Abstract:

In view of the problem whether pure knitted wool fabrics can be dried in a dryer or not, influences of hang-drying model, single clockwise direction rotating-drying model and alternating clockwise and counterclockwise rotating-drying model on pilling of pure knitted wool fabrics were investigated by pilling tester, scanning electron microscopy, X-ray diffraction and Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric (KES-FB)．The results show that pilling and morphology of wool fiber are significantly affected by the direction of rotating. In addition, different rotating-drying models only damage in pilling and microstructure of fiber instead of the wool fiber chemical composition and molecular structure. The drying maximum damage is obtained undre clockwise direction rotating condition, the surface scales of wool fibers are partially cleaved, some grooves generate on the surface, and surface hairiness increases. Bending stiffness decreases significantly. Combined with the drying energy consumption and drying time, alternating clockwise and counterclockwise rotating-drying model is optimal for pure wool fabric.

Key words: drying abrasion, drying, wool fabric, pilling, fracture, distortion