纺织学报 ›› 2022, Vol. 43 ›› Issue (10): 58-64.doi: 10.13475/j.fzxb.20210907907

• 纺织工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

三维导湿结构环保针织面料开发与吸湿速干性能评价

王玥1, 王春红1,2(), 徐磊1, 刘胜凯1, 鹿超1, 王利剑1, 杨璐1, 左祺1   

  1. 1.天津工业大学 纺织科学与工程学院, 天津 300387
    2.天津工业大学 先进纺织复合材料教育部重点实验室, 天津 300387
  • 收稿日期:2021-09-24 修回日期:2022-01-22 出版日期:2022-10-15 发布日期:2022-10-28
  • 通讯作者: 王春红
  • 作者简介:王玥(1997—),女,硕士生。主要研究方向为绿色环保吸湿速干面料设计与开发。
  • 基金资助:
    国家自然科学基金项目(11802205)

Development of environmentally friendly knitted fabrics with 3-D moisture conductive structure and performance evaluation on moisture absorption and quick-drying

WANG Yue1, WANG Chunhong1,2(), XU Lei1, LIU Shengkai1, LU Chao1, WANG Lijian1, YANG Lu1, ZUO Qi1   

  1. 1. School of Textile Science and Engineering, Tiangong University, Tianjin 300387, China
    2. Key Laboratory of Advanced Textile Composite Materials, Ministry of Education, Tiangong University, Tianjin 300387, China
  • Received:2021-09-24 Revised:2022-01-22 Published:2022-10-15 Online:2022-10-28
  • Contact: WANG Chunhong

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摘要：

为开发环保吸湿速干面料,设计新型三维导湿结构织造变化纬编间隔双面针织物,并结合单面和双面组织,采用天丝和再生涤纶制备9种针织面料。在变化纬编间隔组织下,将天丝/再生涤纶织物同天丝/中空涤纶织物和天丝/杜邦TMSorona®织物进行对比。通过动态水分传递法与单项组合试验法对各织物进行测试分析,采用模糊综合评价法对各织物吸湿速干性能进行对比。结果表明:通过2种测试方法得到的面料吸湿速干性能优劣排序存在差异;综合分析发现采用18 tex天丝/33.3 tex(96 f)再生涤纶长丝织造的三维导湿结构变化纬编间隔双面织物吸湿速干性能最好;单层织物中,采用纬平针组织织造的天丝/再生涤纶长丝混合针织物吸湿速干性能较好,有潜力应用于绿色环保型运动服装领域。

关键词: 环保, 吸湿速干, 三维导湿结构, 动态水分传递法, 单项组合试验法, 针织面料

Abstract:

In order to develop environmentally friendly fabrics with moisture absorption and quick-drying performance, a new 3-D moisture-conducting structure was designed to develop double-side derivative fabrics with knitted spacer structure. TencelTM and recycled polyester fibers were used, and 9 different knitted fabrics were experimented on with single-sided and double-sided constructions. Using the derivative knitted spacer structure, the fabric made from TencelTM/recycled polyester fibers was compared with the fabric of TencelTM/hollow polyester and that of TencelTM/DuPontTM Sorona®. The fabrics were tested and analyzed by moisture management method and combination tests method. The fuzzy comprehensive evaluation method was used to compare the moisture absorption and quick-drying performance of the fabrics. The results show that two test methods yield different values in the ranking of the moisture absorption and quick-drying properties. Through comprehensive analysis, 18 tex TencelTM and 33.3 tex (96 f) recycled polyester filament fabric with 3-D moisture-conducting structure has the best moisture absorption and quick-drying performance. Of the single-side fabrics, the mixed knitted fabrics of TencelTM/recycled polyester filament with flat knit structure have excellent moisture absorption and quick-drying performance. These fabrics have the potential to be used in the field of green and environmentally friendly sportswear.

Key words: environmental protection, moisture absorption and quick-drying, 3-D moisture transmission structure, dynamic moisture transmission method, method for combination test, knitted fabric

中图分类号: 

  • TS186.2

图1

三维织物结构模型及其截面示意图"

图2

4种针织组织结构图"

表1

针织物的组织结构和原料组成"

组织
结构		 编
号		 原料规格
纬平针
组织		 1# 双股天丝(18.0 tex)
2# 双股再生涤纶短纤纱(18.0 tex)
3# 双股天丝(18.0 tex)与双股再生涤纶短纤纱(18.0 tex)隔1行交替
4# 双股天丝(18.0 tex)与双股再生涤纶长丝(16.7 tex)隔1行交替
蜂窝网
眼组织		 5# 双股天丝(18.0 tex)与双股再生涤纶长丝(16.7 tex)隔2行交替
纬编间
隔组织		 6# 天丝(18.0 tex)与再生涤纶长丝(16.7 tex)
7# 天丝(18.0 tex)与再生涤纶长丝(33.3 tex)
变化纬
编间隔
组织		 8# 天丝(18.0 tex)与再生涤纶长丝(16.7 tex)
9# 天丝(18.0 tex)与再生涤纶长丝(33.3 tex)
10# 天丝(18.0 tex)与杜邦TMSorona®高弹纱(33.3 tex)
11# 天丝(18.0 tex)与中空涤纶短纤纱(28.0 tex)

图3

织物水分扩散位置与时间关系示意图"

图4

吸水率测试结果"

图5

芯吸高度测试结果"

图6

蒸发量测试结果"

图7

蒸发速率测试结果"

图8

织物透湿率测试结果"

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