Journal of Textile Research ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (09): 108-113.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20191203107

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Development of automatic pattern generation system for Asian men's suits

LING Yali1,2, ZHU Lingxuan1,2, SHAO Xiaoxuan1,2, LI Zehui1,2, ZHONG Anhua1,2()   

  1. 1. School of Fashion, Wuhan Textile University, Wuhan, Hubei 430073, China
    2. Laboratory of Virtual Simulation in Hubei Province, Wuhan, Hubei 430073, China
  • Received:2019-12-13 Revised:2020-06-18 Online:2020-09-15 Published:2020-09-25
  • Contact: ZHONG Anhua E-mail:2512159766@qq.com

RichHTML

9

PDF (PC)

133

Abstract:

In order to satisfy the requirements for smart pattern making, an automatic generation system for suits' pattern was developed. Firstly, 30 classic men's suits of 10 brands in Asia were selected for study. Based on the 16 detailed size data of the suits, the principal component factor analysis, correlation analysis and regression analysis were carried out using SPSS. Based on the regression equation obtained from the analysis, the parameterized design mathematical model of the suit pattern was established. MatLab was used as the platform of programming to develop the automatic pattern generation system, combining the mathematical model of the suit pattern of the suit and the method of plate making. The results show that bust is the key parameter that affects the suits' pattern, and the correlation between front length, back length, waist circumference, hem circumference and bust is the strongest. The parameterized mathematical model based on bust as an independent variable can be used to program the automatic pattern generation system of suit pattern, and the optimized automatic pattern generation system is able to output the suit pattern by inputting the size of the bust, facilitating initially the automatic generation of the basic pattern of men's suits.

Key words: Asian men's suits, suit pattern, parametric design, automatic generation system

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.2

Tab.1

Rotation component matrix"

指标 成分
1 2 3 4 5 6
胸围 0.899 0.044 -0.113 0.194 0.175 0.046
下摆围 0.892 -0.036 0.025 0.079 0.327 0.097
后衣长 0.829 0.134 0.334 -0.192 -0.096 -0.099
前衣长 0.781 0.066 0.514 -0.093 -0.091 -0.024
腰围 0.605 0.286 -0.122 0.189 0.320 0.098
驳嘴宽度 0.024 0.920 0.207 0.069 0.055 -0.136
驳头宽度 0.088 0.778 0.261 -0.068 -0.270 0.107
口袋高度 0.152 0.736 -0.171 -0.086 0.133 0.277
后领口尺寸 -0.023 0.144 0.814 0.004 0.353 0.051
前底领宽 0.391 0.118 0.558 0.546 -0.026 0.263
胸省长度 0.252 0.190 0.520 0.003 0.253 0.436
后翻领宽 -0.032 0.081 0.157 0.877 -0.222 -0.139
后底领宽 0.081 -0.163 -0.168 0.837 0.081 0.130
肩宽 0.180 0.008 0.213 -0.073 0.839 0.187
口袋长度 0.270 -0.125 0.278 -0.150 0.580 -0.352
驳头直线长度 0.010 0.076 0.126 0.029 0.020 0.914

Tab.2

Total variance of interpretation"

公因子 特征值 方差百分比/% 累积百分比/%
1 4.771 29.819 29.819
2 2.233 13.956 43.774
3 2.013 12.583 56.357
4 1.549 9.678 66.036
5 1.267 7.922 73.957
6 1.005 6.280 80.237
7 0.772 4.825 85.061
8 0.737 4.608 89.669
9 0.480 3.001 92.670
10 0.357 2.231 94.901
11 0.244 1.523 96.424
12 0.210 1.310 97.734
13 0.153 0.955 98.688
14 0.105 0.659 99.348
15 0.070 0.436 99.783
16 0.035 0.217 100.000

Tab.3

Regression model coefficients and coefficient estimates"

因变量 自变量 非标准化系数 标准系数 T检验值 Sig.
(显著性)		 共线性统计
容许
(1/VIF)		 VIF
(方差膨胀因子)
回归系数 标准错误 标准回归系数
前衣长 常量 54.456 4.924 11.059 0.000
胸围 0.176 0.047 0.586 3.761 0.001 1.000 1.000
后衣长 常量 50.291 5.201 9.669 0.000
胸围 0.206 0.049 0.626 4.173 0.000 1.000 1.000
腰围 常量 45.846 13.745 3.335 0.002
胸围 0.479 0.130 0.577 3.674 0.001 1.000 1.000
下摆围 常量 47.434 5.820 8.151 0.000
胸围 0.569 0.055 0.893 10.314 0.000 1.000 1.000

Fig.1

Basic pattern of men's suit and coordinates of each control point"

Tab.4

Coordinate parameters of each control point of men's suit type"

坐标点 坐标参数
P1 [(x-5)/4,0.58(0.206x+50.291)-1/3×x/12]
P2 [(x-5)/4,0.58(0.206x+50.291)-1/3×x/12-　　　　　　(x/6+4.5)2]
P3 [(x-5)/4-1,0.58(0.206x+50.291)-1/3×x/12-(x/6+4.5)/2]
P4 [(x-5)/4-2,0]
P5 [(x-5)/4-2,-0.42(0.206x+50.291)]
? ?
P39 [-(x-5)/4-9,-8]
P40 [-(x-5)/4+9+15,-7]
P41 [-(x-5)/4+9+15,-12]
P42 [-(x-5)/4+9,-13]

Fig.2

Automatic generation interface of men's suit pattern"

Tab.5

Comparison of automatic generation system plate making and garment size"

款式编号 来源 胸围/cm 前衣长/cm 后衣长/cm 腰围/cm 下摆围/cm
1 A 98 71.5 70 92 103
B 71.704 70.479 92.788 103.196
2 A 104 72 71.5 94 108
B 72.76 71.715 95.662 106.61
3 A 110 73 72.5 98 110
B 73.816 72.951 98.536 110.024
4 A 116 75 74.3 102 112
B 74.872 74.187 101.41 113.438

Fig.3

Comparison of automatic generation system platemaking and Fuyi CAD plate making comparison"

Fig.4

Adjusted automatic generation interface of men's suit pattern"

[1] 张伶俐, 张皋鹏. 应用MatLab的服装纸样参数化平面制版[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(1):130-135.
ZHANG Lingli, ZHANG Gaopeng. Parametric flat pattern design for clothing based on MatLab[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(1):130-135.
[2] 刘雁, 耿兆丰. 智能技术在服装工业生产中的应用研究[J]. 东华大学学报(自然科学版), 2002, 28(4):124-127.
LIU Yan, GENG Zhaofeng. Applications of intelligence in garment industry[J]. Journal of Donghua Univer-sity(Natural Science), 2002, 28(4):124-127.
[3] 王秀芝, 徐静. 关于开发服装纸样计算机自动生成专家系统的设想[J]. 科技资讯, 2007(8):92.
WANG Xiuzhi, XU Jing. The idea of developing an expert system for automatic generation of garment pattern by computer[J]. Science & Technology Information, 2007(8):92.
[4] 胡长鹏, 张巨俭, 刘瑞璞. 基于VLISP和OpenDCL的西装智能CAD系统的实现[J]. 天津工业大学学报, 2010(5):33-36.
HU Changpeng, ZHANG Jujian, LIU Ruipu. Realization of intelligent CAD systems of suits production based on VLISP and OpenDCL[J]. Journal of Tiangong University, 2010(5):33-36.
[5] 刘为敏, 谢红. BP神经网络下的智能化合体服装样板生成[J]. 纺织学报, 2018, 39(7):116-121.
LIU Weimin, XIE Hong. Generation of intelligent fitting pattern based on BP neural network[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2018, 39(7):116-121.
[6] 戴建国. 男装结构设计[M]. 杭州: 浙江大学出版社, 2005:118-120.
DAI Jianguo. Pattern making for man's wear design[M]. Hangzhou: Zhejiang University Press, 2005:118-120.
[7] 夏明, 张文斌. 定制服装样板快速生成技术研究[J]. 纺织科技进展, 2006(1):83-85.
XIA Ming, ZHANG Wenbin. Research on quick creating technology of creation sampler[J]. Progress in Textile Science & Technology, 2006(1):83-85.
[8] 吴尚. 定制男西裤样板的智能化成形研究[D]. 苏州:苏州大学, 2018: 48-50.
WU Shang. Intelligent pattern forming reasearch on custom male's trousers[D]. Suzhou: Soochow University, 2018: 48-50.
[9] 陆鑫. 基于特征的服装制版系统参数化设计的实现[J]. 纺织学报, 2006, 27(12):62-65.
LU Xin. Parameterized pattern design system based on body shape features[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2006, 27(12):62-65.
[10] 刘玉玉. 基于C#的西装纸样自动生成系统的研究[J]. 软件, 2012(33):10.
LIU Yuyu. Suit pattern automatically generated system based on C#[J]. Software, 2012(33):10.
[11] 朱江晖, 阎玉秀. 女套装上衣尺寸自动生成系统的建立[J]. 纺织学报, 2011, 32(9):142-146.
ZHU Jianghui, YAN Yuxiu. Development of auto-generation system of pattern sizes[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2011, 32(9):142-146.
[12] 刘瑞璞. 服装纸样设计原理与应用[M]. 北京: 中国纺织出版社, 2008: 130-145.
LIU Ruipu. The principles & practices of pattern design[M]. Beijing: China Textile & Apparel Press, 2008:130-145.
[13] 王竹君, 邢英梅. 基于BP网络的西服袖样板尺寸自动生成方法研究[J]. 河南工程学院学报, 2012(4):22-27.
WANG Zhujun, XING Yingmei. Research on auto-generation method of pattern sizes of suit sleeve based on BP artifical neutral network[J]. Journal of Henan Institute of Engineering, 2012(4):22-27.
[14] 孙福玉. MATLAB程序设计教程[M]. 呼和浩特: 远方出版社, 2008: 200-218.
SUN Fuyu. MatLab programming tutorial[M]. Hohhot: Yuanfang Press, 2008: 200-218.
[1] CHEN Mi, YE Qinwen, ZHANG Gaopeng. Construction of parametric structure model for bias-cut skirt pattern [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(07): 135-140.
[2] . Design and application of three-dimensional parametric technology in construction of new forms of modern clothing [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2018, 39(12): 118-123.
[3] . Improvement of electrospun membrane uniformity by non-circular gear traverse mechanism [J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2015, 36(07): 116-120.
Viewed
Full text


Abstract

Cited
  Shared   
  Discussed   
No Suggested Reading articles found!
京ICP备14006648号
Copyright 2021 © Editorial office of Journal of Textile Research
Supported by Beijing Magtech Co.Ltd