纺织学报 ›› 2010, Vol. 31 ›› Issue (11): 109-115.

• 服装工程 • 上一篇    下一篇

斜裁服装中的省道转移方法

丁锡强   

  1. 上海商学院
  • 收稿日期:2009-10-20 修回日期:2010-05-21 出版日期:2010-11-15 发布日期:2010-11-15
  • 通讯作者: 丁锡强

Study of dart shift methods in bias cut garments

DING Xiqiang   

  1. Shanghai Business School
  • Received:2009-10-20 Revised:2010-05-21 Online:2010-11-15 Published:2010-11-15

摘要:

分析了斜裁服装中纸样(衣片)上某个省道转移到同一纸样(衣片)其他部位的方法。有选择地将文化式女上衣原型或斜裁女上衣原型纸样的前、后衣片按侧缝并排摆放,在此基础上建立斜裁框架,然后进行斜裁省道定位和省道转移,最终完成斜裁衣身转移构成。以文化式女上衣原型作为斜裁框架,主要介绍了斜裁服装中最基本的省道转移方法。在斜裁应用实例中,以斜裁女上衣原型作为斜裁框架,通过斜裁锥领花瓣袖女上衣实例分析,介绍进行斜裁省道转移以及完成纸样结构设计等方法。

Abstract:

How to transfer a bias cut dart on a paper pattern is demonstrated. This article introduces primary dart shift methods in bias cutting based on the singlet style frock prototype and bias cut prototype paper pattern frame. Practical examples are illustrated including arrangement, positioning and transferring. And how to complete the paper pattern structure design is also discussed.

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