Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (06): 85-90.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180604206

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Design principle of secant line for whole garment sweater based on narrowing process

LI Ke, WU Zhiming()   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2018-06-11 Revised:2018-12-25 Online:2019-06-15 Published:2019-06-25
  • Contact: WU Zhiming E-mail:wxwuzm@163.com

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Abstract:

In order to enrich the design of whole garment, the Shima seiki MACH2XS15312G four bed flat knitting machine was used as the experimental equipment, combined with the SDS-ONE APEX 3 design system to study the design principle of the whole garment dividing line. The principle of splitting line forming was discussed from three kinds of narrowing methods: the stitching process, the ratio-receiving process and the rotating process. The whole garment long-sleeve V-neck dress was taken as an example to discuss the application of the whole garment narrowing process to form the dividing line. The results show that the needle folding process is suitable for the forming of dart and pleating to form straight line segmentation. The ratio needle drawing process is used for armhole braiding to form curve segmentation, and the rotation technique is suitable for before and after size difference. At the same time, the problem of the damage of the knitting stitch and the unevenness of the seam after the stitching are solved by the barrel knitting process.

Key words: ratio narrowing, stacking needles, rotating process, secant-line, design principle, whole garment sequence of sweater

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.64

Fig.1

Body knitting ratio"

Fig.2

Schematic diagram of splicing"

Fig.3

Unilateral clockwise rotation process. (a) First row knitting; (b) Second row knitting; (c) Third row knitting; (d) Fourth row weaving"

Fig.4

Dart of the whole garment. (a) Shoulder dart of horizontal weaving;(b) Waist dart of longitudinal knitting"

Fig.5

Schematic diagram of pleat. (a) Flat pleat; (b) Converse pleat; (c) Box pleat"

Fig.6

Splicing design. (a) Application of splicing in collar; (b) Application of splicing in hem"

Fig.7

Sleeve holes of different body parts at different weaving rates"

Fig.8

Rotator cuff stitch"

Fig.9

Twist yarn ring"

Fig.10

Long V-neck dress"

Fig.11

Knitting process"

Fig.12

Sleeve mountain weaving ratio row number"

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