Journal of Textile Research ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (07): 135-140.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210605606

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

2020 version of continuous structural modification on Donghua young women's garment basic block

LIU Yongmei1,2, XUE Huixin1, XU Danniang1, ZHANG Xianghui1,2()   

  1. 1. College of Fashion Design, Donghua University, Shanghai 200051, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Clothing Design and Technology, Ministry of Education, Shanghai 200051, China
  • Received:2021-06-22 Revised:2022-03-23 Online:2022-07-15 Published:2022-07-29
  • Contact: ZHANG Xianghui E-mail:zhangxianghui@dhu.edu.cn

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Abstract:

To adapt to the changes in the body shape characteristics of young women and improve the fitness and applicability of the garment basic block, the 2020 version of Donghua young women's garment basic block was established. Based on the structure of the 2008 version of Donghua young women's garment basic block, a hypothetical prototype for sample modification experiments was established. 56 young women aged 18-29 were tested to modify the hypothetical prototype sample of real life dress. The difference test was performed on the modified data, the regression relationship between the control parts of the prototype was adjusted, and the relaxation distribution rule of the hip part of the prototype was explored. Through the sample clothing correction experiment, trends were observed on young female's neck root circumference increase, shoulder inclination, and slight humpback. The adjustment of the prototype on the basis of the 2008 version of Donghua women's garment basic block is as follows: the regression formula changes at the front horizontal collar, back horizontal collar, back straight collar, chest width, back width and scapula dart, and the angle of the back shoulder oblique decreases. The distribution of hip circumference looseness in front, side and back parts was 19.0%, 60.4% and 20.6%, respectively. Based on these changes, the 2020 version of Donghua young women's garment basic block would improve the applicability of clothing prototype to different styles of clothing.

Key words: garment basic block, body characteristics, dressing experiment, sample modification

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.2

Fig.1

Hypothetical prototype"

Tab.1

Structure related data above waistline"

项目 均值 标准差
身高/cm 163.29 5.03
胸围/cm 84.47 4.94
前横开领/cm 6.92 0.28
前直开领/cm 7.49 0.26
后横开领/cm 7.08 0.26
后直开领/cm 2.32 0.10
前肩斜角/(°) 23.94 0.64
后肩斜角/(°) 11.41 1.50
冲肩量/cm 1.94 0.13
前胸宽/cm 16.68 0.64
后背宽/cm 17.78 0.64
前胸省/cm 4.02 0.45
后背省/cm 2.26 0.34

Tab.2

T-test for paired samples of front collar depth and back collar depth"

项目 差值平均值/cm t值 显著性(双尾)
前直开领 -0.10 -4.46 0
后直开领 -0.04 -4.65 0

Tab.3

Single sample T-test for shoulder oblique angle"

项目 比较
值/(°)		 平均
值/(°)		 显著性
(双尾)		 平均值
差值/(°)
前肩斜角 24 23.9 0.46 -0.1
后肩斜角 15 11.4 0 -3.6

Tab.4

T-test for paired samples of front chest width and back width"

项目 差值平均值/cm t值 显著性(双尾)
前胸宽 -0.09 -6.54 0
后背宽 0.05 4.01 0

Tab.5

Dart width paired sample T-test"

项目 差值平均值/cm t值 显著性(双尾)
前胸省 -0.11 -1.73 0.09
后背省 0.24 5.25 0

Tab.6

Formula of garment basic block"

项目 原公式 现公式 调整量
前横开领 后横开领-0.2 cm 后横开领-0.2 cm 0 cm
前直开领 后横开领+0.5 cm 后横开领+0.4 cm -0.1 cm
后横开领 0.05B*+2.8 cm 0.05B*+2.9 cm 0.1 cm
后直开领 后横开领/3 后横开领/3 0 cm
前肩斜角/(°) 24 24 0
后肩斜角/(°) 15 11 -4
冲肩量/cm 1.9 1.9 0
前胸宽 0.13B*+5.7 cm 0.13B*+5.6 cm -0.1 cm
后背宽 0.13B*+6.8 cm 0.13B*+6.9 cm 0.1 cm
前胸省 B*/40+2 cm B*/40+2 cm 0 cm
后背省 B*/40-0.1 cm B*/40+0.1 cm 0.2 cm

Fig.2

Prototype structure above waistline"

Tab.7

Distribution of front and back chest buttock difference"

部位 均值/% 中位数/% 偏度系数 峰度系数
前片(a+b) 49.2 49.1 0.33 2.2
后片(c+d) 50.8 50.9 -0.33 2.2

Tab.8

Distribution of front, side and back chest buttock difference"

部位 均值/% 中位数/% 偏度系数 峰度系数
前(a) 19.0 19.5 -1.0 1.2
侧(b+c) 60.4 60.5 -0.2 -0.7
后(d) 20.6 20.4 -0.1 -0.1

Fig.3

2020 verson of Donghua women's garment basic block"

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