Journal of Textile Research ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (09): 70-75.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210305806

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Topological optimization design of dynamic moisture and temperature control for three dimensional knitted fabrics

YUAN Luning1,2, WANG Jianping1,2,3(), ZHANG Bingjie1,2, ZHANG Yuting1,2, YAO Xiaofeng1,2   

  1. 1. College of Fashion and Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design & Technology, Ministry of Education, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    3. Shanghai International Institute of Design and Innovation, Tongji University, Shanghai 200092, China
  • Received:2021-03-15 Revised:2021-06-10 Online:2021-09-15 Published:2021-09-27
  • Contact: WANG Jianping E-mail:wangjp@dhu.edu.cn

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Abstract:

In order to develop a three-dimensional knitted fabric with excellent dynamic humidity and temperature control, 70 dtex(72 f)×2 DRYARN® and 30 dtex DRYARN® wrapped with a 30 dtex spandex filament were selected as raw materials. The topological optimization design method of three-dimensional knitted fabrics was proposed, where the temperature control units were optimized to be arranged in V-shape, Y-shape and other dislocated arrangement, and a folded sheet structure was created by locally stretching and pleating the fabric by using the single-sided jacquard process. The result show that when the human body is sweating, the inner layer of the folded sheet structure absorbs sweat drops and transfers the moisture to the surface layer for rapid evaporation. When the human body feels cold, the inner air channel stores still air and effectively controls the temperature. The insulation rate of the prepared fabrics is more than 54%, and it has excellent temperature control performance. The overall liquid water transfer capacity is more than grade 3, and the liquid water dynamic transfer performance is good, while maintaining excellent tensile recovery performance. It provides a new idea for the research and development of three-dimensional knitted fabrics for winter thermal sports underwear.

Key words: functional knifted fabric, humidity and temperature control, 3-D knitted fabrics, topological geometry

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.61

Fig.1

Schematic diagram of folded sheet structure. (a) Front; (b) Side; (c) Back"

Fig.2

Knitting idea of temperature control unit"

Fig.3

Schematic diagram of arrangement of temperature control unit. (a)Arrangement 1; (b)Arrangement 2; (c)Arrangement 3; (d)Arrangement 4"

Fig.4

SEM images of fiber bundle(×200). (a) DRYARN®; (b) DRYARN® coated yarn; (c) Nylon; (d) Polypropylene covered yarn"

Tab.1

Fabric weave specification parameter table"

织物编号 纱线种类 控温单元
排列方式		 厚度/
mm		 面密度/
(g·m-2)		 密度
面纱 地纱 纵密/(横列·(5 cm)-1) 横密(纵行·(5 cm)-1)
1# 70 dtex(72 f)×2
DRYARN®		 30 dtex
DRYARN®
包覆
30 dtex氨纶		 1 3.15 598 189 98
2# 2 2.43 436 159 91
3# 3 3.05 551 169 93
4# 4 3.53 560 153 107
5# 140 dtex
锦纶		 50 dtex
丙纶包覆
20 dtex
氨纶		 1 2.55 623 203 104
6# 2 2.08 490 162 101
7# 3 2.67 578 177 102
8# 4 3.18 630 159 111

Tab.2

Test results of thermal insulation performance of fabrics"

织物编号 热阻/(m2·K·W-1) 保温率/%
1# 81.72 58.09
2# 71.32 54.74
3# 106.50 64.37
4# 91.31 60.76
5# 66.18 52.89
6# 72.68 55.21
7# 88.58 60.04
8# 81.02 57.88

Tab.3

Test results of moisture absorption and quick drying properties of fabrics"

织物编号 浸湿时间/s 吸水速率/(%·s-1) 最大浸湿半径/mm 液态水分扩散速率/(mm·s-1) 单向传递指数 液态水动态
传递综合指数
表层 底层 表层 底层 表层 底层 表层 底层
1# 7.22 23.86 64.66 107.15 11.25 15.00 0.86 1.79 364.76 0.72
2# 6.52 20.46 41.60 69.17 11.25 13.75 0.98 0.81 371.71 0.63
3# 6.29 17.96 38.88 79.61 10.00 13.00 1.14 1.19 324.45 0.61
4# 13.00 17.56 39.99 84.38 8.00 11.00 0.89 0.76 455.12 0.65
5# 10.66 24.87 28.18 100.57 8.00 12.00 0.74 0.47 319.77 0.58
6# 5.89 35.20 30.83 103.13 9.17 10.00 0.88 0.34 274.99 0.53
7# 19.14 31.75 27.32 94.34 6.00 10.00 0.72 0.54 352.71 0.54
8# 6.43 20.35 62.38 81.01 10.00 13.00 0.96 0.76 242.30 0.52

Tab.4

Test results of tensile recovery properties of fabrics"

织物编号 拉伸回复率/%
经向 纬向
1# 82.22 90.08
2# 88.30 90.18
3# 87.19 89.90
4# 86.47 88.12
5# 67.42 92.04
6# 83.88 94.61
7# 79.75 94.62
8# 88.29 96.29
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