Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (09): 150-158.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180908309

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Diagram of biarc and its application in design of garment seam outline

LOU Shaohong()   

  1. Art Institute, Hubei Polytechnic University, Huangshi, Hubei 435003
  • Received:2018-09-30 Revised:2019-06-13 Online:2019-09-15 Published:2019-09-23

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Abstract:

In order to solve randomness and excessive reliance on empirical components in the design of clothing seams outline, realize the parameterization of the clothing seams outline, and construct the basic theory of biarc for the design of the clothing seams outline, the concept of the tangent length ratio to ensure the smoothness of the clothing seams outline was put forward based on the analyses of the geometrical relations of the biarc starting and ending points and the trajectory of the connecting points, the type and composition of the biarc in each interval under different conditions by graph method. The selection method of biarc connection points for the design of clothing seams outline and the drawing method of biarc were given. Based on this, the practical application of front and rear crotch seam lines and rear lateral seam lines of trousers with C type and S type biarc designs was carried out. The results show that the design of the seam line by biarc curve is simple and feasible, and the shape is round and reliable. It is convenient not only to accurately grasp the shape of the seam outline during manual garment pattern making, but also to perform the parametric design of the garment template using the AutoCAD parameter function.

Key words: biarc, garment seams outline, crotch seam, posterolateral seam, AutoCAD, parameterization

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.19

Fig.1

Biarc of C-type (a) and S-type (b)"

Fig.2

K1 is located outside P1P2 and direction of t1 and t2 is consistent. (a) t1 Points to K1, t2 is backward K1; (b) t1 is backward K1, t2 points to K1"

Fig.3

K1 is located outside P1P2,and t1 and t2 are back to back (a) or face to face (b)"

Tab.1

Type and composition of biarc(K1 is located outside P1P2 direction of t1 and t2 is consistent)"

区间 双圆弧
类型		 β 取值
范围		 双圆弧的组成
K1P1<K1P2或K1P1>K1P2,
t1指向K1而t2背向K1		 K1P1<K1P2或K1P1>K1P2,
t1背向K1而t2指向K1
B(1) C型 (0°,180°) 劣弧 优弧
(0°,180°-γ] 劣弧 优弧
劣弧 优弧
B(2) S型 (180°-γ,180°) 劣弧+半圆 优弧+半圆
劣弧+优弧 优弧+劣弧
优弧 劣弧
B(3) C型 (0°,180°) 优弧+半圆 劣弧+半圆
优弧+劣弧 劣弧+优弧
B(4) S型 (0°,180°) 劣弧+优弧 劣弧+优弧

Tab.2

Type and composition of biarc(K1 is located outside P1P2,and t1 and t2 are back to back or face to face)"

区间 双圆弧
类型		 β 取值
范围		 双圆弧的组成
K1P1<K1P2且t1与t2相背,
或者K1P1>K1P2且t1与t2相对		 K1P1<K1P2且t1与t2相对,
或者K1P1>K1P2且t1与t2相背
(0°,γ] 劣弧 优弧
劣弧 优弧
B(1) S型 (γ,180°) 劣弧+半圆 优弧+半圆
劣弧+优弧 优弧+劣弧
优弧+劣弧 劣弧+优弧
B(2) C型 (0°,180°) 优弧+半圆 劣弧+半圆
优弧 劣弧
B(3) S型 (0°,180°) 优弧+劣弧 优弧+劣弧
B(4) C型 (0°,180°) 优弧+劣弧 优弧+劣弧

Fig.4

K1 and P1 coincide and t1 and t2 direction is consistent (a) or back to back (b)"

Tab.3

Type and composition of biarc(K1 in coincidence with P1 or P2)"

区间 双圆弧
类型		 β 取值
范围		 双圆弧的组成
K1P1=0且t1与t2相顺,或者K1P2=0
且t1与t2相背		 K1P1=0且t1与t2相背,或者K1P2=0
且t1与t2相顺
(0°,90°] 优弧 劣弧
优弧 劣弧
E(1) S型 (90°,180°) 优弧+半圆 劣弧+半圆
优弧+劣弧 劣弧+优弧
劣弧+优弧 优弧+劣弧
E(2) C型 (0°,180°) 劣弧+半圆 优弧+半圆
劣弧 优弧
E(3) S型 (0°,180°) 劣弧+优弧 劣弧+优弧

Fig.5

Tangential parallel of starting and ending points. (a) t1 is parallel to t2 in same direction;(b) t1 is reversely parallel to t2"

Tab.4

Type and composition of biarc(t1 and t2 are parallel in the same direction)"

区间 双圆弧类型 α取值范围 双圆弧的组成
(0°,90°) 劣弧
(P1,P2) S型 90° 半圆
(90°,180°) 优弧
(0°,90°) 劣弧+优弧
(P2,∞) C型 90° 半圆
(90°,180°) 劣弧+优弧
(0°,90°) 劣弧+优弧
(P1,∞) C型 90° 半圆
(90°,180°) 劣弧+优弧

Tab.5

Type and composition of biarc (t1 and t2 are reversely parallel)"

区间 双圆弧类型 α取值范围 双圆弧的组成
(P1',P2) C型 (0°,180°) 劣弧
(P2,P2') S型 (0°,90°) 劣弧+优弧
(90°,180°) 劣弧+优弧
(P2',P1) C型 (0°,180°) 优弧
(P1,P1') S型 (0°,90°) 劣弧+优弧
(90°,180°) 劣弧+优弧

Fig.6

Center method for drawing C-type biarc"

Fig.7

Three kinds of construction situations commonly used for S-type biarc. (a) Intersected and direction consistent; (b) Intersected and direction back to back; (c) Coincide and direction back to back"

Fig.8

Front and back trouser crotch seam of wide leg trousers"

Fig.9

Back outseam line of tapered trousers(a), straight-legged trousers (b) and bell-bottom trousers (c)"

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