涤纶织物缝口的力学性能[J]. 纺织学报, 2013, 34(10): 127-0.
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