Journal of Textile Research ›› 2021, Vol. 42 ›› Issue (09): 59-65.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20201200507

• Textile Engineering • Previous Articles     Next Articles

Balanced interlacement characteristics of compound full-color jacquard structure with single warp and double wefts

LU Shuangyi, ZHOU Jiu()   

  1. Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
  • Received:2020-12-02 Revised:2021-05-14 Online:2021-09-15 Published:2021-09-27
  • Contact: ZHOU Jiu E-mail:zhoujiu34@126.com

Abstract:

In order to avoid weaving interruption caused by unbalanced interlacement of compound full-color jacquard fabrics, a new design method for balanced interlacement was proposed and optimized. For the single-warp-double-weft structure, linear horizontal, linear vertical and radial gray gradient pattern grids were designed for weaving samples. Conventional structures and optimal structures were then compared and analyzed from three aspects: weaving stability, surface effect and standard deviation of warp interlacement frequency. It is evident that all samples made from the optimal structures and the linear vertical gradient samples using the conventional structures demonstrate characteristics of balanced interlacement. Linear horizontal and radial gradient samples woven from conventional structures perform arched status at cloth-fell with different degrees, leading to weaving interruption and bumpy surface in some cases, which represents unbalanced interlacement. To solve this problem, filling density was adjusted to be lower than 800 picks/(10 cm) to avoid the error of covering of adjacent wefts, and the characteristics of structural balanced interlacement were quantified by calculating interlacement frequency. Dispersion degrees of warp interlacement frequency of samples are approaching zero while applying optimal structures, and juxtaposed wefts in optimal structures express non-backed twill effect, proving the effectiveness of the optimal method for balanced structural design.

Key words: single-warp-double-weft, full-color, jacquard fabric, balanced interlacement, number of interlacement, structural design

CLC Number: 

  • TS105.1

Fig.1

Examples for elementary weaves. (a) Plain weave; (b)5 ends weft-face twill weave; (c)5 ends weft-face sateen weave"

Fig.2

Partial structure simulation for warp interlacing with the first, second weft of example weaves. (a) Plain weave; (b)5 ends weft-face twill weave; (c)5 ends weft-face sateen weave"

Fig.3

Design process for single-warp-double-wefts compound full-color jacquard fabric"

Fig.4

Basic primary weave, joint primary weave and their full-color technical points respectively. (a) Initial basic weave; (b) Full-color technical weave for basic weaves; (c) Initial joint weave; (d) Full-color technical weave for joint weaves"

Fig.5

Basic full-color weave database"

Fig.6

Joint full-color weave database"

Fig.7

Optimal 12 grades of compound full-color weaves"

Fig.8

Partial structure simulation for warp interlacing with the first, second wefts of optimal compound weave No.1"

Fig.9

Conventional 14 grades of compound full-color weaves"

Fig.10

Single-warp-double-wefts compound full-color jacquard fabric samples. (a) Linear horizontal gradient sample applying conventional 14 grades of compound full-color weaves; (b) Linear vertical gradient sample applying conventional 14 grades of compound full-color weaves; (c) Radial gradient sample applying conventional 14 grades of compound full-color weaves; (d) Linear horizontal gradient sample applying optimal 12 grades of compound full-color weaves; (e) Linear vertical gradient sample applying optimal 12 grades of compound full-color weaves; (f) Radial gradient sample applying optimal 12 grades of compound full-color weaves"

Fig.11

Arched cloth-fell"

Fig.12

Linear horizontal gradient sample applying conventional 14 grades of compound full-color weaves in detail"

Fig.13

Partial structure simulation for warp interlacing with the first, second wefts of conventional compound weave No.1"

Tab.1

Fabric characteristics comparisons applying conventional and optimal structures"

全显色
结构类型
数码图
渐变类型
织造
平稳性
梭口
状态
布面
平整性
灰度渐
变效果
常规组合
全显色结构
(14级)
横向 不平稳 中部呈拱形 不平整 较均匀
纵向 平稳 平直 平整 较均匀
沿半径方向 较平稳 两侧呈微拱形 较平整 较均匀
优化组合
全显色结构
(12级)
横向 平稳 平直 平整 均匀
纵向 平稳 平直 平整 均匀
沿半径方向 平稳 平直 平整 均匀
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