纺织学报 ›› 2019, Vol. 40 ›› Issue (10): 73-78.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20181104106

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

全成形毛衫横向编织方式及其成形工艺

王盼, 吴志明()   

  1. 江南大学 教育部针织技术工程研究中心, 江苏 无锡 214122
  • 收稿日期:2018-11-15 修回日期:2019-06-26 出版日期:2019-10-15 发布日期:2019-10-23
  • 通讯作者: 吴志明
  • 作者简介:王盼(1991—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为全成形产品编织工艺。
  • 基金资助:
    国家自然科学基金项目(61772238);国家轻工技术与工程一流学科自主课题项目(2018-28)

Transverse knitting method and forming process of fully formed sweater

WANG Pan, WU Zhiming()   

  1. Engineering Research Center for Knitting Technology, Ministry of Education,Jiangnan University, Wuxi, Jiangsu 214122, China
  • Received:2018-11-15 Revised:2019-06-26 Online:2019-10-15 Published:2019-10-23
  • Contact: WU Zhiming

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摘要：

为促进全成形毛衫的设计与开发,以四针床电脑横机及SDS-ONE APPEX 3设计系统为依托,采用实例分析法和实验法,对全成形毛衫横向编织的成形规律进行研究。根据全成形横向编织的特点与优势,选取3个最适宜款式为研究实例,对其工艺设计方法及成形原理进行分析,并通过上机编织实物验证了理论的可行性。结果表明:采用横向编织时,上下装侧缝起底、平收类型要保持一致;编织上装时,可大幅度增加袖子和大身的横向尺寸,实现宽松、随意效果,可通过袖身连同编织和肩部打摺处理,形成蝙蝠袖款式;编织下装时,可在下摆处执行多织来快速拉大腰部与下摆的差量,形成波浪效果。

关键词: 针织技术, 全成形毛衫, 横向编织方式, 成形工艺, 四针床电脑横机

Abstract:

In order to promote the design and development of fully formed sweater, the forming rule of fully formed sweater was studied by means of case analysis and experimentation on the basis of the four-bed computerized flat knitting machine and design system of SDS-ONE APPEX 3. According to the characteristics and advantages of full-formed transverse knitting, three most suitable styles were selected as research examples, and their process design methods and forming principles were analyzed. The feasibility of the theory was verified by the actual weaving on the machine. The results show that when the transverse knitting is adopted, both sides seam types of separates should be kept the same. When knitting upper garments, the lateral dimensions of sleeves and body can be greatly increased to achieve relaxed and random effects, and bat sleeves can be formed by sleeves and body knitting together and shoulder folding. When knitting lower garment, multi-weaving can be carried out at the hem to quickly increase the difference between waist and hem to form the wave effect.

Key words: knitting technology, fully formed sweater, transverse knitting method, forming process, four-bed computerized flat knitting machine

中图分类号: 

  • TS941.64

图1

横向编织成形方式"

图2

横向编织毛衫主要款式"

图3

J、S曲线的4种排列形式及对领部的处理"

图4

蝙蝠袖开衫基础样板及关键部位 1—后中心长; 2—腋下长; 3—后领宽; 4—肩宽; 5—胸宽;6—从肩到腋下之间宽; 7—小肩宽; 8—袖口长; 9—上臂长; 10—袖下长; 11—袖口宽; 12—下摆长。"

图5

含洞腰带与裙腰衬带示意图"

图6

宽松款套头衫示意图"

图7

蝙蝠袖开衫示意图"

图8

喇叭裙示意图"

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