Journal of Textile Research ›› 2024, Vol. 45 ›› Issue (01): 176-184.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20221104001

• Apparel Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Novel method for determining water vapor permeability of bra cups

WANG Zhaofang1, ZHANG Hui1,2(), DING Bo1, ZHANG Miao3   

  1. 1. College of Fashion Arts and Engineering, Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology, Beijing 100020, China
    2. BIFT·Aimer Underwear Research Institute, Beijing 100102, China
    3. Aimer Co., Ltd., Beijing 100102, China
  • Received:2022-11-14 Revised:2023-09-18 Online:2024-01-15 Published:2024-03-14

Abstract:

Objective The current testing standards and methods for fabric water vapor permeability are only applicable to sheet fabrics withuniform thickness and flatness, and cannot measure fabrics with curved surfaces and fabrics with uneven thickness, which leads to the lack of systematic water vapor permeability measurement methods for bra products.

Method This paper proposes a method for measuring the water vapor permeability of bra cups to solve the above problems. The main body of the equipment adopts the idea of "differential method", and consists of multiple slender water vapor permeable columns with a ground area of 1 cm×1 cm that continuously change in inclination angles to form a breast model with an arc-shaped evaporation surface. The innovations of the equipment are as follows: 1. the evaporation surface is designed to fit the cup radian more closely; 2. the sodium polyacrylate solution with a mass ratio of mPNNamH2O=1∶500 is used instead of the pure water, which approximately eliminates the water vapor resistance of the air layer above the evaporating liquid surface. According to the relationship between the evaporation rate of pure water and the thickness of the air layer, the relationship between the evaporation rate of pure water and the type of medium, the relationship between different concentrations of sodium polyacrylate solution and the obtained the corresponding curve fitting equations were adopted to calculate the corresponding evaporation coefficients Kair, Kangle and KPNNNa. Then algorithm and program design were carried out and the Visual Basic programming language was adopted to write the model method cup water vapor permeability calculation program. The program realizes the selection of water vapor permeability area, the input of independent variables such as mass and time, and the calculation of water vapor permeability. During the measurement, under the environmental conditions of temperature of 25 ℃, humidity of 30%, and wind speed of 0.4 m/s, the water vapor permeable column covered by the cup sample with approximately mPNNNamH2O=1∶500 sodium polyacrylate aqueous solution (keep the air layer height above the liquid level at 2 mm), the cup sample was fixed on the model with gauze to evaporate 6 h, mass the initial mass G0, evaporation end mass G1, evaporation time and evaporation area distribution were reoorded, and then input them into the user interface, and the permeability was calculate of by the program. The water vapor permeability of 4 cup samples with different air-ventilation hole areas was and compared the waster vapor permeability of fabrics measured by the upright cup method.

Results The results show that a strong correlation (R>0.6) exists between the water vapor permeability values of different cups measured by the model method and the value of the hole quantity (R>0.6), indicating that the measurement results of the model method proposed can characterize the differences in the water vapor permeability of cups with different hole areas. On the one hand, the cups of each type were measured three times, and the CV values obtained were all less than 6%. It can be seen that the coefficient of variation of the data measured by the model method is small, and the stability of the equipment is high. And the water vapor permeability of cups made of five kinds of fabrics plain cotton, flax, silk, wool and canvas cotton obtained by this method has a high consistency with the water vapor permeability of the corresponding five fabrics measured by the upright cup method (R>0.6).

Conclusion The water vapor permeability measured by the model method can be adopted to characterize the water vapor permeability of bra cups and fabrics. This test method solves the problem that the water vapor permeability of bra products cannot be measured and characterized at present, and can provide method support for the evaluation of the water vapor permeability of bra products for underwear companies, facilitating companies research on the heat and humidity comfort of bras. Enterprises can find out the problems and deficiencies of research and development products through measurement, and reduce the flow of bras that do not meet the water vapor permeability requirements into the market. For consumers,by marking the water vapor permeability performance data of bra products on product details, consumers can be provided with more convincing and objective consumption guidance.

Key words: water vapor permeability, bra, water vapor permeability evaluation of bra, thermal and wet comfort, facilitating permeability

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.17

Fig.1

Diagram of upright cup method"

Fig.2

Schematic diagram of water resistance in upright cup method"

Fig.3

Chest model diagram. (a) Front view;(b)1/2 Side view; (c) 3/4 Side view;(d) Rear view"

Tab.1

Air layer thickness and evaporation rate"

空气层厚度/
cm
蒸发率/(g·(h·m2)-1 )
均值 标准差
0.20 99.82 2.29
0.30 94.32 3.51
0.60 84.37 2.37
1.00 81.89 3.33
2.00 79.47 2.08
3.00 78.49 3.35
4.00 73.71 2.17
4.30 72.47 3.28
4.60 72.57 3.01
5.00 71.52 1.80
5.30 69.47 1.54
5.60 68.93 2.08

Fig.4

Conventional residual plot of evaporation rate"

Fig.5

Schematic diagram of water vapor permeable cups with different inclination angles"

Fig.6

Influence of tilt angle on evaporation"

Fig.7

Conventional residual plot of evaporation rate"

Fig.8

Influence of medium type on evaporation of water. (a) Polyurethane sponge;(b)Natural latex sponge;(c) Pure cotton wadding;(d)Sodium polyacrylate"

Tab.2

Relationship between concentration of PNNNa and evaporation rate"

mPNNNa m H 2 O 现象 蒸发率/
(g·(h·m2)-1)
1∶100 凝胶状固体,水完全吸收,
倾斜无流动
59.40
1∶200 凝胶状固体,水完全吸收,
倾斜无流动
62.52
1∶300 凝胶状固体,水完全吸收,
倾斜无流动
63.66
1∶400 凝胶状固体,接近完全吸收,
倾斜轻微流动
66.48
1∶500 凝胶状固体,细微渗水,
倾斜有流动感
67.32
1∶600 凝胶状固体,轻微渗水,
倾斜有明显流动感
64.02
1∶700 凝胶状固体,些许渗水,
倾斜流动感较强
66.66
1∶800 水固交融,较多水未吸收,
流动感接近纯水
68.82
1∶900 明显水状,其特性接近蒸馏水 70.32
纯水 蒸馏水,无色透明液体 74.52

Tab.3

Angle of water vapor permeable column in cup area"

倾斜角度/
(°)
透湿柱角度/(°)
A B C D E F G H I J K
1 4.8 18.2 23.5 31.0 38.1 38.7 43.6 45.6 50.7 51.8 46.9
2 17.8 24.3 33.4 35.1 34.1 33.4 41.2 47.4 48.8 55.0 56.4
3 21.8 32.9 33.7 31.5 30.6 31.8 34.9 41.8 51.5 58.5 64.3
4 31.4 38.8 34.4 29.5 28.3 30.2 36.6 41.1 49.8 58.6 65.7
5 35.9 37.2 39.1 25.3 21.8 23.2 29.5 37.3 47.9 57.7 66.8
6 37.2 44.4 33.6 21.1 15.3 16.1 22.4 32.8 46.1 57.3 68.5
7 40.6 40.1 28.4 17.3 7.0 2.3 10.8 29.1 43.7 56.3 69.3
8 38.1 40.4 27.3 16.2 0.5 5.0 8.9 29.1 41.8 55.8 69.3
9 31.5 44.0 33.8 21.1 10.8 13.7 21.0 30.5 45.0 61.0
10 18.5 37.5 39.2 30.2 27.7 26.5 28.5 39.6 54.0 70.0
11 4.6 21.4 38.9 40.5 37.0 35.8 42.8 52.0 63.5
12 1.70 15.6 38.9 49.5 49.9 56.7 58.6
13 7.10 11.6 23.9 37.0 45.1

Fig.9

Program flow chart"

Fig.10

User interface of bra vapor permeability measurement system"

Fig.11

Diagram of measurement of water vapor permeability of bra cup"

Tab.4

Cup sample specifications"

编号 组成
成分
孔洞
直径/
cm
孔洞
数量
孔洞
面积/
cm2
边缘厚
度/mm
中心
厚度/
mm
罩杯a 聚醚聚氨酯 2.5 43 211.07 0.8 5
罩杯b 聚醚聚氨酯 3.0 29 204.99 0.8 5
罩杯c 聚醚聚氨酯 3.0 23 162.58 0.8 5
罩杯d 聚醚聚氨酯 0 0.8 5

Fig.12

Schematic diagram of bra cup sample. (a) Cup a;(b) Cup b;(c) Cup c;(d) Cup d"

Tab.5

Test results of water vaport moisture permeability of bray cup"

编号 透湿率/(g·(h·m2)-1) 标准差/(g·(h·m2)-1) CV值/%
罩杯a 60.78 3.16 5.20
罩杯b 57.88 0.58 1.01
罩杯c 56.70 2.35 4.14
罩杯d 55.70 1.03 1.85

Tab.6

Fabric sample specifications"

编号 组成成分 织物组织 厚度/
mm
面密度/
(g·m-2)
1 100%棉 平纹 0.180 88.8
2 100%丝 平纹 0.232 125.5
3 100%麻 平纹 0.298 202.8
4 100%羊毛 平纹 0.521 228.2
5 100%棉 斜纹 0.412 268.5

Fig.13

Comparison of water vapor permeability results between model method and upright cup method"

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