Journal of Textile Research ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (8): 35-39.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180501606

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Measurement for bending behavior by bowknot method

YU Fang1(), LIU Chengxia2   

  1. 1. Yuanpei College, Shaoxing University, Shaoxing, Zhejiang 312000, China
    2. School of Fashion Design & Engineering, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China;
  • Received:2018-05-08 Revised:2019-05-17 Online:2019-08-15 Published:2019-08-16

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Abstract:

Aiming at the actuality that for the measurement of the fabric bending behavior, more than one fabric samples are needed to obtain more than one test result, a simple and fabric saving bowknot method for testing the bending behavior of wool fabric was proposed, and the detailed method and parameters of area, width, height and angle of bowknot were elaborated. 18 kinds of wool fabrics were used to compare the new method with the conventional method. The results show that the correlations between the four indexes in the new method and bending rigidity are good. The bowknots of stiffer wool fabrics will have larger angle, width and area, but smaller height. The area of the bowknot has the highest correlation with the bending rigidity. Moreover, the regression equation between the area bowknot and the bending rigidity is established for the predicting the fabric bending rigidity.

Key words: wool fabric, bending behavior, bending rigidity, bowknot method

CLC Number: 

  • TS941.2

Tab.1

Fabric specification parameters"

试样
编号		 组织 成分(含量) 密度/(根·(10 cm)-1) 线密度/tex 面密度/
(g·m-2)		 厚度/
mm
经向 纬向 经纱 纬纱
1# 平纹 羊毛/涤纶(65/35) 190 150 30×2 30×2 412.6 0.63
2# 平纹 羊毛(100) 360 216 24 24 358.8 0.24
3# 平纹 羊毛(100) 260 200 16×2 16×2 342.5 0.34
4# 平纹 羊毛/涤纶(50/50) 320 230 26 26 481.8 0.27
5# 平纹 羊毛/粘胶(70/30) 384 384 10 10 130.4 0.22
6# 平纹 羊毛/腈纶(65/35) 258 240 29×2 29×2 305.0 0.33
7# 斜纹 羊毛/腈纶/粘胶(50/30/20) 350 320 25 25 172.6 0.43
8# 斜纹 羊毛/粘胶(70/30) 360 280 28 28 259.3 0.32
9# 缎纹 羊毛(100) 340 265 29 29 285.7 0.34
10# 平纹 羊毛/腈纶(50/50) 320 160 24×2 25×2 241.4 0.43
11# 平纹 羊毛/涤纶(65/35) 360 340 26×2 26×2 323.0 0.37
12# 斜纹 羊毛/棉(65/35) 316 296 22×2 24×2 225.5 0.32
13# 缎纹 涤纶/羊毛(80/20) 224 114 25×2 26×2 324.8 0.32
14# 平纹 涤纶/羊毛(70/30) 270 180 23×2 24×2 223.0 0.27
15# 平纹 涤纶/羊毛/氨纶(65/30/5) 480 320 21×2 20×2 263.8 0.34
16# 斜纹 羊毛(100) 420 380 24.5×2 24.5×2 434.2 0.47
17# 斜纹 羊毛/涤纶(85/15) 240 210 30×2 30×2 334.0 0.38
18# 缎纹 羊毛/涤纶(95/5) 356 285 19.6×2 19.6×2 260.9 0.28

Fig.1

Testing principle of bowknot method. (a) Front of 1# fabric; (b) Profile of 1# fabric;(c) Front of 4# fabric; (d) Profile of 4# fabric"

Fig.2

Testing instrument"

Fig.3

Extraction of parameters in bowknot method. (a) Front; (b) Profile"

Tab.2

Results of fabrics bending performance"

试样
编号		 斜面悬臂梁法 蝴蝶结法
经向 纬向 45°方向 经向 纬向 45°方向
抗弯刚度B/(μN·m) A/cm2 W/cm H/cm θ/(°) A/cm2 W/cm H/cm θ/(°) A/cm2 W/cm H/cm θ/(°)
1# 33.9 30.9 21.7 18.27 3.51 0.16 83 18.06 3.43 0.58 72 15.78 2.70 0.55 68
2# 10.7 12.1 10.4 11.50 2.10 1.24 49 10.95 1.49 1.28 48 11.47 1.54 1.12 48
3# 11.2 12.3 15.3 12.31 1.41 0.95 55 11.03 1.51 1.27 64 13.43 2.54 1.02 60
4# 4.2 3.9 7.1 9.51 1.49 1.41 40 8.62 1.21 1.65 36 8.18 1.52 1.11 44
5# 6.1 4.9 7.4 10.63 1.51 1.21 47 8.75 1.42 1.66 38 9.35 1.50 1.12 50
6# 24.5 20.5 25.4 16.50 2.87 0.81 76 14.94 2.52 0.69 75 16.76 2.80 0.68 74
7# 21.3 11.6 20.9 15.69 2.65 0.57 71 10.76 1.45 0.59 69 14.85 2.40 0.87 61
8# 14.5 13.4 13.2 13.50 2.30 1.22 35 12.84 1.21 1.32 56 12.98 2.10 0.88 54
9# 11.8 10.3 7.9 11.51 1.37 1.12 45 11.25 1.49 1.53 41 9.22 1.40 1.57 45
10# 12.4 11.2 10.0 10.90 1.48 1.43 46 11.60 1.42 1.22 47 10.73 1.42 1.32 49
11# 15.7 14.1 14.3 13.80 1.83 0.95 65 13.70 2.07 0.84 35 13.63 2.01 1.21 52
12# 20.7 18.3 18.3 15.30 2.65 0.62 67 14.20 2.18 1.08 62 14.30 2.33 1.01 62
13# 25.6 20.6 19.9 16.80 2.85 0.88 76 15.97 2.33 0.65 64 14.79 2.50 0.61 67
14# 11.4 10.5 9.4 11.05 1.32 1.39 51 11.30 1.20 1.55 45 10.52 1.60 1.15 46
15# 18.6 12.4 17.8 14.30 1.96 1.06 61 12.86 1.40 1.16 59 14.18 2.30 0.92 63
16# 13.8 16.1 15.2 12.48 1.66 0.86 58 14.73 2.07 0.97 63 13.93 2.20 0.96 42
17# 12.6 11.0 10.5 11.30 1.51 1.24 55 11.85 1.23 1.25 47 10.49 1.47 1.26 47
18# 8.4 13.3 7.5 8.88 1.02 1.54 41 12.40 1.63 1.55 39 8.43 1.70 1.48 38

Tab.3

Correlation coefficients of bending performance"

B A W H θ
B 1 0.954** 0.901** -0.806** 0.830**
A 1 0.879** -0.799** 0.783**
W 1 -0.792** 0.716**
H 1 -0.803**
θ 1

Fig.4

Relationship between bending rigidity and bowknot area"

Fig.5

Relationship between bowknot width and bending rigidity"

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