具有双层效果的提花-印花-剪花织物的设计

doi:10.13475/j.fzxb.20190803107

纺织学报 ›› 2020, Vol. 41 ›› Issue (06): 48-54.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20190803107

具有双层效果的提花-印花-剪花织物的设计

金诗怡, 周赳()

浙江理工大学浙江省丝绸与时尚文化研究中心, 浙江杭州 310018

收稿日期:2019-08-21 修回日期:2020-02-25 出版日期:2020-06-15 发布日期:2020-06-28
通讯作者: 周赳
作者简介:金诗怡(1995—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为纺织品设计。
基金资助:
中国纺织工业联合会应用基础研究项目(J201802);文化部重点实验室资助项目(2017016)

Innovative design of fabrics combining jacquard design and printing and clipping with a two-layer effect

JIN Shiyi, ZHOU Jiu()

Silk and Fashion Culture Research Center of Zhejiang Province, Zhejiang Sci-Tech University, Hangzhou, Zhejiang 310018, China

Received:2019-08-21 Revised:2020-02-25 Online:2020-06-15 Published:2020-06-28
Contact: ZHOU Jiu

摘要/Abstract

摘要：

为给多重效果组合的织物提供创新设计思路,针对提花-印花织物效果单一,且现有的提花-印花织物设计方法无法适用于剪花、烂花等特殊工艺面料设计的问题,将双层效果提花织物、提花-印花织物与剪花织物的设计方法相结合,提出具有双层效果的提花-印花-剪花织物的设计原理和方法。将目标织物分为提花层、印花层和剪花层3个部分,从图案色彩和组织结构2个方面进行设计分析,提出可行性技术方案。研究结果表明:在提花-印花的基础上,可实现具有双层效果的提花-印花-剪花结合织物的设计,并可构建起提花-印花-剪花织物的设计体系,使织物集双层、织花、印花和剪花4种效果于一体,在织物表面呈现4种静态、3种动态的丰富组合效果。

关键词: 提花-印花-剪花结合, 数码提花, 剪花织物, 多重效果, 机织物

Abstract:

In order to create new ideas for innovative design of fabrics with multiple effects, this research worked to combine the design of two-layer jacquard (J) fabrics with printing (P) and clipping(C), and put forward the design method for JPC fabrics with an two-layer effect. The method made it possible for a jacquard fabric to be printed on and to be clipped or burnt-out for pattern creation. The work divided the fabric into the jacquard layer, clipping layer and printing layer, and conceived from pattern design and weave structure design to put forward feasible technical scheme. The design practice showes that it is feasible to complete the innovative design of JPC fabrics with a two-layer effect, and to construct an innovative system of JPC fabrics to integrate characteristics of two-layer, jacquard, printing and clipping into one. Such created fabric is able to show four static and three dynamic effect combinations.

Key words: jacquard and printing and clipping fabric, digital jacquard, clipped fabric, multiple effect combination, woven fabric

中图分类号:

TS194.1

金诗怡, 周赳. 具有双层效果的提花-印花-剪花织物的设计[J]. 纺织学报, 2020, 41(06): 48-54.

JIN Shiyi, ZHOU Jiu. Innovative design of fabrics combining jacquard design and printing and clipping with a two-layer effect[J]. Journal of Textile Research, 2020, 41(06): 48-54.

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具有双层效果的提花-印花-剪花织物的设计

Innovative design of fabrics combining jacquard design and printing and clipping with a two-layer effect

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