女西装特征部位松量分布规则

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20180702706

纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (05): 107-112.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20180702706

女西装特征部位松量分布规则

顾冰菲¹^,²^,³, 闫彦红¹^,²^,³, 苏军强⁴(), 刘国联⁵

1.浙江理工大学服装学院, 浙江杭州 310018
2.浙江理工大学浙江省服装工程技术研究中心,浙江杭州 310018
3.丝绸文化传承与产品设计数字化技术文化旅游部重点实验室, 浙江杭州 310018
4.江南大学纺织服装学院, 江苏无锡 214122
5.苏州大学纺织与服装工程学院, 江苏苏州 215006

收稿日期:2018-07-11 修回日期:2019-01-25 出版日期:2019-05-15 发布日期:2019-05-21
通讯作者: 苏军强
作者简介:顾冰菲(1987—),女,讲师,博士。主要研究方向为数字化服装技术。
基金资助:
国家自然科学基金项目(61702461);国家自然科学基金项目(61702460);浙江理工大学纺织科学与工程一流学科优秀博士专项项目(2017YBZX14);浙江理工大学科研启动基金项目(16072195-Y);浙江省服装工程技术研究中心开放基金项目(2018FZKF08);浙江理工大学2018年度高等教育科学研究课题资助项目(Xgz1805)

Ease distribution rules of characteristic positions in women's suits

GU Bingfei¹^,²^,³, YAN Yanhong¹^,²^,³, SU Junqiang⁴(), LIU Guolian⁵

1. Fashion College, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
2. Clothing Engineering Research Center of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
3. Key Laboratory of Silk Culture Heritage and Products Design Digital Technology, Ministry of Culture Tourism, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China
4. School of Textile and Clothing, Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
5. College and Textile and Clothing Engineering, Soochow University, Suzhou, Jiangsu 215006, China

Received:2018-07-11 Revised:2019-01-25 Online:2019-05-15 Published:2019-05-21
Contact: SU Junqiang

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为通过探究人体与服装间的距离松量分布规律构建成衣样板生成规则,首先使用三维扫描仪对未穿着服装的人台进行扫描,获得人台基本数据。然后扫描穿着7件相同款式不同尺码的西装,获得7件服装点云数据。再将人台数据和服装数据进行叠加展示服装间的距离松量分布规律,并通过测量人台与服装间10个特征部位的截面环建立距离松量计算模型,进行给定松量和距离的松量转换。最后用三维曲线拟合方式以胸围曲线为例进行了样板增量的转化。结果表明:各部位距离松量回归方程的R ²值均大于0.9,验证了该预测模型的精确度;通过案例验证发现成衣胸围与人体净胸围之间存在-0.42 cm的误差,且在国内女装制作胸围标准误差范围内。

关键词: 人体测量, 点云数据, 距离松量, 样板增量

Abstract:

In order to realize the automatic generation of individualized pattern, the distribution rules of ease allowance between human body and garments were analyzed to establish the pattern generation rules. First the undressed standard mannequin was scanned by a 3-D body scanner to obtain the basic point-cloud data of the mannequin, and then seven suits with the same style and different ease allowance were scanned to obtain the point-cloud data of the suits. The distribution rules of the distance ease were demonstrated by adding the data of the suits and mannequin, and the mannequin-suit curves of ten characteristic positions were measured to build the calculative models between the distance ease and the ease allowance to realize the conversion between the ease allowance and the distance ease. The R ² values of the regression models of the distance ease at all positions are all more than 0.9, verifying the accuracy of the models. Finally, the distance ease was converted into the pattern increments through curve simulation by taking the bust position as an example, and the example shows that the difference between the bust circumference of the garment and the body bust girth is -0.42 cm, which conforms to the standard error of the bust circumference of women's suits in China.

Key words: body measurement, point-cloud data, distance ease, pattern increment

中图分类号:

TS941.26

顾冰菲, 闫彦红, 苏军强, 刘国联. 女西装特征部位松量分布规则[J]. 纺织学报, 2019, 40(05): 107-112.

GU Bingfei, YAN Yanhong, SU Junqiang, LIU Guolian. Ease distribution rules of characteristic positions in women's suits[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2019, 40(05): 107-112.

图/表 12

图1

表1

图2

图3

图4

图5

表2

图6

表3

胸宽截面给定松量-距离松量模型"

插入点编号	回归模型	R²
1	Y=-0.559+0.154X₃+0.001 $X 3 2$	0.988
2	Y=-0.183+0.091X₃+0.00046 $X 3 2$	0.997
3	Y=0.477+0.124X₃-0.003 $X 3 2$	0.951
4	Y=-0.312+0.223X₃-0.007 $X 3 2$	0.928
5	Y=-1.028+0.440X₃-0.005 $X 3 2$	0.995
6	Y=-2.113+0.859X₃-0.021 $X 3 2$	0.999
16	Y=0.135-0.026X₃+0.007 $X 3 2$	0.943
17	Y=-0.181+0.051X₃+0.001 $X 3 2$	0.960
18	Y=0.060-0.002X₃+0.001 $X 3 2$	0.994
19	Y=0.812+0.101X₃-0.003 $X 3 2$	0.891
20	Y=0.224+0.090X₃-0.001 $X 3 2$	0.986

表3

图7

表4

图8

参考文献 11

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尺寸类型	样衣编号	放松量/ cm	胸围 B/cm	腰围 W/cm	臀围 H/cm
标准人台尺寸	0^#	0	84	66	90
西装尺寸	1^#	贴体 0~4	86	70	92
	2^#	贴体 0~4	88	72	94
	3^#	合体 6~12	92	76	96
	4^#		94	78	98
	5^#		96	82	100
	6^#	宽松 16~24	100	90	102
	7^#	宽松 16~24	104	94	104

特征部位围度差	与胸部松量值相关性	与腰部松量值相关性	与臀部松量值相关性
肩部截面	0.976	0.949	0.999
上胸宽截面	0.987	0.979	0.989
胸宽截面	0.915	0.907	0.940
下胸宽截面	0.967	0.954	0.997
腋点处截面	0.932	0.911	0.942
下胸部截面	0.994	0.930	0.966
腹部截面	0.980	0.977	0.993

插入点	人体/cm	服装/cm	增量ΔL/cm
L_1-2	8.50	10.31	1.81
L_2-3	2.49	2.79	0.30
L_3-4	3.83	3.63	-0.20
L_4-5	3.95	4.11	0.16
L_5-6	3.95	4.06	0.11
L_15-16	4.28	4.49	0.21
L_16-17	4.32	4.53	0.21
L_17-18	3.53	3.56	0.03
L_18-1	6.48	8.64	2.46

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女西装特征部位松量分布规则

Ease distribution rules of characteristic positions in women's suits

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